I cleaned one once,fully expecting to have to buy a new one, with a very fine wire brush and or steel wool and a little wax and grease remover on a rag. Ididn'thave to buy a new one. the check engine light went out and it ran fine. Hope this helps.
The 85 S-10 is a 2.5 or a 2.8L V-6 and the 700R4 beind them -WILL NOT- bolt up to a 350 V-8. They are what is known as a 60 degree block and the 350 is a 90 degree block. The only way you could use it is to use the 85 engine with it and I have doughts you would want either of those dogs in your Silverado. You will need a 4L60 turbo, later model 4L60E Turbo, or a late 80's 700R4 from off of the back of a 4.3 or 350 engine. The 4.3 V-6 is the same as a 350 so a 4.3L powered model S-10 V-6 tranny will work, but you really do not want a 4.3L tranny behind a 350 engine. But you must have at least a 4.3L V-6 engine for the turbo to work on a 350 V-8. The 85 4X4 S-10 Blazer did not have the 4.3L. The 4.3L was first avaiable in the 88 year model. 86 and 87 had the 2.8L with EFI as base power. Your 85 donar could also be a 2.5L btw. Neither will fit the rear of a 350 V-8. If you are not already Over drive don't worry about it. The OD is in the converter so if there is no wiring to the tranny it's NOX-NIX. If it is OD you will need the the OD 700R4. A 4L60E will work if you know to wire it or know someone who can. I feel perty sure your 88 is already a factory OD.
If the S10 transmission was of the 2 wheel drive type you could swap them...
6 cyl has 265-280
Next to the battery on the passenger side. Gotta reach down a little for it. Took me a while to find it..
It is on the top of the firewall on the passenger side.
Long bed is 96"
Standard bed is 78"
Short bed is 69"
Tax return gives u $100000
Written by Ray Ozzie, the author of Lotus Notes, now Chief Architect at Microsoft, you could call it version 2 of Lotus Notes and it's opposite in many ways. It is a more powerful, collaboration tool, but also easy to install, needs no servers or IT administration, and is cost effective for even the smallest user in a small town with nothing more than a phone / internet line.
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On all fuel injection motors from the early 90's with fuel injection the fuel pump is located inside the gas tank. Before you try and pull the fuel pump out you need to relieve the presure in the lines. Please use caution. A good repair manual will tell you how to do this job the right way.
IF you remove the passenger side turn signal you will see where the ac line enters the bottom of the condenser. Remove that line and reach down with a pair of needle nose pliers, and gently persuade it out. You will probably have to remove the whole grill to make thing easy.
Dist. cap corroded, plug wire bad, spark plug fouled, pushrod bent, valve bent, and last but not least, head gasket.Answeralso if you are misfiring on a cylinder your rocker arms my be to tight or not tight enough and youll know if the arent tight enough(they will rattle)
Answer The same thing happened to me, the cause is faulty intake manifold gaskets the slip down out of place allowing it to suck air in the top and oil in the bottom. If you check your plug it will be fowled black from oil consumption. I had new after market reinforced gaskets put in and the problem is resolved.AnswerIf you engine light comes on and flashes it could be one of your injectors have a small hole in it and could cause a misfire
A defective fuel injector can also cause the problem
As for the second answer, i agree. My buddy who don't know much about engines rebuilt an engine and we couldn't figure out why it wouldn't start and after checking every possible thing we checked the rockers and he had them way too tight. loosened them up started right up.
my shifter lever just broke off in my hand. It was somewhat still attached so I managed to get it back into park(Lucky). Then I took off the bottom part of the steering column, and then the bottom part of the dash to see what was going on. It broke where the mechanism attaches to the inside of the steering column. One screw actually had snapped. I then took off the top part of the dash and then the top part of the steering column so I could access the mechanism more easily. From there you can access and remove the mechanism. Quite a few snap-in parts along the way that a small screwdriver can take care of. It is kind of a pain in the butt, and I still need to find out how one part of the mechanism detaches from the actual shifting cable. I ordered the part so when it comes I hope I will be able to figure out the rest. Hope that helps a little.
