in my 1983 caprice..you have to take off the screws inside the trunk against the wall closest to where you are standing when you open the trunk...there should be about four rubber screws...and if you stick your head inside and look into each corner closest to you...there should be about 3 metal screws on each side...take those off...and once all the srews have been removed...you should be able to slide off the whole piece that contains the rear tail lights and turning signals...replace them as you normal would by turning the bulbs to the left...pulling them out...and placing a new bulb inside..
1) Remove the neg.(-) cable from the battery. 2) you may need to jack up the vehicle to working height. Be sure to install jack stands under the veh. make sure that the veh. is secure and safe to be under. 3) locate starter. remove the positive battery cable from starter. then remove the starter retaining bolts. may be a 2 or 3 bolt starter. 4) before taking the starter to the parts house for replacement. check the starter to be sure that you are replacing the bad part. do this with a simple set of jumper cables and a good battery. connect the positive leads of ther cables to positive (+) on the battery and the starter lug (+). the neg (-) leads to the neg (-) battery. now take the only neg (-) cable end left and touch the body of the starter ( where the mount holes are) you 'll get a spark, but the starter should spin and the bendix will come out.if no spinning or slow spinning and a real heavy sparking then the starter needs replacing. these instructions can be utilized for almost any vehicle application.
Try these sources: Numrich gunpartscorp.com
Jack First jackfirstgun.com
Bob's Gun Shop gun-parts.com
All Oxygen Sensors are located in the exhaust eitherbefore or after the catalytic converter. Your O2 sensor may not be defective as a vacuum leak can cause the code.
if your skilled enough in wireing have colour codes for spkrs can make or buy a facia plate i managed to v carefully cut the original partof the facia for the new CD to fit in original hole that old radio came out of on my 78 79 85 caprices made a plate for my 91 as hole was twice as big good luck Dave .cop
If you don't have spark at the plugs, or at the distributor cap, the problem is probably a faulty ignition module. This is located under the distributor cap and ignition rotor. You need test equipment to check the coils, modules and pole pieces.
1. Remove the four screws out of the back of the steering wheel and pull off the front cover / airbag assembly.
2. After removing the nut / washer / sleeve use a steering wheel puller to remove the hub.
3. Remove the turn signal assembly, should be 2 screws this will expose the ignition.
4. Remove the screw that goes through the backside of the ignition and the ignition should come right out.
same fuse box , left side under dash up high on firewall , left side of brake pedal.
Much easier to get owners book and in back it has a picture of fuse box and all the fuse locations for the box so you dont have to try and read upside down from under steering wheel. Ecklers $15 or copy page from someone with the service manual. $90+
One mile in 4.13793 minutes if running at 14.5 mph.
Where is the choke relay located on a 87 Chevy caprice?
it is 86.94 m.p.h. all you need to do is multiply 0.621 by 140
Dash components can be changed to digital gauges. An online search should show several companies that show a digital conversion for a 93 Caprice.
Try replacing your Oxygen sensors they are located on the catalytic converter. I had the same problem with my 94 Caprice and that turned out to be the problem.
sounds like a bad wheel bearing.
you could aslo have a loose lug nut or one of them have been stripped happened on my friend's 87 caprice
could also be a bent axle shaft.
id go to a junk yard and get a used one off another Chevy i had a cutlass did
that nd sure enough tire came off along with the shaft....something to think about huh?
You should change the key cylinder, it is available from most auto parts stores. The new cylinder will come with a new set of keys and they you'll be fine. Changing the cylinder isn't too hard, I managed it in about an hour when I was 15, you should likely also get a repair manual for the car as it will aid you with diagrams and steps for dis-assembly.
The first problem is that the driveshaft will almost definitely not be the right length. You must have at least 3/4 of the yoke slid on to the output shaft of the transmission. If you don't, you will have severe vibration that will not only ruin the u-joint, but will also cause damage to the tail housing, the yoke bushing, and possibly the output shaft.
The second problem is that the transmission will likely not match up to the crossmember properly. You can overcome this by welding 1/4' steel extension plate to the crossmember to reach the transmission mount location on the transmission as long as it is only a few inches off. If it is more than two or three inches off, you will need to either move your crossmember (which will involve frame channeling or boxing, or you will have to have a custom crossmember built.
Third, and this is the biggest problem, is the kickdown linkage. A powerglide's kickdown mechanism is rod driven, not cable operated. You will need to custom build a rod to match up to the throttle body, not to mention figure out a way to connect the rod to the TBI.
Fourth, you will have no speedometer, no cruise, and a host of other potential problems because the VSS (Vehicle Speed Sensor) will not be present any longer.
The short answer is, yes, you can make anything work, but it will not be a direct swap.
The biggest question is why in the world anyone would do this. The only thing a powerglide is good for anymore is drag racing. But based on the fact that you asked whether it will fit behind a weaser 260 makes me wonder if you are doing it for that reason.
If you are trying to get away from using the 4L60E overdrive, a much better solution will be a 700R4 from an '88 or later 2WD truck. It is a much closer swap and will only require slight changes particularly with the VSS configuration. Everything else is a direct swap.
As far as gear ratios go, the 700R4 has a much better 1st gear ratio than a powerslide. (3.08:1 vs. 2.76:1).
If you are still bent on not using an overdrive, a TH350 would be a good alternative. They're cheap, powerful, and much easier to put in. BTW, you'll need to find one with a 9" tailshaft out of a 69-86 2WD truck or a 69-76 B-Body car. The kickdown is cable operated and I believe you can get adapters to compensate for the VSS problem.
Sounds to me like a lot more work than it's worth. Used 4L60E transmissions can be had for a few hundred bucks at the salvage yard. Probably less than you will spend or modifications to make something else work and certainly less time.
auto body repair technician, aka. mud slinger , mud man, dent jerker, body guy, body man.
if its in the reservoir it should be in the radiator of it is then it has a blow head gasket or a crack head
Too Much Car, Not Enough Engine. This Is Not A Race Car It Was Not Designed To Burn Out. If You Want To Remove The Engine And Spend About $ 2500.00 To $ 4500.00 It Will Burn Out. Just Drive It Like It Was Designed.
your engine is probably worn out and not as Strong as it use to be i have the same car and i can burn out no mods stock exhaust plus there is no need to burn out just ruin your car faster but hey who am i to judge i burn out sometimes just for show
You dont. It is an LT1 engine and the distributor is behind the water pump.