gap them at .54 I have a 1993 Mercury Topaz with the 2.3 Liter I-4. The recommended gap is .044 (44 thousandths). I highly doubt that the plug will fire with just over 1/2 gap as recommended earlier. The correct gap should be listed on the emissions label under the hood. I have a 1993 Topaz with the 3.0L V6 and the label on my car is on the body piece in front of the radiator. Mine listed a recommended 0.042" - 0.046" gap. I have mine set at 0.044"
THE TRUNK RED BUTTON MAY BE BEHIND SOME CARPETING IF IT SHIFTED HOPE THAT HELPS Standing behind the car, looking in, the switch is on the left, slightly closer than the trunk hinge. It's in a small box with an access hole to stickyour finger in. Check for a dealer manual in the glovebox. It's described in detail. It will only trip if the car is bumped fairly hard, or you 'whack' the rear quarter while the car is running.
well if it is a used vehicle the last person that had it may have used tghem to death. i will tell u now that replacing them is going to be a pain. i would take it to your machanic.AnswerI've had that same problem with my Topaz. I had the break replaced and the problem came back after 3 months. I'm not carelessly driving with the E-break on or anything of the sort. I have a 5 speed and usually just leave it in gear when i park. Although, the E-break is nice to have when you want to idle the car for a quick second, a luxury I've only had for 3 months until it became problematic again. I wonder if anybody else has experienced this problem. I think it has something to do with the wiring.
First of all, check the 3 cables. If the first one, is not jammed, then you will have to replace the other 2 that go to the wheels. That's providing that the e-brake levers inside the drums are not rusted. When the car is on jacks, remove the main 1st cable, and with the drums off try and pull on the left right and left cables. This will tell you if they need to be replace. Not that expensive, and keep using the e-brake to keep them working.
the thermostat is underneath the manifold, follow the top radiator hose and unbolt the manifold. fairly simple.
Chances are the oil return ports down through the cylinder heads are plugged and the oil is comming from the valve cover gaskets. The valve cover gaskets are not intended to seal completely under a pressurised system. so when the oil can't return to the oil pan and the pump keeps pumping the oil upward then it pressurizes the valve cover and forces the oil out of the gasket. try cleaning the oil return ports and change brands of oil. I prefer valvoline because it doesn't contain any parifine to clog the return ports.
I believe this fuel pump is located in the fuel tank. So to change it, you drain the fuel tank, undo the hoses and connections, and undo the mounting brackets, and lower the fuel tank. Then you can easily remove the fuel pump assembly from the top of tank, replace the fuel pump and screen if necessary and put it all back together. You can also just take out the bench seat in the back, carefully cut a hole large enough to do the work, and then just patch it up after. Nothing is disturbed this way. Just need a hammer and brass punch to unlock the ring. p.s. put a new o ring on....
http://www.alldata.com/TSB/36/92360950.html may help - some related stuff there
Hey Fred==This is rather complicated and requires special tools and pullers. I suggest you let the expert do it. GoodluckJoe
It originally came with green coolant. It is critical that you know what kind of antifreeze your car takes. There are 2 general kinds. Long life and traditional Green coolant. The sensors base data on the correct chemical composition of the one that was originally installed in it. Therefore adding wrong one may cause the ecm to adjust the fuel mixture incorrectly or cause sensor damage. Some vehicles require different long life coolants- GM has Dex-cool, Ford just came out with another, Honda has their own. If the concentration is too great or too weak, it will not work correct. The original coolant in that car was "green coolant". This old style antifreeze should never be mixed with the newer long life coolant, unless it is a "universal" or "global" coolant that is supposedly compatible with both. The coolant capacity is in your owners manual, usually in the "servicing your vehicle" section. And as for the color. Read the temp ratings on the antifreeze bottles, and use whichever you need according to your climate. Be sure to keep in mind the difference between pure antifreeze, and prediluted (50/50 or half water, half antifreeze).
THey are sealed (the clear lens will not come apart from the rear housing) you have to buy replacements.
You can clean the out side of the lens with a kitchen green pad, a little soap and water. Don't worry, you will not scratch the plastic. Then buy new bulbs ( white ) or blue tinted to put in ( 45 0r 55 w ) There is also a kit available to clean the lens, cost about $ 30.00, but the kitchen pad does just fine..........
