It has radically reduced the emmissions given off from automobiles. Too bad the big vehicles aren't as closely scrutinized yet.
It is absolutly amazing. From a seminar recently, I understand that leaving the fuel cap off will release more hydrocarbons than from the exhaust out the tail pipe.
With the addition of flex fuel, electric, propane, hydrogen, bio-diesel, and Hybrid cars the outlook is better.
I have found that since the advent of OBDII the number of problems that can occur is astronomicle. I have a pre-OBDII and an OBDII vehicles,and by comparison (Both being Fords) the OBDII has suffered more problems (From very low MPG to extremely bad performance issues not able to be corrected by Ford engineers themselves). At any given time the dealerships claim it is in the computer program to which they can not change(Poor MAF sensor performance,Timing issues)they just don't seem very knowledgeable about what they are doing or care about the matter (You already bought it tough luck is the usual answer).But their resolve to the delema was to go online and purchase a chip for socket J2 on the computer,I asked if the vehicle does not get 21M.P.G. like the manufacturer states than to me there must be a problem. After the techs laughed they stated that there is no possible way for that vehicle with that program to attain that fuel economy.It was stated that 18 M.P.G was the best I'd ever see. Not accepting this from Ford I set out on a little adventure, and discovered their big flaw. It was the catalytic converters, and by having four of them would be a strain on any engine. So we decided to test our theory,and removed the larger segments of converters (2 of them). Created a filler pipe to cover the distance, and re-inserted the O2 sensor as to not throw a code. Discovery was the fuel economy went from 18 M.P.G. to 26 M.P.G. This was a very large jump in fuel economy. To test this out I had to do it several times on over the road tests, and the results came out to within a few tenths of a M.P.G. of each other. So, in removing the technology and applying some old fashioned know how we were able to make the vehicle perform better and be more economical than the manufacturer could. (And by the way Ford blames the E.P.A. for their bad designs). JIM
Headache Nausea Sleepy Dizzy Death All from carbon monoxide poisoning
White smoke is coolant entering the combustion chamber. You have a blown head gasket. STOP driving this car immediately or you will destroy this engine. The head gasket must be replaced.
An oil catch can is used in turbo applications, or high-performance race applications where excessive blow-by (leakage past the piston rings) of air and fuel vapor occurs. This creates a positive pressure in the crankcase. Engine manufactures have placed a valve on the engine block which releases this pressure. This valve is known as a PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation) valve. During engine operation, blow-by gases, as well as oil mist from the rotating components of the engine, pass through the PCV valve and are routed back into the intake for the engine to burn off. However, some of the oil mist and other products settle along the engine intake and over time form a "gunk." The oil catch can collects the oil mist and condenses the fuel vapors while allowing "cleaner" gases to be passed back into the intake. Typically the blow-by gasses are passed through a wire mesh, which give the vapor droplets something to adhere to. Since the oil catch cans condense the vapor portion of the gasses, they will need to be drained periodically of all the oil, fuel and other contaminants.
Assume you mean that it's burning oil. Typically that's because of poor maintenance or abuse.
White smoke indicates coolant entering the combustion chamber. Normally caused by a blown head gasket or cracked head. Blue smoke is oil burning, and black smoke is an overly rich fuel/air mixture.IFit's black smoke (too much fuel) it can be caused by a sticking injector, faulty sensor or plugged air filter.
Note that if coolant is entering the combustion chamber there will be other indicators, such as serious misfiring and/or coolant will be blown from the water jacket. Without those indicators you are probably not getting water in the combustion chamber
Due to E.P.A regulations all modern cars must fall into a certain range. There is no particular vehicle that is allowed more or less per say.
Pre-92 non-obd2 equipped vehicles will have higher emissions than obd2 or CAN complaint equipped vehicles.
Race vehicles are not required to have catalytic converters equipped, and as a result will have higher emissions.
Epa link for fuel standards for passenger vehicles.
Check your oil,- is it foamy?
Examine your coolant. Does it smell like oil?
Is the smoke sweet smelling?
Knocking has nothing to do with a head gasket, sounds like you have multiple engine issues to me.
And finally...if changing a head gasket is simple, why does it cost so much? because if you don't work on cars all the time it is most definitely not simple and includes timing belt removal usually.
Overheating can cause knocking. then refer to the above....
Your best bet is to replace your motor because usually the knocking noise is caused by a spun bearing which would cost a lot to repair.
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The white smoke is from a blown headgasket, your coolant is leaking into one or more cylinders and that's actually steam that you see coming from your tailpipe.
When this happens, your coolant level drops (because it's pumping it out the tailpipe), your car overheats, and of course it will knock as it overheats. An overheated car is sluggish, as well.
