Probably, but it may be dirty and unable to "see" the daylight and turn off. Here is more input and advice: * If your daylight/nightlight sensor has a setting level you can increase or decrease the sensors level which will cause it to go off in a more appropriate manner you need to adjust these sensors and try them out you see what works for you. If you don't have this feature then I suggest that you buy the type which does you'll find it much more accommodating. * Insects or spiders can get into the sensor and cause this problem. Undo the connection and spray insect spray along the wiring conduit. * Advice from an electrician: First off never spray any electrical device with something like insect spray , it will cause failure. Electricians know what sprays are suitable for cleaning casings and electrical contacts and they never use anything else. Neither should you. It is simply too dangerous! The most common causes are bad connections or bad devices. So simply check connections: if connections are good and tight, it's a bad photo cell.

PS: Make sure power is off.

Nanci, in the book it tells you to disconect the front engine supports and use a ratchet strap to roll the engine foreward. I have not tried it yet but if you have the repair book and follow the directions it looks simple enough. I was going to try to change them without doing it and it looks impossible. I got the book from autozone. But I know the library has a copy you can check out. Good luck

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I am not an expert, but I just did my 2000 Venture today, new plugs and wires.

Tips about rotating engine forward if you do not have ramps... I don't. Engine needs to be in neutral, ratchet strap on driver side lifting eye, other end goes below radiator frame mount. Haynes manual shows a hook next to condenser - I don't put pointy things next to cores. Cinch up ratchet strap, then remove the 2 dogbones using 13/15 mm socket on the bolt/nut. Be sure to remove throttle/cruise cables and the big rubber air intake before rotating the engine.

Coil pack...10 mm screws in front, 13 mm nuts on standoffs next to firewall, 3 Packard connectors. I couldn't pull coil pack out as the wiper linkages were in the way - I just pushed it aside, but I also dremel wire-wheeled the corrosion off the terminals.

I got at rear plugs with 1/2" drive with 1/2-3/8 adapter + 2" extension + deep well plug socket. No u-joints required.

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Comment to above: loose 8 mm bolts on wiper arm attached to wiper motor,pop up arm and move to driver side.This gives you more room and also can remove coil pack.

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Don't gap the plugs - check with parts store as they should be pre-gapped. Gapping may remove platinum from premium plugs and you don't want to do this. Also, a tough job - buy the best wires/plugs u can as this whole thing took me 5+ hours and I don't want to do again for several years.

Use anti-seize compound on the plugs on about 1/2 the threads farthest from the tip as this will make subsequent removal easier.

Number your plug wires with sharpie on both ends, 1-6, it will help keep them straight.

Front plugs/wires are a snap compared to rear bank. I am not a mechanic, just technical by nature and armed with a Haynes manual - again recommended.

Assuming the temp gauge stays in the normal range (otherwise check thermostat and associated engine hoses etc). The heater core has a blockage, Check the heater core hoses that enter the firewall from the engine compartment they both should be warm after the engine warms up if just luke warm you have a heater core/hose blockage- remove the two heater core hoses that enter the firewall from the engine compartment. Remove the blockage by flushing the heater core with fresh water from a garden hose. You can flush the heater core by removing the inlet and outlet hose connections and then using a garden hose to back-flush the core. If you do this, you must be very careful as too much water pressure will cause the core to leak. No more than 18 lbs of water pressure should be used. Be careful or you will be replacing the core. This "Related Link" below is to a photo-tutorial on flushing the heater core in a 2000 Taurus

http://s35.photobucket.com/albums/d170spock81132000%20Taurus%20Heater%20Core%20Flush?action=view¤t=01FTHC.jpg I had my cooling system power-flushed at the local quick oil change shop - I thought it worthy investment for $40-50 it cost.

See "Related Questions" below for much more on Taurus / Sable heating-cooling systems
You need to disconnect the 2 heater hoses going to it and hook in a garden hose first to one then the other and if you're lucky you will be able to flush the core back & forth. If it won't, take it to a rad shop that has a higher pressure flush. You are taking a chance of blowing the core with the more pressure you force through it. Not a good thing if it leaks as at that point the dash has to come out (gut it too the firewall, a days work) to replace the core and while you're in there you might as well change the A/C evaporator as well as they are side by side.

One of the more ignorant jobs out there.....


I never heard of a total blockage in a heater core. This means you have the 2 hoses off the heater core connections and cannot force water back through the return pipe? How much oatmeal was used to plug that leak?

