Spark Plugs and Wires

Spark plugs and wires relay electricity from a source into the engine and its components. Spark plugs take in an electrical impulse from the wire coming from the distributor to give the spark in an internal combustion.

15,354 Questions
Spark Plugs and Wires
Ford Taurus
Mercury Sable

Is there an easy way to change spark plugs on a Mercury Sable - Ford Taurus Duratec 24 valve engine?

For the 3.0 DOHC v6 engine, there is no easy way. Just did it and it took 3 hours.

The 3 front forward plugs take 10 minutes.

The rear 3 are a real bear. Had to take the manifold and other hoses off to get at the back 3. Even then, there's not a lot of visible access, so you'll be working by touch.

It's not a horrible task, just takes time and buckets of patience!.

More comments and advice:

My experience has been the same. It's not a horrible task, just takes time.

I agree. The intake manifold has to be removed. I did do it once without doing so, but I nearly cut my hand off trying to press it in there to get at everything. Using the old wires to "grab" the plugs once you loosen them with a 16mm deep socket is handy to know.


Take this opportunity to do some other maintenance:

  1. PCV valve - it's a real pain when the throttle body is in place!
  2. Spark plug wires - do them at the same time! For an extra $30 it is well worth it to "never" have to do it again.

General instructions for replacing spark plug wires

To Remove:

  1. Label each spark plug wire and make a note of its routing.
  2. Starting with the longest wire, disconnect the spark plug wire from the spark plug and then from the coil pack.
  3. Disconnect the ignition wire from the coil pack by squeezing the locking tabs and twisting while pulling upward.

To install:

  1. If replacing the spark plug wires, match the old wire with an appropriately sized wire in the new set.
  2. Lubricate the boots and terminals with dielectric grease and install the wire on the coil pack. Make sure the wire snaps into place.
  3. Route the wire in the exact path as the original and connect the wire to the spark plug.
  4. Repeat the process for each remaining wire, working from the longest wire to the shortest.

On DOHC model, 3 are on the front and easy to replace. Other 3 are on the back under the air intake manifold system. You need to take out air intake manifold system to access them.

do you have a 3.0, 24 valve DOHC or a 3.0, 12 valve?

Each plug has its own ignition coil (at least on my 2000). there should be one screw holding each one down. after that's removed, disconnect the electrical connector and pull the coil pack out. you will probably need a deep well spark plug socket to get at them. after they're out put your new ones in. just be sure to hand thread them at first... you don't want to cross thread. inspect your plugs to see how your engine is doing.

it really almost requires a third joint in your arm. its really hard to do, and unless youre adamant about doing it yourself, i would have it done by a mechanic

If you have the dual over-head cam engine, you need to remove the intake manifold. You should follow the advise of taking it to the mechanic.

Being cheap and DIY adventurous I tackled this job the other day. Here are some FYI and helpful tips:

1) Plan on removing the upper intake manifold. This is NOT as bad as you might think. ( has the step-by-step repair guide for this!)

2) I did NOT replace the gasket - just put the manifold back in place and all is well.

3) I found the rubber hose connected to the PCV valve to have totally collapsed! Plan on replacing *both* the valve and hose. The PCV valve is normally very hard to get at, so replace them now.

4) Replace the spark plug wires too! For the extra $29, you'll never find an easier time to replace them.

5) Tools: 5/16th socket with extensions - pliers for hose clamps - small spark plug socket - 10mm socket - torque wrench, especially for the manifold bolts as they're pretty small gauge.

By the way, I've heard the car experts talking about an induction system cleaning - you'll know what they're referring to when you see the accumulation of carbon build-up inside the intake manifold. I was leery of spraying this area down with cleaner and intend to research options.

This is a toughy. the rear wireset is behind the intake manifold and in a very tough to reach spot this can however be done. in this case someone with some thin arms would be your best choice. I'm doing the job my self and me have my gf give me a hand on removing the back ones. if anyone has some better advice on this feel free to add but doing this with out removing the manifold is the preferred way to go. ie save 230 on labor

Each plug is located under its own coil. You will see 3 circular "caps" on the front of the engine, 3 on the back. They say motocraft on them, you can't miss 'em. There's one screw that mounts each to the engine. Unscrew and pull. You will need a deep-well socket to get the plugs out (and flexibility to get the rear ones out- but it's not that bad.

What size engine???

For the 3.0 DOHC v6 engine, there is no easy way. Just did it and it took 3 hours.

