2001-2005 Ford Taurus Car Radio Stereo Wiring Diagram

• Car Radio Battery Constant 12v+ Wire: Green/Black
  Car Radio Accessory Switched 12v+ Wire: Black/Pink
  Car Radio Ground Wire: Black/Green
  Car Radio Illumination Wire: N/A
  Car Stereo Dimmer Wire: N/A
  Car Stereo Antenna Trigger: N/A
  Car Stereo Amp Trigger Wire: N/A
  Car Stereo Amplifier Location: N/A
  
  Car Audio Front Speakers Size: 6x8
  Car Audio Front Speakers Location: Doors
  Left Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Orange/Green
  Left Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Blue/White
  Right Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Tan/Green
  Right Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Green/Orange
  
  Car Audio Rear Speakers Size: 6x8
  Car Audio Rear Speakers Location: Deck
  Left Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Gray/Blue
  Left Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Brown/Yellow
  Right Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Black/Violet
  Right Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Orange/Violet

1997-2000 Ford Taurus Car Stereo Radio Wiring Diagram

• Radio Constant 12V+ Wire: Green/Yellow
  Radio Switched 12V+ Wire: Yellow/Black
  Radio Ground Wire: Black/Light Green
  Radio Illumination Wire: Light Blue/Red
  Radio Power Antenna Trigger Wire: Orange/Light Blue
  
  Front Speakers Size: 5″ x 7″
  Front Speakers Location: Doors
  Left Front Speaker Wire (+): Orange/Light Green
  Left Front Speaker Wire (-): Light Blue/White
  Right Front Speaker Wire (+): White/Light Green
  Right Front Speaker Wire (-): Dark Green/Orange
  
  Rear Speakers Size: 5" x 7"
  Rear Speakers Location: Deck
  Left Rear Speaker Wire (+): Gray/Light Blue
  Left Rear Speaker Wire (-): Tan/Yellow
  Right Rear Speaker Wire (+): Orange/Red
  Right Rear Speaker Wire (-): Brown/Pink

1992-1996 Ford Taurus Car Stereo Radio Wiring Diagram

• Car Radio Battery Constant 12v+ Wire: Light Green/Yellow
  Car Radio Accessory Switched 12v+ Wire: Yellow/Black
  Car Radio Ground Wire: Black or Black/Light Green
  Car Radio Illumination Wire: Light Blue/Red
  Car Stereo Antenna Trigger Wire: Orange/Light Blue
  
  Car Audio Front Speakers Size: 6x8"
  Car Audio Front Speakers Location: Doors
  Left Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Orange/Light Green
  Left Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Light Blue/White
  Right Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): White/Light Green
  Right Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Dark Green/Orange
  
  Car Audio Rear Speakers Size: 6" x 8"
  Car Audio Rear Speakers Location: Rear Deck
  Left Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Pink/Light Green
  Left Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Dark Blue/Orange
  Right Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Pink/Light Blue
  Right Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Tan/White

1986-1991 Ford Taurus Car Stereo Radio Wiring Diagram

• Car Radio Battery Constant 12v+ Wire: Green/Yellow
  Car Radio Accessory Switched 12v+ Wire: Yellow/Black
  Car Radio Ground Wire: Red or Black
  * 1990-1991 Ground Wire: Black/Light Green
  Car Radio Illumination Wire: Blue/Red
  Car Stereo Antenna Trigger Wire: Orange/Blue
  
  Car Audio Front Speakers Size: 3 ½"
  *1990-1991 Front Speaker Size: 5 1/4"
  Car Audio Front Speakers Location: Dash
  Left Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Orange/Green
  Left Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Blue/White
  Right Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): White/Green
  Right Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Green/Red
  
  Car Audio Rear Speakers Size: 9" x 9"
  Car Audio Rear Speakers Location: Rear Deck
  Left Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Pink/Green
  Left Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Blue/Orange
  Right Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Pink/Blue
  Right Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Brown/Red
  

See "Related Links"

If you are installing a new radio, do yourself a huge favor and don't cut those wires!

Purchase a radio wiring harness, which will include the information about what wires are for what, and vastly simplify the entire process!

