the way i did it was put a long piece of garden hose on a funnel, run it down through the motor on the drivers side and have someone pour as i held the hose to the hole, seem to get the job done
If its a private sale - as is - is just that, buy a new transmission if the price of the tranny is worth paying for considering the price of the car. it may even be cheaper to find another car with the same tranny. Buy a transmission... Literally! This is someting that has to be looked over while you are looking into the car. Consumer is responsible unless some kind of warranty is implied or offered. Take it to a mechanic and have them scope it out before you lay down the cash. Probably nothing, "as is" means just that. The buyer is accepting the car without any guarantee as to its condition. If you could prove some type of fraud, there might be some recourse. But I doubt it. Perhaps your state has a "lemon law" that could be of some help. Put sign in the window saying "FOR SALE AS IS" Not so! "As Is" does not nullify legal warrantees or other responsibilities of the seller. Law vary by state, but simply putting "as is" on a title or bill of sale does not remove the seller's legal responsibilities. ---- Quick call the law schools and set them straight. A radical change in the law has occurred. YESTERDAY, "as is" meant "AS IS." Unless you could prove fraud, or some other independent basis for collecting damages, you were out of luck. Note that the lawsuit would cost much more than buying a new transmission. There is also VERY LIMITED protection in state Lemon laws. Lemon laws in Texas only apply to new vehicles There's a very logical reason for being able to legally sell a car "AS IS". People who think the seller should be sued every time someone has a problem with a recently purchased used car usually know very little about how complex a car is. Newer autos are a lot more dependable but still, you never know when you're going to have a serious problem. Old or new, BMW or Yugo, they're all made by people and when you buy a used car, you not only have the people factor do deal with but the wear factor as well. The best solution is to either pay the price for a new or newer car and the warranty or invest in some tools, educate yourself, get some bloody knuckles and quit clogging up the court dockets.
check your owners manual?
ha... good luck. It's not easy
The way it works is that if management decides they would like to hire new employees (which isn't often, but they are and will be hiring more and more as the older employees start retiring), they allow current employees to submit ONE referral for someone they know- usually a close friend or relative (obviously). The names are then put into a pool and could sit there for 2 weeks or 2 years. They will eventually call you in to participate in the selection process that follows (you have to pass each one to move to the next step):
1 Fill out an application/personality test
2 Complete a 3 hour test on a computer
3 Complete a 4 hour production simulation exercise
5 Complete an extensive physical and hair follicle drug screen
7 Wait some more
9 Report to orientation
The big key here is knowing someone that works there that is willing to submit your name on their behalf. The bigger key is if and when management is going to start taking referrals. I believe they will eventually start going through the Workforce One office, but better get your name down quick because like everything at Allison's, its based on seniority.
with car running removed Allen screw in center of nut on tran pan and oil will run out slow it ok if not need to fill.
Automatic trans: remove the drain plug on the pan, drain into a container, remove pan, clean or replace filter/screen, replace pan, fill with correct oil (not common Dexron II or III -- Hyundai ATF SP-II or Chrsyler spec 7176).
shift solenoid in trans is stuck off
NO! Dont mix them and dont swap them; they are very different and will cause massive damage.
First gear is selected when you want to use the engine's compression as a brake while descending hills. The compression of the engine will "hold back" the vehicle so you don't have to use your brakes to the extent that you might burn them out. Used especially when towing a heavy load.
Second gear is used the same way, but for less of a downhill. It is used primarily for starting out on ice or snow or any other slippery surface. Not all the engine's power is transmitted to the drive wheels when starting out in second gear. Thus the "sliipage" of the transmission will allow you to start out without losing traction.
If you have an auto and you want to go through the gears faster then in overdrive, put the car in first and click up from there when the car is ready to shift. Assuming that you are stopped.
When you are stuck in the mud.
