because when a car is on to long it will shut off because it was on to long
Is that a question? They work because that's the way your terrible car was designed to work? Do you mean HOW do they work?
Could be a loose or damageed wire harnessconnections at the distributor, coil or alternator. Also, check the intake manifold vacuum for leaks.check all the bolts and nuts are tight and all the vacuum hoses connected to the mainfold are attached properly.make sure there is good fuel pressure.Good luck
Should have access after removing door panels
The first place to look would be at your local gunsmith's shop. Next bet would be at a gun show. If you know exactly what you need, you can order some things online.
I'd like to add the following to the above answer.
Gun shows as a source for obsolete parts can be a god send, but you have to be careful as well. Gun shows are known for also being used as a dumping ground for defective parts or of marginal quality (knock offs and counterfeit).
Online sources for parts are:
The Online Gun auctions sites like Gunbroker.com or Ebay, which has reversed a policy decision to not allow firearm parts (The ban came shortly after the Virgina Tech shootings), as always "buyer beware" as those venues are also subject to parts dumping.
Numrich Arms, also known as Gun Parts Corporation (http://www.gunpartscorp.com) is the most well known seller of parts, and has parts for a very large selection of firearms manufacturers, both current and defunct.
Jack First is another well known and established source (http://jackfirstgun.com).
In my past experiences, if those 2 places don't have a part, it's going to be a challenge.
Another possible source, the various firearms related internet forums. There are dedicated ones for Ruger, Marlin, S&W as well as a vast array of other gun related forums, all usually have classified section where parts are sold.
pull steering wheel. remove locking plate, you can rent tool from auto supply house to compress plate, there is a spring type ring on shaft, (note there is an aligment slot on locking plate when you put it back on). spring can be removed with screw drivers. remove screw holding turn signal indicator, there are three screws holding turn signal mechanisam, remove emergency flasher switch. you may have to remove buzzer actuator, be careful not to loose black spring that holds it in. there should be a screw that holds switch in.
There is a short in your cars electrical system. More specific...in your blower motor wiring most likely.
Hi I donno if this will help or not? I own a 1998 Mitsubishi 3000 Gt, its just a standard 2 dr hatch front wheel drive. 3.0L SOHC in excellent condition.. when the mileage turned 98,000. On Oct, 10 2004. The owners manual said it was time to change the timing belt, so I had the timing belt and water pump done. I was told it was best to change the water pump at the same time to save me money in the future as a preventive, because of it being labor intensive,Also I did not use after market parts I had to order The O/E parts from Mitsubishi I also had new NGK platuim plugs and Max-Fire plug wires, ECM dyno tuning, emmssion test, engine coolent replaced, with a radiator flush, and the Fuel Injectors inspected and cleaned, the annual 3500 mile oil change and the air-fliter was changed also, the total cost for this tune up at my local speed shop was $790.54. I'll list out the part and labor cost that I was charged so you can get a run down idea ( Samsons Gargage Treated me very well)
1 O/E Timing Belt ..$104.28 1 O/E water pump.( New! not a rebuilt).. $128.88 NGK platuim long life spark plugs (6)..$13,41 -20% discount Max-fire plug wires(Custom color) LTW..$68,00 Prestone coolent...$ 7.00 Air Hog Air filter..$10,83 Parts Total.. $263.80 Dyno Tuning... $149.00 Sub Total.... $412.80 Labor cost ...$320.00 Plus Tennessee State Tax..$57.54 Grand total.. $790.43
Oil change with fliter.No/charge because of amount of work I had done. This does not include the custom work I had done to the brakes, clibers and rotors. that are HP performance from R&R Racing.. Hey a girl has to stop.. I Ivy
There are many factors. First, is if you are doing it or a shop is doing it. The parts will be more expensive at a shop as they get marked up. The cost of running a auto repair shop is crazy and that is reflected in your bill. Second is the quality of parts your using. If you buy cheesball parts like many from autozone (I hate to single out a company, but the failure rate I have seen warrants this opinion)you will spend less money today, but more when you replace them tommorrow. If you buy quality parts they are more expensive today but you won't have to replace them tommorrow. Thirdly, the phrase "Tune-up" varies. What I would consider a complete tune up is this: Profession fuel injection cleaning $70.00, Throttle bore cleaning and air induction service $50.00, Plugs, cap, rotor, wires, pcv valve, air filter, fuel filter -varies depending on car from $200.00 to $1500.00. For example, A 1996 Chevy caprice with a 4.3l motor if I remember right ran around $800.00 for the cap, rotor wires and labor alone. I would guess around $500.00 for you car.
