Letting off the throttle control
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Get your tires balanced and/or check the lug nuts.
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Not as bad as putting a little bit of power steering fluid in the brake reservoir, but I would have the power steering system flushed just the same. Problems wouldn't happen soon but in the long term they will.
the front wheel bearing for the windstar comes as a complete hub assembly. you have to remove the brake caliper,rotor,and axel. then remove the 3 12mm 12 point bolts holding the assembly on the spindle. beat the old hub and bearing out with a hammer and install the new one !
Note: Not all bearing have that 3-bolt connect. If yours DOES, consider yourself lucky! If it doesn't, you'll likely have to take the knuckle to a machine shop and have them press it out & in.
Note: Had trouble with hub after being pressed,as axle would not tighten up enough to hold in place...Suggest replacing half-axle (easy and cheap) if hub does not tighten down and stay tight. Had to have my hub pressed TWICE before I caught on.
The trans axle must be removed from the steering knuckle. Loosen trans axle nut and remove wheel. Remove brake caliper and disc. Disconnect the stabilizer bar link at top or bottom. Disconnect lower ball joint steering knuckle at pinch bolt and pry lower arm down out of joint. Remove the trans axle nut. A puller is required to push the trans axle through the hub. Remove wheel hub from bearing by prying at the front and hammer and punch from the rear. Clean and remove the bearing"C" clip at rear. Punch the bearing out towards the engine. Install new bearing in the reverse order. Note: A torch may be required to remove bearing from steering knuckle. Most difficult parts are removing hub and removing bearing.
I did mine without punching or torch by using a regular machine shop press. Just remove the hub assembly off the vehicle (one additional bolt IIRC)to remove from the previous comment in this thread, and setup on said press, use a round dummy of right size and old one slides out, new one slides in. Ben
They changed the design on this at some time. Your may press in, or it may use a 3 bolt system. Either way, you DO have to take the knuckle off. If you're not mechancially inclined, or you don't have significant upper-body strength (you, not the car), take it to a pro.
First one I did, took about 4 hours. Had the Ford dealer machine shop press it out & in (took them 30 minutes - they said sometimes they stick pretty bad). After $30 to the shop, and $50 for a new bearing, total cost $80. They said they'd do the whole thing for $150.
So the NEXT time one went (different Windstar, what can I say, I like 'em), I said to myself "No way I'm laying on the garage floor, screwing with that knuckle, etc, for a lousy $70" I took it to the dealer and let them fight with it. Best $70 I ever spent!!!!
The fronts are pressed into the hub assembly and better off to use a mechanic shop for that. The rears are very easy on that model - 2 piece bearing + seal, grease and torque to stop then back off till turn easy... install new cotter pin.
This is not easy . Get a manual on your car and it will have pictures and everything.
The step-by-step procedures are detailed & illustrated in Autozone.com's free online Chiltons repair guide - See "Related Links" below.
Yes the front wheel bearing for your ford winstar is pressed in with a hydraulic press.
I just wanted to add another two cents about the topic of bleeding or burping the power steering system:
1. Know what type of power steering fluid is needed for your car. Some power steering pumps can use automatic transmission fluid, others have specific power steering fluid for each car, i.e. Honda requires and suggests that you use Honda's brand of power steering fluid (see owner's manual). Make sure you know, or the warranty from the dealership or from the parts store may be voided.
2. Before attaching the power steering belt, fill pump with required amount and type of fluid (see owner's manual), and then turn the pulley wheel by hand a few times. This helps cut down on dry turns before they can happen. If more power steering fluid is needed, fill accordingly.
3. Attach the power steering belt with proper amount of tension (see owner's manual).
4. Turn vehicle on and proceed to turn the steering wheel all the way right and left 3-4 times.
5. Turn the vehicle off, and examine that the belt tension is acceptable, and again check the level of fluid and fill accordingly.
6. Always, always check your owner's manual before performing any maintenance on your vehicle. An educated car owner is a safe car owner!Another possibilityHow long has the pump run without fluid? There could be damage inside to the cam and rotor (assuming it's a vane type pump), or to the plates, or it could be cavitating due to the ingress of air -- possibly why the fluid leaked out in the first place.
I too experienced very loud whining noise from my 93 Ranger 3.0's power steering pump at idle, and even louder when turning the steering wheel even a little bit in either direction. I changed the fluid but there was no change in noise. I read in a Ranger forum that if you add some STP oil treatment (yes, STP OIL TREATMENT), not the whole can, it would help. I decided to give it a try and sure enough it has reduced the noise greatly. It didn't completely eliminate it but people no longer stare at my vehicle at red lights because of the noisy pump. That was embarrassing! Ford's pump must be partly to blame since the problem is so rampant among all their various models.
