Ford F-150

How to test an ignition coil This testing procedure is valid for just about any automotive coil. Using an ohmmeter, check the resistance between the side terminals of the coil. Do this with all of the wires to the coil disconnected. You should see 0.75 to 0.81 ohm of resistance. Then check the resistance between either side terminal and the center high tension terminal. The reading should be 10,000 to 11,000 ohms. Any significant deviation from these numbers would indicate that the coil could be defective. <><><> You can also rest an ignition coil by using a volt meter.There should be a little over 12 volts pulse, or a dip and peak in the meter needle, rather than a steady 12 volts, at the output, while cranking the engine. <><><> Be careful about these answers. My voltmeter has a 9 volt battery installed. An ignition coil can produce 20 kV - that is twenty thousand volts! - at 100 mW, now that would bother me a bit. So now, how can we check this coil safely? Well, start by shorting the output (the high tension terminal) and check the primary winding for continuity. On a normal meter 0.75 ohms might be very hard to read but, if you use a 1.5 flashlight bulb and battery in series with it, if the bulb lights, the primary winding is probably ok. (Unless its insulation has got fried by a fault called a "shorted turn", in which case the flashlight bulb will still light up but the ignition coil still won't work...) The secondary, high tension, winding of the coil can be checked by shorting it with a high resistance load having a tap to form a 1000:1 split ratio, so you can use your meter to check for an output voltage of around 20 volts when a small 1.25 volt battery is connected and disconnected to the primary. The actual output voltage should let you work out the turns ratio between primary and secondary of the coil. maybe Note: to see the output voltage for a longer time, add a diode and capacitor onto voltage divider tap. I need to know how to check a coil on a Honda accord 94

The firing order for a Dodge 318cid/5.2L is 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2 clockwise rotation. Cylinders are numbered like this. Pass side 2-4-6-8 front to rear. Driver side 1-3-5-7 front to rear. The firing order is probably forged into the intake manifold. Number one tower on the distributor cap is the one facing the number one plug or the driver-side headlight. Distributor rotor at Number 1 plug terminal points to front intake bolt on left side of engine. Answer it should be cast into your intake manifold. Answer fireing order is 1,8,4,3,6,5,7,2 distributor rotation is clockwise The link below will answer your question:

A good auto parts store will scan codes for free. However, do you research on other forums to learn what each code could 'really' mean. Most the time it's a vacuum leak. Don't let them sell you expensive sensors before researching the codes. Answer Problem with emission control system - have vehicle scanned to determine the problem Answer The check engine light (CEL for short) is triggered when one or more of the many sensors on the vehicle detects a not-normal reading, There are 2 basic steps to determining the cause of the CEL coming on: 1. Have the codes read - many places offer to read the engine codes for free. Autozone even provides a printout of the codes, and a short description of common causes 2. Research those codes! Find out the true cause and reason for the not-normal reading. It is not often that the sensor itself is bad and requires replacing. There are countless sources of information on engine DTC (diagnostic trouble codes) on the internet - including WikiAnswers! My real-life examples: DTC code P0402 on 98 Tracer - replaced the EGR valve, light came back. Made my daughter live with it for 2 years. Yesterday I had a few minutes while waiting for the oil to drain and poked around the engine - found a small 2" piece of rubber hose that had softened and collapsed right where the PCV connects. A free piece of hose from Autozone and the light cleared after a few drive cycles! Major auto parts chain told me my TSP (Throttle position sensor) was bad due to the CEL being lit up (might have been a P1120 DTC). $40 and 10 minutes to replace - ((_#*&$ light came right back. A few days ago, after doing some reading, I bought a $4 can of throttle body spray cleaner - used 1/2 the can on my 98 Sable - voila! CEL is gone again! *DTC codes P0171 and P0174 - O2 sensors reported lean fuel conditions on bank 1 & 2 on my 2001 Windstar. Some research later found out the 1999-2003 Windstar 3.8l engines had a known problem and Ford issued a technical service bulletin (TSB) describing exactly how to fix it. Instead of wasting $80 replacing perfectly good 02 sensors, I used that money to buy the parts for the repair. I have added untold miles to the life of my engine, and kicked up my MPG for real savings! Pay attention to those check engine lights - they're there for a reason. And with the internet today, you can readily find the information to keep your car healthy, and even save some $$ in the process. the engine light monitors computer sensors and functions, not vital things like temp. oil pressure etc. when that light is on, there will be a code stored in the computers memory. Most auto supply stores can access and read the codes for you, which will tell you what to look for. your particular vehicle is bad about setting a code for being too lean, probably the intake leaking vacuum Answer- Reset Cel yourself disconnect the battery. not sure for how long. (15 minutes?) Answer Sometimes the gas cap not being tight can cause a check engine light in newer models of cars. Sounds silly but worth a try, especially if you recently filled the tank. Take the cap completely off, and screw back in ensuring that it is on straight and tight. Answer The check engine light turns on to inform the driver that the computer has detected a 'fault' and that the driver should address the problem. If the light is on constantly, it's considered a "minor" fault but something that needs attention as soon as you get a chance. If the light is flashing it means that something serious has been detected and you need to deal with it NOW! You can either take the vehicle to a shop and have the mechanic connect a code reader to your vehicle OR you can take your vehicle to your local auto parts retailer and borrow, rent or buy a code reader that will tell you what's wrong. Whichever you decide, you won't be able to guess what's wrong, and nobody can help you unless and until you connect the vehicle to a code scanner. Often it's something relatively simple even though it may be a bit expensive. Oxygen sensors for example can be pricey and you should replace both sides at the same time. On the other hand it can sometimes be as simple as a loose gas cap. The code scanner is a great help and if you intend to do much of your own work it's good to have your own scanner. Scanners can be purchased for as low as $30 Answer its telling you its time to service your van you more than likely have a sencer that is going or is allready done you need to get a code reader done an OBD GOOD LUCK DRIVE SAFE Computer The only way you will know what is wrong ( there could be problems that do not affect the way it runs right now ) is to have the computer codes read. If the light is on there "is" a problem. Answer If you check engine light kicks on, I would either get an ODB 2 diag unit and plug it in and check for an error code, or I would let a shop do it. If you do it you can look up what the code means on Google. mk1505 added 1/6/08 On 1998 and 99 windstars a flashing MIL (check engine light) means that the computer has detected one or more misfiring cylinders. You will need to connect an OBDII compliant scanner to the datalink port under the dash on the drivers side to scan the computers trouble codes and determine which cylinders are misfiring. Disconnect the NEGITIVE Battery Cable and leve it unplugged for 30 seconds, plug it back up - and it will go out it means your On Board Diagnostic System has detected a problem. there are hundreds of codes it can tell you, each one means something else. If you have a local autozone, go there and they can tell you what the code you are throwing means. Answer Go to auto zone and get an OBD 2 test done and they will tell you what is wrong. it could be any thing.The test is free! Answer More than likely it is the Check Engine Light. Contact you local Ford dealer. Answer Usually it is one of the engine sensors not functioning properly, and the PCM isn't receiving the feedback it needs to control the engine properly. It could be an engine sensor picking up something wrong, or an oxygen sensor before and after the engine. The transmission is another item, that might have a problem and cause the engine light to pop on.