The tune up by the book will run about $600.00 because of the labor. That's what I got quoted by my Mitsubishi dealer.
**A Special Note about Oil & Filter changes -- the Mitsubishi / Stealth 3.0 engines use a Factory oil filter that has a Check Valve built in --- This prevents Dry starts and rapid engine wear, the check valve is NOT in all aftermarket filters.
Is it a boom? If so, then the car is getting too much gas when you start it. Check the fuel injector(s) and the carburator.
If this noise is like a loud ticking at a fast pace, it would be your starter going bad. If the noise is a loud boom/pop sound from the rear of the car, it would possibly be that the exhaust is backfiring..... not sure how to fix that aspect to fix the issue.
experts said to much gas at starting...they all were wrong.car had a old battery..put in a new one and problem fixed
For the first 1600 km's or 1000 miles on a new engine just use regular oil. The reason being is that you want MORE friction in the engine to help the parts wear properly for a good "break in", synthetic oil has such good lubrication properties that it can interfere with proper engine break in.
If you have thick or short arms, get someone else to do the job.
This might be the exception, but most Dodge light trucks with automatic transmission have a crank sensor near the top of the bell housing just to the drivers side of centerline. Unplug the connector from underhood, passenger side (if you can see it) then from underneath the truck remove the 7/16th head bolt from the sensor. You may need a swivel and very long extension to remove this bolt. You may also need to remove the shifter linkage if this vehicle has an automatic transmission; don't forget to set the parking brake.
Once the bolt is removed, you should be able to give the sensor a short twist like a spark plug wire boot, then pull it out.
On the other hand, we might be talking about a 'logical' crank sensor that exists only in PCM software and is created based on cam sensor data from the pickup in the distributor. Either way, really. Can I have another beer now?
What engine do you have? 3.8 v6 engine. fuel pump is behind the power steering pump on the drivers side of the engine. V8 engines the fuel pump is on the passenger side front of the engine Remove any belt driven accesories that would be in the way of the fuel pump. Remove the fuel lines then remove the 2 bolts securing the pump to the engine block.
That's a good one. I would try parking on a level surface. hook up a fuel pressure gauge and a noid light to check for spark. then jack the rear end up to the similar angle you park it on and have the problem. Then crank (turn over means the same) the engine and see what happens. If it doesn't start you will be able to tell if it is spark or fuel that is missing, and trouble shoot from there. I do empathize with the mechanic's feeling regarding the aftermarket warranty company. I truly hate dealing with most of them as they don't want to cover many things that are part of a job,including time to find what is wrong, they want to dictate what they will pay. Getting paid from them is usually a pain, too. I only care to deal with a company called heritage warranty.
Hey Fred==Anything is possible. Just off hand I would say about $10,000 at least would be required to set everything up. I don't know who would do it though. Joe
there is alot to consider 1. motor placement 2. ventilation. you should then put the gas supply in the front and it should be a fuel cell 3. exhaust if you want it to be quiet forgett it cause there will be very little room for mufflers 4. handleing with no weight in the front etc alot to consider
You will need a medium-small Torx driver for the screws that hold the rear light assembly to the car. Start by opening the trunk. Note the latch that the trunk lid attaches to when it is closed, now look left (or right) until the rear of the car rises above the bumper, you will there find the taillight assembly (you may already be able to locate the taillight assembly without this guidance). Once you have located the taillight assembly, look for the three (or so) torx screws that hold it in place, these will be on the black surface that wraps aroundtoward the trunk interior. Remove these screws and put them somewhere where they will not roll away. Once the mounting screw are out, pull the top of the tailight assembly out (away from the car) and lift the bottom of the assembly up. This should free the plastic hooks that are on the bottom of the assembly from the car. There will be several bulb connectors going into the back of the assembly. Your turn signal should be the middle one on the top (top being the top if the assembly were mounted in place). Squeeze the tab of the bulb connector and rotate counterclockwise. This will free the bulb connector from the assembly without the need to remove any wires. Pull the connector out of the hole it is in. You will now see the bulb. To remove the bulb, grasp it and push in while turning counterclockwise. It will turn about 1/5 - 1/4 of a turn before stopping. (It is important to use just enough force to turn the bulb... don't overdo it, the last thing you need is a bulb to break in your fingers and for half of it to be stuck in the connector). When the bulb stops turning you should be able to pull it straight out. At this point note the posts on the side of the metal part of the bulb. One is lower than the other. Note which side of the connector it came out of because when you install the new bulb, it will need to go in the same way. There will be a sort of yellowish grease inside the connector and on the old bulb, don't worry about it, it's supposed to be there. Take the bulb to your local parts store and they will find you a replacement, or you could have already gone to a parts store and told them your year, make, and model, and they will be able to tell you the appropriate bulb. Installation is the reverse of removal. Be sure to pay attention to: 1. the posts on the side of the metal part of the bulb, 2. look at the other bulb connectors on the back of the taillight assembly and insert the bulb connector you are working with rotated a bit counterclockwise from the rest. When it goes right in, then turn it clockwise, 3. when you re-install the taillight assembly insert the plastic tabs on the bottom of the assembly into their appropriate holes before pushing the top into place.
