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First loosen the cable adjuster to give as much slack as possible (basically you're shortening the cable sheath). Then remove the derby cover (large round dome-shaped cover on the chaincase). In the center of the clutch you'll see the adjuster screw with a locknut. Loosen the locknut with an 11/16 wrench and back the adjuster screw out a couple of turns using a 7/32" Allen wrench.

Now turn the adjuster screw inward (clockwise) until it bottoms out, but not real hard. Then back the screw out 1/2 to 3/4 turn and while holding the adjuster screw in that position with the Allen wrench, tighten the locknut securely. Put the derby cover back on.

Now adjust the cable so that there's 1/16" to 1/8" (less is better) inch of play between the ferrule (that's the cable's "collar" at the lever end) and the lever bracket. To get an accurate reading, use one hand to pull the sheath away from the lever bracket while working the lever back & forth with the other hand.

Many people like to adjust their clutch cable so that the clutch engages/disengages when the lever's very close to the grip (so they don't have to reach their fingers as far), but that can cause clunky shifting and difficulty finding neutral because the clutch needs as much travel as possible for the clutch plates to fully separate (disengage). You want the very minimum of free play in the lever, in other words the lever should move only a tiny amount before the clutch starts to disengage.

The only reason you need any free play at all is so there's no undue stress on the throwout bearing (located on the right end of the clutch pushrod).

Don't adjust your clutch for comfort, adjust it for performance. At least 80% of all Harley shifting problems are caused by clutch drag from improper adjustment.

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The synchro cones in the gearbox are worn. Either a strip and replace or a whole gearbox swap is the cure.

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1) Either your cable is frayed inside the cable sheath. (inexpensive, oil the new cable and sheath on replacement)

2)Or the clutch "push-rod" is wearing through the plate and in a short while will fail and need a new clutch. (expensive)

3)Or the little lever on the last housing has slipped on its splined shaft and you need a new one (inexpensive)

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Remove the exaust pipes. Remove the transmission. It is located inside the bell housing section of the transmission.

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stuff called babbit. The same stuff that your brake pads are made of. also known as asbestos really danger for your health

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simple, but involved.

You'll need to remove the transmission and transfer case ( do it separately as they are quite heavy together )

You 'll see the clutch attached to the flywheel still on the engine, remove the bolts holding it on ( pay attention to it's orientation as well as the clutch disk, hole placement as it will be easier to line up the new one )

Once the old one is removed, line up the new clutch ( use an alignment tool, your new clutch may come with one, this makes sure the clutch disk is lined up with the pilot bearing and the center of the clutch springs.

tighten the clutch to torque specs, remove the alignment tool, and reinstall the trans.

One note, I suggest replacing the throw out bearing ( this may include the clutch slave cylinder too ) before reinstalling, you don't want to do this again soon.

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In FCC

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Get a piece of hose that will fit over the bleeder screw on the slave cylindar. Put the other end in a container with enough brake fluid in it to cover the end of the hose. Then slowly pump the clutch. Should take less than one filling of the master to bleed the system. Tighten the bleeder screw and done.

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First what you want to do is order a throw out bearing, clutch pack and pressure plate. There should be a little plastic piece about the size and shape of a highlighter that comes with it to line everything up.

Now first step dissconnect your battery. Jack the front of the car. Take off the large nut in the middle of each wheel that holds on your cv's. These shafts connect to your transmission. Now dissconect all the linkage from your transmission and everything that that's connected to your engine that will get snagged when you lift it out. The only thing that should be left attached in your engine mounts. Use a floor jack and put it under your transmission. Take off all the bolts holding your engine to your transmission leaving one bolt at the top still in. Slowly loosen last bolt and a gap should appear between engine and transmission. You should then hoist up your engine after removing engine mount bolts. this makes the angle less and much easier to remove transmission. Once it is removed it weighs about 100Ibs. Not to heavy so manhandle it out of the way. Now what you are left with is looking at the old clutch and pressure plate. Depending on your flywheel you may need to have it machined if the rivits from the clutch pack have worn into it. Always replace the bearing it's about 20$ or a risk having to tear the whole thing apart again. Now replace clutch and remember FW stands for fly wheel make sure this part of the clutch pack faces the fly wheel. All that's left is to put everything back together and break it in. Don't forget to adjust the clutch once everything is assembled.

