The fuel pump / fuel gauge sending unit is located in the fuel tank. You have to drain the tank and lower it, to get to the round access hatch on top of the tank. You remove this access hatch by screwing it counterclockwise. The fuel pump and fuel gauge sending unit are located just below the round hatch.

You can tell if the fuel pump is turning on, by turning the key to the electrical system "on" position (not the engine start position). You should be able to hear a low hum as the pump runs for a few seconds before it builds enough pressure and shuts off.

There is also a relay module that sits on top of the radiator. You have to pull a flat plastic cover off the top of the radiator to expose it. It's about 3 1/2 x 5 inches and has about a dozen wires or so connected to it. This relay also controls other things like the electric cooling fan etc. I heard the pink wire with the black stripe controls the fuel pump, but cannot swear to that. I needlessly replaced the fuel pump when trying to diagnose a fuel pump problem, when the problem was with the relay. The Ford dealer wanted a fortune for the relay module. I wanted an original Ford part because I heard stories that after-market parts were really trouble. So, I went to a junk yard and got one for under five bucks. Take the old one to the junk yard so you can match the numbers. Ford made a lot of different relays that look the same on the outside, so make sure you match the numbers on the parts.

Some car makers provide an access panel, normally located either under the trunk mat or the rear seat, so that the in-tank electric fuel pump can be accessed.

Ford does not do this on the Mercury Sable. To replace the 1996 Mercury Sable fuel pump, the entire gas tank must be removed from the vehicle. To do this, the vehicle must be raised so that the bottom of the gas tank is at least 18 to 24 inches off of a solid surface so that the tank can be dropped and removed.

Before attempting to remove the gas tank, the fuel pressure in the gas lines and intake manifold must be relieved, and all gasoline removed from the gas tank. Since there is no drain plug, and the fuel spout, or filler tube is convoluted and twisted from the gas cap to the bottom of the tank, a 1/4" to 3/8" eight foot long siphon tube will be needed to remove most

of the gas.

On a vehicle that is 12 years old, many, or all of the plastic retainer clips and fittings on the rubber and metal gas lines will be brittle, hard to remove, and will break and must be replaced. Some of the rubbers hoses will also be "welded" to the metal pipes and fittings and might also need replacement, after being pried and twisted off of their fittings.

All rubber gaskets, or "O" rings on the fuel lines will need to be replaced upon assembly once the gas lines have been disconnected because the older "O" rings will have expanded once exposed to air and will leak after assembly.

Once the gas tank is drained and removed, and the fuel pump is accessible to be replaced you can assume that the entire in-tank fuel pump assembly, and not just the electric fuel pump itself, will need to be replaced. This is because all of the lines, fittings, and housing holding or connected to the electric fuel pump are plastic and will be brittle and prone to break upon removal or installation.

Since removing, and replacing the gas tank on the vehicle requires special tools and jacks and jack stands, and could involve danger of an explosion, the subject should be studied very carefully before any removal is attempted. Either the Chilton or Haynes automotive manuals will provide about 90% of the knowledge needed to do the removal and replacement.

The other 10% will be learned as you try to follow the Chilton or Haynes instructions.

This repair is not a quick or easy one. The less fuel in the tank the easier it will be. I wouldn't recommend even attempting this repair with more than 1/4 of a tank of fuel, and you really need a lift to make this repair, especially if there is any weight to the tank whatsoever. And always perform fuel related repairs in a well ventilated area.

You can buy just the pump, but I would recommend going ahead and replacing the entire assembly. The cost is $220-$260 for Carter or Airtex brands.

1. Disconnect the cable from the negative battery post.

2. Locate the fill tube (hard tube attached at the rear of the tank which goes to the gas cap) and remove the hose clamp at the end of the fill tube. Do not remove the clamp at the tank.

