Ahh, the p0402 check engine light.
First make sure you're using throttle body cleaner, not carburetor cleaner. Carb cleaner will eat away at the lining on the inside of your manifold.
First remove the EGR valve. It's right on the back of your manifold and looks like a metal mushroom. Next unplug the wiring harness and hang it out of the way. The valve itself comes off fairly easy with two 10mm screws although you'll notice a wire brace has to be removed to get the screws out.
Now take the valve itself and go to town with your cleaner and some q-tips. Also, you'll notice that you can take a pencil and push down on the actual valve mechanism through the top hole. Do this as you clean to make sure the cleaner goes all the way through the valve.
Once the valve itself is as spotless as you can get it try your best to clean the insides of the holes on the manifold itself. When you're done replace the valve and the wiring harness and make sure it's bolted on nice and tight. There's no reason to use a gasket on this part. Then replace the wiring harness.
Now disconnect your positive battery terminal for about 20 seconds to turn off the check engine light and go for a drive. If the CEL comes back on then try again, otherwise you're good.
Simply Adjustment 1
The hand brake adjustment is inside the plastic cover just over the hand brake lever. Use a Philips screw driver to unscrew the short screw then pull the 2-part covers apart then remove. Look down toward the floor direction and you will see a cable ending with a slot like end. To tighten the parking brake, use a large flat end screw driver, turn clockwise. The manual suggests 7~9 clicks to lock the rear brake.
Simple Adjustment 2
The hand brake or parking brake is supposed to be self-adjusting. Thus if you turn the adjustment screw clockwise and you pulled the handbrake lever with all your might still unable to lock the rear wheels you can do the next thing before getting your hands dirty.
Turn the adjustment screw counter clockwise, yes loosen it. I suggest you put the car on the drive way with a slight incline or decline when you do this. Pump the brake several times. Now pull up the handbrake while letting go of the pedal. The lever should be easier to pull. Else repeat loosen-and-pump procedure. Then use the screw driver to turn the adjuster clockwise so that the rear wheel will lock at 7~9 clicks. Put back the plastic covers for the lever and replace the screw.
If the easy fix does not work, something is probably wrong. Read the following:
Adjustment 3 (Gloves and wrenches apply)
There is a bolt with a 14mm head on the back of each rear caliper. Actually there are two bolts of this size, one holds the bracket for the handbrake, one unscrews to gain access to the caliper adjuster. Pull the one covering the adjuster (don't worry, no fluid should come out!) and you will find an Allen type adjusting screw. It takes a 4mm wrench to turn it. The technique is to (with the handbrake off) turn the adjuster in (clockwise) while rotating the brake rotor by hand. As soon as it stops or you feel a heavy drag, stop and back the adjuster off 1/3 turn.
Make sure that the rotor now turns freely. Reinstall the 14mm bolt and repeat the procedure on the other side.
*If* your Allen bolt strips.....Don't panic! You can use a magnet or a snap ring pliers (stick the points in the socket of the Allen bolt and expand to grab the adjuster) to get the damaged adjuster out. When you get it out you will see that the teeth on the adjuster are ground up. Either file or grind the damaged end 'til it's cleaned up, grease it up and reinstall. A little spray grease whenever you're adjusting is always a good idea and will help prevent this problem in the first place.
Underneath your vehicle, a steel threaded cable comes from the back of one hub and is joined by a short cable from the other hub--then the original cable runs to a threaded end with an adjuster nut in it--and one smaller nut on the end outside of that--(this is the equalizer bar)--you'll see it real close to your transmission.
You might have to jack-up the back of the vehicle???
Pull the parking brake lever up sharply and then release it. Pull the parking brake lever to the second click and leave it there. You're looking for a slight drag of the brake shoes when you spin the wheels. To increase the drag, get under at the equalizer bar and turn the adjusting nut to take up the slack in the cables. Get out and spin the rear wheels if you think it's to tight. I will say don't be afraid to crank on it for a while as in this case, a little adjustment really does not go a long way. When you think you have the drag right, go back in the car and pull the brake up the the fourth click. At this point the wheels should be locked and you should not be able to turn them even when trying hard. If you can, tighten them up a little more. Once you've done this, release the brake and make sure the wheels spin freely. If they are still binding due to the parking brake, back off the adjustment a little. And that's basically the whole adjustment procedure.
possibley change the valve guide seals
It is in the air cleaner housing
I have a '93 with a blinking airbag light. I have been told by a couple of repair places that the only way to fix it is to take apart the entire dash on the car which would be very very expensive. Mine has been blinking for three years.
Trouble code P0705 means:Transmission range sensor circuit malfunction
That happened to my 92 Miata, both sides. Turns out not to be a big problem. First you have to remove the window winder, a clip ring remover, or clever use of a thin screwdriver can pop it off. Remove the door grip screws, door latch screws. (philips) remove the speaker cover, (4 or 5 pop out connectors) and lift off the inside door cover (several pop out connectors). lift the door cover up when removing. Use a razor blade to slice the vapor/water barrier thick mil plastic from the door. A cable (like a bicycle cable), that operates the window in window guides has a tendency to get caught under the white plastic window 'rollers'. I used two small zapstraps to pull the cable toward the door, just enough to stay out of the way of the round white plastic window guide when the window descends. You don't want to kink the cable. I would suggest you lubricate the cable end as well. Watch out for the sharp edges of metal on the inside of the door, some are razor sharp, and it can be hard to reach in to find a place to locate the cable ties. The second time I did this job, I drilled my own holes to accomodate the cable ties (also called zap straps) to get the best place to secure the cable, again, without changing the cable path more than necessary. Hope this helps.
