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Yes

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Yes, you can put a toilet on it. The hardest part would be putting a toilet flange onto the cast. There are two options: you can either get a cast iron flange to fit over it and pour a lead joint or you have to chip around the pipe enough to get a no hub band on it. You also have to consider the distance from the wall. If it's 15" to the back wall you only need a minimum of 12" to finished wall. That means if you fur the wall out you could only fur it out 2.5" leaving you with 1/2" drywall. The side of your toilet needs a minimum of 15".Here is more input from others:* Go to your plumbing or hardware store. There you'll find a brass flange you can fasten to the floor with zamma pins. You will not need to chisel the floor with this method, but, you will need ensure the 4" is flush to the floor. A hammer drill is also needed to drill six 1/4" holes in the cement for the zamma pins.* In order to ensure the proper safe and sanitary conditions of your plumbing system it is recommended that you hire a licensed plumber to do this type of work. If the floor of your basement is concrete it will have to be jackhammered to expose the cast iron pipe under the floor. The pipe will have to be cut using proper tools. Cast iron pipes are hard and brittle at the same time and if they are old and corroded will often crack. A proper fitting will have to be installed and fastened with right couplings to be water tight. Plastic ABS 4" pipe is then installed vertically though the floor just above the floor level and proper distance from the wall in back of the toilet, capped and wrapped to accommodate the floor flange after the concrete is poured back. When the concrete dries the cap and wrapping are removed, the ABS pipe is cut flush with the floor and toilet floor flange is installed.* You may be able to add a toilet to the line but it must be properly vented!*Another option, and probably the easiest for a homeowner, is to buy what is called a "twist and set flange". It is basically a PVC flange with a longer base that has 2 rubber seals that actually thread into the cast iron pipe. You would insert the base of the flange into the pipe and turn it until it becomes firm, then I would suggest anchoring it to the floor with 1/4" drive pins, or some other form of anchor.

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If your home is on city supply there will be a PRV (Pressure Reducing Valve ) where the pipe comes into the house. This can be adjusted, or if more than 20 -25 years old, possibly needs to be replaced. - If you are on a well, adjust pressure at the pressure switch and if necessary pump up the tank air charge.

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The trap is in the toilet. There shouldn't be one in the drain itself.

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No—in fact, the CDC encourages avoiding all water in your house during a thunderstorm. Your plumbing and the water coming out of it can conduct electricity if lightning strikes your home, and that can lead to you getting seriously hurt. Granted, this is a pretty rare occurrence, but experts still advise against it as an easy way to avoid something potentially fatal. You should wait half an hour after hearing the last boom of thunder before hopping into the shower.

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The sound actually emanates from breaking atomic bonds, and the subsequent rearrangement of the crystalline matrix within grains. This change occurs so quickly, that the material produces a pressure wave (sound wave) that you can hear as a popping sound.

Pretty cool, huh!?

Source: B.S. in Material Science and Engineering from The Georgia Institute of Technology

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Gauge is not worth properly

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1.5 galleons average im not certain

about cubic metres

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You purchase a tap set for the laundry tub that has a built in trap priming nipple and then run 1/4" Polyethelyne tubing from that nipple to the trap in the floor drain.
Floor drain collars with trap primer nipples are available.
The tubing may be run under the poured concrete floor of the basement.
Each time the water is used in the laundry tub, a trickle of water is also sent to the trap, preventing it from drying out.

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How to rid yourself of Liquid Fire The best way to dispose of it would be to pour small amounts down the drain, wait awhile, and then flush it out with some water. Repeat this while waiting in between sessions because the water will cause the drain opener to heat up quite a bit. If you want to keep the flora in your septic tank alive it would be best to neutralize it. Liquid fire is sulfuric acid. You can first carefully mix it with a base thus creating a salt and water and then flushing down the drain. Common bases you could find around your house are baking soda (sodium bicarbonate) and ammonia water (ammonium hydroxide). The latter will actually flush fertilizer (ammonium sulfate) down your drain :)

Answer

Your local town or county should have a place where you can dispose of chemicals that you no longer want to use, such as paint, paint thinner, fertilizer and so on. This is much better than tossing it into the regular garbage or into the sewage system.

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i think the only way is to visual inspect it.

True but that is if you already know where the line runs and have a good idea where the leak is underground. However if you dont have this knowledge you will need to plot where your line runs and walk the area with a pole and look for a place that is excessively damp and probe the area with the pole not too hard or you may rupture the line worse. When you have found said leak (general area) get a shovel and start digging till you uncover the area to be fixed. Then depending on your leak shut off the main cut the pipe where leak is then solder a copper sweat sleeve 1" longer than your removed area to the pipe.