By the way, Mercury is supposed to begin being phased out (discontinued) beginning in 2010 and completely gone by 2012. Only Ford and Lincoln will remain. Just thought ya'll might want to know that since your Mercury's value will likely plummet as that kill-off nears. However, those of you who have a stiffy for Mercs may get a good deal on one before they are gone. I personally don't think they are "all that". Fords in general are pretty low market in build and longevity. I used to favor GM but switched to Honda products in the 90s, they are very long-lived. My latest is a Jaguar and I'm quite happy with it. Yes I know they were owned by Ford and now by Tata Motors but the design is all Jag.
The control arm is attached to your front wheels and a pivot point attached to the frame, when your wheel hits a bump or hole, the wheel moves up and down via the shocks, the bumper keeps the control arm from slamming against the frame, destroying your wheel alignment along with the tire and wheel well
I believe it's located underneath the steering wheel. If you take off the panel just behind the steering wheel (pull hard, but be careful of the wire connected to the trunk release button inside the coin box) you should be able to see it easily. It's a black box, about 4" x 4" or so that says "Koyo" on it and you can see a little piece of a computer chip popping out the top righthand side. Hope this helps!
I believe it's located underneath the steering wheel. If you take off the panel just behind the steering wheel (pull hard, but be careful of the wire connected to the trunk release button inside the coin box) you should be able to see it easily. It's a black box, about 4" x 4" or so that says "Koyo" on it and you can see a little piece of a computer chip popping out the top righthand side.
If you have access to a press, pressing them out would be the best way. You will need the spring removed from the car. Another way (but messy) is to burn the rubber out of the bushing then remove the steel collar with a hammer and chisel. But installing them would be best done with a press.
Burning the rubber out is the easiest way to remove the bushings if you do not have air tools. Depending on where you live this is a very hostile environment and the leafs have been down there for a long time. People in dry states usually have a better time at this but for those in the midwest and other rust belt states you could be asking for trouble. The perch that the leafs sits in (front) is usually very rusty and held together just for the fact the leafs are still there. So be prepared for this malady when you get ready to change them. when the leafs are down the new ones can be located by the pin location on the new set of leafs. just set them in the pin hole and bolt them up. Do the front first and then go to the rear keeping in mind that a jack my be needed to raise the rear of the leaf to the shackle. Good luck!
More than likely your tires need balanced. or you have a cord busted in a tire. Bent rim could cause it, or sometimes even just some mud caked to the back of a rim could throw it out of balance
Check all linkage for wear or play,jack under each a-arm one at a time ,move tires left to right for linkage/ up and down for bearings & ball joints and cv axles if you get play or pop's and clicks have some one follow the noise. Shake's during braking, rotors are warped due to hot rotors hitting cold water puddles on the road. Shakes to the left or right,if the steering wheel shakes to the left put the left front tire on the right side, test drive if it starts shaking to the right that will be the bad tire,vise-versa if shakes to the right .Replace that tire and get a alignment check,steering wheel shakes are front tires,the whole car skaking is the rear tires.This is due to uneven wear on the tire the eye can't see. WORN CVC OR U-JOINTS, UNBALANCED TIRES( COULD BE CAUSED BY LOSS OF A WHEEL WEIGHT, MUD OR SNOW IN YOUR WHEEL), BENT RIM, ECT. If you have directional tires make sure they are on the right sides LOTS of THINGS; First define when it shakes and how it shakes. Tires at highway speed; tire balance / improper wear (may be alignment issue). I have had intermittent vibration from using a different tire on front. When Brakes are applied: front rotors warped (worst at higher speed)but I have found numerous steering linkage issues (vibration at slower / not all speeds). Steering Linkage- vibration when hitting bumps on highway: tire rod ends, idler arm, pitman arm, panhard rod ends (if equiped), ball joints, could also be worn steering box (usually hard steering issues). There could be suspension issues like a damaged strut (not just worn-out). Checking: No engine, running get under front end and have someone turn steering wheel lightly back and forth, any joints should move in tandem (no looseness). You'll look for movement that is not consistent. Another way is to bottle jack under lower A arm on one side / get wheel off ground, grab wheel and move laterally back/forth from outside vehicle. There should be no play or noises when pulling hard. THEN put tire iron under wheel and pull up. Wheel should move vertically without shifting. This checks ball joint play. Look for inconsistent movement of wheel. Some have upper/lower ball joint, some have lower ball joint/strut. Sorry, does take some experience to know what is acceptable. If it bad problem it can be seen. Service manuals sometimes describe maximum movement for the technicians. Diagnois FIRST before replacing parts.
