Heater Cores and Blower Fans

Heater cores are radiator-like devices inside the cabin of an automobile. When hot fluids from the engine are pumped into the radiator inside the heater core, blowers within the heater core blow the heat from the radiator into the cabin.

9,960 Questions
Mercury Sable
Heater Cores and Blower Fans

How do you change a heater core on a 1996-1999 Taurus - Sable?

Start with Taurus Car Club Link Below

Replete with diagrams and illustrations!

Unless you really want to remove the entire dash...


Above is true, but I've been told by a ford tech at the Dealer you don't have to Remove the column: just pull the 4 bolts & the Shifter Cable if Gearshift is NOT on the floor.

Drop it down & rest on the seat. Should provide enough clearance in order to get the dash out.

I'll find out for sure this weekend.

There is no short cut or fast way to do this. The dash has to come out to access the heater box and replace the core. So the steps in replacing the heater core are to disconnect the heater hoses, remove the dash, to access the heater core cover on the front of the heater case and replace the core. Reassembly is in the reverse order as disassembly. Fill the cooling system with new coolant, and burp the air form the cooling system.

There is a mechanic who found a way to do it without dash removal, in 1996-1999 Taurus / Sables.


  • Library - you can review a number of manuals they'll have for the procedure - use the copy machine to get the relevant pages to take home and get all greasy.
  • Haynes or Chiltons manuals are around $15 (US) and a great investment if you do much of your own repair and maintenance work. Check any auto parts or book stores for these.

This process is very lengthy, I would recommend that you purchase a Haynes or Chilton manual for you vehicle before attempting to replace the core. Simply put, the Heater core is located behind the dash of the vehicle. The entire dash must be removed to access the door. The hoses are located in the Engine compartment and they lead to the firewall. This is not a project to be taken on by a novice (no offense) and if you do plan to do it yourself, make sure you have another vehicle to rely on. Plan on your Taurus being out of commission for at least 2 days.

  1. 1 is absolutely right!

I've done 3 now and have it down to a full day each. It's a tedious bear!

There is a mechanic who found a way to do it without dash removal. It is in this article: http://www.airsept.com/Articles/RecycleGuard/macs_SR03.03.pdf

The heater hoses must be disconnected at the firewall, and the inlet and outlet of the core plugged to prevent coolant pouring out into the interior of the car. Disconnect the battery.

The steering column and dashboard must be entirely removed from the car to access the heater core which is located in the A/C evaporator case. The electric motor which moves the flaps which direct air to various vents is then removed, allowing the heater core cover to be opened. The core is then removed towards the rear of the car. The full instructions fill 48 printed pages in my Ford factory manual.

I have just had this problem myself and even though I wasn't the one who fixed it, my brother came up with a nifty little idea and now I believe it can be used as a nice little selling feature. Instead of removing the entire dash and steering column (what a rip off, this method is going to run you about $600-$800), just cut a whole in the dash in front of the heater core compartment, from the ash tray to the glove box and then approximately 8 inches up from the bottom edge of the dash. You will still have to remove the flapper adjuster motor, but instead of 10 hours for someone who knows how to do it, this should only take 3-4 for someone just bulling their way through. Good luck and enjoy saving about $500.

Hmmm, from the dude above, so now we have a big hole in the dash. Not a good idea. It is not a huge job, just takes a little time. Sit back, take a deep breath, and do it right.

you would have to rip the dash apart. its alot easier to spend the money taking it to a good reputable mechanic

There is a mechanic who found a way to do it without dash removal. It is in this article: http://www.airsept.com/Articles/RecycleGuard/macs_SR03.03.pdf

Buy the service manual from Ford, or the Chiltons or Haynes versions of a repair / service manual.

http://www.taurusclub.com/wiki/index.php/Gen_3_and_4_96-on_Heater_Core_Replacement_-_without_removing_the_dash - no need to remove the dash!!!

Try flushing it out first, unless its leaking.

This link, referenced above, is money! (literally - about $600)

http://www.taurusclub.com/wiki/index.php/Gen_3_and_4_96-on_Heater_Core_Replacement_-_without_removing_the_dash - no need to remove the dash!!!

I changed my heater core in less than 5 hrs without removing the dash, and that included time to try to glue the little plastic piece that easily breaks if not careful (see above link). You can even do it without taking out the radio, which the above links recommend. I'm not a novice, but by no means an expert, in working on cars either.

Thanks for the postings above!

Be sure to review the "Related Questions" below...

Do you want to keep the car forever?

