Chevy Tahoe

The Chevy Tahoe is a full-size sport utility vehicle produced by the American automaker General Motors Company since the early 90’s. This vehicle is available in 2- and 4-door models and 4- and rear-wheel drive options as well.

9,434 Questions

How do you fix the keyless remote?

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Asked by Wiki User

find the knotch in the remote and insert a dime and twist

Where are the freeze plugs on a 98 Tahoe located?

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Asked by Wiki User

There is 8 of them in that engine. There is 2 in the back of the engine between the engine block and transmission. There's 2 on each side of the engine just below the heads, 2 of them are hidden behind the motor mounts and 1 is behind the starter and you can see the other one on the drivers side towards the rear. Now there is 2 more on the front of the engine 1 on each side of the timing cover. You can't see them until you remove all the stuff that's bolted to the front of the engine. That makes 8

How do you change a '91 Taurus' side mirror?

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Asked by Wiki User

Hey Mark==remove all of the screws you can find and the door handle then all of the retainers around the outside of the panel. This requires a special tool avalable at a parts store GoodluckJoe

Your 2000 Chevy Tahoe would not start the other day then it statrted just fine now it wont start again?

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Asked by Wiki User

See if you can get someone to jumpstart the battery for you. If it works, I'd bring it into the shop after so they could check it and make sure it's alright. If it doesn't work, have someone pick it up and bring it to the shop anyways. Hope this helped.

Ford 4.6 Spark Knock Under load Where is the knock sensor located?

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Asked by Wiki User

it depends on what engine you have but most of them are a 5.4 or 4.6 or 4.2 and those have the knock sensors under the intake manifold on the passenger side.

Where is the oil pressure sensing unit on a 1999 Chevy Tahoe?

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Asked by Wiki User

looking at the truck from the front, it's just to the right of the distributor cap, between the plastic intake and firewall. There will be either three or one wire running to the unit. Need a deep socket to remove.

How do you change rear window wiper motor for a 2001 Tahoe?

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Asked by Wiki User

The 2000 Pontiac Montana has the most common hook-end wiper arms. See the Sources and Related Links section below for installation videos. Also, purchase the replacement blades first and there will be additional instructions/illustrations on the replacement packages. Locate and press the tab or button where the wiper blade is inserted into the hook of the wiper arm and pull wiper blade out of hook. You may have to rotate and flex the blade to make enough clearance for the hook to pass through.

How do you replace spark plugs and wires on 2002 Chevrolet Tahoe?

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Asked by Tlunsford

whatever you do, REPLACE ONE AT A TIME! The wires are connected to the plugs in a certain order. If you pull all the wires off then you will need to get the wiring order to make sure you get the right plug to the right wire. Gently pull ONE plug wire off, twist it BUT do NOT yank on it. If they have been on there a long time, they tend to bond themselves to the plug. twisting usually can break them loose. There is a spark plug wire removal tool that grips the plug at the base if they won't some off. Once you get the wire off the plug, follow the wire up to the distributor, and remove the wire from the distributor and insert the new wire and loop it where the old one was. You will need a socket and ratchet to remove the spark plugs. Get a deep well socket and they actually make spark plug sockets.......I am not sure what size you need. Place the socket over the plug and ratchet it to the left to loosen. Be sure to have the socket securly on the plug, pr you could break the plug off. Once you loosen the plug simply unscrew it from the plug hole. Now take a new plug that has been gapped correctly. Check to see what the gap is for your type of plug. The plug must be gapped correctly to get it to fire correctly. You can buy plug gapping tools or feeler gauges. SOme are .35 some are .40 and some are 50. Know yours before you start, some come pregapped from the factory but I always recheck them using a gauge. Place some anti seize on the threads of the plug and START THE PLUG IN THE HOLE BY HAND.............. Do not place the plug in the ratchet and socket and try to fidn the hole. If you cross thread the hole, you will need to have it retapped before you can get the plug back in. Once you have the plug started by hand use the socket to continue to screw the plug into the hole, and then place the ratchett on it and tighten it but NOT TOO TIGHT! I would say snug and then just a bit more. Get some spark plug wire lubricant and smear it on the the inside of the wire boot that goes over th ehead of the plug. You can use dilectric grease as well............ and as you push down on the wire you should feel it sort of click or snap onto the top of the plug. That's one go to tanother and repeat. Biggest thing to remember is: Remove one wire and plug at a time Do not yank on the plug wires to get them off the plugs Make sure you get the socket on the plug squarely to remove it Maje sure your new plugs are gapped properly Use anti seize on your new plugs on the threads START the new plugs by hand Snug the plugs up do not overtighten Use spark plug wire grease or lubricant or dilectric grease Good luck

