# Make sure headlamp is off and open hood.

# Facing the driver's side headlamp, and looking at the headlamp itself, at clock positions 8, 11 and 1 are the headlight housing screws. They all look the same. Using a 10mm socket wrench, remove these 3 screws and set them aside.

# Just to the right of the "11 o'clock" housing screw is a clinch bolt (same hexagonal 10mm sized top as the housing screws). This just needs a few turns to loosen it. As soon as you loosen that up the whole assembly comes right out.

# Gently pull the whole headlight forward. Now you can get at the bulb.

# Disconnect the electrical connector from the bulb. Now the headlamp is free to work with.

# Remove the bulb from the lamp assembly by pulling straight back.

Do not twist, as there are alignment slots built into the lamp assembly socket. It may take some effort to remove the lamp because it has a rubber o-ring type seal - try a bit of wiggling side-to-side while pulling

# Insert new bulb into headlight assembly - don't touch the glass - use gloves, paper towel, or similar

Make sure that the flat surface of the bulb socket is facing upward, and is firmly seated

# Re-attach retainer ring by rotating clockwise

# Reconnect the electrical harness

# Place headlamp back into position. Line up screw holes. Tighten the clinch bolt. Replace housing screws and tighten.

Passenger side headlamp is mirror image of driver's side. Screws at 11, 1 and 4 o'clock positions. Bolt should be to the left of the "1 o'clock" housing screw.

* Do not touch the glass of the new halogen bulb - the oils in the skin will shorten the life-span of the new bulb, or possibly cause the bulb to explode when first turned on

If the bulb is accidentally touched, it should be cleaned with rubbing alcohol before being used

Bulb Numbers:

* FRONT Turn-signal - 3457 AK (amber) * Headlamp - 9007 QL (9007LL optional) * Tail lamp/brake/turn lamp 3157 * Tail lamp/brake lamp (wagon) 3157 * Rear turn lamp (wagon) 3456K * Backup lamp 921 * Backup lamp (wagon) 3156 * License plate lamp (2) 168 * High-mount brake lamp (2) 912 * Rear side marker lamp (wagon) (2) 168 The above information extracted from the Owners Manuals (see below) == == == ==





1. Make sure headlamp is off and open hood. 2. Taurus model years 1990-1999: you must remove the whole headlamp to replace the bulb. Not a horrible task. Just annoying. 3. Facing the driver's side headlamp, and looking at the headlamp itself, at clock positions 8, 11 and 1 are the headlight housing screws. They all look the same. Using a 10mm socket wrench, remove these 3 screws and set them aside. 4. Just to the right of the "11 o'clock" housing screw is a bolt (same hexagonal 10mm sized top as the housing screws). This just needs a few turns to loosen it. 5. Gently pull the whole headlight forward. Now you can get at the bulb. 6. Disconnect the electrical connector from the bulb. Now the headlamp is free to work with. Remove the bulb, replace with a new bulb, make sure the bulb housing cylinder is in place and reconnect the electical. 7. Place headlamp back into position. Line up screw holes. Tighten the bolt. Replace housing screws and tighten. 8. Passenger side headlamp is mirror image of driver's side. Screws at 11, 1 and 4 o'clock positions. Bolt should be to the left of the "1 o'clock" housing screw.

The best description of this procedure, including photos, I have found is at kwmuth.com. Just follow the first 14 steps and then reverse them to install your new mirror assembly.

