Tighten Bolts 1-8 to 65 Nm (40 ft lbs)
Tighten bolts 9 and 10 40 Nm (30 ft lbs)
Then turn all bolts an additional 90 degrees
Tighten bolts to 60 Nm (44 lb ft)
Then all bolts turn additional 95 degrees
Blown gaskets are usually caused overheating and are very difficult to replace. It is worth it replacing if you want to drive this car again. If you drive it without repairing it, severe engine damage will occur.AnswerIf you're of average mechanical ability and the job doesn't have snags, no, it is not difficult. If you're going to tackle it, do exactly what you're doing for starters: research. Get the specs that are needed as well as a r&r procedure, and you're off. Depending on where you live, or more precisly, where the car has lived, you may need Torches.
The "manifold to head" bolts can be challenging, but shouldn't stop you from trying. The bigger question you face is "is it just a head gasket?" It is possible that the gasket may have been blown from warpage in the head, in which case the head should go to a machine shop for cleaning, pressure testing, maybe magna-fluxing for cracks, and machining if it is okay. You could put it together and still have a problem. So send it to a machine shop unless you are just going to get a reman head. I don't know what size engine you have, so I can't get too specific, I would guess a 2.2 or 2.5. Fair chance of a cracked head if so. Tightening specs and sequence are important for the head bolts. Plan on new ones, toss the old ones. Get a new thermostat while you're in it. Overheating can damage a thermostat.
Getting back to the original question, yes, you can do this, be patient. IF a bolt snaps a machine shop can help you. Continue to research this before you start. Good luck.AnswerIt depends on the car. Years ago I did it every Friday night on a Corolla for a month - took about 4 hours. Then I finally realised the head was cracked. Overhead cams make it more tricky. For example, on some cars the cam chain has a tensioner located low down. The chain must be kept under tension the whole time, or the tensioner falls into the sump. Then it's off with the sump. A full maintenance manual giving the procedure and specs for clearances is essential. Of course, a tension wrench is a must. It's best to do this with someone experienced the first time. However, with the right tools, maintenance manual, and common sense, it's not too difficult. As with any car repair, have a few plastic containers for nuts and bolts, each labeled. Otherwise expect to have a few left over at the end - not nice.
Note that what seems like a blown gasket can also be a warped or cracked head. Get this checked out before re-assembly, particularly if the car has overheated.AnswerWhat causes it is usually bad manufacturing or a design flaw, lastly bad maintenance, say an overheat/ bad thermostat on a aluminum head, or no oil. The head gasket is what keeps oil and radiator fluid separate. When they mix, death, quite quickly. Engine replacement. Can most people do a head? No. About 500 bucks vs a new engine. When you lose radiator fluid, and its not on the floor, check your oil. if that's foamy, pull over, or death to the engine will come quickly. its 500 bucks vs a new engine. AnswerI'd strongly recommend getting a service manual before doing it; preferably the factory manual. But maybe one of the car store manuals will do it; look up the head gasket section and see if it specifies torque for the head bolts, order to tighten them in, whether you can reuse old bolts or need new ones every time, etc.
It's not necessarily a tough job, but it's one of the more finicky; after all, the factory presumably did the best job possible, and the gasket still blew, so you don't want to do a sloppy job. Although, any reasonably good job will last a while.
Some cars are easier than others. Whatever Ford compact had a rash of head gasket failures like in the 90s sometime and the dealers learned they can just undo the bolts, lift the head half an inch, pull out the old gasket with a pair of needle pliers and slide in the new gasket, and put it all back together again, all within half an hour, and collect 4 hours pay from the warranty book. Last time I did one, it took me all winter, but that was because it was too cold outside most of the time. Worked fine though. Until I overheated again.
The thing is, that just replacing the gasket isn't always the best idea. If the engine has a lot of miles on it and is burning oil, etc. might as well put a rebuilt head on as long as you're doing the work. Plus if the gasket blew because the head warped because it overheated, you should probably not put the warped head back on or it will eventually blow again. Thus the rebuilt head, which is ground flat before they rebuild it. (Which in itself causes some problems with cam timing, but that's another matter.....)
If the rings are shot, then the engine needs a total rebuild don't bother with anything less.
Lately, it's become almost more practical to just swap a used engine (or engine/trans, if its a FWD) from a junkyard instead of doing the gasket; it's more work and you're not likely to do it yourself, but the mechanic will likely guarantee it, assuming he gets to pick the engine; whereas they're reluctant to guarantee a head gasket for very long, given how finicky it is.