How do you lower the spare tire on a 91 Toyota pick up truck?

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Asked by Wiki User

There should be a jack and rods under the rear seat. Look closely at the rods, one of them should fit the cranking mechanism to the upper right of your license plate. Turn it counter clockwise to lower it and clockwise to raise it.

Why is there no power to your ac blower fuse?

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Asked by Archangel38401

Wiring problem. You also may have a car that shares fuses with other parts, that blow the fuse when you turn the part on. IE: Dodge vans have a problem that when you turn on the rear wiper you blow the fuse that also is connected to the air bag warning light. The air bag light goes off when a new fuse is installed. Check the web for blogs on your type of vehicle and then search for that area of concern.

Where is the plug for brake controller on 2003 Tahoe?

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Asked by Wiki User

On the left of steering colmun on top of control module with large white harness connector

How do you reset th ABS sensor on Mazda Truck B2500?

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Asked by Wiki User

The abs light is on because there is a problem with your anti lock brake system. Until the problem is repaired the light will remain on. If you go to your local auto parts store they can read the code(s) and advise you as to what needs to be done. If you purchase the parts to make the repair from them they won't charge you for the diagnose. Once the repair is done the light will reset itself.

Is there a security shut off switch of some sort on the 2003 Tahoe your Tahoe will not start all lights will come on but wont start?

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Asked by Wiki User

The car won't start because of the security system. The security system will either have to be bypassed (there are kits available on Ebay sometimes and there are some websites that have them too) or replaced. The ignition key has a built in resistor that the security system checks when you try to start the car. If the security system doesn't recognize the resistance of the key it won't start the car. Then you have to wait 2 to 10 minutes before it will start ( sometimes it's a lot longer than 10 minutes). You could try getting a replacement key and see if the security system recognizes it better. GM installed security systems in their vehicles that are called Passkey I, II and III. So if you get a kit you have to know which system is in your vehicle.

You have a 1991 eagle talon that will start and run for a few seconds and then turn off after that it will not start up again what could be the problem?

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Asked by Wiki User

One thing I would check first: The fuel filter could be partially blocked and you could have sediment that gets stirred up when you start the engine further blocking the filter. After it sets for a while enough of the sediment could move out of the way to allow a small amount of fuel to get past. If that isn't the case, check to see if there is any spark after the engine starts and then fails to start again. Pull one of the sparkplug wires and connect it to a spare sparkplug. Set the sparkplug on a part of the engine that is solid metal and is well grounded. It doesn't even need to be a sparkplug that fits the car. Have a friend attempt to start the engine and watch the sparkplug for signs of a good hot spark. If the engine won't run and you have no spark, you probably have a bad component or connection. Sometimes they can be difficult to diagnose. Get back to me if you can't find out what's wrong and I'll see if I can help you figure out what to check next. It is also possible that you might have vacuum leak at the gasket between the intake manifold and the throttle body or between the intake manifold and the engine

Why does a 1998 Camry 4-cylinder sometimes not start when you turn the key though it may start after 3-4 tries?

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Asked by Wiki User

your igniter is the least common thing to check if your car wont start. check your fuel pump first. their are three things that can cause it to do that. your fuel, ignition, or your compression. an igniter with run you over 150 dollars. start with the small inexpensive stuff first. buy or rent a fuel pressure gauge and check your pressure. if that's ok then check to see if you have spark from your spark plug wires. if you have spark and fuel then the only thing left is compression. rent a compression kit and check that.