See "Related Questions" below for direct link to the pdf file

ok, it is very simple. all you have to do is take off the door panel, and if you have the tweeter in the corner of the door, you are going to have to take the screen off and undo the bolts, then there are 3 bolts that hold the mirror on..... i would recommend to take a digital camera with you so you can take pictures of everything and that way you will be able to put everything back in place..

autozone.com has online manuals that give step by step how to

1. Remove triangle-shaped plastic cover Fwd of door window - gently pry it off
2. Remove screw from the plastic cover behind door open lever
3. Remove door lock plunger. (unscrew)
4. Remove screws down inside the door pull hand-hold area
5. Look for other Phillips screws - sometimes around the lower 1/2
6. Pry hidden plastic hold down fasteners from around the edge - pull the panel away from the door and where you see it 'stuck' to the door, slide a pry tool, a stiff putty knife works well, up in that area and pop the fastener off.
7. Lift door liner enough to get to the mirror power connector and unplug.
8. For some model years, with door panel loose, you can access the bolts / screws that hold the interior trim piece in place and remove.
9. Remove Mylar cover for access to 3 Mirror mount studs, speaker screws, door lock actuators, window motors, etc.
10. Remove nuts, (hold the mirror up from outside) and remove mirror. (Feed electrical harness through door openings as required to facilitate removal.
11. Reverse order for installation.

To take of the inside panel just remove the screws under the panel, on the left side, and one (that is hard to get to) on the inside. I don't know how to get to the mirror tho. If you know how to get that far can you email me at Chriscox06@yahoo.com I need to replace my whole mirror setup. I and if you already knew this, sorry i couldn't help.

In general, the primary mounting screws for the side mirror are under the triangle cover piece - often that is held in place with a single screw itself.

I have found the electric connector to be fairly short, so it may be possible to replace the mirror without removing the door panel.

Remove the speaker cover by carefully prying it off. From the inside of the car, remove the three nuts that attach the mirror bolts. Remove mirror. Re-install the same way.

go to a pic ur part junk yard and find a new one pull the wires out through the door panel its easy

The firing order for a Dodge 318cid/5.2L is 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2 clockwise rotation.

Cylinders are numbered like this.

Pass side 2-4-6-8 front to rear.

Driver side 1-3-5-7 front to rear.

The firing order is probably forged into the intake manifold. Number one tower on the distributor cap is the one facing the number one plug or the driver-side headlight.

Distributor rotor at Number 1 plug terminal points to front intake bolt on left side of engine.

• Change Transmission filter-30,000 miles, 90,000 and 150,000 miles and fluid at 60,000, 120,000 and 180,000 miles.
• Change oil every 3,000 miles or 3 months, unless you use Mobil One, in which case 6 months/6,000 miles.
• Chassis lube every 3,000 miles, assuming there are fittings.
• Spark plugs: Conventional plugs: 30,000 miles, Double platinum: every 50,000 miles (100,000 mile plugs are best to be changed well before that, although some can reach it).
• Fuel filter: 35,000-40,000 miles. Unless it is in the tank. But if the tank is ever dropped, do it then
• Ignition cap, rotor, wires: 60,000-80,000 miles. (if it has them).
• Timing Belt, if applicible: 60,000 miles on many but check with gates or dayco or the manual or dealer, as many different intervals are now present.
• Coolant flush -- green: 2 years/24,000 miles.
• Coolant flush -- dex-cool or long life: 5 years/50,000 miles.
• Tire rotation: 5,000-8,000 miles.
• Alignment: 15,000-20,000 miles., unless tire wear is not a problem and car goes straight.
• Brake fluid flush and power steering fluid flush: 2 years or when dirty or discolored.
• Air filter, pcv valve and cabin air filter: as needed.
• Professional fuel injection service: 40,000 miles.
• Throttle bore plate cleaning: 20,000 miles.
• Air induction service: 20,000 miles.

There might be small difference in details but here is how to remove the door panel on Windstar 1999. These instructions apply for the drivers door particularly:

Remove three screws that hold the panel. Two at the bottom and one in the right corner. This one has a triangle plastic cover that comes off easily by just pulling it out.

Remove also two screws that are in deep holes under the plastic handle.

Remove the plastic cover that is around/behind the manual latch that opens the door from inside.

Pop up the switches/buttons holder for power windows and lock/unlock then disconnect all the connectors.

Use a pry tool or a flat screw driver to separate the panel from the door on the lower side.

Hold the panel firmly and lift it up until releases from the door.

The foam gasket under the panel may stay stuck on the door but you can remove it easily.

