It is probably the heat shield that is between the converter and the bottom of the car. It does what the name. They can be a pain to fix properly. I have always tried fixing mine but the "rattling" noise would always return sooner or later. I ended up taking mine off. Plus these heat shields get old and tend to vibrate relentlessly. Best best is to have someone you know take a look and see what they can do.
Yes it is, and it can cost anywere from $80.00 to $200.00 to fix.
It is also possible that the ceramic compount "honeycomb" in the catalytic converter is breaking apart and/or broke loose inside the converter. If this is the case, you *might* fail emissions but it shouldn't hurt anything (other than failing emissions).
just buy a clamp for your heatsheild.. its the cheapest and easiest fix.
I fixed my heatshield with a screw gun and some self tapping screws . The shield is spotwelded in place. Find the areas that have came loose and screw, I used 3/8 inch panheads that where galvinized, they hold up to the heat very well and I hav'nt had anymore problems. I did this 2yrs ago and have had no problems.
DOUBLE WISHBONE suspension is the simplest, most effective way to maintain a constant camber angle in an independent suspension. The problem with using a torsion bar suspension (such as that featured on the Datsun 240Z) or a swing axle suspension (As on the original Volkswagen Beetle) is that the camber, or the angle at which the plane of the wheel meets the ground, changes as the wheel moves up and down. This leads to inconsistent handling. While it is not a major factor in small cars moving at low speeds, especially with narrow, rounded tires, in larger vehicles and with more rubber, it becomes a serious liability as grip changes radically with tire motion. Double wishbone suspension solves this problem by using a parallelogram design. There is an A-arm or a similar link at the top and of the hub carrier (or suspension upright), to which the wheel is mounted. The slope of the line described by the mounts on the upright remains the same as the slope of the line described by the mounts attached to the chassis. This keeps camber constant. As in other types of suspension, the links consist either of a bushing, usually made of rubber or polyethlene, and sometimes filled with a fluid, or a ball joint. Typically, you will only find ball joints on the wheel side of the A-arms, and furthermore only on wheels involved with steering (usually the front, but some cars do have four wheel steering.) There is another type of suspension which performs the same function, known as a multilink suspension. Instead of using two suspension members, such a system may use as many as five links. This reduces weight and allows mounting in different locations, saving considerable space, and is especially useful on small cars. Double Wishbone suspension may be used on both the front and rear suspension. Depicted here is an inequal-length double wishbone suspension: _____________ / \ | Tire | | | |_ _| Upper Link / A-Arm | \_________/ | ____________ __ Mount Wheel | _/ | / \ `--/ \ Point ----> |/ ___|__\__/[[User:22.214.171.124|126.96.36.199]] 18:50, 7 Aug 2007 (UTC)-,___ | | <------ |_\ / ______| `~-\__/ |X|______/ / | |X | | |X | <---- Hub Carrier / Upright |X | | |X | | Lower Link / A-Arm |X|`----- \ |__ |X| \ \/ \`\____________,------. \ \__/. / \ | \ \____| `------------,__\___/ | \________/ | |_/ \_| | | | Tire | \_____________/ OOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO OOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO OOOOOOOOO [[User:188.8.131.52|184.108.40.206]]OOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO [[User:220.127.116.11|18.104.22.168]] 18:50, 7 Aug 2007 (UTC)~ Ground [[User:22.214.171.124|126.96.36.199]] 18:50, 7 Aug 2007 (UTC)[[User:188.8.131.52|184.108.40.206]] 18:50, 7 Aug 2007 (UTC)~ Originally, the upper and lower suspension members were always the same length, but this leads to "scrubbing", or the lateral motion of tires across the road surface. This is because as the tire moves up or down, the distance between the mounting location for the inner link and the center of the wheel decreases. To solve this problem, the inequal-length double wishbone was created. This instead slightly increases camber when the wheel moves up, which will happen when it is loaded, and decreases it when it moves down. For example, if you make a right turn, the body rolls left. The suspension on the left side moves upward, increasing camber to maximize the grip from your tires. The suspension on the right side moves downward, decreasing camber, but since the body has rolled, the camber of the right side increases to the same degree as it has increased on the left side. Your camber remains the same on both sides of the vehicle, and rather than the tire moving sideways, it simply changes camber, which in this one case is actually beneficial. You can minimize body roll with a sway bar, which is simply a torsion bar which can be added to any kind of suspension.
