Alternator is accessible from under the vehicle, a/c compressor needs to be loosened to get to it.
it ain't as pretty as the rest of the car! i havea 95 and a 90 they both suck up the high test. if you're getting 15 on an everyday basis you're doing good. (i drive hard, and use ac if i need to.) spend 131 dollars at th dealer. have them perform a service where they burn the carbon off the pistons. you will be impressed, and maybe get a bit better gas milage.
yes they will i have 20's on mine
Well there should not be a sleve in the crank snout where the seal lip rides. If there is one, then the crank has been reconnditioned/replaced, or there was damage to the snout, previously. I will recommend leaving the sleave, or replacing it with a new one if it has obtained rotational damage from the seal lip. This happens usually due to oil starvation at the lip ridding area or from a hardenned seal. The sleves may be purchased at your local autoparts and only serve to go over the damaged grove that the seal duged in. If the seal was not leaking and one is replacing the seal as maintenance or timing chain r&r. then leave the sleave in place other that that remove damaged sleve and replace with new one..Hope this helps.. Will..:)
no it will fit up to 18" rims without rubbing but you have to wrap it in low pros or it will be a really tight fit I had a 93 with 20"s on it. get low profile tires and u also can get the lips on the car cut out. Answer I have a 93 Q-45 with 22's... with 245/35's..So 20"s will fit no problem..12522876262.. Anythings possible
open the hood its located right next to the battery its a black casing
What you have to do is strap a rocket to your back and lean forward. BUT MAKE SURE YOU DONT TURN THE ENGINE ON!!!
You may never need to on this car. Timing chains are far more durable than the belts on other cars.
Check out this web site www.cflwindowregulators.comthey can help you.
This information is listed in your owner's manual. The filters (2) are located directly behind the glovebox on my 1998 Q45. Yes that means the glovebox needs to be removed along with some of the glovebox framework. Usually when you order Q45 filters there will be two to a box, so double check before placing an order for a quantity of 2.
If you are referring to the 3rd brake lamp assembly, all you have to do is pull the left side of the plastic mount toward you if you are sitting in the back seat. the assembly pops right out and the bulb can be replaced.
You didn't give the year so I am assumming you have an older Q45. My answer relates to 1994, 1995, 1996, 1997 models. Well, its really quite simple. There's a black plastic cover over the headlights that are called air guides. The air guides have to be removed so that you can get to the rear of the headlights. You do not have to remove the entire headlight assembly just to change the bulds, but for the low beam bulb, it would possibly be a bit easier because of the wire retaining clip that holds the bulb in place. Each headlight assembly contains two bulbs, one for high beam and one for low beam. Once you've removed the air guides and facing the headlight. The Hi- beam bulb , you just grab it and give it about a quarter turn counterclockwise to unlatch it and pull it out of the assembly. Now you have to disconnect it from the wiring connector. Just press down on the release lever that you will see and pull them apart. If they are difficult to separate, just use a flat tip screwdriver between the two and twist the blade against the connector to wedge it back and off. Low beam bulb. In the very center of the bulb assembly will be the round shaped wiring plug. It should be encased in a rubber covering or seal. Just grab it and pull it out. Next unscrew with your hand and remove the black plastic retaining ring around the bulb hole. Removal of this plastic piece will reveal another rubber seal covering the bulb hole. From the edges, peel the rubber seal back enough so that you can see inside the mounting hole. Now you should be able to see the wire retaining spring that I mentioned earlier. Use a pair of long needle nose pliers or a screwdriver to detach the spring from its locking points on both sides. You can detach one side of the spring at a time to make it easier. Once the retaining spring is detached, the bulb pulls right out with the rubber moisture seal attached. The rubber seal can be removed from the bulb and of course you want to put it on the new replacement bulb. A lot of words, but its all quite simple, quick and easy. Calvin Bryant
yes you can install factory fog lights on a non fog light car,however, there may be some fabricating of brackets to mount the fog lights to.also you must either install your own switch or wire them directly into your parking lights.
The drain tube is suppose to leak water when the A/C is running, This is the condenser drain line. Nothing is wrong.
recommend vehicle replacement. the module for this is around $1500 and very difficult to replace
Full instructions are at http://www.handa-accessories.com/element/05fogs.pdf includes wiring info. Helpful even if you are not installing their kit.
