Depends on application: off-road, touring, mud & sleet, snow, etc.: America's Tire, or Discount Tires
Why? Because the replacement warranty and availability is one of the best if not theee best. Just 1 person's opinion who use to work in the auto industry & owned many different vehicles from small cars to off-road 4WDs. Good luck!
Trundle means to roll, move on wheels, or walk with a rolling gait. The trundle bed rolls beneath the day bed. I will trundle to town on my bicycle. My son trundled down the hallway and went to bed.
Because your brakes, when applied, "straiten" the rotor (disk) from a cockeyed angle. To put it simply, your wheel bearings are worn and while driving, the rotor, wheel and tire are at a slight angle. The "wear indicators" (a small piece of metal attached to the pads on the top) built into the brake pads are temporarily rubbing against the rotor. When you apply the brake, it temporarily returns the group back to where is should be as if it were new, stopping the indicators from touching the rotor.
Thought i should add that if your wheel stops squeaking when you depress the pedal it is usually a sign of ball-bearing wear. The wheel will squeak through braking if the brakes are done, or worn.
Here are more opinions and answers from other contributors:
Not if you do it right. If the vehicle is a Chrysler, most independent mechanics can reset tire size in the vehicle's computer to keep the transmission shift opoints and speedometer correct and on a GM, the dealer can do this for you as well.
If the vehicle is something else, just make sure the overall diameter of the tire is the same. Unfortunately, the sizes are usually a bit complicated, as they use a combination of US Standard (fractional) and Metric (SI) units in a single size. While a 31x10.5x15 tire has an overall diameter of pi*31in, a P205/75r15 has an overall size of (((205mm*0.75*2)+15in)*pi).
Depending on your tire size type, just plug in the numbers and you'lkl see what the overall diameter is. If can do 6th grade algebra, you can compute the most appropriate size tire for the new rim size to keep overall size nearly the same. Ask you kids for help if needed.
The speedometer is calibrated based on the overall tire diameter on the vehicle from the factory. If you put larger rims on with sidewalls as high as the original tires, the speedometer will not be accurate as the overall tire diameter has increased.
I've been told that you can "net out" the difference of bigger rims with thinner tires (i.e. the diameter of the tire/wheel stays the same).
If you change the diameter your speedo will NOT be accurate. Tire shops may have some idea as to how much it will be off. The best thing would be to have a mechanic recalculate your speedo.
if you get bigger tires (like i have) i have 35x12.5 tires on 15 inch rims.. but in your case if you had a 15 inch rim on 20 inch tires and bumped it up to a 20 inch tire on 18 rims, your speedo shouldn't change, and if you are having it done, they would recal. anyway..just ask the tire place.answer
if combined wheel and tire diameter is bigger than factory specs , your speedo will be inaccurate. most tire shops have no idea or the equipment to recalibrate a good mechanic can recalibrate if your vehicle has a computer
dang, i think all he wanted to know was--- you will be going faster that what the speeddometer says
I don't know about the rest , but when i changed mine to a bigger wheel yes the speedometer did change thus i got a ticket for going TO FAST.....
taller tires always slows the speedometer. so you are actually traveling a little bit faster than the speedo indicates to you..
rim size has nothing to do with this.
tire height is where it is.
WRONG! IT IS THE OVERALL DIAMETER WHICH IS IMPORTANT. SPEEDOMETER CALIBRATION CAN BE ACCEPTABLY OK IF A LARGER RIM IS FITTED WITH A LOWER SIDEWALL HEIGHT TIRE, BUT YOU NEED TO CALCULATE BOTH TOTAL DIAMETERS. SO, RIM SIZE IS IMPORTANT TOO.
if you want to change speedometer,
you can get a odometer correction tool to change.
If you are buying larger rims, have the dealer figure the tire that will still match the tire rotation speed as the OEM tire.
I would like to add that many of the same exact vehicles have different size tires and rims from the factory.