My dad use to work on cars and last week we froze to radiator up and he can and thawed it out and this week we were going to replace the heater core and he said it look like it was blocked is all, we don't know what is wrong with it all i know is i have air and no heat but i can elimate the little door thing bc it will put out warm air but not hot air so the gauge is working correct and allowing the hot air to get thru if there was any we have had it looked at three times and nobody can tell us what is wrong the heater core doesn't leak either?????
Do not rule out the 'little door thing' - it is very possible the temperature blend door actuator motor is NOT working.

If you are gettting some warm air, but basically cannot adjust the temps, it's even more likely to be the actuator.

See "Related Questions" below for more, not only about the actuator motor, but also flushing a core, replacing a core, and an outstanding round-up of "no-heat" trouble-shooting and repair steps.

You can Deactivate the Belt Minder two ways. First, you can deactivate it temporarily for your current "run cycle", that is after you have started your car and it's still running. Second, you completely deactivate the Belt Minder so that it never reminds you again, or at least until your reactivate it...

The first method, temporary deactivation, or one time disable: After you have started your vehicle, buckle and then un-buckle your safety belt. Be sure to buckle back up.... This will disable the Belt Minder only for that ignition cycle.

The second method, permanent deactivation: There are 9 steps you need to follow to deactivate or activate your Belt Minder system. Before doing so, make sure that: The parking brake is set. The truck/car is in Park (automatic), Neutral (manual). The ignition is OFF. All doors are closed. The driver's safety belt is un-buckled. The parking and headlights are OFF. Then follow these 9 steps:

Turn the ignition switch to ON, but DO NOT START. Wait for the safety belt warning light to go OFF(1-2 minutes). Steps 3-5 MUST be completed within 60 seconds!

Buckle, then un-buckle the driver's safety belt 3 times, ending with the belt un-buckled. Turn on the headlights, turn off the headlights. Buckle, then un-buckle the driver's safety belt 3 times, ending with the belt un-buckled. After step 5, the Safety Belt Warning Light will be turned on for 3 seconds.

Within 7 seconds of the safety belt warning light turning OFF, buckle then un-buckle the safety belt. This will disable the Belt Minder if it is currently enabled, or enable the Belt Minder if it is currently disabled.

Confirmation of the disabling of the Belt Minder is provided by flashing the safety belt warning light 4 times per seconds for 3 seconds. Confirmation of the enabling of the Belt Minder is provided by flashing the safety belt warning light 4 times per seconds for 3 seconds, followed by 3 seconds with the safety belt light off, then followed by flashing the safety belt light 4 times per second for 3 seconds again. After confirmation, the deactivation/activation of the Belt Minder procedure is complete.

Obviously, buckling the seatbelt should silence the reminder. If you see/hear the reminder and all belts used by the reminder ARE buckled, the vehicle should be taken in for service ASAP.

If you do not want to use your seatbelt for whatever reason, and wish to disable or silence the reminder system altogether, this can be done in a matter of minutes by a serviceperson at a dealership using a custom option setting device connected to the vehicle's internal computer. As this is a safety system, some dealerships may not be willing to do this unless you sign a liability waiver.

However, if you do not wish to have the vehicle serviced professionally for whatever reason or would like to disable or bypass the seat belt reminder system for certain seats only, the following options may be of help:

A piece of sheet metal of the same dimensions and shape as the actual seat belt 'plug' can be inserted into the seat belt 'socket' to silence the reminder. Obviously, the more the piece of metal resembles the actual 'plug', the more likely it is to work.

Also, as seat belt buckle design has not changed much lately, a junkyard is one source of seat belt 'plugs' that can be cut from their straps and inserted in the seat belt 'socket' to silence the reminder chime. It's likely that several model years of a car (and even different makes/models) may all have similar seat belt 'plugs'.

Lastly, there are wires running down the 'socket' end of the seatbelt which tell the car's computer if the seat belt is buckled or not. These wires may be cut, stripped and connected together (or separated, depending on which stops the reminder) permanently.

It should be mentioned that disabling or bypassing this safety system in any way is discouraged by vehicle manufacturers, insurance companies, safety specialists and many other private and public organizations and individuals. However, there are conditions for which seatbelt use is extremely uncomfortable or presents more harm than benefit, such as in the case of certain abdominal/thoracic medical conditions, morbid obesity, etc.

answer:

It's very simple. There is a small box-like switch plugged into your fuse box. Just pull it out. That will stop the warning bell/buzzer. The trick is to find out which "box" (switch) it is. Just pull them out one by one. You will find out. You won't hurt the car, don't worry. Look for tiny lettering on the fuse box itself, it may well say STBT, meaing, "seatbelt warning indicator". Something like that. You can try autozone.com, maybe they have a diagram of the fuse box for you. Maybe.