According to the 2000 Ford Explorer Owner Guide :

( Motorcraft MERCON automatic transmission fluid is used as the power

steering fluid )

This fixed it on my Ford. Part cost about $50 at the ford dealer. The oxygen sensor is located below the engine in the exhaust pipe before the catalytic converter and muffler. It is mounted in the pipe with wires going to it. You need a special socket to remove it in most cases but sometimes you can do it with a wrench. When replacing it be sure to put anti seize lubricant on the threads so it can be serviced again in the future. It came with the anti seize lube. Just make sure the anti-seize your using will not damage the O2 sensor your installing if your not using what was provided . Your best to find out if this is the reason the light is on, as it may be just a loose gas cap. Before you do anything, go to Autozone and use their loan a tool program to chech out an OBD-II code reader. Follow the instructions on the box, or if you don't feel comfortable doing it yourself (it's really easy), have one of the store employees do it for you. My check engine light came on this past winter, and it turned out that one side of the engine was too lean. I remember the light came on when I started the explorer on a particularly cold day. Anyway, once you reset it, it probably won't come back on unless there is something wrong with some component. Go to Auozone and have the code downloaded, then come back to this site and ask how to fix that code. Oxygen sensors usually go first, but you can get a light even from having a loose gas cap.

Not sure about a 2005 explorer but I know how to remove the radio in a 2005 F350. 1. at the seam on top where the dash face meets the top of the dash, grab at the seam and pul down and toward you till it pop loose. 2. The bottom. The bottom will pop loos the same way, it is just a bit tighter. Start on the right side (nearest the driver door) Be careful not to pull it out to far, you do not want to pull and wire loose. Once you have it poped loose; 3. starting on the right side start disconnecting the wire connections working your way to the drivers door, Note each connector is different, tool that will help needle nose and regular plyers, a small straight screwdriver. 4. once all wire connectors are off the dash face cover can be removed life it up and off, it is a tight fit and feels like it does not want to be remove. Make sure all wires are disconnected and you will be alright. 5. The Radio. Four screws I found its easyer to just remove them and the radio will slid forward. Once yo have it pulled out it is easy to disconnect the antena and electric connector and its out. 6. Putting the dash face plate back on. Put the bottom of the dash cover in place first, don't snap it in place just get it where it belongs. 7. Reconnect the electrical connections. starting for the right working to the left. 8. Snap the top of the dash face back into place all along the top. 9. Start on the left side near the drivers door. Looking at eye level so you can see what you need to do, pull down on the face and move it into place then snap it in place moving to the right. Notes: If is much easyer to remove the dash cover and the four radio retaining screws. It will take less time to remove them then it will to fight with them tring to wiggle the radio loose and out. It seems harder then it is, and looks like it will be a more involved then it really is. Just be patiant and with a little care you can do it. Putting it back together is easy, just revers the order, and double check all your electrical connectors - make sure they are all connected and locked in place before popping the dash cover back in place. Not sure about a 2005 explorer but I know how to remove the radio in a 2005 F350. 1. at the seam on top where the dash face meets the top of the dash, grab at the seam and pul down and toward you till it pop loose. 