On a 6 year old car you should have changed the oil many times by now. Change your oil/filter every 5,000 miles if you use conventional oil and every 8,000 miles if you use synthetic and you drive under normal conditions.
In most all cases first you must know whats leaking and next remove the old gasket seal or sealant and repair or replace that part's. , EzForJesus
It is possible to replace the rear main bearing seal without removing the engine in a rear-wheel drive vehicle such as the S10. First remove the transmission, drain the crank case engine oil, then remove the oil pan. You will need to loosen the crankshaft bearing cap bolts enough so that it will give you enough clearance to slide the old main seal off the back of the crank and then replace it with the new one.
Depending on where your leak is there are various ways to solve the problem. If it is a minor leak you can use a oil stop leak and it may do they job. If not most likely it is a bad gasket which will need to be replaced and properly sealed. If it is as bad as a cracked block then there isn't much you can do.
I had a Chevy s-10 & changed the rear main oil seal too. The 2nd time we did it I was informed by a better parts dealer that Chevy had a faulty design by putting a U seal and now has a O seal. The O worked great. what a concept!
Oh if you have an oil leak from the main seal yes it is possible to do but you DO NOT have to take the transmission out and DO NOT loosen that main crankshaft cap if you do and you don't put it back to torque specs you could blow your engine up or spin a bearing just take the motor mount bolts out lift the engine a little bit for the oil pan to clear the cross-member and take the 15-16 oil pan bolts out my suggestion is that u get a rubber gasket there easier to work with and you don't need any sealant
My room mate has an 86 S-10 4X4 Blazer and I initially thought the rear main seal was leaking. Then it started leaking real heavy, so I removed the skid plate under the motor to find that it was an Oil Pressure Switch that is located under the driver's side exhaust manifold (difficult to get to, to say the least). There was a normal oil sending unit on top and this huge OP Switch under it. The OP Switch has a weep hole, like a water pump has, that leaks oil when it goes bad. A very dumb idea IMHO.
Although I had to remove the exhaust manifold to replace it, it was still better than dropping the tranny to change a rear main seal so I was thankful. Look to the OP Switch first (on those S-10 Blazers) before tearing into the rear main. It might save you some trouble.
I sure don't know anything about oil leaks, but I do know one thing: do not ask BP as they do not know either.
When the PCV valve is not working correctly it will suck the oil from the engine into the intake manifold and burn it. All fluids should be checked daily this way if fluid is low and no obvious leaks you can get it looked at before loosing an engineAnswerCars are allowed to burn oil. I wouldn't be concerned at all if my fleet vehicles were burning a quart every week. If you just checked the oil dipstick and its dry, it could be only one quart low, not bone dry. If you love your car you will check its oil every week, AT LEAST. It could be a leak. Check the oil pan drain plug for proper torque. You may want to check for sludge near the top of the oil pan under the car- then you will need to change out the oil pan gasket, and re torque the oil pan bolts. Then theres the oil seal in the side of the engine- that should be completely clean. If your changing the oil- you would want to see that the oil filter is intact and the oil filter gasket was present. Filters can break open easily on the highway if you get a rock or shrapnel under the chassis. New engines will burn oil because of newly honed cyliders/ bored holes. The used oil will have some more metals in there, but that's good when its new because your cyls have to break themselves in. New stuff just has to wear itself in to become a lubricated machine. AnswerSince this is a new car under warranty, you need to take that question up with the dealership. They're going to look at the number of miles you've driven, as well as check a number of things on the vehicle. For example, they'll look for leaks, look for engine oil in the engine coolant (radiator), and hook up the diagostic computer to check for any telltale error codes that may be set. If the oil usage is normal, they'll tell you, and if there's a problem, it's their job to fix it.
Haha you are screwed! Brand new car and you didn't check the oil?
With engine oil filter change :
The 4 cylinder engine takes ( 4.5 quarts )
The V6 engine takes ( 6.0 quarts )
According to the Owner Guide
Park the vehicle on a level surface. Drain the oil and change the filter. Add 4.5 quarts of oil and start the engine. Run for 1 minute, shut down, wait 30 minutes and check the oil level. Add as necessary to fill to the full mark. You now know the capacity.