If your answer is yes, have a reputable service garage or a dealership service center diagnose and/or replace the core. (approx. $500)

If you're not sure how long you want to keep the car or if you are a sportsman and you are small enough to fit on your back on the passenger side floor of the car, listen up...

1. Let the car cool down.

2. Drain the coolant by opening the petcock at the bottom right of the radiator. It is plastic, it is breakable, it is recessed in the lower radiator core support, use caution. remove the recovery reservoir cap to speed up the draining.

3. Locate the heater inlet and outlet hoses on the firewall. They look alot like A/C hoses because they have short rubber sections connected to longer bent steel sections bolted to the firewall. If you are lucky, you can remove the hose clamps at the firewall and pull the hose ends off. If you aren't as lucky, you can move the clamps as far out away from the firewall as possible and slice the hose ends lengthwise with a razor knife so they can be removed.

4. Take a picture of the hoses and their routes with a digital camera so you can replace them too. You will probably replace the entire circuit of heater hoses with rubber hoses cut to length. Leave the steel tubes on the car, they make great supports to zip tie the new hoses to and they help to keep the hoses out of the way of moving parts. Make sure to notice that there are two different diameter hoses used and two tee fittings.

5. Crawl under the passenger side of the dash and look up. You will see a black plastic molded cover about a foot and a half long. Pull the cover down (it isn't attached with any fasteners, just pressed up into the space).

6. Now look up again and you will see a white plastic electronic motor control module.

7. Remove the metal dash support which covers part of the electronic motor control module.

8. Unscrew the other screws holding the electronic motor control module in place and duct tape the module up out of your way.

9. Now you will be looking at a narrow rectangular black plastic cover for the heater core sitting at a slight upward angle. There is a metal spring (save this it is important) and a metal actuator stick held in place by a tiny c-clip. Remove them and keep track of them.

10. Remove the screws for the cover and pry the cover off with your fingernails. There is a foam gasket under the cover which will also need to be saved.

11. Now the heater core end will be visible and if you are very lucky...you will be able to carefully slide it out and slightly sown past the wiring harness and bottom of the dashboard and remove it. If you are like me you may have to cut the part of the dash that obstructs the core or even loosen the right side trim screws that hold the dash in place. But, you do not have to remove the entire instrument panel. Cut just enough to get it out without bending the cooling fins on the end of the core. Save the section of dash you cut off, you can glue or tape it back in or just leave it off.

12. Save the foam insulating wrap on the old core and put it on the new core.

13. Slide the new core into the hole and reassemble the linkage, cover, and dash.

14. Carefully assemble new hoses, clamps, and fittings inside the engine compartment and route the hoses as the old ones were.

15. Fill the cooling system with about 10 quarts of water for now.

16. Look for leaks before you start the car.

17. Remember that the heater core is the gathering point for rust and sediment so you should invest in a professional back flush. They will fill the system with the proper mix of antifreeze.

18. GOOD LUCK...approx. 4 hours in a level driveway.

Get a manual on your car from DISCOUNTAUTOREPAIRMANUALS.COM and it will tell you how to replace your heater core. This is a hard job.

Many shops won't tell you they break part of the dash to do this job in half the time so they can still charge you for the full time

I am working on a 97 Taurus, which is similar.

The repair is involved and requires you to drain the cooling systems. Then remove the instrument cluster, that requires removal of the steering column.

Chilton has a manual that gives step by step directions. If you can't find it, we used to copy pages from the library's copy.

The manual is cheaper than just getting a mechanic to diagnose the problem.


Here is some help for 1999 Sable, single overhead cam 3.0.

Do you have to remove the entire dash? No! Steering column? Nope. Do you have to loosen the dash? Most definitely.

Start by removing the black panel under the glove box (most of this procedure is listed above). From there you can see the white box housing an electrical motor. Take it off. I also removed the glove box and the glove box surround (three screws on the hinge, turn storage compartment sideways and pull). The surround just pulls out, it is held in place with Christmas trees. Also remove the ash tray. It has wires that run to the cigarette lighter, just pull them off, press in the black plastic tabs on the sides and pull it forward.

Now you can see what you are doing. Behind that white electrical motor box is access to the heater core. Unscrew the cover, save the foam pad (see all those instructions above). Now, pull on the heater core (assuming you have already pulled off the hose in the engine compartment.) The heater core will hit part of the ashtray surround. It looks as if it will almost come out, doesn't it! And it will after you loosen the dash. Pop off the side covers of the dash in the door jams. You will see two screws on both driver's and passenger's sides. Loosen the drivers side until the bottom screw is almost out, and the top screw is just a few turns tighter than the bottom screw. Remove both screws on the passenger side. Pop off the defrost vent cover on top of the dash with a flat blade screw driver, or preferably a plastic wedge. You will see three screws, right, middle and left. Remove. Now the dash will be able to move forward and up, pivoting off the driver's side screws.

