No, NASCAR engines are cooled by water. Ethylene glycol cannot be used due to the fact that if there is a wreck, the track will remain slick in that area and a hazard. In addition, it would not be good for the environment.

Defective starter solenoid.

It's the key or ignition or both I speak from experience I had the EXACT problem.I checked the battery,the starter,silinoid,starter relay and nothing.Everything was still good.I took it to a Ford dealer and had my key replacedand vehicle reprogramed.It worked

Deactivating/activating the belt minder feature

Read steps 1 - 9 thoroughly before proceeding with the

deactivation/activation programming procedure.

The Belt Minder feature can be deactivated/activated by performing the

following procedure:

Before following the procedure, make sure that:

² the parking brake is set

² the gearshift is in P (Park) (automatic transmission).

² the ignition switch is in the OFF position

² all vehicle doors are closed

² the driver's safety belt is unbuckled

² the parklamps/headlamps are in OFF position (If vehicle is equipped

with Autolamps, this will not affect the procedure.)

To reduce the risk of injury, do not deactivate/activate the Belt

Minder feature while driving the vehicle.

1. Turn the ignition switch to the RUN (or ON) position. (DO NOT

START THE ENGINE)

2. Wait until the safety belt warning light turns off. (Approximately 1

minute)

² Steps 3--5 must be completed within 60 seconds or the procedure will

have to be repeated.

3. Buckle then unbuckle the safety belt three times, ending with the

safety belt unbuckled. This can be done before or during Belt Minder

warning activation.

4. Turn on the parklamps/headlamps, turn off the parklamps/headlamps.

5. Buckle then unbuckle the safety belt three times, ending with the

safety belt unbuckled.

² After step 5 the safety belt warning light will be turned on for three

seconds.

6. Within seven seconds of the safety belt warning light turning off,

buckle then unbuckle the safety belt.

² This will disable Belt Minder if it is currently enabled, or enable Belt

Minder if it is currently disabled.

7. Confirmation of disabling Belt Minder is provided by flashing the

safety belt warning light four times per second for three seconds.

8. Confirmation of enabling Belt Minder is provided by flashing the safety

belt warning light four times per second for three seconds, followed by

three seconds with the safety belt warning light off, then followed by

flashing the safety belt warning light four times per second for three

seconds again.

9. After receiving confirmation, the deactivation/activation procedure is

complete.

Automotive school around - $20,000

Factory Certified training (ford fact/bmw step)- $15,000 - $20,000

Tools/tool boxes - $20,000 - $100,000

Not enough that you would ever notice.

depends from where...! OMG! ask at the postoffice!

They make about 630,000

I need the diagram for reassembly of the steering column of a 1990 Ford F150 Pick up truck.

Replaced my ignition actuator arm on my 302 engine in 90 F-150, and found this website which was very helpful. Stolenandrecovered.com

Step by step photographs which walked me thru the process without tearing

up anything. I have had some difficulty getting my turn signals to work again

and that may be some minor adjustment I have yet to figure out.

but check out this web site. Any vehicle ignition in column is listed.

Bring to a shop that has an ABS scanner to determine the problem

If you look under the car,you see a pan with a bolt sticking out of it either on the forward side or the rear of it.once you find the bolt that is the oil pan. If you see two such pans, it is the one in front.

It is like a syringe, the needle used when giving a shot. Fluid is in the cylinder and the clutch or brake pedal pushes in and forces brake fluid into the lines and then to the brakes or clutch. It is a closed system with fluid in all the lines so the pressure from the pedal is transferred to the brakes or clutch.

Go back to the basics, look at fuel delivery, ignition and compression. If you have all 3 and everything is adjusted properly, the engine will start. Try spraying a little starting fluid into the air intake while someone is trying to start the engine. If the engine briefly catches while you're spraying starting fluid, the problem is fuel delivery.

From the following website. http://www.evanscooling.com/articles/aug98oc.htm Modern cars, like many of those built after 1955, started using pressurized cooling systems. The benefit was that, for every pound of pressure created in the cooling system, the boiling point of the water was raised by three degrees. By sealing up the cooling system, and adding pressure, the boiling point of the water was raised. Then, the engine could be operated at a higher temperature and operated more efficiently. Today, most modern cars use a 16-lb. cap to raise the boiling point 48 degrees higher than the normal 212 degree boiling point.

there s a cover over it is black or should be it has about 8 screws 8mm socket right on top ogf the engine it should say 16v zetec on it u take that cover off and u will see the spark plug wires

Check the alternator. Put a new battery in it or check the alternater.

