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Depending on the car model let's say a Mazda mx6 and ford probe have the same engine and trans configurations from yrs 93-97 plus suspension components brakes fuel tanks also the mx3 has the same motor but only in v6 form some millenias also have some compatible motor n trans configurations
no. it doesnt. in 1st gens they used a 2.2 I4, a 2.2 I4 Turbo and a 3.0 V6. Second gens are 2.0 I4 and a 2.5 V6 DOHC. hope this helps!
OBD1 code 41 = solenoid valve, vehicle speed control
Just did this on my daughter's Probe yesterday. There are 2 bolts that hold the unit in place. Remove these 2 bolts and pull the entire unit free. The piston in the unit will have to be rotated like a screw or bolt with some pliers so that you can adjust the clearance for the new, thicker pads. Once you have screwed the piston in enough, simply put the new pads in place and re=assemble in reverse order of dis-assemble. Be sure to tighten the bolts well. Check fluid level and take it for a test drive to check for proper function.
i use 89 oct
first how cold is cold?? winter -30 or just not started at 0 degrees?? plug it in and go from there. lighter oil mabey??
ACEAnsweralot of ford probes have intermitant starting problems, if you look on the internet for this you will see many people have tried many different things from cheap to expensive. I have found that when my 97 probe doesn't start all i have to do is wiggle any electrical connectors i see ( i have not pin pointed which one)the car will then start. have read people have had to replace electrical harness, but my ways alot easier, for now
Well I had this same problem with our 89 Probe GL. There are multiple temp sensors in the engine which I was afraid was the problem with ours but I found it was an oxygen sensor which had a broken retaining clip. When I fastened it on with a rubber band it quit running badly and not starting in cold weather. Just yesterday when checking out fuses for another issue (headlights) I found that there is a manual "switch" for a fuse under there. One is labeled "warm weather" and the other "cold weather". Since I never knew this was there and it is now warm out, I haven't had the chance it see how it will improve its operation yet. But I intend to find out when I have the chance. Maybe that will work as well for you.
It's not overly difficult as long as you have the right tools and the Repair Manual.. Learn from my mistakes and LABEL EVERYTHING... Use a camera, colored tape, plastic containers, or whatever it takes to make sure you put everything back the same way it came off.
you can't repair one you would have to buy a new one and put it on
From what I understand is the boost sensor (little black box with a vac line and a 3 wire connector on it 96 pgt) monitors air pressure inside the intake manifold in order to for the computer to adjust for correct air/fuel ratios. The boost sensor is one of many sensors in the car that work together to deliver the most efficient fuel delivery.
Connect a jumper wire between the tbs terminal and ground terminal in square dtc box on left front fender apron ,the box is marked diags let the lite on the dash blink all the codes then push brake pedal ten times this is with the key on engine off. That will clear the codes except the hard ones that you must fix to clear. Try unhooking the battery for a few minutes.
look in the fuse panel inside the engine compartment there should be a white plastic piece on top of it.take that off ans you should see it i think it s a 50 amp cant remember.
The main fuse on the Probe is a 100amp fuse.
If it's stuck.......what the hell do you do???
Its not stuck, but screwed in on the lower side of box housing. There are flip up flaps u can access.
Oil on the outside of the spark plug is normally a sign of a leaking valve cover gasket. Oil on the spark plug electrode, (plug must be removed to see this oil), is normally a sign of a broken or worn piston ring. A compression test will verify if a ring is worn or broken.
the Inertia Fuel Shutoff Switch is located in the trunk. It is mounted under the luggage compartment floor cover at the back of the LH rear cargo storage compartment. The reset button must be pushed to reeet the IFS once it has been triggered. Basically it is behind the rear wheel well under the trunk mat close to the rear quarter panel. Good luck. Gus
Hey JustinThe idle speed is controled by the ecm and is not adjustable. Goodluck, Joe
You can adjust the idle air screw. Get a haynes manual it will show you how
buy a new distributor cap and rotor. Unscrew the distributor cap (on the drivers side of the engine block), take note how the existing rotor is sitting, remove it, and place the new rotor in the same position. Put on the distributor cap and screw it into place... very simple job. thats how you change the rotor......he asked about the distributor....try again.
there located in the rear hub....take of tire, remove the brake assembly and then remove the wheel hub...you will then see it behind the hub(it has a flat end and a chrome color.) removal is simple after doing all that.
The thermostat is located on the right side of the engine looking in, in between the intake manifold and the air filter box, underneath the wiring. This is in a 1994 Ford Probe GT 6 cylinder.
