The fuse box is located behind the plastic panel or councole, on the left lower side of the steering column. Remove the two screws at the lower end of the dash and pull the lower steering panel cover off. Again The fuse panel will be behind this at the lower left. The panel you are removing is the same color as your dash board or counsole. It had taken me awhile to find it also. The local Ford garage could not even tell me on the phone where it was. They just said under the dash. Well you have to remove the panel. very easy just a pain.

I believe it was an option, so some models may have it while others don't. Hope that helps.

Loosen the alternator and take off the tension pulley. It will be a little tough to get the pully on but it is an easier then trying to fight the belt. The tension pully is spring loaded so it is a little more adjustable.

Hope that helps

In the V6, you will have a tensioner indicated in the diagram under the hood. Route the belt as indicated (if you have no sticker, go to Autozone and ask them to print a diagram for you). Then insert either a 1/2" breaker bar or a 1/2" drive socket into the tensioner's arm (square hole) to move the tensioner pulley into a position where you can slip the belt under it. (it's gonna be tight!) I found that I had to use a socket to rotate the crankshaft in order to get the belt all the way on due to the metallic knuckle that sits close to the crank pulley. The ribs make it nearly impossible to slide the belt all the way under that piece.

The rear belt is pretty much the same with fewer pulleys to deal with, but the diagram should clue you in to that.

all you have to do to get out the old one is there is a hole on bolth sides of the stero and if you get a hanger it will normally work and you just have to pull it out i thought i was going to break some thing but it was all good

The state of mercury at ordinary temperature and pressure is liquid, but it becomes solid at -39oC and becomes vapour at 357oC.

Most likely rust has settled in. The best way is to remove the door panel and spray all the parts with either a rust spray, or Wd40. If you cannot open the door to get the panels off, then roll down the window, and use an oil can and squirt oil all over the lock parts, and work the lock at the same time. Might take some time, and put a piece of carton under the door to catch all the oil. Good luck.

1986-1994 models # Loosen but dont remove the upper mount-to-shock tower nuts # Raise and support car # Remove the wheel and tire assembly # Remove the brake flex line-to-strut bolt # Remove the strut-to-knuckle pinch bolts # Using a suitable tool spread knuckle-to-strut pinch joint slightly # Using a suitable prybar place top of bar under fender apron and pry down on knuckle unil strut separates from knuckle be careful not to pinch the brake hose

Big job! The motor has to be lowered to get at the bolt to take it off. If you have a welder I would just notch out a square in the inner fender well to get the wrench in. Then just use a rubber peice from a floor mat to keep the water out. Other than that its a peice of cake. Take the belt off, one bolt , take it off put new one on and tighten New bolt. Big Job indeed! You have to remove the upper left motor mount while you are supporting the engine. Then you have to remove both lower engine mounting plates which are located under the radiator. Disconnect the two front stabilizer mounts when you are down there too. Remove the two plates and slowly drop the engine to where you can see the Harmonic balancer bolt. Put a 21 MM socket on it and hit it with decent impact gun removing the bolt. Next see if you have enough room to extract the pully. I did not have enough room and ended up cutting about 1/2 inch of metal from the inner wheel well. Next put on a puller and take off the pully. Mine was on very tight and I needed a good puller. Take your time it can be done and The GL on the back of the car mean Good Luck because you will need it. My car was the 3.0 v-6

the timing is usually set by adjusting the distributor and using a timing light on the number one cylinder and pointing the light at the harmonic balancer on the bottom of the engine crankshaft pulley,the timing mark on thr balancer should be marked on the correct degree for example 10 degrees before top dead center. as the distributor is turned the timing on the light will adjust to the balancer . to get the correct timing look under your hood for a sticker that has timing and sparkplug gap specs.

its more of a matter of just going and getting one from a salvage yard or going to autozone or your local auto parts store and buying a horn, not a difficult procedure

the best option is to ground it directly to the frame of the car. but anywhere metal generally works... to get the best connection you should grind the metal so its shiney then put the bolt or screw through the wire (usually a fitting on the end of the wire) and through the car... (do not drill through your car frame use existing holes)

Your car may need an oil change, tuneup, better fuel (premium, or transmission, also your car may need a fluids check

