Auto Parts and Repairs

Intervals Here is what I recommend for maintenance intervals. There are exceptions to all of these including severe duty, which most northern cars fall into. Change Transmission filter-30,000 miles, 90,000 and 150,000 miles and fluid at 60,000, 120,000 and 180,000 miles. Change oil every 3,000 miles or 3 months, unless you use Mobil One, in which case 6 months/6,000 miles. Chassis lube every 3,000 miles, assuming there are fittings. Spark plugs: Conventional plugs: 30,000 miles, Double platinum: every 50,000 miles (100,000 mile plugs are best to be changed well before that, although some can reach it). Fuel filter: 35,000-40,000 miles. Unless it is in the tank. But if the tank is ever dropped, do it then Ignition cap, rotor, wires: 60,000-80,000 miles. (if it has them). Timing Belt, if applicible: 60,000 miles on many but check with gates or dayco or the manual or dealer, as many different intervals are now present. Coolant flush -- green: 2 years/24,000 miles. Coolant flush -- dex-cool or long life: 5 years/50,000 miles. Tire rotation: 5,000-8,000 miles. Alignment: 15,000-20,000 miles., unless tire wear is not a problem and car goes straight. Brake fluid flush and power steering fluid flush: 2 years or when dirty or discolored. Air filter, pcv valve and cabin air filter: as needed. Professional fuel injection service: 40,000 miles. Throttle bore plate cleaning: 20,000 miles. Air induction service: 20,000 miles. Maintenance Every auto manufacturer lists their required maintenance on their web sites and in the owners manual the maintenance service intervals vary between manufacturers. Your car is a moving piece of machinery, it needs maintenance, if you want this car to last you need to service it. Do not just do the minimum recommended services that are listed in you service manual. Make sure you service your cooling system which prolongs the life of the radiator and water pump, and the power steering system, which will extend the life of your cars power-seeking pump and gear box or rack. It will cost you much more than you want to spend when you fail to maintain your car and larger problems surface. I recommend that you review your owners manual and get acquainted with a reputable auto repair facility. A good relationship with you car and your car's mechanic will benefit you in the long run, providing you with a long lasting and safe car. At 30,000 miles you should also service your cooling system, transmission, fuel system and power steering; this should be repeated every 30k miles. I recommend flushes of the later mentioned items to prolong these systems' life span. Car care Basic car care can be simple and take only a short time to complete if you know what to do and look for. Check your oil every week by first starting the vehicle and letting it run for at least 30 seconds. This allows the oil to fill the oil filter and will give you a proper reading on your dipstick. Shut the engine off wait 2-5 min to allow the oil to settle, and pull the oil dipstick, wipe it clean and replace it in the dip stick tube. Pull it out a second time and check the level. Fill if needed, but do not over fill, and it's best to use the same weight of oil last used. Check your transmission every month by first pulling the transmission dipstick and checking if it requires the transmission to be in neutral or park. You can do this by reading the dip stick usually near the fill line. Start your vehicle and run it through the gears ending in the recommended gear, set the parking brake and pull the dipstick, clean it off and recheck it for a proper reading (remember that transmission fluid expands when hot). If the fluid is in the checked area do not add. If you do need to add fluid be sure to use the correct type recommended for your vehicle and again do not overfill. I recommend never pulling the cap off your brake fluid. Brake fluid draws moisture from the air and can contaminate the system. If you think there is a problem with your brakes, have them checked by a certified brake specialist. You should not need any fluid added to your brakes unless you have a problem such as a leak or the brakes need to be replaced. Most new vehicles have a sensor built into the brake system that lets you know if you need brake work, and this is activated by the amount of fluid in the reservoir. By adding fluid you can do more damage than good. (Make sure you know what fluid it takes dot 4 and dot 5 are not compatible. Cars with Anti-lock brakes should get there fluid flushed every couple years or every 30,000 miles. A $1500.00 ABS module that went bad from dirty fluid can be avoided)