2. The bottom. The bottom will pop loos the same way, it is just a bit tighter. Start on the right side (nearest the driver door) Be careful not to pull it out to far, you do not want to pull and wire loose. Once you have it poped loose; 3. starting on the right side start disconnecting the wire connections working your way to the drivers door, Note each connector is different, tool that will help needle nose and regular plyers, a small straight screwdriver. 4. once all wire connectors are off the dash face cover can be removed life it up and off, it is a tight fit and feels like it does not want to be remove. Make sure all wires are disconnected and you will be alright. 5. The Radio. Four screws I found its easyer to just remove them and the radio will slid forward. Once yo have it pulled out it is easy to disconnect the antena and electric connector and its out. 6. Putting the dash face plate back on. Put the bottom of the dash cover in place first, don't snap it in place just get it where it belongs. 7. Reconnect the electrical connections. starting for the right working to the left. 8. Snap the top of the dash face back into place all along the top. 9. Start on the left side near the drivers door. Looking at eye level so you can see what you need to do, pull down on the face and move it into place then snap it in place moving to the right. Notes: If is much easyer to remove the dash cover and the four radio retaining screws. It will take less time to remove them then it will to fight with them tring to wiggle the radio loose and out. It seems harder then it is, and looks like it will be a more involved then it really is. Just be patiant and with a little care you can do it. Putting it back together is easy, just revers the order, and double check all your electrical connectors - make sure they are all connected and locked in place before popping the dash cover back in place. Not sure about a 2005 explorer but I know how to remove the radio in a 2005 F350. 1. at the seam on top where the dash face meets the top of the dash, grab at the seam and pul down and toward you till it pop loose. 2. The bottom. The bottom will pop loos the same way, it is just a bit tighter. Start on the right side (nearest the driver door) Be careful not to pull it out to far, you do not want to pull and wire loose. Once you have it poped loose; 3. starting on the right side start disconnecting the wire connections working your way to the drivers door, Note each connector is different, tool that will help needle nose and regular plyers, a small straight screwdriver. 4. once all wire connectors are off the dash face cover can be removed life it up and off, it is a tight fit and feels like it does not want to be remove. Make sure all wires are disconnected and you will be alright. 5. The Radio. Four screws I found its easyer to just remove them and the radio will slid forward. Once yo have it pulled out it is easy to disconnect the antena and electric connector and its out. 6. Putting the dash face plate back on. Put the bottom of the dash cover in place first, don't snap it in place just get it where it belongs. 7. Reconnect the electrical connections. starting for the right working to the left. 8. Snap the top of the dash face back into place all along the top. 9. Start on the left side near the drivers door. Looking at eye level so you can see what you need to do, pull down on the face and move it into place then snap it in place moving to the right. Notes: If is much easyer to remove the dash cover and the four radio retaining screws. It will take less time to remove them then it will to fight with them tring to wiggle the radio loose and out. It seems harder then it is, and looks like it will be a more involved then it really is. Just be patiant and with a little care you can do it. Putting it back together is easy, just revers the order, and double check all your electrical connectors - make sure they are all connected and locked in place before popping the dash cover back in place.