A 1998 Dodge Caravan comes standard with 205-70-14 but the same Dodge Caravan can get custom alloy rims and they would be 215-65-16...the exact same turning speed as the 14" tires and rims.
Torque and angular speed of axle are not decided by size of tire, but by engine. Although M.I. of the tire contributes its effects on torque and angular speed, it is not significantly. So tires can only control traction force. Tractor is supposed to run on soft terrain like farm where coefficient of friction is comparatively low. So there is a engineering challenge of less available traction force. If a smaller rear wheel is used then for a particular torque available from engine it can produce higher traction force (Torque = Force x radius) but only on the terrain where sufficient coefficient of friction is available, and if terrain is soft and we try to produce high traction by reducing size of tire, the tractor will skid, which is undesired. That is why larger rear wheels are used in tractors.
yes and it looks sick, fills yhe wheel well up nice but u must have small rubber band tires.
a 14.5 mobile home tire only.
QuickSpecs™ by QuickTrick™ is the perfect solution for unlimited manufacturers vehicle alignment specifications. This web based database provides specifications for all vehicles sold in North America from 1960 - 2012. Simply purchase, receive your coupon code, create your personal login and gain unlimited access.
True, it is about twenty to thirty bucks for an outer tie rod. However, an inner tie rod is a bit more. And, a more tiresome process to change.
Yes. Make sure you get your tires certified by Discount Tire as well.
Did you get the exact same style rims? If the rims are different, they may require different lug nuts. Please follow up on this, I am very curious!
Marc- You sound like you know your vehicle. A couple thoughts come to mind. First I would check that the lug nuts do hold the rim tight-mostly because it is quck as easy,. Second I would check to see if there is a bad tire. Yuo'll need to get it on a balancer to do this, or by jacking the truck up so the wheels are off the ground, and running the truck while in the air. You narrowed down the problem to the rims or tires by changing them once. You need to find the up and down movement in the problem wheel. I am surprized the selling company hasn't worked with you to do this! If you told them that when you change the wheels back and the wobble goes away, don't htey take a little responsibility?
To the person who said MPG goes down with larger tires. That may be, but it has nothing to do with your answer, which said larger tires are heavier, and more to do with how the car is driven and engine power curves. A larger tire size is going to add at best a few ounces to the weight of the tire. In fact, the lead balancing weights might make more of a difference in tire weight. A few ounces on a 3,000 car makes no difference. The power to start a vehicle from a dead start would be affected by tire size, but not due to tire weight. This whole concept is demonstrated by the fact that vehicles need a transmission. (If the car just had one gear, 4th, the engine would not have enough power to start the car from a dead stop. That's why there is a transmission.) A larger tire would make a vehicle a bit harder to get moving. But, the trade off means the vehicle would take less energy to keep it moving with larger tires. Therefore, if a car is used primarily for highway driving, overall MPG may improve with larger tires. For city driving, with lots of starts from dead stops, MPG may get worse with a larger tire. This has a lot to do with transmission design, where vehicle manufacturers gear the cars for a good blend of city/highway fuel economy, also based upon the power sweet spot of the engine (and tire size!). However, for cars used for a lot of highway driving, significantly better MPG may be achieved by gearing the transmission to use lower engine rpm's at highway speeds. (Especially with diesels). But regearing, if even possible, costs a lot of money. Increasing tire size is a cheap way of doing the same thing. A bigger tire will go farther distance during one revolution, meaning you need less engine rpm's to turn it.
As for the original question, tire size is DIRECTLY related to speed and mileage readings on your speedometer/odometer. Your speedometer expects the car to go a certain distance for each revolution of the tire. Imagine: If the tire is HUGE, the car will go very far with one revolution. (Your speedometer readings will change with new tires vs old!) Almost every vehicle in the country is purposely made to READ about 5 mph HIGHER THAN actual speed. I say the manufacturers do this to make the vehicle odometer rack up the miles more quickly, which is "Gotcha Capitalism" at work. But, the manufacturers avoid massive class-action lawsuits by claiming they must do this to make absolutely sure that the car isn't going FASTER than speedometer speed so they don't get sued by people who get a ticket.