When replacing the panel back don't forget to place the stub (stick) for manual locking the door from inside first before you put the panel back and slide it down.

Once you understand the process it's very easy to do it.

2. Pop out the component around the door handle (this comes straight out, you may have to pull the door handle into the "open door" position to remove the component).

The next step is to remove the power window/auto door lock control panel: Be CAREFUL on this. The front part pops straight up, however the rear does NOT come straight up. Once you lift the front up you must slide the unit forward while lifting the front up ( there are two plastic extensions that are curved, these two projections hold the rear of the panel down).

you will find a Phillips screw exposed once you remove the control panel. Remove screw.

You must also remove the screw that is located at the bottom of the door panel. Rear of door panel (to your right on the passenger side)

The panel is now held on by only PLASTIC hook-like projections from the door panel into holes in the door frame. if you break these you will be cursing at yourself.

the panel must be lifted straight up (about an inch)to unhook the plastic hooks. Once you lifted the panel straight up you should be able to completely remove it. Be Aware of the electrical wires leading to the window/lock panel. Good luck!!

It's only a $11 part at the dealer though.

BTW, you gotta drill out the rivets that hold in the guide. You can use bolts & nuts to replace it (Pan heads work best)

Take out the screws in the bottom of the panel. Takes out the screw in the handle pull - then take out the plastic insert around the handle area. Then pull the plastic behind the mirror. After that pull up on the whole panel and it will come off. One of the easiest that I have done.

1. remove the retainer screw from the door handle cover and remove.

2. remove the screw from the bottom left corner of the door panel.

3. pull the door panel away from the door, starting at the bottom. Lift up and off the door.

Once the panel is off, it is easy to replace bad speakers or inspect / repair door lock linkage.

• First gently pry against the small triangle shape panel at the fwd corner of the door to remove
• Remove the small cover with the mirror control, straight up.
• Push the window/lock switch panel forward 1/2" and lift it out.
• Then you gain access to a Phillips head screw, remove that.
• Another small Phillips screw needs to come out at the rear lower corner of the door panel
• Then LIFT only at first, then out a little to free the door panel.

Be advised that I own and service a 2000 Taurus 3.0L OHV engine. The low side valve is located at the rear firewall near the right side \ passenger side strut tower and has a black plastic cap similar to a tire valve stem cap. Stay away from the high pressure side which on my vehicle is at the front right near the radiator. Not certain but believe R-12 Freon was being phased out about 1992 and the new refrigerant is R134a. You need of course to know what your AC system requires, R-12, or R134a. Then appropriate charging kit to add refrigerant.

Its located on the evaporator to accumulator suction line under the cowl panel...............
Buy a kit at Wal-Mart or auto parts comes with instructions
on the pasinger side there should be a silver looking tank on top there is a cap that is black pull off there is a thing that looks like a air valve on a tire get the recharge bottle from auto zone and put it on there
Follow the larger hose from the compressor - perhaps near the drier on the passenger side firewall
The low pressure port on a Ford Taurus is located next to the firewall. If you are looking from the front of the car, the port is on the far left side of the engine compartment.
The fill orfice is located near the aluminum "cylinder" near the firewall on the passenger side of the car, it is beneath the plastic shround near the firewall. This is the low pressure side of the system. Do not try and fill through the the high press. side located near the radiator! Wear safety googles!
on the passenger side firewall behind plastic sheild.
There is a big hose and a small hose at the compressor. The big hose is the low pressure.
Where is the low pressure side of the ac system on a 1999 ford taurus?" low pressure side is located near the fire wall on the left side.
Not hard at all, just buy the recharge kit at the auto parts store and follow the directions. The kit will only attach to the low side so you cannot make that mistake. The low pressure port will be near the compressor on a larger hose and will have a screw on cap with the letter L on it.
passenger side near the fire wall. the only one the freon hose fits.
It contains no Freon. It contains R-134. If it is low, you have a leak, that must be repaired before adding refrigrant. Take it to a professional.
There is a valve that looks like a tire air port that is located under the hood directly in front of the passenger seat. It is located on the right of the air compressor, in front of the fire wall. There should be a screw cap on top of the port. Crank your AC to the highest it will go, flip the cap on your refill, attach it to the port, shake can, and press.

