Step 1 ( to engine and front cover) 18 Ft. LBS.
Step 2 ( to rear cover) 106 inch LBS.
Step 3 ( Bellhousing, converter cover and transmission bolts ) 37 FT. LBS.
if you're under the hood, look at all the pulleys. the big one in the back, that is the one you will need to get to. I am not well with the proper terms or even tools, however, when you go to tighten it, it will turn towards the front of the car. at that time, you can get the belt off. Remember the diagram of how it goes on, cause if you don't, none of your things will work. oh, buy a book also. it is faster than this forum.
You need to obtain a flat serpentine changing wrench. They come in a variety of qualities, but a cheepie will do ~10$. You hook that on the end of the sprung idler pully and rotate against the spring pressure. the belt will loosen, pop it off, and put the new one on. The whole process will take under 10 minutes once the old belt is off. I considered cutting it off, but didn't need to with the wrench. Without the flat wrench, you will fight this for too long and likely not succeed.
I couldn't find a flat serpentine wrench (breaker bar) - the local stores used to carry them. What works just as well is a 15 mm box end wrench (the circular type that encloses a bolt), with a set of vise grip pliers for torque. The wrench is offset just enough to be able to place on the 15 mm bolt of the automatic belt tensioner pulley. Rotate the wrench clockwise (toward the front of the car) to release the pressure on the belt.
A small rope on the end of the 15MM wrench will hold the tensioner or a helper can pull on the rope.
no such animal. i think you mean 146.56 hp if so it depends in what ride. for instance 146 is good in say Toyota car because of weight and size but very bad if in 1ton dually truck for same reasons.
First put a floor jack under the engine and raise it just high enough to support the engine, do not raise the car.
Secondly, remove the moter mount on the left side of the car.
Using a serpentine tool or a small drive breaker bar (not sure on the drive size, I used a serpentine tool that costed around $9 at a discount tool store) move the tension pulley to release tension on the belt.
Slide the belt off and out, you may have to wrestle with it a bit to get it thru the small opening where you removed the engine mount.
Reverse the steps to install the new belt.
Hey Barbara==The linkage has comeloose inside the door. Take the window crank off with a special tool available from the parts store and all of the screws you can find then the retainers around the sides and bottom of the trim pad. The retainers need a special tool also. GoodluckJoe Hello! i have the same problem as she does and....in my case it isn't that the linkage came loose...my linkage is all in tact. It appears to be the latch itself inside the door. I took off the latch and peered in there and both linkages moved with a tug on the INSIDE handle but it wouldn't open. When the door was shut it would open from the outside but not inside. I would presume that the latch that causes the hook to spring up has just been too worn, bent, or out of alignment. I am looking on how to get the door panel off tho :-| and i came across this article. I'm positive i can fix it if i can just get the door panel off.
it may be back corner of engine, passenger side lower
Just pull it out of the hose and install the new one.
if it is the older LA block my guess is roughly 220-230hpType "1987 Dodge Ramcharger" in your browsers search window. You should get many possibilities. carsurvey.org cardomain.comM depends on what motor you have
Example, my 1990 dodge ram charger LX, with a stock 4 barrel carb, 2x4 tranny, 5.7 litre engine, was about 350 hp.i have a 1987 dodge d100 with bone stock 318 60000 miles it has a sad 130 horse it runs good but no balls at all i put on dyno for the hell of it and thats what i got lol
Less than 200 hp. After 1979, trucks under went the same de-powering as cars. Also in 1990 Dodge did not have a 5.7L engine. There was only 3 options: 3.9L V-6, 318 (5.2L) or a 360 (5.9L)
i take it u don't have a 90 ramcharger, i do tho, a 90 le150 4x2, a 5.7 isn't offered, in 90 they were throttle body injection, not carbs. my 318 5.2 pushes around 220
Actually- If your talking about the 318(5.2L) It came with about 156hp and I think @ 250ft lbs of torque. This doesn't sound like a whole lot but TORQUE is where a trucks real power lies. If your talking 360, Im not too sure but my guess would be not a lot more horse than the 318 but should be a fairly considerable amount more of torque... maybe 180-190hp and 280-300tq. btw... great old trucks!!!!
Possible air bag system malfunctioning. Take the car back to where the work was done, and have them look at it.
The alignment service was just a coincidence. This is a known problem and Honda issued a TSB on this.
