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Yes, you can put a toilet on it. The hardest part would be putting a toilet flange onto the cast. There are two options: you can either get a cast iron flange to fit over it and pour a lead joint or you have to chip around the pipe enough to get a no hub band on it. You also have to consider the distance from the wall. If it's 15" to the back wall you only need a minimum of 12" to finished wall. That means if you fur the wall out you could only fur it out 2.5" leaving you with 1/2" drywall. The side of your toilet needs a minimum of 15".Here is more input from others:* Go to your plumbing or hardware store. There you'll find a brass flange you can fasten to the floor with zamma pins. You will not need to chisel the floor with this method, but, you will need ensure the 4" is flush to the floor. A hammer drill is also needed to drill six 1/4" holes in the cement for the zamma pins.* In order to ensure the proper safe and sanitary conditions of your plumbing system it is recommended that you hire a licensed plumber to do this type of work. If the floor of your basement is concrete it will have to be jackhammered to expose the cast iron pipe under the floor. The pipe will have to be cut using proper tools. Cast iron pipes are hard and brittle at the same time and if they are old and corroded will often crack. A proper fitting will have to be installed and fastened with right couplings to be water tight. Plastic ABS 4" pipe is then installed vertically though the floor just above the floor level and proper distance from the wall in back of the toilet, capped and wrapped to accommodate the floor flange after the concrete is poured back. When the concrete dries the cap and wrapping are removed, the ABS pipe is cut flush with the floor and toilet floor flange is installed.* You may be able to add a toilet to the line but it must be properly vented!*Another option, and probably the easiest for a homeowner, is to buy what is called a "twist and set flange". It is basically a PVC flange with a longer base that has 2 rubber seals that actually thread into the cast iron pipe. You would insert the base of the flange into the pipe and turn it until it becomes firm, then I would suggest anchoring it to the floor with 1/4" drive pins, or some other form of anchor.
Any light color will work best. Lighter colors reflect more of the suns rays. On that note, you want to go with a high end exterior paint. Like Valspar® Duramax® Paint or Behr® Premium Plus Ultra®
I've used the Valspar I own a ranch west of Phoenix. The paint is great, didn't need to prime. I used two coats but it covered in one. I hope this was some help.
*Prep & wash the home before paint.Answer 2:
The best exterior paint for you will depend on the type of siding on your home as well as your location. I would go to a local paint store and ask for a recommendation.
Fans should spin counterclockwise in the summer. The counterclockwise rotation pushes cool air down, while clockwise rotation can be used at a low speed in the winter to pull cool air up and push warmer air down.
Keep in mind, though, that ceiling fans don't actually cool rooms—they just create a breeze that has a wind chill effect, making you feel cooler. So you can turn the fan off if nobody's home.
Gauge is not worth properly
Not really sure how many square, but a bundle of ridge cap normally covers 25 lineal feet. since cap dosent really cover any area ive never figured how many square it covers. hope this helps
A square is 100 square feet of covered area, but knowing how many squares there is in a bundle of ridge caps is not of much value. It is important to know how many feet of ridge can be covered with a bundle.
It depends on the type of roof. A single story low pitch asphalt shingle roof will cost around $40 - $80 per square (100 sq. ft.) to tear off and $75 - $100 per square to install new shingles. If the plywood sheathing underneath is damaged, it will cost extra, up to $50 per sheet replaced. Some contractors charge for flashing chimneys ($150 - $300) and pipes ($25). All labor performed on steep pitch roofs (7/12 and higher) will be about 10% or 15% higher. Two story housed may be 5% to 10% more. Other types of roofing have a wide range of prices. It really depends on which state you live and how steep the roof is and how many roofs already are on the house.
This would depend on what you really want. Some people use fencing that can be seen through, like wired.
I had neighbors as a kid with fence made of thick bushes!
I was shocked recently when on the Internet and looking across the street from the house that had used the bushes, to see a new cinderblock fence, two stories tall! On what had been an empty lot before!
