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Lightning Activator 6854 is designed for use in Transtar's Finish-Tec Clearcoats to provide a long lasting high gloss finish. Ideal for spot & panel repairs and for use in cool/cold temperatures. It significantly accelerates flash and cure times. This product provides low overspray.

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To break in your new car, it is suggested to not subject the engine to constant speeds. Better piston ring seating will be achieved by varying the speed and avoiding hard and sudden accelerations at least during the first 500 miles. Gradual accelerations with some decelerations are the most beneficial for ring seating.

I would suggest going to the extra expense and effort to change the engine oil at 500 miles, even when the car manufacturer allows many more miles before the first oil change; most of the metallic residue produced by the initial ring and bearings break in is produced and released in the first hours of engine operation. Using an oil flush to completely remove this residue is the best practice, but avoid products intended for sludge and varnish removal, because there is no need for them at this new engine condition, and some contain extreme pressure additives that will not allow a proper break in. You can use a thinner, less viscous engine oil for several minutes of running the engine with the car stopped, and then flush it out; then, add the proper viscosity oil as specified in your owner's manual.

After this first oil change and flush, for the next one, go by your manual recommendations or slightly sooner if you wish to keep your car for a long time and in top condition. Recycle your used motor oil properly. Synthetic oils can be used AFTER proper ring seating, but there is little economic benefit in using them unless your car has a Turbocharged, Supercharged, or High Performance engine. (In dusty locations, it is better to change the oil more frequently than to use a premium synthetic that will be contaminated in the long intervals between changes.)

Some cars need no break-in period at all, and some do. Your owners manual will list the break-in specs. However, if there is a break-in period, remember that piston rings don't rely on their spring tension to seal against the cylinder bores. Instead, combustion gases work their way between the rings and the piston and force the rings outward. During the first few minutes of engine operation, it's important that the throttle be opened pretty far at lower RPMs to provide this high pressure. Otherwise, the rings won't burnish the cylinder walls properly, and the engine will have high volumes of blow-by, which means excessive oil consumption and shortened engine life. If you've ever seen the car jockeys who drive new cars off the end of the production line into the storage lot or the transporter drivers zipping up and down the car-hauler ramps, you'll realize that this all-important step has been performed for you many times. If you're installing a new engine, simply give it a few seconds of wide-open throttle in a high gear. For the first thousand miles, avoid constant speeds and throttle settings. If you commute in normal stop-and-go traffic, you'll be fine. I advise against cruise-controlled sojourns across Nebraska.

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First I would call them very "Talented" and they are usually called "auto/truck detailer.

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what kind of paint?? How long has the original paint been on there?

Many times, the "vehicle" (solvent) in the polyurethane will cause the existing paint to curdle or wrinkle if it is a water based/latex paint. If it has been on there a long time though, you might be able to get away with it.

See if you can test a small spot that is not exposed or visible first. Even if it "tests" OK, it still might have a tendency to pull the existing paint up when you get it on a large area, so be careful

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You can paint a lot of things. It depends on what you are painting. If you are painting metal then use metal paint if you are painting wood then use wood paint if you are painting something flexible such as rubber, thin plastic, or fabric then use vinyl paint. Some objects require primer which you put on before you put on paint to make the paint stick. Most wood objects require paint to be rolled on such as a house or any another large wooden object. Smaller wooden objects would be easier to spray paint such as a wooden chair. All metal objects and some wooden objects need to be painted with a professional paint sprayer that hooks up to an air compressor. All metal objects have to be spray painted. And all objects need to be sanded before painting to make the paint stick.

Good Luck :)

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it all depends on where your from, what color and if there going to blend the hood into the fenders.

typical painters hourly rates are around 48 dollars an hour, so it could be around 300-400

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I am not sure what the actual person would be called but I would assume a body shop is who you would need to call to have this done. Some body shops are better than others and some deal with mostly collision work. I would start calling around and asking you may want to find a body shop that deal is restoration. It may be more costly but a reputable shop that does restorations may be you best bet. Good Luck!!

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The person who applies decals and vinyl to cars is called an installer. They work either in sign shops or vehicle wrap shops - both decals and vinyl are considered signage. The person who applies custom paint jobs is either a painter (if he works in a shop large enough to have separate paint and body-repair departments) or a body repair technician.

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no, it's a waste of money

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If you are referring to the "rock guard" that is sprayed generally on lower parts of side body panels, the answer will depend on the manufacturer/make/model, etc. Most pickups wont have it on the bottom of doors but there are a few imports that do. If you do alot of off-roading, it would be wise to apply rock guard on the bottom of the doors as well, but it is entirely up to you. Hope it helps.

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Some do. The paint on the lower panel has a sort of blurry look to it.

Find out what car dealers don't want you to know at dealertricks

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Rubber is a generic term today. It used to mean a very specific substance.

