• Change Transmission filter-30,000 miles, 90,000 and 150,000 miles and fluid at 60,000, 120,000 and 180,000 miles.
• Change oil every 3,000 miles or 3 months, unless you use Mobil One, in which case 6 months/6,000 miles.
• Chassis lube every 3,000 miles, assuming there are fittings.
• Spark plugs: Conventional plugs: 30,000 miles, Double platinum: every 50,000 miles (100,000 mile plugs are best to be changed well before that, although some can reach it).
• Fuel filter: 35,000-40,000 miles. Unless it is in the tank. But if the tank is ever dropped, do it then
• Ignition cap, rotor, wires: 60,000-80,000 miles. (if it has them).
• Timing Belt, if applicible: 60,000 miles on many but check with gates or dayco or the manual or dealer, as many different intervals are now present.
• Coolant flush -- green: 2 years/24,000 miles.
• Coolant flush -- dex-cool or long life: 5 years/50,000 miles.
• Tire rotation: 5,000-8,000 miles.
• Alignment: 15,000-20,000 miles., unless tire wear is not a problem and car goes straight.
• Brake fluid flush and power steering fluid flush: 2 years or when dirty or discolored.
• Air filter, pcv valve and cabin air filter: as needed.
• Professional fuel injection service: 40,000 miles.
• Throttle bore plate cleaning: 20,000 miles.
• Air induction service: 20,000 miles.

According to the related links below, intermittent wipers history of bad module under the hood upper driver side. Cost to replace just the part $80. or so. My mechanic soldered the wires back in place in module and saved me a bundle.

Additional...

If you are having wiper problems intermittently, you may have a loose connector at the wire harness-to-wiper motor interface. My 98 Blazer did after 8 years. Under the hood, at rear of engine compartment, near center, is the connector. Push it back in tightly, then put a cable tie/zip tie/ Ty-wrap on it and tighten carefully. Putting a wire around it and twisting the wire will last a little while, and then fail in a pouring rain like my first repair attempt. The cable ties won't creep loose.

You could also go to your local Chevrolet dealer and ask them to check your VIN, they will tell you if your car has any recalls on it, not only the wiper. They will do it for free.

Additional...

Everything above is correct, but also note that GM had a big issue with wiper motors in all the trucks in that era, including the blazer, that all you needed to do is ground the motor with a separate wire (I usually did it from the cover bolt to the mounting bolt) and issue would go away. I know that some of them also had an issue with the PC board (Wiper motor pulse board) inside the motor that would get corroded and is a super easy fix, you can buy a new PC board for about $20, it is about 4-6 screws and it is done.

When the PCV valve is not working correctly it will suck the oil from the engine into the intake manifold and burn it. All fluids should be checked daily this way if fluid is low and no obvious leaks you can get it looked at before loosing an engine

Haha you are screwed! Brand new car and you didn't check the oil?

Recommendations from the WikiAnswrs community.

NEVER use silicone sealer on an oil pan gasket or any other composite or rubber gasket. (Most people call composite gaskets cork gaskets because they contain some cork but pure cork gaskets have not been used for oil pan applications for more than 50 years.) Use of silicone sealer on an oil pan gasket will dramatically increase the chances for a leak and make it harder to get the proper torque on all the bolts around the pan. Let the gasket do the sealing job it was designed to do.

• Trust me if you do it yourself YOU WILL HAVE AN OIL LEAK! there is more to it then 123, you will also need to know how much to pressure to put on the bolts. Please just take it to a shop.

• It is not "for sure" that you will have a leak if you do it yourself. Don't let a dealer rip you off. Buy a repair manual for your car. Follow the directions. Take the pan off after draining the oil. Clean off the old gasket material, install the new gasket using silicone sealant and tighten the bolts with the correct tightening sequence(pattern), which it should say in the manual. The tightening sequence is vital when replacing any gasket.

