Make sure the wires are connected to the cigar lighter. If they are, is there any power to them? If not, check the fuse. If there is power and it still won't work, then the lighter itself may be burned out. Try a different lighter in your socket to see if it works, or buy a replacement lighter/socket assembly and install it.
The Front Wheel bearings Must be pressed out and pressed in as a unit You can save some time by buying a new hub if the old one looks bad in any way. I reused mine and my local dealer charged $35.00 to do the pressing when I took him my clean hub and new bearings. I bought the replacement bearings from Autohause AZ at big savings over dealer price. My local parts store was no help. Scott, Anchorage ALaska
I am assuming your talking about the key w/tumbler and not the switch that is mounted on the column under the dash (wires attached). With this is mind you remove the cover around the bottom of column should be a few Philips head screws in the bottom (note there are deep holes you wont see them per say. Once you have done this and exposed the bottom place your key in the column and turn to run position there will be a pin hole under the key area depress this with a small punch or something similar and remove. If you have lost your key and this is why you are doing this job it just got a bit more tougher. you will need to carefully drill that pin out to remove the lock cylinder. Fords require the key to easily do this job. be very care not to destroy the soft aluminum around where pin is or you wont be able to hold the lock in place. .
Quite possably, your alternator is dead, or almost dead. Dead batteries tend to recharge slightly after not being used for a day or so or overnight, so that's why you can start it in the morning. But go to the mall, turn it off for ten minutes, come back, and it won't start. That's because a running vehicle can use alot of power, especally at night. Go to an alternator repair shop and get them to test it. You can also do it yourself if you have a multimeter. Most shops will test for free, because if something is wrong there is a very good chance you will get it fixed there. So go to a couple if you can and compare, or possibly get screwed. An alternator is often very easy to replace. (2 bolts and one or two connectors) So try yourself and save a bundle! . Good luck.
IT SOUNDS TO ME LIKE A BAD COIL.
Unless you have the proper equiptment, and expertise do not attempt to paint the hood yourself or you will be sorely dissapointed in the results. Remove the hood and take it to a trusted body shop and let them professionally paint it for you.
You will need to get a pair of spring compressors. I rented mine from autozone for $30.00. They will refund your money if you bring them back undamaged. Also new springs and new top plates that hold the top of the spring in place. I also replaced my struts, since the whole thing comes out as one unit. 4 bolts to remove, 2 at the bottom wheel area, and 2 hiding in the rear trunk panel. I replaced the rear struts and springs, not the front. Get the whole unit into a good vice, compress the spring, remove the top nut, and uncompress and remove. If you buy all new you can just toss the old unit. My cost if I remember correctly was about $230 dollars altogether for both rear units. 2 springs - $60.00, 2 top plates - $50.00, and 2 struts - $120.00.
According to the Gates website , both the SOHC and DOHC engines used in
a 1999 Ford Escort ( are interference engines )
KLZE it has 30 more hp than the KL03 and fits perfectly.
Depends, if you are replacing all fluid it is about 4 to 5 quarts. There is a dip stick for measuring the right amount. Put some in, start the car and run it around the block going through some gears, then park the car, leave it running and check the dip stick. Add more if needed and repeat the process until at the full mark. Use this same process if just adding a little but run the car around the block and check the stick first.
twenty hours nineteen min estimated
i own a 1989 Chevy cheyane and had to fix my tilt steering. the same applies to removing the steering wheel and etc to get to the ignition switch as well.
i went to Canadian tire or parts dealer. i had to rent a steering wheel puller etc. remove steering wheel cap, undo main bolt. remove plastic horn cover ( watch out for springs) remove tilt arm. then you have to remove torx screws from base of tilt housing. slide off main collar. you can search on the web for removing or fixing tilt mechanism and it will show you how to do this but it will show you how to remove the ignition system as well. it's not to hard just keep all the parts together and reasemble in same order you took apart. It took me two hours to do this, and i didnt know what i was doing.
place your cam at BDC and your crank at TDC make sure your #1 piston is up all the way on the down stroke
what year, and specific model of escort do you have?