3. DO NOT PERFORM THIS STEP WITHOUT HAVING THE TANK SUPPORTED! The tank is attached by two metal straps which are bolted at the rear of the tank. When you support the tank, do not obstruct the straps, they will need to fall freely when you remove them. The straps are attached by one bolt each at the rear of the tank. Remove the bolts and let the straps fall away from the tank. IT IS EXTREMELY IMPORTANT THAT YOU DO NOT BEND THE STRAPS! They must retain their shape to fit back on the tank correctly.

4. Lower the tank enough so that you can reach the top of the tank. Disconnect the plugs (2 of them). Take a look at the new pump to get an idea of how to disconnect the plugs if you need to.

5. Remove the sending unit sensor and vent tube (both should have blue caps). The smaller of the two will pop out with a little wiggling, but be careful to not break the lip. The larger of the two has to be rotated 90 degrees to be removed.

6. Remove the fuel line from the pump by pressing the button on the side of the coupling and the line should simply slide off. The tank should be completely free at this point.

7. Remove the tank. Plug up any open holes in the tank to prevent trash from getting in the fuel.

8. Remove the locking ring. This is done by placing a screwdriver against the raised parts of the ring and tapping the screwdriver until the ring is free.

9. Press down on the pump assembly and rotate counter-clockwise very slightly until the assembly is free. It is spring-loaded so it should be very obvious when it is free. Remove the old assembly from the tank.

10. Now would be a good time to remove any excess gas from the tank if you are not using a lift. The tank has to go back in a fairly precarious position so the lighter it is, the easier it will be to maneuver.

11. Remove the old seal and place the new one on the tank.

12. Place the new pump assembly in the tank. Press down and rotate the assembly until it locks in. Replace and tighten the locking ring.

13. Now it is time to replace and reconnect everything in the opposite order you disconnected them in. If the tank is in the correct position and there is nothing obstructing it (the plugs tend to get caught between the tank and the body and prevent the tank from seating correctly) then the straps should fit back easily.

14. Once you are sure everything has been reconnected (and don't forget the fill tube hose) put at least 10 gallons of gas in the tank before attempting to start the car.

15. Reconnect the battery post and start the car.

GOOD LUCK!!!

First, You have to relieve the fuel pressure, and then siphon all of the fuel out. to siphon, you need to remove the fuel filler neck. after the neck is removed, and while the tank is still bolted to the car, insert a siphon into the small rubber hose that connected the neck to the tank and siphon the fuel. you have to do that because the filler neck is very long and all of the siphons that i used did not have a hose long enough the reach down the neck and into the tank.

drop the tank by removing the two straps that hold it on...not an easy proceedure done alone, use a jack with a piece of wood large enough to support the tank. also use a helper if available...it's a large tank and it awkwardly shaped.

disconnect all fuel lines, and be prepared to use new plastic clips that hold the lines on.

disconnect fuel vapor valve hose from vapor valve on top of tank

****be carefull removing that hose,**** the valve will brake off at the lip and...that part has been discontinued by ford, you will have to go to a junkyard to replace it if you break it.

remove the top circular hold down ring that holds the pump in. Use brass tools so as not to cause a spark.

remove the pump, and rubber gasket that surrounds the hole.

install new rubber gasket around pump opening with new one and fresh grease to hold it in. a new pump should come with a new rubber gasket, and an auto parts shop will tell you what type of grease to use on it.

install new pump and circular hold down ring.

reconnect all lines,

re-install tank

re-connect fuel filler neck and rubber hoses that connect filler neck tube to tank. you'll probably have to use new hoses.

again...not easy to do alone, a jack is needed, and a helper is great!

Steve phx AZ

its in the gas tank. you have to drop the tank to access it.

the pump is inside the gas tank so you need to drop the tank and replace the pump.

It is inside the fuel tank. Remove the tank and you see a large round ring at the top. Open the rang and lift out the pump.

Taurus / Sable, and most Ford fuel pumps are inside the gas tank.

See "Related Questions" below

The Ford branded pump lists for over $300 - aftermarket brands run ~ $125-200 here (jan 2009). The labor in the book is 2 hours.