The 3 frontside / forward plugs take 10 minutes.

The rear 3 are a real bear. Had to take the manifold and other hoses off to get at the back 3. Even then, there's not a lot of visible access, so you'll be working by touch.

It's not a horrible task, just takes time and buckets of patience!.

Take this opportunity to do some other maintenance:

1) PCV valve - it's a real pain when the throttle body is in place!

2) Spark plug wires - do them at the same time! Save yourself hours of work in the future.

See "Related Questions" below for much more information & instruction regarding spark plugs, wires, firing order, cylinder numbers, etc.

See "Related Questions" below for more information about removing the intake manifold

Spark Plugs and Wires

What is the spark plug gap for a 1999 Toyota Camry?

if you still need this info. Try looking at

AnswerI have a 4cyl 1999 Camry (5S-FE engine type)and both my owners manual and my Haynes manual states .043 inches
Spark Plugs and Wires

What is the spark plug gap for BPMR7A?

should be 33 mm

Spark Plugs and Wires

What is a gapless spark plug?

spark plugs must be 'gaped' to perform correctly. In doing this you make sure the the electrodes are just the right distance away from each other for the plug to fire at it's best. With gapless spark plugs there is no gaping necessary because there are two ground electrodes. Some people think this helps the gap last longer thereby increasing the life of the spark plug. They are also easyer to install because you don't have to check the gap.

Spark Plugs and Wires

Why does ford 2.3 motor need 8 spark plugs?

Its Fords twin plug ignition system - one spark plug fires on the power stroke and the other plug fires on the exhaust stroke to reduce emissions

Spark Plugs and Wires
Ford F-250
Ford Ranger XL
Appliance Voltage and Travel Issues

Can you plug a 115V appliance into a 120V outlet?

For residential service 110V, 115V, 117V, 120V, and 125V are all functionally the same. Electric companies have been slowly increasing the line voltage over the last 100 years to cope with increased loads. That is where these different voltages come from.

The tolerance is generally +/-10%. That's +/- 11.5 volts in this case. So, a 115VAC appliance will run between 103.5 and 126.5VAC.

The short answer is yes. 110V appliances can work with up to 130V without being burnt, additionally, 220V appliances can work with up to 240V without being burnt.

Lawn Mowers and Garden Tools
Spark Plugs and Wires

What is spark plug gap for Craftsman II Eager 1 5.3 HP lawnmower?

This is a Tecumseh engine. According to the Tecumseh web site all small engines have a 0.030 gap

Spark Plugs and Wires
Nissan Trucks and SUVs

Spark plug gap 98 tiberon 2.0?

SPARK PLUG GAP1998 Hyundai Tiburon 2.0L MFI DOHC 4cylThe Spark Plug Gap.044 (In thousandths of an inch)

Caution! Gap is not adjustable on certain plug brands

The Ignition Timing10 Degrees The Firing Order

Firing order 1-3-4-2 --- | 1 | front | | --- | 2 | |2 1| C of | | | | O | 3 | |3 4| I vehicle | | --- L | 4 | ___ distributorless ignition

Spark Plugs and Wires
Lexus GS
Toyota Sienna

How do you change the three back spark plugs on a 1999 Toyota Sienna?

Yes, changing out the spark plugs on Toyota's tranverse mount V6 engines is tough. I have a 2002 Sienna which is similar to all models 2003 and prior. The front 3 plugs are easy. But the back 3 are really tough to reach.

2001 and prior Siennas only need the Denso platinum plugs PK20TR11 which I think are dual head plugs. But older Siennas can probably still benefit from pricier iridium plugs because they fire more consistently at lower voltage and can take higher temperatures than platinum. I did some research on the web, and folks are raving about Denso Iridium Power IK20s. They are a bit more than the NGKs, but on eBay, I found a set of 4 for just $33-buy-it-now in CA. So I bought 3 sets (12 plugs total).

Tools you'll need - a common 3/8 inch square rachet socket driver. The overall length must not exceed 8 inches inches long and mine is a cheap one from any store. But I would recommend that the rachet have a push button socket release and a fine tooth rachet that clicks every 15 degrees. Next, you need a med-long extension. The spark plug is deep in the tube and you'll need ideally, 5 3/4 inches and no more than 6 1/2 inches max. Of course you need a standard spark plug socket. Additionally, you'll need a 5mm Allen wrench. and lastly, a 10 mm closed-end crescent wrench. Length should be no longer than 7 inches.