When the PCV valve is not working correctly it will suck the oil from the engine into the intake manifold and burn it. All fluids should be checked daily this way if fluid is low and no obvious leaks you can get it looked at before loosing an engine Answer Cars are allowed to burn oil. I wouldn't be concerned at all if my fleet vehicles were burning a quart every week. If you just checked the oil dipstick and its dry, it could be only one quart low, not bone dry. If you love your car you will check its oil every week, AT LEAST. It could be a leak. Check the oil pan drain plug for proper torque. You may want to check for sludge near the top of the oil pan under the car- then you will need to change out the oil pan gasket, and re torque the oil pan bolts. Then theres the oil seal in the side of the engine- that should be completely clean. If your changing the oil- you would want to see that the oil filter is intact and the oil filter gasket was present. Filters can break open easily on the highway if you get a rock or shrapnel under the chassis. New engines will burn oil because of newly honed cyliders/ bored holes. The used oil will have some more metals in there, but that's good when its new because your cyls have to break themselves in. New stuff just has to wear itself in to become a lubricated machine. Answer Since this is a new car under warranty, you need to take that question up with the dealership. They're going to look at the number of miles you've driven, as well as check a number of things on the vehicle. For example, they'll look for leaks, look for engine oil in the engine coolant (radiator), and hook up the diagostic computer to check for any telltale error codes that may be set. If the oil usage is normal, they'll tell you, and if there's a problem, it's their job to fix it. Haha you are screwed! Brand new car and you didn't check the oil?

6.25%

According to the related links below, intermittent wipers history of bad module under the hood upper driver side. Cost to replace just the part $80. or so. My mechanic soldered the wires back in place in module and saved me a bundle. Additional... If you are having wiper problems intermittently, you may have a loose connector at the wire harness-to-wiper motor interface. My 98 Blazer did after 8 years. Under the hood, at rear of engine compartment, near center, is the connector. Push it back in tightly, then put a cable tie/zip tie/ Ty-wrap on it and tighten carefully. Putting a wire around it and twisting the wire will last a little while, and then fail in a pouring rain like my first repair attempt. The cable ties won't creep loose. You could also go to your local Chevrolet dealer and ask them to check your VIN, they will tell you if your car has any recalls on it, not only the wiper. They will do it for free. Additional... Everything above is correct, but also note that GM had a big issue with wiper motors in all the trucks in that era, including the blazer, that all you needed to do is ground the motor with a separate wire (I usually did it from the cover bolt to the mounting bolt) and issue would go away. I know that some of them also had an issue with the PC board (Wiper motor pulse board) inside the motor that would get corroded and is a super easy fix, you can buy a new PC board for about $20, it is about 4-6 screws and it is done.

Just trying to help my sister Terri with her Corolla.Moe

Title insurance rates vary from state to state and market to market. In some states, the fees are set by the AGENT, and are market competitive -- they may be negotiated by the Agent. In other states, the rates and fees are regulated by that state's Department of Insurance and the fees may not be negotiated - higher or lower than the regulated fees. In both cases, the premium fees are calculated on a per $1000 rate. That rate is then based on whether the transaction is a "basic" rate, "re-issue" rate, "refinance" rate or "new construction" rate. Basic rate covers a policy issued on a Purchase transaction and usually calculated on the Purchase Price and the Mortgage Amount. Re-Issue rate covers a policy issued on a Purchase transaction and whether or not the Sellers can provide backtitle to the Buyers. The back title criteria is typically based on how old the Sellers' Owner's Policy is. (Usually a lower per $1000 rate than basic) Refinance rate covers a policy issued to the current owner on a Mortgage loan. Depending on the state, the previous mortgage amount may have a bearing on how the rate is calculated.(Usually a lower per $1000 rate than basic) New construction rates covers the builder during the construction of the property, before the construction is complete. (Usually a significantly lower rate than basic since the property is not a fully finished home/building during the time of coverage.) New construction rates do NOT cover a buyer purchasing a completed home from the builder, only the time the home is BEING constructed and covering the builder.

it will feel like a misfire but should not cause a single cylinder misfire code. a bad maf ( mass air flow ) would and can set random multiple misfire codes, lean bank 1 and 2 just like a clogged fuel filter or restricted exhaust ( cat )

