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there s a cover over it is black or should be it has about 8 screws 8mm socket right on top ogf the engine it should say 16v zetec on it u take that cover off and u will see the spark plug wires
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In most cars the spark plugs are situated under the bonnet, located towards the front of the vehicle.
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Under the hood you will see a thin metal plate right on top of the motor and there are four bolts. They are 14 mm and the plugs are under there in between the cams. There is a rubber gasket around the plugs. Pull them off, and there you go.
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Believe it or not, the easiest way is: 1. Remove the plug wire by pulling it off carefully, grasp it close to the end. You can also buy a plug wire remover which is available at any parts store. 2. Using a SPARK PLUG wrench (available at any parts store) - remove the old plug. 3. Insert the new plug. 4. Tighten, but not TOO tight. 5. Push the plug wire back on. 6. Repeat 1-5 for the other 7 plugs. You might find it easier to access some of the plugs via the holes above the tire wells. From the side of the vehicle, you'll see a hole near the top of the tire well. If you change the plugs, it's best to replace the wires also. NOTE: The wires and plugs on Grand Marquis are rated for 100,000 miles or more with proper maintenance. NOTE 2: Unless you area good mechanic, changing the plugs can cause you more heartache than the price of having a professional do it for you. With all the Computerized stuff on 2000 model year and later automobiles, it's best to pay a price for a complete tune-up. Good Luck -tj-
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Check the Vehicle Emission Control Information ( VECI ) decal
located in the front of the engine compartment ( it will show the
type of spark plugs to use and the spark plug gap )
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The 1995 Pontiac Grand Am starter relay switch can be found on the firewall in the engine compartment. The starter relay switch will be on the drivers side of the firewall.
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Best way to diagnose is to scan for codes, but not having that I would guess the ignition module then the crank/cam sensor.
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I was looking at one of Fords websites and it shows :
For a 1965 Ford Mustang , 3.3 liter / 200 cubic inch inline six cylinder ( .035 inch )
For a 1965 Ford Fairlane , 2.8 liter / 170 cubic inch ( .035 )
For a 1965 Ford F-100 , 4.9 liter / 300 cubic inch inline six cylinder ( medium duty is .030 and light duty is .035 )
So. without knowing which model and engine size it looks like ( .035 inch spark plug gap )
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The alternator should only have to be replaced if it has either failed to provide sufficient current to keep the battery charged and the car's electrical system supplied, or it has suffered mechanical damage like a worn bearing or damaged casing. Replacement for age alone is not necessary.
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any diesel is hard to start when cold. your diesel should have a block heater somewhere. find the plug in and when vehicle is parked,plug the cord into a 110 outlet.that should solve your problem. this is all explained in your owners handbook. To add to this answer: Most diesel engines work off a set timer (they don't know the difference between -20 and plus 20 degrees) of around 15sec. A very popular solution used in Canada is to have the timer bypassed to a switch. The best type of switch to use is called a MOMENTARY, it only activates the plugs with your finger on the switch. Not touching the switch the plugs will work normally, but when you hold the switch on it will continue to run as long as you want (I know Toyota Landcrusiers glow plugs can run for a minute with no problems to the plugs. A shop that installs automatic car starters would be the best place to have the custom switch installed due to their common contact with the various vehicle wiring (not a dealership).
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Go to newcelica.org and at the top of the screen you'll see a tab called (tech info) click on it. when at the next page scroll down and you'll see an area called maintanace, in there you will see a complete walkthrough on testing and inspecting your spark plugs. I know this is correct i just recently put some OBX racing plugs in mine and used this very guide. Go to newcelica.org and at the top of the screen you'll see a tab called (tech info) click on it. when at the next page scroll down and you'll see an area called maintanace, in there you will see a complete walkthrough on testing and inspecting your spark plugs. I know this is correct i just recently put some OBX racing plugs in mine and used this very guide.
