You must know the answer is NO.
Not necessarily true, we're talking about width I assume, the section width of the tire 10" in this case is measured at the widest part of the tire. The bead, the part of the tire that sits on the wheel, is significantly narrower. Just as an example P245/55R20, which is a 10" wide tire lists the apporved rim width as 7.0"-9.0", so depending on the exact size it is very possible that your 10" wide tire could go on a 7" wide rim.
According to the related links below, intermittent wipers history of bad module under the hood upper driver side. Cost to replace just the part $80. or so. My mechanic soldered the wires back in place in module and saved me a bundle.
If you are having wiper problems intermittently, you may have a loose connector at the wire harness-to-wiper motor interface. My 98 Blazer did after 8 years. Under the hood, at rear of engine compartment, near center, is the connector. Push it back in tightly, then put a cable tie/zip tie/ Ty-wrap on it and tighten carefully. Putting a wire around it and twisting the wire will last a little while, and then fail in a pouring rain like my first repair attempt. The cable ties won't creep loose.
You could also go to your local Chevrolet dealer and ask them to check your VIN, they will tell you if your car has any recalls on it, not only the wiper. They will do it for free.
Everything above is correct, but also note that GM had a big issue with wiper motors in all the trucks in that era, including the blazer, that all you needed to do is ground the motor with a separate wire (I usually did it from the cover bolt to the mounting bolt) and issue would go away. I know that some of them also had an issue with the PC board (Wiper motor pulse board) inside the motor that would get corroded and is a super easy fix, you can buy a new PC board for about $20, it is about 4-6 screws and it is done.
Well, as it says in the bible, treat others as you wish to be treated, and also, if you're nice, they'll give you something in return sometimes, like, once, I was at the grocery store, and I was nice to the cashier, and he gave me a few free coupons.
It's better to be remembered for being nice. Professionally this is extremely important as you never know who you might run in to again, and being courteous will definitely serve you better. People will be more disposed to interact with you and cooperate.
* It should be specified in the owners manual, and if not, they are relatively cheap ($3-$8) so you could do it when you do a tune up. Check it by popping it off with the engine off (it is located on the top of the engine usually and connected by a small hose) and shake it. It should rattle. If not, it is clogged and needs to be replaced. Here are more opinions and answers from FAQ Farmers: * PCV valves are probably the easiest and cheapest part of keeping the engining running smoothly. They should be changed annually or at least every 2 years. * How often? NEVER. Trade secret among mechanics is take it off every 10-15k miles and soak it in gasoline or other solvent to remove all the gummy oil deposits left by venting the crankcase.All it is is a check valve that is activated by the amount of vacuum a motor creates. I've never bought a new PCV valve for any of the cars I've owned since I started driving 35 year ago. Back then of course,you could work on your car unlike today.Lift the hood and you can't even see the road where as before,you could climb inside under the hood and still have enough room to work.Now you HAVE to bring your car back to the dealer to have it worked on because of all the sensors,valves,computer modules etc etc.People...it's a scam! Save your money on a new PCV valve and just use a little gas from your lawn mower to clean the one you have. * The pcv should be replaced every 35,000 miles. Just cleaning the pcv is not enough. The part that fails on the pcv is the spring and cleaning it will do nothing. This part is cheap and can have a significant impact of gas mileage and on how smooth the car runs. Not the place to be cheap.
Yu can hook subs up any where but to a stock the power output wont be much so they wont really hit
just a quick note: bank 2 is LEFT side (drivers) on a rear wheel drive vehicle ,on front wheel drive vehicles it would be the front side when looking down from the front of the vehicle ,Sensor 2 is after the cat converter! if you replace that sensor, clear the codes or have someone clear them for you and you should be all set
Chris (technician for 20 years !!!!!)
Hey James==It would help if you stated what kind of car you have. Joe
the 2 of bank 2 is the 2nd oxygen sensor that is located after the catalytic converter.usually closer to the tailend of the header pipe.