23-25 qts.

The 1998 Corvette is a C5 generation Corvette (1997-2004) and uses a rear-mounted transaxle configuration with a torque tube connecting the engine to the transaxle. This design necessitated a two-tank fuel tank arrangement. Each of the two 9.2 gallon tanks hang like a saddle just behind the rear passenger-compartment bulkhead. The total fuel capacity is 19 gallons, the extra capacity being contained in the filler neck and equalizer tube.

river rouge assembly plant Dearborn, Michigan

For model years 1999-2003, and most likely the entire Freestar / Monterey line too: The entire headlamp actually sits inside of a mounting bracket - this means it is very easy to fully release, and remove the headlamp to make bulb replacement much less *painful*! There are 2 headlight retainer clips to find - they are: 1) black, upside-down L-shaped metal clips about 1/2 inch wide 2) located just behind the top edge of the headlamp glass, inside the engine compartment. Release and pull the clips upward. The headlamp assembly will now pull forward providing great access to the electrical connector and bulb retainer ring. Picking up the *removal* instructions from the manual: * 3. Pull headlamp assembly forward disengaging the lamp from the rear retainer to expose the back of the bulb. * 4. Disconnect the electrical connector from the bulb by pulling rearward. * 5. Remove the bulb retaining ring by rotating it counterclockwise (when viewed from the rear) to free it from the bulb socket, and slide the ring off the plastic base. Keep the ring to retain the new bulb. * 6. Without turning, remove the old bulb from its socket by gently pulling it straight back out of the lamp assembly. (You may have to wiggle it side-to-side a little while pulling rearward.) Installing the new bulb: NOTE: DO NOT TOUCH THE GLASS OF THE NEW BULB! The oil from your hand could cause the bulb to break the next time the headlamps are operated. # With the flat side of the new bulb's plastic base facing upward, insert the glass end of the bulb into the lamp assembly. Turn (rotate) the bulb left or right to align the grooves in the plastic base with the tabs in the lamp assembly. When the grooves are aligned, push the bulb into the lamp assembly until the plastic base contacts the rear of the lamp assembly. # Install the bulb retain ring over the plastic base until contacts the rear of the socket by rotating clockwise until you feel a "stop." # Connect the electrical connector into the rear of the plastic base unti it snaps, locking it into position. # Install the headlamp on the vehicle by aligning the lamp with the rear retainer, push rearward and secure with two retainer pins. # Turn the headlamps on and make sure they work properly. If the headlamp was correctly aligned before you changed the bulb, you should NOT need to align it again. With the cable unplugged, look at the back of the bulb assembly. You will see a small ring with three raised "ears". Rotate this counterclockwise about 120 degrees, and the 3 small square tabs under the ring can slip through the ring itself. Remove the ring. The bulb assembly is now exposed. Pull it straight back (away from you) to remove it. It has a rubber ring on the new bulb to seal the entire assembly from water. Do NOT remove the large rubber ring that goes around the retainer ring that you removed in the previous step. With the old bulb assembly removed, open the package for the new bulb. CAUTION: Do NOT touch the bulb itself. Fingertip oil, even very slight, can cause the bulb to fail very quickly. Holding the new bulb by the base, you will see 3 small detents (two of them rather close together, and the other on the opposite side of the base). Line these up with the corresponding marks on the headlight bezel assembly, and then push the bulb assembly gently into place. Once inserted, take the ring from the step above, slide it over the back of the bulb assembly and ensuring that the 3 square black tabs go through the square holes in the ring. Then, twist the ring clockwise about 120 degrees, using the "ears", until the ring is fully engaged. Check that you the square tabs are on the outside of the ring (it's easy to miss one, so that only two of the tabs are engaged - this can result in the bulb being loose). Just changed one on mine. Its easy. Under the hood there is a locking ring of sorts holding the lamp in place. Just grab two of the three knobs on this ring and give it a quarter turn. The locking ring pops off and the lamp assembly can be removed. Lift the plastic tab on the lamp holder and pull off the lamp socket. Reinstall in oposite order. Be sure not to touch the glass portion of the new lamp with your fingers -- wear gloves. The oil from your skin will shorten the lamp life if you do. It is possible to release the headlamp so it pulls out, making access to the connector (described above) much easier: NOTE: This procedure is detailed & illustrated in the Owner's Manual that came with the car, approximately page 246. The entire headlamp acutally sits inside of a mounting bracket - this means it is very easy to fully release, and remove the headlamp to make bulb replacement much less *painful*! There are 2 headlight retainer clips to find - they are: 1) black, upside-down L-shaped metal clips about 1/2 inch wide 2) located just behind the top edge of the headlamp glass, inside the engine compartment. Release and pull the clips upward. The headlamp assembly will now pull forward providing great access to the electrical connector and bulb retainer ring. The following applies to 1999 - 2003 Windstars. Chances are these steps also apply to the Freestar and Mercury Monterey. The entire headlamp housing assembly sits inside of a mounting bracket - this means it is very easy to fully release, and remove the headlamp to make bulb replacement much less *painful*! There are 2 headlight retainer clips to find - they are: black, upside-down L-shaped metal clips about 1/2 inch wide located just behind the top edge of the headlamp glass, inside the engine compartment. Release by pulling the top towards you while pulling the clips upward. The headlamp assembly will now pull forward providing great access to the electrical connector and bulb retainer ring. Once you've pulled the entire headlight assembly outwards toward yourself, there is a small clip molded into the plug that has to clear the corresponding tab on the bulb assembly itself. You can pull it up SLIGHTLY while you pull the connector straight back (away from you) to remove the cable. Do not break the plastic clip - you only need to raise it about 1/16th inch to clear the tab. With the cable unplugged, look at the back of the bulb assembly. You will see a small ring with three raised "ears". Rotate this counterclockwise about 120 degrees, and the 3 small square tabs under the ring can slip through the ring itself. Remove the ring. The bulb assembly is now exposed. Pull it straight back (away from you) to remove it. It has a rubber ring on the new bulb to seal the entire assembly from water. Do NOT remove the large rubber ring that goes around the retainer ring that you removed in the previous step. With the old bulb assembly removed, open the package for the new bulb. CAUTION: Do NOT touch the bulb itself. Fingertip oil, even very slight, can cause the bulb to fail very quickly. Holding the new bulb by the base, you will see 3 small detents (two of them rather close together, and the other on the opposite side of the base). Line these up with the corresponding marks on the headlight bezel assembly, and then push the bulb assembly gently into place. Once inserted, take the ring from the step above, slide it over the back of the bulb assembly and ensuring that the 3 square black tabs go through the square holes in the ring. Then, twist the ring clockwise about 120 degrees, using the "ears", until the ring is fully engaged. Check that you the square tabs are on the outside of the ring (it's easy to miss one, so that only two of the tabs are engaged - this can result in the bulb being loose). Once locked in place with the ring, reattach the cable (the "D" shape of the plug matches the back of the bulb assembly), and press it into place until the small plastic clip goes up and over the tab on the bulb base, locking the cable in place. Push the headlight bezel assembly back into place, push the "L" shaped metal tabs back into place (straight down, until they click), and test the light. NOTE: This procedure is detailed & illustrated in the Owner's Manual that came with the car, approximately page 246. The following applies to 1999 - 2003 Windstars. Chances are these steps also apply to the Freestar and Mecury Monterey. The entire headlamp housing assembly sits inside of a mounting bracket - this means it is very easy to fully release, and remove the headlamp to make bulb replacement much less *painful*! There are 2 headlight retainer clips to find - they are: # black, upside-down L-shaped metal clips about 1/2 inch wide # located just behind the top edge of the headlamp glass, inside the engine compartment. Release by pulling the top towards you while pulling the clips upward. The headlamp assembly will now pull forward providing great access to the electrical connector and bulb retainer ring. Once you've pulled the entire headlight assembly outwards toward yourself, there is a small clip molded into the plug that has to clear the corresponding tab on the bulb assembly itself. You can pull it up SLIGHTLY while you pull the connector straight back (away from you) to remove the cable. Do not break the plastic clip - you only need to raise it about 1/16th inch to clear the tab. With the cable unplugged, look at the back of the bulb assembly. You will see a small ring with three raised "ears". Rotate this counterclockwise about 120 degrees, and the 3 small square tabs under the ring can slip through the ring itself. Remove the ring. The bulb assembly is now exposed. Pull it straight back (away from you) to remove it. It has a rubber ring on the new bulb to seal the entire assembly from water. Do NOT remove the large rubber ring that goes around the retainer ring that you removed in the previous step. With the old bulb assembly removed, open the package for the new bulb. CAUTION: Do NOT touch the bulb itself. Fingertip oil, even very slight, can cause the bulb to fail very quickly. Holding the new bulb by the base, you will see 3 small detents (two of them rather close together, and the other on the opposite side of the base). Line these up with the corresponding marks on the headlight bezel assembly, and then push the bulb assembly gently into place. Once inserted, take the ring from the step above, slide it over the back of the bulb assembly and ensuring that the 3 square black tabs go through the square holes in the ring. Then, twist the ring clockwise about 120 degrees, using the "ears", until the ring is fully engaged. Check that you the square tabs are on the outside of the ring (it's easy to miss one, so that only two of the tabs are engaged - this can result in the bulb being loose). Once locked in place with the ring, reattach the cable (the "D" shape of the plug matches the back of the bulb assembly), and press it into place until the small plastic clip goes up and over the tab on the bulb base, locking the cable in place. Push the headlight bezel assembly back into place, push the "L" shaped metal tabs back into place (straight down, until they click), and test the light. NOTE: This procedure is detailed & illustrated in the Owner's Manual that came with the car, approximately page 246.