• It also depends on what kinda of vehicle you want to do this on. On one particular vehicle the only way to get the oil pan off was to lift the engine (I'm not kiddin') and another one you had to take a part of the exhaust out of the way to get at it.... anyway, ya, other than the few pain in the butt ones, the rest ain't so hard. 1)drain the oil 2)remove the bolts 3) scrape away old gasket material or sealer from both surfaces (being careful not to scar them) 4) Clean the oil pan well (you don't want any extra junk in there when you put it back on. 5) Put on sealer/gasket 6)put bolts on 7) If you can find the proper tightening specifications, then go right ahead and do it, but if not, and you don't have some idea, then it's best to take it to a shop. Cork gaskets should be tightened to about 100 inch pounds (max 120, 100 being safe). I recommend using a torque wrench. It's best that you replace the oil filter too since the oil is already out and .... why not.

• Some people can actually follow directions and do things themselves. People wouldn't be so broke if they realized simple things like this can be done by an average person. I have never done this but I imagine that it is really easy and as simple as the 1,2,3 steps above. The only issue would be getting a clean surface. When I was doing my differentials I used brake cleaner i think to get rid of the oil. I'm not sure if it would work in this case but you do need a clean surface free of oil to get a good seal and yes not tighten the bolts too much.

well it all depends on the vehicle,some engines you will have to raise the engine to allow clearance to remove the pan after removing the bolts,and even some may have to be raised higher that others because of the oil pick-up tube,the tube plugs into the oil pump and sets close to the bottom of the pan,usually in the lowest part of the pan by the oil drain plug,after removing the pan,you must clean off all the old gasket from the pan and the engine,and its a good idea to change the rubber seal on the bottom of the timing chain cover,after affixing the new gasket to the pan or engine block,some times it works better to use some gasket sealer under one side of the gasket to hold it into place,but i wouldn't use silicon because it will turn to rubber and you will have leaks before long,use gasket sealer,it's tacky and will hold the gasket in place,and if you need to move the gasket a little you will be able too,when tighten the bolts do not over torque the bolts because you may mash the gasket in half or bend the pan,you can find the torque pattern in a manual ,it will show you the sequence to tighten the bolts and will show you how many pounds of torque to tighten the bolts,and after you run the engine for awhile,,you may want to re-check the torque on the bolts to make sure they are still tighten to the correct pressure

The Truth is... There is no way this question can be answered accurately without knowing more about your application. Some engines will require removal (or at least elevating the engine a few inches) to get the oil pan out.

Most modern engines will allow the following, being front wheel drive. RWD's will probably need to have the engine lifted.

Replacing an Oil Pan Gasket

• Disconnect negative cable from battery.
• Drain oil through plug located at the bottom of oil pan.
• Remove bolts around edge of the oil pan. There are probably around 8 of them.
• Drop oil pan.
• Clean gasket material from both block and oil pan.
• Install new gasket.

Something to think about

More and more vehicles are coming with remote entry key fobs. When all you use is the keyless entry system door locks in some climates will seize up from lack of use. Have them lubed on a regular basis and use the key every once in a while to keep things moving. If you lube them youself make sure the window is in the up position as some aerosols will shoot a fair distance and if the window is down it can get on the window, smear it and get on the felt window guide and takes forever to wear off.

If your automatic lock isn't working, here are 4 easy steps to repair car door lock.

1. Check the Least Obvious First

It should be the most obvious, but most of the time we simply don't think of the auto key lock on our keychains. Called a key fob, it is operated by a battery that does wear out after several years of use. Replace the battery and then check it out by unlocking your doors.

2. Check Other Door Locks

Before rushing to rip off the door panel and replacing wires and parts, check the other locks. Do they work? If not, then you have a blown fuse. If they do work, the problem is most likely in the door lock solenoid.

3. Work the Lock Manually

While the key is on, work the door manually up and down while using the auto lock at the same time. If the lock tries to move, then it is a frozen lock mechanism.

4. Move Door Back And Forth

Hold the lock button down while you move slowly open and close the door. If the lock works then you have a broken or frayed wire that needs to be changed or repaired.