The same air pressure is applied to both air bags so they should lift the same amount, however when the weight in the car is removed and the ride height is too high, the control unit opens the solenoids to vent some air. If the control unit only sends the vent signal to one solenoid or the wiring to one of the solenoids is bad, then only one would vent so the other side would stay high. Check wiring and connecters. If the air system is ok, it will still lean if of the car is heavier on one side or if one of the front springs is weak or broken. These are just guesses and I am assuming the limo is the same the cars I am familiar with. .
If the car does not have "air ride", Look for a broken spring, low tire pressure or a bad strut.
A broken Leaf spring would cause it to lean to one side.
Depending on what type of suspension you have (torsion bars, coil springs, solid axle,leaf spring, etc. It could be a worn spring( leaf or coil), broken torsion bar, or a broken steering knuckle .
The suspension spring absorbs energy and reduces vertical acceleration of wheel.
The damper stops the motion of the mass-spring system which would otherwise keep oscillating.
A bump stopper or jounce bumper or... there are hundred other names to this rubber / PU piece, prevents metal-to-metal contact and thereby the 'clang' produced when spring becomes solid.
A ball joint is a spherical headed screw. The head is inserted into a dome and the screw can articulate in a conical envelope when the dome is fixed.
A control arm or wishbone is schematically a triangular suspension link where one vertex is a ball joint (upper or lower) and the opposite side is a hinge joint. These link controls the wheel path when it articulates. There is usually an upper control arm and a lower control arm.
A shock absorber or coil-over-shox is a unit in which spring & bump stopper are arranged concentric (rather coaxial) with the damper to save space required for separate installation of each.
A strut is a coil-over-shox with additional degrees of freedom for steering the wheel (provided by a bearing which partially replaces a ball joint) and articulation of the wheel (provided by the top mount which doubles in as the upper wishbone / control arm).
A strut is thus, a combination of a number of suspension components viz. spring, damper, bump stopper, upper control arm and probably one ball joint.
A strut and a coil-over-shox are not interchangable. If you put a simple coil-over-shox in place of strut, you won't be able to steer the vehicle and if you do otherwise, the directional stability will be lost. A strut is usually used in front suspension and a coil-over-shox is generally a part of rear suspension.
then check wheel balance
It could be your alignment. If it's off it shakes.
If the vibration is from about 45 mph and faster the tires are out of balance or bad.
If its vibrating at a slower speed you have a bad suspension part and if it vibrates at idle you need a diagnostic and possibly a tune-up.
First check the balance of your tires. This is the cheapest scenario. Then the suspension and allignment.
you could also have a separated or broken belt in the tire
1. Loosen the lug nuts on the wheel.
2. Jack up car and support with jackstands.
3.Remove lug nuts and remove wheel.
4.Remove brake line bracket from strut. Unplug ABS sensor harness.
5.Mark strut-to knuckle bolts on strut and mark strut to steering knuckle on knuckle.
6. Separate strut from steering knuckle.
7.Support strut and remove the 3 strut upper mounting bolts (from engine compartment).
8.Remove strut assembly from car.
"rears" 3 mount nuts in trunk for each strut - loosen
remove sway bar link from strut
pinch bolt on spindle housing loosen (careful likes to break) use heat "or" penetrating oil if necessary
Special tool is nice but a big pry bar and hammer will work to separate strut from spindle housing
"becareful of brake lines and abs sensors" will have to loosen support points
"fronts" same thing but mount nuts under hood
reverse procedure and have alignment done
Answer to revised question
Just by quick struts. It saves time and well worth the money.
Quick strut: NEW Strut, Spring, Strut mount, Spring pads already assembled and ready to put in. jaybird1980Answer
there are three bolts on each side there in the trunk of the car centre of the wheel and there are to at the bottiom of the strut jack up the car and brace it good ( on stands )
On the sable, you have springs/struts, not shocks. Pretty much the only reason you should replace is if a spring is cracked or the strut is leaking (or something in the mounting is broken). A lot of shops will tell you they are even if they aren't. Get a second opinion. But this is a huge issue on sables...