Be warned that 4WD trannys/t-cases are very heavy and may require two people to get it out. Set the vehicle on jack stands or better yet a lift. Simply chock the wheels if you think the vehicle is tall enough. Remove all the shifters, disconnect the driveshafts, and pull any wires that are going to the transmission. Remove the starter, the clutch cable/shift linkage, and unbolt the trans from the tranny crossmember. You may need to remove the exhaust, and it definitely gives you more play room. If it's an automatic, drain the fluid from it and save it to put back in later, otherwise you'll have a big red mess. You don't have to do this with a manual, but it makes the tranny lighter and easier to work with. Support the back of the engine with a jack or stand, then support the tranny with a jack. Remove the tranny crossmember from the frame. Unbolt the tranny from the engine (normally 6 bolts), then finally pull the tranny out from the engine. You may have to work at it; move it side to side and up/down with the jack. If it doesn't move at all, make sure you got all the bolts (bottom, side, and top, just under valve cover). If it moves a little, it's hung up on the mounting dogs, use a pry bar and persuade it to move. Back it more or less straight out or else you could warp the clutch disk or torque converter. The dust shield may fall off, no biggie. Ease it down with the jack and you're done. Reverse the process to install. Check condition of tranny seals, rubber mounts, drive shafts, clutch/flywheel/clutch fork/thrust bearing/spring diaphragm if manual and torque converter/flexplate if auto. Good Luck.
Remove plastic covering where the gear change cable go. You'll see the oil level / filler plug on the gearbox casing. 8mm hex head to loosen.
Hey George==If it is full of fluid, the clutched inside are brobably burned. GoodluckJoe
Currently, most automobile automatic transmissions electrically controlled, hydraulically actuated, planetary-geared transmissions.
The electrical components processes inputs, like engine speed, road speed and throttle position to select an appropriate reduction gear-set for given situation. This system then regulates circuits of pressurized fluid which act upon 'so-called' clutch packs. These clutch packs are what mechanically connect the input [engine] power through the various reductions and ultimately to the wheels. To achieve different gear reductions, some will engage, while others disengage from the gear-set. A pump, driven at the input portion of the transmission provides fluid pressure to press the clutches into position.
Slippage (the clutches not doing their job) can be caused by:
Low fluid level - The pump won't provide a large enough volume to supply everything at an appropriate pressure to fully engage clutch-packs. Slippage generates heat which reduces the viscosity of the transmission fluid, thereby making it less effective in it's role as a coupling-agent of the clutches, in turn allowing more slippage, eventually causing excess wear of the clutch-faces.
Contaminated fluid - Water is terrible lubricant, excessive shavings indicate wear or damage and create more, and can eventually clog filters, passages and the pump.
Excessive fluid level - Causes cavitation.
Cavitation - Disrupts the pumps ability to provide pressure, as air is compressible.
Too much input power - The clamping force of the clutch-pack is overcome, generating excessive friction.
Generally for an automatic 5 compleatly empty, but remember when you drain the pan the fluid from the torque converter doesnt come out so a normal change sould be more like 3.5 qts. On a manual drain the fluid into a bucket and measure how much came out, then replace the same amount with new fluid.
The transmission service is performed by lifting the vehicle in order to get access to the transmission pan. Remove all the bolts that hold the pan in place and the fluid will come out when the pan is being lowerd. From there the filter is accesible and should be changed by simply pulling it downward. The new one is installed by pushing it firmly in place where the old one once was. Clean the pan of the transmission completely including the magnet. place new gasket around the pan and reinstall all the pan bolts. be carefull not to over tighten the pan bolts as it can damage the new gasket the you have put on. next, lower the vehicle and add fluid through the dipstick tube located in the engine compartment. It's best to add 4 quarts then start the vehicle and check the level. If more is needed, add accordingly.
There is none. To change the fluid you need to remove the cover - undo one end first to limit the mess - but yes, it's messy.AnswerBest To Have A Good Transmission Shop Do This. Sometimes You Can Miss Alighn The Filter On Some Tranmissions And They Will Go Out. About Changing The Fluid, Even If You Could It Wouldn`t Do The Job Without a New Filter. Good Luck AnswerThere is an excellent write-up on this procedure relating to a Taurus - the steps are the same.
See "Related Questions" below for more
NOTE: dropping the pan alone will NOT change ALL the fluids - specifically the fluid that is in the torque converter. That would require a shop to perform a full fluid change with their specialized equipment.Answerdrop the pan, replace filter, clean pan replace gasket torq bolts to spec. refill to warm line on stick
ASE L-1 Master TransMichigan.comAnswerRemove the pan and then remove the filter on the valve body. Clean the pan and gasket surfaces on pan & trany. Install new filter and pan gasket and gently tighten bolts. Caution, if overtightened it will leak!!! Remember how tight they were when you removed them or get a spec & torque them. Refill the trany through the filler tube, DON'T overfill it or it may not shift properly. To check the fluid level the vehicle needs to be running in park and on a level surface. If you do the above you will only change aprox 40% of the fluid. The torque converter, cooler & lines hold the rest and the fluid won't drain out of them.
