See "Related Questions" below for more

For all Taurus / Sable, the TSB basically states that Mercon V is now the specified transmission fluid.

Through a removable plug on the side of the transmission if standard/manual.

The transmission dip stick (fill) is a few inches from the power brake booster near the firewall.

You actually have to put it into the transmission fluid dipstick hole using a long funnel. I just did this tonight after speaking with my mechanic.

Start car let it run until car is warm (temp gauge is in the middle of cold and hot). or you can drive car until it is warm.

The fluid should be a light red color and be in the hash mark area on the dipstick. wipe dipstick and check a couple times to make sure.

Under the hood, behind the engine on the left (driver's) side. It's also the transmission dipstick tube. Best not fill it all - up but the transmission checker tube is generally close to the firewall and you best find it quick or get someone to show it to you. If you're having tran problems get the fluid and filter changed but not by a transmission repair shop.

You put fluid in the same place you check it. Make sure the car is parked on level ground and you check it according to the instructions in your owner's manual or what is written on the dip stick. DO NOT OVERFILL!!!!!

Transmission "dip' sticks most of the times are located in front of engine (marked) trans. oil or spelled out transmission oil remove stick use funnel ,place it in hole of dip stick add transmission oil, remember to check trans oil when car is on at idle speed. turn car on, wait 6 to 10 minutes, then check trans oil level make sure car is on park with parking brake on(safety)

The dipstick tube for the '95 Taurus 3.0 is located on the driver's side near the firewall (about 6" in front of it) nearly below the master cylinder. When filling the trans simply place a funnel for transmissions into the tube (after removing the dipstick) and pour about 1 pint at a time into the tube, waiting about 10 minutes between pours to check the level. The 10 minute wait allows the fluid to drain fully from the tube so you won't get false results.

The dipstick tube for the '95 Taurus 3.0 is located on the driver's side near the firewall (about 6" in front of it) nearly below the master cylinder. When filling the trans simply place a funnel for transmissions into the tube (after removing the dipstick) and pour about 1 pint at a time into the tube, waiting about 10 minutes between pours to check the level. The 10 minute wait allows the fluid to drain fully from the tube so you won't get false results.

Same place you check the fluid level.

Transmission at full operating temperture, engine running at idle, in park. Pull the dipstick and check the level. The add mark indicates 1 pint low. Caution: Do not overfill!!
towards the firewall, there is a red handle dipstick that says tranmision fluid, the same place that you check it. This is also where you fill it. Its a long skinny tube with the dipstick in it. You can buy a funnel at an autoparts store such as checker, schucks or kragen that is long and skinny for this purpose. They cost like $1. This is well detailed and illustrated in the Owners Manual - See "Related Questions" below for more

You will be removing the transmission pan, and draining the transmission fluid (so make sure you have several quarts of new transmission fluid ready). The pan is attached to the bottom of the transmission by 17 or 19 (depending on the transmission model) 8mm bolts. Assuming you don't also want to do a full flush of the transmission fluid (which would be desirable if the transmission fluid is visibly oxidized (brownish with little or no sign of its original red-clear color)), do the following:

