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remover battery post pos side remove all belts remove crank pulley may need a puller remove timing cover turn engine to top dead center no.1 piston up marks on cams with marks on timing cover crank key should be at 12 oclock.replacing water pump an all idler pulleys should be done

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That's what i thought at first but no they arent, btw i prefer sydnee capri to kapri styles.

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hi, the four little holes in the front of the stereo are for 2 special tools. they are cheap (i think) and most shops have them around. it only takes 2 minutes to remove with the tools, so it shouldn't cost much to have a shop do it if you dont want to buy the tools. hope that helps

you can get the u shaped tools at walmart for about 7 bucks in the car stereo section wamong the installation kits.

I'll add you insert the two tools until you feel the first click. Then push each tool outwards towards the sides of the stereo which releases the catches. While doing that then pull straight out. The tools are readily available anywhere they sell stereos.

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Remove the battery and plastic battery tray. In the early model there were 2 sections to the cable (upper and lower) and they meet just under the edge of the battery tray. The upper cable comes throught the firewall in a rubber tube. The lower cable connects to the transmission. The 1993 capri is very simple. The cable will NOT come out the top. It can only be removed from the bottom but no need to get under the car or remove any parts. Cover the left fender to protect it and lay across the engine. Reach straight down in front of the firewall in about the center of the car. The speedometer cable attaches to the top of the transmission and the cable can probably be unscrewed by hand. Bend the cable up and pull the cable out. When replacing it, leave it dangling out an inch or two at the bottom to more easily seat the notch in the cable into the transmission. It will slide in the rest of the way when you push to housing back a screw it on. All in all a couple of minutes to do the whole job. These are specialty parts per the speedometer shop I talked to and are not easily re-made, so keep the one you have lubricated.

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Good question- the 1996 Mercury Tracer cooling fan relays usually described in wireing diagrams as "in the engine fuse box". Not true, though the relays near by, hidden in the front of the left fender, next to the air filter box, headlamp and fuse box. The air filter box must be removed, which reveals a wire harness and a rubber covered pair of relays and wire harness. One relay controls the high fan speed and one the low, both are necessary to be plugged in, for a complete circuit to run the fan. If the fan does not run with the A/C, check the "high speed" relay which is originally blue and has a blue wire connector plug. The plug can also melt, sometimes this is a sign the fan is wearing out and drawing excessively high current. The cooling fan is near the air filter box too, attached to the radiator with three wires connected to the motor. One wire is always grounded (black) the other two green wires supply the high and low fan speed power, which is always 12 to 14 volts. The speed control is within the fan motor depending on which wire gets power.

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You need to replace it. I ran into the problem a month ago. I removed the door panel and noticed the cable all stretched out. It's hard to find parts but located one on line. If you have a mechanic have the mechanic install the regulator. Dob't attempt it yourself if you are not familiar with it. It looks simple and i attempted it and it ended up costing me an additiona 400 dollars espicially when I damaged the lock. good luck

the above answer is bull.. its kind of hard, but if you are patient and can follow instructions i suggest checking out the how-to section of www.techcapri.com and there is an illustrated step by step guide on how to do it. make sure you use the right tools and follow their instructions. the one exception i made was that when it came to re-mounting the motor, i couldn't get an epoxy that would hold bolts onto it so i used zipties.. just make sure you tighten them reeeeaaaally tight, otherwise the motor will still sometimes swing out and block the window from going down.

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They unscrew from the back of the light assy. You may have to remove the light to get ot it.

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Go to this web site and download it for free http://www.techcapri.com/

You need to go to a car parts store, and get a repair manual for your car. They cost about $16.00 Or, go to a Public Library.

**** Note that this car is an Italian designed car, built in Australia for Mazda/ Ford. Mazda was concerned about competition for the Miata, but Ford saw it as a different market due to the extra seats. ****

With that knowledge, Finding a repair manual can be difficult. You might need to combine some info from a Miata manual with knowledge of how the front end is put together. Almost everything I have done on the front of the car involves removing pieces to get access to all the bolts and/ or disconnecting the Passenger side motor mount and dropping the engine.