Installation: pop the hood, and remove the plastic engine cover. I assume you know how to remove the front plugs. So I'll only focus on the rear plugs.

Start on the right side. Unclip some of the vacuum hoses and spread them out to the sides of the opening. You should see a hole that extends back underneath the air intake and next to the exhaust manifold. Reach back there with your arm. feel for a 1 inch square block and securing hex bolt. Using feel only, use the 10mm closed-end box wrench and loosen the securing nut. A hard counterclockwise tweak should break it loose, and about a half dozen more small loosening motions should loosen the bolt so you can switch out and use your fingers. Remove the bolt and place it away from the engine in a safe place. Lift the boot assembly out. Watch to make sure the rubber grommet doesn't slide off and fall in the oblivion never to be found.

WithOUT the rachet driver, get the socket and extension and slide down tube, then reach in with rachet and unscrew the spark plug. Remove the rachet, and lift extension and spark plug out. If your socket doesn't grip the spark plug, take it out, wrap the lip with a little masking tape). Installation is the reverse of removal.

Get a new spark plug. Slide it inside the spark plug socket and make sure it grips but not too tightly. The plugs are pre-gapped at the factory and have a plastic sleeve to protect the head. You must NOT allow the plug to drop down the tube because the impact could bend the tip and affect the gap or damage the plug.

There are two metal compression washers on the spark plug. There's no room for a torque wrench back there, so tighten the plugs down until the compression washers just begin to feel like bottoming out. Then twist another 30 deg. Do NOT slide the boot/coil assembly back over the spark plug yet. The first boot must remain out from its tube to allow the second boot room for removal.

The middle boot assembly is a bit harder. It's just like the first, but you need to disconnect the wire harness clip to each boot/ignition coil.. With a single hand, rock the boot assembly a little until it lifts up and off the plug about 1 inch. Then turn the boot assembly clockwise a little and use the technique you practiced to unclip the wiring harness from the boot assembly. There is only room for one hand in there. Be persistent and follow technique and practice. Eventually, you should be able to get the wire clip off.

Now the boot/coil should lift out easily. Then use the spark plug socket and reach back in there and slide the socket down the tube and then attach the rachet driver and remove the spark plug. Installation the reverse of removal. Again, be careful about dropping any parts down into the engine.

The 3rd boot is like the 2nd, because you need to disconnect the wiring clip, but it's different in that instead of reaching in from the right side, most of the extraction uses the opening from the left side.

My dealer claims this can take 2 hours of labour. I used simple tools and did all six myself in 1 hour 15 minutes making lots of little mistakes. If you follow these directions and have simple tools and do not exceed my dimension recommendations, you should be able to get in there and do this in under 45 minutes. Good luck.

For more information on this and related procedures please visit:


After posting my original answer to a question on a different forum, I've noticed how started posting this blog. So I thought I'd add comments here. Well, I had to change my plugs again... putting lots of miles on the Sienna. This time I did this in just 45 minutes! The one danger I'd advise here is the pulling of spark plug wires. I recommend that folks use plenty of spark plug lube on the heads to avoid sticking over time and easier removal the next time you gotta do this.


Another reader comments: If you remove the windshield wiper cowling and tray, things are easier (but not easy) to access. I was able to change the plugs on my 2002 Sienna without removing any hoses or anything, just a ground wire that was in the way. To do this:

1. The engine should be cold. Open hood. Remove caps at base of wipers, remove wiper nuts, and wriggle off the wipers.

2. With needlenose pliers, squeeze the plastic holddown thingies under the front rim of the wiper tray, while pulling up on the gasket that runs along the top (hood gasket). Start at one end and work across until the gasket is removed. Remove wiper cowling by pulling up and towards the front of the car. There were 2 plastic holddown thingies on the sides that I couldn't remove, they just broke off. Disconnect wiper washer hose at connector on passenger side, remove hose from clips in tray, and lift out both cowling pieces.

3. Undo bolts holding the wiper tray, but not the two bolts on the front of the tray near the air filter (these hold the wiper motor assembly to the bottom of the tray).

Don't set the bolts in the tray, they could roll down a drain hole into the engine compartment. Lift the tray as far as you can (it's heavier than you would expect).

Disconnect the wiper wiring connector and push the wiring cable harness thing out of it's hole. Now you can remove the tray.