Fuse info... For 1999-2003, fuse #3 protects the outside mirrors. I have a 2000 Windstar SE, and just had to remove the door panel to replace the lock actuator. Here are the steps I took: Windstar: Removing Inner Door Panel - Remove two screws from bottom of door. - Carefully pop triangular black fascia from upper front corner (pry from top with flat head screwdriver), then remove screw behind it. - Pop trim piece from inner door handle (pry from front) - Pop power lock/window panel loose (pry around), then unplug switches. - Remove two screws very deeply inset on armrest. - Gently lift upward and outward on door inner. Once you have a gap, twist and release the light socket in the inner door panel. - If removing lock assembly, unscrew the three nuts holding the outer door handle, then remove it from the outside. - Disconnect the two electrical connectors from the lock assembly if removing. I do not know what year you have but I have a 1999 WS and you have to replace the whole assembly (framework and motor, motor is not sold seperatly). You will need to remove the door panel and all mounting bolts for the framework. The whole thing will then slide out (not easily) through the cut outs on the door. Replace with the new unit just like the old one was removed. This will take two people. One person will need to hold the window while the other is working with the assembly. I replaced mine with much cussing and swearing in about 2 hours. It is not a hard job just aggravating. Glass only replacement Be sure to check out the "Related Questions" regarding replacing just the glass in a mirror. Good option in certain situations. Rough Pricing Ebay show power / heated mirrors, brand new starting at $48 and up. (April 09) Note: I changed the mirror on the passenger door, but most of these instructions apply to either side. Tools you will need: Large flathead screwdriver, Philips screwdriver, needle-nosed pliers, socket wrench with 7/16-inch socket. The mirror is held on by three nuts on the inside of the door. Getting to two of them is quite easy -- it's the third one that requires taking off the interior door panel, as mentioned below. If you are moderately handy with tools, you can do it yourself. Otherwise, take it to a mechanic. Also, it helps to have a second person available. 1. Roll down the window and open the van door in question. Pop off the black plastic cover at the top and front of the door panel by prying gently on the top of the cover with a large flathead screwdriver. The cover is held in place by three metal tension clips. This uncovers one of the mirror nuts. 2. Just forward of the door panel, you will find a round rubber plug. Pull this out of its hole to reveal nut #2. 3. Gently pry off the black plastic cover that surrounds the interior door handle. It is held in place by three metal tension clips. As it comes loose, slip it off over the door handle. (This is the one step where the driver and passenger doors are different. On the driver's door, the electric mirror control is mounted in this black plastic cover. You will probably need to disconnect a small wire harness from the back of this control in order to completely remove the cover, or just leave it dangling by the wires.) 4. Gently pry up the front end of the lighter-colored plastic piece to which the electric window and lock switches are mounted. Once the front is loose, pull the piece forward to fully loosen it. It can be left sitting loosely with the wires still attached. 5. You have now uncovered a Philips-head screw just where the switch carrier meets the armrest in the door panel. This screw attaches the door panel to the door. Remove it. 6. There are two Philips-head screws at the very bottom of the door panel. Remove them. 7. The door panel is now free and is being held in place because it is hooked over the window opening. Carefully lift up the panel, clearing the lock post, and pull the panel away from the door. You do not need to remove it fully but can find a way to rest it on the door. 8. You have now uncovered the third and final mirror nut -- it may be hidden behind another rubber plug like you removed in step 2. 9. About 8 inches below this third nut, you will find the connection for the mirror wire harness. Disconnect the wire harness and push the loose end into the door. 10. Remove the three mirror nuts with a socket wrench and 7/16-inch socket. The mirror will probably need to be pried away from the door because the foam sealant material has it stuck on. Once the mirror comes fully free, carefully pull the wire harness out of the door. 11. Follow these steps in reverse (more or less) to install the new mirror and replace the panel and other trim pieces (don't forget the rubber plug that ends up under the door panel!). you have to pull off the door panel first. the are plastic pieces that need to be pried off and screws that are hidden. i would suggest taking it to a shop and let them do it. they shouldn't charge you more than $50 (independent shop) $100 (dealership). the pieces that can and will break are much more expensive. first you will need to remove the door panel. Then you see behind the mirror on the door 3 nuts to remove and if electric you will need to unplug the jack first. Not sure if it will be the same for the 2000 Windstar. I changed the whole mirror assembly on my 98 passanger side. There are 3 nuts holding the assembly on the door. You must first remove the inside door panel by removing the cover around the door opener handle. There is a screw behind it once that is removed you can remove the panel by lifting up on the panel. you can then unplug the power window and lock buttons if you like( it does make it easier). then you have access to the nuts holding the mirror assembly one once you remove the little black rubber plugs. Unplug the power mirror cable and then reinstall the new one in the opposite order as the removal. . New Headline On my 2000 Windstar, there were 4 hex headed screws that I needed to remove with a 9/32" nut driver. Two were in the bottom of the door handle. One was near the bottom rear corner of the door and the other was under a black plastic trapezoid shaped piece (about 3" x 5") near the top front of the door (on the inside of the car, opposite the mirror). I carefully pried the black plastic piece off as it just snaps in place. The door panel could then be removed by lifting up and towards the back of the car. The two power connectors near the middle of the panel unplug by depressing a tab on them and the courtesy light near the bottom rear of the door panel can be removed by twisting counter clockwise. There are 3 nuts holding on the mirror assembly, two of which are under black plastic/rubber hole-filler grommets. Be careful not to drop the nuts down in the door panel! I used an 11mm socket with a magnet to keep the nuts from dropping. The power connector for the mirror motor/heater is under some white foam sound proofing. I peeled back a portion of it to expose the power connector. After unplugging the connector, I tied a piece of sturdy string to the old power connector before removing the mirror so that the string "fished" through the door panel as I removed the mirror and cord. I then untied the string from the old connector and tied it onto the new mirror's connector and pulled the cord back through the door panel. I think it would be very difficult otherwise to get the connector back through the door panel. The remainder of the installation was just a reverse of the removal. MirrorGlassPlus.com offers replacement mirror glass which is an exact match to your existing factory mirror. That means it will have the same size, shape, bend and features as your existing factory mirror. Installation is always quick and easy, typically taking about 30 minutes. * Smooth seamed edges for safe handling * First-surface chrome reduces glare * Part# lasered on every mirror * Protective safety-orange packaging * Installation guide printed right on the box * Includes Redi Stick® adhesive patches