You may still have to cut a small piece of the dash. Pull the dash forward and up. Put a 2x4 under it to hold it or get your wife/buddy/relative to help you. If you don't have a wife/buddy/relative you better get the 2x4 and examine your blatant personality flaws. Pull the heater core forward and down. It may snag on the corner of the dash that was previously covered by the glove box surround. I cut this little corner off with a utility knife, and I am not sweating it because it all gets covered back up! Now get that nasty old core out, reverse directions with the new core, and if your impeller blades haven't rusted completely off like mine are, then you should have heat rolling out those vents!

I did not have to disconnect the steering column, radio, or any other such nonsense. Oh, and do your self a favor and remove the passenger seat. It is just four bolts and a little wiring harness. You can then roll around on the floor to find whatever angle you need to get your big head up under the dash.

This isn't easy. But it sure beats removing the radio, steering wheel, column, dash, vents, gauge harnesses, etc.

I have never seen steel coolant lines before. This must have been Ford's way of destroying the Taurus/Sable after 6-10 years of use. The 99 Sable is consistently getting better gas mileage than our 06 Taurus. The 99 has 180k, and runs so smooth! That 3.0 is a great motor, and now that I have a new heater core and water pump, I hope to put another 100k on it.

Ford Taurus
Mercury Sable
Heater Cores and Blower Fans

How do you change the heater blower motor on a Taurus - Sable?

Recall and Technical Service Bulletin

The body style that ran from about '99-'03 had a issue with rain water getting into the blower case and ruining the blower resister assembly and the blower motor. There is a modified cowl cover that is supposed correct this condition. One tell tale sign that you have this problem is pull the blower resister assembly out and examine it. If it has corrosion or rust on the terminals, you have this problem. Replace the resister assembly, blower motor, and cowl cover.

There is a detailed posting on this problem in the "Related Links" below

It's very easy.

You'll see the round, black blower motor on the right side of the passenger side of the car, under the glove compartment.

Either remove the glove compartment door by taking out the three screws under the door itself (very easy) or gently push in the two retaining bars on either side of the glove box door and let the door drop down. I think removing the door is easier and more efficient.

There are three screws holding the motor in place. They are very obvious. Simply remove them (I think they are 9/32nd socket heads). Disconnect the wiring clip going to the motor (easy and pretty obvious). Then pull the motor out. It may feel like it's still attached, but if you took out all three screws, just a little pressure will get it out.

You may have to remove one of the plastic one-way fasteners holding the plastic piece under the glove box in order to get the motor out. I had to do this. Gently, but firmly pull the plastic piece until the plastic fastener comes out of it's hole. Or you can snip the fastener shaft. You'll have to replace the fastener if you do this.

Then just reverse everything and your motor is back in place. Answer

Look under the passenger's side dash, just below the glove box area. There may be a plastic shield underneath, that you remove by simply tugging down on it. On the heater box, you will see the blower motor held in with four 8mm hex head screws. Disconnect the electrical connector, remove the screws, remove, and replace the blower motor. It should take you about 15 minutes. It's pretty simple.

The blower motor is under right-hand side of the dash, remove panel to see it. If you want got to mechanixtrix.com they have pictures of it and how to remove it. Also check cowl panel on right-hand side it may be warped allowing water to enter and causing blower motor to break.

1. Disconnect the negative battery terminal. 2. Disengage the instrument panel insulator from the instrument panel 3. Detach the wiring connector at the blower motor. 4. Remove the 3 screws retaining the blower motor to the evaporator housing and remove the blower motor and wheel assembly. 5. If required, separate the blower motor wheel form the blower motor by removing the retainer from the blower motor shaft and sliding the blower motor wheel off the blower motor shaft.

Reverse to install.

I have the same problem with my 1989. I had to take the glove box out to get to it. But before you purchase the actual blower motor, take a tester to the wiring that goes to it (starting at the blower motor end and make sure its not one of the coiled looking "resistors" along the way or the switch) Turned out on mine that its not the blower motor itself, but something in the switch or the path of wiring to the blower motor. Sorry not more help.


The blower motor is located in the a/c evaporator housing on the passengers side under the dash.

