it is fairly simple you need 2 seals 2 felts unbolt the back retaining ring there is two sets of half rings with a seal and a felt sandwiched in between them. You will cut your seal and felt to fit them over the axle housing. first lay out two half retainer rings where the ends meet at 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock turn the cut part of the seal about to 1 o'clock then put cut in felt at about 11 clock then set your last two retaining rings with ends at 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock. and your done.
135 ohms new, and will function properly down to 114 ohms.
The chart in the '86-'87 book shows:
Empty=110 ohms +/- 7 ohms
Full=3 ohms +/- 2 ohms
1/2 full= 32.5 ohms +/- 4 ohms
Here is the sizes and dimensions along with specifications for the Suzuki Samurai.
1986 to 1995 sold in 2-door soft and hardtop models. Available in JX, JL, and JA trim packages. Equipped with a 1.3 8-valve I-4 engine.
The Samurai was the first Suzuki truck official sold in the United States through proper dealer channels. It's design was very much a carry over from the 1985 SJ410. So much so, that the 1986 Samurai's and 1984-95 SJ410's look exactly the same, except for body tags. In Canada it was introduced in the 1985 1/2 model year, in the US in 1986.
Depending on where it was sold in the world, the vehicle goes by three different names: Samurai (North and South America), Sierra (Europe, Australia and New Zealand), and Jimny (Asia). It is also known as the Suzuki Santana and the Maruti Gypsy. Mazda sells a re-badged new body style Jimny as the Mazda AZ-Off-road. Chevy also sells the newer Jimny in other countries. It's also known as the Holden Drover.
In North America the Samurai was never totally re-modeled, but various changes have happened over the years. A long wheel base version, a SJ410 carry over never released in the US, was discontinued in other countries in 1987. JA and JX models were offered from 1986-90, JL and 2WD models were offered from 1990-94. The 1994 US models did not have back seats due to new safety regulations.
In July 1988, Consumer Reports ran an article headlined "The Suzuki rolls over too easily." Suzuki stopped selling the Samurai in the North America in 1994 after a sharp drop in sales in that the company blames on CU's test result. However, the Sierra and Jimny continue to be sold in Europe, Australia and Asia.
In 1996, Suzuki gave the Sierra and Jimny a face lift which renewed buyer interest. Many other components were upgrade and fine tuned, but the most popular Suzuki 4x4 ever still retained its
narrow track and boxy look.
The 1999 model year brought about another, and perhaps the most ambitious, face lift for the "SJ" line. The body was completely redesigned featuring a slightly more rounded and modernized look. The dual solid axles and 2spd t-case were retained unlike many other 4WDs that had already made the switch to IFS and road biased all wheel drive. The hard top model returned as well as a new style convertible. This model continues to see strong sales and popularity all over the world and is also sold under both Mazda and Chevy badges.
Suzuki has rumored a new small true 4WD vehicle is in the works, possibly the next Jimny or its replacement. Speculations abound about the new platform, but rumors are pointing to a 2007 or 2008 release.