From a purely geometric perspective, changing the tire diameter could effect the "Perceived Mileage" - assuming the odometer (and speedometer) tabulates the revolutions (RPMs for the speedometer), the traveled distance would be greater than the measured distance if the tire size was increased. (Just as someone would run slightly further if they ran around a track in lane two versus lane one.) Calculating the MPG would provide an error unless the odometer/speedometer was re-calibrated for the different size of tire.
A friend of mine was once pulled over for exceeding the speed limit shortly after putting larger tires on his vehicle. His speedometer measured his speed right at the speed limit, but his actual speed was higher.
This error does not "change your mileage", rather just gives an erroneous value if you are using your odometer. If you are using known distances in your calculation instead of your odometer, you would avoid this problem.
However, newer/luxury cars may be using GPS or other high-tech detection methods to determine distance and speed, rather than tracking the revolutions of the axle - thus eliminating the error and the need to recalibrate.
From a mechanical perspective, an increase of tire/rim diameter might effect the efficiency of the transfer of energy or torque upon the axle. However, I would speculate that the change would be negligible.
In summary, I would suspect that the change in tire size would have minimal effect on your "actual mileage", but the "measured mileage" could easily vary as a result of calibration issues.
yes rim size does affect the mileage and speed of your vehicle. as you increase the speed your traveling at the difference in the reading on your speedometer and actually traveling at. you can get some devices to recalibrating your speed whether you have a mechanical or electrical sending unit .
larger diameter heavier tires take more energy to spin and will lower your MPG Imagine a tire on spindle and you have to turn it by hand, now imagine a tire twice as heavy, you would have to put a lot more effort into keeping it spinning at the same speed. It can have a significant effect on mileage both by increased weight and the fact that on a larger diameter tire the weight is farther from the center
i have recently put a semi aggressive mud tire on my s-10 blazer and mpg dropped 6 mpg instantly so my answer is yes it does make a difference
Your new tyres are indeed 1.48% smaller (diameter reduced by 0.37ins/10mm)
In regards to the 6mpg drop after installing aggressive mud tires, the mpg dropped primarily from rolling resistance. The aggressive tread has more leading edges and more block type tread. The aggressive tread gains traction by increasing rolling resistance. The opposite of a mud tire, a full race slick, would only have the rolling resistance of the material compound acting on the contact surface, very smooth rolling and yet sticky traction. That being said, a mud tire does not increase traction on dry pavement when compared to a slick. The mud tire decreases traction by having less surface area while still having a higher rolling resistance due to the aggressive tread design. A slick on anything other than dry pavement decreases frictional traction by no longer sticking to a hard solid surface, but a slick surface such as sand or water or mud. All DOT approved tires will have a rib and/or a tread design to evacuate water or debris and are not full slicks.
In regards to inertial power required for larger tires. This is more of a micro scale inquiry and not a macro scale problem toward the tire issue. A larger diameter tire will increase torque required from the engine to accelerate. This increase in torque required for acceleration increases geometrically compared to the torque requirements to maintain a speed which is linear. The tread design is also a factor as a uniform 24lb tire will require less torque than a 24lb tire consisting of a large blocks shifting the weight to the tread surface.
