Heating AC and Engine Cooling

This YouTube video should be very helpful http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=31U3srwo74U&feature=youtube_gdata_player

No. It is operated by an electric motor. But your problem may not be limited to the temp blend door motor. We also had problems with something in the heater box called a secondary stratification door. It works together with the blend door itself. Sometimes it would get warped and start hanging up. The solution is to replace the door with a revised door. It is also possible that you have an electrical problem in the heater blend door motor control circuit. Mix door The air mix door is malfunctioning or the controls are disconnected and allowing too much outside air to enter the cab. Sometimes you can get at the controls from the outside of the heater but you may have to open the heater to repair the mix door. Many times when cores are replaced the person forgets to reconnect the mix controls or breaks the connection unwittingly. The blend door actuator motor is on the front side of the box and can be seen by fulling opening the glove box and looking to the left over the transmission tunnel. Pictures and diagnostic procedures are available at heatertreater.net. The blend door on the Taurus is on a horizontal axis running from the front to back of the car. If you fully open the glove box, you can see the actuator motor in the far left hand side of the heater box. Access to the motor is trying, but not difficult. There is a metal cover held on with two screws and three additional screws that hold the motor in place. Additionally there is a miki-mauz lever system connected to the motor that controls the backside radiant heat door over the heater core. It is difficult to remove the lever system without breaking it. If you pull the motor, you can examine the axle connector to the blend door and physically verify if it is broken. The Taurus has two major problem. 1) a block heater core and 2) broken blend door. The dealer solution to replacing the door is complicated and expensive. It sounds like the control cable for the heater control valve may have slipped position, is now binding, or, that valve is partially blocked. Hopefully, the heater core needed replacing, and the heater control valve was'NT the problem all along. It is paramount that we find reputable and thorough mechanics. I'm not a mechanic, but I am a consumer who, like others, have been pinched before. Good luck on your thorough investigation !....BB On a 99 Taurus, the blend door is controlled by an electric motor and this same motor module is used on multiple Ford products. The motor has the characteristic of over stressing the plastic blend doors when it goes through a periodic calibration routine. The net effect is a broken blend door and loss of control over temperature control. We have the Taurus on our development list at HeaterTreater and will have a simple cheap solution available this summer. As a stopgap, you can short circuit the coolant flow through the heater core and run in AC only mode for the summer. The blend door actuator / motor is a rather common failure. Costs about $15, and the repair instructions can be found online (doesn't look too difficult with the ashtray & bracket removed) See "Related Links" below Nothing except normal plain old usage. They just fail. It is a motorized device built by human beings. It will and does go bad. There are plastic gears inside that wear out and electrical stuff that breaks down and dies. If you mean that you can't mix the air (i.e. make the air warmer and cooler with the mixer knob) it may not be the valve. My 99 stopped mixing about 6 months ago with 94,000 miles. Then a couple of weeks ago the "tee" for the heater bypass hose sprang a leak. I had the hose assembly replaced, but the car started overheating when the engine speed was low, as in traffic. We got it home from New Orleans to Jacksonville, FL by adding water every two or three hundred miles. I then came to this site and decided to have the water pump replaced. When I got back to the garage, he showed me the pump. THERE WERE NO VANES ON THE PUMP!!!!! It looked like a little waffle on a stick. Now I know why it would overheat - not a lot of water was circulating without any vanes. Try replacing the synchronizer assembly that is under the camshaft position sensor. I had to replace it in my 96 Taurus. I work in a repair shop and we have don't it in a 97 Taurus also.