To replace the thermostat, you really need to remove the intake manifold and this can be up to two or three hours work alone, even for a qualified mechanic.
first you should disconnect the negative battery cable if you have an air bag equipped probe. wait for two minutes, then on your dash, there are some dash retainer screws which need to be removed, there should be 2 abouve the cluster on the trim piece, and some have 1-3 underneath the steering column. after that, remove the 4 screws holding the gauge in, pull it out, then remove the wiring harness, not the wires from the harness. then take the cluster to a well lit are and remove the screws holding the plastic cover on. if you have screws holding the gauges in place, remove those as well. you may need to remove the needles to get the gauges to fit if you cant slip them over the needles, as for the tachometer needle, temp needle, oil needle and battery needle, you need to either draw a picture of where they are or take a picture of them to place them back later. if you have to remove the needles, only replace the speedometer to 0, and the fuel gauge meter to where it last was when you had the car turned on. after you have the new gauges on, put as much back together as possible, and take the cluster back to the car with the pastic cover off. hook the wiring harnesses up to the cluster and hook the negative cable back to the battery. turn on your car and wait about a minute or so, then replace all other needles to the position where they were when you took the picture of them. turn off the car and remove the negative battery cable, wait another two minutes. hook up the wiring to your parking lights as this is the best place to draw power. and hook the ground to a secured ground suck as the fender or something metal on the body/chassis. replace the plastic cover and replace the cluster in the dash. attach all screws to reassemble the dash. finito. Good luck.
my recomendation is pull distributer cap and turn over the engine look to see that your rotor button is spinning, if its not spinning check you timing belt, but if it is spinning check on replacement of your coil pack and/or your entire distributer once all else fails...
My Timing belt is brand new and it is in perfect time...
THIS IS NOT AN ANSWER IT IS THE STORY BEHIND THE QUESTION
I bought the car after it had set for a year or so, put on new timing belt and water pump, car ran great for two days then suddenly when I hit 4500rpm my tach flip out and the car died. I checked for spark and got nothing. I double checked timingbelt, replaced the Crankshaft position sensor and the distributor.......I'm Lost
Have you tried resetting the Fuel Pump Cut Off switch in the left rear corner of your trunk? Is the "Fuel Cut-Off" lamp illumated on the dash when you try to start? This is a perplexing problem...seems like as the cars age and the distributors begin to wear down they send to much current to the immobilizer units in the cars(these trip the Fuel Cut-off Switch in the trunk). The excess current evidently erode or overheats the soldering on the chip board of the immobilizer unit, thus, triggering the fuel cut-off switch to activate.
All of that happening has eventually caused my probe to fail to start at all now...the fuel pump is not pumping and there is no spark being sent to the plugs...all a result of the immobilizer believing it has a problem.
The one other item it can be is a DOCUMENTED problem in Ford's Technical Service Bulletins where Ford admits there is a problem with corrosion on the wires for the immobilizer & fuel cut-off switch link.
I am in the middle of trying to fix mine. Good luck.
Hey buddy Why don,t u check your fuses take a ohm meter Check the resistance of Primary Wire or secondary wire. If there is no current in the primary wire that means there is problem with your Iginition relay change your relay u don,t need to reset your fuel system just change your relay that u can find when you wil pop the hood it should be green color. I think in Canadian it would cost u 106 try that hit me back
Ok I would say do a paperclip diagnostic on it it will throw you codes to check my probe threw me the code for my crank shaft postioning sensor and also could be the distributor could have a bad ignition module on it if the 94 is the same as the 93 which i think it is moisture gets in from teperature changes hot to cold ect... use a paperclip from your ten pin to your ground pin on your diagnostic block located by your battery hope this could help ive been thru it all with mine and found myself turning in distributor after distributor on warranty to fix my problem im still looking to find out if there is anyway to prevent the moisture from getting into the distributor
I have an 89 Ford Probe. I recently had to replace the alternator. The manual says to drop the exhuast, but I could not do that because of rust etc. I ended up removing both stabilizer bar ends, then rotationg the stabilizer bar out of the way to just barely sneak the alternator through. You will probably have to replace the stabilizer bar ends, they rust quickly and will probably break when you attempt to remove them, but they are cheap. Good luck! NO! there is a easier way take off the driver side front wheel and take the pin out of the stearing arm and move it to the side. Then You will have to take off the plastic wheel well. The alternator will look like it will not fit but it will just move it around until you get it out but be carefull make sure you tighten the nut to the stearing arm back on very tight and put the pin back in it. That is how I did it. No droping the exaust or motor mounts. Took me about half hour to do it. Good Luck
It really isn't hard but you need direction. Get a manual on your car from AUTOBOOKSONLINE.COM
Jack up the car and place jack stands under a solid area Peen the safety lock on the axle nut with a hammer an chiesel Remove the axle nut with a strong impact gun and a 1 1/4" socket Remove the brake caliper & hang it with a tie wrap Remove the brake shoe housing Remove tie rod from spindle Remove the ABS wire harness clip in strut Remove the 2 strut bolts with a 17mm socket and wrenches Remove lower ball joint locking bolt Swing down spindle assembly and remove axle assembly from outer splines Knock out axe from transmission side
Note: If axle is seized in hub, spindle assemble must be removed with axle attached and then heated and removed.
go here www.performaceprobe.com you'll find all you need to know there.
The flasher unit is located up and behind the fuse box. It is black with a socket that has @ 10 wires into it.
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