1986 Samurai Specs
Vehicle type: Two-door, hard and soft top
Vehicle class: Sport / utility
Power train layout: Front engine, four-wheel drive
Body structure: Body with chassis frame
Body: material Steel
Seating capacity: Four
Front Leaf spring solid axle
Rear Leaf spring solid axle
Steering gear box Manual ball nut
Turning radius 16.7 ft. (5.1 m)
Toe in 0.08 - 0.24 in. (2 - 6 mm)
Caster angle 3° 30'
King pin angle 9° 00'
Type Power-assisted hydraulic
Front Disc, floating caliper
Rear Drum leading and trailing
Parking brake Lever-hand operated
Wheels and Tires:
Wheel Type Steel
Wheel size 15 x 5" (381 x 127 mm)
Tire type All-season, steel-belted radial
Tire size P205/70R15
Spare size Full-size
Safety belts Front and rear lap / shoulder belts
EPA Estimates - Manual
City 23 MPG
Highway 25 MPG
EPA Estimates - Automatic
City 21 MPG
Highway 24 MPG
Type 1.3-liter, four-cylinder, in-line, 8-valve OHC
Block material Aluminum
Bore x Stroke 2.91 in. x 3.03 in. (74 mm x 77 mm)
Displacement 80.8 cu. in. (1.3 liter)
Compression ratio 8.9:1
Induction system Carburetor
Horsepower (SAE net) 60 hp @ 6500 rpm (45 kw)
Torque (SAE net) lb.-ft. @ 3500 rpm
Type Five-speed, all synchromesh
Clutch Dry, single disc, diaphragm spring
Transfer gear ratios
Low (4WD) 2.268
Differential ratio 3.73:1
Capacities / Calculated Data:
Engine oil 7.4 U.S. pt. (3.5 liters)
Fuel tank 10.6 U.S. gal. (40.3 liters)
Engine coolant 10.69 U.S. pt. (5 liters)
Manual (4WD) 2.76 U.S. pt. (1.3 liters)
Differential gear oil
Front 4.2 U.S. pt. (2.0 liters)
Rear 3.2 U.S. pt. (1.5 liters)
Transfer gear box oil 1.7 U.S. pt. (0.8 liter)
Wheelbase 79.9 in. (2030 mm)
Front 51.2 in. (1300 mm)
Rear 51.6 in. (1310 mm)
Overall Length 135.0 in. (3430 mm)
Overall Width (Body) 60.2 in. (1530 mm)
Overall Height 65.6 in. (1665 mm)
Minimum ground clearance 8.1 in. (205 mm)
Manual 2094 lb. (942 kg)
Gross Vehicle Wt. Rating 2923 lb. (1315 kg)
Gross Axle Wt. Rating
Front 1257 lb. (566 kg)
Rear 1675 lb. (754 kg)
Length 32.5 in (826 mm)
Width 50.0 in. (1270 mm)
Height 40.2 in (1021 mm)
Year by Year changes:
In the first year of sales in the US, the Samurai came equipped with a carbureted 1324cc, 4 cylinder, 4-stroke, 64HP engine with 100Nm Torque and a 5-speed transmission. The available body styles were convertible with vinyl soft top, convertible with fiberglass hardtop and a full steel bodied hard top. Each of these configurations had two bucket seats in the front and a bench seat in the rear. The Samurai would seat 4. The JA and JX models were offered from 1986-90. The JX came with a in-dash clock and a tachometer. You could buy it as a hardtop, soft top convertible, or with removable hardtop.
Halfway through 1988 Suzuki made a few changes. They redesigned the dash with square holes in place of the round ones, placed a small storage area in the dash area and a different shifter knob was used. The suspension was softened for a (very) slightly better ride. A lower fifth gear was placed in the transmission and a bigger radiator was used to cool the engine better. The transfer case flanges were changed to a larger bolt pattern. I have also been told that they put weather stripping on the top bow and slightly redesigned grille , although I don't have the info on the differences yet.
In 1990, Suzuki added fuel injection to the 1.3L engine, which in turn increased the horsepower to a massive 66 HP. The transmission and transfer case bearings were changed to the sealed design. They also removed two of four spider gears from front differential and the wheelbase increased an inch or two to improve the ride further. The JL and 2WD models were offered from 1990-94.
Suzuki changed the grill design slightly.
The back seats were removed in order to meet new US safety regulations.
In 1995 the Samurai model was discontinued in US and Canada
Although not sold in the US Suzuki made many design changes in 1996.