As for the cause, like everybody says, if you have an aluminum head, as most (all?) compact imports do, overheating will do it. Not right away, usually, but within a few months. The aluminum warps, and the uneven pressure is enough to let the gasket blow out. And the overheating is often due to a clogged radiator, or a leak that loses coolant, or a blown hose, or some such. Could be a long period of mild overheating, or a sudden high overheating. With me, it was always blowing a hose (or a hose clamp) on the highway, because you can lose all the coolant real quick and not notice any steam, like you would on the street at low speed.Answer:I would order up an engine from a Japanese engine supplier, and replace the whole engine. The labor is not a whole lot more than doing a head gasket with much lower risk of problems.
Your blown head gasket was caused by some other problem that may or may not still exist when you are done repairing the head gasket.
Here are several answers from FAQ Farmers: * If the trunk lock is broken, it's probably one of those things that needs to be replaced.. after all if your keeping valuable items in your trunk, you want something that will lock up. A lock is a fairly intricate peice of hardware, and with many small parts to it, it's difficult to fix. A locksmith, is probably not a good idea. They may not care about the car itself and cause more trouble than they are worth, a mechanic will be willing to replace the lock, or fix it if possible. The only problem this these locks, is that often, the lock housing is located between your cars outer...skin... and the metal framing for the trunk. Since these two have been welded and assembled in the shop years ago, they are extremely difficult to access. * It depends. If the sheet metal was damaged, that will have to be repaired first, or the lock won't seat properly. That's done by a body shop. The lock itself would have to be looked at-by a locksmith. If it's not possible to repair, a new one can be installed and keyed to match. This is NOT something many car dealers or mechanics can do. Removal and replacement of the lock cylinder isn't very difficult, BTW-if not self-evident, a service manual should show how.
Park the vehicle on a level surface. Drain the oil and change the filter. Add 4 quarts of oil, start the engine, and run for 1 minute. Shut off and wait 30 minutes. Check the oil level and add as necessary to reach the full mark on the dipstick. You now know the capacity.
this one is not very easy! you have to go through the same process as changing the timing chain because it's the chain that drives the water pump. you have to take off the passenger side motor mount. then you will need to remove the drive belt. after that you have to take off the crankshaft damper pulley. then you have to remove the timing chain cover. then you will see a little gear towards the back of the motor about mid way up. and even then you have to remove the timing chain, the lower crank sprocket and the cam sprockets. then take off the casing behind that to access the water pump... if your are going to do this, i suggest you get a manual. worth it's weight in gold! it's impossible to do this without one. and you might as well do the timing chain while you have it all apart. it's not impossible but it's not easy! i just did mine.
before you go through all this make sure you replace your thermostat first. fallow the coolant lines into the block on the drivers side of engine. there are two bolts holding the goose neck in. the thermostat is behind that. make sure to drain the radiator first. there is a drain plug but it is almost impossible to get at. the best way to drain it is to remove the black hose on the lower part of radiator on passenger side. it connects into a metal hose right next to the oil pan. alot of times it can just be the thermostat.
it sounds like alot for the thermostat but it's not that bad. especially if that's all it is. but if you have to do the water pump, then good luck! just get a manual first though. it'll save alot of headache!
you need to look at the parts and shut up
First of all, I would have to know what engine you have because they are all in differat places. If you have a 3100 V6 its under the intake. It will not cause overheating of any kind. Let me know if I can help you in any other way. Ray
open the hood and take the black plastic off that covers the top of the lights ans look around the light for two tabs to pull up on and it should fall out but its a little troubesome getting back in.
I recently view many idea's on the internet in how to change your head lamp on your 2001 Pontiac grand am. I also responded to this same web page and answer the question by explaining the way from underneath the fender well and reaching up to the lamp for removal. Well skip that idea, yeah it's possible, I did it, but the other guy had it right!
All you need for tools is this: Channel locks or pliers, a trim tool that looks like a forked screw driver cost $8.99 at the auto parts( and you can use a flat head screw driver if you are careful), a flat head screw driver,eye protection,and your fingers and that's it!
First lift the hood and it does not matter which side of the lamp bulb you have to replace. Take your trim tool or screw driver(careful with screw driver) and pop the head up, not the washer part on the plastic pin retainers on the plastic ram shield that covers the radiator. Note: all the pins are not the same, the fatter pins go in the bigger holes, and the skinner ones in the small holes when you put the shield back together.
