remove the ram air cover under hood. there are 2 L shaped brackets that hold each headlight in car. lift / pry these out using pliers to gain access to rear of headlight.
secondary backup lamps
Remove secondary backup lite retaining nuts.
Remove secondary backup lite assembly.
Push secondary backup lite assembly outward from rear fascia.
Remove the socket. Twist socket and pull outward.
Remove the bulb. Twist the bulb and pull outward.
License plate lamps
Remove the license lamp retaining screws.
Remove the socket.
Remove the bulb.
open the hood and take the black plastic off that covers the top of the lights ans look around the light for two tabs to pull up on and it should fall out but its a little troubesome getting back in.
I recently view many idea's on the internet in how to change your head lamp on your 2001 Pontiac grand am. I also responded to this same web page and answer the question by explaining the way from underneath the fender well and reaching up to the lamp for removal. Well skip that idea, yeah it's possible, I did it, but the other guy had it right!
All you need for tools is this: Channel locks or pliers, a trim tool that looks like a forked screw driver cost $8.99 at the auto parts( and you can use a flat head screw driver if you are careful), a flat head screw driver,eye protection,and your fingers and that's it!
First lift the hood and it does not matter which side of the lamp bulb you have to replace. Take your trim tool or screw driver(careful with screw driver) and pop the head up, not the washer part on the plastic pin retainers on the plastic ram shield that covers the radiator. Note: all the pins are not the same, the fatter pins go in the bigger holes, and the skinner ones in the small holes when you put the shield back together.
Now go to the head light assembly and look on top from one side to the other and you will see a metal tab on each side ( total of two tabs)Now you can try with your finger first, or use the pliers. Grab a hold of the tab and gently push away from you and at the same time pull up. When both tabs are pulled up about 1/2 way up or so, your head light assembly is ready to be pulled out. Now care fully angle it out so you can see the lamp bulb clip. Now don't worry you did not mess up your head lamp alignment, they are adjust by the small screws. Now take a screw driver and gently lift up working both sides in pulling the electrical plug wiring out from the lamp bulb. Then careful unscrew the plastic ring retainer and slide it out of the way and then remove the bulb by turning a little and pulling it out. Note: Don't break the fins on the big plastic ring retainer because if you do, that's a dealership item and it will roughly cost you $12.00 and hope that the nearest dealership has it! Second, when you install the new bulb, don't touch the lamp bulb glass area, this will add your oil base finger marks and will shorten the bulb life span. Third, make sure you wear safety glasses, if the bulb does break when you remove or install you will receive eye damage from the elements that make the lamp bulbs. Just be careful!
Now put the new bulb in and the plactic ring retainer, plug in the wiring. Now since you completed that part let's put it back together. All I need to say is this, when you put the head lamp assembly back in, apply a little pressure while pushing the clips down. Examine first where the holes are inside the frame where the clips grab the head lamp assembly. Now put the shield back in its flexable bend it in the corners and put the plastic pins in. That's it! The whole process should take you 15-20 minutes or less, and it's not that hard.
I forgot the guy's name, so credit goes to the man that I read this information on the website!
Open up the hood, and go in behind the fixture where the light is located. Sometimes there is an access panel on top. Open it and reach down inside and grab the bulb's socket. Twist the socket a quarter turn counter clockwise, and pull out the socket. Grab the bulb, and pull it straight out. To replace the new bulb, never touch it with your bare fingers, as this will greatly shorten the bulb's life, if it even work's at all. Use a tissue or something else in that order to handle the new bulb. Push the new bulb into the socket, put the socket back into the housing, and twist a quarter turn clockwise to secure the socket into the fixture
My wife has a 2001 Pontiac Grand Am. The drivers side headlamp went out so I tried to change it.I quickly learned that this was not as easy as I thought. It frustrated me for a while. The alternative was to take the car to a repair shop and pay the outrageous prices for parts and labor. At most libraries there is an automotive section. If they don't have a manual for your car,they can go online an search repair manuals;i our case, replacing the driver side head lamp bulb. You have to take the air deflector off. this is located under the hood on the front wall.It's held in place by about six plastic fasteners.You will see 2 metal retainers these must be slipped out . One will come all the way out ,the other will swing up out of yourway.Then you can lift the headlamp assembly away far enough to change the bulb. If not e-mail me and I can scan and e-mail you thdiagrams I got from the library. (firstname.lastname@example.org)
Additional text from Brennan Haley:
Thank you for the awesome advice not included in the owner's manual. Here's some additional stuff I found when doing mine. The six plastic fasteners (mine had eight) look just like nipples, please excuse my french. The nipple is separate from the aereola and if you use pliers to pull up on the nipple about a quarter of an inch, the rest of the fastener will pop out easier, usually you can do it just by hand. Once the whole thing is out, you can see how the two pieces work. Replacing them is just the opposite. Make sure the nipple is still out, and the fastener will pop back in easy. Then push down on the nipple, and it'll secure itself in there.