1996 Engine & Transmission
- exhaust muffler capacity increased to improve gas flow and reduce noise
- 5th gear ratio decreased (0.975 to 0.864)
- higher diff ratio (3.727 to 3.909)
- transfer gear ratio changed (High: 1.409 to 1.320; Low: 2.268 to 2.123)
- rubber mounted revised clutch cable eliminates vibration
- new transmission "Mass Damper" to reduce vibrations
- new viscous coupling engine fan reduces noise
- new high voltage transistor coil
- new larger capacity radiator
- larger 42 litre capacity fuel tank (from 40L)
- power steering added
Suspension & Brakes
- front and rear leaf springs replaced by an "Isolated Trailing Link and Coil Spring" design, providing the most remarkable improvement in ride and handling
- the brake booster diameter has been increased by 25mm (1 inch) to 200mm (8 inches), improving the stopping power dramatically
- coil springs with twin control arms for each axle
- new hood, front fenders, windscreen panel, grill and indicator/parking lamps
- under hood insulation
- front and rear bumpers have been slightly restyled and are now polypropylene
- the traditional side stripe has been discontinued
- high level brake light is standard on the hard top and also on the soft top via a special mounting on the spare wheel bracket
- halogen head lights replace the old sealed beams
- revised vinyl material on the Soft Top hood.
- improved door seals.
- chassis strength increased through two side-frames and five cross-members
- rubber mountings between body and chassis to absorb road vibration and reduce cabin noise
- side-protection beams
- totally revised dashboard with silver reflective gauges, including tachometer
- new wide, three spoke, urethane soft-grip steering wheel with collapsible steering column
- new front bucket seats with more lateral support and new upholstery (vinyl trim in S/Top, cloth trim in H/Top)
- comprehensive sound deadening material between the dashboard and firewall
- the front seat belt buckle position has been relocated to the side of the seat rather than floor mounted
- new molded door trims
- new improved brake and clutch pedal layout
- new plush cut pile carpet on hard top models
- console box between the front seats
- rear split folding bench
- tinted glass on rear side and back windows
Superior White, Antares Red, Reddish Blue (Metallic), Aqua Green (Metallic)
They stopped importing it into the US after the 1995 year model.
lets assume that all tests have been done. ie. presence of emissions in the cooling system. cylinder leak down indicates hi leakage into cooling system ect. if these tests prove these theorys then cylinder head service will be needed. further testing of the head will need to be done after removal to determine the cause. however lets keep it simple.is there exessive consumtion of coolant? humidity and cold temperatures can cause this sign of milky oil in the cap and is no indication of falty or "broken" car.
Two steps shold be followed with all suzuki products: 1. Drive car into the largest body of water you can find. 2. Buy a Honda or Toyota.
Ta dum ching! Thank you, thank you I got a million of em....
But seriously...you need to consider that loss of power and address it alone. If the car is not overheating, then ignore the goo in the cap. Certain climates are worse for this than others. Try to fix the drivability problem first, and it will lead you back to the head if its bad.
Sounds like all the previous answers are possible. However, if you get to removing the cylinder head it is always worth getting it pressure checked as these heads do have a tendancy for going porous due to rubbish grade aluminum being used in the casting process. this gives the same symptoms as a failed head gasket. they can be welded as a repair, but may well end up in the cylinder head needing replacement.
Well the only size you can run are 235/75 on a 15 in stock rim I have BFGoodrich A/T KO had to trim the bumper bracket only because it got hit in the front but the other front doesn't rub...if you want 30's you'd have to cut of the ends to the bumber bracket behind the bumber but then you lose your bumber and turn signals. You do lose articulation when you go up in size with out a lift kit though.