For internal engine issues, I would say that if you cannot find an actual Capri manual, check manuals that have the Mazda 1.6l engine.

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In the exhaust pipe. the oxygen sensor is not in the exhaust pipe it is directly under the hood off of the exhaust manifold. it sets by itself and is easy to get to. you will probably have to cut the old sensor wire to get the old one out.

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I looked in a repair manual and it said that the gap for a 1.6 l is .040

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replace the axel!!! not just the joint. you have to remove the ball joint and the tie rod end. just remove the nut off the bottom of the tie rod end and it shouldn't mess up your alinement. then you have to remove the nut that is under your rim so you must remove your tire. and take that nut off also. and replace the wheel baring also if your going to replace stuff anyway.I think auto zone had a lone a tool program or something to remove the axel from the tranny. it just pops out. its easyer then it looks.

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automatic fluid ford If its a standard you don't put tranny fluid in it!! Lord have mercy if you are talkin about putting somethin in the clutch reservior it should plainly say DOT 3 which is brake fluid. If you put tranny fluid in that its gonna eat up the seals and you will have to replace the slave cylinder and the clutchmaster!! YOU SHOULD NEVER PUT TRANSMISSION FLUID IN A STANDARD!! Granted.... But there is a transmission that is sealed an NORMALLY wouldn't need any kind of oil. HOwever, due to circumstances, that transmission has been damaged and the oil has leaked, I have a new transmission with nothing. I can't seem to find any information on what goes into that...

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I just had a water pump installed in my Capri and while they're doing that, make sure they put a new timing belt in, because if you have a 91 Turbo w/ ac, it's a 4.5 hour job because the water pump is under the engine.

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Contrary to popular belief there is a set way that you take the top down and put the top back on. I usually start with unzipping the back window and taking it out then I undo the two snaps on the inside center ceiling (by the dome light), then unsnap the snaps at the top of the rear window on the cross bar, then undo the clips by the side windows in the back. Lastly I undo the clips (squeeze the side buttons together and pull back) at the very front by the visor opening the top so you can undo the snaps (or hooks in older models) and then peel it off going from the front and working my way to the back. I've done it like this for awhile and it's been the least hassle for me. Now I already know your next question: How do I put it back on? I first start by securing the two rear clips at the base of the top by the back door. It is vital you do this or else it will sound like a wind tunnel. Then I fasten the snaps (or hooks in older models) in the very front and put the top down and clip it shut (remember clips by the visor?) Remember the clip has to go over the little hook do-dad-thingy-ma-jigger before you can snap it back in place. If you catch some resistance you know you've done it right. (You wouldn't believe how complicated this process of the front overhead clips is for some people). Then I fasten the snaps at the rear ceiling to the cross bar. Then I go secure the clips at the side windows and then finish by fastening the ones in the inside center ceiling.

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there are two screws under the cover on the door handel and i think there are some along the door also. there are screws for that pocket thingy too. and screws along the outer eage of the door when you have the door open there are some close to the hinges and close to were the door holds itself shut. . i forget what all ones to remove I had mine off because my one speaker. I ended up removeing a few screws i didnt need to remove but i got it all backtogether

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there are two screws in side the head light houseing. you can get to them without taking the housing off the are spring loaded so be careful and i hope this helped

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yes

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The thermostat is located inside the housing on the right side of the engine. There is about as big as a woman's wrist running from the radiator to the engine on the right. It connects to the housing in question. There is generally a bolt on the top and nut on the bottom of this housing that will needs to be removed. Inside lies the thermostat.

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This is a difficult job. The front spindle assemblies must be removed. Then the assembly is pressed apart and the rotars are unbolted from the back. I tried this without proper tools and bought new bearings in the end. If you are mechanically inclined its probably better to remove the assemblies and take to dealer.

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I paid 265.00 parts and labor

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the stock stereo has four holes, two on each side of the stereo, about 1/8 th inch diameter. you can get the tools from walmart in the stereo section among the installation kits. it contains 2 U shaped rods with a knotch near the end. insert and pull both at the same time. (instructions in kit). costs about 7 bucks but well worth it. i just did this myself.