why would you ask that question? O.O hahaha dont sweat it if it happened somehow, it most definitelly wont do anything.
The fuel pump / fuel gauge sending unit is located in the fuel tank. You have to drain the tank and lower it, to get to the round access hatch on top of the tank. You remove this access hatch by screwing it counterclockwise. The fuel pump and fuel gauge sending unit are located just below the round hatch.
You can tell if the fuel pump is turning on, by turning the key to the electrical system "on" position (not the engine start position). You should be able to hear a low hum as the pump runs for a few seconds before it builds enough pressure and shuts off.
There is also a relay module that sits on top of the radiator. You have to pull a flat plastic cover off the top of the radiator to expose it. It's about 3 1/2 x 5 inches and has about a dozen wires or so connected to it. This relay also controls other things like the electric cooling fan etc. I heard the pink wire with the black stripe controls the fuel pump, but cannot swear to that. I needlessly replaced the fuel pump when trying to diagnose a fuel pump problem, when the problem was with the relay. The Ford dealer wanted a fortune for the relay module. I wanted an original Ford part because I heard stories that after-market parts were really trouble. So, I went to a junk yard and got one for under five bucks. Take the old one to the junk yard so you can match the numbers. Ford made a lot of different relays that look the same on the outside, so make sure you match the numbers on the parts.AnswerThe fuel pump is in the fuel tank on the top side. Most of the time if you take out the rear seat, you can accesss the fuel tank top side to get to it. I hope this helps you. Good luck. AnswerThe pump is in the gas tank. See if you have a plate over the pump area. AnswerIt is in the fuel tank. You will have to jack up the rear as high as you can, and secure on jack stands. You will need some help, and hopefully the tank is nearly empty, otherwise you are in for a battle. The tank is held in with two long straps. Also there is a filler neck and vent hose at the rear of the tank that will have to be disconnected. The tank will have to be lowered and removed. I recommend some help and a good floorjack, with a piece of plywood between the jack and the tank. Lower the tank slowly while disconnecting fuel lines and wires as they become visible. Onced the tank is removed, you can remove the fuel pump lock ring on top of the tank. It screws off counterclockwise, but it is stubborn. I use a hammer and a big flat screwdriver to get it loose. From there it is self-explanatory. Replace the pump, and reassemble. AnswerI actually just helped a friend with this problem. First, siphon as much gas out of the fuel tank as you can, to make it lighter. Next, disconnect your negative battery cable. Jack up the rear of your car and put jack stands under it so you can take out your jack...you are going to need to do that before you can proceed. Then disconnect the lines right at the fuel filter. Look at the gas tank, and you should see two steel straps wrapping underneath it. They should be bolted in toward the back of the car, and I believe the bolt head size is 13mm or 1/2" socket. Move your jack under the fuel tank to support the tank's weight (but DON'T jack up the car by using the fuel tank as a jacking point, or it will crush the fuel tank). Use an impact gun or a rachet and loosen the bolts holding the straps, but don't take them all the way out just yet. Grab a screwdriver and take the clap off the filler neck so you can wiggle it off the tank. Then, with your tank fully supported by the jack, take out the strap bolts. Next steps you will need to do a little thinking for yourself because the tank will need to be wiggled out of a tight spot between the exhaust and the firewall. It can be tricky, but it can be done. Have someone help you by letting the jack down slowly, and from time to time help you wiggle the tank from tightly wedged spots. When the tank is down you should be able to unhook the pigtail hook up from the fuel pump. Slide the gas tank out from under the car, and you can use a specialty tool from an autoparts store or use a flathead screwdriver to slide the ring loose. Then the fuel pump should slide right out. AnswerYour fuel pump is in your Fuel tank AnswerThe fuel pump is located in the fuel tank. It will be necessary to remove the fuel tank to gain access and replace the pump. Once the tank is removed, the fuel pump will be under the large lockring on the top of the tank. AnswerTo test whether the fuel pump is basically working at all, turn the ignition key to the electrical "on" position (not ignition start), and listen for the sound of the pump activating. You can easily connect a pressure gauge to the line near the injector rails and check if pressure is within specs. Good Luck. AnswerIt is in the fuel tank. You will have to jack up the rear as high as you can , and secure on jack stands. You will need some help, and hopefully the tank is nearly empty, otherwise you are in for a battle. The tank is held is with two long straps. Also there is a filler neck and vent hose at the rear of the tank that will have to be disconnected. The tank will have to be lowered and removed. I recommend some help and a good floorjack, with a piece of plywood between the jack and the tank. Lower the tank slowly while disconnecting fuel lines and wires as they become visible. Onced the tank is removed, you can remove the fuel pump lock ring on top of the tank. It screws off counterclockwise, but it is stubborn. I use a hammer and a big flat screwdriver to get it loose. From there it is self-explanitory. Replace the pump, and reassemble.