See "Related Questions" below for more

Haynes has a generic stereo wiring diagram in the back of their books but as for the actual wiring of the stereo itself, I don't know.

or go to www.modifiedlife.com it has alot of different wiring diagrams

This may help a little if you haven't had an answer yet. I had to rewire my aftermarket stereo to work with the '98 Taurus which uses basically the same system as a '96 model. Although some of my color coding isn't the OEM standard so it won't help you here. You need to buy a new speaker harness if you are changing out the stereo because first off, the tuner is in the back of the car on the driver side trunk. The radio is actually just a receiver in this model of vehicle between the years of 1996-1999. There is no antenna line running to the front. But, if you need to know the wire colors start writing them down; you can find the speaker wires on the left plug that is going into the tuner (in the trunk).

This may help: http://www.modifiedlife.com/1997-ford-taurus-car-radio-stereo-wiring-diagram/

I couldn't find one for the 1996, but like I said, it should be about the same if not exact.

If you need more help, talk to a specialist at a local car audio shop.

Steven S

Tech.Steven ...
@Gmail.com

http://www.installdr.com/Harnesses/Ford-Wiring.pdf

or

http://www.installdr.com/InstallDocs/FLM/PDF/356011.pdf

speakers are as follows:

Front Left: Orange/Lt Green (+) Blue/White (-)

Front Right: White/Green (+) Green/Orange (-)

Rear Left: Grey/Blue (+) Tan/Yellow (-)

Rear Right: Orange/Red (+) Brown/pink (-)

Constant 12v+ Green/Yellow

Switched 12v+ Yellow/Black

Ground Black/Green

The "Brain" for this radio is in the rear left quarter panel.. they piece in the dash is just a display and cassette player..

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> lilrock@live.com

6x8

The front speakers located in the front doors I believe are 6 inch speakers. The rear speakers are 6 inch X 9 inch speakers.

1992-93 Mercury Sable Stereo Wiring:

Front Speakers 6 1/2" Doors (2x) Rear Speakers 5" x 7" Rear Deck (2x)

Constant 12V+ Green/Yellow Switched 12V+ Yellow/Black Ground Black/Light Green Illumination Light Blue/Red Dimmer n/a Antenna Trigger Orange/Blue Antenna Right Front Left Front (+) Orange/Light Green Left Front (-) Light Blue/White Right Front (+) White/Light Green Right Front (-) Dark Green/Orange Left Rear (+) Pink/Light Green Left Rear (-) Dark Blue/Orange Right Rear (+) Pink/Light Blue Right Rear (-) Tan/White

Most of the speakers are 5X7 (6X8 is considered the same). For the exact answer you can go to Crutchfield.com and use there site to figure it out, you just type in the make and model and they will tell you exactly what size each speaker is.

Crutchfield.com is an audio and video retailer specializing in cars. They have powerful tools for determining what fits each and every vehicle, including speakers.

On the homepage, point at the "Car Audio and Video" menu and select "Outfit My Car". Follow those prompts and you'll know the specifications for each component in your Sable.

Btw, I'm a very satisfied customer of theirs. Awesome customer service and very competitive pricing.

1992 Radio wiring diagram
http://taurus-club.ru/manuals/Ford_Taurus_1992_wiring.pdf




Just a small correction and amplification on the speaker sizes in a '94 Taurus. The rears are 6 x 8 and the fronts are 6 1/2. This is from my Chiltons and Crutchfield. Steve H.

Go to www.the12volt.com they will have your diagram for free...
1995 Ford Taurus Car Stereo Wiring Diagram Car Radio Battery Constant 12v+ Wire: Light Green/Yellow

Car Radio Accessory Switched 12v+ Wire: Yellow/Black

Car Radio Ground Wire: Black

Car Radio Illumination Wire: Light Blue/Red

Car Stereo Dimmer Wire: N/A

Car Stereo Antenna Trigger Wire: Orange/Light Blue

Car Stereo Amp Trigger Wire: N/A

Car Stereo Amplifier Location: N/A

Car Audio Front Speakers Size: N/A

Car Audio Front Speakers Location: N/A

Left Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Orange/Light Green

Left Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Light Blue/White

Right Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): White/Light Green

Right Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Dark Green/Orange

Car Audio Rear Speakers Size: N/A

Car Audio Rear Speakers Location: N/A

Left Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Pink/Light Green

Left Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Dark Blue/Orange

Right Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Pink/Light Blue

Right Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Tan/White


www.the12volt.com look for diagrams
I can't quite remember the exact colours of the wires, But I can tell you that the actual stereo is located in the trunk of the car, above the left wheel well. That is where you'll find your speeker wires if that is what you're looking for. After you locate them, I'm sure you can figure out wich is wich

