The heater resistor is quite simple to change. Unplug the wiring harness from the heater resistor. Remove the heater resistor retaining screws. Reverse the process to install your new heater resistor.

It could be any of a number of reasons. Such as: You are out of freon. Your compressor doesn't work. Really the only thing your light being on is telling you is that the fuse isn't blown. And your heater has nothing but the blower motor and duct work in common with the air conditioner. I would suggest a good mechanic or a Haynes or Chiltons Manual if you are mechanically enclined. Good luck. Jeeps are notorious for the AC going out more than likely your heater core box is full of debris and the fore you have to go to the dealer ship and they cahrge you $850 to clean it then they tell you how you need a new condenser and that is another $850 this has happend 2X to me my suggestion is get rid of it additional info: there are a number of posts on Wiki concerning AC problems with Jeep GC's. My experience is that you probably are having a problem with a clogged drain tube leaving the evaporator box. This is assuming that your freon system is fully charged. I would have a reputable AC tech check the freon first and then turn my attention to the drain. The previous answer is correct about the debris in the evaporator box and it is a result of extremely poor engineering on the part of Jeep. Keep looking on line and you will find out more.

Of course, you have to be sure that the compressor is working, the system is charged and things are getting cold. A simple check of the refrigerant lines going into the firewall with your hand will give you an indication of whether the system is cooling or not. If the lines are cold, your problem may be with the blend door or re-circ door. The blend door diverts some or all of the air flow through the heater core. When this door breaks, you lose control over the air flow and can see problems with both heat and AC. Usually the broken blend doors fall to the bottom of the heater box on the GC and block heat. However, it is not uncommon for the doors to fall crooked and kill the AC function also. The re-circ door is also susceptible to failure. This door chooses between external and internal air going into the system. When it fails, you are contstantly pulling hot, outside air into the system, greatly reducing AC efficiency. Both of these fail modes are common. Check the HeaterTreater listings on Ebay for more diagnostic information and an inexpensive fix for the problem

under the dash pass. side look at heater you will see a plug with several wires that look like thy go into the heater there is a one screw plastic cover over this area so your feet dont hit it remove then uplug the wires then take the 2 screws out of oval shaped sensor and pull it out of heater you will see some transister on the back side and a little coil . replacing this will cure it usually . but first remove your heater blower and make sure it turns freely and not seizing.

You have to take off the glove compartment, and some other paneling to get to a little motor with a whole bunch of gears right behind your center console. Just put grease (or Vaseline) on all of those gears, and you should be good to go!

check both heater hoses under the hood with engine at running temp. if only one hose is hot your heater core is restricted( try flushing it out),m low coolant will also cause no heat since the heat comes from the hot coolkant in the heater core. if both hoaes are hot chances are the blend air door in the interior heat unit is faulty or climate control is not calling for heat.

Has to do with the rpms if it's idle not much power is giving out to the car from the fan belt to get very warm. Say next time you're in your car. Start the car give it a little gas where the rpm is almost at 2 rpms. Same goes for the a/c.

You may have air trapped in the cooling system. Remove rad cap, start engine and let it run for 30 minutes with the cap off while you add coolant as needed. That should do it unless you have a cooling system leak.

vacuum controlled doors ...vacuum leak or a pen or pencil down the vents....look at some pics Everyone should have a manual for their vehicle, and the library should have a professional shop manual available in the reference section(make copies of the right sections) read up and fix it like a PRO! :) good luck

in early 1800

==new answer== The universal principle is this- if you want someone else to be something, first be that yourself.

A way to work with this so that you can see how it works is to pick a person you are in daily contact with. Next, make a list of the things about this person that irritate you. Beside this list, choose the direct opposite of this quality and choose one each day to practice in that person's presence, without their knowledge of what you are doing so you can see the results. You will actually be practicing being what you want that person to become. Practice this thoughtfully and faithfully for two weeks and then log the results.

"Molly is the most _____ person I know because she changes her mind all the time."

I have the same problem. Did you find anything out to help?