The sensor I believe you are looking for is in the exhaust pipe or exhaust manifold, usually the right bank which is on the right side of the car (driver is left), or close to the firewall if engine is mounted sideways. Some cars are equipped with a sensor behind the catalytic converter that tells the computer the HEALTH of the converter only. It has nothing to do with running of the engine per say.
(Mechanic for 35 years)
Bank 1 is which ever side has cylinder 1. It could be left or right. Bank 2 would be the other side. Bank 1 sensor 1 would be before the catalytic converter. Bank 1 sensor 2 would be after the converter. The same applies with bank 2.
(mechanic for 12 years)
I saw many hundreds $$$ flying out the window.
My spirits soared when the mechanic told me ' IT IS UNDER WARRANTY'.
Picked up car and NO CHARGE it was.
It seems that emmission parts are warranted for 7 years in Canadaand I guess in US.
The actuator on a 4-wheel drive allows the vehicle to shift into 4-wheel drive with the push of a button or a shift of a lever. The actuator allows the front axle to become engaged.
set to zero degrees base timing
the computer controls actual timing
The 85 S-10 is a 2.5 or a 2.8L V-6 and the 700R4 beind them -WILL NOT- bolt up to a 350 V-8. They are what is known as a 60 degree block and the 350 is a 90 degree block. The only way you could use it is to use the 85 engine with it and I have doughts you would want either of those dogs in your Silverado. You will need a 4L60 turbo, later model 4L60E Turbo, or a late 80's 700R4 from off of the back of a 4.3 or 350 engine. The 4.3 V-6 is the same as a 350 so a 4.3L powered model S-10 V-6 tranny will work, but you really do not want a 4.3L tranny behind a 350 engine. But you must have at least a 4.3L V-6 engine for the turbo to work on a 350 V-8. The 85 4X4 S-10 Blazer did not have the 4.3L. The 4.3L was first avaiable in the 88 year model. 86 and 87 had the 2.8L with EFI as base power. Your 85 donar could also be a 2.5L btw. Neither will fit the rear of a 350 V-8. If you are not already Over drive don't worry about it. The OD is in the converter so if there is no wiring to the tranny it's NOX-NIX. If it is OD you will need the the OD 700R4. A 4L60E will work if you know to wire it or know someone who can. I feel perty sure your 88 is already a factory OD.
If the S10 transmission was of the 2 wheel drive type you could swap them...
The one you can afford.
I love my 1992 with the TBi Vin "W" has never had any issues. It has 252,000 miles. I would drive it anywhere. I have known people with the early Vortec with CPI (Vin "Z") and they have a few issues but are still good.
This duckbill thing... oftentimes a metal clip inside will be damaged. If it is extremely difficult to remove, you may need to mangle the clip somewhat to remove it and install a new clip. Note that a new clip typically costs about 50 cents or so, whereas reusing a damaged clip can cost a fire.
New fuel lines will seem hard to remove. Most new lines use either a hairpin or duckbill fitting. The duckbill requires a special tool that can be purchased at your auto parts store. There is a tool for the hairpin fitting but most can be removed with needle nosed pliers and/or a standard screwdriver. I usually suggest visiting a dealer repair shop and asking to be shown by a mechanic how the fittings work. A hairpin fitting is a plastic piece over the fuel line while the duckbill is a bell shaped aluminum end that fits over the fuel pump or fuel filter.
It really depends on where you mean and other factors such as where you live. Northern areas can be rough.
Both sizes are 20"
Front Windshield Wiper Blade (both sides) . . . . . . . . . . Trico 20 inches (50.8 cm)
Backglass Wiper Blade . . . Trico 14 inches (35.6 cm)
See sources and related links below for more information.