I had to check prices on my 2001 Chevy Malibu in January 2011 and the prices were between 340.00 and 380.00 depending on where I bought the parts from. You have to buy the entire assembly and I priced at Auto Zone, Napa, Chevolet dealership, Advanced Auto Parts, and O'Reilly Auto Parts. Prices have probably gone up since then and will vary depending on where you live.
Try idle air control valve
Some car makers provide an access panel, normally located either under the trunk mat or the rear seat, so that the in-tank electric fuel pump can be accessed.
Ford does not do this on the Mercury Sable. To replace the 1996 Mercury Sable fuel pump, the entire gas tank must be removed from the vehicle. To do this, the vehicle must be raised so that the bottom of the gas tank is at least 18 to 24 inches off of a solid surface so that the tank can be dropped and removed.
Before attempting to remove the gas tank, the fuel pressure in the gas lines and intake manifold must be relieved, and all gasoline removed from the gas tank. Since there is no drain plug, and the fuel spout, or filler tube is convoluted and twisted from the gas cap to the bottom of the tank, a 1/4" to 3/8" eight foot long siphon tube will be needed to remove most
of the gas.
On a vehicle that is 12 years old, many, or all of the plastic retainer clips and fittings on the rubber and metal gas lines will be brittle, hard to remove, and will break and must be replaced. Some of the rubbers hoses will also be "welded" to the metal pipes and fittings and might also need replacement, after being pried and twisted off of their fittings.
All rubber gaskets, or "O" rings on the fuel lines will need to be replaced upon assembly once the gas lines have been disconnected because the older "O" rings will have expanded once exposed to air and will leak after assembly.
Once the gas tank is drained and removed, and the fuel pump is accessible to be replaced you can assume that the entire in-tank fuel pump assembly, and not just the electric fuel pump itself, will need to be replaced. This is because all of the lines, fittings, and housing holding or connected to the electric fuel pump are plastic and will be brittle and prone to break upon removal or installation.
Since removing, and replacing the gas tank on the vehicle requires special tools and jacks and jack stands, and could involve danger of an explosion, the subject should be studied very carefully before any removal is attempted. Either the Chilton or Haynes automotive manuals will provide about 90% of the knowledge needed to do the removal and replacement.
The other 10% will be learned as you try to follow the Chilton or Haynes instructions.Procedures
This repair is not a quick or easy one. The less fuel in the tank the easier it will be. I wouldn't recommend even attempting this repair with more than 1/4 of a tank of fuel, and you really need a lift to make this repair, especially if there is any weight to the tank whatsoever. And always perform fuel related repairs in a well ventilated area.
You can buy just the pump, but I would recommend going ahead and replacing the entire assembly. The cost is $220-$260 for Carter or Airtex brands.
1. Disconnect the cable from the negative battery post.
2. Locate the fill tube (hard tube attached at the rear of the tank which goes to the gas cap) and remove the hose clamp at the end of the fill tube. Do not remove the clamp at the tank.