I suggest you take it to a shop that has a trany FLUSHING machine and will exchange 100% of the fluid and do the filter & gasket at the same time. Add a bottle of seal conditioner when done. With the price of a new trany this should be done every 80,000 kilometers (50-60,000 miles) or check your owners manual for service intervals. Not a lot of shops have this machine so be selective. Might cost up to $200-250.00 for this service to get it done properly but a proper trany rebuild can be $1500-3000.00 or more in some cases on some vehicles.
Flushing the fluid?
But the system should be flushed. Just dropping the pan and draining the oil and changing the filter on your transmission leaves all the used fluid still in torque converter. Have the system evacuated and totally replacing ALL the fluid is a much better approach. It will cost you more but if you plan on keeping the Ford, it's a worthwhile investment.
For all model years Taurus / Sable, the TSB basically states that Mercon V is now the specified transmission fluid.
See "Related Questions" below for a discussion on transmission fluids, including a Ford technical service bulletin on the topic.
The most probable place that a manual transmission could be leaking from is at the drive axle seals. In this case I don't believe that the transmission would have to bo taken down, but the drive axles will have to be pulled from the transmission in order to change the seals.
The seals around the drive axles need to be replaced. When you replace them, check the surface of the drive axle where the seal was in contact. Is it rough or worn down? If it is rough (damaged or not properly ground during manufacturing) you will probably get a leak again. If it is worn down too much, you will probably get a leak immediately.
When you pull the axles out of the transmission/transaxle, be ready for gear oil or transmission fluid to start pouring out. Have something ready to catch it. Be careful when removing the old seal to not damage the surface where the new seal will go. When you press the new seal into place, ensure that you do all sides evenly at the same time. You can to this by tapping gently all around the seal as it goes in. Generaly try to do it evenly and not any one side too much more that the others. Putting it in crooked can cause it to get damaged and lead to leaks.
I recently replaced one of the seals in my transaxle. The instructions told me to coat the inside with bearing grease when installing it.
If your transmission is not leaking around the axle seals, it may have a leaking gasket that needs to be replaced. Again, be ready for lots of fluid to come spilling out when you break the seal of the gasket.
Another location for leaks is the input shaft of the transmission (near the clutch). The input shaft has a seal around it.
A less likely location for leaks is around the shift linkage. Since the linkage is usually on the top or upper sides, you will seldom get leaks there.
If thermostat is faulty and engine does not reach operating temp and stay at operating temp for a period of time it will not steam away condensation .
Or too many short trips !!!
Transmission fluid is added down the dipstick tube.
5w-30 is the only thing you can use in an Isuzu manual transmission. The way it is designed, if you use 80-90w gear oil, it will burn up the top half of the tranny and the same for the transfer case :)
Taurus / Sable transmission capacities by type and model year
Engine 0r Trans Code
Quarts / Litres
2.5 - 4 cylinder
2.5 - 4 cylinder8.4
2.5 - 4 cylinder
3.0 & 3.8
1994-19953.0 & 3.8
1996-2000 AX4S - Vulcan
12.2 / 11.6
AX4N - Vulcan
13.5 / 12.8
AX4N - Duratec / SHO
13.4 / 12.7
AX4S - Vulcan
(n/a after 2003)
12.2 / 11.6
4F50N - Vulcan 13.5 / 12.8
4F50N - Duratec
(n/a after 2005)
13.4 / 12.7
10.0 / 9.5
These capacity specifications are if the transmission is totally empty, and here's the clincher for us average types: including the torque converter and radiator tank.
For us average types, even when doing a transmission fluid / filter change, do not end up with an empty torque converter.
When you pull the transmission pan for the fluid/filter change, you end up with 4-6 quarts on average. The rest is still up inside the torque converter.
Measure what you drained and start with refilling that amount to put back in to return levels back to normal.
If you're adding fluid, simply use the dipstick - according to the illustrated instructions in the Owners Manual - and add what is necessary.
NOTE: This is one of the points of distinction to having the transmission "flushed" - where a professional shop is going to hookup specialized equipment to achieve a full fluid exchange, or you do the flush yourself ( See "Related Questions" below).
Note #2: Many experts (like the guys on "The Car Show" radio program) assert that exchanging 50-60% of the fluids like would happen when doing a fluid/filter change is GOOD. The oil itself is not deteriorating so much as, what they call the "additive package" dissipates. So the percentage from doing the fluid/filter revives the "additive package" sufficient to support the long life of the transmission.