4. Remove the fresh air intake duct (for the passenger compartment, not the engine) by removing 3 plastic nuts.

Now you can actually see and reach the rear part of your engine. Since the spark plugs are all under the intake manifold, you pretty much have to work by feel. You can reach under it from either side once you remove the ground wire attached to the intake manifold assembly on the passenger side. (It's pretty obvious which wire, because it's in your way). With the proper selection of socket extensions, and lots of patience, you can replace the spark plugs without removing anything else, except for that little plastic cover on top of the engine.

Car Starting Problems
Spark Plugs and Wires

What causes no spark at spark plugs?

Defective coil, distributor, or emissions control device defective.

Car Starting Problems
Spark Plugs and Wires
Fuel and Fuel Intake
Toyota Tacoma

How often do you need to change your clow plugs in a diesel engine?

only time u need to change glow plugs is if glow plugs do not work, after testing all other parts of glow plug system

Spark Plugs and Wires

Why shouldn't you put too many plugs in a socket?

It will overblow and all the power will go out

Spark Plugs and Wires
Timing and Firing Orders
Ford Explorer Eddie Bauer

How do you remove a stuck spark plug?

I rewmoved a stuck plug on a dodge van 318 fuelinjected motor by using a socket that was 1 mm to small for the plug (21mm) and a can of air for dusting off computers. I turned the can sideways and frosted the plug then pounded the socket on and used a breaker bar ever so gently about three times and presto it tuned, hard at first then I pulled of the small soket and used the regular one no problem.

I have never heard of that, quite frankly. If the threads toward the piston are damaged, they wouldn't have gone in to begin with. (It sounds like the plug is coming out part way and then meeting resistance of bad threads or something.) Did a timing belt get off and let a piston smash a plug? The plug hole can be rethreaded if it's not too bad depending on the head material. I think I'd call my buddy at the head rebuilding shop.

My father, a heavy duty mechanic, says: "clear the area, use a propane torch to heat the head around the plug, try to take it out while the plug is cooler than the head". I'd suggest keeping a fire extinguisher on hand, though. My father is a little crazier than I am :)

I continually soak it in a high quality penetrating fluid. And turn it out a little and back in a little, back out a little and back in a little. Eventually, with a little skill you might get it without breaking. You may end up pulling the threads out of the head, but you can insert a heli-coil and get your new plug back in. May end up pulling the head if it doesn't go so well.

I recommend you go out and buy some Break Away and let it soak for about 15 to 20 min. Then work it back and forth until it comes loose.

Be sure you don't try the propane torch suggestion if you've already used a penetrating oil (or spray) of any sort-- you'd *definitely* need that fire extinguisher! It would be safer to apply something cold directly to the plug if you wish to take advantage of the same principle of differential thermal expansion/contraction, but I can't vouch for this technique as I've never used it. (The metal presumably conducts heat (and cold) better than the ceramic plug, so this reverse technique is doubtful.) Personally, I vote for the repeated applications of penetrating oil (let it soak) combined with *patient* back-and-forth screwing and unscrewing as recommended above. (And in the future use an antiseize compound on the threads of the new plugs and change them more frequently!--They're cheap!)

In regards to using "anti-seize" compound, it's NOT a good idea to use this. It will reduce the friction your plug needs to torque the plug correctly (9 ft lbs. usually, check manuals). If you are unfamilliar with anti-seize compound or toque wrench usage, it is best to dry install. Hand tighten, then tighten a quarter turn after that. (aluminum heads only) As far as removing the spark plug, it's best to take it to a automotive shop. To do it yourself (depending if the spark plug is still whole or just the outer threads remaining in the head), PB Blaster is good to help "loosen" the grip of the reminant plug. You will need extractors and an extractor T-handle. Best bet though is to take it to a shop, as they are responsible for any further damages resulting from extraction. Shops are pretty darn good at this practice. Well worth the money and hardship. Appox. price range is 50-150 dollars.

First--I agree with the spray it and then rock it back and forth crowd. I'll go both ways on the anti-seize: You CAN get away without it (just don't overtighten or go too long between changes). BUT, you can also use it; just don't use too much. It does make it easier next time.