If you do need to replace them, do not attempt them yourself... unless you have a hydraulic lift and a torch. They're buggers to get off, really, and you don't want to be banging that car while on jack stands. It's hard work and if you get stuck in the job at home w/o the right equipment, you're pretty much up a creek.
The cheapest route by far is to order a "quick strut" from monroe. Half the money you get charged is for mechanic's time disassembling and re- the whole mess (again, don't do yourself unless you are very handy and have the right equipment. A stray spring could kill you). Quick struts come as one assembled unit, spring and strut, and just need to be installed. Make sure to replace them in pairs. With parts and labor you should be paying around $500. If higher, you're getting scammed. Cheers.
There are three nuts on the top of the strut that are barely accessible from inside the trunk, one small bolt that holds a brake line bracket, one very long swaybar link bolt, and one large bolt at the bottom that tightens a clamp onto the strut tube.
Remove the small bolt, the long bolt, and the big bolt, and you should be able to slide the clamp down the strut tube far enough to clear the end. Then remove the three nuts from the top and pull out the old strut. Installation is the reverse.
Things to watch out for?
Rust. Both of the big clamp bolts on this car were so rusty, the heads snapped off when I was trying to turn them out, even with PB Blaster and torch heat liberally applied. I spent an hour working the second one back and forth, trying to keep it from breaking. I got it to come out about 3/4 of an inch, and then it snapped. I ended up just blowing the bolts out with the cutting torch and putting in a similarly-sized grade 8 bolt and locking nut. The swaybar link bolts also snapped off, but those are much easier to remove.
Corroded brake lines. One of the brake lines was rotted enough to start leaking as soon as I flexed it a little, that still needs replacing. I have the leak stopped at the proportioning valve on the rear axle, but for the moment there's no RR brake.
Proceed with caution, or save yourself the trouble and push it into a lake.
Worn steering or suspension parts. This can be very dangerous, so have this repaired ASAP.
Well, if you're experiencing a lot of bouncing when you go over bumps, it's time for new shocks. Excessive leaning in turns can be an indicator too. The old rule of thumb, is to push down hard on the fender (in your case, the rear fender) and let go after it goes as far down as it's going to. If it bounces up and down more than once or twice, it's time for new shocks. FriPilot
First off, find a repair facility that has an alignment machine. When u replace tie rods, u have changed the alignment specs and will need to bring back into those specs once u remove and reinstall the new one. Count the number of turns to get the old unit off of the inner tie rod, that way u will be close to the old specs and then get alignment performed or u will chew up your tires pretty fast.
This is not a DIY job unless you have the proper tools. Severe injury can occur. Pay an expert to do it.
While removing the shock assembly from the coil spring is something that is dangerous and requires special tools and instructions. I just replaced all four struts on my 1999 Grand Prix with the Monroe Quick Strut. It comes fully assembled and it's just a matter of removing the wheels and a few bolts and putting the new ones in. Pretty straightforward for a DIY'er with some simple hand tools.
Hydraulic and gas charged shocks have the same amount of oil, the difference is the gas charge.
A hydraulic shock has equal amounts of dampening force in both directions. Gas charged shocks usually are pressurized with Nitrogen. Hydraulic shocks have a tendency to fade as the oil heats up and gets agitated by the shock, creating air bubbles. These air bubbles cause the shocks dampening ability to fade. The nitrogen charge keeps the air bubbles under control, so they can not affect the shocks performance. A gas shock will extend on its own due to the gas charge.
General rule of thumb is that hydraulic shocks ride better, nitrogen charged shocks are stiffer, but last longer and don't have shock fade problems.
Front Struts Removal
1. Remove Hubcap of Strut you want to replace first, either passenger side or driver side
2. "Loosen" do not remove Lug nuts on tire.