Try these tips for a quick way to repair car door lock. If these tips do not work and you can't find the problem, see a mechanic.

keep in mind that "total loss" only means that it costs more to repair your car than it is worth on the market. that 89 beretta that you had since highschool is probably a total loss from a monatary standpoint. but can it be fixed? of course it can. my wife had an 85 Buick skylark (x-car) that she thought was the greatest thing since sliced bread. we had over 6000 dollars in this 1200 dollar car(at the time) before she finally listened to me when i told her i could not do any more for this car. the rear shock towers were banging against the 1/4 panels. another example is my mother-in-laws 91 lesabre. she had a fender bender, got screwed by the insurance company, i ended up painting her car for 1700 dollars. o, don't it look pretty. 5 years later, her suspension has given up the ghost. it needs new springs, struts, etc. at that time, i told her it would cost about 2000 to fix the car, & she should consider getting a new one. she went ballistic. i ended up fixing her car & ate the labor. some things you do for family.

Sure, if you have the tools and training, and get yourself a Factory Service Manual as well.

yes, just make sure u know how to fix everything or take it somewhere that does... it takes money

it is hard to do because usually they mark it as "totaled" since it is not worth the money to fix it..it canbe repaired, anything can be

in Canada its called branded and that is what sneeky car dealers do . get these cars and put them back on the road buy getting mechs to sign papers that says its good to go . but in fact most of these cars are damage in the frame and do not handle good any more and are unsafe to drive , that's why it was takin off the road . would i trust a car like that , not in the world , a bone yard car is good for scrAP .

In Most States a car that has been declared totaled by an insurance company cannot be legally repaired and put on the road. You'll find most of these cars are purchased by used car dealers that ship them across US borders to Mexico and Canada where they are repaired (If that's what you want to call it) and sold to un-suspecting motorists.

HI! BOSSONE! HERE! YOU CAN FIX IT WITHOUT GOING TO THE SHOP BUT YOU MUST HAVE THE RIGHT TOOL S AND A PLACE WHERE CAN GET DOWN & DIRTY!

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Keep this in mind that anytime you repair/restore a vehicle that has been totaled by the insurance company. When you apply for a new title it will get what is referred to as a SALVAGE Title. This means the title must state that the vehicle has been salvaged from a total loss. You cannot sell it as a normally repaired wreck.

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In some states, once a vehicle has been declared a total loss by the insurance company the state motor vehicle department is notified and that's that. The VIN is recorded as a total loss and the vehicle may only be used for parts for other vehicles. In some states it is permissable to reconstruct a total loss, but the vehicle is titled as rebuilt from junk. You just need to contact your state's department that handles title and tags and ask them.

Usually a vehicle is totaled when the cost of repair reaches 80% of value or amount owed on lien.

It is not necessarily that the vehicle damage is more than what the car is worth but can be "totaled" because the frame or substructure of the car is damaged beyond repair. And if repaired, it would not meet the original safety requirements of the vehicle.

It is not always a monetary thing.

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TOTAL LOST can be fix but there is not going to allow to run on the road, you have to export the vehicle out of the US

REBUILD SALVAGE TITLE can be fix and they are allow to stay in the us but before you can get a title it will need to be inspect

See "Related Links" below, for Autozone's on-line repair manual for 1996-1999 Taurus & Sable rear brake repair instructions.

NOTE: Autozone now requires free registration to access the repair guides. More than worth the extra effort for these photo/illustrated instructions.