• Raise the car's front end: either drive up onto drive-on ramps, or jack up the front of the car using a floor jack (check data on your model's proper front jacking point, though usually it's the strong front frame piece behind the radiator), then slowly lower the car onto suitable jack stands placed under the two side frame pieces near the front wheels. Don't rely just on a jack, even a good one, to keep a car raised.
• Get a large container, at least 6 liter, to put under the pan as a drain bucket.
• Remove the pan's bolts, starting with the ones closest to the passenger side. Remove the 6 bolts around the corner of the pan. This will allow the fluid to start to drain and not make too much mess. Catch the fluid in the drain bucket.
• Start removing the remaining bolts, but leaving in place the bolts on the driver's side of the pan. This allows the pan to drop slowly and drain out most of the fluid.
• Let it drain about 10 minutes.
• Remove the remaining bolts, while holding up the pan with one hand. When you get to the last bolt, slowly let the pan down and hang on the last bolt.
• Remove the last bolt, and lower the pan into the drain bucket.
• Examine the bottom of the pan for metal shavings. Many or all will collect on a magnet that normally sits in the pan. If you see metal shavings, the transmission is damaged and may need repair.
• Remove the filter: it turns to the side to remove it from its retaining clip and just pulls down to remove. Be sure the rubber o-ring seal comes off too--if it doesn't, pry it off with a screwdriver. It will often be a metal band coated with rubber.Sometimes only part of the seal will come off, which will prevent the new filter from fitting onto this location.
• Let the fluid drain some more, for a while, until draining stops.
• Clean the pan using brake cleaner, and the two mating surfaces for the new gasket. There's normally no need to clean other parts of the transmission.
• Install the new filter: A new O-ring seal should be built into the new filter. If the new filter doesn't slide into place properly, often the cause is a remaining part of the old seal that hasn't been removed yet.
• Put the new gasket in place on the pan (if the pan's old gasket is cork, replace it with a new rubber gasket (which comes with most new filters), but if the old gasket is rubber, you can re-use it if you don't have a new gasket), then place the pan against the bottom of the transmission. Manually thread (finger-tight) a few bolts in place to hold it, then manually install the remaining bolts, again finger-tight.
• If you have a torque wrench, tighten the pan's bolts to nine foot-pounds. To prevent the gasket from deforming and allowing leaks, start with the middle bolt that's along the edge of the pan closest to the middle of the car, then the bolt farthest from this one on the opposite edge, then the two bolts at the middle of the other two sides, then back to another bolt on the pan's inner edge; repeat this alternating pattern until you're done. Do NOT overtighten the bolts, since they can break and strip easily, and deform the gasket too.
• Once you've reinstalled the pan, add 5 liters of new transmission fluid before you start the car. Check your car's owner's manual for the proper type of transmission fluid, since variations in models and their transmissions may not always make this determination easy. However, in general, for Taurus transmissions made in 1996 and earlier, use regular Mercon (NOT Mercon V), or Dexron III, or F type fluid. For transmissions made in 1997 and later, use only MERCON V fluid. Using the wrong fluid can cause your transmission to burn out.

  NOTE: Ford issued a TSB regarding the phasing out of Mercon, and specifying Mercon V as the replacement fluid for 1986-1997 Taurus/Sable (and most all Ford car products). Refer to TSB linked below

• Start the car, and let it run until normal operating temperature is reached (usually 15 minutes is enough). Then check the transmission fluid level using the transmission dipstick, and add more fluid in small amounts (one ounce at a time is good) until it reads full. DON'T OVERFILL THE TRANSMISSION FLUID (as shown on the dipstick), as this can eventually damage your transmission. If you overfill, drain some out until the proper level is reached.

  Filter Prices

  A check of Autozone & O'Riely's shows: $12, $18 & $29 (Motorcraft)

Check with auto parts to make it has a filter -- some do not If so drain and remove transmission oil pan Clean oil pan Filter should be held in place by 2 bolts Remove bolts and filter should pull out Replace filter and "O" Ring Install new gasket and replace oil pan

I'll take a stab at this one since i just did this on our 1988 mercury sable 3.8l with AXOD transmission. i assume your transmission will be similar.

The oil pan from the transmission must be removed. It can be a messy job because there are no drain plugs in the transmission oil pans. i think that's so the filter HAS to be changed each time the oil is changed.

TIP - I got around the ultra messiness of it all by using a device called a "dock mate" which is used on boat engines. On boats you change the oil by putting a plastic tube down the dipstick, then pumping on the dock mate to create a vacuum. if you do this when the oil is hot, it comes out really fast, like in a couple of minutes. By doing this first, the oil pan had much less oil in it.

• Remove the bolts from the oil pan. You may wish to wait until it has cooled.
• The filter is on the bottom of the transmission, which was covered up by the oil pan. Our transmission had a clip on the filter, which you just move out of the way & the filter pulls straight down.

  NOTE: Check to make sure the O-ring that is on the filter did not stay up in the hole. It did when i changed it, so i just used a small tool to pull it out, being careful not to scratch the walls.