Now go to the head light assembly and look on top from one side to the other and you will see a metal tab on each side ( total of two tabs)Now you can try with your finger first, or use the pliers. Grab a hold of the tab and gently push away from you and at the same time pull up. When both tabs are pulled up about 1/2 way up or so, your head light assembly is ready to be pulled out. Now care fully angle it out so you can see the lamp bulb clip. Now don't worry you did not mess up your head lamp alignment, they are adjust by the small screws. Now take a screw driver and gently lift up working both sides in pulling the electrical plug wiring out from the lamp bulb. Then careful unscrew the plastic ring retainer and slide it out of the way and then remove the bulb by turning a little and pulling it out. Note: Don't break the fins on the big plastic ring retainer because if you do, that's a dealership item and it will roughly cost you $12.00 and hope that the nearest dealership has it! Second, when you install the new bulb, don't touch the lamp bulb glass area, this will add your oil base finger marks and will shorten the bulb life span. Third, make sure you wear safety glasses, if the bulb does break when you remove or install you will receive eye damage from the elements that make the lamp bulbs. Just be careful!
Now put the new bulb in and the plactic ring retainer, plug in the wiring. Now since you completed that part let's put it back together. All I need to say is this, when you put the head lamp assembly back in, apply a little pressure while pushing the clips down. Examine first where the holes are inside the frame where the clips grab the head lamp assembly. Now put the shield back in its flexable bend it in the corners and put the plastic pins in. That's it! The whole process should take you 15-20 minutes or less, and it's not that hard.
I forgot the guy's name, so credit goes to the man that I read this information on the website!
Open up the hood, and go in behind the fixture where the light is located. Sometimes there is an access panel on top. Open it and reach down inside and grab the bulb's socket. Twist the socket a quarter turn counter clockwise, and pull out the socket. Grab the bulb, and pull it straight out. To replace the new bulb, never touch it with your bare fingers, as this will greatly shorten the bulb's life, if it even work's at all. Use a tissue or something else in that order to handle the new bulb. Push the new bulb into the socket, put the socket back into the housing, and twist a quarter turn clockwise to secure the socket into the fixture
My wife has a 2001 Pontiac Grand Am. The drivers side headlamp went out so I tried to change it.I quickly learned that this was not as easy as I thought. It frustrated me for a while. The alternative was to take the car to a repair shop and pay the outrageous prices for parts and labor. At most libraries there is an automotive section. If they don't have a manual for your car,they can go online an search repair manuals;i our case, replacing the driver side head lamp bulb. You have to take the air deflector off. this is located under the hood on the front wall.It's held in place by about six plastic fasteners.You will see 2 metal retainers these must be slipped out . One will come all the way out ,the other will swing up out of yourway.Then you can lift the headlamp assembly away far enough to change the bulb. If not e-mail me and I can scan and e-mail you thdiagrams I got from the library. (email@example.com)
Additional text from Brennan Haley:
Thank you for the awesome advice not included in the owner's manual. Here's some additional stuff I found when doing mine. The six plastic fasteners (mine had eight) look just like nipples, please excuse my french. The nipple is separate from the aereola and if you use pliers to pull up on the nipple about a quarter of an inch, the rest of the fastener will pop out easier, usually you can do it just by hand. Once the whole thing is out, you can see how the two pieces work. Replacing them is just the opposite. Make sure the nipple is still out, and the fastener will pop back in easy. Then push down on the nipple, and it'll secure itself in there.
The two metal fasteners have little notches on them, so you have to push them away from yourself as you pull up, so the notches clear the plastic holder. I found that out the hard way, and cracked one of the plastic holders - doh!
I miss the old style headlights, they were easier than this to replace.
Just an add on after changing my drivers side headlight. The two metal fasteners are on either side of the headlight. The one on the left is the one to remove completely. The one on the left only moves up about an inch.
thanks for the tip, guys. could not have done it without reading your advices. one more thing i could add is when you pull out the L shaped clip, you need to push it forword a bit before pulling it. otherwise, it would not come out. someone mentioned it earlier...
be careful taking out the acutal bulb. the housing ring(?) broke in mine so i had to duct tape it back in...cheap plastic all over...
all in all, i see why GM is struggling for market share are almost bankrupt. they make crappy car. IMHO, i will never will i buy domestic cars again.
hey everyone...first thing's first! make sure that you understand that the entire headlight assembly(s) come forward and out. that is why you have to pop the metal tabs up, to allow the whole light to come out the front. then, you remove the bulb from the light assembly while in your hands, or resting on the front bumper. once you realize that, it's a simple process. good luck to you all!
