Purge slowly into a pail or bucket in the telemotor hydraulic system purging valve until such a time pure hydraulic oil are coming out from the purging valve.
Use a Turkey baster to remove all the fluid in the reservoir then use a rag to clean the reservoir of anything that remains. Now refill the reservoir with clean brake fluid.
I would also recommend that the brake system be bleed to remove the old brake fluid. As it is a recommended the Fluid should be replaced as a preventive maintenance service, and may need replacement every two years or 24,000 miles.
There is a tool available at auto parts store to help you D.I.Y this or you can take it to someone and have it done.
As per the Formula 1 website 2012/08/04: " Power steering systems are allowed, but these must not be electronically controlled or powered. Four-wheel steering is forbidden. The car's steering wheel, steering column and steering rack all have to pass an FIA impact test."
just get a manual. you can get them at most all parts places. they cost about 15-20 dollars depending on where you live. this is one of the best investments you can make. it'll pay for it's self in one repair! it will literally show you everything you need to know about your vehicle from the ground up! good luck!
They had power steering. The boxes are the same. What's different is what hole the tie rod ends are installed in on the arms bolted to the spindle assembly.
I just wanted to add another two cents about the topic of bleeding or burping the power steering system:
1. Know what type of power steering fluid is needed for your car. Some power steering pumps can use automatic transmission fluid, others have specific power steering fluid for each car, i.e. Honda requires and suggests that you use Honda's brand of power steering fluid (see owner's manual). Make sure you know, or the warranty from the dealership or from the parts store may be voided.
2. Before attaching the power steering belt, fill pump with required amount and type of fluid (see owner's manual), and then turn the pulley wheel by hand a few times. This helps cut down on dry turns before they can happen. If more power steering fluid is needed, fill accordingly.
3. Attach the power steering belt with proper amount of tension (see owner's manual).
4. Turn vehicle on and proceed to turn the steering wheel all the way right and left 3-4 times.
5. Turn the vehicle off, and examine that the belt tension is acceptable, and again check the level of fluid and fill accordingly.
6. Always, always check your owner's manual before performing any maintenance on your vehicle. An educated car owner is a safe car owner!Another possibilityHow long has the pump run without fluid? There could be damage inside to the cam and rotor (assuming it's a vane type pump), or to the plates, or it could be cavitating due to the ingress of air -- possibly why the fluid leaked out in the first place.
I too experienced very loud whining noise from my 93 Ranger 3.0's power steering pump at idle, and even louder when turning the steering wheel even a little bit in either direction. I changed the fluid but there was no change in noise. I read in a Ranger forum that if you add some STP oil treatment (yes, STP OIL TREATMENT), not the whole can, it would help. I decided to give it a try and sure enough it has reduced the noise greatly. It didn't completely eliminate it but people no longer stare at my vehicle at red lights because of the noisy pump. That was embarrassing! Ford's pump must be partly to blame since the problem is so rampant among all their various models.
By the way, Mercury is supposed to begin being phased out (discontinued) beginning in 2010 and completely gone by 2012. Only Ford and Lincoln will remain. Just thought ya'll might want to know that since your Mercury's value will likely plummet as that kill-off nears. However, those of you who have a stiffy for Mercs may get a good deal on one before they are gone. I personally don't think they are "all that". Fords in general are pretty low market in build and longevity. I used to favor GM but switched to Honda products in the 90s, they are very long-lived. My latest is a Jaguar and I'm quite happy with it. Yes I know they were owned by Ford and now by Tata Motors but the design is all Jag.
hmm.... Plymouth used a sail boat, Mercedes used an airplane prop, so did BMW.. Toyota celica used a dragon that looked a bit like a swan... can you be a little more specific and narrow it down by century or decade??