Remove the cover from under the glove compartment on passenger side. Once removed the blower motor is towards the passenger door. Unplug the blower motor and remove the 3 screws from the housing. Pull the motor out and reverse order of removal. Some brand new motors don't come with the fan, so you might have to take old fan off from old motor and reattach to new motor. Is very simple just be careful when taking clip off of shaft holding the fan on.

Chck behind the glove box area

Ford Taurus
Mercury Sable
Heater Cores and Blower Fans

Why does your Ford Taurus - Mercury Sable heater blower not work?

Recall and Technical Service Bulletin
The body style that ran from about '99-'03 had a issue with rain water getting into the blower case and ruining the blower resister assembly and the blower motor. There is a modified cowl cover that is supposed correct this condition. One tell tale sign that you have this problem is pull the blower resister assembly out and examine it. If it has corrosion or rust on the terminals, you have this problem. Replace the resister assembly, blower motor, and cowl cover.

There is a detailed posting on this problem in the "Related Links" below
If the blower is completely dead and is not providing any air movement, the cause could be in the resistor block for the fan motor, the fuse, or the fan motor.

Check the fuse first. Refer to the owners manual for the fuse. (see "Related Questions" below)

If you have one or more blower speeds, the problem is the resistor block.

The Ford Taurus blower has a resistor block that controls the various speeds of the blower motor. It is located on the passenger compartment side of the blower housing and can be replaced in five minutes. Unfortunately, I could only find the part at the Ford dealership who ripped me off for $20. You can find the part online for around $10.

If you do not have any speeds, you should verify the fan motor works by pulling it and connecting it to a 12 volt DC power source.

To pull the fan motor, you will have to remove the glove box to gain access to the 3 or 4 screws that hold the fan in place, although I did it without removing the glove box. The motor is attached to a large mounting plate that is at the bottom of the air plenum located behind the glove box. If you look up from the passenger floor you will see the motor hanging down. It is about the size of a soup can and is attached to a larger mounting plate. Once the connector is disconnected and the screws are out, you will have to turn the mounting plate to allow the motor to drop. Pay attention to the position as you pull it down as it needs to go back in the same twisting fashion.

I used a spare auto battery to test the motor, but you could use the one in the car, but just be careful to not short things out. Also, really brace the motor prior to connecting to battery as it has a lot of torque and could twist out of your hand.

If the motor is good and really spins up, then the problem is the resistor block is completely dead. (Replace it the resistor block.)

If the fan does not spin, you can get a replacement from any junk yard as they are the same part from the late 90's to the end of the Taurus. The parts guy at the yard can determine compatibility. Make sure he tests the fan before you buy it. Should cost about $10 - $15.
I repaired my fan by working it out of the housing, and freeing it up with WD-40. i then greased it up and it is fine, but I would recommend just getting a junk yard replacement. (much more time efficient!)

NOTE: a brand new motor is only $45 or so. With warranty.

AnswerBlown fuse, bad switch, defective resistor pack, or a bad fan motor.

See "Related Questions" below for more

If the blower motor is the problem, it should make noise or fail to work until you hit it with a hammer.

If the blower resistor is the problem, the blower should work only when set to the highest speed.
First things first. On your instrument panel, if you turn on the fan and nothing happens, you can be pretty sure it's your blower motor. The a/c and heat share the same blower, so if both won't blow that's probably your problem. I would doubt it's the switch. Those things just don't go too often, and it's more work than it's worth to take off the dash to get to it. I would bet it's the blower, as those go frequently in this model- bless the people at ford. I have the same car and had to do this last year. Go purchase a repair manual at your local auto store ($15). It's well worth it. This repair is pretty easy and you CAN do it yourself in an hour our so by following the directions in the manual- I promise, even if you don't know a socket from a screwdriver. Your blower motor, if that's what the problem truly is, is located behind your glove compartment. You can see it if you push in the tabs on each side of your glove and lower it down; don't worry you won't break them. A blower motor is $40 or so. It's easy access, very simple to do and will get you back on track. Just be sure to disconnect your neg battery terminal before you do any work. However, if the problem is your heater core you may want to get someone to help fix that if you're not mechanically inclined. If it is the core you can always just turn your blower on vent and get the hot air from the engine in the winter. Best of luck.
replace the fan motor relay.
Amen to the first answer. Same thing happened to me a few weeks ago on my Taurus. Had to replace blower motor. Labor, parts cost $142.00. Mechanic warned me to keep all switches in the off position when I bring it to car wash. Water gets sucked into the blower motor housing, apparently even it car is off. Go figure. im my experience i have found that water leaks into the blower motor from the area of the cabin air filter and the water shorts the motor out. you may check with your local Ford dealer because there might be a recall on this issue. good luck I HAVE A 2001 FORD TAURUS SES AND THE BLOWER STOPPED WORKING ON IT. I PUT 2 NEW BLOWERS IN IT. THE FORD DEALER COULD NOT FIND THE PROBLEM. SO I TOOK IT TO A BODY SHOP AND HE FOUND A LEAK IN THE CABIN AIR FILTER HE FIXED IT HAVE NOT HAD ANY MORE PROBLEMS. if their is water in the blower motor ford has a tsb (technical service bulliten) to replace the blower motor, blower motor switch, the passanger side cowl panel and a new weatherstrip. check with you local dealer.
Blown blower motor fuse? Bad blower motor? Bad blower motor resistor? Blower Relay?