3. DO NOT PERFORM THIS STEP WITHOUT HAVING THE TANK SUPPORTED! The tank is attached by two metal straps which are bolted at the rear of the tank. When you support the tank, do not obstruct the straps, they will need to fall freely when you remove them. The straps are attached by one bolt each at the rear of the tank. Remove the bolts and let the straps fall away from the tank. IT IS EXTREMELY IMPORTANT THAT YOU DO NOT BEND THE STRAPS! They must retain their shape to fit back on the tank correctly.
4. Lower the tank enough so that you can reach the top of the tank. Disconnect the plugs (2 of them). Take a look at the new pump to get an idea of how to disconnect the plugs if you need to.
5. Remove the sending unit sensor and vent tube (both should have blue caps). The smaller of the two will pop out with a little wiggling, but be careful to not break the lip. The larger of the two has to be rotated 90 degrees to be removed.
6. Remove the fuel line from the pump by pressing the button on the side of the coupling and the line should simply slide off. The tank should be completely free at this point.
7. Remove the tank. Plug up any open holes in the tank to prevent trash from getting in the fuel.
8. Remove the locking ring. This is done by placing a screwdriver against the raised parts of the ring and tapping the screwdriver until the ring is free.
9. Press down on the pump assembly and rotate counter-clockwise very slightly until the assembly is free. It is spring-loaded so it should be very obvious when it is free. Remove the old assembly from the tank.
10. Now would be a good time to remove any excess gas from the tank if you are not using a lift. The tank has to go back in a fairly precarious position so the lighter it is, the easier it will be to maneuver.
11. Remove the old seal and place the new one on the tank.
12. Place the new pump assembly in the tank. Press down and rotate the assembly until it locks in. Replace and tighten the locking ring.
13. Now it is time to replace and reconnect everything in the opposite order you disconnected them in. If the tank is in the correct position and there is nothing obstructing it (the plugs tend to get caught between the tank and the body and prevent the tank from seating correctly) then the straps should fit back easily.
14. Once you are sure everything has been reconnected (and don't forget the fill tube hose) put at least 10 gallons of gas in the tank before attempting to start the car.
15. Reconnect the battery post and start the car.
First, You have to relieve the fuel pressure, and then siphon all of the fuel out. to siphon, you need to remove the fuel filler neck. after the neck is removed, and while the tank is still bolted to the car, insert a siphon into the small rubber hose that connected the neck to the tank and siphon the fuel. you have to do that because the filler neck is very long and all of the siphons that i used did not have a hose long enough the reach down the neck and into the tank.
drop the tank by removing the two straps that hold it on...not an easy proceedure done alone, use a jack with a piece of wood large enough to support the tank. also use a helper if available...it's a large tank and it awkwardly shaped.
disconnect all fuel lines, and be prepared to use new plastic clips that hold the lines on.
disconnect fuel vapor valve hose from vapor valve on top of tank
****be carefull removing that hose,**** the valve will brake off at the lip and...that part has been discontinued by ford, you will have to go to a junkyard to replace it if you break it.
remove the top circular hold down ring that holds the pump in. Use brass tools so as not to cause a spark.
remove the pump, and rubber gasket that surrounds the hole.
install new rubber gasket around pump opening with new one and fresh grease to hold it in. a new pump should come with a new rubber gasket, and an auto parts shop will tell you what type of grease to use on it.
install new pump and circular hold down ring.
reconnect all lines,
re-connect fuel filler neck and rubber hoses that connect filler neck tube to tank. you'll probably have to use new hoses.
again...not easy to do alone, a jack is needed, and a helper is great!
Steve phx AZ
its in the gas tank. you have to drop the tank to access it.
the pump is inside the gas tank so you need to drop the tank and replace the pump.
It is inside the fuel tank. Remove the tank and you see a large round ring at the top. Open the rang and lift out the pump.