Here are some tips for how to prepare your automobile for winter, i.e. "winterize your car." Some of these tips can be performed by any do-it-yourselfer; others require an auto technician. Engine Performance -- Get engine driveability problems (hard starts, rough idling, stalling, diminished power, etc.) corrected at a good repair shop. Cold weather makes existing problems worse. Replace dirty filters -- air, fuel, PCV, etc. Fuel -- Put a bottle of fuel deicer in your tank once a month to help keep moisture from freezing in the fuel line. Note that a gas tank which is kept filled helps keep moisture from forming. Oil -- Change your oil and oil filter as specified in your manual; more frequent changes (every 3,000 miles) should be made if your driving is mostly stop-and-go or consists of frequent short trips. Remove the radiator cap until the engine has thoroughly cooled! The tightness and condition of drive belts, clamps and hoses should be checked by a pro. Windshield Wipers -- Replace old blades. If your climate is harsh, purchase rubber-clad (winter) blades to fight ice build-up. Stock up on windshield washer solvent; you'll be surprised how much you use. Carry an ice-scraper. Heater/Defroster -- The heater and defroster must be in good working condition for passenger comfort and driver visibility. Battery -- The only accurate way to detect a weak battery is with professional equipment. Routine care: Scrape away corrosion from posts and cable connections; clean all surfaces; re-tighten all connections. If battery caps are removable, check fluid level monthly. Avoid contact with corrosive deposits and battery acid. Wear eye protection and rubber gloves. Lights -- Inspect all lights and bulbs; replace burned out bulbs; periodically clean road grime from all lenses. To prevent scratching, never use a dry rag. Exhaust System -- Your vehicle should be placed on a lift and the exhaust system examined for leaks. The trunk and floor boards should be inspected for small holes. Exhaust fumes can be deadly. Tires -- Worn tires will be of little use in winter weather. Examine tires for remaining tread life, uneven wearing, and cupping; check the sidewalls for cuts and nicks. Check tire pressures once a month. Let the tires "cool down" before checking the pressure. Rotate as recommended. Don't forget your spare, and be sure the jack is in good condition. Carry emergency gear: gloves, boots, blankets, flares, a small shovel, sand or kitty litter, tire chains, and a flash light. Put a few "high-energy" snacks in your glove box. If you live in Florida, have your a/c checked. If you live in Buffalo, check your heat, wipers, and tires. You should be keeping up on the maintenance so you shouldn't need to worry about that (coolant flush, transmission service, tune up, etc.). Since you don't own a lift, pay an independent garage to look the car over to see what the shape of the car is in. It would be wise to lube your locks and hinges, hood release, clean off your gaskets around the doors and silicone them. Use some RAIN-X on the windshield, coat your fancy wheels with wax, (don't wipe off till spring), replace the battery if it is five years old. Or if you feel less energetic, just tell the car "It won't be that bad"! Get your coolant mixture right. It may be a good idea to have your radiator flushed out and add a 50/50 mix of water and coolant. Some parts of USA are different depending on how cool your area gets.

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If equipped with a cabin filter, it is under the dash on the passenger side.

in the engine in the underhood fuxe box near the motor

Thermostat stuck closed, engine overheating, temp gauge running very hot. Thermostat stuck open, little or no heat from heater, temp gauge not moving much off of cold mark.

well.ity means that u can s go an dta ke a bath allrighty because im having a goood ni ght out aqnded i dont want u to spoil it ha

The heater core is cracked. You may also be smelling a sweet sort of smell when you turn on the heat and the car is running hot. That sweet smell comes from the anitfreeze when it burns. I have a 1998 ford Expedition and I smell antifreeze inside the truck. also antifreeze leaking around the passenger side of motor outside..... I can see a mist coming out of the ac vents.... could it be bad heater core and is it easy to fix or do you have step by step removal/installation instructions? please help Your heater core is probably cracked. There is alot of work to get to the core. You have to remove the front dash board.

You need to check to see if your vaccum ball does not have a crack in it .If it does go to a part shop and change it . It located on one of the fendes in the car. In most cases yes, open is the default position. answer yes the doors being open have nuthing to do with engine running

How is your heat? Overheating can cause damage generally to head gasket, cylinder head or thermostat. See other posts regarding headgaskets in this forum. answer you can damage whole engine thru overheating but if u had no coolant leak when overheating occurred, u need to check water pump and thermostat in engine

go to the salvage yard and put that one in and it will work. It's not hard to get out just two wires you unplug. Make sure you take off the neg from you battery before you install the one you got. Try replaceing the a/c relay. On my Chevy S-10 blazer the relay is on the firewall passenger side. Your blower motor is failing and is only working on high speed.

I have a 1992 Plymouth Sundance with 130000 miles. 4 cyl, 2.0L It has been well taken care of with regular maintenance between 3k to 5k intervals since I bought it with 58k. The car instantly overheats when turned on. The heat blows frigidly cold air. It has a thermostat that is ~5 months old. The car will shudder and shake and then cut out when left idling or when it over heats. It is not losing coolant, but the car smells like burning antifreeze when you lift the hood. It will also steam and or smoke that escapes from under the hood when you turn it on. 1.) What are the possible diagnoses? 2.) How much will it cost? (Chicago area) 3.) Is it worth spending the money on a rebuilt car that I've had since high school, or should I just give up and buy a newer car? The most common cause of simultaneous engine overheating and no heat from the heater is extremely low engine coolant level, in other words a large pocket of air in the system. In some cars it's fairly easy to get the air out, in others it's very tricky. If there's a leak causing coolant loss, that will also have to be addressed or the problem will recur/worsen. Check 1. Your Thermostat (70%) of the time it is your thermostat. 2. Check and see if your radiator is clogged (Also very common). Another issue is if your car overheats during idle, then it could be the electric radiator fan. == == == ==

Here are responses: * Several things could be the cause. Low coolant. Heater valve. The belt. The compressor. Check these in the order shown. * You most likely to need a new temperature control switch in your heater/ac. This is the switch in the dash; easy to change.