The heater core is located inside the passenger compartment behind the glove box. Remove the glove box liner by removing about 6 screws. Unscrew the heater core cover and you can then see the heater core. Inside the engine compartment you will be able to see where the two hoses connect to the heater core. Disconnect these and with a little wiggling, the heater core will come out. ------------------------------------------------------------- *** Caution *** Never open, service or drain the radiator or cooling system when hot; serious burns can occur from the steam and hot coolant. Also when draining engine coolant, keep in mind that cats and dogs are attracted to ethylene glycol antifreeze and could drink ant that is left in an uncovered container or in puddles on the ground. This will prove fatal in sufficient quantities. Always drain coolant into a sealable container. Coolant should be reused unless it is contaminated or is several years old. Heater Core 1. Disconnect the battery ground cable 2. Drain and recycle the engine coolant. 3. Remove the instrumental panel. 4. If equipped with the 5.4L 4V engine, remove the junction block splash shield. 5. If equipped with the 5.4L 4V engine, remove the bolts and disconnect the cable ends from the starter relay. 6. If equipped with the 5.4L 4V engine, remove the junction block bracket. 7. Disconnect the heater core hose couplings. 8. Remove the retaining screw and remove the A/C plenum demister adapter. 9. Disconnect the vacuum line from the A/C plenum demister adapter. 10. Remove the heater core bracket. 11. Remove the 13 plenum chamber top retaining screws. 12. Remove the plenum chamber top. 13. Remove the blend door assembly from the case. 14. Remove the heater core. 15. The installation is the reverse of the removal.