Disconnect negative battery cable, remove coolant overflow tank, unbolt alternator and place it forward of the front valve cover,there are two studs with nuts and one bolt holding the steering pump to the engine.In order to get to the bolt you must first unbolt and remove the serpentine belt tensioner because the bolt is behind and under it. Suggest the idler pully be removed for better access to everything. Once the idler and tensioner are removed, the PS pump PULLEY must be removed or broken off (its made of plastic) OR remove the two nuts from the studs and remove the bolt that was hidden by the tensioner. Slide the pump assembly forward so that you can access the studs with vice grips and remove them this way OR take two nuts that are the correct size for the studs,tighten them against each other and rotate the inner nut counterclockwise til the stud is out....the fun part is trying to get an open end wrench in there....I recommend vice grip from above. The studs have to come out if you desire to remove the pump intact with the pulley attached, otherwise it will not have any clearance to come out. A new pulley costs $9.95 at advance auto, power steering pump about $45 same place. Plastic pulley must be pressed on and cannot be done with the bolt, washer and nut supplied with the pulley unless you lube the Hell out of the pulley, break a coupleof pulleys because the instructions are Crap. Take the works to an auto machine shop and let them press it on. Best way to get the pulley off the old pump is by breaking the thing off with a hammer so you have it free of the mount and with you for exchange (core charge is $35). The tool recommeded for removing the old pulley is a hair puller and all you will do is strip the threads in the pulley without budging the plastic piece of junk.Good luck, it took me two pulleys and lots of cussing to learn what I have written here. PS, don't forget to change the $18 power steering pump filter(FOR REAL)on the drivers side clipped to the frame.
a good book is haynes auto repair for a mercury
first you remove the pulley with a pulley removel tool you should be able to rent one from parts store.then remove lines,then pump
I am replacing mine today..the pump itself will come with all the information you need except the fact that you need a special puller to remove the power steering pully. I tryed the conventional three prong puller and found the 4" is to big to get in there to grab thre front of the pully due to the low placement and the body and air conditioner lines in the way..I am on my way back to the auto parts store to see if I can purchase the right puller..back later with price and availability and how it worked out...good luck terry
Check out this link:
you need to purchase a puller set.
I found some instructions in a "Haynes Repair Manual" for the Taurus and Sable. The manuals are available at auto parts stores and in many public libraries.
I did not need to buy the puller set. The Auto Zone in my neighborhood offers free tool rental, and they had the puller set that I needed. They asked for a deposit when I picked up the tools, and refunded the full deposit when I returned the tools.
same in my town, as the one above, about the renting of tools. auto zone , I've noticed , is the best place and one you can trust more than most stores, for tool rentals. do NOT , however, do it *redneck style* like my husband does, because we never have the $50 plus for the rental in between pay periods, by hammering it off. it is BAD!when i found out how he always got them off wihtout a *pulley puller* set, i asked him how he did it without messing it up. he responded, "VERY CAREFULLY!" my mother-in-laws b/f was not so careful, and it eventually costed 300 dollars in parts alone and 6 months worth of frustration fixing the botched job, just so we could replace the water pump because someone welded the pulley onto the pump to make it stay on, which is NOT by ANY means, exceptable on ANY car. it causes far more problems than the imediate fix. If not taken off properly, you can not put it back on and have it stay there. it will fly off and shred your belt. my sister went through 3 belts before i found out what they did and theyre 25 a peice.
you need a special tool. puller / installer. rent it at Auto Zone for +/- $35
Go to a automotive supply store and ask for a Haines auto repair manual for your make year and model of car. It will show you, step by step how to do any repair to that particular car, with photos and a complete description of how to take it apart and put it back together again.
The best few dollars that you will ever spend.
you need a power steering pump pulley puller and installer kit. go to your local parts store. theyll have one.
M2C41A is the Original Equipment Manufacturers Specifications for the type of oil to go into the system. M2C41A is not engine oil; it is a type of hydraulic oil. You do not need to use Ford M2C41A, you just have to find an alternative oil that meets Ford's Specifications. You should be fine using a Universal Tractor Fluid that meets SAE 10-W30 classification, just make sure it meets OEM M2C41A Specifications . DO NOT USE ENGINE OIL it is not the same.