Have the module in the dist checked out. I had the exact same problem for 2 years. And every one had a different reason. Its a bad fuel pump, i promise. Replace the fuel pump and throw on a new fuel filter and it will run great. just make sure you dont buy the cheapest one. I did that and it broke a year later. ive had a new one in for about 4 years now and no more problem. replacing the pump means emptying your gas tank enough to drop the gas tank and remove the top of the tank the pump is right there its a pain in the butt but relatively cheap if you do it yourself. around $60.00 dollars.Good luck
I have a 93 Topaz that had the same issue, and it was an easy fix - the solenoid needed to be replaced. If the problem is the solenoid, the problem may get worse so that the car won't even start when it's cooled down.
I believe the pump is in the fuel tank on your car and just pull the tank and replace the pump. The less gas you have in it the easier it is to handle. On some cars you have to drop the exhaust system some.
The starter motor is located under the car. There is three bolts holding it to the side of the transmission. There is also a bracet being held on by the bolt which is connected to the E.G.R. tubes. Just undo the the three nuts and pull the E.G.R. bracet off then undo the power line to the starter and you should have the starter in your hands. Before you do anything though disconnect the + batterie terrminal.
it should be located right below the oil filter in the front
Yes. You should also replace the race at the same time.
im assuming you have the diagram on the hood. Run the belt in the proper sequence. you will leave getting it under the tensioner for last. take the top bolt out of the alternator and just loosen the bottom one. alternator will pivot just a little,but you need all you can get with these cars. now force the tensioner up with a bar and slide the belt under it. secure alternator and your done. i like to put a wrench on crank pully and rotate engine by hand just to check belt alignment.
the relay should be under the hood on the top of the firewall or next to the main fuse box on the wheel well
Loosen the alternator and take off the tension pulley. It will be a little tough to get the pully on but it is an easier then trying to fight the belt. The tension pully is spring loaded so it is a little more adjustable.
Hope that helps
In the V6, you will have a tensioner indicated in the diagram under the hood. Route the belt as indicated (if you have no sticker, go to Autozone and ask them to print a diagram for you). Then insert either a 1/2" breaker bar or a 1/2" drive socket into the tensioner's arm (square hole) to move the tensioner pulley into a position where you can slip the belt under it. (it's gonna be tight!) I found that I had to use a socket to rotate the crankshaft in order to get the belt all the way on due to the metallic knuckle that sits close to the crank pulley. The ribs make it nearly impossible to slide the belt all the way under that piece.
The rear belt is pretty much the same with fewer pulleys to deal with, but the diagram should clue you in to that.
the timing is usually set by adjusting the distributor and using a timing light on the number one cylinder and pointing the light at the harmonic balancer on the bottom of the engine crankshaft pulley,the timing mark on thr balancer should be marked on the correct degree for example 10 degrees before top dead center. as the distributor is turned the timing on the light will adjust to the balancer . to get the correct timing look under your hood for a sticker that has timing and sparkplug gap specs.
The whole assembley of the passanger seat belt should come out with a star tool after you pop off the plastic covering where the bolt screws into the drive line hump. And the same thing for the seat belt buckle where the seat belt clicks in. Be carful not to crack the plastic seat belt cover that goes over the belt strap of the receving buckle . keep in mind that the plastic is old and sun rotted and will crack or fall apart very easily. / while storing the parts keep then in a cool dry place where there is no sun. So they will not further rott if you decide to put it back in. Try to revise the plastic by coating it with a heavy grade oli whill storing it to keep the plastic from further rotting. perferabley a heavy grade rear end oli. or somthing heavier and just wipe off the oli if you ever decide to put it back in.
mabe its your clutch activation sensor that isn't working it happend on 2 of my cars
If you go to www.autozone.com , click on vehicle repair on the left, check the year, then mercury, then topaz. It will bring up repair guide for 84-94. Next click on suspension and steering, then front suspension, then lower control arm. Save this site, it's great for any repairs you have. You don't have to login, and there are detailed pics :)
First of all you will need to snip the factory connector off near the speaker(s) you intend to replace. Then it is a matter of trial and error to get the correct polarity. If the polarity is reversed, you will still get sound out of the speaker, however, the tone coming out of the speaker will be higher (little to no bass). If that happens, reverse the wires and mount the speakers.
It could be a bad starter relay, faulty wire(s)/switch(s) and/or dirty connections. I would check the starter relay and connections first. If everything else checks out, it just might be the starter itself.
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