Good change a plugged heatercore. When it runs, feel the two hoses going into the firewall that carry coolant. If one is smokin hot and the other isn't, then that's the problem. Post you results.

no ,but u will have to get it checked up on mabe, reprogrammed

A thermostat stuck in the open position could keep an engine from reaching operating temperature, the interior heater would also not blow hot air. This can happen when using hard water ( water with a lot of minerals in it ) mixed with antifreeze.

either need a blend door accuator or a heater box

Thermostat stuck open or heater core clogged. Bad radiator cap or small hole in cooling system.

what is luke warm

The engine should begin producing heater output within the first minute. Might take a little longer in colder climates. Although it sounds like I may not be warming my car up before turning on the heat blower, this never happened until a month ago. Even if there is no heat, shouldn't it at least blow cold air? Nothing blows....what could it be? If the BLOWER(FAN) is not blowing no mater what speed or settings are used on the climate control center(AC,DEFROST), the the motor itself is bad. A good test is to take a ruber malet and lightly smack the motor directly with the engine running. If the motor suddenly starts blowing then the motor is bad. About $110.00 to replace with common hand tools.

Yes. Your thermostat has gone bad, not allowing the water to flow freely through the radiator. They are generally very simple to replace. Your local auto parts will help most often.

The connection is that both functions (keeping your engine at the proper operating temperature and providing a source of heat to the passenger compartment of your car) rely on the flow of "radiator fluid" through your engine.

First a basic description of the system. A thermostat located on the top of your engine has a hose just about big enough to get your hand around it connected to it's housing. The thermostat normally stays closed until the engine radiator fluid temperature gets to 165 to 190 degrees (half to 3/4's on a temp gauge on your instrument panel). It then opens to allow flow. Radiator fluid flows from the thermostat through a hose just big enough to get your hand around to top of the large radiator at the front of the engine compartment. The fluid flows through the radiator and ram air from driving or fans mounted on the radiator cool the fluid before it flows out of the other side on the bottom (same diameter hose) to the water pump mounted on the engine. When the fluid gets hot it expands. As small diameter hose from the radiator cap filler neck allows it to escape to a plastic overflow reservoir in your engine compartment. From the water pump, most of the fluid flows back to the engine to collect heat again but a portion of it flows to the heater core (a small radiator) typically located in the passenger compartment behind the dash. Air from a blower is heated as it blows through the heater core and into the passenger compartment.

The troubleshoot: What can restrict proper flow? Low fluid level (internal or external leak, air in system, evaporation over a very longer period of time), thermostat stuck closed, water pump failed or clogged internal passages.

Note: Always take safety seriously. Engine belts and fans grab loose clothing or hair. The cooling system has extremely hot poisonous fluid under pressure [gloves, splash goggles, proper disposal].

With a cold engine, check the reservoir level. It should have a cold level line. Service to line. Remove the radiator cap and check the level. If low, service, replace the cap, start the engine and look for external leaks and if dry see check if you have heater function and cool engine. Keep an eye on the level over the next couple days. If it goes down, get to a qualified mechanic to check for exhaust gas in the fluid (head gasket). If it's full, try squeezing the upper and lower hoses quickly and look for bubbles in the cap filler neck followed by a drop in the fluid level. This is air in the system that could slow or restrict flow or proper temperature sensing. Service and repeat until the level stays full. Many engines have bleed taps just downstream of the water pump and thermostat (looks like a small hex head bolt screwed into a slightly larger hex head bolt). With engine running and the smaller hex turned no more than a 1/2 turn counter clockwise, a steady flow of fluid should drain from it when the system is air free. If you can't get this it may take a qualified mechanic to thoroughly bleed the system.

To check for a stuck closed thermostat, feel the upper and lower radiator hoses when the engine temperature gauge is between 1/2 and 3/4. Be very careful, both should be getting hot. To be sure about the thermostat function, it can be removed and checked in a pot of water on the stove, actuating open just before boil.

If the fluid level is good, you know the thermostat works and the system is air free, flow could be restricted by blockage. Again I'd recommend a qualified mechanic to do a system flush and/or radiator replacement.

Water pumps usually leak a great deal out a weep hole on the bottom when they fail which is pretty much a mister obvious before you do all the above.

Although thermostat could Be stuck in the open position, it can also be as simple as not enough water or a leak. Check if the gauge is hot and the air is cold. This indicates lack of water, or a bad or loose water pump belt. Also could be your actuator door is defective.

Doesn't matter which way the water flows. The heater core is just a tube with fins and water can flow either direction.