Often, this sort of an issue crops up when your wheels are inappropriately balanced, or the tires have worn unevenly. But sometimes loose bolts of the wheel or a distorted brake rotor could be the culprits. In case of a disfigured brake rotor consider replacement. The other issues can be taken care of by an expert. You can learn more about it Automotive-online.com
yes it does, as every other fluid does to. it does lose it's optimum lubrication and cleaning agents which can cause power steering pump and rack premature failure. it should be changed as regularly as every 30-40,000km
The correct name for this bar is the "anti-sway bar" or in some areas it is referred to as the "anti-roll bar".It reduces the amount of "tilt" the car body makes as you corner.There are generally 2 of these,front and rear.They join the suspension via 2 links and are attached to the underside of the chassis rails via 2 u shaped clamps. The clamps are held on via a pair of bolts each side.A rubber "bush" or slieve lies between the clamp and the bar to cushion the motion of the bar.These are known as the anti sway bar bushes, and will need to be replaced at least every 20k miles.They may wear out sooner if you do a lot of driving on twisty country roads.This is a d.i.y. job for any one with a pair of hands and is as easy as changing a set of spark plugs.Worn bushes result in loud knocking and thudding as you corner or drive over rough ground. It's a $20 fix so dont neglect these hard working little pieces of rubber !
There is a tsb on the stabilizer bar links. Actually there are 2 the first one is if there is play in the link, try tightening it and the second is replace them if I remember right. Although not as profitable as a rack, it should be checked first before replacing that rack.AnswerI've had a similar problem which led to the half shaft being bad. If it's rear-wheel drive then exclude my comment AnswerI'm not familiar with your vehicle however i have fixed a similar problem in several cars ive owned if your wheel moves or pops a little then you hear the click or thump then look for where the steering column comes out of the firewall and connects to the shaft coming from the steering box there may be a joint htere that has a rubber type material that joins the two together this joint allows the column to be at a different angle than the lower shaft if the "rubber circle is worn out you will need to replace it. this will cause your steering wheel to move iwerd then you get the thump or it has a little slop in it and it thumps. there are two pins going from the upper shaft and two pins coming from the lower and the rubber circle joins them together it is common for these to wear out. AnswerI had a similar problem. The sound got worse as time went on. At first, before the clickig it was a "whirring" sound that increased as tire speed increased (like a tire wearing badly on one edge). Then it began to click in the turns; first just when turning one way; then the other. This is typical of the wear indications for a CV JOINT going bad. In my case, it was just on the right side. I had FIRESTONE fix it. For the longest time I thought I had bad tires; but it was the CV JOINT.
answer answer the bearings inside steering column,(behind steering wheel) are worn out. replace them soon or you will have to replace the steering shaft in column. bearing replacement will cost you about 60 bucks in a shop. shaft replacement will cost about 250 bucks just to buy the shaft, so don't let this problem get any worse
Noises can be difficult to pin point ---it is usually nesessary to hear them yourself---but another possibility is the bearing in the top of the strut mount could be worn out or dry so when you turn the steering wheel --while standing still--the strutt assembly moves eratically rather then smothly making a clicking sound--Put your hand on the strut tower while turning the wheel and see if you can feel it
Sounds like you have a leak in the air suspension. Check out if it does or it will burn out the pump. Monroe makes a replacement set up for the " air -Ride". It runs you around a grand to have it replace the OEM design.
Sure, the king pin could be considered part of the trailer, BUT it also refers to the two "pins" that hold the wheel/tire assembly onto the front axle.
When was the last time you had brake work done? It sounds like the brake rotors cannot dissipate the heat from the heavy braking. If they overheat they can temporarily warp until they cool back down. I see this typically on rotors that were machined (sometimes still within acceptable limits) or from poor quality rotors.
Check the tie rod ends for wear. Have a friend rock the steering wheel side to side in the center and listen for a thunking or slapping noise at the rear of the front tires. Jack up the car in front and rock the wheel side to side (hands at 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock) and check for looseness.
One or possibly both of the brake rotors are out of wack and you need to replace them. I had the same problem on my 97 accord. I replaced the passenger side rotor and car is running and braking just fine.