225/75/15 This would depend upon the year of your truck as well.I have a 95 silverado ext cab , 4 x 4 with 16 in. wheels.I believe my size our 235/65/16
295hp and 305ftlbs
Drivers side, oil pan is concaved and the filter is at the top against the engine.
I did this 6hours ago on my truck, here is a breakdown of what i did...
i unhooked an approx 3inch long wiring connector from the steering column to get a better view.
then i took a small flat head screwdriver and jammed it into the outside rim of the retaining clip. once it loosened up a little i used a pair of needle nose pliers to get it off. it was fairly sturdy so don't be too nervous about breaking/bending it.
If your not used to working with antilock/traction control vehicles, you may want to leave this job to a professional. There are some things that you need to be aware of before proceeding with the job. But, if you decide to go on with this, You may want to go to a car parts store, or book store, and get a repair manual for your car. They cost about $16.00 Or, go to a Public Library.
REAR DRUMS - not 2000 should have these
The brake pads can be bad enough, if you need to replace the rotors, this is not the average do-it-yourselfer job. Inside the brake drums are a brake shoe assembly for the parking brake. These can be a real challenge. Don't be surprised if you need to make a couple trips to the part store on this one. Chevy's rear brake listing can vary. Make sure you know what you have in terms of parts first. You may wnat to remove them and then take in to match up when the parts counterman brings them out.
2)remove caliper bolts, then caliper
3)Remove disc, probably by means of sledge hammer ( the ebrake ring usually gets caught on rotor inner side)
4)clip on a new ebrake ring(pad ) if needed, put on new rotors
5)install new pads bolt it all back up after resetting caliper, via c clamp
don't replace it unless it breaks
Hey Barbara==The linkage has comeloose inside the door. Take the window crank off with a special tool available from the parts store and all of the screws you can find then the retainers around the sides and bottom of the trim pad. The retainers need a special tool also. GoodluckJoe Hello! i have the same problem as she does and....in my case it isn't that the linkage came loose...my linkage is all in tact. It appears to be the latch itself inside the door. I took off the latch and peered in there and both linkages moved with a tug on the INSIDE handle but it wouldn't open. When the door was shut it would open from the outside but not inside. I would presume that the latch that causes the hook to spring up has just been too worn, bent, or out of alignment. I am looking on how to get the door panel off tho :-| and i came across this article. I'm positive i can fix it if i can just get the door panel off.
I drive a tow truck and have done several Volvo trucks, easiest way is to spread open the door with an airbag and use a long rod to reach in and move the lock, takes 30 seconds.
Sounds like a bad brake booster. If you are getting an extended braking distance, you may also want to check for a rear wheel cylinder leak.AnswerYou also might want to check to see if the engine vacuum is low. If the vehicle is newer than '90 or so, it probably has a sensor that determines if the rear wheels are braking. If hydraulic pressure is uneven between front and rear you will usually see a brake indicator light come on. I agree that the vacuum assist may be the culprit, but also make certain that you are getting enough vacuum to the brakes. Low vacuum can be caused by a number of problems, so it may take a little checking. I would recommend a vacuum gauge. They are quite inexpensive and can be picked up at most auto parts stores.
Also check to see if you have a vac. leak at the booster canister where the vac. line plugs into it, if the master cylinder is leaking brake fluid through the rear seal of the spool valve it can enter the power brake booster and destroy the diaphragm seal causing the power brake booster to fail....thus hard as heck brake pedal(meaning you have no vacuumn assist) it's easy to check for a brake fluid leak....just pull the master cylinder mounting bolts off the power brake booster(either 2 or 4 bolts or nuts) and look at the rear side of the master cylinder seal to see if brake fluid is prevalent, also with a light look inside the power brake booster for tell tale signs of brake fluid leakage.
on the dryer on the left hand side of the hood. start with 1 can drive and add no more than 2 cans there are two hoses one small one big it is the big hose you put the freon in.
location and wiring of the horn relay
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