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The factory recommended engine oil viscosity for a 2006 Nissan Quest is 5W30. You'll need about 4.5 quarts.

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to install freon in your 98 lumina you will need to purchase the freon (r134a) and a hose kit from your local parts store. from there, locate the low pressure side of your ac system, usually by the radiator, but sometimes next to the condenser. The hose will only fit on one, so if it doesnt fit on the first you find, find the other. Then, with the car running and the ac on full punture the can and allow freon to enter the system.. That's it!

THE 98 WOULD USE R34 AND CAN BE FOUND AT SOME OF THE AUTO PARTS STORES. THEY ALSO SELL A ADAPTER TO SCREW ONTO THE INLET OR SUCTION SIDE OF THE SYSTEM. INSTROCTIONS COME WITH THE FREON

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If they go hissssssss when drive

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I just did this last weekend... it is not real easy but is NOT impossible.. You just have to get a medium sized extension and you need like a knuckle type reducer or attchment for your plug socket that has adjustable angles... i was initially worried i would not be able to get enough torque but had no problem. use the housing as a guide for the angle of your wrench and take note of the plug boot's angle when you remove the boot... after the boot is removed you can actually see the plug from the left side (passenger side) of the engine... hope it helps.. also be careful of your brake lines while changing this plug..

In addition to the previous answer - try to get the OEM spark plug removing tool. It's usually included with the truck in one set with a hydrolic jack lift. It looks like a tube. There are two of those one is shorter. Use it. Good luck.

The above is correct - the factory kit is Nissan's kindness to us DIY'ers. The short pipe is good for #6 and the angled rod with one end flattened is part of it - I unbolted the wire retainer so I could get 180 degrees per turn. So easy with the factory tools. The long pipe works well for the other cylinders. Once I realized I had the right tools, the job was relaxing and my new iridium plugs went in quickly.

A few things to add. I found it helpful to remove the hood first. That way you can just climb up onto the engine compartment to get a much better angle of attack. There are four bolts that hold the hood on. Don't forget to disconnect the windshield washer line before removing the hood. Also, there is a tab on the intake manifold that marks where the plug is. When trying to get the tool on the plug, angle the tool slightly toward the front of the vehicle.

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Please refer to http://npora.ipbhost.com for details. Just ask. To replace the water pump it will take a little bit of time u also have to remove the timing belt to reach the water pump. You first need to start by taking the upper and lower radiator hoses off, then the Fan Shrould. Then the fan and all belts. Then looking strait at the engine their will be a ventalation hose on the valve cover on the Passenger side that runs to the intake remove that also after all is removed then you can take the timing belt cover off and before u touch the timing belt get some white out and mark the timing belt where it sits on the Crank and Cam Shafts. After all that the u can remove the timing belt look the timing belt over good u may want to go ahead and replace it at this time i would but the decision is all you'rs. After all is removed u can access the water pump. Good luck

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If you are going up a hill and you hear your car start to sputter or stall out.

If it is an electric fuel pump, turn on the key and listen in the gas fill, u can here it running for a brief time after the key is turned on.

first, i need to know if it is electrical or mechanical? if electrical,& in the tank of car, it will just stop working. if it is outside of tank it will not make any noise if it is bad! it should buzz or vibrate (really soft)if it is working correctly. if mechanical, like on old Chevy small blocks it will "clatter" a little before going out.

Simple, attach a fuel pressure gauge to the fuel line that goes to the carb or tbi. Fuel pressure should be in range with manufacture specs. If it isn't get a new one.

Replace the fuel pump as regular routine maintainance. It is just good sense to do so especially if the engine has high milage. It is much easier to replace it at home in the driveway instead of on the highway in the middle of nowhere. . John In Montana

Hey Dan==There is another view on this question. I have a '93 Buick Roadmaster with 120,000 miles with the original pump on it. It depends if you want to take the chance. It depends on the make of your car too as the chev trucks have a high failure rate. Good luck, Joe

Be it an older mechanical pump or a newer electric pump, the best way in either case is a fuel pressure gauge. Be careful, the newer electric pumps (FI systems) are under higher pressure plus on a FI system the high pressure remains even after cutting the motor off.

It will no longer run or will run but not pump fuel at the proper pressure.

Check the presure in the fuel line. 35 psi should be your mark!Keo

Well this depends on what kind of fuel system you have but it is pretty simple to check either way.

If you have a carburetor you must pull the fuel line at the carb and turn the car over.... try to start it. You will need to find the fuel line first to do this. Should be a metal line running to the carb. Please use caution when doing this as if there is a spark leak it is very possible to start a fire.