  The transmission fluid pan gasket comes with the filter and O-ring. ours was about $11.50 @ NAPA>

• I cleaned out the bottom of the pan and the bottom of the transmission lines. There might be some light gray colored material. this is pretty normal, as long as it is like a liquid, not pieces you can see.
• Then you are to put the new filter in with the new O-ring, and clean the bottom of the pan with a solvent, then air dry with waterless air. You should also do this to the bottom of the transmission. i just used lens paper. the idea is not to leave any lint.
• Put the new gasket on ( ours was cork, which is much cheaper). I applied some black Permatex non-hardening sealant to the bottom side of the gasket & the pan & let them sit until tacky, then mated them. on the top of the gasket I put a light coating of wheel bearing grease. The idea for that is so the gasket doesn't stick to the transmission when you change it next time.

  NOTE: The directions actually said to use NO sealants of any kind, but i got my ideas off the web. It held anyway.

• Next, bolt the pan back up using a cross-pattern so as not to warp the pan. use a torque wrench. the specs for the AXOD are 12.5 ft/lbs (actually 10-15 ft./lbs.)

Then you are done & can have a nice cold margarita ( no salt on mine, please)..

OK, now this question has been ed. Jenni

You'll have to take it to a dealership and ask to have a transmission flush. It used not to be possible to get ALL the fluid out unless the transmission was completely removed from the vehicle which could cause other problems if all the outer seals were not replaced.You could get most of it out by draining the pan and the Torque Converter. However, there is no longer a drain plug on most torque converters these days so a flush is just about the only way to do it with the transmission still in the vehicle. It is a fairly new procedure that is now possible thanks to the new flushing machine which hooks up to your cooling lines (the metal tubing that runs from your transmission to your radiator).

I have been a mechanic for MANY years and as stated, the flushes havent been around very long. I have changed just 4-6 quarts of fluid for many years and have had no ill effects from just changing that much especially if it is done every 30,000 miles. This is MY 2 cents worth. Good luck, Joe

Mercon V is the specified fluid type

Recommend a Synthetic ATF - it will last longer and resist the heat better as well. You could also install the separate Transmission oil cooler and filter to help prolong the transmission life.

1995-1998 - 12.25 qts. / 11.6 liters

1999-2003 - 13.7 qts. / 13.0 liters

• After a fluid / filter change with just the pan off - it would take only 4.5 qts. to fill it back up. (The rest remains in the transmission lines, gears, torque converter etc).
  
  
• One should not have to add more than a quart or two - more than this indicates a serious problem or leak.

• NOTE: Automatic transmission fluid expands when warmed. To obtain an accurate fluid check, drive the vehicle until it is warmed up (approximately 30 km [20 miles]). If your vehicle has been operated for an extended period at high speeds, in city traffic during hot weather or pulling a trailer, the vehicle should be
  turned off for about 30 minutes to allow fluid to cool before checking.
  
  
• Drive the vehicle 30 km (20 miles) or until it reaches normal operating temperature.
  
  
• Park the vehicle on a level surface and engage the parking brake.
  
  
• With the parking brake engaged and your foot on the brake pedal, start the engine and move the gearshift lever through all of the gear ranges. Allow sufficient time for each gear to engage.
  
  
• Latch the gearshift lever in P (Park) and leave the engine running.
  
  
• Now it's time to pull the dipstick - wipe it clean - make sure it goes all the way back way in to get a good reading
  

Through the dipstick tube if automatic transmission.
Through a removable plug on the side of the transmission if standard/manual trans.

Refill through dipstick tube DO NOT OVERFILL

• A long funnel will be handy to reach the top of the dipstick tube.
• Put in small amounts at a time to avoid over-filling
  

You'll need a funnel with a somewhat long tube in order to reach down into the engine compartment to the top of the tube. This is well detailed and illustrated in the Owners Manual - See "Related Questions" below for more

Transmission fluid goes into the same small tube that the transmission dipstick is in.

You'll need a funnel with a somewhat long tube in order to reach down into the engine compartment to the top of the tube. This is well detailed and illustrated in the Owners Manual - See "Related Questions" below for more

D3 always when driving around town after say 55 cruising you should then release the gas slightly and shift to D4 (OD) but don't forget to shift on the highway the extra rpm of running in D3 at higher speeds will burn more gas cause faster engine wear, and also could cause engine to over heat. just a simple answer to your problem.

