About 6 quarts. 1 and 1/2 gallon .
This would depend on what your wanting to install a starter on like year, make and model. In any case if your mechanically inclined buy a Chiltons or Haynes repair manual at most any auto parts store for your particular vehicle these books normally explain how to remove and reinstall such parts. , EzForJesus
how to install a starter on a 1992 Chevy blazer? after removing mounting bolts, I slid the starter out, but there wasn't enough clearance to remove it from the engine. if anyone has an idea please let us know.
i had to remove the passenger side motor mount from the engine in order to slide the starter out through the top side. once i had it removed i jacked the moter up slightly to help with the clearence issue
This usually happens when you're running late. You try to start your car and the engine is slow to turn or worse yet, it won't turn at all.
IT VARIES BUT AT LEAST 25PSI IDLE 50PSI AND UP HIGHWAYAnswerAround 50psi. Answerrealy it depends on the car what type of oil pump is installed but at idle less then 10psi is normally not to good and highway 40 to 50 is great Answeroil pressure is normally at least 20psi idle and should be 40psi or more above 2000rpm. Answer10 p.s.i. for every 1000 r.p.m. is the general rule.
Some car makers provide an access panel, normally located either under the trunk mat or the rear seat, so that the in-tank electric fuel pump can be accessed.
Ford does not do this on the Mercury Sable. To replace the 1996 Mercury Sable fuel pump, the entire gas tank must be removed from the vehicle. To do this, the vehicle must be raised so that the bottom of the gas tank is at least 18 to 24 inches off of a solid surface so that the tank can be dropped and removed.
Before attempting to remove the gas tank, the fuel pressure in the gas lines and intake manifold must be relieved, and all gasoline removed from the gas tank. Since there is no drain plug, and the fuel spout, or filler tube is convoluted and twisted from the gas cap to the bottom of the tank, a 1/4" to 3/8" eight foot long siphon tube will be needed to remove most
of the gas.
On a vehicle that is 12 years old, many, or all of the plastic retainer clips and fittings on the rubber and metal gas lines will be brittle, hard to remove, and will break and must be replaced. Some of the rubbers hoses will also be "welded" to the metal pipes and fittings and might also need replacement, after being pried and twisted off of their fittings.
All rubber gaskets, or "O" rings on the fuel lines will need to be replaced upon assembly once the gas lines have been disconnected because the older "O" rings will have expanded once exposed to air and will leak after assembly.
Once the gas tank is drained and removed, and the fuel pump is accessible to be replaced you can assume that the entire in-tank fuel pump assembly, and not just the electric fuel pump itself, will need to be replaced. This is because all of the lines, fittings, and housing holding or connected to the electric fuel pump are plastic and will be brittle and prone to break upon removal or installation.
Since removing, and replacing the gas tank on the vehicle requires special tools and jacks and jack stands, and could involve danger of an explosion, the subject should be studied very carefully before any removal is attempted. Either the Chilton or Haynes automotive manuals will provide about 90% of the knowledge needed to do the removal and replacement.
The other 10% will be learned as you try to follow the Chilton or Haynes instructions.Procedures
This repair is not a quick or easy one. The less fuel in the tank the easier it will be. I wouldn't recommend even attempting this repair with more than 1/4 of a tank of fuel, and you really need a lift to make this repair, especially if there is any weight to the tank whatsoever. And always perform fuel related repairs in a well ventilated area.
You can buy just the pump, but I would recommend going ahead and replacing the entire assembly. The cost is $220-$260 for Carter or Airtex brands.
1. Disconnect the cable from the negative battery post.
2. Locate the fill tube (hard tube attached at the rear of the tank which goes to the gas cap) and remove the hose clamp at the end of the fill tube. Do not remove the clamp at the tank.
3. DO NOT PERFORM THIS STEP WITHOUT HAVING THE TANK SUPPORTED! The tank is attached by two metal straps which are bolted at the rear of the tank. When you support the tank, do not obstruct the straps, they will need to fall freely when you remove them. The straps are attached by one bolt each at the rear of the tank. Remove the bolts and let the straps fall away from the tank. IT IS EXTREMELY IMPORTANT THAT YOU DO NOT BEND THE STRAPS! They must retain their shape to fit back on the tank correctly.
4. Lower the tank enough so that you can reach the top of the tank. Disconnect the plugs (2 of them). Take a look at the new pump to get an idea of how to disconnect the plugs if you need to.