Heater Cores and Blower Fans
Dodge Ram
Ford F-150

What is the easiest way to replace a heater core on a 1986 Ford F-150 pick up?

The heater core is located inside the passenger compartment behind the glove box. Remove the glove box liner by removing about 6 screws. Unscrew the heater core cover and you can then see the heater core. Inside the engine compartment you will be able to see where the two hoses connect to the heater core. Disconnect these and with a little wiggling, the heater core will come out. ------------------------------------------------------------- *** Caution ***Never open, service or drain the radiator or cooling system when hot; serious burns can occur from the steam and hot coolant. Also when draining engine coolant, keep in mind that cats and dogs are attracted to ethylene glycol antifreeze and could drink ant that is left in an uncovered container or in puddles on the ground. This will prove fatal in sufficient quantities. Always drain coolant into a sealable container. Coolant should be reused unless it is contaminated or is several years old. Heater Core 1. Disconnect the battery ground cable 2. Drain and recycle the engine coolant. 3. Remove the instrumental panel. 4. If equipped with the 5.4L 4V engine, remove the junction block splash shield. 5. If equipped with the 5.4L 4V engine, remove the bolts and disconnect the cable ends from the starter relay. 6. If equipped with the 5.4L 4V engine, remove the junction block bracket. 7. Disconnect the heater core hose couplings. 8. Remove the retaining screw and remove the A/C plenum demister adapter. 9. Disconnect the vacuum line from the A/C plenum demister adapter. 10. Remove the heater core bracket. 11. Remove the 13 plenum chamber top retaining screws. 12. Remove the plenum chamber top. 13. Remove the blend door assembly from the case. 14. Remove the heater core. 15. The installation is the reverse of the removal.

Heater Cores and Blower Fans
Ford F-150

How do you change heater core in 98 suburban?

how to change heater core in 98 suburban

Chevy Blazer
Heater Cores and Blower Fans
Car Heaters

Why would a truck heater only blow cold air?

The heater core is blocked, or a heater hose has collapsed, keeping hot engine coolant from getting to the core. The "blend air" door may be stuck in the open position, keeping warm air from circulating, and dumping in cold outside air. I am assuming that engine coolant and water pump is good.

Ford Ranger
Heater Cores and Blower Fans

How do you rebuild a heater blower motor?

Usually this is not cost or time effective.

  1. Remove from vehicle including removing fan
  2. Mark the split on the body of the motor so you can properly align it when re assembling.
  3. Remove fasteners, most are riveted so you will have to drill these out.
  4. Replace the bushings and brushes. These are not order-able by application so will need to be matched
  5. Find long machine screws to replace your rivets
  6. Reassemble
Heater Cores and Blower Fans
Chevy Chevelle

How do you install heater core in 1972 Chevelle?

It is located under the passenger side of the dashboard behind the glovebox. Non A/C cars are easier to change than A/C cars because the heater box is smaller, but it's still the same process. Drain the radiator, disconnect the heater hoses, then remove the bolts/nuts that hold the heater box to the firewall. You will probably need to remove the fender and fender well to get to all of the bolts. It's a real PITA to get to them all... Good luck!

Ford Ranger
Chevy Silverado
Heater Cores and Blower Fans
Ford Bronco XLT

How do you replace a heater core in a 1993 Ford Ranger 3.0L V6 manual transmission 2WD?

If it's similar to the 1994, it's pretty easy. The heater core sits on the passenger side inside the cab, and there will be two hoses running through the firewall. It should just be a simple matter of disconnecting the heater hoses, and removing whatever mounting bracket is holding it in place (screws or bolts). I replaced mine with a borrowed tool kit in about 10-15 minutes in a Suburban Lodge parking lot in Charlotte, NC back in 2000. I've always wanted to tell someone that story. Seriously, it won't be that difficult, just have a bucket to catch the little bit of antifreeze from the hoses.

