remove the pass. finder linner and find plug to the motor and disconnect it
YES THEY WILL FIT, IF YOU DON'T WANT TO RAISE IT THEN USE 255/30/TIRES. IF YOU WANT TO USE BIGGER TIRES THEN YOU WILL HAVE TO RAISE IT.
That would be 124 miles an hour.
Yes. If you don't know what you are doing you might mess things up so that you won't be able to get the car to the shop. If you want to try, then this is the way to go about it. First thimg that you must do is to measure the resistance in that little chip in the upper part of the key, then you have to go to Radio Shack and buy a resistor with the same rating. The best thing to do is to solder the resistor in place but if you are not sure about that then make sure that you buy connectors, when you have all of the parts. You then remove the lower steering column cover you should then see two wires that are molded together with a plug about 18 inches from the cylinder where you insert the key (this is not actually the ignition switch). The wires that you are looking for are stiffer than the other wires under the dash if you have a problem finding the correct wires then you can go to the local public library and find the correct wiring diagrams (remember to take some change with you so you can make a copy of the correct page). I have 25 years experience in auto repair.
The pair of two wires under the column are often inside a thicker orange colored jacket that insulates them. Be sure to plan ahead so that the spot along the wires that you splice in the resistor will be in an area with the least amount of interference from other moving parts or your legs when getting in and out of car. If this delicate connection gets bumped or comes apart, your car wont start or wont stay running because the computer will shut down your injectors. A good rule to remember is to watch the yellow SECURITY light when you first turn on the ignition to start the car. It should go right back off. If it does not, you have to correct the problem and remember to wait 3 minutes between start attempts, even if you fixed the problem sooner.
All you have to do to save yourself some trouble is go to a car audio and security shop around your house and ask the main alarm installer there to draw you a diagram on how to bypass the key on your car. most likely he will be able to give you a copy of such diagram and he can also give you the part you will need to do the job. This will cost you no more the 30 bucks or so.
The pully is pressed on, you need to get a pully remover.
I would take it to Advance Auto Parts, they are really good at helping you do this type of thing. Of course you would probably want to buy the hoses there as well. Advance does all kinds of free things for people. They also lend most speciality tools there for free (with deposit) which is cool.
If it is just sputtering like it's trying to stay running, you need higher octane fuel in it or put a fuel system cleaner in the tank... I prefer chemtool B-12
Yes a caprice is cause cheap to work and it American made
Between 3600 and 3700 lbs.
Check the vacuum hose under the hood. May have a leak or have been disconnected.
Also check -
The blower - this includes its motor, fan and associated components/wiring. Next to check is the coil (this looks like a small radiator) through which the blower moves air is clogged. Check if the vents themselves are clogged.
The only main problem you are going to have is there is no dual exhaust cross member available as far as I know, but a good custom pipe bender at a muffler shop can pancake the driverside pipe. Which means they square off the pipe where it won't hang below the crossmember's nonexistant hump. If you run dual after market converters it should pass emmissions.
If you want the look of duals, go to Big Al's muffler and break. They do cat-back (from the converter back) duals for $200. I don't think putting true duals on this car is worth the money as you need another converter not to mention the problems mentioned above.
Actually, you can get a dual humped cross-member out of an older model Caprice cop car, but they're hard to find.
No, that is not true. No 77-90 B-Body GMs had double hump crossmembers. Even the 9C1s had a single converter that split into two pipes.
One option is to take the cross member to a good welder and have him cut a section out, flip it over and re-weld it. Then use 1/4" angle iron to reinforce the cross member. Use it on both sides of the C M and extend the angle iron 6" in either direction from the out side edge of your modification.
The following description is for vehicles equipped with factory A/C. Procedure will be simillar for non A/C cars. The heater core on all 1977 through 1990 GM B-Bodies is located under the hood, NOT under the dash. It was not moved to the inside of the car until 1991. To remove the heater core you will need to remove the blower motor, the rear hood weather strip, the cowl screen, the passenger side washer nozzle and the wiring connections for the blower motor and the blower motor resistor. Once you have removed these items there will be approximately 10 7mm (or 1/4") coarse thread screws to remove and a few 10mm bolts. Some are on the outside of the heater box, some are inside the box. BE GENTLE WHEN TRYING TO PRY THE BOX OPEN!!! They will crack in a hurry of you are too rough. Once you have removed the box top, there will be a retaining clip holding the heater core down. It may have a ground strap connected. Be sure to reconnect this strap. It reduces alternator noise in the radio. If it is still intact, be gentle with the foam that is covering the tube opening. You might want to just replace it with a new piece. A piece of soft foam car wash sponge will work well. When you reinstall the cover, be sure to replace the weather strip adhesive. If you can't find the correct stuff red rtv silicone works well (in generous portions). If you don't seal the box, YOU WILL have a wet floor every time it rains. Once you have everything buttoned up, run the vehicle with the heat on full blast until it gets to operating temperature. Check your antifreeze level and fill as needed. Caution! Never open the radiator when the cap is under pressure. You can be seriously burned. This job should take a beginner about two careful hours. After you've done a few, you'll knock that time down to about 45 mins. Here's a helpful trick. Grab a 6-10" scrap of 1/2 inch copper pipe to slide into both heater hoses when you remove them from the heater core. Tighten the clamps down and you will save yourself a lot of mess and you won't have to replace nearly as much anti-freeze.