For model years 1999-2003, and most likely the entire Freestar / Monterey line too: The entire headlamp actually sits inside of a mounting bracket - this means it is very easy to fully release, and remove the headlamp to make bulb replacement much less *painful*! There are 2 headlight retainer clips to find - they are: 1) black, upside-down L-shaped metal clips about 1/2 inch wide 2) located just behind the top edge of the headlamp glass, inside the engine compartment. Release and pull the clips upward. The headlamp assembly will now pull forward providing great access to the electrical connector and bulb retainer ring. Picking up the *removal* instructions from the manual: * 3. Pull headlamp assembly forward disengaging the lamp from the rear retainer to expose the back of the bulb.

* 4. Disconnect the electrical connector from the bulb by pulling rearward.

* 5. Remove the bulb retaining ring by rotating it counterclockwise (when viewed from the rear) to free it from the bulb socket, and slide the ring off the plastic base. Keep the ring to retain the new bulb.

* 6. Without turning, remove the old bulb from its socket by gently pulling it straight back out of the lamp assembly. (You may have to wiggle it side-to-side a little while pulling rearward.) Installing the new bulb: NOTE: DO NOT TOUCH THE GLASS OF THE NEW BULB! The oil from your hand could cause the bulb to break the next time the headlamps are operated. # With the flat side of the new bulb's plastic base facing upward, insert the glass end of the bulb into the lamp assembly. Turn (rotate) the bulb left or right to align the grooves in the plastic base with the tabs in the lamp assembly. When the grooves are aligned, push the bulb into the lamp assembly until the plastic base contacts the rear of the lamp assembly.

# Install the bulb retain ring over the plastic base until contacts the rear of the socket by rotating clockwise until you feel a "stop."

# Connect the electrical connector into the rear of the plastic base unti it snaps, locking it into position.

# Install the headlamp on the vehicle by aligning the lamp with the rear retainer, push rearward and secure with two retainer pins.

# Turn the headlamps on and make sure they work properly. If the headlamp was correctly aligned before you changed the bulb, you should NOT need to align it again. With the cable unplugged, look at the back of the bulb assembly. You will see a small ring with three raised "ears". Rotate this counterclockwise about 120 degrees, and the 3 small square tabs under the ring can slip through the ring itself. Remove the ring. The bulb assembly is now exposed. Pull it straight back (away from you) to remove it. It has a rubber ring on the new bulb to seal the entire assembly from water. Do NOT remove the large rubber ring that goes around the retainer ring that you removed in the previous step. With the old bulb assembly removed, open the package for the new bulb. CAUTION: Do NOT touch the bulb itself. Fingertip oil, even very slight, can cause the bulb to fail very quickly. Holding the new bulb by the base, you will see 3 small detents (two of them rather close together, and the other on the opposite side of the base). Line these up with the corresponding marks on the headlight bezel assembly, and then push the bulb assembly gently into place. Once inserted, take the ring from the step above, slide it over the back of the bulb assembly and ensuring that the 3 square black tabs go through the square holes in the ring. Then, twist the ring clockwise about 120 degrees, using the "ears", until the ring is fully engaged. Check that you the square tabs are on the outside of the ring (it's easy to miss one, so that only two of the tabs are engaged - this can result in the bulb being loose). Just changed one on mine. Its easy. Under the hood there is a locking ring of sorts holding the lamp in place. Just grab two of the three knobs on this ring and give it a quarter turn. The locking ring pops off and the lamp assembly can be removed. Lift the plastic tab on the lamp holder and pull off the lamp socket. Reinstall in oposite order. Be sure not to touch the glass portion of the new lamp with your fingers -- wear gloves. The oil from your skin will shorten the lamp life if you do. It is possible to release the headlamp so it pulls out, making access to the connector (described above) much easier: NOTE: This procedure is detailed & illustrated in the Owner's Manual that came with the car, approximately page 246. The entire headlamp acutally sits inside of a mounting bracket - this means it is very easy to fully release, and remove the headlamp to make bulb replacement much less *painful*! There are 2 headlight retainer clips to find - they are: 1) black, upside-down L-shaped metal clips about 1/2 inch wide 2) located just behind the top edge of the headlamp glass, inside the engine compartment. Release and pull the clips upward. The headlamp assembly will now pull forward providing great access to the electrical connector and bulb retainer ring.
The following applies to 1999 - 2003 Windstars. Chances are these steps also apply to the Freestar and Mercury Monterey.