5. Remove the sending unit sensor and vent tube (both should have blue caps). The smaller of the two will pop out with a little wiggling, but be careful to not break the lip. The larger of the two has to be rotated 90 degrees to be removed.
6. Remove the fuel line from the pump by pressing the button on the side of the coupling and the line should simply slide off. The tank should be completely free at this point.
7. Remove the tank. Plug up any open holes in the tank to prevent trash from getting in the fuel.
8. Remove the locking ring. This is done by placing a screwdriver against the raised parts of the ring and tapping the screwdriver until the ring is free.
9. Press down on the pump assembly and rotate counter-clockwise very slightly until the assembly is free. It is spring-loaded so it should be very obvious when it is free. Remove the old assembly from the tank.
10. Now would be a good time to remove any excess gas from the tank if you are not using a lift. The tank has to go back in a fairly precarious position so the lighter it is, the easier it will be to maneuver.
11. Remove the old seal and place the new one on the tank.
12. Place the new pump assembly in the tank. Press down and rotate the assembly until it locks in. Replace and tighten the locking ring.
13. Now it is time to replace and reconnect everything in the opposite order you disconnected them in. If the tank is in the correct position and there is nothing obstructing it (the plugs tend to get caught between the tank and the body and prevent the tank from seating correctly) then the straps should fit back easily.
14. Once you are sure everything has been reconnected (and don't forget the fill tube hose) put at least 10 gallons of gas in the tank before attempting to start the car.
15. Reconnect the battery post and start the car.
First, You have to relieve the fuel pressure, and then siphon all of the fuel out. to siphon, you need to remove the fuel filler neck. after the neck is removed, and while the tank is still bolted to the car, insert a siphon into the small rubber hose that connected the neck to the tank and siphon the fuel. you have to do that because the filler neck is very long and all of the siphons that i used did not have a hose long enough the reach down the neck and into the tank.
drop the tank by removing the two straps that hold it on...not an easy proceedure done alone, use a jack with a piece of wood large enough to support the tank. also use a helper if available...it's a large tank and it awkwardly shaped.
disconnect all fuel lines, and be prepared to use new plastic clips that hold the lines on.
disconnect fuel vapor valve hose from vapor valve on top of tank
****be carefull removing that hose,**** the valve will brake off at the lip and...that part has been discontinued by ford, you will have to go to a junkyard to replace it if you break it.
remove the top circular hold down ring that holds the pump in. Use brass tools so as not to cause a spark.
remove the pump, and rubber gasket that surrounds the hole.
install new rubber gasket around pump opening with new one and fresh grease to hold it in. a new pump should come with a new rubber gasket, and an auto parts shop will tell you what type of grease to use on it.
install new pump and circular hold down ring.
reconnect all lines,
re-connect fuel filler neck and rubber hoses that connect filler neck tube to tank. you'll probably have to use new hoses.
again...not easy to do alone, a jack is needed, and a helper is great!
Steve phx AZ
its in the gas tank. you have to drop the tank to access it.
the pump is inside the gas tank so you need to drop the tank and replace the pump.
It is inside the fuel tank. Remove the tank and you see a large round ring at the top. Open the rang and lift out the pump.
Taurus / Sable, and most Ford fuel pumps are inside the gas tank.
See "Related Questions" below
blown head gasket
Here's what has worked for me and believe me it works Awesome. First get your hands on some Eucerin lotion for severely cracked and dry skin. Then have someone slop an overdid amount of lotion all over your feet. In between toes and all over the heel. Next wrap your feet in saran wrap and cover with socks. I like to do this before I go to sleep. When I wake up and unwrap my beautiful feet, I'm the happiest man in the world. It really does work.
Gross Vehicle Weight Rating.
It could be a stuck open thermostat that not allowing the temp to get up to normal operating temp be sure to check the raditor cap Maybe I am tired or just missing something, but if it is cold, and your moving, it raises the wind chill factor up. Or more cold air is hitting the radiator and cooling it down. It makes sense. thats common sense..something hot meets something cold, it cools down.. e.g. hot water in snow.. an ice pop in the sun.. If the thermostat is working properly, the temperature of the water in the engine block will rise only to the rating of the thermostat. Once the coolant water goes to the heater core or radiator, the cold air will be very efficient in removing heat from the coolant. If there is no antifreeze in the coolant, water can freeze in the radiator, blocking proper flow and causing the engine to overheat.
That means the engine is running hot for some reason are another.
Im assuming you mean the interior door panel. There is a screw in the bottom of the panel and one under the arm rest, once you take those out, pop out the triangle in the front corner with a screwdriver. also pop out the small panel surrounding the door handle. Then lift the door panel upward and it will pop off.