Taurus / Sable, and most Ford fuel pumps are inside the gas tank.
See "Related Questions" below
In the fuse box under the hood. The legend is on the inside of the lid.
there should be a fitting on the fuel rail going into the injectors on the top of the motor it should have a cap over the valve and say fuel line just take the cap off and press the valve in like you are letting the air out of a tire
The Ford branded pump lists for over $300 - aftermarket brands run ~ $125-200 here (jan 2009). The labor in the book is 2 hours.
Prices range from $100 - $140 - $200 - $232 (Motorcraft brand!).
It is in the fuel tank. You will have to jack up the rear as high as you can , and secure on jack stands. You will need some help, and hopefully the tank is nearly empty, otherwise you are in for a battle.
The tank is held is with two long straps. Also there is a filler neck and vent hose at the rear of the tank that will have to be disconnected. The tank will have to be lowered and removed. I recommend some help and a good floor jack, with a piece of plywood between the jack and the tank.
Lower the tank slowly while disconnecting fuel lines and wires as they become visible.
Once the tank is removed, you can remove the fuel pump lock ring on top of the tank. It screws off counterclockwise, but it is stubborn. I use a hammer and a big flat screwdriver to get it loose. From there it is self-explanatory. Replace the pump, and reassemble.
See "Related Links" for Autozone's free, online Chilton's Service Manual illustrated procedures for removing the gas tank. This should be an excellent guide even for the later models.
There is also a link to the same repair guide with information on the fuel pump itself. Again, the information should be very applicable to the different model years (a pump is a pump is a pump?)
NOTE: Autozone now requires free registration to access the repair guides. More than worth the extra effort for these photo/illustrated instructions.
Drain the fuel out of the tank, and then drop the tank. Fuel pump is located inside of fuel tank.Answer
See "Related Questions" below for a write-up on the same procedures for a 2000+ Taurus - much of it applies well to the Windstar
It is in the gas tank. Fuel tank must be removed to replace it.
just connect all hoses on fuel tank, drain fuel if there a lot fuel in tank, lower fuel tank by removing the 2 bolts on fuel tank straps you will need special fuel line remover tool to remove fuel lines from fuel pump and just connect wire connector on fuel pump clean off all dirt by fuel pump remove lock ring pull fuel pump outAnswer
The fuel pump is located in the fuel tank. To access it you must drop the tank.
not necessarily most people do but i have cut a hole through the truck or floor if you want to just be very careful if you cut it in the right spot it only has to be a few inches bigger than the pump
On most fuel injected vehicles (maybe all) there are two fuel pumps. The low pressure / high volume pump is in the tank. The high pressure pump that serves the injector manifold is usually mounted on the frame in the engine compartment. The pump you hear at start-up is the one in the tank. Carl
See "Related Questions" below for more
Yes, get that thing out of there. It's gonna ruin your engine.
Smith Meter Systems (1937-1976)
This unit manufactured petroleum meters, valves and related oil-field equipment as well as gasoline dispensing pumps. The original Smith Meter Company was founded in Los Angeles, Calif., by R. Stanley Smith, a nephew of A. O. Smith and son of Alonzo Smith. Smith Meter was acquired in 1937, followed by Neptune Meter (1948) a manufacturer of service station pumps. Added the Erie Meter Systems Inc. operation (1958) and consolidated operations in Erie, Pa. Reformed as Meter & Service Station Equipment Division (1961). Business sold to GeoSource Inc. of Houston, Texas (1976).
The fuel pump inertia switch for a 1998 Ford Windstar is located behind the trim panel by the driver's left foot by the hood release (according to the owners manual)
I just reset mine, and can confirm that the above answer is correct. The switch is just below the hood release. There will be a finger sized hole, accessible vertically. Very easy to see and get to.1999-2003 Reset Button location
The switch is located inside the jack storage compartment found at the right rear corner of the vehicle. Remove the cover and it is behind the thin "foam" covering inside the compartment towards the rear of the vehicle.
