donde queda el fusible de la luz check ford 2005 explore
either UNDER the dash or under the hood...
Probably, but it may be dirty and unable to "see" the daylight and turn off. Here is more input and advice: * If your daylight/nightlight sensor has a setting level you can increase or decrease the sensors level which will cause it to go off in a more appropriate manner you need to adjust these sensors and try them out you see what works for you. If you don't have this feature then I suggest that you buy the type which does you'll find it much more accommodating. * Insects or spiders can get into the sensor and cause this problem. Undo the connection and spray insect spray along the wiring conduit. * Advice from an electrician: First off never spray any electrical device with something like insect spray , it will cause failure. Electricians know what sprays are suitable for cleaning casings and electrical contacts and they never use anything else. Neither should you. It is simply too dangerous! The most common causes are bad connections or bad devices. So simply check connections: if connections are good and tight, it's a bad photo cell.
PS: Make sure power is off.
On quite a few DTR systems, the lights *will* shut off, but only between 30 sec to a couple minutes after the ignition's been turned off.
Purchase a repair book from an auto parts store for the auto to be repaired. It will tell you all you need to know.
It also depends on what kinda of vehicle you want to do this on. On one particular vehicle the only way to get the oil pan off was to lift the engine (I'm not kiddin') and another one you had to take a part of the exhaust out of the way to get at it.... anyway, ya, other than the few pain in the butt ones, the rest ain't so hard.
1)drain the oil 2)remove the bolts 3) scrape away old gasket material or sealer from both surfaces (being careful not to scar them) 4) Clean the oil pan well (you don't want any extra junk in there when you put it back on. 5) Put on sealer/gasket 6)put bolts on 7) If you can find the proper tightening specifications, then go right ahead and do it, but if not, and you don't have some idea, then it's best to take it to a shop. Cork gaskets should be tightened to about 100 inch pounds (max 120, 100 being safe). I recommend using a torque wrench. It's best that you replace the oil filter too since the oil is already out and .... why not. :) I hope I could help :)
There are lots of things about WikiAnswers that can be improved upon. We're a small business and are constantly working to offer you a better site. If you have a specific problem or suggestion, post a more specific question or e-mail WikiAnswers@answers.com.
I assume you are talking about an automatic trans? If so, it doesn't sound good. Have you serviced trans lately? Sometimes brand new fluid can cause old trans to slip. Auto trans are complicated animals. Don't take it to one of those AAmco type places unless you want to spend a small fortune. The only trustworthy place I know is David Colbath Trans but that is in San Antonio, Texas. Ask your regular mechanic first, someone you trust. Good Luck! I had 2 identical Geos with the same problem. Turned out to be weak fuel pumps. Check your fuel pressure
THEY ARE TO THE LEFT OF THE STEERING COLUMN AS IT ENTERS THE FIREWALL...THEY ARE COVERED BY A SQUARE BLACK COVER
multiple reasons can cause overheating,usually the thermostat.But I found out it can also be The radiator being clooged,The fan clutch is faulty,or having a flex fan with out a shroud.It also depends on how it is driven. You may have the wrong size exhaust system if you or someone else have changed the engine from a 305 or smaller size. Could also be airlocked, a head gasket might be gone, water pump might be done as well. Hard to say. Depends on the circumstances and the progression of the ensuing issue. you can also bypass your heater core to make sure your heater core isn't clogged,your can also have your cooling system ckecked for leaks,and if you or someone has added alot of stop leaks to your cooling system that could also be the cause of your problems answer
the timing could be off and also you could have a reverse flow water pump (serpintine)
This will be included with your (nonfree) subscription to DealerWorld and SI.
Nanci, in the book it tells you to disconect the front engine supports and use a ratchet strap to roll the engine foreward. I have not tried it yet but if you have the repair book and follow the directions it looks simple enough. I was going to try to change them without doing it and it looks impossible. I got the book from autozone. But I know the library has a copy you can check out. Good luckAnswerI did sparkplug change and wires without removing anything else. The back three plugs look mind numbingly impossible, but you can (if you don't have meaty hands) get to them from underneath. Took me about 2 and 1/2 hrs to change plug and wires. You need a 3 inch socket extension for the plugs and, I used a full length handled 3/8 rachet. A stubby handle rachet would make removeal much easier. As for removing the wires; There is a wire loom on the back, the same as is on the front wires. The loom on the back I could not get unclipped. So, I cut it off. The wires that go to the back are quite short and I didn't bother to reinstall the loom. You can fish the wires up and out from on top of the engine, just work them slow and carefully. They came out easier than I thought they would. Enjoy.
I am not an expert, but I just did my 2000 Venture today, new plugs and wires.