Engine cooling fans are protected by relays in the engine compartment power distribution . fuse box. 1995-1998 Relay B - high speed Relay H - low speed 1999-2003 Relay 301 - high speed Relay 303 - low speed See "Related Questions" below for links for online Owners Manuals to figure which relay is which Look under the hood near the battery for the fuse box. The relay should be a large relay near the front of the car. Usually numbered 301 or 303 (One is for low speed fan and the other is for high speed cooling fan) Check your owner's manual. My 2000 Taurus manual lists the location of all the relays and fuses in the under hood power box.

Each of these things can be checked independently of the others without spending any money on parts. 1-Low coolant level. 2-Restricted airflow to the radiator as from leaves or plastic bags in fron of it, or the plastic under-skirting being broken away (as from running up onto curb-stops.) 3-Restricted flow of within the radiator or hoses. Restricted flow in hoses is rarer, but rev the engine to 2000 to 2500 RPM for several seconds after the engine is fully warmed and look for either radiator hose to collapse. To check for restricted radiator, you can take the temperature of the radiator with a non-contact thermometer in several places or you can open the cap (if so equipped) and look for white deposits. White deposits mean you need a radiator. If your radiator has no cap, remove the upper hose and look in through that opening. 4-Poor heat transfer. Poor heat transfer can be radiator to air (look for missing or greenish radiator fins) or internal due to a high ratio of anti-freeze to water (use a hydrometer) or internal due to scale deposits (with an iron engine your coolant will be brownish, aluminum engines can be checked by removing the thermostat or water pump and looking inside for whitish deposits). 5-Insufficient coolant pumping. Metal water pump impellers can erode over time, especially with excessively old coolant. Plastic water pump impellers can break randomly, and are prone to break if the engine is a Ford Duratec or Volkswagen or if the water pump hasn't been replaced after an overheat. Cheap substandard $5 replacement water pumps have often have a poorly designed impeller that can become dislodged. To check, remove the thermostat(s) and fill the system with coolant or water. Remove the radiator cap (if so equipped, otherwise surge tank cap) and observe the coolant level while rapidly snapping the throttle from closed to wide open. The coolant level should change drastically (more than 1/4 inch) if the pump is good. 6-Exhaust gases leaking into radiator. This is usually caused by a leaky head gasket, but can also be caused by a cracked or eroded engine. Note that GM Quad-4 engines are particularly prone to cracking, and four cylinder Chrysler engines and cars owned by youthful males or Jewish women are prone to head gasket leakage. An electroneic gas analyzer can be used to check this condition, but for the do-it-yourselfer, check with the local parts store or tool dealer for a disposable chemical based detection kit. 7-Boiling. Boiling can be caused by too much water in the coolant, insufficient pressure due to a leak or a bad cap, Partially restricted water jackets, or overheating due to another cause. Presumably, any other overheating has already been ruled out so you might as well check for leaks, then replace the coolant with a correct mix and put a new cap on it. If you have a restricted water jacket, you're going to need the engine rebuilt. ***Fan related problems will _not_ cause overheating at highway speed.*** Answer There are many possibilities. But if you are traveling locally a very short distance, possibly the engine does not reach temperature to open the thermostat. The water is circulating in the engine. On the highway, the car may reach temperature, opening the thermostat. Now the water is also going through the upper and lower radiator hoses and radiator. If there is a small leak in the hoses or radiator, that would cause overheating, now that the water is leaving the engine, (and is under pressure). A pressure test of the cooling system usually will show a leak. Especially if you notice fluid under the car after driving. Answer A weak lower radiator hose could collapse at highway speeds but not lesser speeds around town. Answer The most likely cause is a plugged radiator. Over time sediment build up in a radiator. Every time a radiator is heated and then cools the sediment collects at the bottom of the radiator slowing reducing it's efficiency. I have seen this particular overheating problem numerous times and traced it to a plugged radiator. Take it to a shop and have the radiator rodded and repaired and it will cure your problem. Answer Have your clutch fan checked. the tension of the clutch can weaken causing the fan to turn too slow at higher rpm's. Answer I had a similar problem. If the car has sit for any length of time a mouse or rat may have built a nest in the muffler or exhaust pipe. This causes back pressure to build up at highway speeds but not at short low speed in town driving. If one of the other ans did not fix the problem this is worth a shot. Answer another possibility is a blown or leaking head gasket. A cracked head/block will also cause a vehicle to overheat when operated at higher rpm, the crack doesn't expand until temperature is excessive. typically the vehicle will produce a smoky emission from the exhaust, but it is actually steam from the antifreeze/water mixture leaking into the combustion chamber.

It can if their is something wrong with the cooling system.