The two metal fasteners have little notches on them, so you have to push them away from yourself as you pull up, so the notches clear the plastic holder. I found that out the hard way, and cracked one of the plastic holders - doh!
I miss the old style headlights, they were easier than this to replace.
Just an add on after changing my drivers side headlight. The two metal fasteners are on either side of the headlight. The one on the left is the one to remove completely. The one on the left only moves up about an inch.
thanks for the tip, guys. could not have done it without reading your advices. one more thing i could add is when you pull out the L shaped clip, you need to push it forword a bit before pulling it. otherwise, it would not come out. someone mentioned it earlier...
be careful taking out the acutal bulb. the housing ring(?) broke in mine so i had to duct tape it back in...cheap plastic all over...
all in all, i see why GM is struggling for market share are almost bankrupt. they make crappy car. IMHO, i will never will i buy domestic cars again.
hey everyone...first thing's first! make sure that you understand that the entire headlight assembly(s) come forward and out. that is why you have to pop the metal tabs up, to allow the whole light to come out the front. then, you remove the bulb from the light assembly while in your hands, or resting on the front bumper. once you realize that, it's a simple process. good luck to you all!
-A. Baker and Dad (ok mostly Dad)
Take it to the dealer. All this crap about things being snap in, and pull out by hand and slide back in is just lies. That black plastic piece running the length of the front end will just fracture into hundreds of pieces at the slightest touch, the little clips that hold it in explode under any pressure. The little metal sliders that lock the ficture into position snap and break so they no longer hold the fixture secure. The little retainer ring that holds the bulb to the fixture will also explode under the slightest pressure. You'll need to replace at least 25 different parts in order to get the vehicle back together, and many of them are things that only the dealer will have access to.
Short answer: DONT BUY THIS CAR TO BEGIN WITH.
you need to unbolt the front plate of the dash ,, then theres a cover on the heater core , that needs to be removed , then the heater core is bolted up there and , should come right out after unclamping hose ( located on the outer firewall-- under the steering rack, . kinda tricky to get back into position but it can be done . after back in , just re-install all plates and covers -DONE
you losten the belt with the tensioner pulley. it is located below and to the rear of the alternator. it will take a 13mm box end wrench and I also use a 17mm box end for leverage. you will pull the wrench toward the rear of the car and slide the belt off of the alternator.
On the inside panel of the door you can easily pop off the tweeter speaker by slowly prying with a cloth wrapped knife or screw driver. If you can pull back the door panel a bit you can reach down and unplug the power assembly for the mirror. Then there are 3 bolts to undo that hold the mirror to the door. If you cannot unplug the power assembly cord, then you may need to remove or at least loosen the door inside panel - this isn't too bad and gives much easier access to the power assembly cord.
The relay that handles the turn signals is separate from the relay that handles the hazards.
Most likely you have a burned out turn signal relay. Most likely the relay is located in your fuse panel and is a very inexpensive item to replace.
turn signals and hazards have separate flasher cans both look the same and are generally in the fuse box replace the hazard flasher can. they cost about 2 dollars at auto store
There may be a lamp with one of the turn signal elements burned out. If one is burned out turn signals may not work even though the lamp appears to be working when the lights are on.
Otherwise replace emergency flasher or possibly turn signal switch in steering wheel.
I had the same problem on my 2003 Saturn L200. When I cycled the Hazard Signal/switch for about 30 seconds, both left and right turn signals once again worked!!
I have had the light come on when I had a headlight out. me too. 9/15/05
The dashboard in a 1999 Pontiac Grand Am can be removed by removing the retaining clips. There are a total of 6 retaining clips. 2 on each end and 2 in the middle.