Asked by Tlunsford
whatever you do, REPLACE ONE AT A TIME! The wires are connected to the plugs in a certain order. If you pull all the wires off then you will need to get the wiring order to make sure you get the right plug to the right wire. Gently pull ONE plug wire off, twist it BUT do NOT yank on it. If they have been on there a long time, they tend to bond themselves to the plug. twisting usually can break them loose. There is a spark plug wire removal tool that grips the plug at the base if they won't some off. Once you get the wire off the plug, follow the wire up to the distributor, and remove the wire from the distributor and insert the new wire and loop it where the old one was. You will need a socket and ratchet to remove the spark plugs. Get a deep well socket and they actually make spark plug sockets.......I am not sure what size you need. Place the socket over the plug and ratchet it to the left to loosen. Be sure to have the socket securly on the plug, pr you could break the plug off. Once you loosen the plug simply unscrew it from the plug hole. Now take a new plug that has been gapped correctly. Check to see what the gap is for your type of plug. The plug must be gapped correctly to get it to fire correctly. You can buy plug gapping tools or feeler gauges. SOme are .35 some are .40 and some are 50. Know yours before you start, some come pregapped from the factory but I always recheck them using a gauge. Place some anti seize on the threads of the plug and START THE PLUG IN THE HOLE BY HAND.............. Do not place the plug in the ratchet and socket and try to fidn the hole. If you cross thread the hole, you will need to have it retapped before you can get the plug back in. Once you have the plug started by hand use the socket to continue to screw the plug into the hole, and then place the ratchett on it and tighten it but NOT TOO TIGHT! I would say snug and then just a bit more. Get some spark plug wire lubricant and smear it on the the inside of the wire boot that goes over th ehead of the plug. You can use dilectric grease as well............ and as you push down on the wire you should feel it sort of click or snap onto the top of the plug. That's one down...........now go to tanother and repeat. Biggest thing to remember is: Remove one wire and plug at a time Do not yank on the plug wires to get them off the plugs Make sure you get the socket on the plug squarely to remove it Maje sure your new plugs are gapped properly Use anti seize on your new plugs on the threads START the new plugs by hand Snug the plugs up do not overtighten Use spark plug wire grease or lubricant or dilectric grease Good luck
Asked by Wiki User
A loose battery cable can cause no spark at the plugs, it can also cause your car not to start.
Some newer cars need a min. 10 volts to run. Dirty cables can cause the same problem too.
answerdefinetly yes a loose cable stops proper voltage getting to where it needs to be tighten cable and see if that fixes problem loose cable will also prevent proper recharging of batteryAsked by Wiki User
your engine will start but run badly on a multi cyl. ie. more than one only 1 plug may be down, not often more than 1 together
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Check the fan belt it may be tight when cold and causes the whistle until it loosends up when it warms up during use. Can also be caused by the throttle body needing to be cleaned, carbon build up on the IAC motor
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Simple trace your positive cable off your battery to a LILLTLE BOX AND THATS YOUR COIL. tAKE THE NEG OFF your battery. Then disconent all the hot wires on the coil then there should be a couple nuts holding it on the finder well take them off and replase it. Est. time 15 min.
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The firing order on a 1993 Toyota truck with a 4-cylinder . 22RE is 1, 3, 4, 2. The number one cylinder can be found at the front of the engine, closest to the grill.
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4 - modern combustion engines use 1 spark plug per cylinder. ANSWER The 1994 Ford Ranger 2.3 L has Ford's twin plug ignition system , so there are 8 spark plugs The 94-95 Ranger 2.3 has twin plug system, 2 per cylinder =8
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The check engine light (service engine soon) comes on and stays on when a problem is detected by the self diagnosis system of your vehicle. Generally, the problem is in the emissions or something that is affecting the effectiveness of the emissions, but other causes can trigger the light to come on, too. To determine the cause, the vehicle will need to be taken to AutoZone or a shop that has an OBD2 scanner, or for 1995 and earlier models, an OBD1 scanner, While a scanner will not give you the magic answer, it will give you a code that narrows down the problem area.
Asked by Wiki User
Remove both leads to the battery. There are two bolts holding the starter to the transmission. One, the bolt closer to the radiator has a ground on it and has a nut on the bolt fastening the ground lead to the bolt.
After removing the ground a deep socket will be needed to remove the bolt. The rear bolt comes out and you have a starter in your hands.
You have a positive cable attached to the starter and an ignition bypass still attached that must be removed before you can drop the starter.
I have changed brushes in the 3.8 starter and found the starter will go another 100,000 miles. This is a gear reduction starter that should be checked to draw about 80 amps without a load. Some will draw more than 130 amps which is definitely over spec.