It's one of the easiest cores to replace that I have encountered. Disconnect heater hoses at firewall. Probably doesn't matter about hose placement, but I always mark them just in case. To remove the fiber cover under dash, take a flatblade screwdriver and prise out the center pin of the expansion clips that hold it in place. There are four 5/16 head screws that hold the bottom/drain tray cover. Core will pull through the firewall and then down. You may have to silicone/glue or replace the foam seal strips on the new core. Before you install the core, check the distance between the inlet and outlet tubes to ensure they match the openings in the firewall. This saves time. It helps if you have someone on the outside to guide you when stabbing the tubes through the firewall. Replace bottom cover. You may have to hold one of the tubes when reinstalling the first hose to the core. Replace any lost coolant and check for leaks prior to reinstalling the fiber cover. If the cover seal is in good condition, any leak should drain through the firewall, otherwise it may leak inside cab. These days with parts from Mexico and others, it is not uncommon to get a new defective part.

Heater Cores and Blower Fans
Ford F-150
How To

How to replace a heater core on a 1983 mustang?

You have to remove the entire dash board to get at the heater core. I think it's F***ing stupid the way car manufacturers do that when they could position it to come through the firewall, but that's the way it is. It's a serious pain to do and if you don't know what you're doing, take it to your friendly neighborhood mechanic and pay him to do it. If you insist on doing it yourself... go to the autoparts store and get the Haynes Manual, or Chilton book, and follow the instructions. They're too complicated and lengthy to record here. But from experience, fill the new heater core with water prior to installing it. I didn't the first time and had to redo it. It created an air pocket the antifreeze couldn't penetrate and it was in the dead of winter that I had to deal with it. Good luck!

Ford Windstar
Heater Cores and Blower Fans
Car Buying

How do you change the heater blower motor on a Windstar?

Check the Fuse first

1999-2003 - FRONT Blower

  • Inside fusebox: relay #3
  • Engine compartment fusebox: fuse #120

1999-2003 - REAR Blower

  • Inside fusebox: relay #6
  • Engine compartment fusebox: fuse #117

1995-1998 - FRONT Blower

  • Inside fusebox: fuse #36

1995-1998 - REAR Blower

  • Inside fusebox: N/A
  • Engine compartment fusebox: fuse "E"
Front Motor Removal Procedures
  • Empty the glove-box and release the clips at the back so it drops out of the way
  • Remove the blower motor cover and/or the vent tube
  • Remove wire harness connection
  • Remove 4 retainer screws - lift motor up and out

FYI - Motors cost about $45

Rear Blower MotorThe fan for the rear heater is located behind the panel immediately to the left of the middle passenger seat. Remove the seat. Open the panel cover that is held in place by plastic screws and you will see the fan.

Before checking the motor, check the relays under the dash, drivers side:

  • one relay for the rear blower
  • one relay for the front blower
  • there are 14 black relays and one blue flasher unit that works with the turn signals and also flashes the 4 way flashers, its a dual purpose flasher unit.

Check the relay diagram in the owners manual for the position of the correct relay.

The other fault may be no low or mid range speed on the blower switch. If this symptom pops up, it is most likely the resistor unit which is located near the blower motor - also behind the glove box.

Check for burned windings, bad connections, or check the over temp sensor for an open circuit with an ohm meter.

My symptom was no front blower operation and after 3 hours found the problem of a bad relay contact - the coil was fine and i made the mistake of not making a diagram of all the relays and flasher unit before removing them, hence the long time repair.

Also spray wd-40 on the relay contact pins for easy removal, as they are hard to remove - no room. I used pliers and be careful, as i pinched my fingers.

Good luck in this repair

The heater blower motor is directly behind the glovebox - pinch the retainer clips inward to allow the glovebox to drop down out of the way. (I sometimes forget to be sure to empty it first!)

To remove the blower motor:

* Disconnect the wiring connectors * Remove the motor cover and/or tube (used to cool the motor) * Remove the 4 screws holding the motor in place Reverse to install the new motor. The blower motor assembly hits the dash and will not clear for removal. How do I get the dash loose where i can pull the assembly out?t>=

Autozone.com lists a few choices from $40-50

Re: How do I get the dash loose...