Most likely the heater core is leaking. If there is also water on the floor and an antifreeze smell in the passenger compartment, those are also signs of a cracked heater core. Also, GET THAT TEMP GAUGE FIXED!!! You could be overheating and not even know it. Once the motor overheats, you're risking a blown head gasket, a VERY EXPENSIVE repair, or even worse, a blown engine. If steam is coming out of the vents it is very possible the motor is overheating. You need two repairs, your heater core and your temperature gauge. My heater core was replaced since it had a hole in it. The blower was also replaced but with a used one. The guage is now working and so far, no more white smoke. Heater does not get hot though and the blower motor is very loud. Hey, ya gotta laugh a little...from one thing to another. I suppose the worse thing is over. Thank the Lord though I did not have a new car since the guy that worked on it did a number on my dash. Symptom: on a 2000 Ford Contour, white smoke came through the vents and the smeel was acrid. We switched the car off. A few hours later, the car was fine, no more smoke, but the heater didn't work on one speed setting. Solution: there is a resistor block which controls the blower speed in the ducting. When one of the resistors goes, white smoke is fed dirrectly up to the vents. Replacement is easy (admittedly while doing a head stand in the passenger footwell) and fairly cheap. Suggestion: many other cars will have a similar layout. Check this out before investing in a new heater core...

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IF it is leaking you're not going to have high pressure. Coolant is under pressure so it does not boil, which make bubbles, bubbles do not transfer heat to radiator walls where it can be dissipated into the atmosphere. It's the same reason it takes water less time to boil at high altitudes: because there is less pressure. Not necessarily, if combustion gas is pushing out water from the cooling system it will over heat at normal speeds even when idling.Check thermostat is opening ,radiator, pipes and waterways for blockage,air flow through radiator,fan/water pump belt tention and get a proper service /check over.To find out if the gasket is leaking air into cooling system, fill up by the radiator cap when cool,fill expandtion tank to line, make sure there are no other leaks,run and check again when cool,if the rad is full to the top and tank is on line your gasket is probably not the problem. In my case, the combustion chamber could be leaked and filled with coolant water and then it turned out white smoke coming out from the exhaust. The coolant level will be lower in the result of overheating.

For metal radiators, ideally, it needs to be braised (not usually a do-it-yourself job). However, if there is too much metal fatigue, it must be replaced. For plastic radiator parts, ideally, the part should be replaced, and any other plastic radiator parts should be inspected for signs of impending failure since they are likely to have similar life spans.

You will have to remove the long bolts that go through the motor mounts and raise the engine up and support it / brace it so it don't fall and tear a hand off. Then you will have to remove the 3 bolts that hold the mount to the engine block. Now replace the freeze plug.

1- you breathe too heavy. 2-You don't have the defroster on. 3-your heater core is leaking Best guesses of top of my head. It would be nice to know what you have, since all cars aren't created equal. I am just thinking about it.....it just might be the THERMOSTAT....If you have luke warm air blowing thru the vents when you are standing still and then get a blast of waarm air when you start to move (that warmth is coming from the engine). Check the 'STAT, every 24 months..... I just had this happen, and I remember from other times..... good luck I have that problem sometimes, too. In winter you should have the Fresh Air switch set to receive air from outside the car. Otherwise you are just recycling the moist air you are breathing inside the car, contributing to the buildup of fog on the windows. Some cars are worse then others with fogging. I know all the Toyotas I've owned no matter what the age(assuming that when they were brand new they had no other problem causing the fogging) have always been horrible with windows fogging up. My brother seems to mostly buy Hondas and he doesn't seem to have much of a fogging problem. I usually keep the window cracked a bit in the winter. That seems to help more then anything else. O.K...., Let's see, here... The human body is a nice, warm 98.6 degrees F; The outside temperature is below, say, 40 degrees F; Hmmm... Do you think it could be caused by the same principle that makes 'smoke' come out of your mouth when you breathe out in frigid weather?! Or, maybe it's the same principle that allows you to breathe on a piece of glass and briefly 'write' on it with your finger. Wow! What a concept! unknow

yes ! very much so it is a mixture of chemicals and it can cause dizziness or worse, more permanent effects. it is some times used as an inhalant, witch is a type of drug and is very bad for you. try to avoid anti-freeze as much as you can. there has been deaths reported about inhaling anti-freeze.

Sounds like the Thermostat may be stuck in the open position. Hurry and replace because this condition will cause your water pump to fail shortly after. Cold air was my first sign and because I didn't replace it, I'm now replacing the thermostat, water pump, timing belt and balance shaft belt(because they got wet when the pump went out). $250.00 doing it myself, approximately $670.00 at the dealer. I have an 03 Galant and when it started blowing cold air it was because of a defective cut off valve in the metal heater line just outside of the heater core. The design of the A/C and heater system places them together requiring that hot water not flow the heater is not in use. It is located next to the glove compartment and will require the removal of the dash pad.