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It is a RPO code for GM full size 4x4 trucks, which usually include stripes and decals, beefier suspension parts, skid plates, larger tires/rims, etc.

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Round With Roller Bearings Around The Metal Ring, Rides Inside Of A Race. Or It Can Be A Pressed On Bearing. Need More Info On What You Are Working On To Be Sure. Newer Cars Have A Pressed In Bearing.

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LTZ is the most luxurious and feature-packed trim level for Chevy vehicles. An LTZ Cruze will have many more features than an LT Cruze.

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ALCOHOL=HIGH COMPRESSION=STARTUP COUNTER-TORQUE

Something to consider is the engine startup counter-torque and the ignition system you're using. You may need a separate ignition switch and starter button. You leave the ignition switch off, spin the engine, and once it's up to speed, you hit the ignition switch. This will allow the starter to spin the engine without the counter-torque. High compression engines and Nitro-methane engines are especially succeptable to startup counter-torque. You may also be able to delay the engine timing until you start the engine, then return it to its' correct timing.

Starter is not disengaging properly..... maybe a bad bendix drive or your ignition switch return spring is weak or you have the wrong flex plate or starter.

The mesh between the pinion gear on the starter and flywheel needs to be checked. You can sometime pry out the starter drive into mesh with a screwdriver. Or you may have to remove the return spring located behind the solenoid, then reinstall the starter on the block. This allows you to pull out the drive to check mesh. The backlash between two of the teeth should be about .020-.030". Shims are available to adjust this. Just make sure the teeth don't clash.

Some aftermarket starters have mounting blocks that are mismachined and will never work right. Some ring gears have been found to be welded onto flexplates off-center. creating a wobble.

Use the remote Ford-type starter solenoid wired to a separate ignition switch. To make this work, the starter motors solenoid has to have a bypass link or wire added from the BAT terminal to the start terminal. This makes the starter hot and only needs power from the remote mounted Ford solenoid to engage.

Just check your timing, you should be able to retard the timing some and this will help. Also what compression ratio are you running in this?

Alcohol burns faster, and does not need the spark set so far ahead like gass does.

If one of the above doesn't fix it, check for a balance problem.. Both flex-plate and balancer. Did you check the run-out on the flex-plate as you accelerated the engine?

I have heard of cranks where the surface isn't square with the c/l on crank.

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there is not one. you push in the left side of it and it will spring open

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1.25

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Feel both heater hoses-IF ONE is hot & NOT the other,then U have a bad heater control valve OR NO Vaccume going 2 the valve.If NO thermostat then the engine won't produce enough heat.IF the blend door aren't operating & stuck on C00l - then no Heat.LAST(not likely) if Impeller on water pump is worn down-not enough water will FLOW.

recommend doing a coolant flush and back flushing the heater core. Most likely it is clogged. If you have used stop leak in the past for a coolant leak than you might as well just put a heater core in, That stuff clogs up the heater cores

Check Thermostat and temperature senson for damage, and if need replace..

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I really doubt the thermostat and temp sensor are bad, it is most likely the heater core is clogged up. Take off both the inlet and outlet hoses and use an air compressor to blow air through it, gunk should spray out (which is causing the no heat problem) and when it warms up outside take off the inlet and outlet hoses (for the heater core) and hook up a garden hose to it and let it flush for about 15 minutes

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Listed on the driver's door post.

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My 2007 HHR has 125,000 miles and has NEVER been to the shop for any mechanical problems whatsoever. It still runs great although sometimes you have to turn it over a couple of times before it starts.

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Captiva

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225/75/15 This would depend upon the year of your truck as well.I have a 95 silverado ext cab , 4 x 4 with 16 in. wheels.I believe my size our 235/65/16

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The warranty starts the day you take delivery, and buy the car. No it doesn't. The warranty starts from the date of registration. So if you ask a dealer to register the car on the 31st March and you don't take delivery until the 15th April, your warranty starts from 31st March.

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Go to your Chevy dealer and ask to see a copy of the TSB.

Otherwise, you will have to pay for it.

You can buy a short term subscription to either of these online services:

http://www.alldatadiy.com/

http://www.eautorepair.net/

Rick

I'm a retired ASE Master/L-1 Technician. I still keep current with the latest automotive technology. Visit my blog for cool articles and TSB's: http://free-auto-repair-advice.blogspot.com

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Yes. The popular thing is to use a 350 crankshaft, and make a 383. You need special spacer type bearings, as there is a journal difference, and I would suggest a 6 inch rod, which will cut down on side loading. And, to make it breath, you will need an aftermarket type head, like DART, or Brodix.

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I believe so..tahts what my dad found in my car..and we're working to fix it...because it will shift once above 4500 rpm..but only because of pressure in the transmission....causeing it to naturally shift as if you we're flooring it.

this one of the best answers ive seen on here hes actually 100% corect in this answer,altough there are other senarios that can create this same condition

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Kevin Will

The actor in the "Chevy's giving more" holiday campaign, from the Chevrolet division of General Motors, is named Kevin Will, says Cristianna Vazquez, a spokeswoman in Detroit. According to the Kevin Will profile on imdb, he has appeared in movies like "The Prestige" and TV series like "The Mentalist," "Big Love" and "Bones."

In the spots, a salesman in a Chevrolet dealership who wears the nametag "Nick" looks and behaves like Santa Claus. In one commercial, in a moment evocative of "Miracle on 34th Street," a woman pulls his beard to determine if it is real. (It is.)