If you had the same issue I did, the motor unit won't pull straight out after you remove the mounting screws. I just rotated the unit about 360 degrees so that the flat part of the mounting hardware is on the bottom. Then you can more easily work it out.

My question is: I bought the motor and not the motor/fan assembled. How to I remove the motor from the fan? It looks like I just pull really hard, but that always worries me if I'm not sure I should.

Ford Windstar
Heater Cores and Blower Fans
Ford Windstar LX
Ford Ranger XLT

Where is the blower motor resistor on a Ford Windstar?

What the blower resistor does

The resistor provide the blower fan with multiple speeds.

A blown / failed resistor will result in the heater fan blowing on HIGH speed only.

The Ford Windstar blower has a resistor block that controls the various speeds of the blower motor. It is located on the passenger compartment side of the blower housing and can be replaced in five minutes.

AnswerIf it is in the same spot as the 98 windstar, then it is located under the dash of the passenger side. It is actually really easy to change. Two screws and the plug and it is removed. AnswerThe blower motor resistor pack has failed. Replace it.

On my 2000 windstar rear fan although it has a multi speed selector is only wired up in the harness for single speed, the front fan does have multi speed.

AnswerOn the evaporator case. AnswerOn a 98 Windstar it is underneath the front blower motor and has 4 wires on a plug. The glove box doesn't need to be removed or opened. It's held in by 2 8mm screws.

You may very well have a blown fuse, check all the fuses for the air conditioning system, there is a box located on the driver side of the vehicle in the drivers foot well, a diagram with all the fuses and their amperage will be on the cover, remove the cover and locate the blower fuses for the A/c. If the fuses are not blown, then it may very well be that the blower motor is damaged or the control is not working properly. It is recommended that you take it to professional service shop if this is the case due to the many probabilities of a vaccum leak or a electrical problem that is best solved by the professionals.

Its on the passengers side under the dash and its held in place by two screws which will located on the a/c evaporator housing...................

Heater Cores and Blower Fans

How do you change a heater core on 98 explorer?

The dash panel has to be removed along with the steering wheel and steering column to access the plenum box. The plenum box then has to be removed to get to the heater core. This requires evacuating the AC system, draining the radiator, disconnecting all lines and removing the box. Replacing the heater core is simple when you get to this point.

If the problem is lack of heat(not a physical leak), the problem is more likely with the blend doors on the Explorer. This is a very common fail mode. HeaterTreater has a line of products to address the issue at a low cost. Follow my user name to my Bio Page for more information. ford4me

Heater Cores and Blower Fans
Pontiac Grand Am
Grand Am SE

How do you change a heater core on a 1990 Pontiac Grand AM Quad 4?

Unless your coolant has spilled into the driver/passenger compartment first you must drain the coolant out of the hoses and then you must remove the shifter console. Directly behind the console just below the radio you should see a square shape plastic box which contains the heater core you must open the box by unscrewing or unsnapping the fasteners. (Be patient. It's going to get a little tight but you can do it without having to remove the entire dash.)

Pay attention to how it's set up inside the box and just disconnect the old unit and replace it with the new, remember to retrace you steps when putting it all back together, it should take you about 1-2 hrs.

Don't forget refill your coolant and in most cases you have to have your A/C unit recharged after doing a heater core replacement.

Call your local auto-parts store and verify the A/C unit having to be recharged only if your vehicle comes with an A/C unit installed.

Heater Cores and Blower Fans
Grand Am GT

How do you replace a heater core on a 1997 Grand Am?

you need to unbolt the front plate of the dash ,, then theres a cover on the heater core , that needs to be removed , then the heater core is bolted up there and , should come right out after unclamping hose ( located on the outer firewall-- under the steering rack, . kinda tricky to get back into position but it can be done . after back in , just re-install all plates and covers -DONE

Heater Cores and Blower Fans
VW Sharan

Where is the fan in a VW sharan?

I have a vw sharran on a 53 plate could someone please tell me where the front fan resister is thanks lee

Heating AC and Engine Cooling
Heater Cores and Blower Fans
Car Heaters

Why would your car heater overheat?