the starter relay is located in a black plastic box on the driver side of the engine compartment
It's been a few years since I've done this but I can give you a general idea. (I put over 250K miles on my samurai, my kid put over 180K on his, and I used to work on other friends' samurais as well, so I've pulled transmissions and transfer cases probably a dozen or more times.) The transfer case shifter is easier to remove than the transmission, if I remember correctly. But do you even really need to remove the shifter at all? If you are removing the transfer case in order to pull back the transmission to do a clutch job, for example, you probably don't need to pull the transfer case shifter...you can unscrew the shifter knob, unscrew the bolts around the rubber shield, and pull the rubber shield up off the transfer case shifter. At that point you can probably unbolt and remove the transfer case from under the car...3 (14mm?) bolts hold the transfer case to the frame, but of course you would have to remove the 3 driveshafts (4 bolts each on flanges) first. Unplug the electrical wiring to the transfer case (lights up the 4WD light inside) and you can just drop the case itself. BUT, if you REALLY want to remove the transfer shifter, unscrew the shifter knob, unbolt the rubber shield, pull that up off the knob, There are 3 small bolts holding the base of the shifter onto the transmission case. Take them out and the shifter should pull out I may be confusing the transmission shifter with the transfer case shifter. Both start out the same way, but ONE of them(transfer case) you have to push down on the shifter and twist it maybe a 1/4 turn, to the left I think....that will release it and then it pulls right out. It's a lot easier to remove it than when working backwards and putting it back in...getting it lined up, pushed down, and twisted can be a bit of a handful at times, but keep working at it and you can get it done. One other VERY COMMON shifting thing(transmission)...there is a small 10mm bolt with a narrowed tip,(also known as gear locator) that bolts through the flange on the transmission shifter housing, from the back. The narrow tip fits into a groove on the ball at the bottom of the transmission shifter. WHEN (notice I say WHEN and not IF) the tip of this bolt breaks, your transmission shifter will wiggle like crazy...floping around all over the place, making it just about impossible to figure out what gear it is in as it flops all over in EVERY gear. It is a VERY easy fix. remove the bolt I described. Either buy the real replacement from Suzuki or one of the aftermarket Suzuki places, or, take a new 10mm bolt(10x18.4) , and grind the threads off the last 1/4 inch of it so it has a narrow tip that will fit in the shifter groove. Bolt it back in and you're on your way. Note if the tip of the original broke all the way off it might have dropped all the way down into your transmission. Do you feel lucky? In a perfect world if the tip is missing you should probably pull the transmission apart, find it, and remove it before it breaks gears. But the gasket kit for the transmission was about $250 last time I bought one...so I would probably let it go. But then when I had Samurais there were still a lot of them around, so worse comes to worse I'd hit the junkyard and buy replacement used components. Now they are harder to find so you may want to take a more conservative approach. Sammy's are GREAT! Put a 4:1 transfer case kit in em, rebuild the axles with Geo Tracker center sections, and add a locker: That's how mine was eventually setup, running 31" tires on stock rims, with a homemade 3" body lift so everything would clear. I'd air the tires down to about 8psi and the little thing would go ANYWHERE. It was just a pain keeping it CA Smog legal. Have fun, hope this rambling helped.
Oklahoma city, OK
Geo (a subsidiary of GM/Chevrolet) began production of numerous vehicles in 1988. The 3-cylinder in question was developed by Suzuki and used in the Chevrolet Sprint, Pontiac Firefly, Suzuki Swift, and Geo Metro. Geo itself lived for ten years being swallowed by corporate GM in 1998. The Metro lived on as the Chevrolet Metro for two more years with the 3-cylinder 1.0L engine only available in the base hatchback - the sedan with the 1.3L 4-cylinder engine survived into 2001 as a fleet-sales only vehicle. So, year 2000 would basically be your answer.
OK, 1st off I can't give you a definitive answer...but I worked on older Samurai's A LOT, and they and early Geo Trackers and Sidekicks) had a lot of similarities... Short story: Lots of owners of earlier Samurai's converted them to fuel injection using parts from newer Samurai's...or converted them to 1600 cc setups using 8-valve Geo Tracker or Suzuki Sidekick engines. So having a newer Samurai setup and using an older block would be about the same thing, just into a newer rather than older chassis when you're done. There were 2 different 'short blocks' used in Suzuki Samurai's. One ended in letter 'a' the other letter 'b', and I think there was a VERY small difference in displacement...like the earlier one was about 1300 cc and the newer one around 1297 cc I think. But they were interchangable...I remember the 1st time I got a replacement engine for my 86 I was told by the machine shop that all the short blocks were essentially interchangable. Even new replacement pistons were the same for either block (or for that matter, for the 8 valve 1600 cc engines for trackers as well.) Hope this helps. Hope this helps. Clarification to my earlier remarks: They were related to a 'short block' not a 'long block'. The cylinder heads did change over the years between carburated versions and fuel injected versions, mainly by no longer having an eccentric off the back of the camshaft to drive a pin that went through a hole in the rear passenger side of the head to drive the mechanical fuel pump. Since fuel injected models do not use a mechanical fuel pump, this was no longer needed. You might still be able to use an older cylinder head on a newer engine, even if the newer engine is fuel injected, by removing the pin and blocking off the no-longer-needed fuel pump port. I think all Samurai's used 8 valve engines, unlike Geo Trackers and Suzuki Sidekicks that eventually went over to 4 valve per cylinder, 16 valve totals. An 8 valve cylinder head will NOT work on a 16 valve intake/exhaust port setup...