I am answering my own question.Finally! I took my Infiniti Q45 (1994) to a mechanic who listened to my concerns. I told him that my car stalls when attempting to excellerate, the check engine light would come on, and that the vehicle would sometimes completely shut down. The mechanic told me to take the vehicle to a shop to have the fuel injectors cleaned.This cost me $79.99 at Sears auto center. I also changed my air filter.This cost an additional $30. MY CAR RUNS GREAT AGAIN! (The dealership said that it sounds like the fuel pump was getting ready to go up. it was whinning.This would have cost me around $900). My Q45 0f 10 years ownership runs almost as it did when I first purchased it!
An excellent answer (with step-by-step instructions) can be found on the Nico Club site. This club is composed of owners of Nissan and Infiniti cars. The post related to replacing the starter on 1991-1995 Q45's may be accessed @....... http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=120220
the oil pump is located behind the cranckshaft pulley and takes its drive from the crank itself, search for this file 6g72.pdf it will help
Infiniti added fog lights to the '05 & '06 model years for cosmetic reasons, and to compliment the styling changes to the front bumper. The fog lights illumination output really doesn't provide any significant lighting performance. Because the Q45's advanced headlamp/HID lighting technology out performs the foglights illumination output. You can add the OEM fog lights from the '05 & '06 Q45 to the '02-'04 model years if you want a similar look.
Steps I decided to take was not to remove the
Don't remove two large radiator hoses at the engine
Don't disconnect the overflow hose next to the fill cap.
Don't remove the two top bolts holding the radiator.
Don't remove the PSP period.
Loosing the little horn and lean out of your way.
From the bottom remove the shield.
From the bottom remove the Air compressor bolts, four of them
And let it hang out of your way. Be careful here
Remove the tension pulley.
Now you can remove the alternator.
If you got a dig camera a picture is worth a lot
You do need an extra hand like a friend.AnswerFirst disconnect the battery. You have to pull the radiator and drop the AC compressor. This may sound hard but it is doable if you have the tools and a little know how. Remove the air intake scoop and pull the whole thing out. Remember there is a sensor plugged into the small end of the scoop that must be put back in or you will get a check eng light later. Unplug the two wire plugs, remove the two top bolts, disconnect the transmission lines, disconnect the two radiator hoses, disconnect the overflow hose and just pull the whole thing up. Remember to have a pan under the transmission lines and the water hoses. To drop the AC compressor first remove the drive belt. This is done by loosing the bolt in the center of the idler pulley and turning the tension bolt that is sticking up above the pulley. Now remove the 4 large bolts from the front of the compressor and it will set down on the air dams. This allows you to get to the rear swing bolt of the alternator.
Now remove the nut holding the main power line from the alternator and remove the plug near the rear. Remove the short bolt and the rear swing bolt. Take care that the swing bolt nut does not drop and get lost. I seems like there may be another bracket bolt holding a wire loom but I am not sure. Now pull the thing out, put in the new one and reverse the whole process. When putting the AC compressor back in place it is helpful to align the holes with a screwdriver to help hold it in place as it is heavy. Don't forget to refill the coolant and transmission fluid if necessary. Have fun.I appreciate the previous post; it really helped, but it had some problems. I'm sure that they were inadvertent errors, but they can send you in the wrong direction. Before you begin, I would like to say that this job is a bi*ch. If you have never done this job before, it will probably take you all day - if you are lucky. Make sure you have plenty of Metric tools. To make the job easier, you need the screwdriver looking tools with metric nut/bolt removers on the end. I would also recommend that you go to Infinity and get three new belts before you begin. You don't want to go through this again to replace a belt. If you think you might need them, I would also replace the large upper and lower water hoses on the radiator. I bought the best belts they had at a chain parts house; however, they weren't as thick as the Nissan belts, so I went and got OEM parts from the dealer. Even then, the package for the A/C belt had the wrong belt and this caused a problem. I thought I had put the A/C belt on the alternator. Nope, just another screw up by someone to make my life a little tougher. Check the belts against the numbers on the belt; don't count on anyone. You will also need three 6-8" plastic wire ties, you know, the things you wrap around wires etc, and stick the end through the other end with a piece of metal that won't allow you to reuse it. Alright, let's get started:1. Disconnect the battery.
2. Remove the entire air intake scoop right up to the air filter housing. The only sensor plug I found was in the air filter box. I didn't remove the plug since I didn't remove the box. After removing the two screws on the top of the radiator that holds the scoop and all of the hoses that go into the scoop, pull the whole thing out.