Evap control systems are often times difficult to diagnose. Try using information here: http://www.gearchatter.com/viewpost17788.php If that is more than you want to deal with you may want to take it to a good mechanic.

I have a 94 buick century the speedometer doesn't work n it has a hard time shifting from 1st gear to 2nd gear it makes a funky noise. would like to find out what I can do

Sounds to me the speed sensor is at fault.

take it to the nearest Saturn or GM dealer to have it looked at

the only thing you can do is take it to the dealer. There are to many things that could be going on with the system and you do not want to fool with it.

1. Super Glue 2. Depoxy Steel Glue 3. Finest waterproof sand paper 4. Vinyl paint matching your Dashboard 5. Painter's tape (Paper tape) 6. Vinyl piece or a plastic piece with a texture on it, similar to your dash. 7. A few clean rags 8. A fine tipped paint brush 9. A small flexible and flat piece of steel or plastic which you can use to apply the depoxy First clean the surface with a damp rag, leave car in sun to get it dry nicely. For Hairline cracks: Just tape around crack and take super glue and apply as little as possible so that the drops sink into the crack. After applying a few drops press around the crack to move it so the glue sinks in. Wait 10 - 15 mins ...... Nore you wait the better the results!! Go and have coffee or talk to a relative! Come back and see if the glue has sunk deeper than the dash surface or not. If yes apply a few drops more to make it level or a micomilimeter above. Again ... go and do something! Come back feel with your finger and get a clue as how much extra glue you want to sand off. Take the fine snad paper and fold a piece and using the corner of it start to scrape off the extra bit if the crack still shows, take the paint brush and apply little vinyl paint over the crack. If you have a spray can, spray on a clean surface and use a brush to pick and apply paint. Dont spray directly. Let it dry ..... and then take the tape of and there you have it :) .... If you feel the repaired crack is shinier than the dash around it, take the sandpaper and with the corner again just pass over the area gently, only to make it dull. For Gaping cracks: Tape around, mix depoxy steel glue and fill the gaping crack with it using the flexible plastic or metal piece, take off any extra glue immediately. Press around the crack to make it sink. Now the hard part :( .... You have to leave it like that for a day! Next day take sand paper and sand off any extra depoxy. Take any piece of plastic and apply a drop of super glue and spread it and note how many seconds does it take for the super glue to become thick and gooey (is that how you spell it?) Now take the super glue and apply a thin coat over the filled crack and after the calculated amount of time / seconds have passed put the piece of vinyl with texture on it, press firmly for a couple of seconds and take off immediately. This will give the repair some texture. Paint over the repaird crack and sand gently if too shiny. This is how I repaired mine and not just I but all my family and friends could not believe that it was the same old dashboard :)

The fuse box is located under the dash on the drivers side, on the side. On the 2001 Chevy Tracker it is a 10amp fuse and it is marked DOM. To reset the radio or CD player pull the fuse out with a pair of needle nose pliers for 10 sec. and push it back in. This should reset the radio, clock and CD player.

Oil pumps can cost from $80 to $200. It all depends on which vehicle you have.

should not be more than an hours labour (usually around £30 mark) you could do it yourself if you got a set of spanners/sockets as rocker gaskets are an easy diy job, undo the retaining bolts ontop of the rockercover, remove any pipes attached (remember where they go if more than 1, could use tipex to mark) when there is nothing obscuring it from being removed give it a tap with a hammer and replace the gasket, do not over tighten the gasket bolts, check tightness before removing to give you an idea of torque

symptoms of a bad sensor will be , engine cutting out then starting again as you drive. cutting out then being able to restart when vehicle is stopped. hard starting. if left long enuff before replacing, you will not be able to restart

You will have to look under the car's engine compartment. On the passenger side, look (or feel) behind the large coolant hose going to the radiator. There is the low pressure service port for the A/C. Good luck getting the hose connected...