It has a red button on the top of the switch, make sure the button is fully depressed. If it is and the vehicle still won't start check fuel pressure at the rail (there is a port on the rail which is under the hood on the engine) with a fuel pressure gauge. If the pressure is ok (about 30 psi) the problem is most likely not fuel system related.
The emergency fuel pump cutoff switch, also known as the inertia switch, cuts power to the fuel pump in the event of an accident - even a slow speed one - any sudden "jolt" can trigger the switch.Answer
Visit my auto blog at http:/free-auto-repair-advice.blogspot.com In the back, with the hatch open, take off the access cover to the jack (it's on the right side, behind the rear seat). If you snake your finger around the front of the opening, you should feel the reset switch, That's where it is on my '95, and since Ford isn't known for changing their cars much from one decade to the next, I'd presume that's where yours is.Answer
The button is in the jack compartment in the back...passenger side. Its a red button. If it is not 'triggered' check the fuse under the hood to make sure it is not bad.
The button is in the jack compartment in the back...passenger side. Its a red button. If it is not 'triggered' check the fuse under the hood to make sure it is not bad. My fuel reset bottom is located under the hood release handle. Look at the sticker under your hood. The location will be told in text
Behind the service panel on the right side of the cargo area ( according to the owners
Well, a variety of things would cause sputtering and hesitation. When the engine is cold, the thickness of oil is greatly increased, and may not make it all the way up to the top of the valves and that would make the engine rumble and die. Colder temperatures also would make a throttle stick, causing hesitation. Your choke may be sticky. Maybe your temperature sensor is off, and is registering the 'cold' temp colder than it actually is. At any rate, plan an extra minute or two and LET YOUR CAR WARM UP before you drive it. And remember, everyone else on the road has had their cars sputter, hesitate, and die in traffic. It happens when its cold out.
If it is a new enough Toyota the fuel injectors take a while to warm up and often does that in my truck don't worry about it but let it warm up like five minutes or so before going over twenty-five or so.
My experience with a '98 Tacoma 4 cylinder: the mass air sensor was dirty. Twice.
It is just downstream of the air cleaner. First time a small tear in the air filter allowed dirt in. Second time a tiny bit of hair, probably off my shirt, when I changed the filter.
This duckbill thing... oftentimes a metal clip inside will be damaged. If it is extremely difficult to remove, you may need to mangle the clip somewhat to remove it and install a new clip. Note that a new clip typically costs about 50 cents or so, whereas reusing a damaged clip can cost a fire.
New fuel lines will seem hard to remove. Most new lines use either a hairpin or duckbill fitting. The duckbill requires a special tool that can be purchased at your auto parts store. There is a tool for the hairpin fitting but most can be removed with needle nosed pliers and/or a standard screwdriver. I usually suggest visiting a dealer repair shop and asking to be shown by a mechanic how the fittings work. A hairpin fitting is a plastic piece over the fuel line while the duckbill is a bell shaped aluminum end that fits over the fuel pump or fuel filter.
It really depends on where you mean and other factors such as where you live. Northern areas can be rough.
Maybe the fuel cutoff on the pump you are using doesn't work. Also, you are pumping gas too fast. There are no moving parts to the overflow hose. If you are getting overflow it is doing it's job. Slow down on the speed of refilling it.
i know the main relay is on the passanger side behind the glove box.take that out(just push in the sides it will come out) and look for a square black or brown box.its held on by a 10mm bolt.
Frozen as in ICE? Wait.,,, FYI, Gas does not freeze, if frozen, there is water present. Frozen as in stuck? Replace it.
It's approximately under the driver's door - a hose clamp holding it in place and two easy connectors. 10 minute job to replace.
