• 
• 1 answer

No, it won't. Bar's Leaks Rear Main Seal Repair uses compounds which interact with the rubbers and plastics used in the majority of engine oil seals and some gaskets. These are mostly seals around rotating components or shafts, such as o-rings and circular seals. The product coats and swells the rubber in these seals, to get them to seal again after they have been worn down and deformed.

The majority of flat surface gaskets are fiber, and all head gaskets are metal or composition (and even these seal around the cylinders where your leak usually is with metal). Rear Main Seal Repair will have no effect on this material. If the head gasket is leaking coolant, then Bar's Leaks for radiators may solve the problem if it is a minor leak, and is not affected by cylinder compression.

• 
• 1 answer

You can unlock the doors manually if you turn the key far enough. You can then open the hood and provide power to the vehicle with jumper cables and a donor car. If all else fails you can jack the vehicle up, support it on a jack-stand, and attach a red jumper cable to the starter positive red cable where it connects to the starter and then attach black cable to any metal place on the engine. You can use this procedure to charge the battery with either a battery charger for jumper cables from a donor vehicle.

• 
• 1 answer

pop the trunk and right behind where the lights are pull the carpet down and their will be either light sockets that twist and pull,or there will be plastic nuts,just unscrew and take the lens off

• 
• 1 answer

What kind of repair are we talking? However, The cost of replacing a part is a very general question that unless specified exactly is hard to answer. First, is who is replacing the part? Is the Dealer, an independent repair shop, a junkyard, the guy next door or you doing the replacement. These will all yield different prices. Not to mention that within all of these will be different labor rates and different part price mark ups. Second, what is the quality of the part? Is it a name brand, generic (white box, economy), OEM or used part? All of these will be different. Price will even differ between name brands, sometimes significantly. Thirdly, What is the warranty of the part and who is offering the warranty (the shop the parts house or the manufacturer). Limited Lifetime will have restrictions. Lifetime warranty isn�t always the best part either. Fourthly, Each vehicle can have different options that will affect how long it takes to change a part or make it call for a different part. Such as heavy duty cooling system, air conditioning, 4x4�s may have a steel plate that may need removal

In other words, I don't know the answer.

to rebuilt a transmission on a voyager, it costs about $1200, but you can get a rebuilt one for only $850. plus, consider the labor....

• 
• 1 answer

one in the engine compartment and one under the dash (drivers side)

• 
• 1 answer

Air compressor/ dryer assembly is located in front of the power steering reservoir underneath the removable plastic shield that covers the front part of the engine compartment.

• 
• 1 answer

Just below left hand (front of engine compartment) cylinder head.Easiest to access from underneath.Follow the thick red cable at the battery positive post,downward to where it attaches to the starter.

• 
• 1 answer

It is 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8 and 1=2=3=4 are front to back on the pass side. The dist turns counterclockwise.

IT IS ALSO ON THE FAN SHROUD BY THE VACUUM DIAGRAM.

• 
• 1 answer

I ave a 1992 Lincoln Town Car and it's located on the passenger side trunk hinge. It loks like someone wrote it on a pice of paper and taped it there.

If want to change the code because of not knowing it, there is a label inside of the trunk lid "usually" on the hinge arm of the trunk *passenger side*. but in order to change it to some other series of numbers, you'd have to take the car the a Lincoln dealer and pay out the wahoo for anything that they do. Last I heard it was close to $80 an hour for them to do anything :( Anyway hope this helped...

i found the following buried in a cdrom "factory service manual" for '93-94 town car, crown Victoria, & marquis, so far, many things have turned out to be interchangeable between the crownvic and town car that i have been patching up for the last few years. anyway, hope it helps, here is the data.

To program a temporary code, enter permanent code sequence. Within five seconds of pressing last button of permanent code, press the 1/2 button. Enter any alternate five digit code within five seconds of pressing 1/2 button. _______________________________ To unlock the driver door, enter the permanent factory code or the owner's alternate code. This will also disarm the Anti-theft system, if equipped. _____________________________ To unlock the passenger door(s), press the 3/4 button within five seconds of unlocking the driver door or luggage compartment.