Mine takes 5qt. But check the dipstick it will tell you when its full.
remove rubber plug from transmission bell housing located on drivers side .start the engine and warm engine to normal operating temperature (failure to warm up engine to proper temp will result in incorrect timing) after warming engine make sure that idle is set to spec 800 +or-50 rpm (failure to set idle to spec will cause incorrect timing) connect timing light to spark plug wire number 1 .now looking at the bell housing opening where you removed the rubber plug in the middle towards the back of the opening there is a notch this is your timing match mark.on the flywheel is your timing marks for 86,87 samurai timing should be set at 10 deg b.t.d.c
OH YEAH!!!! i have a 1986 sammie blew up the 1.3 and bought a 1994 sidekick. Check out this swap!!!! we took the motor 5 speed tranny and transfer case from the 94 married a sammie t-case to it and put it in my sammie! it has so much power!!! you have to get the wiring harness out of the sidekick to run it and the fuel pump out of the gas tank to make it work. we made all new brackets and mounts. duel t-cases its bad ass!!! need to know more e-mail me at EightySixou812@yahoo.com. I have lots of pics.
Any bearing making noise more than likely needs replacing.
Any bearing making noise more than likely needs replacing.
I have a 1988 Samurai convertible. The top just has a series of snaps that must be unsnapped. There are two snaps at the upper corners of the windshield, and several snaps along the bottom sides and back of the convertible top. There are also two or three snaps along the top of the bow which is above the zippered window in the back of the vehicle. There are also two straps that hold the bow in place. My straps have Velcro so you just undo them. Finally, there is a bead on the top which fits into a vertical groove on the B pillar (the column behind each door). This bead is extracted from the groove by lifting the top vertically on both sides of the vehicle. It sounds more confusing than it is. Just start unsnapping and look for additional attachment points.
It is most likely the switch on the transmission. There are two of them, one is for the back up lights. They both screw into the left side of trans toward the top. The wires from both switches come up to the firewall and plug into the wiring harness connectors. Once the switch is out there is a nylon pin on the bottom that contacts the shifter rail, it wears and will not go in far enough to make up the circuit
I used to own a number of Samurai's, and had the mechanical fuel pumps go bad a couple times. But not the way you'd expect: It would still pump fuel, but I'd have engine oil leak out of the tube that came out of the pump and run down the back side of the engine and over the bell housing. It seemed to be the diaphragm would spring a leak, at least that's what I think it was. And since the mechanical fuel pump was bolted to the passenger side of the head near the back of the engine is powered by a rod that gets driven off the camshaft, if there is an internal fault in the pump you can end up running low on oil! I think it is just something that happens..no big deal, not hard to replace. Good luck!
So the 2800 was really overloaded...it had 31 inch tires & spare, which are all heavy...a winch, body lift, spare lots-of-stuff.
All in all I really miss it as it was the best little off roader I ever came across. Would go places nothing else could touch. But the darn engines had trouble passing smog as the carbs were junk, would tend to run rich and ruin catalytic converters. Hope this helps.
A stock Suzuki Samurai weighs 2,100 Lbs, empty, and has a maximum vehicle weight of 2,932 lbs when fully loaded.