Warped rotors. Get them lathed (Sp?) and don't forget new pads. If you leave the old pads on they'll wear grooves into the new(er) rotors thus making their life shorter and the problem re-arising.
A garage that my cousin had taken his '94 Buick Century to listed that it needed front struts, upper strut mount plates and inner tie rods. But after seeing these other answers here and helpful answers in other auto forums while researching in the mid part of April, 2005, my suspicions were confirmed that the shaking-only-when-braking on his car was caused by front brake rotor warpage (Although, later on, he also started to notice that when he put one finger on the steering wheel while cruising without braking, there was a very slight vibratory movement of the steering wheel...which I had summed up to just commonly being the brake pads resting lightly against the rotors even when no pressure is applied since rotor calipers do not have any type of return spring which would pull the brakes away any further). So just recently (4-21-05), against the "professional's" conclusions and $500.00 estimate (who had listed almost everything else but rotors as the cause), I put on all new front rotors and brakes (a total of about $51.00) and the car then braked beautifully with no vibration whatsoever. Vullin
The same air pressure is applied to both air bags so they should lift the same amount, however when the weight in the car is removed and the ride height is too high, the control unit opens the solenoids to vent some air. If the control unit only sends the vent signal to one solenoid or the wiring to one of the solenoids is bad, then only one would vent so the other side would stay high. Check wiring and connecters. If the air system is ok, it will still lean if of the car is heavier on one side or if one of the front springs is weak or broken. These are just guesses and I am assuming the limo is the same the cars I am familiar with. .
If the car does not have "air ride", Look for a broken spring, low tire pressure or a bad strut.
A broken Leaf spring would cause it to lean to one side.
Depending on what type of suspension you have (torsion bars, coil springs, solid axle,leaf spring, etc. It could be a worn spring( leaf or coil), broken torsion bar, or a broken steering knuckle .
assuming your vehicle is equipped with powersteering, yes. to find out for sure you will need to open your hood and look in engine compartment. there should be, in the upper left corner of the engine, a small black cap that says... Power Steering on it. it will be sitting ontop of a white colored fluid container. This would be your power steering pump. Twist the black cap and pull upwards. the cap will have a stick fastened to the bottom of it with a fluid level indicator mark. be sure the fluid is up to that mark, or very close to it. if not, you may need to purchase some power steering fluid.
checking for abnormal play or movement.Most vehicles have a ball-joint on the end of the inner and outer tie rod ends to allow the vehicle to move over bumps. These ball joints are just what they sound...a metal sphere in a socket with a shaft that attaches the two components. If not lubricated properly any ball-joint will rub the spherical socket against the wall and abrade the ball smaller and the walls larger. By squeezing or shaking the Tie-rod end a mechanic can 'feel' the excess movement between the ball and the socket walls.
Its in the front. if you crank your wheel to the right, and look in the space in your drivers front tire. you will see this metal bar going to both sides. there is a long bolt going up with a few rubber bushings on it. if you search up sway bar kits for the cavalier you will know what im talking about. Hope this helps
if they are original you will most likely have to pop the rivets off the bottom of the old ones...best if you use air hammer...may have to remove from car....other than that..should be pretty simple
The rivets are best drilled out instead of hammering and chiseling. If you distort the lower control arm, the repair gets pretty expensive. Drill them out with the smallest drill bit possible the will remove the center of the rivit. You will be installing the new ball joints with nuts and bolts and you don't want the holes too big.
Under the dash on the inside of the car. AHHHHH electric power steering....
Drivers use the tape as a marker for the steering wheel. A couple examples for the use are as follows: When checking for the alignment after a wreck or damage, they line up the tape and check for drifting to ensure the car still drives straight. If the steering wheel ever comes off(wreck, relief driver, etc) they use the tape to determine where it goes back. Some use it as a marker for how far to turn the wheel into a turn. Watching a few NASCAR races will also help answer your questionAnswerIt also helps in pit stops to make sure the driver keep the front wheels straight. The wheel openings on speedway cars are made as small as possible for areodynamic reasons that the tires won't come off quickly for a good pit stop.
To go a little deeper in the previous answer, as far as handling issues. A driver can use that as a gauge, if the car starts pushing, he can tell how much it changed by how much farther he has to turn the wheel. And after a wreck, if the tape isn't centered when the car is going straight, he knows that the front end alignment has been affected. Then by passing that info on to the crew chief, along with how the car is now handling, they can make a plan of action for the next pit stop on what to do to fix the car.
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