Fix your ABS system. Pull codes from your computer as a start. Then go from there.
Fog lamps can either be upper or lower, but in order to be street legal, they must be lower than the headlights.
First put a floor jack under the engine and raise it just high enough to support the engine, do not raise the car.
Secondly, remove the moter mount on the left side of the car.
Using a serpentine tool or a small drive breaker bar (not sure on the drive size, I used a serpentine tool that costed around $9 at a discount tool store) move the tension pulley to release tension on the belt.
Slide the belt off and out, you may have to wrestle with it a bit to get it thru the small opening where you removed the engine mount.
Reverse the steps to install the new belt.
http://www.a1electric.com/grandam.htm This should cover it. The tool is about $10. I picked one up at acme auto. It may not be exactly like this but pretty close. I'm still trying to pry off the door panel so im going to get back to it. Later- James
+There are some screws that need to be removed-there are 4 screws on the bottom of the door panel, holding the bottom to the door. -there are 2 screws on the top right, on a triangle looking peice of plastic, which covers the mirror.-there is 1 screw behind the lock, pull the lock on the door to the lock position, and you will see a hex screw.-there is 1 screw under the inside handle.... its on an angle and pretty hard to spot, so look under the handle with a flash light and you should see it....+Then get a flat head screw driver,...-pry off the button panel it is on that controls the window (make it move up or down).-pry off the plastic peice right behind the door knob/lever/ what ever you want to call it, its the way you open the door. and once you do that you will see another screw that hold the door panel a peice of metal-then stick the flat head screw driver to the middle of the right and left side and play with it to pop off the door... BE CAREFUL!!!!!!!!!!! don't brake any of the rods-then finally, pull the door UP, it will be a little hard, and you may even need to use the flat head screw drive to pry it up as well....
good luck! -Djpac
You must remove the aluminum Intake manifold ( upper & middle portion only ) to access the spark plugs. It's best left to a Professional Mechanic to do the job. The cost can vary. Look at atleast $400.00.. Just as a side note. The biggest hassle will be putting all those hoses & wire plugs you disconnected back in the right spot. The other is locating the proper bolts ( under all those hose & wires ) to remove the intake. Remember that this intake manifold only breathes air so no antifreeze BS to worry about. If you have the proper tools, patients & alot of time you can do it. I suggest perhaps taking some digital photos of the engine before you dig in - it will assist in getting some hoses back to the right spot ( label or color code hoses & wires first ) Good Luck ! And I will be doing this this weekend!
Changing the sparkplugs and wires in the Montero Sport, regardless of the year, is not an easy task. If you are not mechanically incline, then take it to the dealer and pay them to do the job....should run about $300 to $400. If you are mechanically then you may attempt to do the job yourself by following the step by step instruction on the web link listed here: http://www.monterosportonline.com/diy-perf2.html
45-60. Anything higher could indicate a bigger problem. A 134a system is similar to a R12 system in that you have a chart listing temperatures and pressures, with 134a running slightly higher. That said, you need both suction and discharge pressures and outside/inside temperatures, along with engine speed to let someone diagnose your system. You also need to make sure that your compressor and all other parts - relays, fans, hoses not plugged by collapsed inner liners, etc. are functioning properly before "adding a can" of 134a. You can seriously overcharge if you don't know what you're doing. Best solution if everything is functioning properly, is to have a qualified mechanic empty the system, pull a vacuum and re-install the correct charge (weight of 134a). This is different from make to make, but is critical. A 134a system does not have the"bubble gauge" as a R12 system does, and it is easy to get under or over in the charge. Your mechanic will weigh in the correct number of cans for proper operation. when all else fails, try 34psi on the suction gauge. this is real close to where you need to be.
Just did this on my daughter's Probe yesterday. There are 2 bolts that hold the unit in place. Remove these 2 bolts and pull the entire unit free. The piston in the unit will have to be rotated like a screw or bolt with some pliers so that you can adjust the clearance for the new, thicker pads. Once you have screwed the piston in enough, simply put the new pads in place and re=assemble in reverse order of dis-assemble. Be sure to tighten the bolts well. Check fluid level and take it for a test drive to check for proper function.