It is on the driver's side on the valve cover. it has a rubber hose going to it. you just pull it out and it(pcv) will be on the end of it. I just replaced mine for the first time and had trouble finding it myself. It could be on either engine valve cover, but it's the only hose that runs directly from the valve cover to the air filter/ throttle body. The filter is on the valve side of this hose.
one of them is the fuel pump relay hope this helps ,PS neb
Left to right -
1. Fuel Pump Relay
2. Horn Relay
3. Fog Lamp Relay
It's a big deal, 'cause it's INSIDE the gas tank. Haffta drop the whole gas tank to get at it.
it hard to say exactlly where the fuseable link is, your best bet is to trace all the lines until you find a small cylindrical rubber piece on the wire, if you are fairly sure that this is your problem its then just a matter of cutting out this section of wire and A: Just splice the wire, using proper connnectors, and heat shrinks to avoid any possible short circuiting B: Purchase a small gauge inline fuse kit and install it in the OEM location of the fuseable link. Again be sure to take your time and make all of the connections securely and properly.
At the base of the throttle body.
pull steering wheel. remove locking plate, you can rent tool from auto supply house to compress plate, there is a spring type ring on shaft, (note there is an aligment slot on locking plate when you put it back on). spring can be removed with screw drivers. remove screw holding turn signal indicator, there are three screws holding turn signal mechanisam, remove emergency flasher switch. you may have to remove buzzer actuator, be careful not to loose black spring that holds it in. there should be a screw that holds switch in.
My van did this as well and turned out I just needed my tires balanced..no biggie..and it went back to driving smoothly on the highwayAnsweryou might just want to check to see and make sure the insides of your rims are clean too. snow or dirt that is caked on the inside of the rim will cause this. and by inside the rim i don't mean in the air chamber of the wheel, but just on the inner circle of a wheel. gl. AnswerIf none of the above work, look over every tire very carefully making sure you see no humps or bumps(goose eggs). You could have possibly broke a belt in the tire. SNM AnswerIf it snowed recently, and the problem did not exist before the snowstorm, there may be frozen snow/ice stuck to one or more wheels, causing imbalance. Take the care to a self-serve car wash and spray the wheels from underneath the car and in the wheel wells. BW
yes it could be ur tires but it could turn out to be balljoints and or tirod ends
To remove the distributor cap remove the two screws. To remove the distributor, you must remove the access plate on the passenger side behind the passenger side front tire. Use a socket and ratchet to turn the crankshaft pulley to top dead center. There is an arrow on block at top of pulley. Allign the second mark from the left on the pulley with this arrow. Remove distributor cap and see if rotor is pointing to the #1 cylinder contact point that is marked on the cap. If so you are at top dead center. If it is pointing `180 degrees away from the #1 then rotate crankshaft 360 degrees and you will be at top dead center. Now remove the two bolts that hold the distributor on. Gently pull the distributor out. you may have to turn it a little either way but it should just pull out.
Your power steering has a lot to do with the way your car handles. A sudden change in steering could be any/all of the following: low fluid, a broken belt (there is a belt that connects the engine's main drive pulley to the power steering, alternator, air conditioning, etc. pulleys) or the power steering pump went bad. Before you take your car to the shop, check the fluid and the belts to make sure they are OK. Note that loose belts are the same as broken belts. The belt MUST have the correct tension in it for it to work properly. In virtually all modern cars, belt tension is set with a spring loaded pulley that should always maintain the correct tension. You should check out the belt tensioner too. If all these check out properly, then the power steering pump is the next most likely culprit. Finally, the power steering rack - the thing that couples the hydraulic pressure from the power-steering pump into the steering mechanism - may need replacement or rebuilding.
check out this link
the easiest way to test your idea is to get two pieces of wire and put a fuse between them so that the fuse will take the load if there is a problem ,then check the link you suspect to be faulty first put one end of the made up wire where the link gets its power then put the other end of the madeup wire to where ever the power should be going by doing this you will bypass the fusable link as for now it will be supplied power from the new made up wire if the item works its the link if it makes no difference this is not the problem area good luck
Usualy a fuseable link that is fried will feel hard and not flexable. A continuty tester is the best way of testing it. Get a dvm volt meter.
Measure it with a meter. It is the only way to tell for sure.
good now for a quick check ...pull some in the fuseable link with your two fingers....if it streches it's shot...if it breacks looose it was making a bad connection and is bad any way....this is as quick of a test when you have just your brains to figure how to check circuits and parts. note. now what do you use to replace a fuseable link when you don't have one availaible? i know lets see if anyone else knows......
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