Steering and Suspension

Steering and suspension work together for a safe and comfortable driving experience. Steering minimizes the amount of force needed when turning the car’s wheels; whereas suspension maximizes the friction between the wheels and the ground.

3,872 Questions
Steering and Suspension

Which action may cause the loss of steering ability in a PWC?

Letting off the throttle control

Auto Parts and Repairs
Steering and Suspension
Chevy Tahoe
Ford F-150

What causes a shaky steering wheel?

Here are opinions and answers from contributors:

  • Tires out of balance or the "bushings" (not sure the technical term) are worn in the steering system.
  • It could be faulty steering dampers. This is a shock that crosses from left to right connecting to tie rod ends. The shock is very firm and you will not be able to actuate it by hand if working properly. usually causes left to right steering oscillation at low to mid speeds.
  • Warped brake rotors for cars with front disk brakes. The rotor hits the caliper every tire rotation causing a small bump in the steering wheel each time.
  • Your tires might need to be rotated and balanced.
  • In my "94" Intrepid it was worn out rubber isolaters which the bolts on the rack & pinion steering mounted through on the firewall. It was noticed at speeds over 35mph & resulted in feeling a violent shaking of the front tires felt through the steering wheel.
  • Check tires should be balanced, alingned or probably a bent front tire.
  • Most of the time its only bad front tires now the one guy was right it can be bad brake rotors but what he didnt tell you is there is 2 things for that 1 is the steering wheel shaking when you are braking if so then you have warped rotors another thing when you brake does the car pull to the right or the left if so that will determine what rotor is bad and for but if it doesnt shake while braking that could mean your tires are cupped in the front or there not balanced properly.
  • Depends when the wheel shakes. If it is during braking then your rotors are warped. If it is durinig normal driving then yes it could be bent rim, loose/worn suspension components. A balance problem is usually indicated by vibration in the vehicle not usually a shaky steering wheel. It may also be that the steering gear is badly worn which causes greater than normal spaces between the meshing parts.
  • Out of balance wheels, bent rim, shifted belt in tire or other defect in tire including irregular wear (tire rotation under these conditions will on move the vibration felt), loose lug nuts, worn inner tie rod end bushings like mentioned on Chrysler product above, loose mounted or internal play in the rack and pinion steering gear. Wheel Alignment or Front end Alignment will not cause a vibration.
  • CV joint could cause this.
  • Or a bent rim, which balancing will not fix.
  • Check the lug nuts on all your tires. That did it for me.
  • Shaking could also occur from camber being ofset as well as all! The other answers given above.
  • Just had the same thing and it turned out to be worn struts which had caused my tire to wear unevenly (flattening one side of the tire). That caused shimmy at higher speeds.
  • Also try new CV boots or a driveshaft replacement
Car Shaking Problems
Steering and Suspension
Ford Focus
VW Golf

Steering wheel shaking?

Get your tires balanced and/or check the lug nuts.

Car Shaking Problems
Steering and Suspension
Wheel Alignment and Balancing

Why would the steering wheel wobble?

Steering Wheel WobbleI'm no expert, however, you can check the following: brake pads could be uneven, the rotor might be damaged or worn uneven, a bent rim, an out-of-round tire, or you could be correct regarding the wheel alignment. Best of luck.

Here are more opinions and answers from other contributors:

