This answer is for manual gears:
-Suppress clutch (the outermost pedal on the LEFT) with LEFT leg
-Move gear stick to the wanted gear position(see gear map image on top of the gear stick) with RIGHT hand
-Release clutch, pausing slightly when the gear sets in, to allow the gear shift go smoothly

I have no experience on automatic gears, so can't help you there SORRY ! Contact your car dealer for more in depth info.

unfortunately the only way to get the engine out of the engine bay is to support the engine and then take off the driver side engine mount and physically move the engine towards the passenger compartment which will give you enough room to remove the radiator. Hope this helps.

not true.

two or 4 bolts hold on the front bumper,dependant on the series of 306(phase 1/2/3)the easiest way to change the radiator is to remove the front bumper along with the slam panel,which is also only held on by two bolts,unplug the electrical connections and the bonnet release.remove fan (unscrew the electrical plug first!)and remove also.

hey presto.

little tip:put some baby oil or sumthing around the gromit that goes into the lower radiator joint,its a pig of a job fitting otherwise.

alternative remove the lower radiator hose itself by releasing the clamp round the back of the engine and fit it away from the car :)

perfect stress free fit!

I would say this.

306 1.9 D 1998 S reg.

1 Drain system from bottom of rad, should be a drain off there. If not take off bottom hose from the driver side connected to the engine see 6 to do this.

2 Remove trim behind bonnet latch, should be one bolt and 4 plastic re-usable clips.

3 Remove air intake on rhs, bolt is 10mm and a little fiddly to get to but makes it much easier later on.

4 Remove expansion tank cap and then the tank itself, including bracket which is held on with 3 torx bolts.

5 Assuming the handbrake is already on, remove driverside front wheel.

6 Remove wheel arch liner, its in 2 bits and is held on with plastic clips which again can be re-used if removed carefully.

7 Remove screen wash bottle, unscrew neck from under bonnet first, then two 10mm nuts hold tank in place. Undo wire connection from motor and remove the clear piping to the washer jets, marking their positions as one is front and the other is rear!

8 Now you should be able to get to the bottom hose which is held on by two clips, very important as they keep hose from touching cam belt!! It travels from the back of the engine block to the bottom connection on the rad. Dont remove it from the rad yet.

9 In the engine bay remove the other hoses from the rad, should be easy enough with a set of pump pliers. I found it best to completely remove the top hose.

10 Now the rad should have just the bottom hose connected. It should be possible to remove the rad with it connected, but two pairs of hands make it much easier, one removing the rad and the other feeding the hose out of the wheel arch.

11 With the rad removed you should be able to remove the bottom hose relatively easily, but take care. You will find an O ring inside, which is likely to be damaged. I actually picked up two from Euro car Parts incase I damaged one.

12 Inside the bottom hose you will see it has a slit which lines up with a lug in the rad itself. It makes things much easier if you use some vaseline or baby oil around the O ring now as it needs firm pressure to locate it properly.

13 To be sure of it not leaking I now blanked off the other outlets and filled the rad with water. First time the O ring had not seated properly so it was worth checking!

14 Now, as usual to a Haynes manual refitting was the reverse of removal! The hardest bit is getting the hose back through the hole in the bulkhead, the rest is just a matter of reconnecting everything you removed.

15 The last thing to do is refill the system. I used a 3 litre squash bottle as a header tank and fitted it to the expansion tank using insulating tape. There are two dust caps one is on the heater matrix going into the bulkhead next to brake reservoir on the left of the engine and the other is located in a small pipe that goes from the expansion tank to the cylinder head on the right side. Remove these and refill until water emerges with no air or bubbles then tighten lower dust cap first then the heater matrix one.

16 Start car with header tank still on and topped up and run engine. You should now be good to go.

not sure if a partner is the same but I asked the same question to a dealer regarding the 407 SW rear wiper arm as mine was not positioned correctly and was told they could only be removed by breaking off and replaced with a new arm!

open your boot and you will see 2 bolts 10mm i think unscrew them and the whole lens comes out watch tho very hard to push out some times they can brake just be careful cant miss the bolts right where the light is at the back cheer

If you mean the multi display unit on top of the dash, it couldn't be easier. Push the unit upwards from the side nearset you (it may need a bit of a hit) and pull the unit free. There is multi-plug fitted to the unit which can be removed (if you do remove it you will need to re-set the display info - clock, date, radio channels etc). The three bulbs are situated along the back of the unit and are of a twist fitment, you will need some long nose pliers to make this easier. One of the bulbs will have to have the multi-plug removed to gain access to it. From experience, it is easier to change all three bulbs together. I hope that helps!