Simply take your car to your local Honda dealer and tell them about the SRS light and remind them that there is a TSB on the issue. Your dealer should replace the OPDS sensor at no charge, regardless of age or mileage, as a goodwill gesture.
I had this done recently and it is has worked beautifully.
You normally change it when it is worn. Cracked, frayed, these are good signs that you need to replace it before it snaps. Not sure how many miles you have but sometimes it is a good idea to replace the belt tensioner as well. Look on the back side of the serpentine belt (the side of the belt with the ribs). If any of the ribs are cracked the belt should be replaced. Take a look at the physical condition. If it is cracked on the inside (groove or V side) it needs to be replaced.
Most cars and trucks today have what is called a serpentine belt which runs most accessories.They are very dependable and usually easy to replace. To decide if your belt needs replacing, simply look at the grooved side of the belt to see if it is cracking badly. A couple of cracks every 3 inches is normal, but if you see cracks every 1-2 inches I would recommend that you replace it. On most cars and trucks the procedure is basically the same. First off, get the correct belt by bringing your cars VIN number to the parts store(located on your cars dashboard) the parts store may need it. If there are two choices, get them both so you can complete the repair. Once you have the correct belt, take a minute to review how the belt runs across the pulleys and also check to see if your car/ truck has a underhood diagram of belt routing in case you need it. In most cases you will need a socket wrench or breaker bar with either a 3/8" and /or 1/2" head on it and possibly a short extension. Some models may require a wrench of these similar sizes.Now that you are ready to go to work, you will need to find the spring loaded tensioner which is generally located near the top of the belt path; it usually has a shinny pulley on it. Look at the tensioner and insert the tool into it and apply opposing pressure to release the belt.Now, simply install the new belt making sure it fits into the grooves on all the pulleys. Start the car to check it and you are done and you saved yourelf some money!
It depends on if it has a mount in front of it or it doesn't.
yes in front
In order to change the serpentine belt on a 99 grand am, you have to loosen the motor mount that is directly in the way. Once you have loosened the motor mount, you have to raise the engine (with the use of a floor jack) with enough of a gap to remove the old belt and slip the new belt on. Once the new belt is roughly in place (it doesn't have to actually be on the pullies yet)you can lower the engine back into place and secure the motor mount. Now you have to fight the tensioner, which is located on the lower rear of the engine (towards the firewall). Either get a wrench on the tensioner and slip the belt over, which may not work because you may not be able to get the wrench in there, or try getting to it from the bottom of the car. It's a real blast to change one. Wait to you change the headlights!!New HeadlineAnd enjoy the day as you try to replace the timing gear cover gasket. That's a RIOT...
If you have the 3.1 L V-6, it's a job and a half.
Ok, here goes. First, buy, rent, or pay the deposit on the parts store's loaner long-handled serpentine belt tool. It has skinny sockets that you will need to replace the tensioner. Bite the bullet and get the tool. Also--bite another bullet and buy the tensioner when you buy the belt. Get the best quality belt and tensioner you can get: this is NO time or place to go cheap.
If your serpentine belt BROKE, you likely have a greater problem than a worn belt. Before going to the parts store, check to see if the water pump or AC compressor is frozen up. Buy parts accordingly. The forces involved in breaking the belt will also tear the pulley on the tensioner to pieces. Just go ahead and replace the tensioner pre-emptively. That's why you bought it when you bought the belt, so do it now.
Now, grit your teeth and accept the fact that you have to remove all the moter mount stuff. You'll have to support the engine (with a jack on a 2x4 to spread the weight) from underneath. You'll remove the 3 nuts (don't lose the blind bolt under the 3rd nut) on the top of the black stamped steel bracket, the two bolts in the passenger side fender well that hold the bottom of the 2nd stamped steel bracket, the two bolts holding the heavy duty silver bracket, and the three bolts holding the heavy black cast bracket to the underside of the heavy silver bracket.
You will find that getting the 3/8" drive of a ratchet into the slight space offered by GM at the tensioner may be impossible. However, there is a 19mm flat-sided boss on the tensioner facing the front of the car. You can get a 19mm open end wrench, or a Crescent wrench, onto that boss and lift forcefully to turn the tensioner. Turn counterclockwise, as viewed from the passenger side, to loosen the belt. I would still opt to get the serpentine installation tool set from the parts store. (I also went ahead and made a 3/8" tool with more offset than the store-bought one. If you have welding capability, it's worth it to have the home-made tool.)