Check your fuses. They are usually located in the glove box. They are easy to change and only cost about $5 for a box. Check your manual to see which fuse is for the lights, if the medal bar is broken you need a new fuse. I have a 1977 Chevy Impale,the brake light wan't work and when turn on the turn signal to right the left come on also.Do you know the problem. check the brake light switch,on the brake pedal. it may be out of adjustment or just plain faulty. I just recently had this fixed on my 2000 Pontiac Grand Prix. The brakes lights were out on both sides but worked in the rear glass. Ended up being the turn signal switch which for my car was a $350 part and with labor was a total of $507. Good Luck! You may have a short in your wireing. Also your wires might not be hooked up to your lights.check your plugs and if they are good you might want to take it in to a shop. it is common for your earth wire/s in the brake light plastic housing to have a bad connection and can be corrected by tightening the screw that fixes it to the housing.(located near where the bulb/s fit) On my LHS, it appears that the switch that connects to the brake pedal went out. Hence, all of the brake lights do not work. Something to check out as well in doing your diagnostics.

Remove the engine, strip off all the accessories and send it out to a machine shop for rebuilding.

If you follow the hoses from the compressor, one will lead to the dryer. One side of the dryer connects to the condenser, so look around it and the radiator. On my '99 SL2, it sits beneath the battery on the driver's side of the engine compartment. Hope this helps a little.

keep in mind that "total loss" only means that it costs more to repair your car than it is worth on the market. that 89 beretta that you had since highschool is probably a total loss from a monatary standpoint. but can it be fixed? of course it can. my wife had an 85 Buick skylark (x-car) that she thought was the greatest thing since sliced bread. we had over 6000 dollars in this 1200 dollar car(at the time) before she finally listened to me when i told her i could not do any more for this car. the rear shock towers were banging against the 1/4 panels. another example is my mother-in-laws 91 lesabre. she had a fender bender, got screwed by the insurance company, i ended up painting her car for 1700 dollars. o, don't it look pretty. 5 years later, her suspension has given up the ghost. it needs new springs, struts, etc. at that time, i told her it would cost about 2000 to fix the car, & she should consider getting a new one. she went ballistic. i ended up fixing her car & ate the labor. some things you do for family. Sure, if you have the tools and training, and get yourself a Factory Service Manual as well. yes, just make sure u know how to fix everything or take it somewhere that does... it takes money it is hard to do because usually they mark it as "totaled" since it is not worth the money to fix it..it canbe repaired, anything can be in Canada its called branded and that is what sneeky car dealers do . get these cars and put them back on the road buy getting mechs to sign papers that says its good to go . but in fact most of these cars are damage in the frame and do not handle good any more and are unsafe to drive , that's why it was takin off the road . would i trust a car like that , not in the world , a bone yard car is good for scrAP . In Most States a car that has been declared totaled by an insurance company cannot be legally repaired and put on the road. You'll find most of these cars are purchased by used car dealers that ship them across US borders to Mexico and Canada where they are repaired (If that's what you want to call it) and sold to un-suspecting motorists. HI! BOSSONE! HERE! YOU CAN FIX IT WITHOUT GOING TO THE SHOP BUT YOU MUST HAVE THE RIGHT TOOL S AND A PLACE WHERE CAN GET DOWN & DIRTY! ----------------------------------------------------------------------- Keep this in mind that anytime you repair/restore a vehicle that has been totaled by the insurance company. When you apply for a new title it will get what is referred to as a SALVAGE Title. This means the title must state that the vehicle has been salvaged from a total loss. You cannot sell it as a normally repaired wreck. ------------------------------------------------------------------------- In some states, once a vehicle has been declared a total loss by the insurance company the state motor vehicle department is notified and that's that. The VIN is recorded as a total loss and the vehicle may only be used for parts for other vehicles. In some states it is permissable to reconstruct a total loss, but the vehicle is titled as rebuilt from junk. You just need to contact your state's department that handles title and tags and ask them. Usually a vehicle is totaled when the cost of repair reaches 80% of value or amount owed on lien. It is not necessarily that the vehicle damage is more than what the car is worth but can be "totaled" because the frame or substructure of the car is damaged beyond repair. And if repaired, it would not meet the original safety requirements of the vehicle. It is not always a monetary thing. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ TOTAL LOST can be fix but there is not going to allow to run on the road, you have to export the vehicle out of the US REBUILD SALVAGE TITLE can be fix and they are allow to stay in the us but before you can get a title it will need to be inspect