Can a bad cam sensor effect starting?

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Asked by Wiki User

yes, a bad cam sensor cause car not to start.


Diagnosis: Engine Won't Start or Run


Every engine requires four basic ingredients to start: sufficient cranking speed, good compression, adequate ignition voltage (with correct timing) and fuel (a relatively rich air/fuel mixture initially). So any time an engine fails to start, you can assume it lacks one of these four essential ingredients. But which one?

To find you, you need to analyze the situation. If the engine won't crank, you are probably dealing with a starter or battery problem. Has the starter been acting up? (Unusual noises slow cranking, etc.). Is this the first time the engine has failed to crank or start, or has it happened before? Have the starter, battery or battery cables been replaced recently? Might be a defective part. Has the battery been running down? Might be a charging problem. Have there been any other electrical problems? The answers to these questions should shed some light on what might be causing the problem.

If an engine cranks but refuses to start, it lacks ignition, fuel or compression. Was it running fine but quit suddenly? The most likely causes here would be a failed fuel pump, ignition module or broken overhead cam timing belt. Has the engine been getting progressively harder to start? If yes, consider the engine's maintenance and repair history.


What happens when you attempt to start the engine? If nothing happens when you turn the key, check the battery to determine its state of charge. Many starters won't do a thing unless there is at least 10 volts available from the battery. A low battery does not necessarily mean the battery is the problem, though. The battery may have been run down by prolonged cranking while trying to start the engine. Or, the battery's low state of charge may be the result of a charging system problem. Either way, the battery needs to be recharged and tested.

If the battery is low, the next logical step might be to try starting the engine with another battery or a charger. If the engine cranks normally and roars to life, you can assume the problem was a dead battery, or a charging problem that allowed the battery to run down. If the battery accepts a charge and tests okay, checking the output of the charging system should help you identify any problems there.

A charging system that is working properly should produce a charging voltage of somewhere around 14 volts at idle with the lights and accessories off. When the engine is first started, the charging voltage should rise quickly to about two volts above base battery voltage, then taper off, leveling out at the specified voltage. The exact charging voltage will vary according to the battery's state of charge, the load on the electrical system, and temperature. The lower the temperature, the higher the charging voltage. The higher the temperature, the lower the charging voltage. The charging range for a typical alternator might be 13.9 to 14.4 volts at 80 degrees F, but increase to 14.9 to 15.8 volts at subzero temperatures.

If the charging system is not putting out the required voltage, is it the alternator or the regulator? Full fielding the alternator to bypass the regulator should tell you if it is working correctly. Or, take the alternator to a parts store and have it bench tested. If the charging voltage goes up when the regulator is bypassed, the problem is the regulator (or the engine computer in the case of computer-regulated systems). If there is no change in output voltage, the alternator is the culprit.

Many times one or more diodes in the alternator rectifier assembly will have failed, causing a drop in the unit's output. The alternator will still produce current, but not enough to keep the battery fully charged. This type of failure will show up on an oscilloscope as one or more missing humps in the alternator waveform. Most charging system analyzers can detect this type of problem.


If the engine won't crank or cranks slowly when you attempt to start or jump start the engine (and the battery is fully charged), you can focus your attention on the starter circuit. A quick way to diagnose cranking problems is to switch on the headlights and watch what happens when you attempt to start the engine. If the headlights go out, a poor battery cable connection may be strangling the flow of amps. All battery cable connections should be checked and cleaned along with the engine-to-chassis ground straps.

Measuring the voltage drop across connections is a good way to find excessive resistance. A voltmeter check of the cable connections should show no more than 0.1 volt drop at any point, and no more than 0.4 volts for the entire starter circuit. A higher voltage drop would indicate excessive resistance and a need for cleaning or tightening.