If the goal is to increase mpg, go with a tire that has a higher speed rating which will have a stiffer sidewall. The trade off is expense and possibly comfort. Decrease the revolutions per mile no more than 10%. A tire with a narrower tread width, higher sidewall ratio, smoother tread design, and higher speed rating will increase mpg at the cost of acceleration, foul weather traction, and increased turning skid. If you're running a 205/50/16 and a majority of the driving is interstate roads then try a 205/55/16 tire. If you went with a 215/50/16 or 215/55/16 tire the revolutions per mile decreases and the contact patch increases from 205 to 215 which negates any mpg improvement by dropping engine speed (revolutions per minute) at highway speed. The benefit is increased bump absorption and increased stability at a minimal decrease of mpg depending on tread design because a majority of travel is at high speeds. If a majority of travel is stop and go urban travel or may include extended steep grades, then try a minimal change such as the 205/55/16 from a 205/50/16. The tread width change may also be negated depending on the section width of the wheel rim it is mounted. A five inch width rim will decrease the tread with when compared to a six inch rim even if the exact same tire is used. The best alternative is to get a better grade tire with the original equipment size. Changing tire size will not only affect the speedometer but also the ABS and traction systems if your vehicle has them.
Another approach is to decrease excess weight by reducing wheel rim size. Metal is seven times heavier than rubber. If you have a premium car with big brakes, then mpg generally isn't a priority issue. If you are trying to get the most efficient set up with unlimited expense, then get the smallest diameter lightweight forged wheel that fits around the brake caliper or drum. Then put the corresponding tire around it. The expense of this approach is generally a wash because the cost outweighs the savings even at $4 a gallon.
My suggestion would be to invest more into the vehicle maintenance and spend a little extra on a tire like the Micheline Hydro edge or Continental Extreme Contact DWS, they have excellent all weather capability, low rolling resistance, and may last two to three times longer than economy tires. To compare: mount, balance, and dispose of the the economy tire twice when comparing something with a 40,000 mile tread wear and a 90,000 mile tread wear. Another alternative is the cost of buying a set for summer condition and a set for winter conditions complete with rims. This comparison is not universal as someone in Grand Forks, ND would be better off with a dedicated winter tire or someone in Texas might require an off road tire for some excursions.
Speedometers require maintenance like anything else especially when something like tire size is modified. Speedometers do have a required tolerance for accuracy. I believe it is + or - 2 miles per hour at 75 miles per hour. As speeds increase the tolerance for variance increases. At 30 miles per hour the tolerance would be below a half of a mile per hour. I would have the speedometer inspected if your display is off by 10 miles per hour when compared to a controlled calculation. A speed trap on a closed course would be a controlled environment as other vehicles may affect radar trap readings. Most cars manufactured after 1997 have OBDII computer systems which means the vehicle will have an electronic system reading either transmission speed or axle speed. A mechanic may look at you funny when asking them to check this issue but if you're going to pay them generally they'll look into more than you ever wanted.
I don't know if ABS or traction systems can be adjusted for different tire sizes. I would guess they are capable.
A truck is designed for a specific tire size. That information is on the inside of the door. Changing the rims and/or tires such that the wheel diameter is increased introduces an error in the speedometer and odometer as they are configured for the original equipment. Example:
Stock Tire =255 / 70 R16 (Diameter of 30.1 inches)
New Tire = 265 / 75 R16 (Diameter of 31.6 inches)
-5.31% Error in speedometer and odometer readings
Ergo when the speedometer says 65mph, you are actually traveling at 68mph
If you are calculating 15mpg, you are actually getting 15.8
I believe the question you meant to ask was, "Does increasing the tire diameter improve the mileage by in effect increasing the gear ratios?"
For trucks, overall fuel economy is a function of aerodynamic drag. The best fuel economy for a truck is cruising at about 40mph. If the truck is rated for 20mpg, it should be achieving it at 40mph... However, most people do a lot of highway driving at speeds in excess of 60mph. Going 55mph will cost you 1.5 mpg Bump it up to 60 and you lose another 1.5. Drive at 70mph and now you are only getting 14mpg.
Know the effect on rim/tire sizes on your vehicle's instrumentation, and keep it under 60mph on the highway.
I have a 2001 Ford 150 (4.6 liter V8 with 5 speed manual and 4X4) with the tire scenario listed above. My actual average mileage per tank is 17mpg and I drive at 60mph on the highway.
Not 100% sure, but if they were different style or brand, I'd say they had to be.