Second--JUST TO MAKE SURE--no one has mentioned/asked are you using a spark plug puller? There are specialty tools for this; they come stock w most ratchet sets. They have the rubber boot inserted to help not damage the plug and to cushion the application of force. USE ONE OF THOSE. Now for the upsell--they also have specialty tools (cheap) for getting the plug out that are like a wrench w a knuckle so you can twist better without having just a straight shot only. Specialty tools are not always necessary--but they are always helpful. You local stores have these--just ask. Take a slow walk through the tool aisle.

Heat could be the answer but I don�t recommend the blow torch idea. Try running the engine up to normal operating temperature then unscrew the plug 1 /4 turn. Re-tighten it a bit less than 1 /4 turn and then unscrew it a bit more. Repeat this until the plug is free. If the plug is simply too tight or snaps there used to be a "helicoil" kit available. Admittedly it's been a few years since I quit the trade and I don't know if they are still produced. But using these kits involved removing the head, drilling out the stuck plug, tapping a new oversize thread and inserting a "helicoil".

Some times being at a bad angle can make a big difference. If your at a bad angle with a standard ratchet try a flex head ratchet with a long handle (can also help in cramped areas) and/or possibly a long t-handle. Like everyone says above let it soak with penetrating oil like Liquid Wrench. I got mine to break loose this way. I was afraid to put too much force on it, but if you don't try hard enough you prolly won't get it/them loose. I also suggest using anti-sieze when reinstalling.

Auto Parts and Repairs
Spark Plugs and Wires
Timing and Firing Orders
Toyota Tacoma

Change spark plug wire it broke off?

Did it break close to the boot (point closes to the plug)? Be more specific with your question.

Spark Plugs and Wires

Which is the spark plug gap on a bowlen bl110 weed eater?


Auto Parts and Repairs
Spark Plugs and Wires

Can a loose battery cable cause no spark at the plugs?

A loose battery cable can cause no spark at the plugs, it can also cause your car not to start.

Some newer cars need a min. 10 volts to run. Dirty cables can cause the same problem too.

answerdefinetly yes a loose cable stops proper voltage getting to where it needs to be tighten cable and see if that fixes problem loose cable will also prevent proper recharging of battery
Spark Plugs and Wires
Car Stalling Problems

What can cause a cylinder misfire?

Faulty: spark plug, spark plug wire, ignition coil, ignition module, fuel injector are the most common. Coolant leaking into a cylinder is another.

Internal engine problems such as burnt valve, broken valve spring, bent push rod, worn rings

Faulty: spark plug, spark plug wire, ignition coil, ignition module, fuel injector are the most common. Coolant leaking into a cylinder is another.

Internal engine problems such as burnt valve, broken valve spring, bent push rod, worn rings

Distributors and Distributor Caps
Spark Plugs and Wires
Kia Sportage

Where are the spark plugs located on a 2001 Kia Sportage and how do you replace them?


They're under the valve cover on top of the motor. You will have to dig to get to them.

They're straight down, under the black cap and between the two cam halves, like on any other DOCH engine. You have to remove the throttle body intake hose from the air box, disconnect the throttle linkage, remove the black cover, then remove the coil packs. You'll also need at least a 6" extension on your spark plug socket. Make sure it has the rubber ring to grasp the spark plug.

This isn't a hard job once you remove the top intake tube leading into the throttle body. You can reuse the throttle body gasket. It's metal, so don't throw it away or worry about buying a new one.

Spark Plugs and Wires
Ford Taurus
Mercury Sable

What is the best way to change the rear spark plugs on a Ford Taurus 3.0 DOHC?

It is not hard, Many say they can do it without removing the upper Intake or plenum as I will call it but I found removing the plenum takes about 15 minutes at most and made access to the plugs much easier.

First Remove the EGR valve on the front of the plenum right behind the Throttle body. All it takes is a 10MM socket to remove 2 nuts and 2 bolts. Get some new Gaskets for the EGR valve. You can probably get by just removing the 2 upper bolts but I found things are easier if you just get it out of the way.

Then go to the passenger side of the plenum. There is a vacuum switch that you just pull the hoses off and disconnect the electrical wires that go to it. Now you can remove the plenum.

Use an 8MM socket to remove the 8 easily accessed bolts that hold the plenum on. Now you can rotate the plenum up and towards the drivers side to get the clearance for the rear plugs, You don't need much. I believe that the gasket is part of the plenum and it is reusable.

Change the plugs and put it all back together.