• Dropping the transmission pan will drain only 5-6 quarts of fluid. This leaves another 6 or so quarts in the torque converter, transmission lines, trans cooler (if equipped), and the radiator side-tank for trans fluid cooling.
• The information below focuses on performing a fluid flush - that will result in a 100% fluid exchange.
• Some experts discourage a full fluid flush on transmissions that have not had regular fluid change maintenance.
• Mercon V is the only Ford recommended fluid for all Taurus/Sables model years
• See "Related Questions" below for standard filter/fluid change procedures

According to Mitchells (Service manuals mechanics use) do the following. Obtain 3 gallons of Mercon V trans fluid. (NOT regular mercon- youll burn up the trans relatively fast). No need to drop pan. Disconnect cooler line from trans to radiator (you want the output from trans to rad,don't remember which is which) Put end of hose into large capacity container,and start engine. 2to3 quarts of fluid will drain out. Put 9 Quarts of new fluid into trans. (Yes ,it's way overfilled, but don't worry) Start engine,and run shifter through Drive and Reverse,pausing about 2 seconds in each, then return to Park. Have someone watch fluid flow so you can stop engine as soon as it stops. Reconnect cooler line,add 2 quarts new fluid,start engine until warm, run shifter through ALL gears,check for leaks,check fluid level,add more if needed. (may need up to 1 more quart)You have essentially flushed out all 11-12 quarts(!) of old fluid. Trans has no real filter, just a screen. Did this with a 98 and a 95.

Sort of like above, but I really think you should change the filter: Just changed on a 2001 v-6 Taurus (USE MERCON V). Since the transmission holds over 12 qts, you need to flush over 12 qts out of the transmission. First is to change the filter and then add at least 5 qts. Once this is done, open the hood. On the front drivers side of the engine/transmission, you will see two lines that come out and attach to the passenger side of the radiator. Disconnect the lower line from where it comes out of the engine/transmission (I used a 13/16 wrench, you might be able to also just un-hook the line, but I couldn't get it unhooked, was just easier to unbolt it). Take a length of hose and put over that line and run to a bucket (to collect the transmission fluid that is going to squirt out). Start the car (best to have an assistant) and add transmission fluid while the fluid is squirting out of that hose/line you disconnected. You'll want about 8 quarts to come out of that hose. Once you have about 8 qts into the bucket, stop the car. Hopefully you've added about 6 or 7 qts while you had the car running. Hook the line back up and then add fluid until it's at least at the bottom of the dipstick. Start the car, apply the brake and shift through the gears. Put in park, check the fluid level again. Add fluid until it shows on the lower part of the dipstick crosshairs. Now you need to warm up the transmission - go easy on it, get it warm (a 10 min drive would probably work), check the fluid level again while the car is idling in park. Bring the fluid into the crosshairs of the dipstick. Check the level again over the next day or so when the car is hot. CAUTION, if the fluid is too high, turn off the car, take a length of hose and put down the filler tube. Put your finger over the end of the hose (creates a suction) draw out the hose and you should have removed some fluid. Keep doing until until you get the fluid to the correct height.

I have a 1996 Taurus and it doesn't have a drain plug. I have over 220,000 miles on my Taurus because I keep its maintenance up to date. There is the transmission pan directly behind the pan where you drain the oil. It has a series of small bolts you have to take out.

First of all, you need to put a drain pan under your transmission pan. You should loosen one side of the transmission pan and then proceed to take the bolts out of the opposite side. As you are doing this, transmission fluid will start to drain out into the drip pan you placed under it. You might have to pry the pan slightly apart with a small screwdriver to get it to loosen up somewhat. Keep draining the fluid until eventually you can take the entire pan off. There is a filter inside you will need to replace and it is recommended you replace the gasket on the pan as well. Put it all back together and it will take approximately 5 to 6 quarts of transmission fluid to start with. Good luck! Just answered this a short time ago See same question higher up list for answer.One thing- You MUST use Mercon V fluid in 97 and newer- Never type F or Mercon III.

Mercon III CAN be used with a supplemental additive, trans shops may have it.