Tips about rotating engine forward if you do not have ramps... I don't. Engine needs to be in neutral, ratchet strap on driver side lifting eye, other end goes below radiator frame mount. Haynes manual shows a hook next to condenser - I don't put pointy things next to cores. Cinch up ratchet strap, then remove the 2 dogbones using 13/15 mm socket on the bolt/nut. Be sure to remove throttle/cruise cables and the big rubber air intake before rotating the engine.
Coil pack...10 mm screws in front, 13 mm nuts on standoffs next to firewall, 3 Packard connectors. I couldn't pull coil pack out as the wiper linkages were in the way - I just pushed it aside, but I also dremel wire-wheeled the corrosion off the terminals.
I got at rear plugs with 1/2" drive with 1/2-3/8 adapter + 2" extension + deep well plug socket. No u-joints required.
Comment to above: loose 8 mm bolts on wiper arm attached to wiper motor,pop up arm and move to driver side.This gives you more room and also can remove coil pack.
Don't gap the plugs - check with parts store as they should be pre-gapped. Gapping may remove platinum from premium plugs and you don't want to do this. Also, a tough job - buy the best wires/plugs u can as this whole thing took me 5+ hours and I don't want to do again for several years.
Use anti-seize compound on the plugs on about 1/2 the threads farthest from the tip as this will make subsequent removal easier.
Number your plug wires with sharpie on both ends, 1-6, it will help keep them straight.
Front plugs/wires are a snap compared to rear bank. I am not a mechanic, just technical by nature and armed with a Haynes manual - again recommended.
Assuming the temp gauge stays in the normal range (otherwise check thermostat and associated engine hoses etc). The heater core has a blockage, Check the heater core hoses that enter the firewall from the engine compartment they both should be warm after the engine warms up if just luke warm you have a heater core/hose blockage- remove the two heater core hoses that enter the firewall from the engine compartment. Remove the blockage by flushing the heater core with fresh water from a garden hose. You can flush the heater core by removing the inlet and outlet hose connections and then using a garden hose to back-flush the core. If you do this, you must be very careful as too much water pressure will cause the core to leak. No more than 18 lbs of water pressure should be used. Be careful or you will be replacing the core. This "Related Link" below is to a photo-tutorial on flushing the heater core in a 2000 Taurus
http://s35.photobucket.com/albums/d170spock81132000%20Taurus%20Heater%20Core%20Flush?action=view¤t=01FTHC.jpg I had my cooling system power-flushed at the local quick oil change shop - I thought it worthy investment for $40-50 it cost.
See "Related Questions" below for much more on Taurus / Sable heating-cooling systems
You need to disconnect the 2 heater hoses going to it and hook in a garden hose first to one then the other and if you're lucky you will be able to flush the core back & forth. If it won't, take it to a rad shop that has a higher pressure flush. You are taking a chance of blowing the core with the more pressure you force through it. Not a good thing if it leaks as at that point the dash has to come out (gut it too the firewall, a days work) to replace the core and while you're in there you might as well change the A/C evaporator as well as they are side by side.
One of the more ignorant jobs out there.....
I never heard of a total blockage in a heater core. This means you have the 2 hoses off the heater core connections and cannot force water back through the return pipe? How much oatmeal was used to plug that leak?
My dad use to work on cars and last week we froze to radiator up and he can and thawed it out and this week we were going to replace the heater core and he said it look like it was blocked is all, we don't know what is wrong with it all i know is i have air and no heat but i can elimate the little door thing bc it will put out warm air but not hot air so the gauge is working correct and allowing the hot air to get thru if there was any we have had it looked at three times and nobody can tell us what is wrong the heater core doesn't leak either?????
Do not rule out the 'little door thing' - it is very possible the temperature blend door actuator motor is NOT working.
If you are gettting some warm air, but basically cannot adjust the temps, it's even more likely to be the actuator.
See "Related Questions" below for more, not only about the actuator motor, but also flushing a core, replacing a core, and an outstanding round-up of "no-heat" trouble-shooting and repair steps.
There should be an auto tension device. It is not adjustable. Usually at 60k miles you replace the serpentine belt, and usually you'll want to replace the tensioner as well. If tension is a problem, make sure it's the right belt, and if so - replace the tensioner.
2000/2001 BELT TENSIONER
There is a simple fix to this issue and I've run across the answer on a message board about a year ago, and when implemented by the Toyota mechanics there were amazed that the issue was fixed in less than a minute when their consideration was to purchase a new belt tensioner assembly at $350 bucks for the entire assembly.