-A. Baker and Dad (ok mostly Dad)
Take it to the dealer. All this crap about things being snap in, and pull out by hand and slide back in is just lies. That black plastic piece running the length of the front end will just fracture into hundreds of pieces at the slightest touch, the little clips that hold it in explode under any pressure. The little metal sliders that lock the ficture into position snap and break so they no longer hold the fixture secure. The little retainer ring that holds the bulb to the fixture will also explode under the slightest pressure. You'll need to replace at least 25 different parts in order to get the vehicle back together, and many of them are things that only the dealer will have access to.
Short answer: DONT BUY THIS CAR TO BEGIN WITH.
the 2.2 engine of 1998 and up don't have PVCAnswerI recently replaced a valve cover gasket on a 98 sunfire, and was looking for the pcv valve. I could not find, even looking in a chilton manual. Eventually I called GM, and that is when I found out they are built in to the valve cover there is nothing to replace. The Elbow that comes out of the top of the valve cover hooks right into the air box. That is what I originally thought was the PVC.
Unless your coolant has spilled into the driver/passenger compartment first you must drain the coolant out of the hoses and then you must remove the shifter console. Directly behind the console just below the radio you should see a square shape plastic box which contains the heater core you must open the box by unscrewing or unsnapping the fasteners. (Be patient. It's going to get a little tight but you can do it without having to remove the entire dash.)
Pay attention to how it's set up inside the box and just disconnect the old unit and replace it with the new, remember to retrace you steps when putting it all back together, it should take you about 1-2 hrs.
Don't forget refill your coolant and in most cases you have to have your A/C unit recharged after doing a heater core replacement.
Call your local auto-parts store and verify the A/C unit having to be recharged only if your vehicle comes with an A/C unit installed.
The seat track is bolted to the floorboard.
my 2001 Taurus had clips for the rear seat cushion where if you push the cusion twords the rear of the car then pull upward the cushion should come off...
you losten the belt with the tensioner pulley. it is located below and to the rear of the alternator. it will take a 13mm box end wrench and I also use a 17mm box end for leverage. you will pull the wrench toward the rear of the car and slide the belt off of the alternator.
A blown head gasket is usually caused by over filling the oil during an oil change, or just the opposite not having enough oil to compensate the pressure status, therefor causing exstreme overheating which in turn will cause many problems other than just a blown gasket. ie; engine locks up, overheats ,and then is all around just needs replacing. Once you've blown your engine you basically have hit bottom. Hope this helps.
It can also be caused by detonation. Especially if you add turbo or supercharger aftermarket.
On the inside panel of the door you can easily pop off the tweeter speaker by slowly prying with a cloth wrapped knife or screw driver. If you can pull back the door panel a bit you can reach down and unplug the power assembly for the mirror. Then there are 3 bolts to undo that hold the mirror to the door. If you cannot unplug the power assembly cord, then you may need to remove or at least loosen the door inside panel - this isn't too bad and gives much easier access to the power assembly cord.
Does it not blink or keep blinking? Check your bulbs first (all of them).
my left front turn signal does not come on. the bulb needs to be changed but how do i access the bulb? the area where the bulb is is very tight.
What make/model vehicle? 97 JEEP CHEROKEE
Brakes can cause your tires to appear to have smoke coming off of them. If you drive with your foot slightly on the brake pedal with a car equipped with power brakes (most are), you are applying the brakes enough to cause considerable heat.
Are you sure the tires are smoking, and not the brakes? In any case, it is too dangerous to drive.
Your tires are probably not smoking but your brakes are. Mine were smoking the other day and it was because the caliper was stuck which can happen after you have just put new brakes on the car. Be careful because you can ruin your rotors, tires, and brakes.
It can also be caused by high horsepower. In my 1985 Trans Am with a built 350 in it, if I depress the accelerator down too aggressively, I notice a very thick white cloud of smoke simply pouring off my rear tires. It's the strangest thing... This can also occur during hard shifts between gears...