"And veils"

Full PDF versions of the Owners Manual, Service Manual, and a supplement manual. Wiring diagram is in the service manual. http://www.mediafire.com/?0mzulnyzogg http://www.mediafire.com/?8zubjzjyioj http://www.mediafire.com/?34muedntyxz

A bucket for the parts that you pull.

about 2 inches with a case of beer

Most brake light switches ratchet into position and self-adjust. To reset the adjustment, press the brake pedal part way down & pull the switch out toward the pedal until it clicks several times.

Door locks Remove the inside door panel ( it's not as difficult as you may think) examine the lock and find the rods that connect the key part of the lock to the lock mechanism ( called the linkage) the linkage is usually connected by nylon or plastic clips. if nylon, just pop the clip back into place and you're done. If plastic or if the nylon clip is worn you will have to get a replacement from your dealer. they are relatively cheap and it's worth it to get an exact fit part. lastly if your dealer can't locate on, check a local salvage yard for a wreck that did not have the same door damaged. Something to think about More and more vehicles are coming with remote entry key fobs. When all you use is the keyless entry system door locks in some climates will seize up from lack of use. Have them lubed on a regular basis and use the key every once in a while to keep things moving. If you lube them youself make sure the window is in the up position as some aerosols will shoot a fair distance and if the window is down it can get on the window, smear it and get on the felt window guide and takes forever to wear off. If your automatic lock isn't working, here are 4 easy steps to repair car door lock. 1. Check the Least Obvious First It should be the most obvious, but most of the time we simply don't think of the auto key lock on our keychains. Called a key fob, it is operated by a battery that does wear out after several years of use. Replace the battery and then check it out by unlocking your doors. 2. Check Other Door Locks Before rushing to rip off the door panel and replacing wires and parts, check the other locks. Do they work? If not, then you have a blown fuse. If they do work, the problem is most likely in the door lock solenoid. 3. Work the Lock Manually While the key is on, work the door manually up and down while using the auto lock at the same time. If the lock tries to move, then it is a frozen lock mechanism. 4. Move Door Back And Forth Hold the lock button down while you move slowly open and close the door. If the lock works then you have a broken or frayed wire that needs to be changed or repaired. Try these tips for a quick way to repair car door lock. If these tips do not work and you can't find the problem, see a mechanic.