To get fences "fun" may include praying to God about this?
Fullform of IPS Flooring is Indian pattern stone flooring.
An 1800 sf house can have four walls or 12walls if really depends on the wall area and not the over all living space. Note: you will need to calculate the total square footage of each room (ceiling and walls).
Use this formula to determine the amount of paint needed for each room: Height of the room x perimeter of the room = Square feet of the walls. Divide that number by 350 to determine the total gallons needed to paint the room a single coat. To figure the amount of paint needed to paint the ceiling, multiply the length of the room by the width of the room. Then divide that amount by 300, or if the ceiling is sculpted or highly textured, as little as 150. Do this for each room in the house to determine the total amount of paint needed for the inside of the house.
To determine the amount needed for the outside, multiply the perimeter of the house x the number of stories x 10. Divide that total by 350 for smooth walls 300 for lap siding or as low as 200 for heavy textured stucco walls. That will give you the number of gallons needed for one coat of primer or paint.
This is for a standard house paint. If you are using a high build, like elastomeric paint, check the can or data sheet for proper spread rates.
8/15/09 I ordered one from McClendon's online this spring and just ordered another. No problems with the service or quality. The price was only $3.99, but the shipping was $11.36. A bit pricey, but I could only find quantities of 12 elsewhere.
5/25/09: I found them at Anna's Linens in lots of colors and they were only 99 cents each! I have several more metal closet bars that need to be covered so I am thrilled to know where I can get them. They are not quite as thick as the one I bought at Walmart many years ago, but they work to keep my hangars from screeching across the metal!
5/25/09 - None of the places listed below carry the shower rod covers anymore, not even McLendon's (at least it's no loner available on their website). However, there is good news: Space Age Plastics, Inc. has them in 18 different colors for just $2.50 each. But, the "catch" is that you have to order a minimum of six. The nice thing is that you can mix-and-match colors. The website link is http://www.spaceageplastics.com/show_cat.php?catid=14
5/6/09 I checked all of these places listed here and the only place I found them was McLendon's Hardware...still $1.99! Thanks, I've been looking for awhile now.
6/23/08 Bought some today at McLendon's Hardware, online. $1.99 each, and reasonable shipping. They offered quick and friendly customer service. I'll add a P.S. if this order doesn't go smoothly. Otherwise, assume it was uneventful.
Recently bought one at Home Depot in their bathroom section. Also found on-line by googling "shower rod covers".
5/11/08 Update. I have looked at Lowes, Home Depot, Bed Bath & Beyond, Linens 'N Things, Walmart, Target, The Great Oudoors, Sears, True Value, Ace Hardware, Ebay and Googled "shower rod covers" All I can find is a couple sites online that require you to purchase a minimum of 12 or 24. I think its safe to say that you can't buy them retail any longer. Which is a shame!
8/30/08 Update: I just purchased a black cover at Bed Bath & Beyond for $1.49.
I was/am looking for a chrome one if anyone comes across it.
Found them for $5.00 @ http://www.usawallpaper.com/shcurod.html
GO GIT 'EM !
7/14/2010 I just called Anna's Linens in Greenville SC and they HAVE them!!!!!!!!
I just called a local hardware store for a quote. They quoted me $14-17 for windows and $17-20 for a screen door, depending on the kind of screen you choose.
Yes. But problems will arise with door clearances, stair riser heights, and other areas. With problem areas it is best to remove and replace.
Like candle wax. Perhaps this will work. Place a brown paper bag over glue, wax or similar. With a hot iron place on bag and iron. The paper bag will absorb the wax, glue etc and lift of fabric , carpet and similar. You may also use a pinch of kerosene oil for removing such stains from the woods. They are actually hydrophobic in nature and help in the removal of such paints from the wood. They also won't affect your wood shine either.
