Swith the Ignition Off
Hold Miloemeter Trip Reset In (keep held in)
Turn on Ignition
Still Hold Trip Reset for approx 12 seconds, the InSP should change.
Release trip reset.
Switch off ignition
Switch on ignition and check.
P1113 Port Deactivation Position Sensor Circuit High Voltage . (as per TIS) there are 2 possible codes one for hi volts and one for lo volts, check all your wiring and the connector on the B1_Y21B Sensor - Twinport Position
Wiring harness connector (underneath the inlet manifold)
P1113 code Vauxhall, I have this as the Port Deactivation Position Sensor.
This is a 3 pin sensor mounted to the inlet manifold twinport rail so the ECU can determine the flaps position.
The sensor is tucked up under the manifold and is a little tricky to get to.
It is also essentially the same sensor as the TPS used in older pre-electronic throttle control Vauxhalls such as single point injection Astra-F and Corsa-B models.
Not had one fail yet, but of course it could be at fault.
I have seen the wiring for it chafed through on the actuating rail from poor LPG installations, including the standard Vauxhall conversion! If fitted.
I would also be checking for seized/worn flaps or rail disconnection.
Incidentally, the lower inlet manifold section (incorporating flaps) comes with a pre-installed sensor.
The sensor is mounted at the opposite end of the manifold to the actuating solenoid but it is not clearly marked.
When ordering don't be surprised that it is a complete manifold that they offer you, complete with everything. Not sure of price but I think it's around £80.00.
It is a complex work requiring special tools. You need to unplug air box, remove the belt, open the cover there few nuts to be opened, which can be easily accesssed by removing the front-right wheel. Again it is very difficult. so take to specialists.
As long as the engine is the same size, manual or auto transmissions should bolt up properly. If the vehicle has different engine options, make sure they are the same engines or else they will not bolt up.
That's the simple and basic answer... Going from one to the other isn't simple plug and play. Manual transmissions are simple, require gear oil, no cooling for the oil, no independent ecu, and usually different length of a drive shaft or CV axles (rear or front wheel drive). An automatic require automatic tranny oil specific to the make's requirements, hooks up to the radiator to cool the oil, and an independent ecu. Wiring is also different along the engine's wiring harness. Also, The alternator's wiring harness maybe affected. Relays maybe required aswell.
Can a manual and auto tranny be changed/switched? Yes
Is it practical? Absolutely not! There is alot to it that just a bolt on. Auto to Manual is easier, but you will need hydrolic lines for the clutch.
it is derived from sanskrit prakasa which means light
Having just completed this exercise on a 2.5 V6 97 Vectra I would like to add the following tips. The bulbs are little devils to get hold off due to the lack of space and light inside the bonnet. So when dealing with the main beam pull out the side bulb and turn on the side lights. This will give you some light in the tight space. Before you undo the spring clip, attach a piece of fairly rigid plastic tubing (about 6 inches long) to the bulbs terminal. Make sure that the tubing is a firm fit, then undo the clip and withdraw the bulb using the plastic tube. This should insure that you don't drop the bulb into the headlamp cover or the car's floor pan like I did. Also notice which way around the bulb is located i.e.: the bulb flange is "D" shaped and can only be fitted one way round. Use the plastic tube to grip the terminal of the new bulb and guide it into the bulb's headlamp slot. Make sure that the flange is located correctly with your fingers, and then apply firm pressure to the tube to hold the bulb in place and relocate the spring clip one side at a time. The covers on the back of my headlights were just made of rubber and just pulled off rather than screwed. The job is awkward and more touchy feely than seeing what you are doing, but it two bulbs can be changed in under an hour
This varies slightly depending on what side you are changing. i.e off side or near side.
If changing near side( side where battery is located) you firstly have to remove the fuse box which is fastened onto the battery carriage by sliding it upwards. This will give you easier access.
Next remove the plastic cover that is covering the back of the headlamp by turning it anti clockwise. You should now see the back of the headlamp which has a two pin plug connector attached to it which simply pulls off.
To remove the bulb itself you will have to remove a small spring clip which holds it by pushing it towards the front of the vehicle and then push it to your right this should then fall away and let you remove the bulb.
When fitting the new bulb it is just the reversal of the above only it can be a little tricky trying to lock the spring clip back into place. A small mirror would help if you have one.
Also take care not to touch the glass on the new bulb as this will damage it.
Or just take the car to your Local dealer. A good Vauxhall dealer will replace them only charging for the bulb, just like I do.