* 5/16th nut driver for the clamp,
* needle nose pliers & slotted screw driver for the little plastic clips
* watch out for dripping gas - be prepared with rags & small container. * Chilton's recommends 30,000 mile replacement - 15K under severe conditions * Cost is about $10-15 * Test: blow into it - the more back-pressure, the more plugged up it is * ** used mouthwash before kissing loved ones or smoking after conducting fuel filter test
under the driver side frame, near the fuel tank. the fuel filter is located underneath the vehicle on the driver side in the fuel line( in the area by the drivers door). To change it, first open the fuel cap to relive fuel pressure( shut off the engine first of course) then remove the clip at each end of the filter and remove the fuel line from each end of the filter ( a special tool may be required to remove the lines from the filter,depending on model year) then remove the clamp securing the filter to the vehicle with a flathead screwdriver or appropriate socket wrench. installation is in reverse order, replace fuel cap,start vehicle and check your work for leaks! www.autozone.com Click component location. The filter is located under the van on the drivers side slightly ahead of the fuel fill door. The fuel filter is located under the vehicle by the drivers door. It is about as big around as a soda can and silver iin color. There should be a couple of clips holding it on to the fuel line. 5 minute job, just beware of fuel under pressure might spray when you take the old filter off. On the 1999-2003 (and likely all Windstar models), the fuel filter is found under the vehicle, approximately under the drivers seat - mounted to the frame rail.
Very easy replacement job - should be more than 10-15 minutes. The fuel filter is located under the body,at the drivers door, on the frame. It looks like a round silver(or black depending on manufacturer) canister with lines coming in from both ends.
It has snap connectors for the lines. To disconnect the lines, you must squeeze the connectors with small pliers (Ford has a tool for this) while pulling the lines out.
Be VERY careful because the fuel will pour out when the lines come off.
Release the filter bracket (5/16ths nut-driver) to remove the filter.
Replace the new filter into the bracket - make sure the 'flow' arrow is pointing forward
Push the lines in until you hear a click and you're finished
On a 1996 Dodge Caravan, the fuel pump is located inside the fuel tank. If you look at the tank directly, the tank dips in on the side and has a round white object sitting on top of it with an electrical connection and two black rubber hoses connected. Those hoses are fuel filter lines, and the white thing is the top of the pump. Empty then lower the tank, unhook all the connections, and use a strap wrench or similar tool to loosen it, and what you pull out is the fuel pump. Ta-da! =)
Owner of a 98 bi-fuel countour that runs like a typical ford. Half the time it will only run on unleaded...not very enviro friendly. Ford isn't much of a help...local dealer isn't authorized and the nearest authorized dealer is 2 1/2 hours away. They seem to know what they are doing and honor the warrenty...but the bi-fuel systems seem to have a lot of issues...more headaches then it is worth even if Natural Gas is cheaper than unleaded.
It's a big deal, 'cause it's INSIDE the gas tank. Haffta drop the whole gas tank to get at it.
Its easy but you have to make sure you have the correct replacement wiper blades. The 2006 Mercedes-Benz ML350 has the newer style and more rare "pinch tab" wiper arms. See sources and related links below for installation videos. Also, purchase the replacement blades first and there will be additional instructions/illustrations on the replacement packages - note that not all wipers will fit on pinch tab arms so be sure to reference the make, model and year of your vehicle for the brand wipers you choose to purchase. Pinch-tab compatible wipers are a little bit trickier to find. Locate and press the tabs where the wiper blade meets the wiper arm then tip or rotate the wiper down out of the tab attachment, then rotate slightly so you can remove the little hook at the end out of the hole. The video below shows this in the reverse order but you'll get it.
You can find used marine fuel injection pumps for Mercury Marine at junkyards. You can also check local marine stores.
On all fuel injection motors from the early 90's with fuel injection the fuel pump is located inside the gas tank. Before you try and pull the fuel pump out you need to relieve the presure in the lines. Please use caution. A good repair manual will tell you how to do this job the right way.
NO....if Fuel pump doesnt sent fuel to engine...engine cannot combust...
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