  • Your front brake rotors are probably warped. You can either replace the rotors, or, if the rotors are only slightly warped, and there is enough material left on them, the mechanic may be able to be cut them down with a machine. Cutting them down should even the rotors out. The same thing was going on with my steering wheel as yours when I applied my brakes at high speeds, and even lower speeds. I didn't tell the dealer that I was experiencing this problem. They simply inspected my brakes one day while my car was in for an oil change and told me I needed new brake pads and to have my brake rotors cut. Since I had about 80,000 miles on that set of brake pads (yes ... 80,000 miles) I took their word for it that I needed a brake job. Luckily I didn't destroy my rotors with my nearly worn out brake pads. If you don't need new rotors, installing front brake pads and cutting the rotors should cost you a about $130 at the dealer, and maybe a little less at your local mechanic. I've noticed absolutely zero shaking of the steering wheel when I apply the brakes since the brake job. I have a Toyota Camry with 120,000 miles on it and the car now brakes beautifully. So before you spend money on an alignment, and trying to figure out if your wheel rims are bent, check those brakes.
  • Try taking the car to the problem speed and while pulling the e-brake release lever, apply the ebrakes. No vibration - problem is in the fronts (typical). Buy new rotors (pads are a good idea at the same time as is adjusting the rear brakes). Rarely can you machine rotors and have a permanent solution. The rotors are not dissapating the heat well, by cutting them they will warp easier. Check your tire balance. (Have you ever put fix a flat in?) Toyotas are sometimes an exception to brakes that go for more than 35,000 miles.
  • You need to balance your tires.
  • I have found that my problem stems from rear axle placement. A factory installation defect that is only covered under the first 12,000 miles and only if the dealer deems it to be out of spec. For all you Ford Ranger owners alot of the 2000 models have feathered tire issues which would make you think it is simply tire balance (right front wears and pulls right, some F150's have this problem as well). Located an alignment shop to verify proper axle placement.
  • Have your tie rods checked to be sure they don't need replacing.
  • Have you had your rear brakes adjusted ever since changed: warped rotors in my 95 cavalier made the whole car wobble at high speed stops and the pedal pressure changes during slow light stopping also
  • The wobbling or pulsating steering happens when I apply the brakes when trying to slow down after accelerating to a reasonably height speed like 50 to 60 miles an hour. My mechanic found that my rotors were warped and some of the steering mechanisims (parts ) were badly worn which was very unusual because the vehicle has only 11,000 miles on it. Hopefully this will be all taken care of because it's under warranty.
  • Brakes warped, tie rod ends bad, tires screwed, upper and or lower ball joints shot, in front wheel drives, check cv shaft/joints... and theres one I experienced on an old ford pick up... never would have guessed, under braking conditions the steering wheel was shaking bad.... turned out to be in the rear end... the rear wheel bearings were shot.... it only was bad while braking.
  • If it is a vibration in your steering wheel at higher speeds you might need new ball joints. This is a serious problem if that is what's wrong. So have your car looked at and soon.
  • There is also the possibility that your shocks and struts are in need of replacing. Sometimes just replacing the ball joints doesn't fix the problem. If that is affected then there is most likely something else affected. In this case I had multiple problems with my 1993 Grand Am and it was bent rims, worn shocks and struts along with worn ball joints. Once I had them all replaced the shaking steering wheel at any speed is gone. Plus your tires could be separating so check that as well that could be a cause as well.
Auto Parts and Repairs
Belts and Fluids
Steering and Suspension
Brake Fluid and Lubrication

What happen if you only put a little bit of brake fluid in the power steering reservoir?

Not as bad as putting a little bit of power steering fluid in the brake reservoir, but I would have the power steering system flushed just the same. Problems wouldn't happen soon but in the long term they will.

Steering and Suspension
Ford Windstar
Ford Escort

How do you change the front wheel bearing on a 1995-1997 Windstar?

the front wheel bearing for the windstar comes as a complete hub assembly. you have to remove the brake caliper,rotor,and axel. then remove the 3 12mm 12 point bolts holding the assembly on the spindle. beat the old hub and bearing out with a hammer and install the new one !

Note: Not all bearing have that 3-bolt connect. If yours DOES, consider yourself lucky! If it doesn't, you'll likely have to take the knuckle to a machine shop and have them press it out & in.

Note: Had trouble with hub after being pressed,as axle would not tighten up enough to hold in place...Suggest replacing half-axle (easy and cheap) if hub does not tighten down and stay tight. Had to have my hub pressed TWICE before I caught on.

The trans axle must be removed from the steering knuckle. Loosen trans axle nut and remove wheel. Remove brake caliper and disc. Disconnect the stabilizer bar link at top or bottom. Disconnect lower ball joint steering knuckle at pinch bolt and pry lower arm down out of joint. Remove the trans axle nut. A puller is required to push the trans axle through the hub. Remove wheel hub from bearing by prying at the front and hammer and punch from the rear. Clean and remove the bearing"C" clip at rear. Punch the bearing out towards the engine. Install new bearing in the reverse order. Note: A torch may be required to remove bearing from steering knuckle. Most difficult parts are removing hub and removing bearing.