Watch out for the Vacuum hose under the Plenum near the Throttle body, it will probably come off when you lift the plenum up and you really can't see it. It will cause a misfire and set DTC's P1131 and P1151(O2 sensor lean). I ended pulling the plenum twice before I found that hose. If it wasn't for that hose coming loose the job would have took me less then 45 minutes. Pretty easy job just pull the plenum and make your life easy.

If you have a Vulcan 12 valve engine, the spark plugs are accessible by reaching around behind the engine from the driver's side.

If you have a 24 valve, the easiest way is to remove the upper intake manifold. I have done this without removing it, by tediously removing the ignition coil, which is held on with three 10mm bolts, and then using whatever combination of three inch and six inch socket extensions to access the plugs, but that is an aggravating way to do it. The best way is unbolt the manifold, suspend it with a bungee cord, and access your plugs.

General instructions for replacing spark plug wires:To Remove:
  1. Label each spark plug wire and make a note of its routing.
  2. Starting with the longest wire, disconnect the spark plug wire from the spark plug and then from the coil pack.
  3. Disconnect the ignition wire from the coil pack by squeezing the locking tabs and twisting while pulling upward.

To install:

  1. If replacing the spark plug wires, match the old wire with an appropriately sized wire in the new set.
  2. Lubricate the boots and terminals with dielectric grease and install the wire on the coil pack. Make sure the wire snaps into place.
  3. Route the wire in the exact path as the original and connect the wire to the spark plug.
  4. Repeat the process for each remaining wire, working from the longest wire to the shortest.

This is a fun one. Either the engine has to be rolled forward or you have to take the intake apart to get to them and still need long skinny arms. I would pay to have it done. It's not too expensive.

There is no easy way, period. The front plugs are out in the open, but the back plugs are under the upper intake manifold. I have tried removing the coil from the rear valve cover to get more room. I've tried working every combination of extension down into the tiny little room there is, and I still find it easier to remove the upper intake manifold, and hold it up out of my way with a bungee cord.

i have 02 sable with same engine. im changing my plugs as well. ive replaced the back pressure sensor, coolant temp sensor, all within the same week. ford is not my fav make. esp since it has been designed shade tree mechanic unfriendly.

I agree with you so much. The Chilton and Haynes books on Taurus and Sables 1996 to 2005 are not much help. The 3.0L Duratec DOHC engine and the 3.0L OHV engine are very different the books cover each barely. Haynes and Chilton are now the same publishing group. Information is harder to get.

Duratec motor? If so, remove the upper intake manifold.

Vulcan motor? Should be able to do it with minimal dexterity and no other dis-assembly required.

The front spark plugs, cylinder number 4-6 are easy, since they are i the open, but the rear spark plugs, cylinder numbers 1-3 are under the intake manifold plenum assembly. It will be necessary to remove the upper intake manifold to gain access and replace the rear spark plugs. You have to take off the intake to reach them.

Well if you can't see them when you open the hood you probably have a 24 valve engine. 1,2,3 are under intake. You can still get to them pretty easy. Go to they show you what tools to use and how to replace plugs with photos, plus it's free and they don't try to sell you anything.

Pull coils off which are directly attached to each spark plug as there are no plug wires or distributor. Plugs are fired directly by computer; use rubber lined socket and when reinstalling take a 1 foot long piece of rubber hose that fits snugly on top post of spark plug to restart in threads in head.Make sure you do not cross thread when installing. Also--- prior to removing plugs always blow out wells where spark plugs are to prevent accumulated dirt from falling into cylinder when removing plugs.

You have to remove the coil pack that is located on top of the spark plug. When you unbolt the coil pack it will move to the side to give you enough room to get the spark plug wrench on the plug. Unscrew the plug and after setting the gap on the new plug reverse the process.


you want to be careful doing this. To get the best position on the back plugs you need to take the upper intake manifold off... should have six bolts. carefully remove those. next take off your air intake hose that's attached to the throttle body. This allows you to move the intake out of the way better. Then locate the EGR valve and all you have to do is remove the two bottom nuts which i think are 10mm. Okay, now you should be able to get to those spark plugs. Once you have all those put in you need to look to make sure that when u pulled the intake manifold off that no hoses came detached. There is one right under the throttle body towards the back that tends to come off when you lift it up. If when you start your car and you hear a whistling noise, then you know that a hose popped off so just be careful and double check to make sure you tighten and reconnect everything.

Be sure to review the "Related Questions" below for even more information

Spark Plugs and Wires
Dodge Ram

How many spark plugs does a 2003 dodge ram 5.7 have?


