I recently replaced the filter and gasket and drained and refilled my 2002 grand cherokee's tranny fluid and used Castrol brand transmission fluid. Pretty much any type that is recommended for GM vehicles will suffice.

You will need anywhere from 2 to 4 quarts, depending on whether or not you replace the filter (highly recommended if you plan to drain the fluid and remove the pan anyway). You can get the kits at any auto parts store for under $20 usually. I also recommend getting either the Haynes or Chalmer's (sp?) manual before you do any work on the Jeep since these manuals contain a great deal of helpful info.

I hope it turns out well.

V/r,

SSG Jaxx

any brand ATF+4 fluid NOT GM otherwise what the last guy said.

Mopar ATF+4

Dextron will cause erratic shifts and slips.

I have a 1998 Jetta and the check plug is on the left side behind the drivers front wheel. It is a indented allan plug. It is about 2-3 inches above the bottom of the transmission. This is also the fill plug or can be used to fill at least.

Dexron 3 automatic transmission fluid, same for transmission/differential

3 speed transaxle 2.6 qts

4 speed transaxle 3.3 qts

manual 2.7 qts

1999 1.8L Corolla

Haynes Repair manual.

Remove the plug from the transmission fluid pan. Allow the transmission fluid to drain out. Replace the plug to its original position. Fill the transmission with new fluid. Remove the transmission filter by turning it to the left. Fill the filter with new fluid. Return the filter to its original position.

with the transmission warm (drive for ten or so minutes) park on a flat surface with the car running in neutral pull the dipstick the one towards the drivers side (not the yellow one) wipe it off and reinstall and pull out again look at the stick to see the level,if you need to add fluid use a small funnel and add it where the stick goes

I believe it has the same transmission as my 1993 Jeep Cherokee Sport. The manual says Dextron 2, which isn't made anymore. However, the replacement for this is Dextron 3. If you check your transmission drain plug, it will say D2 or D3 on it. Either way, the answer is Dextron 3.

If completely drained from both the pan and torque converter, 14 quarts. If you drop the pan only, 5 quarts. DON'T OVERFILL!!!! Put the correct number of quarts and then check.

You leave a mess everywhere you park,

When the fluid level drops below the add line, the transmission will not perform correctly,

Continued use after the fluid level has dropped below the add line will shorten the life span of the transmission,

The type of fluid required is written on the dipstick.

Manual 75W.

Automatic ATF-G

I hate to answer a question with a question but why do you need to check it as it is a sealed unit and as per Jaguar does not need to be checked so they say.......

Having said that there is a Allen head screw on the right side about 3inches above drain plug. Take it off and see if fluid comes out if not add until it runs out and put Allen screw back in. No there is not a dip stick. To add fluid there is a rubber plug or Allen screw on top of tranny behind battery box. You will need a long funnel.

Filler/level plug is located on the gearbox

very similar to a manual box filler/level plug

there is no dipstick fitted to this model.

What type of transmission fluid i can use in my Isuzu nQr 2017 instead of SCS ?

I wouldn't. Replace or repair the line instead.

2.5 quarts of transmission fluid (type F, not FA).

First of all, you will need the following.

13mm socket

14mm socket

17mm socket

36mm deep socket

3 jaw puller (to remove the hub bearing from the axle)

1/2 inch torque wrench that goes up to 160 ft/pounds

U joint extension

Short and medium socket extensions

1/2 breaker bar

New Hub bearing

After safely raising the car and removing the tire, spray some wd-40 or equivalent on the axle threads and nut. This is to clean the threads and help loosing up the nut.

Time to remove the axle nut; stick something in the rotor cooling holes to prevent it from rotating COUNTER clockwise. You may think that the parking gear on the tranny could hold the torque but why risk it. I recommend that you use a breaker bar. The nut size is 36mm.

After removing the nut, we can safely remove the caliper, caliper mounting bracket and the rotor. Be sure to prevent the caliper hang from the hose, be sure to secure it with some wire or tie wrap and tuck it out of the way.

Remove the 3 bolts securing the hub bearing to the knuckle. Be EXTREMELY careful not to damage the CV boot when doing this. The bolts are 13mm

After removing the 3 bolts, the brake shield will be loose and you can actually pull the bearing out of the knuckle. DONT HAMMER on the axle, instead work smartly and get a 2 or 3 (preferred) jaw puller. Be sure to add some lubricant to the spines to help the removal. Be sure to disconnect the ABS sensor from the knuckle before removing the bearing!!!!

Clean the knuckle for dirt and brake dust. I even a light coat of grease on the spines and on the mounting surface of the bearing to help in the install. Just a very light coat. If you overdo this, you will have grease all over the inside of the wheel and probably on the rotors. If in doubt, use some light oil.

Now time to install the new one....

Carefully snake the ABS connector thru the knuckle and axle, don't connect it yet. Align the brake shield with the holes and slide the new hub bearing. Screw the axle nut HAND TIGHT and screw the hub bearing bolts, again, be very careful when doing this!!

Also, notice that the bolts have some coloring to it. DONT REMOVE IT!!!

That is some sort or thread lock and a cool way of knowing which bolt goes.

Don't torque them yet.

Be sure that the axle is straight and there is no binding, then start torqueing the bolts in steps up to 85 ft/pounds, to prevent binding. I went from 25, 50 and final torque in a criss cross pattern.

DONT TIGHTEN THE AXLE NUT YET!!

Install the brake hardware then and only then you can torque the axle nut, AFTER securing the rotor from rotating CLOCKWISE, again to prevent strain on the tranny. Again, torque in steps. I went from 50 to 100 to 125 to 159 just to be sure.

Reconnect the ABS sensor cable and harness, if you have some dielectric grease, now it's a good time to add some at the connector seal to prevent moisture and water inside the connector and to ease removal in the future.... just in case.

Do a final torque check on all bolts, put the car in neutral and rotate the axle. Check the CV boots for damage, check the axle for binding and the ABS wire for rubbing. Mount the tire back if all clears ok.

Go and do some test drive!! Enjoy the sound of silence!!!

If it is an automatic you will likely have to add fluid through the dipstick tube. This is a real pain because the diameter of the tube is quite small and overflows easily. You will need to buy a funnel where the size is very close to the inside diameter of the upper neck of the tube. It will still probably make a mess though. It helps alot if you heat up the fluid before adding it, lowering the viscosity keeps it from overflowing in the tube.

You can view the 2005 Ford Crown Victoria owners manual online at :

www . motorcraft service . com ( no spaces )

Click on Owner Guides

( see page 246 and footnotes on page 247 )

No such thing... haha someone's probally playing with you... it's like a flux capacitor or muffler bearing it's something that doesn't exist

check your tranny fluid first

Depends on type of car or truck.

four wheel drive pickup hard body

There is a plug toward the frt on the tranny, best way to get at it is from under the car. Also there is a drain plug on the bottom of the tranny. fill the tranny with 80w-90 rear end fluid up to the fill plug, if too much is put in, let it drain out of the fill hole until it stops, car will have to level. Can't seem to remember how much though??.....

On a 1997 Mercury Mountaineer :

The engine oil filler tube for the 5.0 litre / 302 cubic inch V8 engine

is on the valve cover of the engine , on the right side ( passenger side )

near the front of the valve cover

The dipstick is located on the right side of the bike just behind the bottom of the oil lines coming from the oil tank. It is is a recessed type if it's stock.