I did mine without punching or torch by using a regular machine shop press. Just remove the hub assembly off the vehicle (one additional bolt IIRC)to remove from the previous comment in this thread, and setup on said press, use a round dummy of right size and old one slides out, new one slides in. Ben

They changed the design on this at some time. Your may press in, or it may use a 3 bolt system. Either way, you DO have to take the knuckle off. If you're not mechancially inclined, or you don't have significant upper-body strength (you, not the car), take it to a pro.

First one I did, took about 4 hours. Had the Ford dealer machine shop press it out & in (took them 30 minutes - they said sometimes they stick pretty bad). After $30 to the shop, and $50 for a new bearing, total cost $80. They said they'd do the whole thing for $150.

So the NEXT time one went (different Windstar, what can I say, I like 'em), I said to myself "No way I'm laying on the garage floor, screwing with that knuckle, etc, for a lousy $70" I took it to the dealer and let them fight with it. Best $70 I ever spent!!!!

The fronts are pressed into the hub assembly and better off to use a mechanic shop for that. The rears are very easy on that model - 2 piece bearing + seal, grease and torque to stop then back off till turn easy... install new cotter pin.

This is not easy . Get a manual on your car and it will have pictures and everything.

The step-by-step procedures are detailed & illustrated in's free online Chiltons repair guide - See "Related Links" below.


  • the steering knuckle needs to be completely removed from the vehicle - overall not such a bad under-taking.
  • The new bearing needs to be pressed into the steering knuckle - be sure to check the auto parts stores if they'll be able to handle that part of the process for you.
  • This is a good time to check the condition of the axle; CV joint boots; tie rod ends; lower ball joints; control arm bushings; stabilizer bar links; brake pads, etc. Since it's completely apart, easy enough to put it back together with new parts & save lots of time & effort in future repairs.

Yes the front wheel bearing for your ford winstar is pressed in with a hydraulic press.

Car Sounds
Car Starting Problems
Steering and Suspension
Power Steering

Why would the power steering make noise even after fluid has been added?

Power steering noiseWhen the fluid is low and you add some, it may still need more after you run it for awhile. The reason is that as the pump pumps the fluid through the lines, this also normally pushes any air out the lines. Keep filling and checking after you start the car and turn the wheel from side to side all the way.
  • The bigger question is why do you need to add fluid? After you locate and fix that leak, you can address the whine. If it is a Ford, it may be somewhat normal. Like Drazi said, "It may be air trapped in the line." Or the pump may be damaged from running it dry, or there is bilge in the line, starving the pump. Let's assume you have kept up on the maintenance and have flushed the fluid when it was dirty. Let's also assume that the pump is not damaged and you have found and fixed any leaks. Try this: pull the fluid out of the reservior and add one bottle of Lucas brand power steering additive, and top with power steering fluid. I have found this stuff pretty good at resolving many power steering problems. I'm not a big supporter of "Snake Oil", but have had good luck with it.
  • If it's a Ford, it's because they use plastic parts in their casings, though most other car companies do the same. If that's not the case, then your pump is receiving too much stress from turning. Try lubing up the chassis and changing the fluid completely. It wouldn't hurt to check your lines either. Sometimes blockage can cause too much stress on the pump too.
  • First thing is why are you adding fluid. If it has a leak, then I would address that problem first. A pump will not bleed air out of the system if it is leaking. If everything seems to be okay and your pump still whines, then replace the pump, preferably with a new one from the dealer. The so-called rebuilt pumps that you can buy from places like Autozone, O'Reilly, etc. are cheaply rebuilt, especially if it's a Ford. They don't bleed out air properly, resulting in improper pump pressures. A good pump will bleed out almost immediately, with the turn of the wheel a few times. If it doesn't, then your pump will more than likely never completely bleed out. Buy a new pump from the dealer--it costs more, but if you're like me and don't like the noise, then it's worth it.
  • You probably have air trapped in the power steering fluid system. Bleed the air out by revving the engine to about 1500-2000 rpms and turning the steering wheel almost all the way from one side to the other a few times. This should bleed out the air and take care of your problem.
  • If the noise is similar to that of a dry bearing, then the problem is probably the power steering pump itself. If the noise you hear has a "click, click, click" to it when you make turns in your vehicle, then the problem is more-than-likely your CV joints. If the noise is screeching, check your belt for wear-and-tear and proper tension (see owner's manual), and the pulleys that the belt turns, including the air conditioning compressor motor and its clutch/pulley.