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yes, but no

technically it can be done.. but it would be very expensive.

It's not just replacing the tranny, you'll need a new starter,ignition, differential ... the list goes on.

It's cheaper to trade in your car for a manual.

PS: Why? As automatics go, the is300 has a great one. If your boosting performance you could upgrade your tranny ( or parts) to handle the increase strain. If you just want the control, get used to the paddles (buttons, with some practice they're very useful - try going into a sharp turn at 60, keep your foot on the gas, down shift , and power through)

or

trade in for a stick.

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Usually, if this sound is of very short duration it is because you replaced the filter. The oil filter on your engine has incorporated an anti-drainback valve which, once removed, removes oil from your engine passages that usually remain filled with oil. Upon starting the engine, it may take several seconds for oil pressure to reach normal levels and achieve quiet operation.

Note that on most fuel injected GM vehicles, the engine should not start until acceptable oil pressure is achieved and this noise indicates unacceptable quality of oil is being used.

Many modern engines made by European auto makers (notably MB and WV) require very specific properties in engine oil. Be sure that you are using an oil that meets the manufacturer's specifications.

If you have a Hyundai 4-cylinder engine and the noise lasts for more than about 3 to 4 seconds you may have an internal engine problem. If the noise persists for a few days or longer, consult with a mechanic.

== == On many vehicles with hydraulic valve lash adjustment (hydraulic lifters or hydraulic rockers) you should not change the oil with a warm or hot engine. If you do so, avoid any highway driving until the engine cools down to ambient temperature. Noise may indicate that you are damaging the engine's valvetrain.

it could be of an old beat up engine and a cylinder is bad..when that goes bad so does the ring..if you have that, it must be replaced.. a.s.a.p. i t could be a shortage of oil, transmission fluid, no oil, bad oil.. It is not abnormal for an engine to 'rap' for a few seconds on the first start immediately after an oil change; it takes a moment for the fresh oil to make its way to the valvetrain. If the rap is persistent, the above answer holds good suggestions 1. check the Oil Dip stick to see if you have oil in the engine 2. What does the oil pressure guage say your pressure is on he dash 3. did you recently fill up with gas that is junky may be 4. it could be a spun bearing, if so you will have to get it fix How to check if it is a spun bearing very simple dran the oil out of your truck Check the Bolt that you took out of the oil pan and see if there are small metal flaks stuck to it, also look up in the oil pan bolt hole to see if you see large metal pieces there. pretty simple cure in most cases just add oil to the filter before installation make sure the filter it top-ed off this should minimze the knock to less then a second I agree with the previous answer of topping the oil filter. In addition, if the noise is still present, change the filter again, and spray brake clean into the oil filter nipple. I would change the oil again at this point.

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It uses two cables because one cable is used to pull the gear selector toward Low and the other cable is to pull the gear selector toward Park. If one is bad, you should always replace both.

It's expensive because they are somewhat annoying and time consuming to get to, and each cable costs typically over $40.

You really shouldn't expect to get out of a shop for under $200 labor, so it's about right.

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nobody answers on wikianswers