In the center console, between the seats. Pull up on the release. Sometimes the door can get stuck. Have one person hold the release up, while a second person tries to gently lift the gas lid.
if its vibrating while up: check the pushrods are not worn, there are nylon bushings at either end. if they are worn it will shake. if it vibrates while down, check behind the light, there's a small gromit where the housing will sit when retracted, often this can loosen and not seat on the light correctly.
the correct torque for cylinder head bolt of kia pregio 2.7 diesel is 130-135ft-lbs.
It is something that happens in pretty much all the NA's and NB's (first and second generations). I have noticed it more so at 65, along with many other people. It is nothing to be concerned about.
Rare problem... access the pump (under the package shelf) and check to see if it's getting 12 volts while cranking. If so, replace the pump. If not, start checking relays, etc. Could be the computer is not closing the relay because it doesn't know the engine is cranking (bad cam position sensor, etc.) I'd guess it's not the pump (15 years Miata specialist).
The horn is right in front of the radiator, on the passenger side on the 2000 Miata. You can see the bracket holding the horn, just to the left of center next to the hood locking mechanism.
The battery is a Mt-MX5. This is a Interstate battery part#. fits 1990-2008 Mazda Miata. Go to interstatebattiers.com to find a dealer near you.
Idler pulley takes up the extra slack from the serpentine belt.Serpentine belt, drives accesories from the crankshaft ie., usually,. water pump, power steering pump, altenator,air conditioner compressor. Older vehicles had separate belts for driving these componants and each had it's own adjustment location which was done manually,[which is why belts would schreech when loose] most of the newer stuff has idler pulleys which are self adjusting [spring loaded]the bad part is serpentine belts can be pricey and the bearing in the idler pulley can tend to wear out and the whole unit has to be replaced. L. Keedy It controls the routing of the belt. The amount of contact betwen a pulley and the belt determines how much power will be available for the alternator, power steering pump or water pump. One of the idler pulleys is mounted on an arm that is spring loaded to keep force on the pulley. It's called a tensioner pulley or belt tensioner. That makes sure the belt is tight and able to transfer power properly.
The IAT ( Intake Air Temperature ) sensor is located on the back of the air cleaner housing.
I just bought a keyless remote for a 2002 Mazda Miata. I bought the car from a dealer and the remotes were missing. The keyless remote came with instructions as follows. However they did not work for me and I never got the buzz sound at the end of step 4 d. I am now wondering if my Miata actually has the remote module system installed? If anyone can tell me how to verify or test the remote module system it would be appreciated. Anyway, if the folloing works for anyone I would be pleased to learn of it. 1. Begin with all keys out of the ignition. 2. Close all doors. 3. Open drivers door and leave open. 4. Perform the following steps within 24 seconds. a. Insert key into ignition and turn to ON (without cranking the engine). b. Turn key to OFF and remove from ignition. c. Repeat steps a. and b. two more times. d. Push driver door frame button three times. 5. Buzz sound or chime should be heard at this point signalling that the vehicle is now in programming mode. If not, then wait 40 seconds and return to step 4. 6. All transmitters need to be programmed at this time, including the old ones. Push any button on the first transmitter two times. A chime should sound signalling that the vehicle has accepted the new transmitter code. a. IF THERE IS ONLY ONE TRANSMITTER, press any button on the same transmitter twice until a chine sounds. Repeat this step one last time with the single transmitter for a total of three programmings. b. IF THERE ARE TWO TRANSMITTERS, press any button on the second transmitter twice until a chine sounds. Repeat this step one last time with the second transmitter for a total of three programmings. c. IF THERE ARE THREE TRANSMITTERS, press any button on the second and third transmitters twice (one after the other) until the chime has sounded for each of the three transmitters. 7. Push driver frame button one time. Two buzz sounds or chimes should be heard at this point signalling successful progamming. 8. Test transmitter(s) for function. Good luck.
No, they have standard dual overhead cam, piston engines, at least from 90-05.
put the top up It's probably the rain rail. This is a strip of rubber and plastic attached to the rear bottom edge of the soft top. You can't see it because it is below the point where the soft top and the body panels meet - just forward of the trunk lid. Its job is to collect water that runs down the back of the top and direct it to drain holes that are located in the body just in back of each door. What usually happens: - The plastic portion is thin polystyrene. After about 5 years is cracks and starts to leak. This is made worse if leaves have slid down the top and gotten in there. - You can buy a replacement rain rail from Moss motors (miatamania.com) for about $125. Replacing it is a headache, but not terribly difficult. Figure on about 5 hours if you are reasonably handy with tools; and you will need a friend to help. Get a shop manual to tell you how. The Miata Enthusiast's Shop Manual is excellent. You can get it from flyinmiata.com Before you buy the rain rail, make sure the drains are not plugged. The shop manual will tell you where they are. It's possible this is the cause of your problem, but in my experience not likely.
The fuel pump is in the fuel tank. It is accessed by removing a cover on top of the tank. The cover is under the carpet on the rear deck. Since you are dealing with gasoline (highly flammable) I strongly recommend you get a shop manual. It will have detailed instructions on removal and replacement of the pump. My favorite is the "Mazda Miata 1.8 Liter Enthusiasts Shop Manual". You can find it on this list: http://www.miata.net/faq/miata_publications.html It's not a difficult job, but it's important to do it correctly.
automatic has a dipstick under the hood. manual should have a plug on the side of it.
This explains it all.
I did this and had my codes reset after doing lots of other things this gets the job done right! Vacuum hose rerouting evidently the factory sent out the 1999's wrong and you don't see the problem until later on BUT THIS FIX WITH PICTURES AND DIAGRAMS IS VERY GOOD..... then have your codes reset.
I have had mine done and Ive been good for over two years!
Between the tank and the engine ....
The fuel filter is located underneath the car on the passenger (right) side. It is located just forward of the fuel tank and is covered by a protective plate.
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