Another bad thing that occurs by driving a car with this problem is that the coolant is washing the oil off your cylinder walls and your rings will tear up your cylinder walls as they self-destruct.
Head gasket replacement is not an easy fix nor is it cheap, and usually you'll need to get the head machined to make it perfectly straight again - heads warp from overheating. A good mechanic can do a head gasket replacement in a few hours.
This soudns like engine failure. Probably blew head gasket and ruined the engine due to it being run with bad head gasket too long.
You can find a god used engine with lower miles for around 800 at the most. usually more around 500 or 600 at most yards if you call around.
Labor to replace an engine we charge about 300 to 400 usually.
The car may not be worth doing this with however, some are not.
Most are though, if clean straight and drove fine.
If your vehicle has a Diesel engine, then you may just be looking at 'fuel starvation'! All of the above are to a degree correct - but unlike Petrol engines, Diesel engines are also known to emit white smoke through the exhaust system when fuel delivery to the cylinders is restricted and give off the same appearance as a head-gasket problem.
This could also cause 'sluggishness' or lack of power, bad starting or non-starting and also a low type knocking noise.
Change the filter and check that the fuel lines are not clogged or restricted; you could even possibly run your own fuel supply line from a can to check this part out if it's easier for you!
Start the engine and rev it at about 3,000 rpm for a few minutes or take it for a short drive to see if it still loses power, if it still does then assuming all has been changed and cleaned, you might look to see if there is something in the fuel tank that could be blocking the supply pipe!
You're burning oil. either your piston seals are not working or you have other seals that have gone bad resulting in oil entering the combustion chamber.
If it didn't have emissions controls from the factory you don't have to pass any emissions test, check with your state as some are different, especially California.
Perhaps this may help you in your search for causes. A high hydrocarbon reading is usually unburnt fuel. If the CO reading and the NOx readings are below the limit then look towards an ignition problem as being the most likely culprit. As the prior answer suggested, start checking items and begin with the basics. Year, make model, engine size, options, symptoms etc will help you get a more accurate answer next time.
Check the plugs first, all of them! One bad plug will give you a miss and everytime the car misfires unburnt gas goes into the cylinder and out the exhaust which raises the HC. Same goes for the wires (check resistance with a multimeter) check the distributor cap & rotor (if applicable) for cracks, corrosion or burnt areas. Might want to do an injector service (if applicable), a sticky injector might put fuel in at times when its not supposed to and up goes the HC. If the check engine light is on 1st thing to do is pull some codes and this will give you some direction. Codes can be pulled manually by using the diagnostic connector or a scanner.
High hydrocarbon levels are also seen with a much too lean mixture. If you are looking at an older carburated car, check this first. A lean mixture will not burn completely, and unburned mix goed out the tailpipe. An overly rich mixture burns fine, but to carbon monoxide, not dioxide. So a rich mixture will fail on CO, not HC. This is the reason for the vacuum hose fix - it cuts down the amount of air entering the engine, while leaving the fuel the same ( or increasing it a little if the leaks are really bad ). This said, the ignition system is also suspect, as any misfire will increase HC. So, check your vacuum hoses (lightly spray connections w/ carb cleaner, an RPM increase means a leak), change your plugs and wires if they're more than a year old, and richen the mixture a hair if this adjustment is available.
I had to replace a lot of vacume lines to get mine to pass. It also could be o2 sensor, bad spark plugs, rich idle(too much gas), bad spark plug wires, bad injectors(or carburetor), bad ignition coil/cap/rotor(weak spark), bad catalytic converter/clogged muffler, exhaust leak, etc.
Stuck or broken oil rings can cause blue smoke.