12 volt constant - ORANGE
12 volt acc - YELLOW
Ground - BLACK
Illumination - GRAY
Dimmer - BROWN
Power Antenna - PINK
Left Front + - TAN
Left Front - -GRAY
Right Front + - LIGHT GREEN
Right Front - - DARK GREEN
Left Rear + - BROWN
Left Rear - - YELLOW
Right Rear + - DARK BLUE
Right Rear - - LIGHT BLUE PS: You can get the diagram for any car for free at modifiedlife.com
You have to remove the starter motor to view the sensor position Depends on which engine is fitted 4 cylinder 1.8 petrol is at the front of the engine at the flywheel end.
really crappy pads and a easily ruined rotor...and more bad stuff.. nik
The turn signal flasher module is located to the right of the steering column, almost above the brake and accelerator pedals. To get to it, pull back the right side of the cloth covering the underside of the steering column area. You should then see it in a clip (it will probably be silver and round). The way I found it was to turn on a turn signal (luckily for me it worked sometimes) and follow the sound.
The hazard flasher is a separate module. That one is located to the LEFT of the steering column, roughly where your left knee is when sitting in the driver's seat. To get to it, remove the plastic panel right under the steering column (4 screws). You should then see it in a clip near the front.AnswerIt is located in the dash and IS the caution lamp switch(button). You must, if i remember correctly, remove the dash to be able to disconnect the caution lamp switch.
On top of the steering column. top of the steering wheel
WHEN RAISEING THE HOOD THEIR WILL BE A FUSE BOX ON THE LEFT FRONT FENDER AND IT WILL SAY, ON TOP OF THE BOX FUEL PUMP RELAY, REMOVE COVER BUT CHANCES ARE THIS IS NOT YOUR PROBLEM YOU SHOULD CHECK CHECK FUEL PRESSURE BEFORE YOU DO ANYTHING, TURN KEY ON AND LISTEN FOR HUMM FROM FUEL PUMP IF NO NOISE CHANCES ARE IT IS THE FUEL PUMP HOPE THIS HELPED!! IF YOU DO HAVE NOISE IT IS MORE THAN LIKELY THE FILTER STOPPED UP.
The bulbs just twist out of the back of the headlight assemblys. The Highbeams are easy to access and the low beams are a little more difficult. The tech manual tells you to remove the assembly in order to change them but it is not required. The bulb assembly twists about an eighth of a turn and then pulls out. The wiring harness on each bulb is retained by a plastic clip easily removed with a common screwdriver. Just make sure you don't touch the glass on the new bulb because the oil in your skin will accumulate and create a hot spot causing early failure. I only had to move the cross brace on the drivers side low beam in order to change it.
"Remove this only when cold (caution injury & vehicle damage" It is under your engine intake manifold plenum (the to metal assembly on the engine) almost center of the valve cover on the rear bank (closest to the fire wall). To change this you must rock the engine forward. You may need be able to remove this w/out removing the intake manifold. If you do be very carefull of the spider web thin vacuum lines under the manifold. If you remove the intake manifold you may need to purchase the intake manifold and any other gaskets and seals.
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