The specs call for a 16" wheel, but sometimes you see them for 17" or more. It depends on the model and what previous owners have done for it. Typically, they are a 16" alloy wheel
Anyway, is you fuel gauge hooked up when you run it? If so is it in spec?
Is your spark tester hooked up?AnswerOkay, Spark is eliminated, the only 2 things left are compression or fuel.
By the way, the check engine light may or may not have anything to do with the no start.
Turn the key in the "run" position and listen for the fuel pump. IF you don't hear it, open the door to the fuel cap and have someone else cycle the key-don't crank it. The pump should hum. IF it doesn't, proceed with the following:
Access the throttle body. spray some starting fluid or other combustible liquid of a similar nature in it breifly while someone cranks the motor. If it seems to want to turn over and run, pulse the starting fluid into the throttle bore enough to keep it running... or not.
If it runs, you are lacking fuel. If it doesn't make a difference, it may be compression.
If you heard the pump run, then still follow the procedure with the starting fluid, un you can see fuel getting into the throttle bore when cranking.Answercheck you ignition switch,check spark, fuel pump, voltage regulator,pick up coil in dist, AnswerSounds like a Pass-key problem 2 me... AnswerIt could also be a vacuum leak or related air problem. You might want to have the mass air flow sensor tested just in case, you can do it yourself or have an auto parts dealer do it. I know Auto Zone does testing for free, I use them every time.
Yes somewhat when it gets hot, but not enough to matter one way or another. Check the fluid as instructed in your owner's manual or what is written on the reservoir cap.
12.7 gallons for both the 1997 Grand Am GT and SE.
As a 10 year owner of a 97 GA SE, you're both wrong, it's 14, including the filler neck. 15 is a stretch..i may have gotten 14.2 or 14.3 in when it was really burning fumes....but 12.7, c'mon.
A large padded center of the steering wheel is a indication, but it should have a symbol showing it is air bagged equipped. Also starting in the early 1990s, air bags became standard on all new vehicles. You can always know that the driver has one, at minimum. Now there are air bags for driver, passenger and are also found on the sides of certain cars.
if its the same as a 98, then with the hood upand your looking towards the rear of the car, its on the left side of the engine, at the back, look way down over the exhaust manifold and you will see a two wires in an insulated sleeve dissapearing into a rectangular heat shield, pull on the heat shield and it will come off and slide up the wires and voila there it is. mine was a swine to get out, the top part of the vss sensor came off, i had to thread a 5/16 lag bolt into the thing and pound it out with a slide hammer gear puller, but the shop wanted $400 to replace it.. i was successful and went to dinner with the savings lol
The trick is to snake your arm down the back, ajacent to the maifold pipe, and unplug the wiring harness. I used a 10mm socket to unscrew the bolt that holds the sensor in place. Once the screw was out it was easy to pull the sensor out and rush to Auto Zone and get a new one. Reverse the process in putting the sensor in(20 min flat), test drove that bad boy and it works like a charm. All done it cost me $20 that's a far cry from $150 to $250 to have it done at a garage. Yoah! I'am a happy camper.
I have a 2000 Grand Am and is probably the same. There is a 7/16 plug on the transmission case you have to be under the car to see it. it is located on the backside near the right axel. You take it out and put in transmission fluid till it comes out the plug hole. The fill plug is accesed from engine compartment,you will need a long funel to fill. Must take it to a Dealer. I believe there is a recommended 100,000 mile check, but not sure. Easest thing to do is ask a dealer.
1999 Pontiac Grand Am 3.4 V6 4 speed auto does not have a dip stick. According to the manual if the transmission is leaking fluid or shifting incorrectly take it to the dealer. Other than that the service interval for filter and fluid change is 50,000 miles. I hope this answers your question.
It is a challenging procedure to check the fluid. It must be done at a particular temperature. There is a plug on the transmission that is removed and when the fluid doesn't run out, it is full. The level will change however depending on the temperature of the fluid.
if it is an electric fan then yes. it does. and it should be located on the fan itself. if not, follow the wires till you find it. shouldn't be far.
First off, find a repair facility that has an alignment machine. When u replace tie rods, u have changed the alignment specs and will need to bring back into those specs once u remove and reinstall the new one. Count the number of turns to get the old unit off of the inner tie rod, that way u will be close to the old specs and then get alignment performed or u will chew up your tires pretty fast.
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