See "Related Questions" below for much much more - including links to your very own electronic copy of 1996 or newer Taurus/Sable Owners Manuals.What's My Transmission Type?This answer differentiates depending on the transmission and the engine equipped. Normally the 1998+ year model Taurus/Sables had the AX4N Transaxle, whereas the 1996-1997 models had the AX4S. However due to transmission replacements and "one-off's" at the factory, many 1996+ Model Tauri were shipped with the AX4N transaxle and some 1998+ models had the AX4S.
To determine which transmission you have its as easy as climbing under the car and counting the bolts on the transmission pan. You can tell because this will be the largest pan on the vehicle. The AXOD-E (AX4S) has 17 Bolts. the AX4N has 19 Bolts.
Another way to tell is some pans may have AXOD METRIC or AX4N METRIC stamped on it. If it says AXOD METRIC you have the AX4S. (the AX4S used many parts from the AXOD transmission and they are brothers in design however the AX4S is electronic controlled and features some improvements over the AXOD.) If your Pan says AX4N you obviously Have the AX4N.AnswerThat depends on what kind of transmission service we are doing. If we are dropping the pan and replacing the filter, you only get a little more than 1/3 of the fluid out, so we only need about 5 quarts. If we are flushing the transmission, which exchanges all the fluid in the transmission and torque converter, we need about 14 quarts. BTW, use Mercon V fluid.
kolahhfjefjhlogbgbj With the price of a trany replacement ($2-3000) it's good maintenance. Every 50,000miles or 80k is a good rule of thumb. Check your owners manual if in doubt. When you get it done make sure its a total flush not just a pan removal & refill. There is about 40% of the fluid in the trany and the rest is in the torque converter lines & cooler. Dropping the pan only or sucking it out of the dipstick tube will not get all the fluid. A proper service consists of: 100% fluid removal & replacement New valve body filter & trany pan gasket Also suggested is to put in a good seal conditioner - Mazda may have something. Check around and make sure the people you are going to deal with actually do have a flushing machine. They are not that common and lots will tell you they will flush the trany but end up only droping the pan. Might be $150.00 - $240.00 to be done properly depending where you are.
Transmission fluid leaked out of car very fast. After hitting large rock. Could it be the transmission pan is broke? That is a possibility
It uses Diamond Tech/Diamond Pro from Mitsubishi and I can't find it anywhere. A couple of stores tried to sell me a substitute but be careful if you still have a warranty, you'll probably void it...
Things You'll Need:
Ramps or a floor jack Jack stands Drain pan Ratchet New drain plug washer Torque wrench New transmission fluid Step 1: Drive the accord for 15 to 20 minutes to bring the car to a normal operating temperature. Raise the vehicle with ramps or a floor jack. Support it securely with jack stands. Step 2: Place a large drain pan on the ground beneath the transmission. Find the drain plug on the bottom of the transmission and remove it with a ratchet. Step 3: Allow the fluid to drain out until it stops. Install the drain plug with a new washer. In Honda Accords from 1990 to 2000, tighten the drain plug to 36 foot pounds with a torque wrench. In Accords from 1984 to 1989, tighten the plug to 29 foot pounds. Step 4: Refill the transmission with Honda Premium Transmission Fluid. Alternatively, you can use Dexron III automatic Transmission Fluid. Measure the amount of fluid that drained from the transmission and put the same amount of new fluid into the transmission using a funnel. Take care not to overfill the transmission, as this can cause damage. Step 5: Return the Accord to level ground. Start the engine and allow it to idle for a minute or two. Move the gear selector through all the gears, ending in the "Park" position. Step 6: Check the automatic transmission fluid level. Add enough fluid to bring the level to 1/8 inch below the "Add" mark on the dipstick. Step 7: Let the engine run for 15 to 20 minutes to allow it to reach normal operating temperature. Check the fluid level again. The fluid level should be within the "Hot" range on the dipstick. If it isn't, add fluid as needed. If the fluid level is correct, replace the dipstick and close the hood. Tips & Warnings
The intervals at which you change the automatic transmission fluid may vary depending on the year model and the conditions under which you operate the car. Be careful while draining the transmission fluid because it's very hot.
On the automatic transmission, the drain plug is located on the passenger side of the transaxle, near the front of the RF tire. Use a ratchet with a 3/8" extension to remove it (with no socket!), the plug is facing the side of the car.
Note: Changing the transmission fluid at recommended intervals is a good idea from a maintenance standpoint, but if you're having shifting problems, changing the fluid usually doesn't solve them.
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