NOW, you going to hate me for this but I cannot remember what the fix was. It had something to do with either tightening the Tensioner Pulley, or Tensioner Bold or some adjustment to hydraulic cylinder or flange. I'm sorry for the loss of memory, I should have wrote it down, cause the fix lasted 1.5 years and I have 120K on my Celica.
NOW if anyone knows what the funk I'm talking about, please fill me in, because the squeak is back and they are offering the same solution to purchase the assembly kit.
Alright. I just changed the Serpentine belt on my wife's 2001 Celica GT. Here are fairly detailed instructions on how to do it. USE THEM AT YOUR OWN RISK!!! USE THEM AT YOUR OWN RISK!!!
First. There are six pulleys on the passenger side of the motor. They are arranged almost like the diamonds (or whatever) on a 6 of diamonds playing card with the two in the center being set closer together than the top and bottom pairs. SO get a piece of paper and draw six circles on it like this. I am going to use numbers to help explain how the belt is routed.
2) alternator (1 power steering
tensioner pulley 3) (4 water pump
crank (5 6) A/C
The parenthesees show which direction the belt goes around the pulley.
Second, Take off the right side plastic cowling by popping out four plastic studs. Use a flat blade screwdriver and carefully pry them out. You may even be able to reach under and push a locking pin out of them. It is the dot in the center of the button head. Just push it straight out.
Third, Take off the top cowl from the head. It has two 10mm cap nuts and two plastic studs. They are not the same as the passenger side cowl studs. Just carefully pry them out with a plastic screwdriver. You will damage the cowling less if you pry under the cowl, not the buttons.
Fourth, Use an 18mm box wrench to loosen the bolt that holds the tensioner(About 6 inches behind the tensioner pulley). Push on the belt and you will notice that it has loosened some. Use the handle of a hammer to push harder on it and it will loosen a little more. Pry the belt off the alternator pulley and the rest will be pretty easy.
Fifth, Start routing the belt around the back three pulleys. Get it under pulleys 5(crank pulley) and 6(air conditioner compressor) with the ribs facing up. Loop it so that the flat side of the belt goes around pulley 3(Tensioner pulley). Then snake it around pulley 1(power steering) with the ribs facing the pulley. Move to the front of the motor. Bring the belt up and around pulley 4(Water pump)Bring up all remaining slack to the alternator pulley (6) Now holding the belt with one hand, make sure the belt has not fallen off the pulleys and adjust as neccesary.
Now take a 19MM box wrench and put it on the adjuster lug(about two inches forward of the bolt you loosened) on the tensioner assembly and pull toward the front of the car. At the same time, wiggle and pull and tug the belt onto the alternator pulley. You may need to put the box end of your 18mm wrench over the front lug of the open end of the 19mm to extend the 19mm so that you have leverage to pull it forward. Once the belt is on the alternator pulley, let the 19mm wrench back off. it will feel spring loaded. The belt will tighten and snug itself down to the pulleys. Then just tighten the 18mm bolt back up and check your work. Start the car to make sure it is on properly. Replace your cowls.
In the last post, the parentheses are wrong around the 1 and the 2. This is correct. (1 2), 3) (4 , (5 6) Sorry, Chris.
Click on the link below
Click on Owner Guides
The owners manual ( which includes the fuse diagram ) can be viewed online
1000 lbs max tow capacity for any model of 1999 escort
You can Deactivate the Belt Minder two ways. First, you can deactivate it temporarily for your current "run cycle", that is after you have started your car and it's still running. Second, you completely deactivate the Belt Minder so that it never reminds you again, or at least until your reactivate it...
The first method, temporary deactivation, or one time disable: After you have started your vehicle, buckle and then un-buckle your safety belt. Be sure to buckle back up.... This will disable the Belt Minder only for that ignition cycle.
The second method, permanent deactivation: There are 9 steps you need to follow to deactivate or activate your Belt Minder system. Before doing so, make sure that: The parking brake is set. The truck/car is in Park (automatic), Neutral (manual). The ignition is OFF. All doors are closed. The driver's safety belt is un-buckled. The parking and headlights are OFF. Then follow these 9 steps:
Turn the ignition switch to ON, but DO NOT START. Wait for the safety belt warning light to go OFF(1-2 minutes). Steps 3-5 MUST be completed within 60 seconds!
Buckle, then un-buckle the driver's safety belt 3 times, ending with the belt un-buckled. Turn on the headlights, turn off the headlights. Buckle, then un-buckle the driver's safety belt 3 times, ending with the belt un-buckled. After step 5, the Safety Belt Warning Light will be turned on for 3 seconds.
Within 7 seconds of the safety belt warning light turning OFF, buckle then un-buckle the safety belt. This will disable the Belt Minder if it is currently enabled, or enable the Belt Minder if it is currently disabled.