The first thing is to put the crankshaft (the bottom pulley) and the camshaft (the top pulley) in ABOUT the right position. What you are striving for is to get the engine so it is at TDC (Top Dead Center) on the #1 (front of the engine) piston.
1. Crankshaft #1 cylinder TDC: Pull the spark plug closest to the front of the engine. (Turning the engine manually will be easier if you also back off the other spark plugs, but it isn't absolutely necessary...and if you DO want to remove all 4 be sure to mark the wires so you know which to put back where afterwards.) Put a socket on the nut of the crankshaft pulley, and rotate it clockwise as viewed from the front of the engine, while shining a strong flashlight into the spark plug hole. You should be able to see the top of the piston as it moves up in the cylinder. The goal is to position the piston so it is at the absolute highest point. The piston will rise quickly then slow down as it reaches the top, and then will slowly start to descend again. Move your crankcase wrench back and forth so the piston is in the middle of what seems to be the highest point. ALTERNATE to flashlight if you can't see it: Put a thin bladed screwdriver in the spark plug hole while you GENTLY move the crankcase. The piston will push the screwdriver up as it rises in the bore so again you can find the highest point. BE CAREFUL, you don't want to gouge the top of the piston or wedge the screwdriver...but this really isn't difficult...and I would generally use the screwdriver method myself. OK one way or another the piston should now at the top of its travel, and the crankcase pulley will be within a few degrees of where you want...more to follow on this later.
2. Camshaft #1 cylinder positioning: When the crankshaft is at TDC on it's firing cycle, the two valves on the #1 cylinder will both be closed, and the distributer rotor will be pointing (about) to the #1 spark plug wire. To check all this, remove the valve cover (4 bolts) if you haven't already done so. The hose from the air filter will just pull off. Loosen the 4 bolts that stick up through the sheetmetal valve cover, and pull off the cover. It may stick a bit..tap gently with a mallet to loosen it. You may have a little trouble working the cover past the protrusions and off the engine, but wiggle it around a bit and you can do so. (Note for reassembly: Make sure the gasket is in place and not wrinkled or torn when reassembling.) Take a look at your distributor...one of the posts has the wire on it that goes to the front (#1 cylinder) sparkplug. There may be a #1 embossed in the cap, maybe not. In any case loosen the two spring clips that hold the distributor cap in place and pull the cap off. You will see the rotor, and one end of it has a brass or copper piece that you want to be pointing right to where the #1 spark plug wire gets attached. To get to this point, rotate the camshaft (top pulley) clockwise (as viewed from the front of the engine) while watching the rotor go around. Also watch the two front valves (one on the driver side, (the exhaust), and one on the passenger side (the intake). You want NEITHER of them to be pressed down by the camshaft lobes. Go ahead and rotate the camshaft a few times while watching the motions of the rocker arms over the valves and the distributor rotor. You will get a sense of how things go up and down and around...and when BOTH valve rockers are in the up position for the front cylinder, and the rotor is pointing to the #1 spark plug wire connector, you are within a few degrees of where you want the camshaft. (To check valves, try to push down on the rocker arms with your fingers...if in the right place both the front rockers will feel "loose" and you will be able to move them slightly. If one or the other is tight, then you probably aren't lined up right. Alternatively try to put a thin feeler gauge in between the rocker arm and the valve stem (the post coming up through the cylinder head). You should be able to insert a thin feeler gauge on both the intake and exhaust sides.
3. "Fine-tuning" adjustment of the camshaft (top pulley): There is a notch or groove on the camshaft gear. Here is where memory fails me...I don't remember if the groove will be right at the top and will line up with a groove at the top of the metal plate behind the gear, or if the groove should be right at the bottom lining up with a mark. I THINK the groove should be at the top...but if you followed the directions in step #2 it will be right where it lines up, or maybe just a little bit to the right or left. Align it exactly! Don't worry if it moves the distributor rotor a little bit away from the #1 spark plug connection...the whole point of step #2 was to get you "close" to where you needed to be, the notches are the real alignment.