3. Place jack underneath cross-member of vehicle or just a secure, hard surface underneath car.
4. Put Emergency Brake on
5. Place Blocks of wood behind the three tires not being jacked.
6. Jack up car until tire can move freely left-right, and spins.
7. Remove Lug nuts/Tire.
8. Using Pliers or a Flathead screwdriver remove brake line retaining clip.
9. Using 17mm socket and wrench remove the two strut bolts and nuts.
10. Pop Hood, Using 15mm socket remove 2 out of the 3 nuts securing the top of the strut to the car.
11. Now the next step is most easily accomplished with a partner, but can be done solo. While Holding bottom half of strut remove the last top nut securing the strut to the car, once nut is removed you can completely remove the strut.
Doctors define shock as "circulatory collapse," when blood pressure dips too low to maintain an adequate supply of blood to the body's tissues. Symptoms include cold and sweaty skin, weak and rapid pulse, irregular breathing, dry mouth, dilated pupils, and reduced flow of urine.
I'll translate that for you guys down here.
Symptoms translation: it means your blood pressure drops too low to get the blood going through your body. your body gets cold and you sweat alot, your pulse (heart-beat) gets really fast and weak, so if you put your fingers to their rist to feel their pulse (heart-beat) you can barely feel it but its really fast.
You breath either realy fast, or you take quick breathes and then slow breathes.
This one is easy 'your mouth gets dry' an example is: no saliva in your mouth.
Your pupil would get really big.
And last is that you either dont have to pee as much, or you cant pee.
Check wirh your local auto supply house. 08-22-2007 - I just bought a pair of front struts for my 1995 VW Cabrio and paid $59.95 each for them for a total of $132.11 including NC tax for the pair. This was at Advance Auto Parts in eastern North Carolina. Their catalog also showed Bilstein brand high performance struts for about $300.00 each! The ones I bought are probably produced by an OEM supplier, that is, it is produced as a stock replacement for the original struts that came with the car when new and probably to the same specifications. The price I paid is probably as low as can be found. I do not know if re-manufactured units are available.
open the drivers door turn on the ignition or start the car then close the door...this will reset the computer relay to the compressor........i know this works for a fact i have had3 mark viii'sAnswerI've been told to shut it off at the switch in the trunk and then disconnect the battery for a little while. Then reconnect the battery and turn the switch back on. I haven't had to do it myself so this is untried for me. AnswerIf the Check Air Ride message comes up, you likely have a failed compressor, or a leaking air spring. There is a lot of information, including the directions on how to replace the front air spring/shock modules at www.markviii.org. There's also a troubleshooting FAQ here: http://www.markviii.org/psjs_faqs/04051030.shtml Answer
press the red button in the same door as the air ride on off switch in the trunk
There is no certain mileage - it all depends on your driving conditions and how you drive the vehicle. If it spends its life on paved roads - a long time. If it is continually driven on rough terrain - sooner than usual. Ask a mechanic to check them for you if you are unable to tell yourself.
It makes the hinge more rigid and keeps it from buckling backwards when the wheel hits bumps. Don't even think about driving if it is missing!
tire off, remove the 2 17mm bolts with nuts, then under the hood there is 3 bolts on each side in the strut area. you need some type of compression device. if you are not aware of this type of tool, i would ask to be shown by a tech. this type of compression power released is capible of almost or possible killing you if you get struck by a spring. the strut and spring come out as one peice until the top 17mm bolt combining them both is unhinged You wouldn't be able to without special equipment to remove the springs. Go to http://protege5.ugly.net/02-13.PDF That's the manual with instructions for removing struts. I believe the P5 shares many parts with Protege. At least you'll get a rough idea what you're dealing with.
You may not necessarily need them, but it would be aggravating to have to pull them apart again 6 months from now. If it were me, I would change the mounts and the springs while they are out, especially if you have more than 100,000 miles. If you hear a clunk while hitting bumps, or if the center metal piece of the mount comes loose easily after removal from the strut, the mount is probably finished- replace it.
on the drivers side you remove the kick panel if i remember right and the three nuts on the top plate can be gotten with various wrenches. the passenger side is accesed through the glovebox. theres an access panel inside that's a little difficult to identify but now you know what youre looking for. the bottom section is the same as any other car, just be careful of the abs wires.
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