To unlock the luggage compartment, press the 5/6 button within five seconds of unlocking driver or passenger door(s).

To turn on the interior lamps, lift either front door handle or press any button on the keypad. All illuminated components will light.

To lock all doors, press the 7/8 and 9/0 buttons at the same time. It is not necessary to enter the key code first. This will turn off courtesy lamps and arm Anti-theft system, if equipped.

to the earlier post, yes its on the trunk hinge for '93 too even tho the factory users guide state that it is on the "deck"

to find in on the control module, you have to pull the glove box out, and remove the module,(mounted on the kick panel with 2 nuts on studs, and 3 wiring plugs) the label is hidden on the backside with the part number

There should also be information in the owner's manual as how to change the code. Otherwise, the information above is also true of a 92 Crown Victoria.

• 
• 1 answer

this requires a special tool to pull back the tensioner to take off the belt, buy this tool at the parts store dont rent it, have them explain how to use it, i promise youll thank me. or let me know you have it and ill help you.

if you don't have a book and 3 hours take it to a shop.

• 
• 1 answer

Two options that I had to do to fix mine.

First Option - Remove the part of the electric motor that is in the trunk. - Get some test leads and make the mechanism turn all the way down to the bottom of the stroke using the cars battery. When you touch the leads to the batter on the connecting clip, the motor will move the mechanism up or down. If it goes the wrong way, reverse the wires - Use your key to unlock the trunk until you can do the Second Option.

Second Option - Go to a junk yard and get all the parts from a dead Town Car. That means everything from the trunk lid (switch, solenoid, etc...) and from the inside of the trunk. You won't need the lock because you can still use the old one. - Replace your broken stuff with the stuff from the junk yard. Cost - about $10 - $15. If you go to a Lincoln dealer, be prepared to pay over $150.

Tools you will need: Small sockets, maybe a screw driver, and test leads.If the only problem is not closing fully there are a couple of other options.One is to loosen the bolts holding the lower latch in place and adjusting them to their limits. They should have adjustment play side-to-side and up-and-down.Another action that has worked for me, especially when installing a lower latch from another vehicle, is to turn the threaded latch rod (worm gear) up or down as required before installation/reinstallation. This establishes a new start point for the travel of the lower latch during closure. This is a trial and error procedure as the two latches must also hook up for closure..By the way, a cadillac latch will also work.

MY MOTOR WAS GOOD< SWITCH WAS BAD..........

I have a 93 Town with same issue. After troubleshooting it I found the motor was fine but the switch on the motor assembly was the problem. Part Nr. 16601101. I did some searching on the internet but could not locate a replacement. I drilled out the brass rivets, opened it up and cleaned all the contacts. It was easy to see the problem -17 years of dust/dirt/wear. It's now working again. Not sure how long it will last. Some of the contact strips inside were a bit worn. I'll have to hunt up a new switch next time it goes.

• 
• 1 answer

Remove the vinyl trim panel above the radiator by pulling straight up (Velcro attachment). There are two flat blades that pull vertically upward to release each headlight. After blade removal pull the headlight forward.

• 
• 1 answer

Find a thin piece of steel like metal banding used in industry to band pallets together,. Cut about a 8 inch length and bend the end about 1.16 of an inch slide it down like you would a jimmie for opening car dorr and when it catches start pressing the eject button with slight pressure. It will poop out. More than likely you have change that has fallen down into the bottom fo the CD player

• 
• 1 answer

It is on the right side of the glove box it is kind of hidden.

• 
• 1 answer

• 
• 1 answer

It means the Left Side Radiator Primary Crash Sensor Feed/Return Circuit Open. Broken wire, a disconnected wire, or something where the circuit path is not making a good connection.

• 
• 1 answer

Pcm

For all my fellow continental owners i feel your pain, but you love your car right?? its the fuel pump regulator switch. you may also want to replace your fuel filter. the part is about 100$ plus labor. good luck!