ABS, anti-lock brake systems are actually pretty basic:

• Control module
• Wheel sensor / 'exciter' ring (toothed gear integrated into end of axle shaft)

• Examine each wheel for physical problems
• **
  • Mud & debris on the ring that could interfere with the sensor
  • Wiring - broken, frayed, corroded
  • Wiring connector - disconnected, corroded
• Trouble codes
• **
  • requires specialized scan tool (about $200)
  • As with engine codes, will provide more detailed information for diagnostics - such as a recurring code to a specific wheel as in my case.
  • Appears that most places charge to have codes read - I paid $45 at my favorite tire shop. Dealers, brakes shops, tire shops, some auto parts offer ABS scan / code retrieval

• Wheel sensor
• • Sensor mounts into the back side of the steering knuckle with one small bolt. Can be stuck in the casting and take some effort to remove in one piece (in case you're trying to salvage it). Be patient and have good penetrating oil on hand.
  • Trace wiring - the front connectors are typically up behind the plastic wheel well liner for protection from the road elements - lots of sheet metal screws & more penetrating oil
  • Individual sensors range in price from about $45 and up
• Control module
• **
  • Not repairable and expensive (that's about all I know)

• Bleeding the system
• • ABS systems are particularly sensitive to air in the lines - the control module gets upset by the presence of anything but fluid.
  • According to Chiltons procedure write-up, the ABS scanner needs to be used during bleeding process
  • The bleeding sequence goes Rt Ft, Lf Ft, Lf R, Rt R
  • sounds like it is a complete flushing of fluid - have a few jugs of fluid on hand

See "Related Questions" below for more ABS information

The technique for driving a vehicle fitted a non-sychromesh is to match the engine speed to the transmission speed by raising or lowering the engine speed.

The technique to change up is this:

1. Depress clutch (not all the way to the floor, just enough to disengage)
2. Move gearstick into neutral position
3. Release clutch
4. Depress the clutch once the engine has slowed the appropriate amount
5. Move the gearstick into the higher gear.

The number of revolutions per minute to reduce depends on the normal gap between the gears (usually 600 to 800 rpm), whether the vehicle is speeding up or slowing down

The technique to downshift is

1. Depress cluch
2. Move gearstick into neutral position
3. Release clutch
4. Increase the engine speed by the appropriate amount
5. Depress clutch
6. Move gearstick into the lower gear

Again, the amount to increase depends on the transmission and vehicle acceleration.

There is no real substitute for practice.

If the speeds are not matched, the gears cannot engage, no matter how hard the gearstick is pushed.

If the gear does not engage, then the engine speed needs to be adjusted. Generally a high pitched grind indicates the engine is too fast, and a lower pitched grind indicates the engine is too slow.

If the gear cannot be engaged, the vehicle needs to be stopped as it is very dangerous to let a vehicle coast in neutral while the driver is hunting for a gear.

2: Turn the key to the run position (the position before start).

3: Using a small diameter object (paper clip) slide the wire into the hole located underneath the ignition switch on the underside of the column. While pushing up on the pin in the hole, turn the key and pull outward. The tumbler should release and come out.

4: To replace, turn the key in the new cylinder to run.

6: Place the cylinder in the column where the old one came out.

7: Turn the key to the off position and the cylinder is now locked in place.

Roll the window down and disconect the negative battery post:

1. Remove the inside door panel by first removing the screws under the door handle, and at the base of the panel.

2. Next pop off the cover around the handle.

3. Next pry the door panel off with a pry tool starting at the bottom of the door and working your way up.

4. Once the panel is loose, lift it straight up to release it from the top catches of the window "sill". Don't force section by the mirror push down to release tab.

5. Remove the speaker and disconnect the wire plug connecting it.

6. Locate and disconnect the plug for the power mirror behind the speaker cavity.

7. There are three bolts behind the mirror assembly. One is located through a rectangular opening (also used as an upper retainer catch for the door panel). The other two are behind a sticky insulation pad below the rectangular hole. Once the bolts are removed, the mirror assembly can be pulled out.

8. When reattaching the wire fitting for electric mirror be sure you attach or tape the wire away from the window and test that it does not impede the window up and down movement.

