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because when a car is on to long it will shut off because it was on to long

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You buy a wiring harness for your vehicle from circuit city or crutchfield or some place like that. Worse thing you can possibly do is start cutting/crimping wires. That way if you ever get rid of your car you can put the factory radio in easily. Cutting and crimping increases your chances of frying your radio or even worse... your cars electrical system. Crimps can come off/wires can short...

A harness could cost $15-$35, but it will make your install much faster and pretty much plug and play... you wont regret using the harness method.

Not to flame the guy about the lightbulb testing method... but having bare wires especially hot ones... no matter how careful you think you are... is probably the worst thing you could do. Even if you were careful not to fry anything... it still is only going to give you +12,ACC,NEG... its not going to tell you antenna, mute, illumination, or give you the speaker locations and correct polarity. A speaker will work wired in reverse polarity, but if you have another in correct polarity... you get cancellation.

If you are anti-harness... buy a $10 multimeter from radio shack. with that you can at least get voltages, impendence, and continunity.... sure beats a lightbulb.

what u can do is get a light bulb from a flash light with a positive and negative wire in order to find the ground, power, accessorie

Left Color is Toyota's Color Sheme for 87 up and right color is typical stereo

Right Front Speaker (+) Green ---Gray Left Front Speaker (+) Pink--- White +12 Volt Ignition Wire Gray--- Red +12 Volt Battery Wire Blue w/ Yellow Stripe ----Yellow Right Front Speaker (-) Blue--- Gray w/ Black Stripe Left Front Speaker (-) Purple ----White w/ Black Stripe Ground Wire Brown(maybe Black..try Brown first)---- Black Power Antenna Wire 1 ?? -- -- Blue (join wires 1 & 2 Power Antenna Wire 2 together to this blue wire)

Right Rear Speaker (+) Red----Purple Left Rear Speaker (+) Black (might have two blacks, look at thickness of wire smaller thickness should be the speaker)---- Green Right Rear Speaker (-) White -----Purple w/ Black Stripe Left Rear Speaker (-) Yellow ------Green w/ Black Stripe

Try www.installdr.com for wiring diagrams on stereos. I used it on my 1987 Camry wagon, made installing a CD/mp3 deck easy!

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The oil pan gasket on the 92-96 Max was a silicone compound, part number 999MP-A7007 it is important you use that. It is not a Harry Homeowner job. It involves lifting and removing engine supports and mounts. If you try, buy the manual. no-one , even a master tech can tell you on the web for that job. Sorry.

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Pretty much spot on, if you arent of at least Intermediate or above DIY'er, then you shouldn't tackle this project on your own.

Its not as simple as loosening a few bolts.

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It is the practice of supplying unordered items seeking payment for them. This act is totally prohibited by law.

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address enertia is TANG INA MO !!like A-D-D-R-E-S-S E-N-E-R-T-I-A ..

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prob a bad battery if it doesn't get enough charge from altenater to resupply cold cranking amps iniatal cranking will be hard so get your altenater and battery checked Sometimes it can be the oil. Some people don

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As opposed to having in your possession an illegal object, you have something considered a lawful or legal object, which will not cause you to be charged with a crime for possessing.

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UNDER the dash, on the steering column and it makes contact with the brake pedal It looks like a bracket, that wraps around the brake pedal arm, and it has a cylinder type switch that makes contact with the brake pedal arm. When the brake pedal is pressed down it pushes the cylinder switch together which closes the circuit and makes you brake lights come on. It may be a fuse or wires but start with the switch.

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I MYSELF HAVE A 94 AND I HAVE FOUND THAT THERE ARE 2 FUSE BOX'S UNDER THE HOOD, ONE BY THE BATTERY AND ONE ON THE OTHER SIDE UNDER THE HOOD, THERE IS ALSO ONE BEHIND MY GLOVE BOX AND ALL FUSE'S AS MARKED AS TO WAHT THEY CONTROL. I MYSELF HAVE A 94 AND I HAVE FOUND THAT THERE ARE 2 FUSE BOX'S UNDER THE HOOD, ONE BY THE BATTERY AND ONE ON THE OTHER SIDE UNDER THE HOOD, THERE IS ALSO ONE BEHIND MY GLOVE BOX AND ALL FUSE'S AS MARKED AS TO WAHT THEY CONTROL. I MYSELF HAVE A 94 AND I HAVE FOUND THAT THERE ARE 2 FUSE BOX'S UNDER THE HOOD, ONE BY THE BATTERY AND ONE ON THE OTHER SIDE UNDER THE HOOD, THERE IS ALSO ONE BEHIND MY GLOVE BOX AND ALL FUSE'S AS MARKED AS TO WAHT THEY CONTROL.

