I have a 93. Same setup. Start by taking the two fans off. Then the windshield washer tank, then the support bar on the left side, the the two wishbones, then the air cleaner, then take a swivel to get to the back bolt and a normal socket to get to the front one..
In automotive terms it would be what you would open to gain access to the engine compartment.
You're going to have to pull the latch manually. The best bet is to go through the grille with a special tool or fabricate one out of heavy wire. The cable connects to the driver's side of the latch and pulls it open from there.
on the 1994 CUTLASS SUPREME IT IS
ON THE RIGHT SIDE OF THE DASH PANEL
OPEN THE DOOR AND LOOK AT THE SIDE OF THE DASH
THERE IS A PANEL THERE LABELED FUSES
IT IS OBLONG LOOKING
THERE YOU GO ALL OTHER ANSWERS ARE NONSENCE
LIKE LOOK IN THE MANUAL
well if you look buy the shifter there is a piece that is around it you have to remove that peice then you remove two screws that are hard to see but they are under the A/C controls once you take that out the plastic cover that covers everything will be easy from there there are 4 screws the hold the radio bracket in place remove thouse two on each side and you done Here's how I removed the radio in my Altima with very little effort: Park on Nuuanu Avenue near downtown Honolulu where the crackheads congregate just north of Vineyard Avenue. Leave the windows down and the doors unlocked; crackheads are stupid (and on crack), so they may not notice that they don't have to smash the window or screwdriver the lock unless you make it obvious. Procedure takes about fifteen minutes, but it's hard to get a reliable appointment (crackheads don't wear watches), so it's best to leave the car during service hours from about midnight to 5 a.m. Crackheads work for free, but they are kind of messy and sometimes do unexpected extra work like removing your ashtray, or your sunglasses, or your surfboard wax. Yep, surfboard wax. Sometimes they cut themselves and leave blood on your seats, but since they are all in excellent health, there is little chance of HIV, or typhoid, or cholera passing to you. Maybe they will work more neatly if you leave a sandwich and a bottle of Two-Buck Chuck. Anyway, it's a free and effortless method.
Fuel Pump Is In Fuel Tank. This Is Not A Do It At Home Project Suggest Take It To A Garrage. If Not; Be Sure To Disconnect Battery. Raise Rear Of Car, Making Sure That It Is Safe To Work Around And Under. Siphon Gasoline From Tank If You Can. Remove Tank, Careful With Wiring; Remove Old Pump From Tank Suggest You Have New One With You. Note Position Of Sender And Pump. Install As Directed. Reverse All Put In Gasoline. ONE OTHER THING NO FLAME OR SMOKING !!!!!!!!!!!!!!
If it is a manual then maybe the synchro gears in the gearbox are buggered or possibly the gearbox oil is too low, if it is an auto, maybe the torque converter is stuffed, really need to know wether it is manual or auto (or some fancy kinda new gearbox)
The ECM is located under the coolant reserve tank and mounted to the front of the strut tower. Only a single nut holds it in place. once you remove the nut simply pull it out.
Follow the upper radiator hose, where it goes into the housing on the engine, sometimes, you have to remove the water pump on these critters to replace the thermostat.
the starter on a 96 cavy should be to the right of the exhaust manifold when looking down on the engine. the starter if you pop the hood and it is on the bottom side in the front where the engine and transmition bolt together
You are probably having the same problem I'm having right now. My relay is located under the hood on the fire wall. If your car is like mine you will see a group of relay (5 I think) the one you is looking for is the second one from the left.
I have the same car- I'm not sure exactly what you mean by the fuse diagram. The fuse panel is located inside the glove box to the left. Each fuse location is clearly identified for tail lights, wipers, etc. The only one that appears to be missing is the fuse receptacle for the blower fan ( even though it is indicated in writing on the panel). You might have to order a trouble shooting guide for your make or model or just call a dealer's part Dept. and ask them. Good luck.