Yeah. The serpentine belt which also controls the fan and water pump
I believe it's located underneath the steering wheel. If you take off the panel just behind the steering wheel (pull hard, but be careful of the wire connected to the trunk release button inside the coin box) you should be able to see it easily. It's a black box, about 4" x 4" or so that says "Koyo" on it and you can see a little piece of a computer chip popping out the top righthand side. Hope this helps!
I believe it's located underneath the steering wheel. If you take off the panel just behind the steering wheel (pull hard, but be careful of the wire connected to the trunk release button inside the coin box) you should be able to see it easily. It's a black box, about 4" x 4" or so that says "Koyo" on it and you can see a little piece of a computer chip popping out the top righthand side.
Its easy just use your hands to turn the wheel. Surpise it works. ha ha ha
its called arm-strong steering for a reason. so grow some are muscles
dirty fuel filter, needs oil change.Answerloss of compresson ie. worn rings, leaking head gasket, burnt valves
incorrectly adjusted linkage to foot pedal to maifold
bad fuel pump, dirty fuel or air filter, dirty injectors, clogged exhaust or worn turbo,bad or dirty EGR valve or cat convertor on models so equippedAnswerFirst and foremost, air filter. I have a diesel truck that experienced the same problem. You might see excessive smoke as well when this is happening. Change your air filter. You should be changing it at least once a year anyways and maybe even more if your dealing with dry desert like conditions. AnswerI once had a diesel rabbit that was killed by a sucession of bad mechanics including a dealership and so called radiator specialists. Loss of power came on along with overheat on drives over fifteen minutes. It turned out that half of the radiator was blocked. The slow death came on because the raditor was half working. Whne my engine was changed at a junk yard, the juhnk yard mechanic discovered the problem that killed my original engine and was never properly diagnosed by the dealership and the so called radiator can colling specialists. This may not be your answer, I hope it is for someone drawn to your inquiry. answer2 things will stop a diesel DIRTY fuel and a DIRTY aircleaner but if weather is extremely cold, diesel will gell (freeze) and engine will lack power until diesel warms up Answerperhaps your turbo has blown if it is a TD TDi or CDTI etc..
it will start leaking
That means the engine is running hot for some reason are another.
Yes. Power steering became an option in e21 models, and standard thereafter.
The 1996 Ford Contour owners manual shows : Use only power steering fluid that meets Ford specification ESW - M2C33 - F or is an equivalent type F automatic transmission fluid with a Ford registration number ( an 8 digit number beginning with " 2P " printed on the fluid container )
Esso ATF D or Total Fluide AT42
yes it does, as every other fluid does to. it does lose it's optimum lubrication and cleaning agents which can cause power steering pump and rack premature failure. it should be changed as regularly as every 30-40,000km
Your power steering has a lot to do with the way your car handles. A sudden change in steering could be any/all of the following: low fluid, a broken belt (there is a belt that connects the engine's main drive pulley to the power steering, alternator, air conditioning, etc. pulleys) or the power steering pump went bad. Before you take your car to the shop, check the fluid and the belts to make sure they are OK. Note that loose belts are the same as broken belts. The belt MUST have the correct tension in it for it to work properly. In virtually all modern cars, belt tension is set with a spring loaded pulley that should always maintain the correct tension. You should check out the belt tensioner too. If all these check out properly, then the power steering pump is the next most likely culprit. Finally, the power steering rack - the thing that couples the hydraulic pressure from the power-steering pump into the steering mechanism - may need replacement or rebuilding.
assuming your vehicle is equipped with powersteering, yes. to find out for sure you will need to open your hood and look in engine compartment. there should be, in the upper left corner of the engine, a small black cap that says... Power Steering on it. it will be sitting ontop of a white colored fluid container. This would be your power steering pump. Twist the black cap and pull upwards. the cap will have a stick fastened to the bottom of it with a fluid level indicator mark. be sure the fluid is up to that mark, or very close to it. if not, you may need to purchase some power steering fluid.