It is always a good idea, however if the old tires wore evenly, the car didn't drift or pull with the new tires, then you could pass on the alignment and keep an eye on the way the wear. Rotate every 5-8000 miles.
As a service center manager, I always suggest an alignment with the purchase of new tires for several reasons. 1. When your vehicle is in alignment you are preventing premature tire wear. This translates to $$ saved in the long run by not having to buy tires as frequently. 2. All vehicles' suspensions wear over a period of time, by having your alignment checked periodically you can prevent a worn part from becoming a broken or failed part. This is a simple safety issue in this regard. (The alignment technician should thoroughly check the suspension BEFORE doing an alignment to spot any conditions/parts that should be addressed.) 3. By keeping your car aligned you can increase your gas mileage and tire life. Last but not least, your mechanic/garage should provide you with a printout showing your alignment specs before AND after any adjustments have been made. Ask your salesperson/technician/manager to explain the printout and how it will affect your vehicle. Most shops will offer not to charge you if no adjustments were needed.
ANSWER: NO! although it is recommended, putting new tires on your vehicle doesn't change the alignment, it will still be out of alignment, or in alignment when you put your new tires on.
Your wheels could be out of alignment; however, it is probably your wheels are out of balance. I would have this checked and repaired, if it is not fixed this will cause your tires too wear faster.
Worn Parts like a radius arm bushing , wheel bearings , or even upper or lower ball joints can cause a shaking in your front end.
there, thanks for answering.
Can you get me a copy of the user manual please?
Gretings Ad LBS
If it is out of specification the rear, yes. If it is in specification, no. Makes sense, doesn't it!
Some cars have adjustable alignment angles in the rear, and do indeed call for a four-wheel alignment. On many cars, there are no rear adjustments, but the front wheels should be aligned with respect to the rear, what is properly called a thrust-angle alignment. Unfortunately, many shops are not careful with their terminology and use the term "four-wheel alignment" when they really mean "thrust-angle alignment." Even so, they usually correctly distinguish between cars that have alignable rear ends and those that don't, and price the job accordingly.
As to whether your car has an alignable rear end, you'll need to refer to a shop manual to find out.
Depends on the car, not sure about your mits' - on mine all 4 wheels need to be aligned. If nothing suspenions wise is problematic then expect about 80-150 bucks. if you go to pep boys it is 69.99 for a four whell alignment
You could have a bad balancing job on them or have a broken belt in your tire(s). You feel these problems in your seat for rear tires, and in your steering wheel for you front tires.
Alignment will not cause vibrations. I think uour putting wheels on car that was not designed for them. Contact the wheel manufacturer.
OE wheels are hub centric to your vehicle and often times custom wheels are not installed with a "hub centric ring" The only true wy to center the wheels on your Passat is from the hub not the lug bolts. Go back to the place you bought your wheels and tires and ask them if they installed hub centric rings on your car. They are a must on any FWD vehicle and 90% of the time fix the problem. Last option would be to contact a shop with a road force balancer.
I placed American Racing wheels on my new Toyota Van and ever since have had trouble with the front tires vibrating at about 50mph and above. I have had the wheels balanced about 5 tires and on the fifth time it was better but then 4 months later the vibrating returns. I am convinced that some after market wheels just are not made for certain vehicles.
I have a 2001 PT Cruiser. When the original tires became worn, I opted to take the original steel wheels off and put new aluminum wheels on the car. The first set of custom wheels were 16", low profile tires. I felt like I was literally tearing the road up with my steering wheel. I could feel vibration in my steering wheel at all speeds, but when I hit about 68 mph on the freeway, things got really rough. I thought maybe a tire out of balance, but when cruising at any speed between 68 and 75, it would be smooth, then my steering would go wild, then smooth, to infinity. The vibrations in my steering wheel would last maybe 5 to 6 seconds at a time, then smooth out. I thought it was just the low profile tires, so got another set of custom wheels and new tires in 15" but, I could still feel some of the vibration I felt with the previous custom wheels and new tires. My husband said I was just too darn picky and I thought maybe he was right. Until... I had the new 15" wheels & tires rotated. The vibration came back with a vengeance! The tire dealer checked for tires out of balance and checked to see if the front-end was out of whack. Nothing wrong. I asked, could it be the wheels? No, they said, because they put these wheels on other PT Cruisers and no one ever complained. After another week of grinding the road up, I took my old, original wheels and tires out of the shed and put them back on my car. What a difference! Smooth as glass. I am taking the car in next week to have them take the new tires off the custom wheels and put them on the old rims.
