When the PCV valve is not working correctly it will suck the oil from the engine into the intake manifold and burn it. All fluids should be checked daily this way if fluid is low and no obvious leaks you can get it looked at before loosing an engine

AnswerCars are allowed to burn oil. I wouldn't be concerned at all if my fleet vehicles were burning a quart every week. If you just checked the oil dipstick and its dry, it could be only one quart low, not bone dry. If you love your car you will check its oil every week, AT LEAST. It could be a leak. Check the oil pan drain plug for proper torque. You may want to check for sludge near the top of the oil pan under the car- then you will need to change out the oil pan gasket, and re torque the oil pan bolts. Then theres the oil seal in the side of the engine- that should be completely clean. If your changing the oil- you would want to see that the oil filter is intact and the oil filter gasket was present. Filters can break open easily on the highway if you get a rock or shrapnel under the chassis. New engines will burn oil because of newly honed cyliders/ bored holes. The used oil will have some more metals in there, but that's good when its new because your cyls have to break themselves in. New stuff just has to wear itself in to become a lubricated machine. AnswerSince this is a new car under warranty, you need to take that question up with the dealership. They're going to look at the number of miles you've driven, as well as check a number of things on the vehicle. For example, they'll look for leaks, look for engine oil in the engine coolant (radiator), and hook up the diagostic computer to check for any telltale error codes that may be set. If the oil usage is normal, they'll tell you, and if there's a problem, it's their job to fix it.

Haha you are screwed! Brand new car and you didn't check the oil?

Make up your own mind but here are 12 of the best opinions#1Sometimes it depends on how many miles there are on your vehicle. It can do some harm by removing too much. An old way I know and do myself is to add one quart of transmission fluid, drive around for an hour or so, then change the oil. It is a softer way to clean the engine instead of those heavy duty engine flushes. Seafoam carb and injection cleaner works great too. I used it in my lawn mower motor and in the gas. Hope I helped! #2No, I do not recommend that anyone put gumout engine flush in their car. It was recommended to me at a professional oil change shop. I pulled out of the parking lot and 15 minutes later my car slung a rod because it had broken oil loose but it didn't all go out with the flush. Instead it clobbered up on other parts and stopped oil from moving through my engine at all. Now I'm having to take this matter to court in order to have my car repaired. #3We had the engine in our 1996 Dodge Caravan (110,000 miles) flushed with Gum Out this summer, and it ruined the engine. We had to purchase a new vehicle. We are negotiating with Speed Lube to pay for the ruined vehicle. #4Never flush an engine -- change your oil faithfully or better yet invest in synthethic oil on your changes and you won't have to think about flushing it. When you "flush" the oil, the slop (especially if your not faithful to oil changes) will go to the oil pan. It then plugs up the oil pump and starves the motor for oil until it cooks it. #5Yes, I think the flush is worth while. MAny "SUV" or truck owners I deal with either neglect or ignore the proper maintenance recommendations on their vehicle. I have dealt with between oil changes going 4k-10k before they come into my shop. Virtually all the oil has burned or sludged to the point it is caked under the valve cover. For those individuals I say "flush away"! #6The oil pressure on my 90 Ford Aerostar would drop to 0 at idle after the engine was warm. Suspecting the pressure relief valve in the oil pump was stuck, I added a quart of Gumout Engine flush as instructed on the can. Not only is the oil pressure back to normal, the fuel mileage has improved. My guess is the lifters operate more efficiently. #7ok for those who said that gumout can can kill your engin....

I agree it is possible for the sluge to go into your oil pump and cause it plug up, but if you read on the back of the can it says if your vehicle has more than 50,000 miles on it you need to take the oil pan off and clean all the excess sluge off, this will fix your problem with puging up your oil pump, unless it just happend to do it while your flushing your engine in the five min. another thig to stop this is to put a new oil filter on before you begin to flush, because your old filter most likely cant filter enough. Once the flush is done put another oil filter on

#8I'd have to say the tranny fluid in the oil is the best idea so far. To prevent the problem I also agree on using synthetic oil. Use store brand synthetic if you're frugal. Basicly, if you need to use gumout, you've been abusing your engine anyway. Had a 4L Jeep and a 5L Chevy k1500 die after gumout clogged the small channels used to distribute the oil - so about 6-8k miles later, the valves were burning up and the engine started braking internal components. And that's with removing the oil pan on both, and changing the sump screen, oil filter, etc. #9You know I have been using the product for years . There are a couple of things to keep in mind . The main one is if this is not a routine thing then it will have to be flushed twice and the filter changed in between flushes . What happens is the flush itself doesn't ruin your engine the debre in your engine does . Everyone that has a problem after one flush is due to the engine is so nasty on the inside gunk disolves everything , but it is not drained out the oil pan . You can blame it on the flush or you can blame it on how many times you have missed an oil change at 3500 intervials . If you think changing the oil at every 3500 miles is all there is don't get me started on the air filter , breather filter , pcv valve , and fuel filter ! #10I've read everyone's answers and most of them seem to address that unless you have kept up the proper maintenance on your vehicle and that it's the sludge buildup that kills your engine and not the flush, are there any special care instructions written in the directions and if so shouldn't they perform these precautions at the service businesses when the service is being offered? Has anyone contacted a rep at the services corporate offices or Pennzoil-Quaker State company to confirm this? It just seems to me that there's allot of guessing going on as to why a few people have had egine problems after using the product. I personally have used the service after 80,000 miles on my Chevy pickup and have not had a problem since. #11Any "engine flush in a can" has the potential to cause problems. As others have said, the loosened sludge, carbon and particulate will only end up in the sump to cause problems later. (It will also break down the surface tension of the oil.) 10% of the old oil remains in an engine after an oil change. That 10% is in the casting cavities and the bottom of the sump.There is only one safe flush system which, unfortunately, is not available in the USA. Best solution for automobile owners-Buy a cheap oil, run it 500 miles and change the oil and filter. Do that 3 times and then go back to a good quality oil, either mineral or synthetic and use a good quality filter. #12I use kerosene. Drain a quart of old oil out and add 1 quart kero. in. Run at idle 20 mins. then drain. Next, pour 1 quart of oil in the engine with the oil pan plug off so the oil drains. That helps clear out the kero. and loose debris. Then do a reg. oil change, wait 1000 miles and change oil and filter again.

IT VARIES BUT AT LEAST 25PSI IDLE 50PSI AND UP HIGHWAY

AnswerAround 50psi. Answerrealy it depends on the car what type of oil pump is installed but at idle less then 10psi is normally not to good and highway 40 to 50 is great Answeroil pressure is normally at least 20psi idle and should be 40psi or more above 2000rpm. Answer10 p.s.i. for every 1000 r.p.m. is the general rule.