4. "Fine-tuning" the crankshaft: Again I don't remember offhand the exact alignment. I THINK it will be a groove or notch on the crankshaft pulley (the bottom pulley) with a mark or post on the metal plate behind the gears. I am sure the mark or groove will in this point be 'up'. This should be simple to see what is what, but if it doesn't seem to be like I said then go out and buy the Haynes manual for exact instructions. Again, don't worry if you need to shift the crankcase pulley a few degrees one way or another, the important thing is to get it lined up with the notch or mark...step #1 was just to get you 'close'.
5. Installing the timing belt: 1st off, are you putting on a NEW timing belt? If not, go jail without passing Home, as a new timing belt should cost less than $20, and the labor to change it is so extensive that every time you take it off you should put a new one on. Going to use an old one anyway? Make sure you put it on so it goes in the same direction as it originally did. But whoever took it off didn't even mark or line things up, so you don't know which way this old belt turned anyway. So use a new one. And if you are a hard core 4wheeler like I used to be, use a white-out pen and draw an arrow on the new one once it's installed, pointing in the direction it turns. That way if you ever have an emergency field repair and have to reuse an old belt, there will be arrows on it showing the right way to put it back on.
6. Loosen and backoff the adjustment pulley. This is a small idler pulley located between the camshaft and crankshaft. There are a couple of nuts or bolts involved. One is on the pulley itself that locks it into position. Loosen that one. Then there is another nearby, that holds the adjustment slide and spring. Loosen that one two...move the idler pulley as far to the left (as viewing from the front) and temporarily lock it into place by tightening the adjustment bolt. Again memory fails so I may not be describing this exactly right, but the goal is to move the idler pulley as far to the left as possible, so it won't be in the way when putting on the new belt.
7. OK time to put on the belt. It's toothed, and the important thing is to have NO slack on the right side (as viewed from the front). The crankshaft will PULL down on the right side of the belt and make the camshaft move. If you have any slack on the right side your timing will not be right. I would start putting the belt on the camshaft gear, and then push it onto the crankshaft. Once you get it started it shouldn't be too tough to slide it all the way onto the pulleys. If it's right your alignments on both camshaft and crankshaft will be good, and there will be no slack on the right side. If the notches don't line up right take the belt off, reposition the pulleys where they should be, and try again.
8. OK, now you think you have it right. Loosent the idler gear so the spring pushes it against the left side of the belt. Put your wrench on the crankshaft and gently slowly rotate the crankshaft clockwise at least two full rotations. Stop after two rotations of the crankshaft and see if all the marks are lined up again. (Note that the two pulleys rotate at different speeds, so sometimes both marks line up, sometimes they are 180 degrees out of phase.) Look good? OK, time to tighten the bolt in the center of the idler gear to hold it in place. Gently tighten the other idler gear bolt too, the one that held it away when you were putting on the belt. Note these are small bolts: Do not use very much force on them or you will snap one or the other off!
9. Well, it should now be right. But to check things out, turn the crankshaft around another 2 or 4 times. Watch the piston, watch the distributor rotor. When you stop your piston should be ABOUT at top dead center. Your distributor rotor should be ABOUT spark plug wire #1. And the crankshaft and camshaft markings should be dead on lined up as detailed in earlier steps. Still good? OK to do the rest of the reassembly.
I'd like to hear if these instructions helped or not. You can drop me an email at firstname.lastname@example.org Good luck. I used to hardcore run Samurai's, and at one point owned 4 of them. I had trouble keeping them smog legal and then changed jobs so no longer get enough vacation to off-road, so I sold them. But I had over 250,000 on mine, and my kid had over 180,000 on his, by the time we got rid of them.
Here's a slightly different way to do it
That answer was pretty much the same way the haynes manual says to do it. But I've recently found another way which i feel is easier and more precise.
Now, I'm assuming that the fan shroud, clutch and pulley, and the timing belt cover have already been removed. If you can't get that far, you might want to consider going to a mechanic.