If you have a fuel injected system you will need to check the system at the fuel relief valve on the fuel rail. (looks a bit like a tire air stem).

either way there should be ample fuel coming out either the valve or the line when attemping to start the car.

How ever just because you have fuel coming out of the line/valve does not mean that you don't have a fuel pressure problem. It is very possible to have fuel at either point but not have enought to properly run the car.

i would recomend that you take the car to a full service auto shop and have them look at it as fuel systems can be complicated for novices.

If the engine stalls, stumbles, misses, or quits. Just replace it if you have any doubts. Then you will know.

Rough idle, stalling, lack of power are some of the symptoms.

Read the owners manual which will tell you when to replace.

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An engine is measured by the volume of air inside the piston bores. If you've seen an oil commercial and you see those round things hammering up and down, that's a piston. It sits in a sleeve and when it gets to the top, the plug fires, and drives it down again. That's where your drive power comes from. So if you have a 3.2 liter engine, the total amount of air that can be displaced in all the cylinders totals 3.2 liters. If you want to know how much each cylinder can displace you need to divide the volume (3.2 liters) by the number of cylinders you have, and I'd say a 3.2 is almost certainly a 6 cylinder jobbie. So 3.2 liters is equal to 3200 cubic centimeters divided by 6 is about 530 cubic centimeters or, to come back American again, each cylinder has a volume of about half a quart, mas o minos. Phil

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You can take it out nd send it in for repairs or get an expensive replacement from your dealer.

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P0455 means a gross leak detected in the Evaporative Emissions System. Some call this a "gas cap" code, because the most common cause a loose or failed gas cap. But it could be caused by any vapor leak in the fuel tank, filler neck, or anywhere else in the vapor management system. If it isn't a gas cap, you will need tol take it someplace where they have a smoke machine that can find the leak using smoke.

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235/70/r15

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The first thing you will need is about 4 arms and a whole lot of patience. Before you begin, check the location of the voltage regulator socket on the replacement and the original. Some replacements may have the plug socket on the 'other' side of the alternator - as mine did. I had to really stretch the harness to make it fit! I was lucky that I could get it together as I have 'just' enough extra wire to reach. Pull up on ramps to gain access under the front bumper. Remove, what we affectionately call, the "tool tray" (the brush guard under the engine to gain access to the belts. Loosen the alternator pivot and tuning screws. Remove the belt from the alternator. (Note: If you need to replace the belt, you will have to remove all of the belts because it is naturally the one in the back.) Remove the pivot screws (fore and aft) however you can get to them. Once the alternator is free from its mounting bracket, (this is where you can use the extra arms), remove the electrical leads from the back of the case. You may need to remove the wire harness from the clips just inside the left wheelwell (look from the top under the hood) to gain some extra working room. It isn't easy pulling the alternator through everything you have to get past, but with a little patience and persuation, it will fall into your hands (or on your face, if you're not careful). Reverse the process to install the new alternator. I recommend tightening the front pivot screw before trying to find the rear one. Hope that helps!

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No, it has a chain!