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Drain the trans fluid and toss it Take the Track bar off the rear axle Unbolt the brake line brackets from the rear axle Unbolt the lower shock bolts Use a Jack to support the rear axle and disconnect the rear shocks, then lower the axle. BE VERY CAREFUL TO NOT KILL YOUR BRAKE LINES WHEN YOU DO THIS Take the Rear Coil springs out. Take the Rear bolts out of the Torque Arm Take the Front bolts out of the Torque Arm Bracket Pull the Torque arm. Make a mark on the Driveshaft and the Rear Axle Pinion Flange so you know which side is up. Unbolt the rear U-Joint Straps. Pull the Driveshaft out of the Transmission Disconnect any sensors or cables on the Transmission Use a jack to slighty lift the Transmission and remove the Crossmember bolts Take out the Crossmember Remove the Transmission from the Bellhousing (4 Bolts) Have someone else handy and one of you get on each side of the transmission and pull it backward and down to get it out Disconnect the Clutch fork push rod and spring Unbolt the Bellhousing from the motor (10 or 12 bolts if I remember right) Take the Clutch Fork out If you are going to reuse the pressure plate then mark the flywheel and the pressure plate so you get them lined back up Put an alignment tool in the clutch Making a star pattern, (like tightening lug nuts), ONE TURN AT A TIME loosen the clutch to flywheel bolts YOU WILL HAVE TO RESURFACE THE FLYWHEEL, SANDING THE FLYWHEEL DOES NOT COUNT AS RESURFACING IT, THE FLYWHEEL WILL HAVE TO BE RESURFACED AT A MACHINE SHOP, if it is already too thin it will need to be replaced. YOU WILL HAVE TO EITHER HAVE THE PRESSURE PLATE REBUILT, OR BUY A NEW ONE. THROW AWAY THE CLUTCH DISC, IT CANNOT BE REBUILD, RESURFACED, OR OTHERWISE REUSED. Installation of the clutch is basically the reverse of the Removal

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This is goo video that demonstrates gravity bleeding very well it is very stait forward and easy, just imagine the bell housing around the clutch to get a feel of were the bleeder screw is. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HgNTDGwcjZc

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Luk is very good clutch kit.One of the world leader

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Here are some easy steps to bleed the system.First make sure the clutch reservoir is full of fluid.Next on your bleeder container fill it half way with clean brake fluid.Next get under the truck with this and connect your line and open the bleeder and have a helper manually push the clutch pedal until the old fluid starts to flow into the container and air bubbles start.Do this until the container is almost full.Close the bleeder and recheck the reservoir and top it off(leave the cap on the reservoir off while doing this).Now go thru the same steps and this may take two to three times to clear the old fluid or air bubbles out of the line or system.Each time you fill the container empty the container to half full you are draining the old fluid into.This should not take longer than twenty minutes to do.I recommend having a can of brake cleaner to clean the area and tools you use.In my experience it take about 3 times of filling the container at the slave to clear the system and have nice clean fluid in the resevior.Never run the fluid empty in the clutch reservoir itself.I would buy a big bottle of dot 3 or 4 fluid are fine so you do not run out.Hope this is clear enough and a easy process.Note if the slave cylinder is leaking fluid due to wear replace it,unless you did replace it or the fluid is black and you are just flushing the system.Ok

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T5 Transporter clutch fluid is contained within the break fluid reservoir.

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a better way of fixing it is to find the wires going into the switch and just join them together thus bypassing the switch and the need the buy a new switch if that is the problem and the need to press the clutch at the same time

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You don't use clutch fluid for a manual transmission vehicle.

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You cannot adjust the clutch on the s-series.

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unfortunately Saturn went out on a limb to produce easy swappable parts in their cars. the clutch hydraulic system can not be bleed. it was intended on being replaced as an entire unit, filled with fluid and bleed at the factory. I've made many trips the salvage yards to obtain a entire assembly.

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Clutch, Pressure plate and throw out bearing should run less than 100 $ for parts, I would guess around 80$ or so. I do all my own work so I can only take a shot in the dark at it but expect around 40 an hour and 3 to 4 hours so I would guess 400 to 500 bucks. clutch jobs are fairly simple to do. Just a lot of hassle because the tranny is fairly heavy and some of the bolts are hard to get at

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If that's the case, then I'd take it back to the dealer and leave it with them a few days when cold weather is expected. Since your paying in the neighborhood of .55 cents a mile for the first 36,000 miles to own it, let them earn it.

Is the car new or how many km's/miles has it done? Is the grunt a sort of a buzzing sound? Could be damage in the pump or the pump is drawing in air from somewhere.

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