According to the Owners Manuals: 1996 Windstar 3.0 & 3.8: 4.5 quarts - 5w30* 1997 Windstar 3.0 & 3.8: 4.5 quarts - 5w30* 1998 Windstar 3.0 & 3.8: 4.5 quarts - 5w30* 1999 Windstar 3.0 engine: 4.5 quarts 3.8 engine: 5.0 quarts 2000 Windstar 3.8: 5.0 quarts - 5w30* 2001 Windstar 3.8: 5.75 quarts - 5w20 2002 Windstar 3.8: 5.0 quarts - 5w20 2003 Windstar 3.8: 5.0 quarts - 5w20 (synthetic blend) *Note: Ford issued a TSB (technical service bulletin TSB 02-1-9) regarding the 5w20 superseding 5w30 Owners Manual specifications. Applies to all Windstars back to 1995. See "Related Links" or search on FORD TSB 02-1-9 for more details. NOTE: It is always best to refer to the Owners Manual that came with the vehicle to ensure the information is correct to that specific car. Answer normally 5W-30 10W-30 is also acceptable if you live in a very hot climate area. Answer Any Oil that you like... Personally I like Valvoline... they do make a Valvoline Max Life Oil that is made for vehicles with 75000 miles or more on it... don't use Quakerstate... I've heard some big stories coming from mechanics about that oil... one mechanic removed the valve cover to check something with the rocker arms, and he had to use a screw driver and hammer to chip at that oil and he actually lifed it off the head... so Valvoline is probably the very best oil for any vehicle. Motorcraft 5w20, synthetic blend. Good news is this is a very affordable product, and I don't hesitate to let it run the entire 5,000 mile change schedule. Check the Owners Manual for more detail... See "Related Links" or search on FORD TSB 02-1-9 for more details. FORD TSB 02-1-9 5w20 Oil Recommend - PDF file*http://fcsdchemicalsandlubricants.com/supplier/tsb/0219.pdf 5w20 semi-synthetic motor oil is what the owners manual calls for. The transmission takes Mercon V It would depend on which size motor and oil pan it has. With the standard 6 cylinder engine, with the standard factory oil pan which is the most likely unless modifications has been done. The oil capacity should be 4.5 quarts without filter change. Last I changed the oil in my windstar with oil filter change it took 5.0 quarts of oil. Start with 4.5 quarts if you change the oil filter also. And then check oil. If the level is below the full mark, add another half quart of oil to the engine oil. my 2002 holds 5 qts. with a oil filter 5 w 30 ( according to the owners manual ) 5.75 quarts of 5w20. ( 5 w 30 ) according to the owners manual The oil capacity is approximaly 5.4 quarts of oil. Install 5 quarts and check level on dipstick. Answer the 3.0L uses 4.5 qts. while the 3.8 uses 5 qts Answer My owners manual says for the 3.8l engine, it is 5.75, including filter. My experience agrees with the extra .75 quart! :) The 2003 Ford Windstar owners manual shows ( 5 quarts with filter change ) of engine oil for your 3.8 liter - V6 engine ( 5 w 30 ) is the preferred oil according to the Owner Guide

There is no such thing lol

Here are opinions and answers from contributors: Tires out of balance or the "bushings" (not sure the technical term) are worn in the steering system. It could be faulty steering dampers. This is a shock that crosses from left to right connecting to tie rod ends. The shock is very firm and you will not be able to actuate it by hand if working properly. usually causes left to right steering oscillation at low to mid speeds. Warped brake rotors for cars with front disk brakes. The rotor hits the caliper every tire rotation causing a small bump in the steering wheel each time. Your tires might need to be rotated and balanced. In my "94" Intrepid it was worn out rubber isolaters which the bolts on the rack & pinion steering mounted through on the firewall. It was noticed at speeds over 35mph & resulted in feeling a violent shaking of the front tires felt through the steering wheel. Check tires should be balanced, alingned or probably a bent front tire. Most of the time its only bad front tires now the one guy was right it can be bad brake rotors but what he didnt tell you is there is 2 things for that 1 is the steering wheel shaking when you are braking if so then you have warped rotors another thing when you brake does the car pull to the right or the left if so that will determine what rotor is bad and for but if it doesnt shake while braking that could mean your tires are cupped in the front or there not balanced properly. Depends when the wheel shakes. If it is during braking then your rotors are warped. If it is durinig normal driving then yes it could be bent rim, loose/worn suspension components. A balance problem is usually indicated by vibration in the vehicle not usually a shaky steering wheel. It may also be that the steering gear is badly worn which causes greater than normal spaces between the meshing parts. Out of balance wheels, bent rim, shifted belt in tire or other defect in tire including irregular wear (tire rotation under these conditions will on move the vibration felt), loose lug nuts, worn inner tie rod end bushings like mentioned on Chrysler product above, loose mounted or internal play in the rack and pinion steering gear. Wheel Alignment or Front end Alignment will not cause a vibration. CV joint could cause this. Or a bent rim, which balancing will not fix. Check the lug nuts on all your tires. That did it for me. Shaking could also occur from camber being ofset as well as all! The other answers given above. Just had the same thing and it turned out to be worn struts which had caused my tire to wear unevenly (flattening one side of the tire). That caused shimmy at higher speeds. Also try new CV boots or a driveshaft replacement

Check your idle control valve on top of intake it has a small elect motor with a wire connected all fords build up carbon even have throttle sticking or hard to push slightly tap with screwdriver end while eng running then shift gears if this helps its temporary needs a 2 step fuel injection service where intake is flush out carbon and also cleans your 100k spark plugs i recomd this every 15k miles however im not a certified mechanic all though i play one on tv.lol

Look at the upper end of the clutch pedal under the dash area Look at the upper end of the clutch pedal under the dash area Look at the upper end of the clutch pedal under the dash area