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• If you have air conditioning it's condensation from your AC spilling into your vehicle instead of outside on the ground. It's a clogged line to your air conditioner which has been clogged with debris, leaves and such. A little compressed air should do the trick.
• It might also be a coolant leak from your heater core. It will have a slimy, greasy feel if it's coolant. It will also have a sweet odor. Do not taste - its poisonous.
• Yes, the mysterious water swooshing noise in the dashboard when turning, and/or water leaking under the dash at the passenger side, as well as possibly the heater fan sounding like it's spitting water…there can be only one explanation and this is IT.
• First, let me assure you that all manner of answers from mechanics have been researched and considered, but so far no one has yet answered this satisfactorily in any forum I have come across. Usually it is something along the lines of "coolant leak", evaporator core issues, etc etc but these fellows are missing the vital point…it is WATER not some exotic liquid cocktail usually associated with serious and expensive vehicle problems.
• I own a 1996 Mercury Villager / Nissan Quest which developed this problem after a heavy rainfall. Coincidence? NO WAY!
• I had the proverbial water leak beneath the passenger side dash, as well as what sounded like a bathtub full of water behind my dash swooshing back and forth.
• So here's the deal. These vehicles, like many others have a reservoir above the firewall just beneath the plastic cover at the base of the windshield, which also houses the wiper motor, etc. typically the reservoir collects any water running from the windshield or rain in general. There are two drains one at the drivers side and one at the passenger side. These drains usually work great except when they become plugged with silt, debris from trees shedding leaves, insect matter etc. When this happens, the water simply collects and fills the reservoir with nowhere to go except into the fresh air intake for the cabin heating/cooling system located just above the passenger side glove compartment.
• The water then leaks into the venting ducts and onto the floor. It also stays in the reservoir and sloshes back and forth while driving.
• Any mechanic worth his salt should be able to figure this out and charge you ½ hr labor to remove the plastic shroud and unplug the drains. That's pretty much the extent of it. I did it myself and it took about 20 minutes.
• The wipers have to be removed. There is a release clip at the bottom of the wiper coupling where it meets the drive shaft. Pull it back and lift the wiper straight up and off the shaft. Remove the plastic pins ( they look like slotted screws) along the top of the shroud by turning them 90 degrees and pulling them straight out with some needle nose pliers. Open the hood and remove the rubber seal strip along the edge of the shroud. Find the little plastic holding pins and reach around to the bottom of each pin. You need to compress the little barbs on both sides of the pin to allow it to be pushed up through the hole. There are also 4 plastic push-lock pins holding the bottom edge of the shroud. You will have to pull up on the center (looks like a screw) of each pin and pull it almost all the way out. Then remove the whole pin assembly. A small sharp pair of end cutters works great. Now with a little bit of twisting and careful manipulation you should be able to pull the plastic piece up and out of the way. Start at the corners and pull the piece down and out from under the windshield trim. Then lift it up carefully and move it to rest on the windshield being careful not to disconnect any rubber hoses from the washer nozzles.
• The drains are located at the far edge of the trough in each corner. Use a straightened coat hanger or something similar to poke and clear the drain. Get your garden hose and with a good straight stream of water flush out each drain hole and make sure it is draining. Water will pour out of the rear of each wheel well just under the front of each door.
• Try using a spray of Lysol or other household disinfectant into the trough since it may have had stagnant water for some time. This will kill any bacteria that may have found it a haven for while and ensure that you will not be blowing it into the passenger compartment every time you turn on your blower.
• This happened to me, two huge puddles on my passenger side floor mat twice in one day. I looked up below the dash and found the hole it was dripping from. I found a nearby hose sticking out about two inches that wasn't connected to anything. Reconnected and problem solved. Just a disconnected hose.

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Tools needed:

10mm socket

14mm socket

plyers

racheting wrench

long and short extension

breaker bar or Big wrench so you can put on rachet to give you more leverage.

start by disconnecting the battery. Something that will greatly help from the top is disconnect the wire from the starter going to the positive battery wire. You will thank god for this later. (it was a pain in the butt)

Remove nut from positive side of silinoid

Remove 10 mm bolt holding stainless steel lines

Remove 14 mm upper and lower bolts (I used racheting wrench with extension and 1" wrench to give me leverage)

There is one more 14 mm short bolt that is above tranny pan that you will need a long extenstion to get to.

Once you remove all bolts starter should almost fall out of place minus wire that you disconnected earlier. The one I had, had gotten caught up with other wires and I finally got aggrivated and just broke the wire off to get the starter out. This is not a big deal as the new or remanufactured starter will have this wire.

Installation:

Make sure to line up the plate right and thread in the top bolt hand tightened.

Do the same as with lower bolt.

line up bracket and thread in the short bolt tight so you don't have to mess with it again.

tighten stainless steel line back together.

Have someone push the wire up you in the upper part of the engine area and plug wire back in.

tighten all bolts and make sure to attach positive batter cable wire to starter.

Reinstall battery and give the key a turn.

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It can cause a rough idle. And it will also cause the engine to die when coming to a stop at times.

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Basically, you are looking at the same steps as replacing a timing belt. You might find more by searching on "timing belt" as well.

1. remove the alternator and power steering belts. 2. remove the right side engine mounting block 3. remove the bracket for the power steering pump (it bolts into the mounting block bracket 4. remove the engine mounting bracket from the front of the plastic timing belt cover. Unfortunately, these bolts are long and are a pain in the --- as they hit the chassis. You have to do some creative wiggling to get them out. In the factory, the engine is not in the car yet when they put this in :( 5. remove the center bolt from the crankshaft pulley 6. remove the crankshaft pulley with a 3 prong pulley puller -- I had to get a longer pulley center bolt -- the puller assembly I have bottomed out with the stock bolt 7. remove the plastic timing belt cover - lots of screws, little hands are good for the tight clearances to the fender/chassis sub-frame 8. remove the timing belt -- mechanical tensioner in the middle. 9. now you can get to the water pump.