I just wanted to add another two cents about the topic of bleeding or burping the power steering system:

1. Know what type of power steering fluid is needed for your car. Some power steering pumps can use automatic transmission fluid, others have specific power steering fluid for each car, i.e. Honda requires and suggests that you use Honda's brand of power steering fluid (see owner's manual). Make sure you know, or the warranty from the dealership or from the parts store may be voided.

2. Before attaching the power steering belt, fill pump with required amount and type of fluid (see owner's manual), and then turn the pulley wheel by hand a few times. This helps cut down on dry turns before they can happen. If more power steering fluid is needed, fill accordingly.

3. Attach the power steering belt with proper amount of tension (see owner's manual).

4. Turn vehicle on and proceed to turn the steering wheel all the way right and left 3-4 times.

5. Turn the vehicle off, and examine that the belt tension is acceptable, and again check the level of fluid and fill accordingly.

6. Always, always check your owner's manual before performing any maintenance on your vehicle. An educated car owner is a safe car owner!

Another possibilityHow long has the pump run without fluid? There could be damage inside to the cam and rotor (assuming it's a vane type pump), or to the plates, or it could be cavitating due to the ingress of air -- possibly why the fluid leaked out in the first place.

I too experienced very loud whining noise from my 93 Ranger 3.0's power steering pump at idle, and even louder when turning the steering wheel even a little bit in either direction. I changed the fluid but there was no change in noise. I read in a Ranger forum that if you add some STP oil treatment (yes, STP OIL TREATMENT), not the whole can, it would help. I decided to give it a try and sure enough it has reduced the noise greatly. It didn't completely eliminate it but people no longer stare at my vehicle at red lights because of the noisy pump. That was embarrassing! Ford's pump must be partly to blame since the problem is so rampant among all their various models.

By the way, Mercury is supposed to begin being phased out (discontinued) beginning in 2010 and completely gone by 2012. Only Ford and Lincoln will remain. Just thought ya'll might want to know that since your Mercury's value will likely plummet as that kill-off nears. However, those of you who have a stiffy for Mercs may get a good deal on one before they are gone. I personally don't think they are "all that". Fords in general are pretty low market in build and longevity. I used to favor GM but switched to Honda products in the 90s, they are very long-lived. My latest is a Jaguar and I'm quite happy with it. Yes I know they were owned by Ford and now by Tata Motors but the design is all Jag.

Cars & Vehicles
Steering and Suspension

What is a control arm bumper for?

The control arm is attached to your front wheels and a pivot point attached to the frame, when your wheel hits a bump or hole, the wheel moves up and down via the shocks, the bumper keeps the control arm from slamming against the frame, destroying your wheel alignment along with the tire and wheel well

Steering and Suspension
Power Steering
Metal and Alloys

Where is the power steering module on a 05 cobalt?

I believe it's located underneath the steering wheel. If you take off the panel just behind the steering wheel (pull hard, but be careful of the wire connected to the trunk release button inside the coin box) you should be able to see it easily. It's a black box, about 4" x 4" or so that says "Koyo" on it and you can see a little piece of a computer chip popping out the top righthand side. Hope this helps!

I believe it's located underneath the steering wheel. If you take off the panel just behind the steering wheel (pull hard, but be careful of the wire connected to the trunk release button inside the coin box) you should be able to see it easily. It's a black box, about 4" x 4" or so that says "Koyo" on it and you can see a little piece of a computer chip popping out the top righthand side.

Steering and Suspension
Antique & Classic Cars

How do you remove rear leaf spring bushings on 67 camaro?

If you have access to a press, pressing them out would be the best way. You will need the spring removed from the car. Another way (but messy) is to burn the rubber out of the bushing then remove the steel collar with a hammer and chisel. But installing them would be best done with a press.