Since you have removed all the motor mount stuff removed already, this is the time to remove and replace the tensioner. Just do it. A good new one (a Dayco brand tensioner) is about 50 bucks at a parts store. By now you'd pay three times that not to have to do this job again. So just do it. Considering the work you are going through to do all this on your day off, replacing the tensioner as a preventative measure is well worth it. You need skinny hands to get the bolt started, but it can be done without too much grief. Put some Never-Seize on the bolt threads before installation. Note that you have to engage the pin on the tensioner into the hole in the engine timing gear cover before tightening down the bolt. Use the NEW BOLT that will come with the tensioner: it's different than GM's.
You already have removed the black stamped steel brackets that were attached to the fender, right? And you have also removed the heavy silver one that has the three big bolts (15 mm heads, two toward the back and one toward the front) and one empty hole at the front of the silver piece. You have replaced the tensioner because you do not want to go through this again next Spring. To install the new belt, you must LOOSEN the three bolts on the heavy and thick black cast and forged bracket that is attached to the engine. They are low and toward the front. This heavy forged thick bracket was attached to the thick silver piece with the three heavy bolts, and it is the black piece that prevents you from simply installing the belt around the power steering pump pulley. (BTW, removng the power steering pump won't help you--you have to get the belt around the black bracket.) By LOOSENING the three bolts in the heavy black bracket, you can just barely cause a gap at the rearmost heavy bolt location between the stamped steel engine mount boss and the heavy black bracket that will just barely allow you to slip in the belt. You may need to do a little gentle levering, but don't break anything. Note that I said LOOSEN--if you remove the three bolts you'll have coolant all over the place. Even so, you may have to remove the upper one completely to get enough of a gap at the rear for the belt to go through.
Once the belt is "through the loop" of the heavy black bracket, be sure you also get it around (over) the power steering pully, under the water pump pulley, and headed down toward the AC pulley. Tighten the three bolts that you just loosened, and thread the belt on to the pulleys. It goes (ribbed side) back around the alternator, down and around the crank pulley (ribbed side), up and around the tensioner (smooth side), down and around the AC pulley (ribbed side), up and around the water pump pulley (smooth side), over the power steering pump pulley (ribbed side) and rearward to the alternator (ribbed side.) Whew! You'll quickly find that it won't voluntarilty go over the alternator pulley unless you relieve the tensioner. Use the tool you rented or bought or made to relieve the tensioner (see above), slip the belt over the alternator pulley (ribbed side), and then ease up on your death grip on the tensioner tool to allow the belt to tighten itself.
CHECK ALL THE PULLEYS to be SURE the ribbed surface is centered on each ribbed pulley!! Misalignment will break the belt in a hurry, and then you can do this delightful task all over again.
Ok, that was all easy. You started at 10:00 thismorning and now it's 8:30 tonight. Now it's time to reassemble this beast. Whether today or tomorrow is up to you.
If you decided not to replace the tensioner yesterday, this is a good time to reconsider the wisdom of that decision. Thankfully, Auto Zone and Advance are open on Sundays...
You will find that dealing with the motor mount pieces is a challenge, especially in re-assembly. The one and only nice thing GM did for you is to have provided that 4th hole (the empty one) in the silver bracket--it allows you to pry and wiggle the motor mount pieces into alignment. Be prepared to adjust the engine up, down, front, and back a lot. With patience and some jockeying around, it all bolts together in reverse of disassembly.
Check for tools and anything you may have forgotten to tighten. The only left over part should be the original GM tensioner attachment bolt and the old tensioner, both of which you replaced with the new tensioner. Check coolant level. and Voila !! You're done.
Until it breaks again.
I just completed this today (Feb 22, 2009), it took about two hours at a slow pace with my son helping. It's my daughters 99 grand am. Also I'm not a mechanic, I'm slow, I just did it to help my daughter. Her serpentine belt is not broken, it's old and worn with lots of cracks and it needed replacement before it broke. All I was doing was a simple belt replacement. I hoped. As it turned out it was.
In order to change the serpentine belt in a garage we first supported the engine using a small wood block and a floor jack. The board was 1x because a 2x4 was too thick for my jack. After the engine is supported it was back to the belt.