Simply withdraw only the fluid that's readily accessible in its small reservoir, and replace that portion with fresh fluid. You'll be doing this several times over a week or so until the fluid color looks normal. To use this technique, you first have to acquire the proper tool. It's sold as a "fluid removal/transfer tool" or battery filler, and resembles a turkey baster (but that's made of different materials, so don't use one of those from your kitchen). You'll also need to purchase the proper type and amount of power steering fluid and refill to the proper level, start your engine then cycle the steering left then right and recheck level.
Unless you have contaminated fluid (or several 100K miles), you should not need to change it. How to answer:
The following procedure will work in most cases (no vehicle specifics given)
If you're asking how to do it you should give vehicle specifics, year, make model & engine size. On most vehicles the best way is to drain the reservoir if you can then disconnect the return line at the reservoir. Get a few feet of hose the same size as the return line and use a hose connector or vacum line connector and connect the length of hose to the return line. Put the end of the hose in a large (1 Gal.) container. Make sure the line connector won't come apart as you will have a flood of oil everywhere if it does. Open the lid on the reservoir and fill it up with new clean p/s fluid and start the car. Keep filling the reservoir as the pump pushes it out into the container. When clean fluid comes out into your dirty fluid container have someone turn the wheel left to right slowly a few times while you keep adding fluid. Try not to let the pump run dry as you can damage or shorten the life of the pump. Once you're satisfied with the fluid color then you're done. Reconnect the return line and put the lid back on with the correct fluid level in reservoir and turn the wheel fully from side to side a few times to make sure the air is bled out. This flush may take 2 -3 qts depending on contaminants in the system and capacity of system. Get rid of the old oil properly (most garages & automotive suppliers will take it). If in doubt get a professional repair person to do it for you (it's not that expensive). You may want to add a power steering fluid conditioner (eg: Lucas) when you're done.
Your post particularily interests me.
First some general info: Throttle plate cleaning and air induction service seems to be needed about every 18,000 miles, in my experience.
You can check your power steering fluid yourself and decide. Pull the dipstick out and wipe it on something white. If it's clear, you're okay, if it's discolored (brownish usually but translucent), then get it flushed.
I am really curious to know about the EVAP Flush. I have never heard of it. Maybe there is something new that I'm not familiar with, but would be surprised as we are usually close to the cutting edge. Plese get more info about this, as I am at a loss.
The only one I can think of right off hand would be FORD. I dont think Dodge ever used a spring either but i`m not really sure about that. Ray
This is when you test the shop's trust and credibility that you took your car to.
Take it back and explain the problem as to how the symptoms changed. I would expect that they should try to immediately or asap get you car in and look over their work. Don't address them in a negative or hostile way, they should want to resolve this without stress on your or their parts.
Keep this in mind, these particular cars are more apt to squeak than many, but with enough attention the shop should be able to fix it.
There is a TSB on these brakes, it is #98-5A-19. this may help the shop if they have no answers.AnswerThe squeeling is most likely a belt slipping. You can probably find a belt dressing at an auto parts store to spray on it. If the squeeling stops after spraying, replace or tighten the belt. Another cause may be that your neighbors cat is caught somewhere near the fan and the squeeling is actually the cat screaming as you are shaving his skin off, layer by layer. AnswerI agrre with the last guy, except about the cat. If it was the cat, it would also happen at idle.
Knowing what kind of car and engine size may help. However if you turn the wheel all the way at idle, do you hear this noise? You may or may not be able to tighten the belt. It may be controlled by a tensioner.
Do yourself a favor, find an independent repair shop you can trust. It always costs an arm and a leg (or seems to).Answermercury grand marquis vacuum switch whistle $250 replace subject 2002
http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?UseCase=S001&UserAction=viewSimpleDiagInfo&Parameters=infoAnswerCould possibly be the early warning brake sensors squealing. Goes away when you apply the brakes
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