Here are 10 easy steps! 1. Ok, pop the hood. 2. Now look down into the front corner of the engine compartment to where the headlight is. You will see a black assembly tucked up in the fender. Yes you can access the inner fender from the engine compartment. The whole headlight assembly is close to 8" long. Since the driver side light is more interesting we will do that one. Yes you can get the drivers die headlamp out without touching the battery. I replaced the driver's side low beam lamp without removing the battery. Before trying to do the next step of the black lever you must release the metal clamp flip the small coat hanger looking shaped like an M up this releases the metal strap around the headlight assembly bucket now prees the button next to the lever the button has a crosshatch design on the small button about a half inch by quarter inch. You must find the button if you try to move the black lever up without pusing in the small button you will break the lever and then you will be off to VW to buy a new headlight bucket asembly. In my '99 Beetle there is a lever that sticks out of the headlamp assembly shield. Lifting up on the lever rotates a ring that unlocks two posts on the headlamp assembly. It can now slide straight out of the fender. The assembly rides on three tracks left side, right side and bottom.) 3. There is a black metal strap and clasp around the assembly with a metal clip on it. The clip flips back and opens up. There is also a black plastic lever sticking out of the assembly. Next the clasp and metal strap you will notice the lever that expels the light assembly. Mine was curved indicating that you pull up on it. As you do so the lever slides you will see the headlight start to come out of the fender. 4. Once the lever is up as far as it can go you can pull the headlight assembly out of the front of the fender carefully. This was a bit messy since the caulking on our 98 was starting to go and the dealership had put some goo around it to stop leaks I think. The light assembly in our case did take some coaxing to get it to slide out and we had to play with it for awhile, but it did finally come out. 5. On the back you unplug the wires. 6. There is a plastic cap that comes off and you can access the headlight bulbs 7. After the housing is off, you will notice the lamp connector. There is a spring or hasp that keeps the lamp in the housing. 8. We had to change the low beam lamp (the one on the top of the assembly), so once the clip was removed the lamp can be pulled out of the assembly.. 9. Once the lamp is pulled out you are almost done. The lamp is connected to the wires with a blade type connector. Just wiggle it from side to side to remove it. Take the new bulb (DO NOT TOUCH THE GLASS ON THE NEW LAMP, if you do it will be ruined and you will be replacing it shortly). Once you placed the new lamp in, you can follow the instructions in the reverse order to put things back together. 10. When you are totally done, before you hook the battery back up and totally button things up, try the new light out quickly to make sure its working. All done. Answer Beetle headlight bulbs are changed by taking the whole headlight assembly out. It is locked in place by a sliding(rotating) retaining ring at the back of the headlight. The ring is released by pressing a button next to the ring handle. It is not difficult but ripping out the headlight can be a bit "scary"the first time. Please look at the procedure, with images, at www.newbeetle.org Answer Go to this link..... www.newbeetle.org is by far the best place for New Beetle problems. PICTURES AND ALL http://www.newbeetle.org/forums/showthread.php?t=171 Answer Neil, Try this link, it worked for me when I replaced the headlight on my wife's beetle. T Answer New Beetle � Headlight and Bulb Replacement Those of you who have owned a New Beetle since �98 or �99 may have already experienced a burned-out headlight bulb. As you have found out, these are totally different in concept than the old Beetle cousins. The only similarity, if you call it that, is the general look of the headlight with the big "bug-eye" lens. Instead of replacing an entire sealed-beam headlight, you only replace a small lightbulb, just like any other modern car out there today. Not only that, but there are two bulbs � one for the low beam and a separate one for the high beam. The reflector, likewise, is made in two sections. One section is the projector portion (the lens on the top) that carries the low beam. The high beam bulb is below it, and you can see this bulb plainly. Hopefully, none of you New Beetle owners have had to, or need to, replace an entire headlight assembly (read � expensive!). However, if complete replacement is necessary, don�t fret. Since you have to take the entire headlight assembly out just to change a bulb, this will be covered in the article as well. You will not need any tools to do the job (one advantage over the old Beetle!). You may want to have some adhesive remover handy, along with paper towels, some car cleaner/wax, and a soft clean cloth. Both high and low beam bulbs are H1 bulbs. This information can be found in your owner�s manual or the Bentley manual for the New Beetle. Don�t depend on the auto parts store or aftermarket suppliers� catalogs to tell you anything different. When you take out the old bulb, it should have "H1" stamped on the metal base or etched on the glass itself. Low beam is a 55 watt bulb, and high beam is 60 watts. Before you try removing the headlight housings, check for a blown fuse first, since the headlight circuits on these cars are fused. The fuse is located on the regular fuse panel inside the car, on the left side of the dashboard behind the removable cover. Well, since there are no visible screws anywhere around, how do I get the headlight out? It�s not that hard at all. Open the hood. Locate the seam between the nosepiece and the front fender (either side). Go up between the first two fender mounting bolts and look down a few inches. See a small knob sticking out at you? That is a release lever for the headlight assembly. Push in on it slightly and pull all the way up as far as the lever will go. Now push on the headlight from behind with one hand and be prepared to catch the assembly with the free hand from the front. It may take a bit of a push because there is some gooey adhesive between the headlight and the fender. Once you have the headlight out, pull the connector off the back of the housing and take the headlight somewhere where it is easy to work on. Put it on a pillow or something soft so you don�t risk scratching the lens. There is a black plastic cover on the back of the housing. See a tab on it? Push on this tab and pull the cover down to expose the bulbs. There is a metal spring clip that holds these bulbs in place. Undo this and the bulb will fall out. Take out the new bulb and compare it with the one you are replacing. Make sure the wattage is correct, since they are both H1 bulbs. Never touch the glass part of the bulb itself with your fingers. Use the soft cloth to handle the bulb if needed. Line up the tabs of the bulb base with the slots in the reflector housing and drop the bulb in. Put the spring clip back on and make sure the ends of the clip are in securely. Put the bulb cover back on. Now is the time to clean up the mess around the fender where the headlight mounts. Remember seeing that nasty-looking goo seep out from around the rubber seal on your headlights? That�s the adhesive I was talking about earlier. Take the adhesive remover on the paper towels and remove this stuff from the fender before putting the headlight back in. Don�t remove all of it from behind the headlight itself, as it is there to keep excess amounts of water from getting behind the headlight. Just remove enough to where it won�t make a mess anymore. A little wax around the mounting area on the fender will detail things out nicely. Position the headlight up to the fender. Push on the wire connector. Line up the tabs on the headlight assembly to the slots in the headlight housing in the fender and push the whole thing in. Sometimes things won�t line up on the first try, but keep trying. The headlight should go up against the fender fairly easily. Once you get it to this point, grab the release lever, push all the way down, and lock the headlight assembly into place. All you do now is test the lights. That�s it! The headlight aim should not have been affected during this procedure. Some wax or glass cleaner will be good for cleaning the lenses and make them sparkle again. If you have those trick blue bulbs or other colors, always keep a spare bulb handy, of the same color and manufacturer, so you won�t be stuck with odd colors until you get the right replacement. Answer Go to this link..... www.newbeetle.org is by far the best place for New Beetle problems. PICTURES AND ALL http://www.newbeetle.org/forums/showthread.php?t=171 Answer The bulbs screw in from the back. Sometimes you have to remove the light assy. Answer Open the hood and look for the black 'sleeve' that holds the headlight. There is an arm that extends toward the engine. You should see a channel that the arm can slide in that loosens the headlight from the 'sleeve'. IMPORTANT: DEPRESS THE SMALL CROSSHATCHED BUTTON NEXT TO THE ARM. THIS UNLOCKS THE ARM AND ALLOWS IT TO MOVE IN THE CHANNEL. After sliding the arm the full length of the channel, carefully pry the headlight from the fender ... it is tight and requires patience! When the headlight is pulled from the fender, disconnect the wire harness. The headlight is now separated from the car. Remove the black shroud from the back of the headlight. This exposes the bulb connection. Carefully disconnect the clip connection from the back of the bulb, unlock the wire pressure clasp and pull the bulb out. DO NOT TOUCH THE NEW BULB WITH BARE FINGERS - OIL FROM YOUR FINGERS COULD CAUSE THE BULB TO BLOW. Replace the bulb, reconnect the clip connection, replace the wire clasp, replace the black shroud, reconnect the wire harness and slide the headlight back into the fender. Hint: Spray the channel with WD40 to make the replacement easier. When headlight is back in place, slide the arm back into place and you are done ... congratulations! **** This site is by far the best pics with instructions anywhere*** http://www.cindyli.com/site/comments/vw_beetle_headlight_replacement/