3. If the car is not on a rack, now is the time to jack the passenger side of the car up so you can get to everything. Be sure to use jack stands and tire locks to prevent rolling.
4. Pull the radiator out. This makes it possible to get to everything. (NOTE: Remember to have a pan under the transmission lines and the water hoses to catch the drainage.) To remove the radiator, you have to:
a) I couldn't find the two wire plugs mentioned in the previous post, so I didn't unplug anything (electrically speaking) that is.
b) I recommend you drain the radiator before you begin. You need a Phillips head screwdriver to do so.
c) Disconnect the two hoses from the transmission that connect at the bottom of the radiator. I recommend disconnecting them from the transmission line instead of where they connect to the radiator.
d) Disconnect the two large radiator hoses at the engine. If you are not careful, the hose nipples on the radiator can break easily, and besides, you want the hoses out of your way.
e) Disconnect the overflow hose next to the fill cap.
f) remove the two top bolts holding the radiator,
g) Leave the fan housing connected to the radiator and pull the whole thing up. Be sure to place it on the side opposite the hoses to prevent further drainage from the hoses.
5. The previous instruction said to "drop the AC compressor. This may sound hard but it is doable if you have the tools and a little know how." This is not correct since the A/C compressor is on the driver side and the alternator is on the passenger side. I can only assume that he meant the power steering pump (PSP) which is on the same side and above the alternator. I didn't drop the PSP either. I had a problem with the bolts on the PSP so I left it alone. The only way this would help is if I removed it completely. Maybe that is what he meant by "drop." I still don't think it's necessary to mess with the PSP.
6. I got to the tensioners and alternator from the bottom of the car. My lower engine plate is missing, so if you have one, remove it so you can get to the units.
7. I loosened and removed the belts from the A/C compressor, PSP, and the fan/alternator. You need them out of the way since the alternator belt is in the back. All three have a tension unit for the belt. The first thing you do is loosen the lock bolt on the tensioners. On the A/C unit, you loosen the bolt in the center of the tensioner pulley. On the PSP, the bolt is on the back side of the pulley. The alternator simply has a bolt in the lower back. All three tension units work basically the same. Turn the tension bolt counterclockwise to loosen enough to remove the belts. If you are putting on new belts, you are going to have to loosen them some more.
8. Remove the bolt in the bottom of the alternator; it is connected to a brace on the front of the engine. I also removed the brace to get it out of the way so I could manipulate the alternator. Remove the main bolt in the top front that goes through the alternator. You can't turn the nut in the back since it has a metal hook that prevents it from turning. Reach back there and catch it if you can so you will feel where it goes.
9. After you have the alternator loose, you will notice that there is a wire loom protection unit connected to the alternator, cut the plastic wire ties that hold the wires in the unit. You don't have to remove the wire protection unit from the alternator to get it out.
10. Turn the alternator so you can get to and remove the three electrical wires that go to the alternator; there are two grounds that connect together on the wire protection unit, a large wire that connects to the alternator, and a large squeeze plug.
11. You can now work the alternator out from the front I think, if not, from the bottom.
12. Take the wire protection off of the old alternator and put it on the new alternator.
13. Reverse the whole process. Don't forget to refill the coolant and transmission fluid if necessary. I didn't. Hopefully, I made the job a little easier for you.From the Service Manual(note, this is the Australian Nissan Maxima 2000 manual...identical to the Infiniti I30)
Removal and Installation
1. Remove engine undercover RH.
2. Remove side inspection cover RH.
3. Loosen belt idler pulley.
4. Remove drive belt.
5. Remove A/C compressor mounting bolts (four).
6. Slide A/C compressor forward.
7. Disconnect alternator harness connector.
8. Remove alternator upper bolt and lower bolt.
To install, reverse the removal procedure.
From my experience, it could be your MAF (Mass Air Flow) sensor. Signs and symptoms of a bad MAF are stumbling, rough idle, occasional stalling , etc. It could be that your connector is corroded, the pins have come uncrimped, or the unit itself needs to be cleaned or replaced. Another culprit of stalling in early Q45's could be low ATF.
14 city and about 19/20 high way If your not a lead foot and only if the motor is between 0 and 70,000 miles or so if higher than than this who knows. My 92' q45 has about 150,000m and it still gets the same mileage
there should be two major bolts to the alternator one to losse'n up the belts and the other to release the alternator to the mount. loosen the belts first and then remove the belts.. after this it should be easy to replace the alternator
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