Is it a boom? If so, then the car is getting too much gas when you start it. Check the fuel injector(s) and the carburator.
If this noise is like a loud ticking at a fast pace, it would be your starter going bad. If the noise is a loud boom/pop sound from the rear of the car, it would possibly be that the exhaust is backfiring..... not sure how to fix that aspect to fix the issue.
experts said to much gas at starting...they all were wrong.car had a old battery..put in a new one and problem fixed
The relay that handles the turn signals is separate from the relay that handles the hazards.
Most likely you have a burned out turn signal relay. Most likely the relay is located in your fuse panel and is a very inexpensive item to replace.
turn signals and hazards have separate flasher cans both look the same and are generally in the fuse box replace the hazard flasher can. they cost about 2 dollars at auto store
There may be a lamp with one of the turn signal elements burned out. If one is burned out turn signals may not work even though the lamp appears to be working when the lights are on.
Otherwise replace emergency flasher or possibly turn signal switch in steering wheel.
I had the same problem on my 2003 Saturn L200. When I cycled the Hazard Signal/switch for about 30 seconds, both left and right turn signals once again worked!!
Probably about 7.5 to 8 sec in stock form.
No such thing... haha someone's probally playing with you... it's like a flux capacitor or muffler bearing it's something that doesn't exist
should be on the passanger front of engine, three screws. just pull.
The MAF sensor is always located in the air duct between the air filter and the throttle
I'm a retired ASE Master/L-1 Technician. I still keep current with the latest automotive technology. Visit my blog for cool articles and TSB's:
Remove the alternator and the bracket that holds the alternator to the engine. You can then 'reach' in there to get to the back plugs. It's difficult to do but I found this to be the only way I could do it on my old '90 Grand Prix.
Make sure the engine is cold before you change the plugs - DON'T STRIP THE THREADS IN THE HEAD by getting in a hurry. Park it overnight with the hood up in the garage or let it sit outside with the hood unlatched to cool.
I have a 96 grand am 3.1 liter, and I don't need to remove the alternator to change the rear 3 plugs. What I do is remove the small air duct running from the alternator to where the hood meets the windshield. It should come off pretty easily. It has rubber ends which slide onto the alternator, and the vent by the windshield that it hooks up to. After that, disconnect all of the electrical plugs that meet up aroud the same spot that the air duct was and move them out of the way. In my experience, this has provided me with enough room to get a ratchet in there and remove the plugs. Try to use a socket specifically made for spark plugs, or you will spend a lot of time trying to get the plug in the hole. The spark splug socket has a rubber grip on it to hold on to the plug while you position it. If you don't do this, you will likely end up dropping the plug into the little area surrounding the plug hole, and it takes forever to get it out to try again. Also, when removing the old plugs, try to remember the angle that they went in on because you can't really see back there. It makes it a lot easier when inserting the new plugs if you get in there at the correct angle.
I agree with answer #2. I removed the same rubber attachment from the alternator and repositioned some wires. You really can't see anything down there so it is all done by feel. I got by with the spark plug socket, a knuckle/pivot socket and a few different extensions. The hardest part is finding the hole with the new plug, you can't even feel it with your finger it's so far back. Like he said, remember the angle and just feel around with the new plug.
I took the dogbones off and pulled the motor forward to make more rrom to reach the plugs. Takes time but works. bratt
Could be immobilizer damage, reversing the polarity on modern cars can cause the electronics to fry. Its possible to cross the starter switch wire out to see if engine will start when cranked,if so then its the starter blown but please be aware that you need to know what you are doing to do this as crossing any wires needs to be done by qualified engineer to save electrical or personal damage. Hope this helps
There is a bolt underneath the power steering pump that secures it from moving. It is on the opposite side of the pulley. (There are two bolts in that position, the lower one is the one you want.)
Loosen that and your pump should pivot freely.
Yes, it's located under your glove box. 1st open glove box and then pull out
molded box sleeve. No tools require for this action...