See "Related Links" below, for Autozone's on-line repair manual for 1996-1999 Taurus & Sable rear brake repair instructions. NOTE: Autozone now requires free registration to access the repair guides. More than worth the extra effort for these photo/illustrated instructions. REAR DISK BRAKE INSTALLATION Chock front wheels. Loosen (don't remove yet) the lug-nuts on rear wheels. Jack rear end of vehicle up. Place a jack-stand on each side of vehicle, to safely hold the entire weight of the vehicle (locate the proper jack points to avoid damage to parts under the vehicle) Lower the jack until the vehicle is resting on the jack-stands. Remove lug-nuts and wheels, exposing the braking system. Looking behind the rotor, locate the two 1/2 inch sized bolts holding the caliper in place. Remove the bolts, and the caliper will be disconnected from brake assembly (the caliper will still be attached to the vehicle by the brake hoses). The bracket your caliper was bolted to, can now be removed by two bolts facing the same way as the caliper bolts--they are 3/4 inch in size. Once the bracket is removed, the rotor can be removed easily. For best braking, the rotor(s) should be replaced or turned (cut/machined down) at a machine shop or your local auto parts store before replacement, as long as the rotor hasn't yet worn down to its minimum thickness (check your car's specifications). If the rotor has worn down to its minimum thickness, replace it with a new one. With caliper in hand, locate the piston that pushes the pads. This piston has to be pushed and turned in, to accommodate the new pads and/or rotor thickness. This can be done with a rotor tool (less than $10 at local part stores). This tool is a round piece of metal with two nubs on it. When placed on the piston, the nubs grab into it and is able to be turned with a ratchet, usually 3/8 drive. Replace the brake pads. Place rotor on lugs. Reinstall the caliper bracket. Place caliper over new pads and rotor. Reinstall wheel and lug-nuts. Jack up vehicle and remove the jack-stands, then lower jack. RE-TIGHTEN LUG NUTS! More Information: I suspect you are asking how do you replace disc brake pads....I also suspect you are having trouble pushing back the caliper piston so you can refit the caliper with the new thicker pads. You have no doubt tried to push the caliper back as in a conventional style front caliper and have found a lot of resistance. This is due to the mechanism associated with the park brake actuator. You should have a proper tool that allows you to push and also turn the piston so it threads its way back into the caliper. You might be able to push and turn with a rigged up C clamp, but you stand a good chance of messing things up without the proper tool. There is an aftermarket tool that fits a lot of caliper pistons that sells for about five dollars and saves a lot of grief. You will likely notice a couple of little indents on the piston...this is where the tool fits to enable turning while pushing. I used a C clamp and a pair of channel lock pliers to do this job. First attach the C clamp to the caliper tightly. Don't try to turn, because it won't. Next, grasp your pliers and turn the piston clockwise--be sure not to grab the rubber bushing or you may tear it, causing your caliper to leak from the puncture. As you turn, the C clamp will loosen. Stop turning and tighten the C clamp. Keep alternating between turning with the pliers and tightening the C clamp until the piston goes back in. You can use this method if you don't want to pay for the cheap tool, or if you have already started and your car is disassembled and you can't drive to the parts store. This second answer was a life-saver and worked like a champ. I live in Guam and the "special tool" would have either not been available or cost me a Hundred Bucks. I bent the handle on my C-clamp and my son was starting to think I didn't know what I was doing. After nothing more than a little grease on the keyboard, we got his car back up and running in no time. More on Compressing Rear Piston On the rear disc brake caliper piston there are two knotches (one on either side) that require a SPANNER type wrench to grab the piston. Turn the tool clockwise to screw the piston in, thereby making more room available for the new disc pads. If you were to actually remove the piston from the caliper assembly, you would see a threaded stud sticking out of the center of the hole in the caliper assembly that has ACME threads on it (the type of threads that you see on a "C" clamp or a VISE). I have used common plumbers pliers to grip the edge of the piston and turn it in clockwise, but the best way would be the correct tool made for the job. It is possible that an auto parts store will rent the tool or maybe a repair shop will rent the tool to you. AUTOZONE and ADVANCE may have a loaner tool and they don't cost anything to loan, just a returnable deposit. On the Taurus I have, it is the same as doing the front brakes: undo the two bolts on the upper half of the calipers, and this should give you some play room to get at the calipers to release them in order to remove them from the rotors. Collapse the calipers with a 6" clamp, which I found to be the easiest for a do-it-yourself job, and replace the brake pads. There really is no way to put in your new pads the wrong way--just make sure you have the pad part inward on both sides, not the metal. Then reverse the process. Make sure that the holes realign when tightening your bolts back on, or the obvious will happen and your little inexpensive job can become a bigger financial headache. Remember to bleed the brake line and add more brake fluid before you do. BEFORE REMOVING THE CAP ON THE BRAKE FLUID RESERVOIR TO PUT MORE FLUID IN, CLEAN THE CAP AND SURROUNDING AREA TO AVOID DEBRIS GETTING IN. Voila back in buisness! Rear disc: lift car & pull off wheels Remove the 2 bolts holding the caliper to the caliper bracket slider pins lift off caliper & pads and push & turn the piston back in till seated(tool available) Remove 2 bolts holding caliper bracket to the spindle and take it off Remove rotor, if stuck use a hammer to loosen At this time take the 2 slider pins out of the caliper bracket & lube them and clean the area the ends of the pads slide back & forth in & lube (grey antiseize or silicone brake lube). If they're seized you may have to heat them (without burning the rubber boots) to get them out. Clean & install new rotors, a little antiseize on the hub between hub & rotor is a good thing (make sure it's clean!) reinstall caliper bracket & tighten the 2 big bolts (12mm bolts) put pads in caliper bracket & slide caliper over them & tighten the two 8mm bolts into the caliper bracket slider pins. A light layer of silicone brake lube on the back of the pads where they contact the rotor housing will minimize squeals Clean any grease off of rotor surface as not to get it on the pads Tighten tires & lower the car Pump up the brake pedal before starting the car. If your emerg brake works, try it a few times. The common square tool that a few people refer to does NOT fit all Taurus rear disc pistons. I've had 3 Taurus mk2 and all of their pistons were indented with triangular indents. The knobs on all the common tools will not fit. There are a number of rear disc tool sets that some large auto stores will lend you. The commonest is called Powerfist. This is around 35 to buy in Canada or US. 2 was the most helpful in my opinion, but I did notice that nobody mentioned the TYPE of pads to use. Cheap composite pads will last only about 30,000 miles, -good ceramic pads cost twice as much, but will usually last up to 100,000 miles with rear disc brakes - I know which I always pick - -