This often happens if the vehicle has been operating with the parking brake partially set. Brakes can become extremely hot and can cause checking of the brake shoes or brake pad materials. If this occurs, the brakes should be inspected to make certain that they are still funcitonal. If the heat has migrated through the wheel and onto the tire causing the tire to smoke as well, the tire is probably beyond help. In a situation like that, the tire should be removed and the bead should be inspected. If the bead is black, and no other damage is detected, the tire is probably ok. If the bead is grey, the tire is probably damaged and is unsafe.
I have had the light come on when I had a headlight out. me too. 9/15/05
The dashboard in a 1999 Pontiac Grand Am can be removed by removing the retaining clips. There are a total of 6 retaining clips. 2 on each end and 2 in the middle.
I have a 5.8L in my 1990 and it is located behind the intake on the passenger side. Right by the valve cover.
Your going to need several to remove the front and back seats plus the console to change out the carpeting.
To remove the front seats is easy:
Look under the seats and disconnect the weight sensor/seatbelt sensor/heated seat hookup if it's there.
Slide the seat all the way forward, and using a flathead screwdriver pop up the plastic covers on the back of the seat on the floor. From there use a wrench of some kind to remove both bolts holding the seat down, then just lift up and tilt forward to remove the seat.
To remove the back seat:
Pop the trunk and pull the seat releases on the top of the trunk. Pull the seatbacks down and use a flathead screwdriver to push the outer latches of the seats off while lifting up on the ends and the seats will pop out. In order to get the seat. Look toward the black rail in the back and you should see a small metal wire under the black rail. Just push down really hard and pull back and the it should pop out. Do the same to the other side, and then just ease the seat out of the spot.
To remove the center console:
Twist the base of the shift knob until it comes off the shift ball. Pull on the shift ball to remove it. In the front of the shift boot there is a tab you can squeeze back to lift up and remove the boot. Pull the ebrake up and put a screwdriver in the tabbie to let the cover off that. Pull up on the rear cup holder, and unsnap the three console pieces that fit on the top. Use a socket or wrench to remove the ebrake and one of the body control modules right there, and the two tiny black screws on the sides of the console. Remove anything else and lift up the center console. Also the cigarette lighters are going to need to be disconnected as well.
From there pull the carpet out and replace, enjoy!
On a 1996 Grand Marquis there are 4 oxygen sensors. 2 (1 on each bank) are mounted before the front catalysts near the manifold-->cat-pipe flange. These are the HEGOS or Heated Exhaust Gas Oxygen Sensor. These are the primary o2s and are what help the PCM determine the correct A/F ratio. There are another 2 directly after the fisrt set (1 on each bank) of catalysts moutned on the exhaust piping between the two catalysts on each bank. The primary goal of these is to monitor the catalysts' effieceincy. In summary: 4 o2 sensors in all 2 are the upstream/HEGOS o2s 2 the downstream o2s 4 cat-convertors in all
Hey MM==As far as I know it is like the rest of the 3800 engines and in in the intake manifold. There should be a hose going from it to the throtle body. Good luck Joe To replace the PCV valve: 1) Remove SC plastic shroud, 2) Note the black plastic PCV cover about 3 inches to the right of the shroud bolt, on top of the SC/Intake Manifold. It does not have a hose connected to it!! 3) Remove the 2 10mm bolts and lift off the PCV Cover. 4) A hold down coil spring can be removed and 5) the PCV valve sits in the recess. Reverse assembly with new PCV valve. With this location DO NOT EXPECT big change in operation - the old valve just gets a little varnished... To replace the PCV valve: 1) Remove SC plastic shroud, 2) Note the black plastic PCV cover about 3 inches to the right of the shroud bolt, on top of the SC/Intake Manifold. It does not have a hose connected to it!! 3) Remove the 2 10mm bolts and lift off the PCV Cover. 4) A hold down coil spring can be removed and 5) the PCV valve sits in the recess. Reverse assembly with new PCV valve. With this location DO NOT EXPECT big change in operation - the old valve just gets a little varnished...
oviously you have a vacume-leak intake to modulator-valve/or bad modulator-valve,check for leaks/replace modulator.this device controls kickdown-band apply pressure,with engine vacume
its not easy. there are actually two separate belts in those engines..one for each side.. and they have overhead cam shafts. its best to get a repair manual for that. because its very difficult to explain without diagrams.
Go to www.ultimatesubaru.net Everything you need to know about working on a Loyale is covered there. It will not be that difficult, but will take you several hours the first time you do it.
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