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The starter is located in the front center above the axle.

1. The first thing you want to do is disconnect the negative battery cable so nothing will short. 2. If it�s easier then raise the front end up on jack stands and then remove the dust cover if it has one. 3. When under the car disconnect the battery cable and the solenoid wire. 4. Remove the bolts that hold it in place. 5. Remove the starter and take note the location of the shims. 6. And just do the opposite of removal to put in the new starter. The new starter will come with new shims. Put the new shim(s) in exactly the same place. Otherwise you will get a screech noise each time it starts but may go away.

Note: On some cars you have to remove the front exhaust manifold and sometime. the AC condenser house but this is only on some models and sometimes you don't have to remove the house. Just be careful.

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Simple job - just like replacing any other disc brake pads. No special tricks to this car. If you have never done this before - I suggest getting a GM repair manual at any auto parts store or the library. It's not too complicated. You will need a torques bit ( a type of star shaped screw driver bit ) that can be purchased for less than five dollars. Follow the instructions in the manual and you should be fine. If you have some experience and aptitude you can use a C-clamp and a block of wood ( I use my old brake pad ) to push the cylinder back in once you've taken the fixing bolts off and have slipped the caliper off the rotor (mine had little rubber protective dust covers over the torque head. It takes a bit of force if you haven't ever done this. Once you get here it is simply a matter of putting it back how it was. Use the other side of the car for a visual reference.

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Listed in your owner's manual and under the hood on a placard.

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Follow the top radiator hose down to the water outlet on engine. The stat is in there.

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Thermal relay is stuck. Replace it.

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A new service calibration for the powertrain control module was released to address a sag condition, as well as others. I recommend receiving this calibration from the dealer. There are any number of internal transmission problems that could be related to this concern, as well as engine mechanical problems or ignition related problems (spark plugs) that could cause this condition.

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located by the glove box, close to the fuse box as well. There are 2 flashers. I read many different tips, but finally found my turn signal flasher right on top of the ash tray assembly. Take out ashtray. Remove 4 small hex head screws to remove the assembly that the ashtray slides in to. I found the turn signal flasher in a clip on the top side of that assembly. The hazard flasher was to the outside of the glove compartment. You have to remove the glove box. You will see a wiring harness on the outboard side, right above the light that lights the area where the passenger's feet are. The flasher is plugged in on the side that you cannot see. You will never know it is there, if it is not working and "ticking." Best way to look for it is probably with a "mirror on a stick." Good luck hope this saves you having to disassemble your entire dash, like me...

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first look on the back of th engine there should be two heating lines running into the firewall.when you see where they run into the firewall go inside the car and remove all of the pieces under the dash.if you got it right it should look like a very small radiator,remove all necessary mounting screws or bolts.go back into the engine bay and unclamp the two heating lines that run into the firewall and that should be about it.

good luck to whomever

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under the dashboard.... way up high behind the headlight switch, next to the seatbelt buzzer, you must access it by removing the lower duct hose and vent assemblies, it is a 3 prong relay

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If the "oldsmobile" was made in the last 20 years, it is computer controlled.

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Your car if its a stick is not pulling out of gear all the way and your moter overrevs

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A friendly suggestion: if you're going to be performing maintenance on your Saab you may want to invest in a service manual (aftermarket should be fine such as Chilton's or Clymer's). There's also lots of help to be found on www.saabnet.com Good luck with your Saab!

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well 16 gallons maybe 18 if ya squeeze as much as you can get in there

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To answer your question followthe lines running into the backof the ac pump. Now the line that runs from it to the condenserwhich is the radiator lookingthing in front of the cars engineradiator, is the high side line.The other line goes to the receiver dryer is the low side.

The line going 2 the (TOP) of the Condenser-{wich is theunit INFRONT of the Radiator}{that has fins on it like the Radiator THE small lines are usally the high pressure lines.JUST trace the TOP (from the condenser)line back 2 the COMPRESSOR & that fitting will b your HIGH side.

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I've got a '92 skylark, and had a problem with the brake lights staying on even after the car was off. There is an adjustment that is connected to the brake pedal that you can adjust the tension on. It's kind of a pain to get up under there unless you're skinny though.

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check your fuel presure regulator Might be as simple as a fuel filter. Or could be many many things. Good to start with this and vacuum and potential bad sensors like EGR or MAP sensor. If your fuel pump (inside the gas tank) has been changed recently, then that is ruled out. I had the same problem. It was tested as being the Map sensor. The pistons were firing out of time and the engine ended up running rich. The catalytic converter ended up becoming clogging and turning cherry red because of the rich mixture. I also had a 1992 Olds Cutlass Supreme. I have the same problem with my 91 olds, its in the IAC motor, take it out and clean it.