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• My first guess is the neighbor's cat trying to get out from underneath the hood. However, if you see no hair, I would question if the oil is getting up to the valves efficiently. I can do a little research, but I would need the engine size, how often you change the oil, what weight oil you use (5w30?) and does the noise come from above the engine or below? Is the noise a heavy knock or more of a tapping? Post a follow-up here, and I'll try to help.
• Replace the PCV valve. I've had similar problems with a Saturn, I even had to replace a whole motor because it consumed too much oil. I discovered that the new engine was doing the same thing. After replacing the PCV, everything was back to normal.
• There is a TSB about cylinder head gaskets leaking on these cars. This kind of leaks can have various symptoms including those that your having.
• Sounds like car has been overheated and has a collapsed piston skirt. This will cause piston slap until piston heat up and expand.
• Synthetic oil is too thin for a used engine. You should use a straight weight oil, like 30W. Sometimes a flex plate on the transmission will develop cracks and make noise when cold (been there). If the oil pressure is low, there could be a knock, which synthetic oil can cause in an older engine because it is too thin. If there is a check valve in the oil filter or a cheap oil filter, it could be letting the oil drain from the oil pump.
• A cold knock is usually caused by piston to cylinder wall excessive clearence. sometime on a quick rebuild .even with spread the piston skirt. you will get a knock. a low down in the engine heavy knock is main bearings. a fast knock is the rods bearing our a cracked piston. a tapping upper niose is valve lifts in a hydraulic lifter engine. in a solid lifter engine you cah adjust the noise out. some time you will have change the rocker arms our resurface. a bearing knock get louder with temperature. pistons expand with tempiture quiting the noise you need any experinced mechanic to tell you what is wrong, in person. long distance diagnose is hard. hold it up to the phone and let me hear it turbo joe.
• It sounds like you're transmission is beginning to collapse. Is it an automatic? If so, you might want a professional mechanic to examine this IMMEDIATELY. If you don't not only will it become undrivable but it could eventually affect the rest of the engine like a series of bombs taking out individual parts. I had a experience very much like what you're describing with a 95 Buick Skylark and by the time it was looked at 2/3 of the engine was destroyed. Good luck!
• Sometimes if you do not change your oil and the oil breaks down into sludge because you didnt change your oil in time you get whats called a stuck lifter and it can cause a loud rocking slapping noise they have engine cleaners that are on the market some aren't so good so choose wisely.
• Oil... and really watch what oil you use... newer hondas and other foeregn jobs have small ports for oil circulation.... well for the oil to return to the bottom... that could cause rod knock... and since the oil isn't going back down right away to get pumped it would cause the rockers to rattle a bit... but when it warms up finally the oil will flo better.... cant remember which company... but if you popped the motor by using the wrong oil they wont cover a damn cent.... even if its only 3 4 months old.
• Ok there right but if u had bad rings 1 the car would smoke and 2 the car wouldn't have power now i had a 94 thunderbird with a 3.8 and i got the same knocking or tapping and it was a ristpin which is located on the piston if you didnt know now most likely if its a tapping noise from the top of the engine it is normally a callapsed lifter which happen you wont lose power and it wont smoke but to cure the noise use a heavy weight oil such as 20/50the tap could also come from rockers if you have a cloged push rod which happens over age it will cause a lack of oil to the top if the engine process of elimination check the rockers make sure there tight and to torque sequence.
• I've had 2 Hondas, and still currently have one of them. I don't think you have anything to worry about. I was reading all of these responses and laughing...The cars run at a higher idle, which is computer driven until the engine is warm. The Vtec kicks in at higher idles (usually 4000+ rpms) but it is also driven by oil pressure. Since the oil is more viscous at colder temps, and the car is running at higher rpms, your are simply hearing some valve noise. Chances are the valves are perfectly fine. Once warm...does the car run ok, I'm guessing yes. The guy that answered saying it's the Transmission...c'mon you can't compare a Buick to a Honda!
• It's because oil, even a multi-grade like 5w30 is still too thick to flow efficiently when cold. Auto manufacturers choose an engine oil "weight" for OPERATING temperatures, not for when the engine is cold. Even a 5 or 0w oil, when cold, is thicker than a 40w at operating temp. This causes restriction in the small orifices in parts such as lifters, which is the most common source of engine tick when an engine is cold. BTW, cold is defined as a temperature less than the oil's effective operating range, 180-250F for example. That said, an oil at room temperature is still too thick. Google it.

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If they go hissssssss when drive

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It will not hurt anything, There's more water and antifreeze then there is wiper fluid and it will mix right up with everything, Don't worry

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Alright first things first. Jack up the vehicle and take off tire. Go ahead and place tire under car in case jack slips. On the front brakes the bleeder is located behind the rotor toward the front of the car. In this case the 99 sunfire's bleeder is I believe a 10 mm and is hex (meaning six sided). Go ahead and get a friend or what not into the drivers seat. You will loosen the bleeder and tell them to press the brake all the way to the floor. You should see a strong burst of brake fluid. but if its bubbly one of two things are wrong. Either A you just have air in the line (bleedable) or B you have a whole in one of your brake lines.