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10 1/2 quarts

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There really isn't much demand for speed parts for the Suzuki 3-cylinder in the Sprint (and later, the Geo Metro), therefore nothing is available. There was a turbocharged version of the Sprint available, although it was very rare when new and is even more so now.

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Depending on what parts are in or on it, around 500 to 550lbs.

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You can find the wiring diagram for the starting/charging circuit in a Haynes manual for this car. You can get one at any local parts store. You can also find wiring diagrams at www.the12volt.com

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The Chevy HHR is a compact car with many great features. It has a split rear seating ability and front seats that flatten to provide for larger cargo needs.

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If the block heater was factory installed (as it was in my GMC truck) the cord is tucked up with a zip tie right by the driver's side front wheel well.

I then re-routed the cord out around my grill, so I could plug in and not crush the cord in the hood.

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Here are complete step-by-step instructions (with photos) on how to remove a door panel:

http://www.ricksfreeautorepairadvice.com/repair-topics/window-power-repair/remove-a-door-panel-from-any-vehicle-without-a-diagram

Here are complete step-by-step instructions (with photos) on how to test a power window motor to determine whether the problem is in the motor/regulator or the switch/wiring

http://www.ricksfreeautorepairadvice.com/repair-topics/window-power-repair/replace-a-power-window-regulator

Hey Chris==This is very hard on some makes as the door panel is hard to remove. After you get it off, you have to remove the motor which is attached to the window linkage which is under spring preasure. There are very sharp edges in the door so be careful. GoodluckJoe

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One key to this design problem is to remember that gears must have a whole number of teeth. It is impossible to roll a gear against another gear that has, say, half, a tooth somewhere among the whole teeth. So gears always have a whole number of teeth.

Another key is that the gear ratio is the ratio of the numbers of teeth on two gears, N1 divided by N2. The result of this division often produces a fraction AND the fraction is often ROUNDED OFF in printed materials. Because of this round-off, you cannot be certain what the actual fraction is. This means that, even when you find whole-number values for N1 and N2, you cannot be certain that they represent the exact numbers.

So, here is how to find the pair of gears from a given gear ratio such as 4.11. First, examine the fraction, 0.11, from the ratio. Find a whole number m such that m times the fractional part of the gear ratio gives another whole number almost exactly? Try m = 2, 3, 4 ... up to 16 or even more until you find a good fit.

For the given problem, 9 x 0.11 = 0.99, which is almost 1.

That whole number m is the SMALLEST possible number of teeth for one gear.

Multiply the gear ratio by m and round to a whole number to get the least number of teeth on the second gear. So, 9 teeth is the smallest number of teeth for one gear and 9 x 4.11 = 36.99 (that is, 37) is the smallest number of teeth for the other gear.

You can multiply the number of teeth on both gears by any whole number without changing the gear ratio. So, 2 x 9 = 18 teeth and 2 x 37 = 74 teeth also have the ratio 37 / 9 = 4.11111...

Here is how to tweak the result if the fraction you chose didn't give a satisfactory result:

Multiply the number of teeth from the trial answer by any whole number, say 2 or 20.

20 x 9 = 180 and 20 x 37 = 740

Now subtract 1 from the number of teeth on the larger gear and calculate the gear ratio.

740 - 1 = 739 and 739 / 180 = 4.105555...

Alternatively, add a tooth to the larger gear and check that ratio: 741 / 180 = 4.116666...

One key to this design problem is to remember that gears must have a whole number of teeth. It is impossible to roll a gear against another gear that has, say, half, a tooth somewhere among the whole teeth. So gears always have a whole number of teeth.

Another key is that the gear ratio is the ratio of the numbers of teeth on two gears, N1 divided by N2. The result of this division often produces a fraction AND the fraction is often ROUNDED OFF in printed materials. Because of this round-off, you cannot be certain what the actual fraction is. This means that, even when you find whole-number values for N1 and N2, you cannot be certain that they represent the exact numbers.

So, here is how to find the pair of gears from a given gear ratio such as 4.11. First, examine the fraction, 0.11, from the ratio. Find a whole number m such that m times the fractional part of the gear ratio gives another whole number almost exactly? Try m = 2, 3, 4 ... up to 16 or even more until you find a good fit.

For the given problem, 9 x 0.11 = 0.99, which is almost 1.

That whole number m is the SMALLEST possible number of teeth for one gear.

Multiply the gear ratio by m and round to a whole number to get the least number of teeth on the second gear. So, 9 teeth is the smallest number of teeth for one gear and 9 x 4.11 = 36.99 (that is, 37) is the smallest number of teeth for the other gear.

You can multiply the number of teeth on both gears by any whole number without changing the gear ratio. So, 2 x 9 = 18 teeth and 2 x 37 = 74 teeth also have the ratio 37 / 9 = 4.11111...

Here is how to tweak the result if the fraction you chose didn't give a satisfactory result:

Multiply the number of teeth from the trial answer by any whole number, say 2 or 20.

20 x 9 = 180 and 20 x 37 = 740

Now subtract 1 from the number of teeth on the larger gear and calculate the gear ratio.

740 - 1 = 739 and 739 / 180 = 4.105555...

Alternatively, add a tooth to the larger gear and check that ratio: 741 / 180 = 4.116666...