I have a 1992 Plymouth Sundance with 130000 miles. 4 cyl, 2.0L It has been well taken care of with regular maintenance between 3k to 5k intervals since I bought it with 58k. The car instantly overheats when turned on. The heat blows frigidly cold air. It has a thermostat that is ~5 months old. The car will shudder and shake and then cut out when left idling or when it over heats. It is not losing coolant, but the car smells like burning antifreeze when you lift the hood. It will also steam and or smoke that escapes from under the hood when you turn it on. 1.) What are the possible diagnoses? 2.) How much will it cost? (Chicago area) 3.) Is it worth spending the money on a rebuilt car that I've had since high school, or should I just give up and buy a newer car? The most common cause of simultaneous engine overheating and no heat from the heater is extremely low engine coolant level, in other words a large pocket of air in the system. In some cars it's fairly easy to get the air out, in others it's very tricky. If there's a leak causing coolant loss, that will also have to be addressed or the problem will recur/worsen. Check 1. Your Thermostat (70%) of the time it is your thermostat. 2. Check and see if your radiator is clogged (Also very common).

Another issue is if your car overheats during idle, then it could be the electric radiator fan.

== == == ==

Head Gaskets and Valve Covers
Heater Cores and Blower Fans

Does blue devil work?

Absolutely, yes!

Heater Cores and Blower Fans
Dodge Ram

Does a 2004 Dodge Ram 1500 have a heater core shut off valve?

No. There is no coolant flow valve.

Antifreeze and Engine Coolant
Heater Cores and Blower Fans
Car Heaters

Why would the car heater not blow warm air?

First check the water level. If the water level is low or very low, you may have air in the radiator. If you have a small leak, you will have enough water to cool the engine but not enough to heat the heater core. Adding water to the radiator may not be enough. Air in the heater core equals no hot air in the cabin. This problem is so bad in some engine configurations that some cars go as far as to actually have a 'bleeder' at the front of the engine, by the upper radiator hose/thermostat housing (Dodge, BMW, etc.). The heat selector lever/ switch in the cabin may be defective (electrical) and may not open the hot water valve enough, or even be disconnected (mechanical). Some (Ford and foreign cars) use vacuum to operate the valve and those lines may be cracked, worn, pinched or just leaking. You could also have a clogged heater core. These are 3 possible items you could start with, in that order. The thermostat could be at fault, but this is a give away. If the thermostat is stuck open or missing and you drive the car for a distance, the engine will take a while to warm up then overheat, and the cabin heat will follow the engine temperature. If the engine overheats, you need to take care of that motor more than worry about the heat in the cabin. As you said, you're not asking what to do with your overheating car. You would have taken care of that motor by now and taken care of your heater problem with it.

Antifreeze and Engine Coolant
Heater Cores and Blower Fans
Car Heaters

Why would a car heater stop working and just blow cold air?

There are several reasons for your heater to blow cold air, the heater belnd door being stuck, no thermostat, low coolant, diagnosis is key.

If you have a 3.1 V6, you may need to bleed the coolant system. In front of the engine passenger side, you have a bleeder screw, with the engine off, surge tank cap off, open the valve until coolant flows smoothly, close the valve, check coolant, add if needed.

it's a $5.00 thermastat The problem could also be low coolant level. If the coolant gets too low it will not pass through the heater core and therefore will not heat the cabin air.

You may need to have your heater box inspected. It is possible for the flapper to be jammed or broken. It is a big fix so make sure to check coolant levels and leaks as well.

Heater Cores and Blower Fans

How can you repair heater blower or resistor?

You can repair it by soldering in a new 450 degree thermal fuse. They cost about $1.50 at Radio Shack. I have fixed several this way.

Heater Cores and Blower Fans
Honda Civic LX

How do you Replace blower fan in 98 civic?

Disconnect the battery ground cable. The blower motor and fan are located beneath the dashboard on the passenger side. There is a plastic "kick panel" that must be removed by carefully yet firmly pulling to release the plastic retaining clip. Once the panel is removed you will see three torx head screws beneath the glove box holding the motor in place. Disconnect the power lead to the motor then remove the three screws holding the motor in place.

Chevy Lumina
Heater Cores and Blower Fans
Chevy G20

How do you replace a heater core on a Chevy Lumina?

I replace one of this about 4 month ago. I went from under the dash board make sure you have alot of light you need a metric size 7 mm socket, make sure you have this before you start I kept running to the store.

Remove all the paneling the heater core is closer to the right make sure all the screws are out I missed a few started to pull and broke some plastic of the paneling. I pulled the engine forward to get to the hoses by the firewall make sure that you secure the engine with a 2 x 4 or have someone helping you.

Once everything is loose start maneuvering the core out be careful not to get coolant on your eyes, and by the way completely drain coolant before you start this job. If you don�t chances are you will get an air pocket THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT.

Good Luck and I hope you are as lucky as I was to have a friend spend the whole day helping out.

VW Golf
Heater Cores and Blower Fans

How do you change heater core in golf mk2?


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