You need to check a few things first: - 1) do you have a front fog light switch. If not you are on a non starter till you get one 2) Is there a space in the fuse box for a relay beside the rear fog light relay 3) If 1) and 2) are sorted then put a relay in the spare slot (you can use the rear relay as a temp) and switch the main lights on. Then press the front fog light switch. If you hear a click then you are half way there, if not give up the idea of integrated lights. 4) If you get the click and your model did not have foglights as standard then you will probably find that there is no wiring between the relay and the front air dam. Nice of them really. 5) although the mounts for front fog lights should be there any plugs at the foglight end seems to be a bit of a hit and miss affair. Hope this is of some use. Peteroadie
Think these are the same as on the astra.You need to be a bit gentle to avoid breaking the clips.Push the whole lamp(try towards the rear first)until the small "barb"clip clears the slot and allows the lamp to swing out at one end.Then the lamp will come free.Just pull out the bulbholder and replace the bulb.Its a 501 capless type.Then simply clip the lamp back in,large clip first.
I just changed one on a 98 Maxima. Jack up the right side so the tire is about 2 inches off the ground and put a stand under the frame rail. Take off the plastic splash shield off behind the tire. You have to loosen 3 bolts. The one that is the most pain is behing the power steering pump. You need to lay on your back way under the middle of the engine and use a 3/8 drive ratchet with an extention about 2 feet long and a swivel. I think it was a 14 mil. With a light you can see the 1 bolt on the back side of the power steering pump. Just loosen it a little. The other bolt is reached also from underneith behind the tire, I think it's a 12 mil. Then there is one on the bottom, that loosens and lets the power steering pump swing down and the big belt comes off. The little belt comes off by loosening the bolt in the middle of the tensioner pully and then from up top you either tighten or loosen the bolt to move the tensioner. It's really not a bad job.
you will usually find the temp sensor tucked up behind the front spoiler out of the airflow about the size of a match box, it just clips on and has a two wire terminal clip going to it robb
There are several posts already in this forum which may help you.If this is not the case,you should post again with more details,particularly the X*** number for your engine and the year.CDI is really an equipment level indicator.The operation varies,depending on age and whether 8V or 16V,I can't tell from the info provided.Sorry.
If it's a diesel (which Cdi suggests it is), it's quite likely it is cam-chain, and hence will not need to be changed on a regular/scheduled basis.
Black sticker in the drivers door jam near rear passenger door also has colour code
pull out the fins of the air vents and the screws are hidden behind. from there the dash should just pull out but be careful as it is very tight and i scratched hell out surrounds removing the clocks
Also you need to lower the steering wheel as low as possible, as to screws to the console are at the rear of the column
Same as all other cars, it senses crankshaft angle so that the engine control module can apply spark to the fuel at a precise time to achieve full combustion with minimal emissions. there's usually also a camshaft sensor, and many vehicles will use the camshaft sensor if the crankshaft sensor fails to provide limited functionality (limp home mode). If its dead, you'll have to replace it for the engine to operate properly. I don't know if your vehicle has any mileage limits on limp-home mode.
vectra b 2.0 dtl / dth, and the same for 2.2 do not require a timing belt change as they are chain driven , however the tensioner requires checking after 150,000
The oil can usually means needs oil and the spanner means time for a service
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take 15 mm wrench and pull the belt tensioner toward the left it will loose the belt.TO install start to put the belt on from the crank and make ou way up.
guess it is the engine management light , has a box shaped like an engine on it, it means the computer has found something faulty in the engine , often it is the camshaft sensor that's broken , they don't last very long i think, can be crank sensor too, or airflow sensors. and other things.
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i took my windscreen washer pump off and cleaned it and cleaned tubes attached,put pump back on resorvoir but water still not coming out properly from front washer nozzles,any answers
My advise is that you buy the haynes manual. This will take you step by step. The question itself is simple enough. For the pads: Remove wheel Pull retaing pin on caliper. Unscrew cover for caliper. Compress piston with pads in. (this makes it easier to fit new pads). Tap out retaining pins if the pad has them (goes through the holes at top of pads). use a centre punch to do this. Pull out pads or pry if they seem stuck. Do not put pressure on the disk. best use a screw driver for this. Scrape off excess dust from around the caliper. Then put new pads in. Tap retaining pins back through pad retaining holes. put caliper cover back on. put sprung clip back on(the first retainer i mentioned). Wheel back on then pump brakes. DO NOT drive anywhere until you have pumped the brake pedal.
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