What vehicle? (It is possible that if the transmission is conventionally controlled that there is a cable that connects throttle body to tranny and aids tranny to downshift under heavy acceleration.)

A clogged converter can. Easiest way to tell if your converter is stopped up is open the hood as night when the engine is operationally warm. The exhaust manifold will begin to glow red because they are so hot. It needs to be totally dark to see this. This is very bad for your engine. Replace the converter ASAP. Use a point and shoot thermometer. (Auto parts stores, A/C houses and others) surface of the exhaust manifold varies from 241oC for a minivan to 550oC for a passenger car. ( Temp above 560 C is a red flag)

Alpine offered up until last year the PDX-1000 wich is a 1000 Watts RMS amplifier designed with the type X subwoofer series in mind. Now the best match would be the PDX-M12. Set the amplifier gain carefully as this amplifier is a bit strong for this subwoofer.

Hatch

Because too old or get damaged If an engine is not tuned properly and allowed to run continuously, it can damage the cat by overheating and melting the catalyst inside causing an air restriction. The inside of the cat can also break up into pieces causing again an air restriction.

Here are opinions and answers from contributors: Tires out of balance or the "bushings" (not sure the technical term) are worn in the steering system. It could be faulty steering dampers. This is a shock that crosses from left to right connecting to tie rod ends. The shock is very firm and you will not be able to actuate it by hand if working properly. usually causes left to right steering oscillation at low to mid speeds. Warped brake rotors for cars with front disk brakes. The rotor hits the caliper every tire rotation causing a small bump in the steering wheel each time. Your tires might need to be rotated and balanced. In my "94" Intrepid it was worn out rubber isolaters which the bolts on the rack & pinion steering mounted through on the firewall. It was noticed at speeds over 35mph & resulted in feeling a violent shaking of the front tires felt through the steering wheel. Check tires should be balanced, alingned or probably a bent front tire. Most of the time its only bad front tires now the one guy was right it can be bad brake rotors but what he didnt tell you is there is 2 things for that 1 is the steering wheel shaking when you are braking if so then you have warped rotors another thing when you brake does the car pull to the right or the left if so that will determine what rotor is bad and for but if it doesnt shake while braking that could mean your tires are cupped in the front or there not balanced properly. Depends when the wheel shakes. If it is during braking then your rotors are warped. If it is durinig normal driving then yes it could be bent rim, loose/worn suspension components. A balance problem is usually indicated by vibration in the vehicle not usually a shaky steering wheel. It may also be that the steering gear is badly worn which causes greater than normal spaces between the meshing parts. Out of balance wheels, bent rim, shifted belt in tire or other defect in tire including irregular wear (tire rotation under these conditions will on move the vibration felt), loose lug nuts, worn inner tie rod end bushings like mentioned on Chrysler product above, loose mounted or internal play in the rack and pinion steering gear. Wheel Alignment or Front end Alignment will not cause a vibration. CV joint could cause this. Or a bent rim, which balancing will not fix. Check the lug nuts on all your tires. That did it for me. Shaking could also occur from camber being ofset as well as all! The other answers given above. Just had the same thing and it turned out to be worn struts which had caused my tire to wear unevenly (flattening one side of the tire). That caused shimmy at higher speeds. Also try new CV boots or a driveshaft replacement