9. Reattach panel in reverse order that you removed it.

Check the link on the right for a detailed descrition with photo's

The Ford branded pump lists for over $300 - aftermarket brands run ~ $125-200 here (jan 2009). The labor in the book is 2 hours.

Prices range from $100 - $140 - $200 - $232 (Motorcraft brand!).

It is in the fuel tank. You will have to jack up the rear as high as you can , and secure on jack stands. You will need some help, and hopefully the tank is nearly empty, otherwise you are in for a battle.

The tank is held is with two long straps. Also there is a filler neck and vent hose at the rear of the tank that will have to be disconnected. The tank will have to be lowered and removed. I recommend some help and a good floor jack, with a piece of plywood between the jack and the tank.

Lower the tank slowly while disconnecting fuel lines and wires as they become visible.

Once the tank is removed, you can remove the fuel pump lock ring on top of the tank. It screws off counterclockwise, but it is stubborn. I use a hammer and a big flat screwdriver to get it loose. From there it is self-explanatory. Replace the pump, and reassemble.

See "Related Links" for Autozone's free, online Chilton's Service Manual illustrated procedures for removing the gas tank. This should be an excellent guide even for the later models.

There is also a link to the same repair guide with information on the fuel pump itself. Again, the information should be very applicable to the different model years (a pump is a pump is a pump?)

NOTE: Autozone now requires free registration to access the repair guides. More than worth the extra effort for these photo/illustrated instructions.

Drain the fuel out of the tank, and then drop the tank. Fuel pump is located inside of fuel tank.

See "Related Questions" below for a write-up on the same procedures for a 2000+ Taurus - much of it applies well to the Windstar

It is in the gas tank. Fuel tank must be removed to replace it.

just connect all hoses on fuel tank, drain fuel if there a lot fuel in tank, lower fuel tank by removing the 2 bolts on fuel tank straps you will need special fuel line remover tool to remove fuel lines from fuel pump and just connect wire connector on fuel pump clean off all dirt by fuel pump remove lock ring pull fuel pump out

The fuel pump is located in the fuel tank. To access it you must drop the tank.

not necessarily most people do but i have cut a hole through the truck or floor if you want to just be very careful if you cut it in the right spot it only has to be a few inches bigger than the pump

On most fuel injected vehicles (maybe all) there are two fuel pumps. The low pressure / high volume pump is in the tank. The high pressure pump that serves the injector manifold is usually mounted on the frame in the engine compartment. The pump you hear at start-up is the one in the tank. Carl

See "Related Questions" below for more

Remove the two bolts on either side of the brake hose with the rubber boots. Do not remove the four bolts where the axle ties in. The two bolts to be removed require a 10mm socket/wrench. Loosen the pads from the caliper

To remove:

• Remove the rear disc brake rotor.

• Remove the outboard return spring.

• Remove the adjusting screw spring.

• Remove the rear brake shoe hold-down spring and pin.

• Remove the brake shoe adjusting screw and nut.

• Remove the front brake shoe hold-down spring and pin.

• Remove both parking brake shoes and the inboard return spring.

• Check the parking brake lever for excessive wear and replace as necessary.

To install:

• Position the front parking brake shoe to the backing plate and install the hold-down pin and spring.

• Install the rear parking brake shoe with the inboard return spring.

• Position the brake shoe adjuster screw and nut on the shoes and install the rear shoe hold-down pin and spring.

• Install the brake shoe adjuster spring.

• Install the outboard return spring.

• Adjust the parking brake shoes and install the rotor, caliper and wheel.

• Lower the vehicle and tighten the wheel lug nuts to 100 ft. lbs. (135 Nm).

ADJUSTMENT

• Measure the inside of the drum portion of the rear brake rotor

• Remove the rear disc brake rotor.

• Using Brake Adjustment Gauge D81L-1103-A or equivalent, measure the inside diameter of the drum portion of the rear disc brake rotor.

• Subtract 0.020 in. (0.508mm) from the first measurement, adjust the brake shoes to that size

• Adjust the parking brake adjuster screw until the outside diameter of the parking brake shoes measures 0.020 in. (0.508mm) less than the drum measurement.

• Install the rear disc brake rotor.

Re-adjust the emergency brake by turning the opposite direction from loosening.

Refill the brake master cylinder

Thats a very difficult task so I would advise you to let a certified technician do the job because it is kind of complicated and can cause damage if not fitted correctly.