If you are having a lot of white smoke all the time the car runs then check for coolant mixing in with the oil,look for water in the oil when you check the oil or milky brown oil. This produces a white "steam" that is very thick to come out of the exhaust. If your engine temp. gauge is very high and over heats you probably have a blown head gasket. If it has a bluish tint look it may be burning oil. Indications might be how much oil is currently in the car i.e too much oil, or if there is a leak in the line you may be adding a bunch of oil over a short time. If it is only when you first start the car and the engine is cold, then it may be that your valve seals are bad and need replacing. Hope this might help or at least give you some ideas...AnswerIt's coolant. headgasket, cracked or warped head, intake manifold or gasket, or cracked block are your sources. Take it to a care car service to have it checked AnswerAre you sure the smoke is white or is it a light blueish color start the car and have someone stand in a position to see the tail pipe and see if much water comes out with the smoke if it does and you have been running low on antifreeze i would say a head gasket if no water and not low on anti freeze look at worn valves or valve seals or worn rings good bet on these two items good luck AnswerBurning oil in the fuel would cause black smoke so it definitely has nothing to do with that. White smoke can be caused by water in the combustion camber or unburned fuel. If you've be having bad gas mileage you probably have a problem with your fuel or ignition system or timing. You can usually smell the fuel in your exaust when this happens. If you smell no fuel and you've had no change in fuel economy check for water like one of the previous posts said. AnswerTry the changing PCV, it work for me when white smoke(rock concert-like) would come out of the exhaust every time the car was turned on. That was the only time the white smoke would come out in my case. If it is a constant white smoke emitted from the exhaust, especially while driving, it could be something else. AnswerOne thing that I noticed, is that when valve seals get some years on them, a little bit of white smoke can emitted from the tail pipe when you first start it up or when you set at a stop light idling. But usually not that much smoke. Old valves could be causing you to run rich. AnswerSomehow water has or is being burned,check coolant level and temp if you have temp light put a guage in if coolant low there is your problem if not check egr valve and pcv valve also check oil level if high and milky there is high possibility that you have blown head gasket and or block may be cracked allowing oil to get into the oil pan. Answeri think it would be a blown head gasket or blown head
Most likely the heater core is leaking. If there is also water on the floor and an antifreeze smell in the passenger compartment, those are also signs of a cracked heater core. Also, GET THAT TEMP GAUGE FIXED!!! You could be overheating and not even know it. Once the motor overheats, you're risking a blown head gasket, a VERY EXPENSIVE repair, or even worse, a blown engine. If steam is coming out of the vents it is very possible the motor is overheating. You need two repairs, your heater core and your temperature gauge.
My heater core was replaced since it had a hole in it. The blower was also replaced but with a used one. The guage is now working and so far, no more white smoke. Heater does not get hot though and the blower motor is very loud. Hey, ya gotta laugh a little...from one thing to another. I suppose the worse thing is over. Thank the Lord though I did not have a new car since the guy that worked on it did a number on my dash.
Symptom: on a 2000 Ford Contour, white smoke came through the vents and the smeel was acrid. We switched the car off. A few hours later, the car was fine, no more smoke, but the heater didn't work on one speed setting.
Solution: there is a resistor block which controls the blower speed in the ducting. When one of the resistors goes, white smoke is fed dirrectly up to the vents. Replacement is easy (admittedly while doing a head stand in the passenger footwell) and fairly cheap.
Suggestion: many other cars will have a similar layout. Check this out before investing in a new heater core...
I am no mechanic but with my problems with my car all everybody told me is there are several things you can do to stop it:
Get a fuel injection flush.
You have a lot of carbon build-up, try getting your car on the open highway. What you will be doing is blowing all the old carbon out and it should run better after that.
Your car might be getting too much gas at idle, OR your oil pump isn't working correctly. Which means the pump is putting too much oil to the cylinders when you idle.
Worn Valve guides (seals) cause an engine to smoke at idle, when the vacuum is strong enough to pull oil past the worn seals. Generally, the smoke will be bluish and will billow out when taking off after idling. I also have the same problem & I think it's my oil rings
Well unfortunately you can count on it meaning you'll have to get your wallet ready for a workout. Blue smoke could indicate a few different things I guess. However it is my own experiences that tell me what is happening is your motor oil is leaking past your piston rings and getting into the engine cylinder and mixing with your fuel and ultimately burning along with the gas. That leakage is getting compressed with the gasoline in the combustion chamber and the burned oil makes the blue smoke. Your car probably also doesn't have as much power as it used to and is probably running rather rough too. If it isn't yet it wont be long and it will evetually cause the oil to break down loseing its viscocity and not properly lubricateing the pistons. Because what is also happening is some of the gas is leaking past those rings too in the opposite direction and mixing with the oil in your crankcase and thinning it out. When this happens the engine will overheat from excessive friction and it will seize.
They used to do ring and valve jobs to fix the problem. But that is "old school" and we now live in a disposable society and most every shop around will recommend a newly rebuilt engine. With shop rates being as much as $125 an hour, the rebuilt motor is much more cost effective. I'm sorry to be the messenger of the bad news.
This means that you should just sell your car while you can, so that you don' t get stuck with it.
Most EGR valves must be replaced with factory dealer parts in order to pass state emissions. Aftermarket valves will not pass the test. Keep this in mind when you finally replace it. Sorry I cannot give you details on how to do it.