Spark Plugs and Wires
Motorcycle Safety

Do you need ear plugs when riding a motorcycle?

In the opinion of Timberwoof of Timberwoof's Motorcycle FAQ, "An hour at highway speeds will subject your ears to enough wind noise to cause some hearing loss."

Need: If you want to maintain your hearing as well as you can in your later years.

Want: Probably. While strictly speaking they aren't necessary. At higher speeds (50 or more), a helmet gets very loud. Hearing damage due to loud noise is cumulative, so the more you ride at 50+ MPH, the more you will benefit from ear plugs. It's also far less fatiguing to ride at highway speeds with ear plugs in--the fatigue being pretty much exactly what you feel after attending a long, loud music concert. That being said, many would argue that earplugs can be hazardous when riding through town at low speeds. They may keep you from hearing engines, brakes, horns, sirens, screams, etc. at low speed, but many do not find this to be the case. In fact, people often find they can hear more of the meaningful sounds such as those mentioned above and less of the unimportant ambiant sounds.

Conclusion: Use earplugs based on the riding you'll be doing that day. Be extra careful on your first ride with earplugs while you become comfortable.


This question has been answered twice one saying yes and the other saying no or (not always). So based on those two answers we can be clear that one of them is right.

NOTE: When it comes to hearing loss there is only one thing we are in control of and that is noise. Noise is the enemy of hearing, and many doctors are discovering that it doesn't take as much noise as previously thought to cause temporary or permanent hearing loss.

I'm going to give you a quota I found in research done by the World Health Organization (WHO) and the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA). Which states that as little as 30 minutes of exposure to decibel levels measured on a Motorcycle has the potential to result in hearing loss.

With that said: I as a motorcyclist for many years have never used ear plugs... and my last hearing test did not show any hearing lost even after a good 20 some years riding a motor at least 5 days a week.. since I use it as my main mode of transportation from work and back..

My advice to anyone riding a bike... consider exactly what you are doing... if you are like me and ride it daily but for short periods of time and wear a good helmet... then you do not really need them... however if you going for a long trip... consider ear plugs..

My opinion is that people that use headphones have more to worry about their hearing then a motorcycle rider that is wearing his or her helmet and is operating their bike in a matter that is reasonable.

Another opinion from a rider who commutes over 500 miles a week on either a Kawasaki Concours or a Honda VTX 1800 - wear earplugs. Hearing damage is cumulative and does not recover. I have been riding for 25 years and only the last few have been wearing earplugs. I now have slight tinnitus (ringing of the ears). Wearing earplugs greatly reduces high frequency noise, but can also transmit low frequency noise from your hemet liner directly to your ear, if part of the earplug touches the liner. Consider a set of Eyptomic 20Db plugs, which allow you to hear some traffic noise while protecting you from louder noise damage. Costs about $15 for a set that will last about 15K miles.

Another opinion: All of your senses are needed for rider safety. Hearing included, obviously helping you be aware of engine tone, approaching vehicles, changes in weather conditions, a warning horn etc.

Spark Plugs and Wires
Ford Expedition XLT

What does plugging in your car do?

It simply heats the engine block. So things like oil don't thicken due to cold weather.

Spark Plugs and Wires
Boats and Watercraft
Watercraft Engine Maintenance

What is the spark plug gap for a 1994 Johnson 50 HP outboard motor?

The plug gap for a 94 model, 50 hp Johnson is .030-.035 in.

Seat Belts and Safety Systems
Spark Plugs and Wires
Chevy Corvette
Grand Prix SE

Can you replace lap belts on a 1976 Corvette with shoulder belts?

Yes you can. I purchased a rebuilt set from Davie's corvettes parts and accessories in 2004. They cost me about $400.00. The old pullies are removed from under the seats and from behind the shoulders of the driver and passenger seats. The car will have manufactured holes in the body to insert the bolts through. Good luck Correct. They're available from almost any Corvette specialty supplier, not just Davie's. I would NOT recommend a used set, EVER, since you really don't know exactly what kind of shape the mechanisms are in. -ku2002 1976 Corvettes came from the factory with shoulder belts, FYI. Anyhow your old ones can be restored to factory new condition by a company called SSnake Oyl. --Dave.

Spark Plugs and Wires

What is the proper gap for a champion RN11YC4 spark plug?

Depends on usage, should be around .040 inch

Depends on usage, should be around .040 inch


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