Burning the rubber out is the easiest way to remove the bushings if you do not have air tools. Depending on where you live this is a very hostile environment and the leafs have been down there for a long time. People in dry states usually have a better time at this but for those in the midwest and other rust belt states you could be asking for trouble. The perch that the leafs sits in (front) is usually very rusty and held together just for the fact the leafs are still there. So be prepared for this malady when you get ready to change them. when the leafs are down the new ones can be located by the pin location on the new set of leafs. just set them in the pin hole and bolt them up. Do the front first and then go to the rear keeping in mind that a jack my be needed to raise the rear of the leaf to the shackle. Good luck!

Cars & Vehicles
Car Shaking Problems
Steering and Suspension

Why would car wobble but not steering wheel?

More than likely your tires need balanced. or you have a cord busted in a tire. Bent rim could cause it, or sometimes even just some mud caked to the back of a rim could throw it out of balance

Car Shaking Problems
Steering and Suspension
Plymouth Breeze

What can cause the steering wheel to shake?

Check all linkage for wear or play,jack under each a-arm one at a time ,move tires left to right for linkage/ up and down for bearings & ball joints and cv axles if you get play or pop's and clicks have some one follow the noise. Shake's during braking, rotors are warped due to hot rotors hitting cold water puddles on the road. Shakes to the left or right,if the steering wheel shakes to the left put the left front tire on the right side, test drive if it starts shaking to the right that will be the bad tire,vise-versa if shakes to the right .Replace that tire and get a alignment check,steering wheel shakes are front tires,the whole car skaking is the rear tires.This is due to uneven wear on the tire the eye can't see. WORN CVC OR U-JOINTS, UNBALANCED TIRES( COULD BE CAUSED BY LOSS OF A WHEEL WEIGHT, MUD OR SNOW IN YOUR WHEEL), BENT RIM, ECT. If you have directional tires make sure they are on the right sides LOTS of THINGS; First define when it shakes and how it shakes. Tires at highway speed; tire balance / improper wear (may be alignment issue). I have had intermittent vibration from using a different tire on front. When Brakes are applied: front rotors warped (worst at higher speed)but I have found numerous steering linkage issues (vibration at slower / not all speeds). Steering Linkage- vibration when hitting bumps on highway: tire rod ends, idler arm, pitman arm, panhard rod ends (if equiped), ball joints, could also be worn steering box (usually hard steering issues). There could be suspension issues like a damaged strut (not just worn-out). Checking: No engine, running get under front end and have someone turn steering wheel lightly back and forth, any joints should move in tandem (no looseness). You'll look for movement that is not consistent. Another way is to bottle jack under lower A arm on one side / get wheel off ground, grab wheel and move laterally back/forth from outside vehicle. There should be no play or noises when pulling hard. THEN put tire iron under wheel and pull up. Wheel should move vertically without shifting. This checks ball joint play. Look for inconsistent movement of wheel. Some have upper/lower ball joint, some have lower ball joint/strut. Sorry, does take some experience to know what is acceptable. If it bad problem it can be seen. Service manuals sometimes describe maximum movement for the technicians. Diagnois FIRST before replacing parts.

Often, this sort of an issue crops up when your wheels are inappropriately balanced, or the tires have worn unevenly. But sometimes loose bolts of the wheel or a distorted brake rotor could be the culprits. In case of a disfigured brake rotor consider replacement. The other issues can be taken care of by an expert. You can learn more about it

Auto Parts and Repairs
Steering and Suspension
Power Steering

Does power steering fluid need to be changed?

yes it does, as every other fluid does to. it does lose it's optimum lubrication and cleaning agents which can cause power steering pump and rack premature failure. it should be changed as regularly as every 30-40,000km

Cars & Vehicles
Steering and Suspension

How do you connect a sway bar?

The correct name for this bar is the "anti-sway bar" or in some areas it is referred to as the "anti-roll bar".It reduces the amount of "tilt" the car body makes as you corner.There are generally 2 of these,front and rear.They join the suspension via 2 links and are attached to the underside of the chassis rails via 2 u shaped clamps. The clamps are held on via a pair of bolts each side.A rubber "bush" or slieve lies between the clamp and the bar to cushion the motion of the bar.These are known as the anti sway bar bushes, and will need to be replaced at least every 20k miles.They may wear out sooner if you do a lot of driving on twisty country roads.This is a d.i.y. job for any one with a pair of hands and is as easy as changing a set of spark plugs.Worn bushes result in loud knocking and thudding as you corner or drive over rough ground. It's a $20 fix so dont neglect these hard working little pieces of rubber !