The entire headlamp housing assembly sits inside of a mounting bracket - this means it is very easy to fully release, and remove the headlamp to make bulb replacement much less *painful*!

There are 2 headlight retainer clips to find - they are:

1. black, upside-down L-shaped metal clips about 1/2 inch wide
2. located just behind the top edge of the headlamp glass, inside the engine compartment.

Release by pulling the top towards you while pulling the clips upward. The headlamp assembly will now pull forward providing great access to the electrical connector and bulb retainer ring.

Once you've pulled the entire headlight assembly outwards toward yourself, there is a small clip molded into the plug that has to clear the corresponding tab on the bulb assembly itself. You can pull it up SLIGHTLY while you pull the connector straight back (away from you) to remove the cable. Do not break the plastic clip - you only need to raise it about 1/16th inch to clear the tab.

With the cable unplugged, look at the back of the bulb assembly. You will see a small ring with three raised "ears". Rotate this counterclockwise about 120 degrees, and the 3 small square tabs under the ring can slip through the ring itself. Remove the ring.

The bulb assembly is now exposed. Pull it straight back (away from you) to remove it. It has a rubber ring on the new bulb to seal the entire assembly from water. Do NOT remove the large rubber ring that goes around the retainer ring that you removed in the previous step.

With the old bulb assembly removed, open the package for the new bulb. CAUTION: Do NOT touch the bulb itself. Fingertip oil, even very slight, can cause the bulb to fail very quickly. Holding the new bulb by the base, you will see 3 small detents (two of them rather close together, and the other on the opposite side of the base). Line these up with the corresponding marks on the headlight bezel assembly, and then push the bulb assembly gently into place. Once inserted, take the ring from the step above, slide it over the back of the bulb assembly and ensuring that the 3 square black tabs go through the square holes in the ring. Then, twist the ring clockwise about 120 degrees, using the "ears", until the ring is fully engaged. Check that you the square tabs are on the outside of the ring (it's easy to miss one, so that only two of the tabs are engaged - this can result in the bulb being loose).

Once locked in place with the ring, reattach the cable (the "D" shape of the plug matches the back of the bulb assembly), and press it into place until the small plastic clip goes up and over the tab on the bulb base, locking the cable in place.

Push the headlight bezel assembly back into place, push the "L" shaped metal tabs back into place (straight down, until they click), and test the light.

NOTE: This procedure is detailed & illustrated in the Owner's Manual that came with the car, approximately page 246.