I believe that is 17 U.S. gallons for the steel tank

if you break the plastic rivets, use a soda tab for a washer to keep them in place SOME HAVE A PLASTIC RING IN THE CENTER OF BACK OF THE LIGHT THAT UNSCREWS ABOUT A 1/4 TURN & PULL OUT THE CENTER & SHOULD B A SMALL LIGHT BULB(HALOGEN) & DON'T TOUCH THE NEW BULB GLASS OR IT WILL BURN OUT FAST-IF U DO TOUCH IT-CLEAN IT WITH RUBBING ALCHOL. The best and easiest way is to visit autobodytips.net and download a how to video !!!!!!! Go to User Manual at http://www.mygmlink.com/pdf/go2content/manual/US/en/pontiac/2000grandam.pdf Go to section 6 (service and appereance care) and after clic on Bulb Replacement. After clic on Halogen Bulb and read page no. 251 to 254. You'l find picture and explanation.... Open the hood. There are two speed clips directly on the top of the headlight assemblies. Pulls DIRECTLY up on these clips or they will tend to bend. and the assembly should pull out from the front of the car. wala I have a 2001 Grang Am SE and there are no such clips. How can I remove the assembly to replace the bulbs if there are no clips to "pull up" on. Please help. I have a 2002 Grand am and I have the same problem, the owners manual is not correct. ok there are clips but they are under a p--lastic cover that goes althe way across front of hood, Remove those little platic clips. Then you will see these L shaped clips next to these screws that look like little stars that align headlights. what you need to do is use pliers and push back the pulls up on these clips. then the headlight shouls pe able to be pulled out. The plastic clips are rivets that need to be destroyed in order to remove the plastic cover. You cannot buy replacements - GM apparently does not make them any more. The local (Ann Arbor, Michigan) GM store (Jim Bradley) had to put in a different set of rivets that did not quite fit when I had them replace the headlamp after giving up with the manual. The two "quick release" clamps underneath are bolted on securely. These bolts need to be loosened before you can raise them - otherwise, you will (as noted above) just bend the metal when you try to raise them. I've replaced headlamps in a Chrysler and a Ford, but am very frustrated with GM. 1-14-06 My back is sore and GM ears are burning, but I got the job done. This 2001 Grand Am has a black plastic cover over those head light assembly clips. I used pliers to wiggle and remove the plasic rivets that keep the plastic cover in place. Some were maimed a bit, but still worked when I replaced them. The "clips" are near the star shaped screw heads that adjust the headlight beam. They are flat on the top and can be removed by using pliers opened wide; be sure to bend them away as you pull up since there is a metal lip that holds them in place. One clip comes completely out; the other pops up and stays in place. Now the head light assembly slides easily out. Once the bulbs are replaced, the assembly slides back into place. You may have to tinker a bit to get the white plastic blocks (through which those star shaped screws pass) to align with the black plastic slots. Be sure to reward yourself with a cold one or a fine cigar. You have earned it! Holy Cow! Forget the beer - I'm going straight to cocktails!! Thank you to you fine folks for the "speed clip tip" ( speed clip my @$$ )!! As one of those women who like to at least attempt her own basic maintenance, that tip alone was invaluable. I won't tell you how long I studied those stupid things before seriously considering the more expensive route...but I will tell you that once I had the secret, I replaced both lights, had the plastic cover installed and my nails clean in under 30 minutes. As a little aside regarding the fasteners and the retainer rings...just go buy new ones! They're cheap - and you can get them at the dealership. Fasteners are .75 each and the retainer rings are about $12 each. I bought mine before I started,(just in case) and I'm glad I did. Arizona sun is hard on plastic. Couple of the clips broke and the retainer rings have little tabs inside that fall off as soon as they're touched. KEEP the 4 fasteners at the very front - they're bigger than the others and of course nobody at the dealership offered that tidbit. They screw in from the back. You may have to remove the light assy from the car. Open the hood. The headlamp retainer "speed clips" are under the black plastic shield. To remove the shield, remove the little plastic "rivets". These "rivets" have a center pin and an outer housing. Using a flat screwdriver, gently pry up on the center pin. When it is about 1/4 inch up, pull the pin straight up and out with a pliers. Then, using a flat screwdriver, gently pry up on the outer housing of the rivet. It should come up easily. Put the pin back into the rivet housing about 1/4 of an inch and set it aside. There are two different sizes of these rivets, the larger, fatter ones go in the front center of the plastic shield. Once you have all of the plastic rivets removed, take out the plastic shield and set it aside. You can TRY taking out only half of the rivets, but the shield will keep flopping back into place--take all of the rivets out and remove the shield. Look at the headlamp assembly. It has two metal strips that hold it in place, located behind the star-shaped screws. These are the "speed clips". The one toward the middle of the car can be removed completely; the one toward the outside of the car pops up, but not out. To pop them up, gently pry the very top backward with a flat blade screwdriver and at the same time, pull up on the top rim with a pliers (or pry up on the rim with another flat blade screwdriver). You must pry them backward because they have a dimple that holds them in place. When the clips are unlocked, the headlamp assembly can be removed by rocking it and rotating the front of the headlamp upward. Do not adjust the star-shaped screws. Good luck with the black plastic ring that holds the headlamp bulb in place; I broke mine. Twist the black plastic ring counter clockwise one quarter turn or so. You can now remove the bulb from the headlamp assembly. Before you do, put on some eye protection goggles. Take the bulb out of the headlamp assembly. Unplug the bulb from the wiring. Discard of the old bulb carefully--halogen bulbs are under pressure and can shatter. Now take the new bulb out of its packaging without touching the glass. Plug it into the wiring. CAREFULLY seat the bulb into the headlamp assembly without touching the bulb's glass. Make sure that it is completely seated. Now carefully replace the black plastic retaining ring and rotate it one quarter turn clockwise to lock the bulb into the headlamp assembly (I broke mine so do this carefully). Re-install the headlamp assembly into the car; start with the headlamp facing up and rotate it down and level as you insert it. Then slide the "speed clips" back into place. They should "click" into place. Make sure that the headlamp is locked into place by the speed clips on both sides. Test the high beams and low beams. Replace the plastic shield using the dirt patterns to guide where it should go over and where it should go under. To replace the plastic rivets (remember the bigger ones are in the center of the car), make sure the pin is only inserted a little way, push the outer housing into the hole, when the outer housing is fully inserted into the hole, push down on the pin until it is seated. Close the hood. Now write a letter to GM about making this process take 30 minutes instead of the 4 minutes it takes on my other car.