Call your local GM dealer with the seventeen digit vin number and they will
be able to tell you.
NEW ANSWER: Yours has a 4L60E in it.
The 1/2 tons used the 4L60E and the 3/4 tons and up used the 4L80E.
They quit using the 700R4 around 1991 ( I think )
The 4L60E and the 4L80E will not interchange due to the wiring harness and ECM / computer.
you can use it in a fuel injected gasoline engine. keep it away from diesels and two strokes. but if you're having that much trouble getting a f.i. engine started you might have it taken somewhere
On the inside upper frame of the rear passanger door when open there are 5 bronze pegs that make contact with the door when closed, if these become dirty the electrical contact will not lock the rear door. Take fine grade sandpaper or steelwhool and shine them up, close the door and try it again.
it is worth $25,789
It all depends on the condition of the vehicle and the miles is has on it.
Why would you want to? It is computer controlled, so I don't see how you could.
Well, there are a couple of things I can think of. First, your low RPMs might be caused by a bad fuel/air mixture, which is often the O2 sensor which is around 50 - 100 dollars. Another thing it might be is is bad spark plugs or wires. For what you're talking about, you probably don't want to adjust the RPM level (I take it you mean its idling RPMs) however you can do so. Since your car isn't carbureted, you would have to edit your ECU, which can be done with specialized computer programs installed on a laptop which is then wired into the ECU. Those run anywhere from 200 dollars on up.
Practically speaking, no you can't adjust the idle speed. More to the point, the problem is not simply a matter of misadjustment, and if you were to somehow effect an adjustment, that could very likely cause other problems. Something is broken/malfunctioning/disconnected/etc. The thing to do is find the problem causing the poor idle. When the problem is fixed, the idle speed will fall into line.
you need a scanner
It is positioned in the valve cover.
I have a 1999 Chev Surburban. Yesterday I changed the battery and now every time I open one of the doors the theft alarm goes off. I've tried disconnecting the battery. locking all of the doors and opening them with a key. Nothing has worked yet. Anybody know the secret? thanks Ira
autozone.com according to the chart, 16.0 gals.
the correct answer is 15.9 gallons
Brakes can cause your tires to appear to have smoke coming off of them. If you drive with your foot slightly on the brake pedal with a car equipped with power brakes (most are), you are applying the brakes enough to cause considerable heat.
Are you sure the tires are smoking, and not the brakes? In any case, it is too dangerous to drive.
Your tires are probably not smoking but your brakes are. Mine were smoking the other day and it was because the caliper was stuck which can happen after you have just put new brakes on the car. Be careful because you can ruin your rotors, tires, and brakes.
It can also be caused by high horsepower. In my 1985 Trans Am with a built 350 in it, if I depress the accelerator down too aggressively, I notice a very thick white cloud of smoke simply pouring off my rear tires. It's the strangest thing... This can also occur during hard shifts between gears...
This often happens if the vehicle has been operating with the parking brake partially set. Brakes can become extremely hot and can cause checking of the brake shoes or brake pad materials. If this occurs, the brakes should be inspected to make certain that they are still funcitonal. If the heat has migrated through the wheel and onto the tire causing the tire to smoke as well, the tire is probably beyond help. In a situation like that, the tire should be removed and the bead should be inspected. If the bead is black, and no other damage is detected, the tire is probably ok. If the bead is grey, the tire is probably damaged and is unsafe.
your best bet is a haynes manual for that year of truck i got one and it shows the carbs completely torn apart and labeled im assuming its a rochester 4bbl? u can also call rochester up and ask for diagragms
Not a very wise thing to do. The vehicle has more lugs to deal with extrA load capacity.
What is pokediger1s password on roblox?
Asked By Wiki User
What is 8 divided by 2(2 plus 2)?
Asked By Wiki User
What website can you type in a riddle and get the answer?
Asked By Wiki User
If you are 13 years old when were you born?
Asked By Wiki User
How to replace a back window regulator on a 91 suburban?
Asked By Wiki User
Where is the fuel pump relay on 2001 Suzuki XL7?
Asked By Wiki User
Why does your truck crank but will not start?
Asked By Wiki User
Where is the starter on a 1991 Eagle Summit?
Asked By Wiki User
Copyright © 2020 Multiply Media, LLC. All Rights Reserved. The material on this site can not be reproduced, distributed, transmitted, cached or otherwise used, except with prior written permission of Multiply.