Changing the water pump in a 1994 Mercurary topz is a PAIN in the butt (and often knuckles and hands). I literally just got done taking mine off, and decided to answer this, because no one else had. You'll need a 10mm socket, a 1-2 inch extension, and the actuall socket wrench. If you have a deep welled 10mm, you could probably use it, instead of an extension. The only way to get the water pump out of the car without removing a ton of other parts is through the bottom. So, loosen up the lugs on your front passenger side tire, jack your car up, and take the tire off. There are 3 bolts that you must remove (all are 10mm). All of them are nearly impossible to see, and extremely difficult to get to. If you have a new (or used) water pump to look at, I would suggest looking at it to determine where the screws are. If not, basically, there is one on the bottom, and 2 on the top, all facing the firewall. Once you have all three screws off, simply wiggle it free of the pipe, and it pops right off, then wiggle it out through the bottom of the car. I would seriously suggest having a friend available to help. I did it by myself, but found myself going from the top of the car, back to the bottom, trying to get the best angles to remove the screws. The screw that is on top, closest to the pulley wheel is the hardest, and I was only able to get at this one from the top of the car.

I would suggest first looking on the inside of the fuse box(s) cover, where it should show the location/purpose of each fuse. If not, reference the vehicles manual for the fuse that corelates to the lighter.

According to my Chilton's Auto Repair manual :

For a 1991 Mercury Topaz ( front wheel drive )

( 15.9 US. gallons )

starter motor is below and to the right of oil filter

Look in the trunk on the left side and close to the back of the trunk (farthest away from the back bumper). There should be a metal brace on the side of the trunk, with a finger access hole. The switch is inside and underneath, with the red reset button on top. Press down on the red reset button.

start by taking the wheel off then take off the caliper. After take the rotor off. Then there is a nut with a pin through it, take the pin out and undo the nut. Now the hub will come off and one bearing will come out. With a hamer and a punch drive out the other bearing and the grease seal. You should change the races as well(the serface the bearings ride on inside the hub. You will meed it buy wheel bearing grease and pack the new bearings with grease. You can never use enough grease the more the better. Repeat the process in reverse to reinstall. If you have any more Questions E-mail me at reese_koch@hotmail.com

4 cylinder 1-3-4-2 6 cylinder 1-4-2-5-3-6 Taken from page 1-2 of Haynes Repair Manual for 84-94 Topaz & Tempo

1-3-4-2.......2.3 L engine. Check where the rotor points when the engine is at compression stroke on the number 1, take out spark plug on first cly. and turn by hand. You will find it. when piston is at the top, look where the rotor points. Goog luck.

Its a very simple. Open the hood- reach in behind the headlight and take out the old bulb. You will have to give the big plastic holder about an eighth of a turn and it will pull right out. Then simply unplug the bulb. It pulls straight out. There is a little tab on it to hold it in place- so you will have to lift it up to pull the old bulb out. When installing the new halogen bulb- do NOT touch the glass of it. The oil in your skin of your hands will stay on the glass and it will burn it out almost immediatly!! Grip it only by the plastic base. Then simply put it back in the headlight- give it a turn to lock it in place and you are good to go.

change fuel pump on 1989 topaz. You have two options. Hopefully your tank is on empty or close to empty, with car on jacks, take off the filler hose, support the tank, undo the bolts holding the tank straps, lower the tank, and reach over and unlock the ring holding the pump and gauge. If you have trouble, unplug the wire harness, take off small hoses, then remove the whole tank. Have to turn it a little to clear the exhaust. Now you can see what you are doing. Screwdriver and hammer, unlock the ring, blow the debris away before you take out unit. Replace. Or......remove the back bench seat, cut a hole in the floor where the tank is,(measure from underneath,) large enough for you to work on, and there you go. No trouble this way. Just unlock the ring, clean area, remove old pump and gauge, replace, make sure pick-up filter stays on. Replace o ring seal, put a little lube on the o ring, lock ring, and with a piece of sheet metal, cut to the hole and just pop rivet or small screws and some sealer, and that's it. Don't have to disturb the clamps and lines this way.

I just had a water pump installed in my Capri and while they're doing that, make sure they put a new timing belt in, because if you have a 91 Turbo w/ ac, it's a 4.5 hour job because the water pump is under the engine.

I believe the pump is in the fuel tank on your car and just pull the tank and replace the pump. The less gas you have in it the easier it is to handle. On some cars you have to drop the exhaust system some.

# Disconnect negative battery cable # Drain cooling system # Disconnect heater hoses from the core tubes at the firewall inside engine compartment plug core tubes # Open the glove box remove the glove box and liner by removing the retaining screws # Remove the core access plate retaining screws and remove the access plate # Working under the hood remove the two nuts attaching the heater assembly case to the dash panel # Remove the core through the glove box opening place some towels on the floor to catch any antifreeze that may come out of core