Once the fluid has stopped coming out in a stream, you tighten the bleeder and tell your friend to let up. Repeat process till air is out or brake is tight enough.

----Da Python

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I do believe so. If I recall the 2004 Sienna already has fold in floor seats. No, I believe that Toyota is saving that underflow space for equipment associated with the expected hybrid drive sienna. The second row seats do not fold into the floor only the third row seats. Underneath the second row seats is the spare tire.

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Very carefully. If you don't have time to be patient...don't attempt to replace the plugs. On the passenger side, the front 3 plugs are relativley easy to get to. By far, the hardest plug to remove/replace is the passenger side rear...a real knucklebuster. Because the AC mod is in the way, you may have to try different plug socket (straight socket & swivel socket) and ratchet combinations. The driver side plugs are much easier to remove/replace, although the steering column is somewhat in the way. Again, try different tool combinations until you're able to get to the plugs. You must be patient.

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If it has a 4L60E then you need a new transmission control solenoid inside the transmission. If you have the 4L80E then you need to find and change the transmission control module

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secondary backup lamps

Remove secondary backup lite retaining nuts.

Remove secondary backup lite assembly.

Push secondary backup lite assembly outward from rear fascia.

Remove the socket. Twist socket and pull outward.

Remove the bulb. Twist the bulb and pull outward.

License plate lamps

Remove the license lamp retaining screws.

Remove the socket.

Remove the bulb.

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I have no problems with them on a 02

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First you buy a good-quality 3rd brake light kit appropriate for the mounting angle on your particular car -- see the links below for examples. If your car's left and right brake lights are separate from the left and right rear turn signals (different bulbs for the brake lights and turn signals), then you just follow the instructions with the kit. If your car has combination brake/turn lights (the same red light burns steadily for brake light or flashes for turn signal) then you must run a new wire from the brake light switch to the rear of the car to feed the new 3rd brake light -- cars with combination brake/turn lights route power from the brake light switch through the turn signal switch and then from there to the back of the car; if you try to get away without running the new wire, the 3rd brake light won't work properly and you'll backfeed other lighting circuits with random results.

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5w30 only.

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In a moment.

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it does not run smoothly and not all plugs fire when supposed to

Addition to above:

No spark or intermittent spark, a problem that was fairly common back when distributors had vacuum advances was that one of the wires going to the pickup coil (pole piece) would break from the back and forth movement of the pickup as the vacuum advance would move it to control the timing, symptoms would be no start or that it would start and when you put a load on the engine and the vacuum dropped the vacuum advance would start to move the pickup coil, the broken wire would open the circuit and the spark would die.To check this problem was fairly simple by removing the cap & rotor and tugging lightly on the wires where they go into the pickup coil/pole piece, if one of the wires was broken you could see it and knew you had to replace the pickup coil which GM called a pole piece (magnetic pickup coil and pole piece are the same thing).

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IF you remove the passenger side turn signal you will see where the ac line enters the bottom of the condenser. Remove that line and reach down with a pair of needle nose pliers, and gently persuade it out. You will probably have to remove the whole grill to make thing easy.

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I assume you do not have an owner's manual. Go to the link I am posting.

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On the inside upper frame of the rear passanger door when open there are 5 bronze pegs that make contact with the door when closed, if these become dirty the electrical contact will not lock the rear door. Take fine grade sandpaper or steelwhool and shine them up, close the door and try it again.

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The control wire to the solenoid may be deteriorated and shorting out. Or, you may have a bad starter.

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my shifter lever just broke off in my hand. It was somewhat still attached so I managed to get it back into park(Lucky). Then I took off the bottom part of the steering column, and then the bottom part of the dash to see what was going on. It broke where the mechanism attaches to the inside of the steering column. One screw actually had snapped. I then took off the top part of the dash and then the top part of the steering column so I could access the mechanism more easily. From there you can access and remove the mechanism. Quite a few snap-in parts along the way that a small screwdriver can take care of. It is kind of a pain in the butt, and I still need to find out how one part of the mechanism detaches from the actual shifting cable. I ordered the part so when it comes I hope I will be able to figure out the rest. Hope that helps a little.

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No, there is no V6 Tahoe.

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The codes GU6 and G80 are for the gear ratio on your vehicle the G80 code indicates your vehicle was eqipped from the factory with a locking rear differential and the GU6 code indicates your gear ratio.

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It has timing chain and gears. NO belt.

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50,000 miles is usually the average for rebuilt trannys in my experience. Of course there are exceptions like driving it the right way, etc and also getting a good mechanic.

But i think 50k is about what you will get.

A new tranny direct from the dealer is the better bet. It will cost you an extra $1,000 but it worth it

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faulty drl module

Check the fuse.The fuse may be blown

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on the right side hose. there is two on the compresser and you need the right one.