REAR DISK BRAKE INSTALLATION

1. Chock front wheels.
2. Loosen (don't remove yet) the lug-nuts on rear wheels.
3. Jack rear end of vehicle up.
4. Place a jack-stand on each side of vehicle, to safely hold the entire weight of the vehicle (locate the proper jack points to avoid damage to parts under the vehicle)
5. Lower the jack until the vehicle is resting on the jack-stands.
6. Remove lug-nuts and wheels, exposing the braking system.
7. Looking behind the rotor, locate the two 1/2 inch sized bolts holding the caliper in place. Remove the bolts, and the caliper will be disconnected from brake assembly (the caliper will still be attached to the vehicle by the brake hoses).
8. The bracket your caliper was bolted to, can now be removed by two bolts facing the same way as the caliper bolts--they are 3/4 inch in size.
9. Once the bracket is removed, the rotor can be removed easily.
10. For best braking, the rotor(s) should be replaced or turned (cut/machined down) at a machine shop or your local auto parts store before replacement, as long as the rotor hasn't yet worn down to its minimum thickness (check your car's specifications). If the rotor has worn down to its minimum thickness, replace it with a new one.
11. With caliper in hand, locate the piston that pushes the pads. This piston has to be pushed and turned in, to accommodate the new pads and/or rotor thickness. This can be done with a rotor tool (less than $10 at local part stores). This tool is a round piece of metal with two nubs on it. When placed on the piston, the nubs grab into it and is able to be turned with a ratchet, usually 3/8 drive.
12. Replace the brake pads.
13. Place rotor on lugs.
14. Reinstall the caliper bracket.
15. Place caliper over new pads and rotor.
16. Reinstall wheel and lug-nuts.
17. Jack up vehicle and remove the jack-stands, then lower jack.
18. RE-TIGHTEN LUG NUTS!

More Information:

I suspect you are asking how do you replace disc brake pads....I also suspect you are having trouble pushing back the caliper piston so you can refit the caliper with the new thicker pads. You have no doubt tried to push the caliper back as in a conventional style front caliper and have found a lot of resistance. This is due to the mechanism associated with the park brake actuator. You should have a proper tool that allows you to push and also turn the piston so it threads its way back into the caliper. You might be able to push and turn with a rigged up C clamp, but you stand a good chance of messing things up without the proper tool.

There is an aftermarket tool that fits a lot of caliper pistons that sells for about five dollars and saves a lot of grief. You will likely notice a couple of little indents on the piston...this is where the tool fits to enable turning while pushing.

I used a C clamp and a pair of channel lock pliers to do this job. First attach the C clamp to the caliper tightly. Don't try to turn, because it won't. Next, grasp your pliers and turn the piston clockwise--be sure not to grab the rubber bushing or you may tear it, causing your caliper to leak from the puncture. As you turn, the C clamp will loosen. Stop turning and tighten the C clamp. Keep alternating between turning with the pliers and tightening the C clamp until the piston goes back in. You can use this method if you don't want to pay for the cheap tool, or if you have already started and your car is disassembled and you can't drive to the parts store.

This second answer was a life-saver and worked like a champ. I live in Guam and the "special tool" would have either not been available or cost me a Hundred Bucks. I bent the handle on my C-clamp and my son was starting to think I didn't know what I was doing. After nothing more than a little grease on the keyboard, we got his car back up and running in no time.

More on Compressing Rear Piston On the rear disc brake caliper piston there are two knotches (one on either side) that require a SPANNER type wrench to grab the piston. Turn the tool clockwise to screw the piston in, thereby making more room available for the new disc pads. If you were to actually remove the piston from the caliper assembly, you would see a threaded stud sticking out of the center of the hole in the caliper assembly that has ACME threads on it (the type of threads that you see on a "C" clamp or a VISE). I have used common plumbers pliers to grip the edge of the piston and turn it in clockwise, but the best way would be the correct tool made for the job. It is possible that an auto parts store will rent the tool or maybe a repair shop will rent the tool to you. AUTOZONE and ADVANCE may have a loaner tool and they don't cost anything to loan, just a returnable deposit.

On the Taurus I have, it is the same as doing the front brakes: undo the two bolts on the upper half of the calipers, and this should give you some play room to get at the calipers to release them in order to remove them from the rotors. Collapse the calipers with a 6" clamp, which I found to be the easiest for a do-it-yourself job, and replace the brake pads. There really is no way to put in your new pads the wrong way--just make sure you have the pad part inward on both sides, not the metal. Then reverse the process. Make sure that the holes realign when tightening your bolts back on, or the obvious will happen and your little inexpensive job can become a bigger financial headache. Remember to bleed the brake line and add more brake fluid before you do. BEFORE REMOVING THE CAP ON THE BRAKE FLUID RESERVOIR TO PUT MORE FLUID IN, CLEAN THE CAP AND SURROUNDING AREA TO AVOID DEBRIS GETTING IN. Voila back in buisness!