A friendly suggestion: if you're going to be performing maintenance on your Saab you may want to invest in a service manual (aftermarket should be fine such as Chilton's or Clymer's). There's also lots of help to be found on www.saabnet.com Good luck with your Saab!

Just done one on a 2003 HDI SW. Pump is located inside the front bumper at the driver's side. To access it you need to remove some of the fasteners that hold on the plastic inner wheel arch so that the front part can be prised open. The pump is located at the base of the water reservoir (just trace the rubber pipes back). Pull off the two pipes and prise off the electrical connector. The pump is only fixed to the reservoir by its inlet so simply wiggle it out of the rubber grommet (be prepared to catch the washer fluid). Refitting is just the reverse.

According to the user's manual, you need to take it to the dealership to do the job. I suggest you compare the price of fixing it in the dealership with the price of new/used ones in local Ebay, as there are separate ones available for each side.

when rearn wou goo engrish i wirr wou answer.

A small yellow symbol lit up on my dashboard, is it the transmission light?

High pressure Diesel Injection

35 psi or 2 1/2 bar, its not critical

not an expensive job to do. part cost about £10 but apparently it is an awkard job as a part of the dash on passengers side needs removing to get in at it. how do you remove a heater motor from a peugeot 406 do you have to remove the full dashboard or just the glove compartment

Front Brakes torque

Front Brake Disc 1 +/- 0.1

Yoke on Caliper 3 +/- 0.3

Unions on brake piping (lines) 1.5 +/- 1

ABS/ESP block support on chassis 0.2 +/- 0.1

Wheel sensor 0.8 +/-0.1

Caliper on pivot 10.5 +/- 1

The torx (star bit) tool used for complete brake caliper disassembly is a No. 55 for Bosch Front calipers used for most models

OEM Brake fluid is CASTROL Super DOT 4 (Response) or CASTROL GT DOT 4 from BP

ATE (Teves) Brake fluid Super DOT 4 + or the new SL.6 DOT 4 as recommended by ATE for their front calipers on the 307CC

DO NOT USE RACING BRAKE FLUID WITH STOCK OEM CALIPERS AND PADS; DO NOT MIX HIGH PERFORMANCE PADS WITH STOCK OEM DISCS... Racing brake fluid is low viscosity and is intended for multi-puck racing calipers (Galfer/Brembo, etc...).

ALL models use TRW (formerly Lucas Girling) rear calipers & rear suspension springs

it is just under the drivers side mirror...a small bulb!!

210 km

Your dead bolt has probably locked itself on, this happened to my 307, it cost me over £200 to get fixed by a dealer, which is what i would recommend as i tookmine first to a garage and they wanted to hack the interiour door away which would have cost a further £300 to replace.

1= Top up point is on top of the gearbox housing behind the transmission selector lever. Its a round plug with a square hole stamped into it. To reach it you will meed to remove the air filter housing, battery and battery tray. Naturally the drain plug is on the underside of the gearbox housing!

2= The transmission has a level plug that is situated in the drain plug( its the smaller of the two). To check the level first start the engine and allow to idle. With the engine running retain the drain plug with a suitable spanner and slacken and remove the level plug in the middle. If there is sufficient fluid in the transmission, then it will trickle out the middle of the drain plug before slowing to a drip. If no fluid trickles out or just a few drips appear, then the level is too low and topping up is needed. Refit the filler plug then switch off the engine and add 0.5 litres, then switch the engine on and recheck the level by removing the level plug again. Once the fluid stops the level is correct!

4= If you do drain and refill the transmission fluid then the fluid wear sensor will have to be reset. This is what tells the ecu to flash the snow and sport mode lights when the fluid needs changing. This can be done by a Peugeot dealer or someone with suitable equipment!

HI IF THERE IS A HOLE FOR THE BARREL ITS A MANUALLY LOCKIN DOOR IF THERES NO HOLE ITS A CENTRAL LOCKING OPERATED DOOR SO YOU WOULD PROB HAVE TO PUT ALL YOUR WIRING/LOCK MECHANISM IN IT..................