The cost of brushes lists for $50 but can be purchased for $15 from a starter rebuilder.
A little grease on the bearing surfaces, and a little polishing of the communtator, and the starter will work well for years.
AnswerHey Russell==Disconnect the battery. Raise the car up and remove the wires from the starter. Then remove the bolts and work it out among the exhaust pipes. GoodluckJoe---The reason so many look at this topic may be the chilton manual which shows a diagram of the 3.0L starter shrunk down to unreadable. What looks like the top bolt is not connected to the starter at all. The bolt labled "stud" which holds the cable routing bracket has to be removed after the bracket and nut are removed.
Also unless you have an air rachet, no normal length tool can be used to break the top bolt loose without removing the fan and shroud, and the stud that holds cable managment bracket. Also the relays and controllers mounted to the rail above the radiator.
After that the exhaust pipes are not really in the way of removal.
AnswerThat top bolt is a real challenge - I assembled about 2 feet worth of socket driver extensions and fed it to the bolt from straight out and to the far right side. This provided lots of swing-room for the ratchet wrench. AnswerDisconnect - side of batteryFollow + battery cable for starter locationLift and secure vehicle if needed for accessRemove 2 bolts securing starterDisconnect wiresSlide starter out of housing Reverse to installThe start is located on the lower part of the 'front' of the engine - the side literally facing the front of the vehicle.
It is located below the front exhaust manifold.
The starter is lower front of engine at the transmission close to the radiator.
AnswerBefore removing the starter for repair or replacement, check the condition of all circuit wiring for damage. Inspect all connections to the starter motor, relay, ignition switch, and battery, including all ground connections. Clean and tighten all connections as seen fit.Also keep in mind that the heavy gague input lead to the starter solenoid is hot at all times. Be careful to ensure the protective cap is installed over the terminal and replaced after service.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Note: When the battery has been disconnected and reconnected, some abnormal driveablilty symptoms may occur while the PCM relearns its adaptive strategy. It usually take about 10 miles of driving to relearn it, so take it easy.
2. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
3. Disengage the starter cable and the push-on connector from the starter solenoid.
4. Remove the upper and lower retaining bolts, then remove the starter motor from the vehicle.
5. Position the starter motor to the engine , then install the upper and lower retaining bolts finger tight.
6. Tighten the retaining bolts to 15-20 ft. pounds.
7. Engage the starter solenoid connector, making sure to push straight on until it locks into position, you will hear it click.
8. Install the starter calbe nut to the starter solenoid B terminal. Tighten the nut to 80-120 in. pounds, then install the red starter solenoid safety cap.
9. Lower the vehicle, then connect the negative battery cable.
Good Luck - D. Gavel
AnswerBefore removing the starter for repair or replacement, check the condition of all circuit wiring for damage. Inspect all connections to the starter motor, relay, ignition switch, and battery, including all ground connections. Clean and tighten all connections as seen fit.Also keep in mind that the heavy gague input lead to the starter solenoid is hot at all times. Be careful to ensure the protective cap is installed over the terminal and replaced after service.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Note: When the battery has been disconnected and reconnected, some abnormal driveablilty symptoms may occur while the PCM relearns its adaptive strategy. It usually take about 10 miles of driving to relearn it, so take it easy.
2. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
3. Disengage the starter cable and the push-on connector from the starter solenoid.
4. Remove the upper and lower retaining bolts, then remove the starter motor from the vehicle.
5. Position the starter motor to the engine , then install the upper and lower retaining bolts finger tight.
6. Tighten the retaining bolts to 15-20 ft. pounds.
7. Engage the starter solenoid connector, making sure to push straight on until it locks into position, you will hear it click.
8. Install the starter calbe nut to the starter solenoid B terminal. Tighten the nut to 80-120 in. pounds, then install the red starter solenoid safety cap.
9. Lower the vehicle, then connect the negative battery cable.
Good Luck - D. Gavel
AnswerBefore removing the starter for repair or replacement, check the condition of all circuit wiring for damage. Inspect all connections to the starter motor, relay, ignition switch, and battery, including all ground connections. Clean and tighten all connections as seen fit.Also keep in mind that the heavy gague input lead to the starter solenoid is hot at all times. Be careful to ensure the protective cap is installed over the terminal and replaced after service.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Note: When the battery has been disconnected and reconnected, some abnormal driveablilty symptoms may occur while the PCM relearns its adaptive strategy. It usually take about 10 miles of driving to relearn it, so take it easy.
2. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
3. Disengage the starter cable and the push-on connector from the starter solenoid.
4. Remove the upper and lower retaining bolts, then remove the starter motor from the vehicle.
5. Position the starter motor to the engine , then install the upper and lower retaining bolts finger tight.
6. Tighten the retaining bolts to 15-20 ft. pounds.
7. Engage the starter solenoid connector, making sure to push straight on until it locks into position, you will hear it click.
8. Install the starter calbe nut to the starter solenoid B terminal. Tighten the nut to 80-120 in. pounds, then install the red starter solenoid safety cap.
9. Lower the vehicle, then connect the negative battery cable.
Good Luck - D. Gavel
AnswerDisconnect one battery cable. You can disconnect the positive instead of the negative just for fun if you like, but don't arc out.Jack up the front of the car (and yadda set it on stands, yadda set parking yadda brake.)
The starter is bolted to the engine near the bottom on the side closer to the radiator. This is a very easy one to get to. You may need 13mm and 15mm sockets, both deep and short as well as wrenches of those sizes to remove it. On some cars a 17mm deep may also be required Be careful not to damage the ground strap on the lower mounting stud. This will be the easiest starter you ever replace unless you're using a Pep Boys guaranteed defective prostart brand unit that you'll replace within a few days.
If your transaxle has been replaced by a dimwit or slacktard, the nut on the lower mounting stud may not be removable in place any you may break the ground strap at that stud. If so, DO NOT forget to repair this ground strap.
Wear high quality thick latex gloves that fit well. Keep a few extra gloves and rags handy. If this is a 3.0L engine (not a 3.8L which has blown it's third head gasket by now) the starter will be covered in nasty partially burned oil because every time the filter is removed it drains onto the starter. Keep a few spare gloves handy.
AnswerLook for your oil filter.The starter should be just by where the filter is mounted.I'm looking at a close up picture so I have no idea where this is.- Disconnect the large cable from the terminal on the starter moter.- Remove the 2 bolts attaching the rear support bracket to remove bracket.- Remove the 2 bolts connecting the starter to the bellhousing.There should be a ground wire attached to the upper bolt.- transmission type: - automatic - remove starter between the radiator and subframe. - manual - remove starter between the subframe and engine.
Answerwhile your answer was good,may i suggest that folks always disconnect the battery first.This is always a good practice to follow anyway in order to prevent an aciccident or blown computer. AnswerStarter id almost dead center (from side to side) just benind the radiator, in the hardest possible location to reach, and it is right next to the oil filter. Ford was kind enough to leave no way to easily remove it, much less install a replacement. Be prepared to remove the fan, etc., and bring lights, extensions, floppy sockets, mirors, or a small child. Good luck.Asked by Wiki User
look for the wires, follow them to where they go on the engine. get a 5/8 spark plug wrench, turn to the left. installation is reverse of removal. be careful to make sure the you do not cross thread the new plugs. don't over tighten.
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i know they are hard to isatallthere are no spark plug in this car. Tjere called bolt-head plugs which each take 1 hour to isntal abd they must take takr the anterlator off and i remommend to take to a shhop because it will take about 4 to install them beceause the enhine must cone out and take to s ashop
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First of all, make sure your check engine light isn't on. If it is, it could very well be a computer related problem. If it's not on, how much voltage are you getting? You should be getting over 12V at power end of the coil. If not, it won't supply enough current to overcome the resistance of the spark plug gap. At the end of the coil leading to the distributor, you should have a very high voltage in which should be tested with a clamp type multimeter at the bare minimum. That will tell you if your primary system is working properly. If it is, make sure your connections are tight, your secondary wires are in working order, and make sure your distributor/cap/rotor are working properly. That should work.
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With the new fuel injected engine and improved ignition systems you should be able to go 100,000 before tune-up
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According to Champion spark plug applications chart, the gap for 2000 Pontiac Grand Am 4cyl engine is .050.