Rear disc: lift car & pull off wheels Remove the 2 bolts holding the caliper to the caliper bracket slider pins lift off caliper & pads and push & turn the piston back in till seated(tool available) Remove 2 bolts holding caliper bracket to the spindle and take it off Remove rotor, if stuck use a hammer to loosen At this time take the 2 slider pins out of the caliper bracket & lube them and clean the area the ends of the pads slide back & forth in & lube (grey antiseize or silicone brake lube). If they're seized you may have to heat them (without burning the rubber boots) to get them out. Clean & install new rotors, a little antiseize on the hub between hub & rotor is a good thing (make sure it's clean!) reinstall caliper bracket & tighten the 2 big bolts (12mm bolts) put pads in caliper bracket & slide caliper over them & tighten the two 8mm bolts into the caliper bracket slider pins. A light layer of silicone brake lube on the back of the pads where they contact the rotor housing will minimize squeals Clean any grease off of rotor surface as not to get it on the pads

Tighten tires & lower the car Pump up the brake pedal before starting the car.

If your emerg brake works, try it a few times.

The common square tool that a few people refer to does NOT fit all Taurus rear disc pistons. I've had 3 Taurus mk2 and all of their pistons were indented with triangular indents. The knobs on all the common tools will not fit. There are a number of rear disc tool sets that some large auto stores will lend you. The commonest is called Powerfist. This is around 35 to buy in Canada or US.

2 was the most helpful in my opinion, but I did notice that nobody mentioned the TYPE of pads to use. Cheap composite pads will last only about 30,000 miles, -good ceramic pads cost twice as much, but will usually last up to 100,000 miles with rear disc brakes - I know which I always pick - -

Here are opinions and answers from contributors:

• Tires out of balance or the "bushings" (not sure the technical term) are worn in the steering system.

• It could be faulty steering dampers. This is a shock that crosses from left to right connecting to tie rod ends. The shock is very firm and you will not be able to actuate it by hand if working properly. usually causes left to right steering oscillation at low to mid speeds.

• Warped brake rotors for cars with front disk brakes. The rotor hits the caliper every tire rotation causing a small bump in the steering wheel each time.

• Your tires might need to be rotated and balanced.

• In my "94" Intrepid it was worn out rubber isolaters which the bolts on the rack & pinion steering mounted through on the firewall. It was noticed at speeds over 35mph & resulted in feeling a violent shaking of the front tires felt through the steering wheel.

• Check tires should be balanced, alingned or probably a bent front tire.

• Most of the time its only bad front tires now the one guy was right it can be bad brake rotors but what he didnt tell you is there is 2 things for that 1 is the steering wheel shaking when you are braking if so then you have warped rotors another thing when you brake does the car pull to the right or the left if so that will determine what rotor is bad and for but if it doesnt shake while braking that could mean your tires are cupped in the front or there not balanced properly.

• Depends when the wheel shakes. If it is during braking then your rotors are warped. If it is durinig normal driving then yes it could be bent rim, loose/worn suspension components. A balance problem is usually indicated by vibration in the vehicle not usually a shaky steering wheel. It may also be that the steering gear is badly worn which causes greater than normal spaces between the meshing parts.

• Out of balance wheels, bent rim, shifted belt in tire or other defect in tire including irregular wear (tire rotation under these conditions will on move the vibration felt), loose lug nuts, worn inner tie rod end bushings like mentioned on Chrysler product above, loose mounted or internal play in the rack and pinion steering gear. Wheel Alignment or Front end Alignment will not cause a vibration.

• CV joint could cause this.

• Or a bent rim, which balancing will not fix.

• Check the lug nuts on all your tires. That did it for me.

• Shaking could also occur from camber being ofset as well as all! The other answers given above.

• Just had the same thing and it turned out to be worn struts which had caused my tire to wear unevenly (flattening one side of the tire). That caused shimmy at higher speeds.

• Also try new CV boots or a driveshaft replacement