Today you could call various forms of urethane rubber.

Is it technically ? NO

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Fact: Carnauba wax and Turpentine, some companies also add a polyformer to help fill scratches.

Carnauba wax comes from a tree, which is then processed. Not all companies use solvents like Turpentine either. One company is Zymol, they use all natural ingredients.

The question here is actually two questions in one.

Wax - is a protective layer that you apply to protect your paint.

Polish - is a cleaning "compound" that helps to remove impurities from the paint to prepare it for waxing/sealing.

They are both very different and should not be confused. Although in the retail industry they have mixed them up greatly in their advertising as having a wax that polishes too. Remembering what I explained earlier helps you to realize that you can't have both at the same time as they both do two separate jobs.

Go here for a better explanation: http://www.automagic.biz/Training/polishing.htm

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yes you can, it has a rough texture in the tiles though and you may not want to do it as it comes of easily.

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It would probably be something I would call a warm beige.

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Well depends where. and also what quality you want your paint to be. Some garages in Europe ask you to pay 500-7000 euros. This however also matters on the size of the car and if you want to paint it fully or just some parts.

In US you can get your car painted for cheaper. Some of the other answers on other websites said that it can 350 $, but as i said before its the quality, size and the amount that matters.

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Car wax ingredeants

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Yes.

The type of substrate (bare wood, unfinished drywall, concrete, metal), the condition of the substrate (stains, damage, previous layers of paint), and how the area will be used (requires repeated cleaning and/or exposed to frequent direct sunlight, water or humidity) all factor in to which paints and primers will do the best job. In general, you would want to use regular paint over the primer since it may do a better job of protecting the surface you are painting - particularly outside or in damp conditions.

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Remove all foreign material, i.e., rust, paint, etc. Apply bondo to clean, rough metal only.

Make sure metal is roughened to ensure adhesion of bondo to metal.

Begin shaping, sanding, just after bondo is set up, don't leave too long, will be difficult to sand.

Apply more bondo, to the sanded bondo, if needed, sand again - apply primer just prior to touch out glaze.

1. Use only fresh Bondo, not some that was opned last year. 2. Don't mix a large amount at one time. It will harden before you have a chance to apply. 3. Make sure your Bondo and hardener are well mixed. 4. Once you are shaped and sanded, get primer on it right away. Bondo and other fillers hold water. 5. Don't leave primer on too long without painting, it holds water as well. 6. When you're are shaping and sanding, WEAR A MASK. The dust can ruin your lungs.

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Yes, that was the original intention of urethane.

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I recommend first trying to buff it out with a power buffer, but if that doesn't work there is another option. There is a paint cleaner made by the same company that makes "Goo Gone" it is called "Goof Off" (Seriously)(Sold in any major hardware store) It is a paint STRIPPER, so be very careful not to spill any where you do not intend to. What you will want to do is find the softest, cleanest rag you can find, and apply SMALL amounts of "Goof Off" to the rag, and buff the undesired paint out with small circles. Be cautioned tho because too much "Goof Off" and over-zealous buffing WILL take the factory paint right off of your car. In between your factory paint and your "Pole Paint" there are several layers of Clear coat finish applied to your paint job, this is what gives the paint it's glossy finish...you can usually get away with removing a layer or two of the clear coat without too much noticeability, but even then you can mask any small problem areas with buffing wax. I hope this helps you out, I have had three cars spray painted in my driveway by little punks in my neighborhood, (not all of them owned by me) and used "Goof Off" to remove it and it worked fine. Just take your time...patience is the key, and don't use too much or you may be even more upset with the end results.

What worked best for me was a "Mr Clean" sponge and a lot of elbow grease. I successfully removed a very large area (approximately 2 ft x 1 ft) of red paint from my white vehicle using nothing more than the two ingredients listed above. I backed into one of the large red posts seen in front of many Target stores, no dents thankfully, but plenty of red paint was taken home. The "Mr Clean" sponge took it right off, leaving the paint underneath only slightly more dull than the unaffected areas surrounding it. That can easily be remedied with a good wash and wax. Hope this helps...

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I am guessing this is on the floor. This is probably a two component carbon bond coating. This means it is chemical resistant to even ketones. To recoat, you must use another epoxy or urethane mixture. To prepare the surface, it must be wet sanded with at least 220 grit water paper. After a good sanding, the surface must be cleaned with some sorta tack cloth. If you use a waxed based tack, do not press hard. This will cause transfere of the bees wax to the surface and cause poor adhesion. Anyway, get the surface clean as possible. Make sure the humidity is below 50% before coating the area. If you try to coat with humidity aboue 50%, you may get bubbles in your coating. They are caused by the coating trying to cure quicker than the moisture can escape. I hope you can use this information.