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five

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Threshold. Or a sill

Or Soleplate. DOOR SILL as opposed to the term WINDOW SILL. OR DOOR STEP. A Soleplate is more correctly, the piece of timber (usually about 50mmthick) placed in the soil and beneath a timber or concrete Stump of a house. It is typically 200 x 300mm and made from Red Gum or Jarrah so that it lasts a long time in the damp ground.

(USA answer) The bottom of a door frame is usually called the threshold or doorsill. A sole plate is the first piece of wood that lays flat on its widest face at the bottom of a stud wall. Studs (usually 2x4's or 2x6's) rest vertically on the sole plate. It may be made of pressure treated wood to prevent decay or a specie that resists decay naturally such as cedar, or cypress, or redwood. Corrected in this answer: The plate that rests on top of a foundation wall is called the sill plate (not sole plate).

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A low retaining wall outside, or inside , some use this term for a half-height room divider.

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scrape out the old thin set that held it in clean up the area where it came out and use more thin set to adhere it back into the space.

*Reads like the answer presumes this is set into the wall. If it is not, but was instead attached to the wall surface, clean off the base and use PL Premium to re-attach it to the wall. This will work even if the wall is tile, but may need some support until the adhesive dries (packing tape will suffice). If you use Tuck Tape as I once did, you will have great difficulty removing it from tile. Regardless of which way it was mounted, ensure that the reason for it falling off is not due to moisture causing the surface to deteriorate.

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Check Ebay, there is an advertisement showiing it was built around 1952.

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16 12" x 12" tiles

*This presumes the given room size is exact and there are no cuts required. If there are cuts required for a toilet flange for example, best to allow for breakage. A general rule of thumb is to allow 10 - 15% waste for straightforward installs.

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About 80 lbs.

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You will need airvents so the unit will not overheat. But if you put small computer fans that work with the vents you should avoid most condensation issues.

You could also just go out and by a Sunbrite or other outdoor tv.

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it is classified in three different sections; 1) hard woods, types of woods that shed their leaves in winter 2) softwoods, trees that are coniferous (do not shed their leaves in winter) 3) man made woods, woods of the softwood and hardwood family all tightly compacted into a big sheet.

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Molasses.

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By angling it 45 degrees and using the empty area where you sit to go around the door jamb.

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A diamond core drill, slow and easy, with plenty of water.

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strong lightweight wood is wood with small fibers, such as balsa

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shade is great and so is the natural look of a tree overlooking your front porch but the large trees have large roots that can and will grow under the house and do tend to manipulate the ground and its surroundings. This is a tickly subject. you need to really think about your love for trees and whether or not you want them close to your heart or close to your house.

Micron: a typical hardwood tree's root system extends beyond its canopy. If the tree canopy can grow to spread out 30 feet in one direction, the root system will likely grow beyond that (thus be more than 60 feet in diameter). Roots will go even further if there is water nearby and will penetrate sewer lines and weeping tile to find water. So how close depends on factors such as ground water conditions and whether or not you will have a septic bed. An arborist could aid you in determining how close you should come, because you could disturb the tree's living space and cause it to die, which would kind of negate your reason for locating the building there in the first place.

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Yes, most with windows apparently.

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Clay minerals, calcite, and silica.

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A bolt for a girder is a bolt that is cast in place with the cap. Therefore the bolt is concreted into the cap of the substructure of the bridge. The girder is then set on top of bearing pads, on top of the cap, in between the girder bolts. The bolts are there to keep the ends of the girders from moving side to side.

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There is a product called "back-set" that might do the trick, its based on a compound from sugar cane, it returns the cement to the gel state, then you just wash it off, but you would need an equal volume of the stuff to you volume of concrete, at about 25 bucks a gallon.

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Considering only safety, there is not much hazard. There may be electrical wires inside the wall, so keep that in mind. You would not want to cut into a wire with your nail.

A better question is if it's a good idea, and that depends on what you are trying to do. If you want to put in a very small nail to hang something lightweight, like a small picture, you can do that. Drywall is not very strong, but it can carry a little weight. If you want to hold something heavier, you will need to find a stud (the vertical wooden boards that form the structure of the house). A nail put through the drywall into the stud will be able to carry considerable weight. Since you may someday wish to remove this nail, I would suggest you use an appropriate screw instead.

Keep the nail or fastener to a reasonable length (appx. 1" more than the drywall thickness )and you should be OK. You could also get an inexpensive electronic stud finder with electrical wiring sensor if so inclined.

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One square covers 100 square feet, so to cover 1900 square feet of roof you would need 19 squares. However, you also need "starter shingles" and "hip and ridge" shingles, plus you need to have a few extras because of waste from cutting angles.

Starter shingles go around the perimeter of the roof as a bottom layer for the first course of shingles. Hip and ridge shingles go, as you might expect, on the hips and ridges. In order to know for sure the exact quantity you would need for the entire roofing job you have to measure all of these areas.

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First, make sure it is unplugged.

There should be a small black button at the the back of the saw blade housing, usually on the left hand side as you are facing the saw. It presses into the bracket that holds the hinge assembly.

Relieve some of the lateral pressure on the button by leaning lightly on the top of the saw blade housing and push the button in. It will reflex back out to your finger, so let it.

Be careful that the spring-tension in the hinge assembly does not cause the saw blade housing to smack you in the face, because it just might.

Happy cutting!

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i suppose, but it would make some pretty nasty paint. If your trying to make a color coat for stucco or something, a dry colorant available at a masonry supply store would be a much better option. What exactly are you trying to accomplish? might be able to provide a better answer

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First, make sure that the cause of the moisture has been corrected. Assuming the floor buckled due to moisture, first make sure that everything is thoroughly dry. The buckled boards will have to be removed, nails pulled and the boards replaced, as long as they haven't warped and are still straight. If the boards are not reuseable then new boards will have to be used. If the floor is still swelled, the last board to be installed may have to be cut down ("ripped") on a table saw in order to fit back in. If the flooring is tongue-and-groove, cut the bottom of the board off of the "groove" side leaving the top (or face) side uncut. Re-install the final board, face-nail it and fill the nail holes.