The average tube of caulk covers 30 lineal feet when applied at a quarter inch bead. Check on the tube of caulk you want to use; there should be coverage details on the tube with all the other information. Measure or guess how many feet are in need of caulking, and how much over or under a quarter inch bead your going to be, and how deep your filling; if it is over a half inch use backer rod. It takes a lot of guesswork.
Always use hot water to clean your dishes! Even if gloves are needed. Use a good dish cleaning soap. Wash both sides of items. Look for tiny crevices where germs and dirt may be clinging to. A tooth pick may help to dig wha is there, out.
Pray to God for all the help we can get.
A red door means "welcome". However, now that I'm getting into a bit of staging, I've learned that there are many meanings to a red front door:
In Feng Shui, a red door symbolizes the mouth of the home. By painting our door red (or any bright colour that stands out) chi (positive energy) is drawn to the house. It is the entry point in which abundance and opportunities find us.
The Chinese consider red to be the lucky or sacred colour. Many doors are painted with a fresh coat of red just before Chinese New Year to invite good luck and happiness. In Ireland, a red door is supposed to ward off ghosts and evil spirits.
In Catholicism, a red door represents that the blood of Christ has been smeared on it and that the area beyond the door is holy and sacred.
Also, according to the Old Testament, the Jewish slaves in Egypt smeared their doors with lambs blood as a sign that the required sacrifice had already been made, and those homes would be passed over by the Angel of Vengence.
Supposedly red doors were used as part of the Underground Railroad, and homes with red doors were "safe houses".
Albert Einstein painted his door red because he couldn't recognize his house without it.
And for homeowners, a red door announces that the house is paid for, free and clear.
Due to air quality problems, there will be AREAS with CA where it is not permitted- and some areas where you cannot get a building permit to install one.
I usually use the thickest wax ring I can find with the plastic funnel thing embedded in it. If it's a little too thick, the extra wax will just squeeze out a bit underneath the toilet. Sometimes its necessary to double up on the ring (use two - one with the funnel one without) to make a good seal on a flange after installing a thick (tile) floor in a bathroom which I kind of assume is your issue.
If the closet collar is even with the top of the finished floor, no amount of wax will stop the water from coming out. It may not happen right away, but it sure will. One way to fix this problem is to attempt to raise the closet collar so that it will rest on top of the finished floor. Another way is to buy a closet collar extension. Either way the toilet will be held to the floor and the wax ring should then seal tight.
It depends... The advice above is good however if you have one of the newer "Super Toilets" such as the Toto Drake or Am Std Champion the outlet hole on these are enlarged and you should not use the wax rings that come with the plastic horn. The plastic horn will actually get pinched by the larger outlet and be squeezed into an oval shape that will actually cause clogs.
Another option is not to use wax seal at all. I have encountered many problems using wax seal ,it does not last long and it does not look nice. My option would be to use white, Prattley Putty standard setting. It seals water tight, goes very hard in 2 hours, easy to apply and it gives off a white, smooth very appealing finish.(Its Plumbers Cement)
*If you are attaching to a plastic Floor Flange, you would use a Kant Leak(which has the plastic hub installed with the wax seal) and use a hacksaw to cut a regular wax seal in half,still leaving it like a round donut. You put the Kant Leak on the flange, then mold the wax seal half on top of the Kant Leak. The 1/2 wax seal should be formed so when you put the toilet down it does not push into the center and down the drain. If you are putting the toilet onto a Cast Iron or Lead flange with a brass ring, DO NOT use the Kant Leak. Use one and 1/2 wax seals and do the same as I stated previously.
If the toilet flange is flush with the floor you are probably fine and would not need to use an extension kit to raise the flange. As long as your flange is in good condition and firmly secured to the floor below it you should be ok.
Yes. Exposed to radiant heat it will melt, but open flames will catch the hot glue on fire.
A common placement is about shoulder height of a normal sized person. If you are going to put bath towels rather than hand towels on the bar, then you may need to go a little higher.
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