Car Sounds
Steering and Suspension
Buick Rendezvous

What causes a clicking noise while moving the steering wheel?

There is a tsb on the stabilizer bar links. Actually there are 2 the first one is if there is play in the link, try tightening it and the second is replace them if I remember right. Although not as profitable as a rack, it should be checked first before replacing that rack.

AnswerI've had a similar problem which led to the half shaft being bad. If it's rear-wheel drive then exclude my comment AnswerI'm not familiar with your vehicle however i have fixed a similar problem in several cars ive owned if your wheel moves or pops a little then you hear the click or thump then look for where the steering column comes out of the firewall and connects to the shaft coming from the steering box there may be a joint htere that has a rubber type material that joins the two together this joint allows the column to be at a different angle than the lower shaft if the "rubber circle is worn out you will need to replace it. this will cause your steering wheel to move iwerd then you get the thump or it has a little slop in it and it thumps. there are two pins going from the upper shaft and two pins coming from the lower and the rubber circle joins them together it is common for these to wear out. AnswerI had a similar problem. The sound got worse as time went on. At first, before the clickig it was a "whirring" sound that increased as tire speed increased (like a tire wearing badly on one edge). Then it began to click in the turns; first just when turning one way; then the other. This is typical of the wear indications for a CV JOINT going bad. In my case, it was just on the right side. I had FIRESTONE fix it. For the longest time I thought I had bad tires; but it was the CV JOINT.

answer answer the bearings inside steering column,(behind steering wheel) are worn out. replace them soon or you will have to replace the steering shaft in column. bearing replacement will cost you about 60 bucks in a shop. shaft replacement will cost about 250 bucks just to buy the shaft, so don't let this problem get any worse

Noises can be difficult to pin point ---it is usually nesessary to hear them yourself---but another possibility is the bearing in the top of the strut mount could be worn out or dry so when you turn the steering wheel --while standing still--the strutt assembly moves eratically rather then smothly making a clicking sound--Put your hand on the strut tower while turning the wheel and see if you can feel it

Steering and Suspension
Lincoln Town Car

How do you adjust the height of a car's suspension?

Sounds like you have a leak in the air suspension. Check out if it does or it will burn out the pump. Monroe makes a replacement set up for the " air -Ride". It runs you around a grand to have it replace the OEM design.

Steering and Suspension
Fuel Filters
Chevy Silverado

How do you change kingpins on kenworth truck?

Sure, the king pin could be considered part of the trailer, BUT it also refers to the two "pins" that hold the wheel/tire assembly onto the front axle.

Car Shaking Problems
Steering and Suspension
Plymouth Breeze

What would cause the steering wheel to shake when braking?

When was the last time you had brake work done? It sounds like the brake rotors cannot dissipate the heat from the heavy braking. If they overheat they can temporarily warp until they cool back down. I see this typically on rotors that were machined (sometimes still within acceptable limits) or from poor quality rotors.

Check the tie rod ends for wear. Have a friend rock the steering wheel side to side in the center and listen for a thunking or slapping noise at the rear of the front tires. Jack up the car in front and rock the wheel side to side (hands at 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock) and check for looseness.

Good luck.

One or possibly both of the brake rotors are out of wack and you need to replace them. I had the same problem on my 97 accord. I replaced the passenger side rotor and car is running and braking just fine.

Warped rotors. Get them lathed (Sp?) and don't forget new pads. If you leave the old pads on they'll wear grooves into the new(er) rotors thus making their life shorter and the problem re-arising.