Slow cranking can also be caused by undersized battery cables. Some cheap replacement cables have small gauge wire encased in thick insulation. The cables look the same size as the originals on the outside, but inside there is not enough wire to handle the amps.

If the headlights continue to shine brightly when you attempt to start the engine and nothing happens (no cranking), voltage is not reaching the starter. The problem here is likely an open or misadjusted park/neutral safety switch, a bad ignition switch, or a faulty starter relay or solenoid. Fuses and fusible links should also be checked because overloads caused by continuous cranking or jump starting may have blown one of these protective devices.

If the starter or solenoid clicks but nothing else happens when you attempt to start the engine, there may not be enough amps to spin the starter. Or the starter may be bad. A poor battery cable, solenoid or ground connection, or high resistance in the solenoid itself may be the problem. A voltage check at the solenoid will reveal if battery voltage is passing through the ignition switch circuit. If the solenoid or relay is receiving battery voltage but is not closing or passing enough amps from the battery to spin the starter motor, the solenoid ground may be bad or the contacts in the solenoid may be worn, pitted or corroded. If the starter cranks when the solenoid is bypassed, a new solenoid is needed, not a starter.

Most engines need a cranking speed of 200 to 300 rpm to start, so if the starter is weak and can't crank the engine fast enough to build compression, the engine won't start. In some instances, a weak starter may crank the engine fast enough but prevent it from starting because it draws all the power from the battery and does not leave enough for the injectors or ignition system.

If the lights dim and there is little or no cranking when you attempt to start the engine, the starter may be locked up, dragging or suffering from high internal resistance, worn brushes, shorts or opens in the windings or armature. A starter current draw test will tell you if the starter is pulling too many amps.

A good starter will normally draw 60 to 150 amps with no load on it, and up to 200 amps or more while cranking the engine. The no load amp draw depends on the rating of the starter while the cranking amp draw depends on the displacement and compression of the engine. Always refer to the OEM specs for the exact amp values. Some "high torque" GM starters, for example, may have a no load draw of up to 250 amps. Toyota starters on four-cylinder engines typically draw 130 to 150 amps, and up to 175 amps on six-cylinder engines.

An unusually high current draw and low free turning speed or cranking speed typically indicates a shorted armature, grounded armature or field coils, or excessive friction within the starter itself (dirty, worn or binding bearings or bushings, a bent armature shaft or contact between the armature and field coils). The magnets in permanent magnet starters can sometimes break or separate from the housing and drag against the armature.

A starter that does not turn at all and draws a high current may have a ground in the terminal or field coils, or a frozen armature. On the other hand, the start may be fine but can't crank the engine because the engine is seized or hydrolocked. So before you condemn the starter, try turning the engine over by hand. Won't budge? Then the engine is probably locked up.

A starter that won't spin at all and draws zero amps has an open field circuit, open armature coils, defective brushes or a defective solenoid. Low free turning speed combined with a low current draw indicates high internal resistance (bad connections, bad brushes, open field coils or armature windings).

If the starter motor spins but fails to engage the flywheel, the cause may be a weak solenoid, defective starter drive or broken teeth on the flywheel. A starter drive that is on the verge of failure may engage briefly but then slip. Pull the starter and inspect the drive. It should turn freely in one direction but not in the other. A bad drive will turn freely in both directions or not at all.


When the engine cranks normally but won't start, you need to check ignition, fuel and compression. Ignition is easy enough to check with a spark tester or by positioning a plug wire near a good ground. No spark? The most likely causes would be a failed ignition module, distributor pickup or crank position (CKP) sensors

A tool such as an Ignition System Simulator can speed the diagnosis by quickly telling you if the ignition module and coil are capable of producing a spark with a simulated timing input signal. If the simulated signal generates a spark, the problem is a bad distributor pickup or crankshaft position sensor. No spark would point to a bad module or coil. Measuring ignition coil primary and secondary resistance can rule out that component as the culprit.