To make this job easier we needed some room to wrench. So we removed the Coolant fill/over flow tank by removing the single bolt holding down. With the tank loose we simply lifted it or swung it out of the way as needed through out the project. We then removed two bolts holding another bracket in the way. Not sure what that component was, it's about 4x4x4 black electrical looking widget on a black metal bracket attached to the wheel well by two hex head screws. Now with every thing open we could see better and had much better access.
Next we removed two bolts and two nuts and removed the engine mount plate. Then it was time to release the tensioner. I don't know what Tom above was doing but my 3/8" drive rachet fit right into that perfect 3/8" square hole that GM put there. This does suck because it's located on the lower rear of the engine (towards the firewall). My 3/8" rachet is short of course so I used about a 14 mm deepwell socket with an 8" long 3/8" extension to extend the length of the handle. This gave me the leverage needed opperate the tensioner. The ratchet once it moved forward as the tension released would not come out of the hole from reduced clearance with the wheel well. So it just sat there and we wiggled the new belt around it. I will say this, I had two 3/8" rachets but only one of them would fit, the other was too fat. So it's possible you would have to get another tool. By the way you need a good set of metric sockets.
Now jack the engine up enough of a gap to remove the old belt and slip the new belt on. With the new belt roughly wound around the lower pulley's we started bolting back up the engine mount bracket. We simply pushed on the engine and leaned on the front end of the car to lower/raise the suspension just using our weight and pushing it around a bit. It bolted back up and went back on fairly smooth to this point. Use caution with those bolts and that alluminum block, one of our was stubborn.
With the motor mount now secured again. We released the jack and it settled back. From there we finished routing the upper half of the belt to the point where it was ready for the tensioner again. Once the belt was back on I checked that the belt looked snug and straight on all pulley's, it was. Then we remounted the black bracket thing and the coolant tank and, picked up the tools and started the engine. Ran great, end of job! Job well done.
1- You will need to disengage the negative battery cable prior to proceeding. This way the fan will not injure you if it should start unexpectantly.
2- Locate the tension wheel. This will be on the left side of the engine incorporated in the serpentine loop. There is a nut on this wheel. Use an appropriate size closed [or box end] wrench or a medium to large socket handle with the appropriate size socket and place on the nut.
3- Pull up on the wrench to relieve the pressure on the belt. There is not much room here so be careful and patient with yourself.
4- Pay attention to the path the belt takes around all the wheels. Note that some wheels are ribbed and some are smooth. The belt will ride with the rib side down on the ribbed ones. There should be a diagram on the frame near the front of the engine compartment.
5- I found that it is easier to remove the exhaust hose from above the serpentine for easier access.
6- With the tension released you can remove the belt.
7- Be careful when letting go of the wrench to get the new belt. The tension wheel has a strong spring inside it that can injure you.
8- Begin to loop the belt in the correct path leaving the smallest very top wheel for last. This wheel will be a smooth wheel that he belt will need to pass under. I found that this is the easiest wheel to reach while placing the belt back on.
9- Again pull up on the tension wheel as far as you can with one hand while you move the belt under the last wheel.
10- Prior to releasing the tension wheel, make sure that the belt is still in all the groves and around all other smooth wheel where appropriate.
Same as the front except don't try to compress the caliper. remove the cap that is in back and loosen with an Allen wrench
I have 22" tires on my 2202 AV with no problem. Just needed the longer lug nuts and that it.
First make a sketch of how the belt is routed over and under the pulleys. As you face the engine from the passenger side of the vehicle, look toward the firewall side of the engine for a pulley mounted on an "arm". This is the tensioner for the belt. On this arm is a 3/4" nut welded to it. Turn it clockwise toward the front of the car and the arm & pulley should swing enough for the belt to be pulled off. Replacing the belt is tricky because the new belt will be stiff and have bends set into a weird shape. It is best done with two people. One should be under the car and one on top. I did it with my wife. I was underneath. Start at the front of the car and work toward the rear leaving the tensioner for last. I made the final loop over the tensioner from underneath while my wife relieved the tensioner. You could do it from on top if they are skilled enough to un-tension the arm and position the belt. Both will have to hold the belt from slipping off as the belt as it is rerouted. Make some small golf club shaped or hooked tools to push / pull the belt over and under pulleys, it will help.
If you are doing this job yourself, it is a little easier to save the alternator for last.