I agree it is possible for the sluge to go into your oil pump and cause it plug up, but if you read on the back of the can it says if your vehicle has more than 50,000 miles on it you need to take the oil pan off and clean all the excess sluge off, this will fix your problem with puging up your oil pump, unless it just happend to do it while your flushing your engine in the five min. another thig to stop this is to put a new oil filter on before you begin to flush, because your old filter most likely cant filter enough. Once the flush is done put another oil filter on#8I'd have to say the tranny fluid in the oil is the best idea so far. To prevent the problem I also agree on using synthetic oil. Use store brand synthetic if you're frugal. Basicly, if you need to use gumout, you've been abusing your engine anyway. Had a 4L Jeep and a 5L Chevy k1500 die after gumout clogged the small channels used to distribute the oil - so about 6-8k miles later, the valves were burning up and the engine started braking internal components. And that's with removing the oil pan on both, and changing the sump screen, oil filter, etc. #9You know I have been using the product for years . There are a couple of things to keep in mind . The main one is if this is not a routine thing then it will have to be flushed twice and the filter changed in between flushes . What happens is the flush itself doesn't ruin your engine the debre in your engine does . Everyone that has a problem after one flush is due to the engine is so nasty on the inside gunk disolves everything , but it is not drained out the oil pan . You can blame it on the flush or you can blame it on how many times you have missed an oil change at 3500 intervials . If you think changing the oil at every 3500 miles is all there is don't get me started on the air filter , breather filter , pcv valve , and fuel filter ! #10I've read everyone's answers and most of them seem to address that unless you have kept up the proper maintenance on your vehicle and that it's the sludge buildup that kills your engine and not the flush, are there any special care instructions written in the directions and if so shouldn't they perform these precautions at the service businesses when the service is being offered? Has anyone contacted a rep at the services corporate offices or Pennzoil-Quaker State company to confirm this? It just seems to me that there's allot of guessing going on as to why a few people have had egine problems after using the product. I personally have used the service after 80,000 miles on my Chevy pickup and have not had a problem since. #11Any "engine flush in a can" has the potential to cause problems. As others have said, the loosened sludge, carbon and particulate will only end up in the sump to cause problems later. (It will also break down the surface tension of the oil.) 10% of the old oil remains in an engine after an oil change. That 10% is in the casting cavities and the bottom of the sump.There is only one safe flush system which, unfortunately, is not available in the USA. Best solution for automobile owners-Buy a cheap oil, run it 500 miles and change the oil and filter. Do that 3 times and then go back to a good quality oil, either mineral or synthetic and use a good quality filter. #12I use kerosene. Drain a quart of old oil out and add 1 quart kero. in. Run at idle 20 mins. then drain. Next, pour 1 quart of oil in the engine with the oil pan plug off so the oil drains. That helps clear out the kero. and loose debris. Then do a reg. oil change, wait 1000 miles and change oil and filter again.
if it's a turbo engine you should only use synthetic oil only!!
if it's a non-turbo engine a conven. oil will do.
It changed because many people could now afford to buy food, instead of stealing it.
Lubricates and cools the moving metal parts. and helps keep your engine running smoothly
I'm no expert, but the likely cause is that there is an oil leak internally in the engine, and so you're burning the oil during combustion. I believe there are gaskets that are supposed to keep the oil out, which may need replacing. Simple part, complex procedure (meaning extra labor cost).
A test of your car's exhaust (done anywhere you can get your inspection sticker) should be able to show if the fuel was mixed with oil.
There are several numbers
All of which can to fulfilled using one Wix Filter 57035
In case of Transformer oil the meaning of BDV is break down voltage. It refers to the one of the tests of the oil.
Every 5,000 miles with conventional oil and every 8,000 miles with synthetic, assuming you drive under normal conditions. Change air filter every 30,000 miles.
Nothing will happen if you drain the cooling system and replace the coolant.
According to Castrol is requires 3.6L
IT VARIES BUT AT LEAST 25PSI IDLE 50PSI AND UP HIGHWAYAnswerAround 50psi. Answerrealy it depends on the car what type of oil pump is installed but at idle less then 10psi is normally not to good and highway 40 to 50 is great Answeroil pressure is normally at least 20psi idle and should be 40psi or more above 2000rpm. Answer10 p.s.i. for every 1000 r.p.m. is the general rule.
Nissan VG30e cars: 300zx, Pathfinder, Maxima, etc
i have a 2001 tiburon and i use 5w30 fuul synthetic. iv been using F/S for about 2 years. i called the dealer services department frist and they said its ok. you my want to call your self.
10W-30 for non turbo. 5W-30 for turbo models
As the oil heats up it goes it flows much easier. This requires less pressure to move the oil throughout the engine. ALSO as described above, the viscosity (thickness) of the oil ,decreases which in turn makes oil flow, even in the narrowest area's, more freely. like electricity, more resistance, less current/flow, voltage (pressure) increases. but the reverse is also true..LESS resistance(thinner oil viscosity) when oil is hot. resistance to oil flow decreases, and the pressure (voltage) decreases.
oil filter is located on the left front of the engine, it is a paper filter inside a black plastic cartridge, removed using an oil filter tool that fits onto a 3/8 drive socket wrench available from halfords £4.99
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