Module problems as well as pickup problems are often caused by loose, broken or corroded wiring terminals and connectors. Older GM HEI ignition modules are notorious for this. If you are working on a distributorless ignition system with a Hall effect crankshaft position sensor, check the sensor's reference voltage (VRef) and ground. The sensor must have 5 volts or it will remain permanently off and not generate a crank signal (which should set a fault code). Measure VRef between the sensor power supply wire and ground (use the engine block for a ground, not the sensor ground circuit wire). Don't see 5 volts? Then check the sensor wiring harness for loose or corroded connectors. A poor ground connection will have the same effect on the sensor operation as a bad VRef supply. Measure the voltage drop between the sensor ground wire and the engine block. More than a 0.1 voltage drop indicates a bad ground connection. Check the sensor mounting and wiring harness.

If a Hall effect crank sensor has power and ground, the next thing to check would be its output. With nothing in the sensor window, the sensor should be "on" and read 5 volts (VRef). Measure the sensor D.C. output voltage between the sensor signal output wire and ground (use the engine block again, not the ground wire). When the engine is cranked, the sensor output should drop to zero every time the shutter blade, notch, magnetic button or gear tooth passes through the sensor. No change in voltage would indicate a bad sensor that needs to be replaced.

If the primary side of the ignition system seems to be producing a trigger signal for the coil but the voltage is not reaching the plugs, a visual inspection of the coil tower, distributor cap, rotor and plug wires should be made to identify any defects that might be preventing the spark from reaching its intended destination.


If you see a good hot spark when you crank the engine, but it won't start, check for fuel. The problem might be a bad fuel pump

On an older engine with a carburetor, pump the throttle linkage and look for fuel squirting into the carburetor throat. No fuel? Possible causes include a bad mechanical fuel pump, stuck needle valve in the carburetor, a plugged fuel line or fuel filter.

On newer vehicles with electronic fuel injection, connect a pressure gauge to the fuel rail to see if there is any pressure in the line. No pressure when the key is on? Check for a failed fuel pump, pump relay, fuse or wiring problem. On Fords, don't forget to check the inertia safety switch which is usually hidden in the trunk or under a rear kick panel. The switch shuts off the fuel pump in an accident. So if the switch has been tripped, resetting it should restore the flow of fuel to the engine. Lack of fuel can also be caused by obstructions in the fuel line or pickup sock inside the tank. And don't forget to check the fuel gauge. It is amazing how many no starts are caused by an empty fuel tank.

There is also the possibility that the fuel in the tank may be heavily contaminated with water or overloaded with alcohol. If the tank was just filled, bad gas might be causing the problem.

On EFI-equipped engines, fuel pressure in the line does not necessarily mean the fuel is being injected into the engine. Listen for clicking or buzzing that would indicate the injectors are working. No noise? Check for voltage and ground at the injectors. A defective ECM may not be driving the injectors, or the EFI power supply relay may have called it quits. Some EFI-systems rely on input from the camshaft position sensor to generate the injector pulses. Loss of this signal could prevent the system from functioning.

Even if there is fuel and it is being delivered to the engine, a massive vacuum leak could be preventing the engine from starting. A large enough vacuum leak will lean out the air/fuel ratio to such an extent that the mixture won't ignite. An EGR valve that is stuck wide open, a disconnected PCV hose, loose vacuum hose for the power brake booster, or similar leak could be the culprit. Check all vacuum connections and listen for unusual sucking noises while cranking.


An engine that has fuel and spark, no serious vacuum leaks and cranks normally should start. The problem is compression. If it is an overhead cam engine with a rubber timing belt, a broken timing belt would be the most likely cause especially if the engine has a lot of miles on it. Most OEMs recommend replacing the OHC timing belt every 60,000 miles for preventative maintenance, but many belts are never changed. Eventually they break, and when they do the engine stops dead in its tracks. And in engines that lack sufficient valve-to-piston clearance as many import engines and some domestic engines do, it also causes extensive damage (bent valves and valvetrain components & sometimes cracked pistons).