I had some 185/65/15's 88 spokes (which are for sale :-P) and the same thing has happened to me. I noticed if you get some build up of dirt on the inside of the rim it will cause for a rough ride. Clean the rims not just on the outside but on the inside and take her for a ride.
Does your steering shimmy side to side if so you need a toe adjustment. And go back to the dealer and see if they have the eccentric ring for your rims.
I also had after market wheels on my Toyota Sienna Van and then put new tires on them. The first thing I was told is that after market wheels do not always center on the hubs. The second problem is that not all new tires are perfectly round. The problem was solved by having the tires mounted on the after market wheels and then the tire shop put them onto a tire trueing machine that cuts the tread or maybe a better way of putting is that the tire and wheel are trued to a perfect concentric cirlce are that way matched. All vibration went away. It was like riding on glass!
It depends on what kind of vehical and tires you have. If you have directional tires they need to be rotated front to back on the same side of the car. 4x4 recomends to cross rotate like the letter x lr to rf/rr to lf etc. It is also important to keep your tires balanced/recomend getting that done on a high speed spin ballancer. That will keep it both in Static and Dynamic(side to side&up and down)balance. Prices differ between places, at sams club it will cost you aprox. $15. Failure to rotate the tires will result in the tires cupping, causing undesirable ride, leading to premature suspension wear.
Keep the shoes on your car happy
Also keep in mind if you have a high performance car the rear or front tires may be wider than the others in which case no rotation is needed.
I find that diagrams are often one of the best ways to show the various trie rotation patterns. There is some great info in the link below
yes with a 45 series tire but you also have to reprogram your speedometer
You need to go to a brake specialist. It sounds like a pinched brake line. For the tire spinning ... what are the road conditions? Maybe your other axle isn't turning, or is broken somewhere. Or out of the tranny. you may need a new bearing. if that is so you could be driving and the tire could come right off. go to an auto shop and get it looked at. Also, consider having your foot checked for excessive weight.
Possible air bag system malfunctioning. Take the car back to where the work was done, and have them look at it.
The alignment service was just a coincidence. This is a known problem and Honda issued a TSB on this.
Simply take your car to your local Honda dealer and tell them about the SRS light and remind them that there is a TSB on the issue. Your dealer should replace the OPDS sensor at no charge, regardless of age or mileage, as a goodwill gesture.
I had this done recently and it is has worked beautifully.
The waffle pattern is called "undulation" More noticable in Goodyear and Uniroyal tires. Tire people call it a building splice. Michelin has a different building process- so it is not that noticable on their tires.
The person that answered your question first is refering to a dimple on the sidewall of many tires, and he is correct about the cause, and there is nothing wron with the tire. But if your refering to "dimples or waffeling" in the tread area its not normal and probabally caused by bad or worn suspension parts (SHOCKS MAYBE) or depending on the tire on some very light vehicles it can be caused by not rotating the tires and the problem will appear in the rear. either way once it gets worn in its hard to get rid of and will often cause lots of tire noise. Sometimes cross rotating the tires will help/ but if the tires are to far gone all you are going to do is prematurly wear out the suspension parts of the vehical.
this may also be a shifted belt in your tire this just happens sometimes if you have a shifted belt you should replace tire it will prematurely wear and eventually result in a blow out. a shifted belt will give the tire a buldge.
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