Confirmation of the disabling of the Belt Minder is provided by flashing the safety belt warning light 4 times per seconds for 3 seconds. Confirmation of the enabling of the Belt Minder is provided by flashing the safety belt warning light 4 times per seconds for 3 seconds, followed by 3 seconds with the safety belt light off, then followed by flashing the safety belt light 4 times per second for 3 seconds again. After confirmation, the deactivation/activation of the Belt Minder procedure is complete.
Obviously, buckling the seatbelt should silence the reminder. If you see/hear the reminder and all belts used by the reminder ARE buckled, the vehicle should be taken in for service ASAP.
If you do not want to use your seatbelt for whatever reason, and wish to disable or silence the reminder system altogether, this can be done in a matter of minutes by a serviceperson at a dealership using a custom option setting device connected to the vehicle's internal computer. As this is a safety system, some dealerships may not be willing to do this unless you sign a liability waiver.
However, if you do not wish to have the vehicle serviced professionally for whatever reason or would like to disable or bypass the seat belt reminder system for certain seats only, the following options may be of help:
A piece of sheet metal of the same dimensions and shape as the actual seat belt 'plug' can be inserted into the seat belt 'socket' to silence the reminder. Obviously, the more the piece of metal resembles the actual 'plug', the more likely it is to work.
Also, as seat belt buckle design has not changed much lately, a junkyard is one source of seat belt 'plugs' that can be cut from their straps and inserted in the seat belt 'socket' to silence the reminder chime. It's likely that several model years of a car (and even different makes/models) may all have similar seat belt 'plugs'.
Lastly, there are wires running down the 'socket' end of the seatbelt which tell the car's computer if the seat belt is buckled or not. These wires may be cut, stripped and connected together (or separated, depending on which stops the reminder) permanently.
It should be mentioned that disabling or bypassing this safety system in any way is discouraged by vehicle manufacturers, insurance companies, safety specialists and many other private and public organizations and individuals. However, there are conditions for which seatbelt use is extremely uncomfortable or presents more harm than benefit, such as in the case of certain abdominal/thoracic medical conditions, morbid obesity, etc.
It's very simple. There is a small box-like switch plugged into your fuse box. Just pull it out. That will stop the warning bell/buzzer. The trick is to find out which "box" (switch) it is. Just pull them out one by one. You will find out. You won't hurt the car, don't worry. Look for tiny lettering on the fuse box itself, it may well say STBT, meaing, "seatbelt warning indicator". Something like that. You can try autozone.com, maybe they have a diagram of the fuse box for you. Maybe.
The fuse block on a 1995 Windstar is on the left side mounted under the dash. there is also a large fuse block in the engine compartment next to the battery.
check odb codes and check o2 sen.
Need to remove engine mount bolts jack motor up as high as possible best to remove disributor cap as not to crack it remove oil pan remove oil pump and shaft install new pick up screen so that screen is flat with the bottom of pump have to hammer it in using vise grips clipped above ring on screen reinstall shaft and reverse process.
: You mind aswell buy a new motor because the old one could not have survived without the oil pump running. Its also easier/potentially cheaper to slap a rebuilt motor for $900 into the truck, rather than replacing all the gaskets, seals and rusted bolts you will have to remove to change the oil pump.
Hi, I found 4 on mine 2 up front and 2 in the rear. Hope this helps
take the plastic of from the passenger side underneath the dash.. the blower motor is up under their tucked away.. but you can get it after a few hrs of work..
Ford still makes the E-250 van. It was the E-150 they stopped making, I think around 2002-2004
Center of dash, below the ash tray is a slot 4 inches by 1/2 inch.
The Ford 300 has a side cover for this purpose. It is hard to get at in a van.
There is no way to answer this question without more information, i.e. which Ford. Ford Focus, Ranger, F-150 -- they are all different. You need to be more specific if you expect an answer. If you are asking about a car or truck you own, try reading your owner's manual. GVW AND GVWR ARE IN THE DRIVER DOOR JAM ON THE SAME STICKER AT THE VIN #
What is pokediger1s password on roblox?
Asked By Wiki User
What is 8 divided by 2(2 plus 2)?
Asked By Wiki User
What website can you type in a riddle and get the answer?
Asked By Wiki User
Asked By Cherry
What 9.30 pm matka number?
Asked By Wiki User
How much oil in a 2005 ford E 250?
Asked By Wiki User
How do you remove radio from 2011 ford van?
Asked By Wiki User
Where is the heater control valve on a 2000 ford E250 van?
Asked By Wiki User
Copyright © 2020 Multiply Media, LLC. All Rights Reserved. The material on this site can not be reproduced, distributed, transmitted, cached or otherwise used, except with prior written permission of Multiply.