Overhead cams can also bind and break if the head warps due to severe overheating, or the cam bearings are starved for lubrication. A cam seizure may occur during a subzero cold start if the oil in the crankcase is too thick and is slow to reach the cam (a good reason for using 5W-20 or 5W-30 for winter driving). High rpm cam failure can occur if the oil level is low or the oil is long overdue for a change.

With high mileage pushrod engines, the timing chain may have broken or slipped. Either type of problem can be diagnosed by doing a compression check and/or removing a valve cover and watching for valve movement when the engine is cranked.

A blown head gasket may prevent an engine from starting if the engine is a four cylinder with two dead cylinders. But most six or eight cylinder engines will sputter to life and run roughly even with a blown gasket. The gasket can, however, allow coolant to leak into the cylinder and hydrolock the engine.

What could cause a '95 Mitsubishi Eclipse 2.0 to shake and turn off after driving?

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Asked by Wiki User

I have the same problem on my Mitsubishi Eclipse RS 1995. Seems to be a problem in Map sensor. I was also told it might be the ECU

Your 1992 Chevy Caprice 5.0 has no spark and will not start what could cause this where should you look?

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Asked by Wiki User

If you don't have spark at the plugs, or at the distributor cap, the problem is probably a faulty ignition module. This is located under the distributor cap and ignition rotor. You need test equipment to check the coils, modules and pole pieces.

Where is the starter located on a 1999 Honda Passport?

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Asked by Wiki User

The starter is located on the drivers side right below your manifold and right above the start of your exhaust. Good luck trying to replace. I have no idea how to do this other than to drop the exhaust...

How To Remove

1. Removed the (-) wire on the battery.

2. Disconnect 02 sensors (2)

3. Lower exhaust front left pipe (5 nuts) 3 in front flange 2 on rear. Needed 10" extension and I think the nut was 17mm

4. Remove starter (2 bolts) 14 mm

5. Remove wires on starter. One is a plug in and the other is attached with a nut 12mm. I found it easy to remove it once starter was loose I could get a better view of it.

Good Luck

I looked on this site for this information myself. I have a 99 Passport and needed to change the starter. It is, like the answer below says, on the driver's side forward of the exhaust and below the manifold. I didn't find any good answers for how to get it out of the compartment so a friend and I went at it this afternoon.

Disconnect the battery first. After that you may want to remove the driver's side front wheel. This gave us access to the starter for removal of the battery cable and the spade terminal which are on top of the starter while it is mounted. We then removed the two bolts that hold the starter in place. All of that took about 10 minutes to complete. On my passport the battery cable came off with a 12mm, the spade terminal is plug and play and all you have to do is push down on the tab on top and pull the terminal apart. The bolts for the starter are 14mm on my car. You need extensions to get at them though.

After that is when all of the work began. We then tried every way possible to get it out of the compartment without taking anything else apart. No luck. So we removed the heat shields around the exhaust manifold and exhaust. Still not enough room. So finally we took the 3 bolts out of the flange that connects the exhaust manifold to the exhaust pipe. We had to use reverse torque bolt sockets for this. The one we used was the NAPA E-14. There are nuts on the bolts but removing only those won't do the trick. They are 17mm in case you are wondering. We then had to remove the bracket just aft (rearward) of the catalytic converter to get enough play in the exhaust pipe. Once you do this, the starter slides right out of the space moving down and aft.

The new starter goes right in no problems once you are to this point. The only casualty to the whole process was one of the bolts from that flange on the exhaust manifold lost it's threads in the process. We were lucky that none of mine sheared off which is apparently a large concern and somewhat of a probability. Good luck.

Where is the radio amplifier relay located on 2000 Chevy Tahoe z71?

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Asked by Wiki User

It's located underneath the front passenger seat.

Does the 2001 Dodge Durango come equipped with a double din or single din radio?

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Asked by Wiki User

Yes but you will need an installation kit. You can get them at lots of places like Walmart, Best Buy, Radio Shack. If you don't already have the radio, Crutchfield sends an intall kit with purchase of a radio. You can also find them on Ebay. I highly recommend a kit as it makes the job so much easier, especially the wiring.