A garage that my cousin had taken his '94 Buick Century to listed that it needed front struts, upper strut mount plates and inner tie rods. But after seeing these other answers here and helpful answers in other auto forums while researching in the mid part of April, 2005, my suspicions were confirmed that the shaking-only-when-braking on his car was caused by front brake rotor warpage (Although, later on, he also started to notice that when he put one finger on the steering wheel while cruising without braking, there was a very slight vibratory movement of the steering wheel...which I had summed up to just commonly being the brake pads resting lightly against the rotors even when no pressure is applied since rotor calipers do not have any type of return spring which would pull the brakes away any further). So just recently (4-21-05), against the "professional's" conclusions and $500.00 estimate (who had listed almost everything else but rotors as the cause), I put on all new front rotors and brakes (a total of about $51.00) and the car then braked beautifully with no vibration whatsoever. Vullin

Steering and Suspension
Shocks and Struts
Ford Expedition
Dog Health

Why would the suspension lean to one side?

The same air pressure is applied to both air bags so they should lift the same amount, however when the weight in the car is removed and the ride height is too high, the control unit opens the solenoids to vent some air. If the control unit only sends the vent signal to one solenoid or the wiring to one of the solenoids is bad, then only one would vent so the other side would stay high. Check wiring and connecters. If the air system is ok, it will still lean if of the car is heavier on one side or if one of the front springs is weak or broken. These are just guesses and I am assuming the limo is the same the cars I am familiar with. .

If the car does not have "air ride", Look for a broken spring, low tire pressure or a bad strut.

A broken Leaf spring would cause it to lean to one side.


Depending on what type of suspension you have (torsion bars, coil springs, solid axle,leaf spring, etc. It could be a worn spring( leaf or coil), broken torsion bar, or a broken steering knuckle .

Steering and Suspension
Power Steering
Saturn S-Series

Does the 1998 Saturn sl2 have power steering?

assuming your vehicle is equipped with powersteering, yes. to find out for sure you will need to open your hood and look in engine compartment. there should be, in the upper left corner of the engine, a small black cap that says... Power Steering on it. it will be sitting ontop of a white colored fluid container. This would be your power steering pump. Twist the black cap and pull upwards. the cap will have a stick fastened to the bottom of it with a fluid level indicator mark. be sure the fluid is up to that mark, or very close to it. if not, you may need to purchase some power steering fluid.

Steering and Suspension
1995-2005 Chevy Cavaliers

Where is the sway bar on 2001 cavalier?

Its in the front. if you crank your wheel to the right, and look in the space in your drivers front tire. you will see this metal bar going to both sides. there is a long bolt going up with a few rubber bushings on it. if you search up sway bar kits for the cavalier you will know what im talking about. Hope this helps

American Cars
Steering and Suspension
Chevy El Camino

How do you install lower ball joints on a elcamino?

if they are original you will most likely have to pop the rivets off the bottom of the old if you use air hammer...may have to remove from car....other than that..should be pretty simple

The rivets are best drilled out instead of hammering and chiseling. If you distort the lower control arm, the repair gets pretty expensive. Drill them out with the smallest drill bit possible the will remove the center of the rivit. You will be installing the new ball joints with nuts and bolts and you don't want the holes too big.

Steering and Suspension
Power Steering
Chevy Cobalt

Where is the pOwer steerinG for 2009 Chevy Cobalt?

Under the dash on the inside of the car. AHHHHH electric power steering....

Steering and Suspension
Toyota Camry
Auto Racing
Motorola Droid

What is the little colored stripe at the 12 o'clock position on some steering wheels for?

Drivers use the tape as a marker for the steering wheel. A couple examples for the use are as follows: When checking for the alignment after a wreck or damage, they line up the tape and check for drifting to ensure the car still drives straight. If the steering wheel ever comes off(wreck, relief driver, etc) they use the tape to determine where it goes back. Some use it as a marker for how far to turn the wheel into a turn. Watching a few NASCAR races will also help answer your question

AnswerIt also helps in pit stops to make sure the driver keep the front wheels straight. The wheel openings on speedway cars are made as small as possible for areodynamic reasons that the tires won't come off quickly for a good pit stop.

To go a little deeper in the previous answer, as far as handling issues. A driver can use that as a gauge, if the car starts pushing, he can tell how much it changed by how much farther he has to turn the wheel. And after a wreck, if the tape isn't centered when the car is going straight, he knows that the front end alignment has been affected. Then by passing that info on to the crew chief, along with how the car is now handling, they can make a plan of action for the next pit stop on what to do to fix the car.


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