6 quarts ( 5.7 liters ) with engine oil filter change , according to the Owner Guide

Check owner's manual. If you don't have one copy and paste link below; www.fleet.ford.com/maintenance/owners_manuals

Roughly 2 cubic yards for a regular cab Although correct, here is a little more detail: The 2013 F150 has three different bed sizes and specs: 5.5 ft. Cargo Box is a total of 55.4 cubic ft. or 2.05 cubic yards. 6.5 ft. Cargo Box is 66.5 cubic ft. or 2.46 cubic yards. 8 ft. Cargo Box, the largest of the three, is 81.3 cubic ft. or 3.01 cubic yards. If you want to know what that means in the real world or how to calculate something for yourself, check this out: http://news.wildcatford.com/2013-ford-f150-payload-capacity/

how to change heater core in 98 suburban

from a licensed ford dealership

Your local auto parts store can sell you brake lines of various length and diameter at a small cost, it is the labor to replace them that will add up.

in the engine compartment in the front above the lights you will see two black tabs. you have to pull them up and then the light pods can be pulled out from the front. then just twist out the light socket and pull out the bulb. you should replace both at the same time

Car Stuck in Park Check Stop lights--if they are not working vehicle will not shift out of "park" check fuse Here are opinions and answers from FAQ Farmers: Check under the shifting mechanism for loose change or other small items that might have gotten stuck between the gears and baseplate. Fixing this only costs time. You may have a safety switch where you have to press the brake it may have gone bad or your ignition switch also has a safety interlock that could have gone bad. Have you ever wondered why you had so much trouble shifting out of PARK on a steep grade? An automatic transmission, when in PARK position, locks the driving wheels. On a steep grade you'll need more than normal pressure to move the shift lever. This is because the transmission's parking pawl resists the vehicle's tendency to roll. The last answer was cut from Parts America.com and I have to add I am looking for more than this answer since until the transmission rebuild two months ago this van has never had a problem on the slight slope of my driveway. I had to push her up the drive way a bit to get the parking paul off the lock. The pawl wears and I have to ask my tranny guy if he replaced those pawls or not. How many thousands of miles does the tranny have - mine has 120,000. Your pawl probably got a groove cut into it because if you don't use your parking brake, hence the name, when parking on ANY incline you put pressure on it and bit by bit wear down the metal. The reason your car would be stuck in park is because you did not use the parking brake. The purpose of a parking brake is to hold the vehicle, many use the transmission to hold the vehicle but then it will evntually result in spending 2,000 dollars on a new transmission. A transmission is made to shift gears, not to hold a vehicle. That's why they call the parking brake, the PARKING brake. Park or P on the gearshift selector means just plain park it is to show that's where you put it when you stop your vehicle and turn it off. If it were to hold the vehicle I would imagine it would say park brake. The way I apply the parking brake is I stop then before putting it in park I FIRMLY apply the parking brake, then put it in park. You need to push it down hard or else it is pointless to use it. Don't forget to let off the foot brake before putting the transmission into park. My steps: 1) Stop vehicle; 2) Firmly set Parking Brake; 3) Put transmission in Neutral; 4) Let off foot brakes (slowly, to make sure Parking Brake is holding); and 5) Put transmission into park. This puts literally no strain on the transmission. My car recently stuck in park, and it turned out all that was wrong was the top of the shifter where you press the button was a little loose. All i had to do to fix it was take off the top of the shifter with the button, and re-fit it on tighter and better, then it worked perfectly fine. (it was an automatic, i don't think you'll have this problem with a stick shift) Here is a site that will help clear things up: http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h18.pdf (You must have Adobe Acrobat Reader to view the inforomation.) It is roughly page three that covers the "shift lock release button" and the shift solenoid. If your vehicle is equipped with a "release" or "overide" button then it is almost certain the problem is with the shift lock solenoid. A failing solenoid can be affected by temperature variations. I hope this will help all that reads; it helped me. My car (Ford Taurus 2000) recently got stuck in parking position (not on a steep hill). I called a technician to give me a tip to take it out. He told me to put the keys in the ignition, turn it HALF WAY so that the lights are not on, motor not running, THEN put the shift to neutral and THEN start the car. It worked and saved my day. I will have the car checked but you can try this in case of emergency I guess. The shift's not getting out of park position may be related to the brake signal. If you have such a problem check if your brake light is working too. It might also be out of order. I simply needed to replace a fuse. I drive a Ford Explorer and had to change fuse listed as "Reverse Park Aid/Shift Change Interlock/IVD Switch". * This happened to me (1995 Tbrd) last night (24 oct 2008), in an empty parking lot. I was "lucky" to have some tools on board so I took off the shifter handle, took apart the console and found where a cable attaches to a locking mechanism that prevents the shifter from moving. The cable would not travel so I disconnected it. Problem resolved (temporairily). I guess that cable goes to the brake and/or ignition switch. To do this you need some screw drivers, small socket (didn't notice the size, about 5/16) and needle nose pliers. I'd never done this before so it took me about an hour to figure out, but at least I got home. I wonder if a 5 minute fuse change would have fixed it??? - The same thing happened to my current car, 99 volkswagen golf..if this is the same model you have, contact Volkswagen. I was told that it was a recall on a safety switch located in the vehicle and to bring it into any dealership and they will fix the problem for free. if you didn't start the car if you didn't apply the brake pedal Or, the shifter assembly has failed.