According to my Haynes Repair manual you do the following:

Disconnect the cable from the negativ battery terminal Drain the cooling system Remove the accessory drivebelts (power steering/ac) Remove the crankshaft damper/pulley, the timing belt covers and the timing belt Remove the water pump mounting bolts Seperate the pump from the water inlet pipe and remove the pipe Clean all the gasket and O-Ring surfaces on the pump and water pipe inlet tube. Install and NEW O-Ring on the water inlet pipe. Wet the O-Ring with water to facillitate assembly. Install a new gasket on the water pump and install the inlet opening over the water pipe. Press the water pipe into the pump housing. Install the water pump mounting bolts and tighten to specifications. The remainder of the installation is the reverse of the removal. Refill the cooling system Operate the engine to check for leaks.

(The timing belt removal is tricky...please find that info or suggest a mechanic.

i own a 1992 dodge avenger and when i turn the car off the key will not go past the acceseries position and come out do you have any sugjestions

First of all there is no such thing as a 1992 dodge avenger, the years are from 95-2000 and then theres the 2008 series, anyways, to fix the problem you just need to replace your ignition, you can't fix that part, only replace

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The water pump is located behind the timing belt cover and is driven by the timing belt. You need to reove it to gain access to the water pump.

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It's safe. I don't recommend drinking it however. Keep an eye on the condition of the fluid in the rad and reservior. Flush it every 36,000 miles or 3 years-regardless of the manufacturers input.

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Check the fluid. If it is full, the pump is worn and eventually will fail but it may last a good while longer. Check the fluid level first though.

answer sounds like wheel bearings are wearing out, or the steering column bearings inside the steering colum

If the vehicle is front wheel drive then you may also need to check the right and left side CV joints on the drive shafts..many times the rubber boots covering these joints degrade and crack allowing dirt/moisture to enter the joint and allow the grease to exit,this will cause a grinding noise when turning..If left unchecked the joints will fail and the car becomes undrivable...

There are 2 CV joints on each drive shaft one right behind wheel housing(hub) and one next to the transmission...

CV= (constant velocity)

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A dead or intermittent clock is a fairly common issue with this era of vehicle. They go bad internally. Check out my bio page for info on how to remove it and have it serviced.

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There is no special procedure for replacing the water pump. You will have to remove the belts, fan at a minimum. To make the job easier it is recommended that you remove the radiator. It is also wise to service all consumable parts at that time with genuine Toyota parts: Hoses, coolant, thermostat & belts.

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its a big job. the timing belt drives the water pump. you have to drain the coolant, remove air filter hose to engine, remove fan an fan shroud, serpetine belt, alternator, remove the two front bolts to the a/c, remove harmonic balancer pulley. remove timing belt covers, loosen power steering pump so you can remove alternator ,set the timing then remove belt. then remove the water pump. you need a 10mm,12mm,14mm,17mm an a 22mm an 24mm sockets both deep well and shallow and all those sizes in wrenches. a Phillips head screwdriver and something to hold the crank when you are trying to remove the bolt. that is a quick overview

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need to know how to take fan off a 97 GMC 1500 truck to replace water pump

I've done this before it's not to tough! Start by removing the plastic fan grad between the engine and radiator. Drain coolant from the radiator, about 2 to 3 gallons, and keep it contained for possible reuse. Note it is a good idea to put some cardboard on the radiator to protect it from damage by wrenches falling, a pizza box unfolded flat works good. Remove the fan blade by using a big crescent wrench to grab that large hex nut between the fan blade and the water pump; hold on tightly to the fan belt on the pulley of the water pump as you jerk your wrench handle. One spin the fan off. Remove your fan belt- But 1st draw a diagram of the fan belt and how it connects to all the pulleys on the engine so you can put it back on. Unbolt the pulley wheel from the water pump. Put a bucket or pan under the water pump to catch more before you loosen all the bolts that hold it on the block. Once drained and unbolted remove the old pump. Scrape the engine clean at the 2 ports the pump bolts to. Use new gaskets and RTV Silicone glue on both faces of the gaskets. Bolt the new pump on your engine and reassemble all the rest in reverse order. Be sure to get the coolant level back up to Parr and before you go driving dabble check everything and let the engine idle for 10 minuets to check for leaks. Be safe and I hope this did the trick for you!

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The air intake sensor is located in the air tube connecting to the air cleaner box. The tube runs driver's side to passenger's side at radiator location and is on the bottom side of the tube. Make a note.....the coolant temperature sensor and air intake sensor are the same.

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I have a 94 jetta and bought the car with a broken sunroof motor. There is a plastic piece on the head liner. Just pull off the piece. Inside you should find an Allen wrentch and an Allen hole. You can figure it out from there.