Once you've pulled the entire headlight assembly outwards toward yourself, there is a small clip molded into the plug that has to clear the corresponding tab on the bulb assembly itself. You can pull it up SLIGHTLY while you pull the connector straight back (away from you) to remove the cable. Do not break the plastic clip - you only need to raise it about 1/16th inch to clear the tab. With the cable unplugged, look at the back of the bulb assembly. You will see a small ring with three raised "ears". Rotate this counterclockwise about 120 degrees, and the 3 small square tabs under the ring can slip through the ring itself. Remove the ring. The bulb assembly is now exposed. Pull it straight back (away from you) to remove it. It has a rubber ring on the new bulb to seal the entire assembly from water. Do NOT remove the large rubber ring that goes around the retainer ring that you removed in the previous step. With the old bulb assembly removed, open the package for the new bulb. CAUTION: Do NOT touch the bulb itself. Fingertip oil, even very slight, can cause the bulb to fail very quickly. Holding the new bulb by the base, you will see 3 small detents (two of them rather close together, and the other on the opposite side of the base). Line these up with the corresponding marks on the headlight bezel assembly, and then push the bulb assembly gently into place. Once inserted, take the ring from the step above, slide it over the back of the bulb assembly and ensuring that the 3 square black tabs go through the square holes in the ring. Then, twist the ring clockwise about 120 degrees, using the "ears", until the ring is fully engaged. Check that you the square tabs are on the outside of the ring (it's easy to miss one, so that only two of the tabs are engaged - this can result in the bulb being loose). Once locked in place with the ring, reattach the cable (the "D" shape of the plug matches the back of the bulb assembly), and press it into place until the small plastic clip goes up and over the tab on the bulb base, locking the cable in place. Push the headlight bezel assembly back into place, push the "L" shaped metal tabs back into place (straight down, until they click), and test the light. NOTE: This procedure is detailed & illustrated in the Owner's Manual that came with the car, approximately page 246.

High Fuel Consumption

Note: Mass air flow sensors can be cleaned to restore performance in most cases without having to replace them. The hot wire variety can be cleaned with isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol, electrical contact cleaner, or aerosol cleaners specifically designed for Mass Airflow Sensors . NEVER use carburetor or throttle body cleaner as these are too harsh for the delicate platinum wires. There are many cleaning methods that can be found by an internet search. In rare cases, your car may have a Karman-Vortex type air sensor and these cannot be easily cleaned and are more often found on cars that are either turbocharged or supercharged. When your mass air flow sensor goes bad, it cannot react properly to changes in the air entering your engine, so it will provide either too little or too much gas for your airflow, causing issues such as hard starts, rough idle, sluggish throttle response, and pinging.

== == == == There are 2 fuse boxes / fuse panels in nearly every Ford product: one directly above the driver's left foot (when the driver is actually sitting in the driver's seat). The other is inside the engine compartment, on the right side - contains high current fuses.

The Owners Manuals have detailed illustrations and information regarding the two fuse box / panels, and the various vehicle systems each fuse connects to. Keep reading for information & links to free online sources of Owners Manuals for 1996+ Ford & Mercury products information.

Most fuse boxes and power distribution boxes have a cover or access plate over them. Usually, on the inside of this cover or plate is a pictorial diagram of the layout of all the fuse locations in that particular box. Each fuse or circuit breaker position will be labeled on that diagram. Sometimes the actual base plastic of the box has the description printed by each fuse in it. (These can be very hard to read). Good luck! The fuse diagram is in the owners' manual. However, it is incomplete and ambiguous. Using terms like GEM and ICP. Nowhere, by the way, does it explain where the fuse for the parking and running lights is located. Also, a lot of the chassis electrical run through the "GEM", the Generic Electronic Module. This is the "black box" that only the dealer can diagnose! I have had all of the running lights and parking lights go out on my 2001 Sable, and have found NOTHING on the web that can help me. Looks like we are destined to take the car to the dealer where they will use their magic boxes to diagnose the problem. == == == == = = Ford makes all the Owners Manuals for their entire lineup, 1996 and newer, available online: www.fleet.ford.com/maintenance/owners_manuals/default.asp

Another source is the Motorcraft website. See "Related Links" below

Edmunds.com has links to online Owners Manuals for other manufacturers.

See "Related Links" below

Autozone also has online diagrams of the fuse box / panels. See "Related Links" below http://www.taurusclub.com/encyclopedia/Reference95Fuse.jpg This is an accurate fuse diagram based on the factory number location.

I believe it is on the top of the passenger side valve cover.I had a 1991 240SX and I believe that is where it is located.If not then check the drivers side valve cover.It would most likely be silver at the bottom and black plastic at the top with a hose going to it. ..