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If the pilot light is on and no hot water, then the regulator is not turning the gas flow on. The commonest cause for this is a faulty thermocouple. This is a thin copper tube that's heated by the pilot light and relays a voltage to the regulator. This can be changed by a competent handyman in about 1/2 hour. The part you need is available in many plumbing stores, best one is Honeywell Universal Thermocouple, costing $8-10. Installation is intricate and you need a good flashlight, very small wrenches and patience. The copper tube is delicate, be careful not to kink it.

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Stainless steel pipe threads are prone to leaking as well as seizing or gulling of the threads. After many years of experience and pressure testing systems up to 7700 PSI I have found this works best.

Apply UNASCO MX-68 Silver Stainless Steel Pipe Thread Sealing Tape to the threads (4-5) wraps is sufficient for smaller pipes. Generally found that covering all the threads 2 layers deep works well.

Step 2

On top of the Teflon apply a layer of SWAK thread sealing compound. Be sure to cover all around the pipe from the starting thread to the half way point of the entire length of thread.

Step 3

Tighten away

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Sprinkler main.

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I never use any pipe under 11/2"

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I usually use the thickest wax ring I can find with the plastic funnel thing embedded in it. If it's a little too thick, the extra wax will just squeeze out a bit underneath the toilet. Sometimes its necessary to double up on the ring (use two - one with the funnel one without) to make a good seal on a flange after installing a thick (tile) floor in a bathroom which I kind of assume is your issue.

If the closet collar is even with the top of the finished floor, no amount of wax will stop the water from coming out. It may not happen right away, but it sure will. One way to fix this problem is to attempt to raise the closet collar so that it will rest on top of the finished floor. Another way is to buy a closet collar extension. Either way the toilet will be held to the floor and the wax ring should then seal tight.

It depends... The advice above is good however if you have one of the newer "Super Toilets" such as the Toto Drake or Am Std Champion the outlet hole on these are enlarged and you should not use the wax rings that come with the plastic horn. The plastic horn will actually get pinched by the larger outlet and be squeezed into an oval shape that will actually cause clogs.

Another option is not to use wax seal at all. I have encountered many problems using wax seal ,it does not last long and it does not look nice. My option would be to use white, Prattley Putty standard setting. It seals water tight, goes very hard in 2 hours, easy to apply and it gives off a white, smooth very appealing finish.(Its Plumbers Cement)

*If you are attaching to a plastic Floor Flange, you would use a Kant Leak(which has the plastic hub installed with the wax seal) and use a hacksaw to cut a regular wax seal in half,still leaving it like a round donut. You put the Kant Leak on the flange, then mold the wax seal half on top of the Kant Leak. The 1/2 wax seal should be formed so when you put the toilet down it does not push into the center and down the drain. If you are putting the toilet onto a Cast Iron or Lead flange with a brass ring, DO NOT use the Kant Leak. Use one and 1/2 wax seals and do the same as I stated previously.

If the toilet flange is flush with the floor you are probably fine and would not need to use an extension kit to raise the flange. As long as your flange is in good condition and firmly secured to the floor below it you should be ok.

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The question is missing some commas. Let's correct it.

Who, many times, do you flush your toilet?

Answer: Yes, I do flush the toilet, but usually I wait till I need to use it again before doing so, cause I like to watch the flies.

Yes, many times...yep....sure do...often...

Yes, who....?

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You probably need to have the leak fixed that is most likely causing the deck to heave.

Determine why the deck heaved. Trees and ground movement can also cause decks to heave. Sometimes you can cut the deck at a control joint and it will drop back down. If it is saturated expansive soil the source of the water must be stopped. I have seen decks go back down when the soil dried out as long as no soil displacement occurred. Most of the time however you need to remove the bad part and replace it.

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If you are in a city, it is unlikely you have a septic system. Country, you probably do. Most places have a charge for sewer on the water bill. If you are on a well, you have a septic. When it is dry in the summer, the grass over the lateral field will be green longer than the rest of the yard. Look to see where the main drain leaves the house. If it is towards the street you are on a sewer, if towards the side or back yard, it is most likely a septic.

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It does not rust. It oxidizes and tarnishes. The bright red color of clean, new copper will burnish into a dull brown. Look at a penny... a pre 1982 US penny is 95% copper and 5% zinc.

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Check out the Youtube video.

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1-foot section of pipe contained 0.6528 gallons of water. 1/4 inch per foot but standard would be 1/8" per foot sewer line necessary in a house.

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