That answer is not correct I also replaced the FPDM (fuel pump driver module) and other components. I had this exact problem and spent LOTS of money to discovery that the connector that is on top the transmission near the battery tray had gotten too hot and melted causing a main power feed to most sensors and the PCM (computer) to lose power! any one that needs a diagram and instructions on how to repair can e-mail me: garyalcorn@yahoo.com

• 
• 1 answer

Just put a socket on the tensioning pulley and it will lossen the drive belt nope....wrong answer, socket and rachet wont have clearance. this is a lincoln, not a chevy...

a standard wrench (either 15 mm or 5/8 in. ), using the box-end of the wrench, place it on the tensioner pulley mount bolt (you will need a very long wrench to move the AC line up against the fender while you fit the wrench onto the pulley, you want the wrench placed in a 12:30-1:00 o'clock position), with wrench in place as mentioned, you will take the very long wrench used to move the AC line, and place the boxed-end of the long wrench onto the open-end of the wrench on the pulley. if you dont understand how this works, ask a handyman/mechanic to show you how to use the long wrench as leverage. idea is you dont have room for any other manner except to go buy a tool for this that costs 80.00 usd.

second thing to consider is this: on the plastic plate covering the radiator and fan should be a CALIFORNIA EMISSIONS sticker, if not, then you have a federal vehicle, I.E., out of state. the two models of this year use different belts. hint:federal has ONLY ONE serpentine belt, other has smaller serpentine plus one v-belt.

SOURCE:BACK-YARD MECHANIC AND OWNER OF THIS FINE AUTOMOBILE (AT LEAST AFTER I FINISH RESTORING IT)...

• 
• 1 answer

I answered my own question. I started unscrewing things to get the CD changer out of the console. Once it was free I took the outside case off of the CD changer so I could see the guts. I manually moved things around when I noticed there was a penny in the bottom of the changer. I removed the penny, pressed the re;ease button and the magazine popped up. Now, I could still hear my motor working but the CD's not being released. If you don't hear your motor in the CD changer running when you press the release button you may have a different problem. From what I understand, change getting caught in the CD changer is a very common problem. I needed a screwdriver shaped liked a star to remove a lot of the screws. Again it may be different on a Windstar. Good Luck. I hope this hepled.

• 
• 1 answer

If it is a raw fuel smell, it means that you have a leak. Have it checked out, or if it is just the eexhaust from other cars, someone who is familiar with the a/c system can keep the fresh air door from opening.

I fixed the problem by replacing a malfunctioning "idle air bypass valve." They cost around $150, are easy to find at any major autoparts store, and are very very easy to install.

• 
• 1 answer

Check behind the trunk liner. Remove appropriate bolts until light panel(s) loosen. Remove light panels and look for burned lights (remember to check wrap-around light at corners).

• 
• 1 answer

5x114.5 or 5x4.5, they are the same pattern one is in mm and the other in inches. This was the size for '68-'72 Lincoln MarkIII and Continental.

• 
• 1 answer

Hopefully this helps. I have no actual knowledge of the Lincoln, but as with most other vehicles there is a tube with a dipstick in the engine bay for checking the transmission fluid level.

You get a transmission funnel and pour the fluid in through the dipstick tube.

To check for proper level most cars need to be at operating temperature.

Overfill is as bad as not enough fluid.

Doug

Just an added note:

On the Driver's side of the car, there is a dipstick near the firewall (or back of the engine) that is black in color. It doesn't stick up very high, and can be a little hard to see. I have a 1994 Lincoln, and I am pretty sure yours is located in the came place as mine.

... Jay

• 
• 1 answer

This answer depends on what year you're talking about. A generic guide is below:

Remove tension on the belt tensioner and slip the belt off the pulley. The tensioner is the spring loaded mechanisim on a pulley that holds pressure on the belt. Use caution on reinstalling the belt, makesure you replace the belt exactly the same way it came off or you could turn a pulley in reverse and cause your engine to heat up or not charge.

There are links in related links.

• 
• 1 answer

Need more info.