Since this question about a timing belt being removed without alignment, we'll skip to the next step after belt removal. To start, make sure the tensioner bolt and tensioner stud are no more than hand tight. In order to get proper belt tension, the cam pulley must be able to move freely. To do this you need to remove the valve cover and back out (not remove) the valve adjustment screws enough so they don't touch the cam lobes. Turn the cam pulley clockwise and align the timing mark with the "V" mark on the belt inside cover.
Turn the crankshaft timing belt pulley clockwise until the punch mark aligns with the arrow on the oil pump. With the cam and crank TB pulleys aligned with their respective marks, the crankshaft is in TDC on the #4 piston. Install the timing belt so there's no slack on the drive side (side opposite the tensioner). To remove any remaining slack, turn the crankshaft all the way around twice. Once slack is removed, tighten the tensioner stud first (7-8.5 lbs-ft) and then the tensioner bolt (17.5-21.5 lbs-ft), then confirm that the pulley marks are still aligned. Reinstall timing belt outside cover, crankshaft pulley, fan pulley, clutch, shroud and alternator belt.
Now it's time to adjust the valves and ignition timing. On the drivers side of the transmission bellhousing is a rubber plug. This is the timing check window. Visible through this hole you'll be able to see a "T" with a line underneath it on the flywheel. Turn the crankshaft clockwise until the line is even with the bottom of the notch in the check window. The engine is now TDC on #1 piston.
If distributor was not removed from housing, make a mark on the housing just below the #1 plug in the cap. Remove the cap and check that the rotor is in the #1 position. If the rotor is 180 degrees out, then rotate the crankshaft clockwise one full turn and align the mark in the check window again.
Now you can adjust the valves to the cold setting. In this position you can get piston 1 & 2 intake and 1 and 3 exhaust. Intake setting is .005-.007 in. and exhaust is .006-.008 in. Rotate crankshaft one full turn and do piston 3 & 4 intake and 2 & 4 exhaust.
Replace the valve cover and bring the engine up to normal operating temp. Turn the car off and remove the valve cover (again) and check the valve lash (use the check window to find TDC again). Hot intake setting is .009-.011in and exhaust is .010-.012in. Reinstall the valve cover for the last time and don't forget to put the timing check window plug back in. Throw a timing light on that puppy and go have some fun.
Hope this helped someone,
First drain coolant, disconnect both radiator hoses, than unbolt radiator and remove, remove engine fan, loosen altenator belt, remove water pump pully, remove main crank pully, unbolt timing belt cover, loosen and remove timing belt, water pump should be in full view now, remove fan and water pump pully studs (to place into new water pump) remove all water pump bolts (be sure to lay them out in order they came out some are longer than others) remove pump from block, (some coolant may come out dont worry its not alot just enough to get yer hands wet) then wipe dry and scrap off old gasket, (be careful block is aluminum it chips easely scrap gently) install new gasket and installation is reverse from removeal instructions :) you have yerself a good day:)
if you mean a white coil that is on the (+) coil from battery (soory if i make mistakes my English are not so good)
i have replace it (it works as fuse and cut when the (+) cable from alternator meet the chassis)
with a 80Amps fuse
I'd use 10w-30 year round most of the time, sometimes 10w-40 in the summer (100+ not unusual where I live) months.
Tried either 5w20 or 5w30 on one of my Samurai's one winter (winter temps around freezing but I'd also go winter camping down to around 0F)...bad idea, I got to replace the rod and main bearings shortly thereafter. I put 250K miles on mine, my kid got 180K out of his...so we got real good at pulling engines and transmissions, doing backyard rebuilds, etc.
If you are in a really hot area of the country, you might want to bump it up to 10w-40 in the summer months, otherwise any relatively name brand 10w-30 should be fine. Do NOT drop down to 5w-20! (Yes, this is the voice of experience talking!)
1,300 +/- 100 RPM. I got this info from my Clymer book.
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