Working from the front of the car you can pull on the tensioner (I used a 3/4" socket on a breaker bar) forward with one hand, while slipping the belt over the alternator pulley at the same time. Tricky, but it works!
look up www.streetdreams.com/wires, this could help . They have color chart for the wires and what they mean.
use a ratchet to loosen the mounting bolt on the alternator and pivot it down. now the belt should be loose. slip the belt off. slip the new one on. pivot the alternator back into position and tighten the mounting bolt. to get an exact fit before loosening the mounting bolt make a mark across the mounting bolt and mount so you can line it up when tightning. Chev Impala 3.8 ltr 2000 and earlier. 1) Remove stabilizer bar, 2 nuts on each side on top of strut mounts. 2) Remove coolant recovery tank and recovery tube, crimp tube lightly with small pair of vise grips so coolant will not drain out. 3)Using a 1/2" drive ratchet with a 15 mm socket place the ratchet on the self tension pully bolt. Pull up on the ratchet as if you are trying to loosen the bolt ( pully bolt will not undo ) using enough force to overcome the torque of the tension spring. This procedure will push the pully down enough to slip of the serpetine belt. Reverse procedure to install new belt.
Have you checked the Contour.org web page and forums? Lots of great information out there for us Contour and Mystique owners. Need to jack up car on right side. Lay down under the car and look up at the belt. use a wrench or socket on the tensioner to get slack in the belt. Pull the belt off when you get enough slack. Get your new bel on all the pulleys and pull the tensioner back up and slip the new belt on.
The first thing you need to do is remove the outer panel of the dashboard that surrounds the radio. This varies from year to year, but you'll find that there are some lag screws around the bottom panel. You may need to pop off some plastic trim to get at these screws. Once you've got the panel off, you need to pop out the radio. This can be done with the Ford radio removal tool (which costs money) or with a DIY device made by cutting a wire coat hanger and shaping two "U" type tools (which is free). Slide them in the holes (2 on each side) and put slight outside pressure on the tools and the factory radio will slide right out. Disconnect the wiring assembly and the antenna cable, and you have a clean slot, ready for your next head unit assembly. The radio removal tool may also come with some new stereos or installation kits specific to Ford Vans.
in my malibu, I loosened the belt tensioner first. There is a motor mount just in front of the belt that ou have to take one side off of. I lut a jack under the engine and jacked up the one side about an inch and slid the belt between the mount and the frame. Replacement belt should be put on using the diagram shown under the hood. It took me about 30 minutes my 1st time.
I'm not going to dispute anyone else's answer, but if you want to know a real easy crude way to change the serpentine belt on a 99' Chevy Malibu in about 5 minutes, which I just got through doing 15 minutes ago, listen to this.
You do not need any tools other than a long piece of steel bailing wire and may-be one other person to take the belt off the pulley. Run the bailing wire around the belt tensioner and out to the front of the car, pull the wire towards you and there you have it, bingo, the belt is loose enough to come off with out removing any other parts from the car. In order to replace the belt, just do the same thing, pull on the wire and install the new belt. (DON'T FORGET TO REMOVE THE WIRE AFTERWARDS) lol
Factory rating is 200 horsepower.
Most knock sensors send a base or â€œno knockingâ€ reference signal to the PCM. If knocking occurs, the sensor detects the increased vibration and increases its signal to the PCM. The PCM then slightly retards timing until the sensor signal returns to the reference level. If a temporary condition caused the knock, the PCM will set spark timing to the programmed advance. If the knock returns, the PCM will cycle spark timing, advancing timing until knock is encountered and then retarding timing until the knock is gone. Knock occurs when the air-fuel mixture doesnâ€™t burn smoothly or is ignited too soon. Knock can be caused by â€œhot spotsâ€ in the cylinder, such as carbon deposits or spark plugs that are too hot for the engine, high combustion chamber temperatures, or using too low an octane fuel. Knocking can cause engine damage so the sensor is there to protect the engine.
Go here for a full set of instructions, with pictures. http://www.g20.net/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=17719
Are you talking about the entire dashboard or just the piece around the instrument cluster, radio, heater, etc. If it's the last of the two, turn the key to the ON position and (while keeping your foot on the break) move the shifter all the way down to low. Then put your steering wheen in the lowest position and with a firm grip, pull the panel off working all the way around the panel to release all clips. .
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