There are certain legal steps that you need to take when starting any small business
I don't think it has a relay just fuse *If the fan does not work at all the fan motor has probably gone bad. They are cheap and easy to install on this car. If it works only on one speed then you could have a vacuum problem inside the HEAT AC DEF control. I had a vacuum fitting go bad an I could hear air hissing and the switch wouldn't work. After I replaced the switch it worked just fine. -VBdenny-
According to my search it is 170 mph.
Test all the fuses in the fuse box that's on the driver side of the dash , it could just be a blown fuse.
I had a '91 Chevy Caprice witht he 350 motor in it so the precedure should be the same for your car.First diconnect the positive battery terminal from the battery.Second jack the front of the vehicle up and support it securely on jackstands,make sure you push on the vehicle a few times to make sure it is secure on the stands.Now get under the vehicle on the passenger side and locate the starter,should be near where the motor and trans are connected.Now disconnect the wires going to the starter marking them to make reinstallation easier.Next remove the two bolts holding the starter in place,making sure you support the starter before you remove the last bolt so it doesn't fall on you.Now remove the starter from the vehicle.(Just a side note,if you take it to most auto parts stores such as Advance Auto Parts they will test it for free and tell you if it is bad or not.)Installation is the reverse of removal. .
There should also be a cross member that you have to remove before your starter will come free. There are three bolts holding it to the car frame.
92 CHEVY CAPRICE Starter removal For SINGLE Exaust it's not like a truck, or Duel Exaust where you can just loosen two bolts and drop it .The Exaust "Y"s together on the passenger side of the vehicle, right below the starter .You can't really drop the down pipe from the flange because it's fragile and usually very rusty . you have to take off the bracket on the frame next to the down pipe , and wiggle it out that way.
It's about 91 mph
I own one, you can adjust it. There are two adjustment screws, one for each jet, but they are hidden behind a seal, you have to drill through a plastic like cap that cover the adjustment screws, email me for more specific details.
It is at the engine end of the upper rad hose. When replacing it make sure the spring goes toward the engine,.AnswerIf you live in a warm climate use a 180 degree thermostat. For cold climates use a 195. One caution on this job, use blue RTV to seal the gasket and do not overtightene as you can break the "ears" of the cover.
No matter where you live you HAVE to use a 195 degree thermostat as the engine computer must recognize that temperature so as to get the proper fuel/ air ratio.
My 93 Caprice started with a significant hesitation, that eventually morphed into a no run condition. I replaced the distributor cap and rotor, ignition module, ignition coil, fuel pump and fuel filter all to no avail. I had to have the car towed into a repair facility where they diagnosed the problem as a faulty pickup coil (located on the distributor shaft below the plate where the ignition module mounts. The car hasn't quit running since. Good Luck! Start with the fuel filter, either on the firewall or in the fuel line under the car. Do you have water in the gas? Are your injectors clean? Are your air filter, PVC valve clean? A lot more info required here. try the map sensor , it can be a vaccuum leak and not the fuel at all . If this doesn't solve the problem you should try the control module . Most modules when bad seem like the fuel is cutting off when actually it is the spark . The in-line fuel filter under the driver's side of the car may be dirty or clogged. Be careful replacing it b/c it spurts gasoline for a couple seconds. Keep track of the fuel guage also, if it is less than half (usually a quarter tank) and this symtom occurs, the fuel pickup in the fuel tank can be off by this much and the fuel will slosh in the tank and not stay under the pickup hence the cutoff of fuel symptom. Occurs on hard left corners when all the fuel flows to right,due to pickup orientation. The in tank baffle can break (there glued on the plastic ones)and cause this also. The harder the left, the more the cut off of fuel to the point of stalling the motor. Replacing the fuel pump and sender and/or fuel tank would be the cure if this proved to be the reason. I also keep my 91 at least half full of gas because of the known issue of poor baffleing on the stock plastic tanks, guess they never figured anyone was gonna put a performance suspension and 450 HP in one eh... lol One other thing needs to be considered with this type of problem is that after about 75,000 miles the throttle body develops a fairly significant carbon build up. You can clean it yourself or a Chevy dealer will clean it for under $200. If you choose to clean it yourself I recommend you spend some time at a junkyard and practice on one of their cars so you have an idea of what you are getting into. VBD Could be an electrical connection. I though my problem was fuel oriented too, but worked great when I fixed a similar sounding problem by replacing the distributor cap/rotar. Ran great and smooth afterwards. Startup better too.
Yes, Its very difficult and rather expensive.
Check the fuse for the instrument lights, it may be blown. Another possibility is that you have inadvertently turned the instrument lights off. You can Rotate the headlight switch to adjust the instrument light brightness or to turn them off altogether.
passenger side before the fueltank up under the body It is mounted on the frame ahead of the passenger rear tire
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