I believe if you open the drivers door , on the latch pillar is an information
sticker that shows the original tire size on the vehicle from the factory
my thinking is it just cranksbut no start, when you put power to this wire the should be clicking sound near trottle body if click is heard the leave power on it it should start but if not hot when key is off will cut off with key from battery you have to disconnect the hot wire to shut engin off
for test you can do from battery ,but must be keyed hot if that is problem
The timing belt tensioner is under the timing cover(you most likely have that off already). I believe it is a 14mm bolt keeping it down, loosen that bolt and remove the tensioner spring with a pair of needle-nose pliers. Don't drop the spring!
On a 1997 Ford Escort :
Open the drivers door and on the latch pillar you will see an information
sticker . One of the things the sticker shows is the original size of tires on
the vehicle from the factory
This is actually much easier than most repair shops will tell you. We had the timing belt replaced on my son's fiance's '91 Escort at a cost of $750.00. When the belt on my '91 Escort let go, I replaced it in a little over 2 hours for $11.92, including tax!
My best advice to you is to invest about $12.00 (at my local AutoZone) for a small Haynes Repair Manual. This small manual will give you all of the instructions and photos needed to do the job. My water pump, idler pulley, and tensioning spring were all in good shape. Make sure you check these parts after you get the front end apart. Unless you have over 150,000 miles on your Escort, they're probably just fine.
I did find that it was easier to support the engine with blocking from underneath and pull the engine mount to get out the plastic timing belt cover. Other than that, the manual takes you through it step-by-step. It only requires basic tools (other than a puller for the crankshaft) and is quite a simple procedure.
If you don't have a gear puller, either buy a cheap one at Harbor Freight (that's what I used) or borrow one from your local parts house. AutoZone and Checker Auto loan their tools for free with only a deposit until you return them.
I would say "Good Luck", but you won't need it. It's really easier than it seems.
THERE IS A VAC LINE OFF OR BROKEN REMOVE THE HEATER CONTROL PANLE THEN SET FAN ON LOW AND SEE IF YOU HEAR A HISSING SOUND. I HOPE THIS HELPS
Top speed was 65 mph.
If your car pulls to one side when you release the wheel it could be one of a few different things. Most commonly this means it needs an alignment. There are three different alignment settings...toe, caster, and camber.
Toe is the most easily adjustable and is the most often needed adjustment. It is the measurement from the front of one tire to the front of the opposite side tire, or rear of one to the rear of the other. When you turn your wheel, the motion of the tires is the motion that toe adjustment sets, but it is in relation of one tire to the other and how straight they travel down the road in a parallel relationship to each other. This setting will cause tire wear, but it is a common misconception that it will cause a car to pull. It will not cause a pull. It will however cause your steering wheel to be off center, or crooked.
Camber is the adjustment of the top of your wheel leaning in or out in relation to the bottom of your wheel causing the tire to ride more on the outer edge of the tread, on the inner edge of the tread, or squarely on the center of the tread as the tire was intended. This setting will cause tire wear, will cause a car to pull one way or the other, and in extreme cases of being out of manufacturers specs can cause unstable and erratic handling. Some cars have adjustments from the factory for camber, though an increasing amount of cars require purchase of aftermarket cam bolts or bushings in order for the camber to be adjusted. This is particularly true of a lot of imports like Toyota and Nissan though it varies my make and model.
Caster is the least needed adjustment and is in some cases not adjustable on some makes and models. It is the measurement of the angle of a line drawn through your upper and lower ball joint in relation to the ground. Imagine a line traveling from the top of your tire to the bottom that is straight up and down. If you leaned the top of that line toward the front or the rear of your car, that would be the movement of the caster. The rake angle on a bike is the same thing. Caster adjustment affects the straight line stability of a car and how quickly and easily a car will turn into a corner. Caster does not cause cause tire wear and will not usually cause a pull, except in extreme cases of caster offset between one tire and the other.
Sometimes a manufacturing flaw in a tire will make it cause a pull even when the tire is brand new and with a perfect alignment. This is commonly called a radial pull. To diagnose a radial pull, swap the front tires and drive the car again. If it is a radial pull, the car will now pull on the opposite direction as it did before.
Some other causes are tires already irregularly worn from a bad alignment, worn shocks, or lack of proper rotation. Also, mismatched size tires on each side, uneven tire pressures on each side, and early signs of tire malfunctions such as a broken or separating belt inside of the tire carcass. Broken or separating belts are most commonly accompanied by a shake or vibration and may or may not cause a pull.