The typical EGR valve can be cleaned and possibly repaired in some cases. Carbon build up can be scraped and blown out with compressed air.A pinhole in the rubber diaphragm (a common problem)can be fixed using high temperature silicone sealant. Locate the hole with soapy water while blowing into vacuum hose. Clean area with alcohol and let dry. Apply silicone sealant with a toothpick to the hole while sucking on the vacuum hose to draw the sealant into the hole. Let dry overnight. Such a repair can last many years and pass SMOG testing easily, saving the owner hundreds of dollars for parts and labor.
Don't want to doubt you, but I'd definitely check to make sure it feels lightly oily or even soak some a few drops into a paper towel and see if it ignited (careful of course). Assume it's not running rough / missing occasional firings, right?
This can also be caused by a defective fuel pressure regulator. (Ford Ranger)
Short answer: YES!
Longer answer: The EGR valve is designed to recirculate some exhaust gas into the intake, in order to cool combustion temperatures somewhat. If the combustion temps exceed 1100 degrees (actually common in gasoline engines) then oxides of nitrogen are produced. these gases are what we see as visible smog. If the EGR valve fails, it can lead to very high exhaust temps which can gradually melt the insides of the catalytic converter. If a failed EGR is combined with a lean fuel mixture, or over-advanced ignition timing, the melting of the converter happens very quickly.
A product called wenol metal polish works very well for just this thing. It can also remove rust spots as well to a degree. Make sure to clean it well with soap and water first and use a thick terry cloth towel, as you can scratch the surface otherwise. <a href="http://www.wenol.com/">wenol homepage</a>
you should find the egr in the front of the motor under the throlltle , two screws hold it in place , small hands and a univeral and off it comes . to find what yours looks like you can search eBay and see a pix or in your browser type in egr and engine size . it was harder to get to egr then anything no need to remove housing , if on AOL email me and i can offer a mechanic offering free repair advice and he helped us. be sure to clean port behind egr with ice pick and vaccumm it will or maybe blocked with black carbon build up . we used a wrech and it had a twisting ten mm ? on it and used an extention on it to gain access to it. we did remove air intake and one hose for ease
Consider this a warning to anyone who is considering doing this!
In the US it is a Federal offense to remove any part of the emissions system!
If you are caught, as the vehicle's owner, you could face as much as $10,000 in fines.
AND anyone who does the work or helps (i.e. the mechanic, a friend, whoever) also faces up to $10,000 in fines.
Please be aware that there is ALSO a $10,000 reward for anyone who turns in someone who has removed or altered an emissions system - owner or mechanic.
Even if you live in an area where emissions testing is not required, you are not exempt from this regulation and you will still run the risk of being caught.
That is an awfully steep fine, IMO. I'd think twice before proceeding.
In any case you could at least check into the laws regarding this, in case the data I was given was wrong. But I had an ASE Master Technician tell me this! It's part of his job to stay on top of Federal and local regs.
If you want to repair your own emissions system, be careful and consider this first: Unless you can weld, and weld well, go ahead and let a professional do anything that has to do with the emissions/exhaust system. While it is possible to go to autozone and buy your own catalytic converter etc and put it on, it takes a lot of time unless you have the entire system in one piece. I recently replaced my exhaust from the catalytic converter back (the converter was still good), it passed but I had to piece together a exhaust system and it was the biggest ordeal ever. Stay away from Exhaust repairs if you can help it. They are tough!
Having a CRACKED head will make WHITE smoke IF U didn't have the head MAGNA-FLUXED. White smoke is steam. if it doesnt quit after awhile Id say that there is a leak in the head gasket between one of the coolent passages and a cylinder. this will let water into the cylinder which is turned into steam during combustion then exausted out the tail pipe. just to clear up something: Magnafluxing will not prevent cracks, it is a process used to detect them. This should be done by a machine shop. the new gasket is obviously faulty, or the head is cracked. I would guess that its the gasket. The head may not have been torqued properly. Follow a Chiltons or similar repair manual very closely when installing a head. If this is immediately after getting it fixed, you have to give it some time to work all that coolant out of the exhaust system. If it still is blowing steam after a few miles, then probably you have another blown headgasket or a cracked head that should have been addressed on the first head gasket replacement. Some shops have been known to not verify that the head isn't warped or cracked, and if it is, the new head gasket will blow immediately. If you had it at a shop the first time, take it back to them and have them fix it right this time - remember, though, not all mechanics are created equal and if they don't make things right you should take this to a better shop. A good shop will be embarassed by such a rookie mistake and take care of you. It is also possible that the head is warped (repair by machining) or that the intake gasket is or was also leaking or warped. Warpage typically only occurs if serious overheating occurred or sometimes if the wrong torque sequence was used during installation.
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