Prices range from $100 - $140 - $200 - $232 (Motorcraft brand!).

It is in the fuel tank. You will have to jack up the rear as high as you can , and secure on jack stands. You will need some help, and hopefully the tank is nearly empty, otherwise you are in for a battle.

The tank is held is with two long straps. Also there is a filler neck and vent hose at the rear of the tank that will have to be disconnected. The tank will have to be lowered and removed. I recommend some help and a good floor jack, with a piece of plywood between the jack and the tank.

Lower the tank slowly while disconnecting fuel lines and wires as they become visible.

Once the tank is removed, you can remove the fuel pump lock ring on top of the tank. It screws off counterclockwise, but it is stubborn. I use a hammer and a big flat screwdriver to get it loose. From there it is self-explanatory. Replace the pump, and reassemble.

See "Related Links" for Autozone's free, online Chilton's Service Manual illustrated procedures for removing the gas tank. This should be an excellent guide even for the later models.

There is also a link to the same repair guide with information on the fuel pump itself. Again, the information should be very applicable to the different model years (a pump is a pump is a pump?)

NOTE: Autozone now requires free registration to access the repair guides. More than worth the extra effort for these photo/illustrated instructions.

Drain the fuel out of the tank, and then drop the tank. Fuel pump is located inside of fuel tank.

See "Related Questions" below for a write-up on the same procedures for a 2000+ Taurus - much of it applies well to the Windstar

It is in the gas tank. Fuel tank must be removed to replace it.

just connect all hoses on fuel tank, drain fuel if there a lot fuel in tank, lower fuel tank by removing the 2 bolts on fuel tank straps you will need special fuel line remover tool to remove fuel lines from fuel pump and just connect wire connector on fuel pump clean off all dirt by fuel pump remove lock ring pull fuel pump out

The fuel pump is located in the fuel tank. To access it you must drop the tank.

not necessarily most people do but i have cut a hole through the truck or floor if you want to just be very careful if you cut it in the right spot it only has to be a few inches bigger than the pump

On most fuel injected vehicles (maybe all) there are two fuel pumps. The low pressure / high volume pump is in the tank. The high pressure pump that serves the injector manifold is usually mounted on the frame in the engine compartment. The pump you hear at start-up is the one in the tank. Carl

See "Related Questions" below for more

The fuel pump inertia switch for a 1998 Ford Windstar is located behind the trim panel by the driver's left foot by the hood release (according to the owners manual)

I just reset mine, and can confirm that the above answer is correct. The switch is just below the hood release. There will be a finger sized hole, accessible vertically. Very easy to see and get to.

The switch is located inside the jack storage compartment found at the right rear corner of the vehicle. Remove the cover and it is behind the thin "foam" covering inside the compartment towards the rear of the vehicle.

It has a red button on the top of the switch, make sure the button is fully depressed. If it is and the vehicle still won't start check fuel pressure at the rail (there is a port on the rail which is under the hood on the engine) with a fuel pressure gauge. If the pressure is ok (about 30 psi) the problem is most likely not fuel system related.

The emergency fuel pump cutoff switch, also known as the inertia switch, cuts power to the fuel pump in the event of an accident - even a slow speed one - any sudden "jolt" can trigger the switch.

Visit my auto blog at http:/free-auto-repair-advice.blogspot.com In the back, with the hatch open, take off the access cover to the jack (it's on the right side, behind the rear seat). If you snake your finger around the front of the opening, you should feel the reset switch, That's where it is on my '95, and since Ford isn't known for changing their cars much from one decade to the next, I'd presume that's where yours is.

The button is in the jack compartment in the back...passenger side. Its a red button. If it is not 'triggered' check the fuse under the hood to make sure it is not bad.

The button is in the jack compartment in the back...passenger side. Its a red button. If it is not 'triggered' check the fuse under the hood to make sure it is not bad. My fuel reset bottom is located under the hood release handle. Look at the sticker under your hood. The location will be told in text

Behind the service panel on the right side of the cargo area ( according to the owners

manual )