the fog lights come apart in 2 sections.#1 remove the lens cover by pushing the clips(1 on each side of the lens)away from the lens cover.#2 after the lens cover is removed,you sould see a wiring harness with a plug.disconnect the plug.

This is usually done by a repair shop using an alignment rack costing several thousand dollars...this is not something that you can eyeball?? there are two sets of bolts located on the tie rod that has to be removed...then the tierod has to be turned to be aligned to the spec sheet. Take it to a shop and get a four wheel alignment.Maybe about $60.00, or several hundred for new tires.

You will need to go to a car audio store and buy a connector to tie into your car's wiring harness, and, the question you ask is too involved for a proper answer. You may want to go to a car parts store, or book store, and get a repair manual for your car. They cost about $16.00 Or, go to a Public Library.

Hey Duane==I think I use a wrench on the bolt that holds the pulley to the bracket for the idler. I think it is 13mm. Goodluck, Joe

AIR BAG DIAGNOSTIC MONITOR DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODE Code Component/Fault Description No Air Bag Indicator - Inoperative Indicator Circuit Continuous Air Bag Indicator - Diagnostic Trouble Code Timed Out, Diagnostic Monitor Disconnected or Inoperative, or No Ignition Voltage to Diagnostic Monitor. 12 Lost Battery Feed 13 Air Bag Circuit Shorted to Ground 14 Primary Crash Sensor Circuit Shorted to Ground 21 Diagnostic Monitor Not Mounted to Vehicle Properly 22 Safing Sensor Output Circuit Shorted to Battery Voltage 23 Memory Clear Circuit Improperly Grounded 24 System Disarm Failure or Internal Diagnostic Monitor Fault 32 Driver Side Air Bag Circuit High Resistance or Open (See the Prolog) 33 Passenger Side Air Bag Circuit High Resistance or Open 34 Driver Side Air Bag Circuit Low Resistance or Shorted 35 Passenger Side Air Bag Circuit Low Resistance or Shorted 41 RH Radiator Primary Crash Sensor Feed/Return Circuit Open 42 LH Radiator Primary Crash Sensor Feed/Return Circuit Open 44 RH Radiator Primary Crash Sensor Not Mounted to Vehicle Properly 45 LH Radiator Primary Crash Sensor Not Mounted to Vehicle Properly 52 Intermittent or Repaired Lost Battery Feed 53 Intermittent or Repaired Air Bag Circuit Shorted to Ground 54 Intermittent or Repaired Primary Crash Sensor Circuit Shorted to Ground 61 Intermittent or Repaired Diagnostic Monitor Not Mounted to Vehicle Properly 62 Intermittent or Repaired Safing Sensor Output Circuit Shorted to Battery Voltage 63 Intermittent or Repaired Memory Clear Circuit Improperly Grounded 64 Intermittent or Repaired System Disarm Failure or Internal Diagnostic Monitor Fault 72 Intermittent or Repaired Driver Side Air Bag Circuit High Resistance or Open 73 Intermittent or Repaired Passenger Side Air Bag Circuit High Resistance or Open 74 Intermittent or Repaired Driver Side Air Bag Circuit Low Resistance or Shorted 75 Intermittent or Repaired Passenger Side Air Bag Circuit Low Resistance or Shorted 81 Intermittent or Repaired RH Radiator Primary Crash Sensor Feed/Return Circuit Open 82 Intermittent or Repaired LH Radiator Primary Crash Sensor Feed/Return Circuit Open 84 Intermittent or Repaired RH Radiator Primary Crash Sensor Not Mounted to Vehicle 85 Intermittent or Repaired LH Radiator Primary Crash Sensor Not Mounted to Vehicle Rapid Continuous Flashing of Air Bag Indicator (No Diagnostic Trouble Code) Both Primary Crash Sensors Disconnected Assembly Plant Mode

== == The GEM is located behind the radio. You can take out the radio with a pair of special tools that fit into the four small holes you will find on the face of the radio unit. Or, if you take out the two screws at the bottom of the whole dash facia (the black framing around the radio, A/C controls and two top A/C vents, you can carefully remove the entire unit. Behind this facia are the connections to various electronic controls (depending on the options your Explorer has). Behind this radio and facia, look behind and to the left (driver's side) and you will see a small black box (cigarette size) with wires connecting to it. It can be removed by simply sliding the unit up and off its bracket. No screws are holding the GEM to the inside dash. Be sure you have disconnected the battery before attempting any repair or removal for your safety. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ On Demand lists the location as center of the dash, against the firewall. What is needed to access the GEM, I am still working on. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ ANSWER The Generic Electronic Module can be accessed by removing the radio (Helpfull)

If you look on eBay you will find people selling information on how to find the master unlock code for these keypads. They say in their ads that the dealer will charge you big bucks to get the master code. Don't buy it! I cannot guarantee that this will help everyone, but almost every car produced by Ford/Mercury with these keypads comes with a sticker on the trunk hinge with the code printed on it. Just use this code, or if you like, follow the instructions in your owners manual to change the code to one you can more easily remember. Of course if your sticker fell off, then you need the dealer. If you have a pickup truck or something without a trunk, I'm sure the dealer will be happy to tell you where the sticker is on your vehicle. Now don't you think the guys selling this info on eBay should get a real job?

Your 2001 Ford Explorer uses a key that has chip in it called a transponder (as you know). This chip has a mathematical formula that is used to answer a numeric question that your car generates. If the answer is correct the car's computer allows you to start the car. (A Simple Example: what is 5 multiplied by X?) The transponder and car both know that X = 2 so the chip responds with the answer 20, and the car, knowing the answer is correct, starts. This all happens in about a tenth of a second. There is also about a billion possible answers to the cars question, so if you use the wrong key, it will give the wrong answer, and the car will not start. So, to answer your question: If the key turns in the door and the ignition that it is working mechanically, but the transponder part is broken. If the key does not turn in the lock, the mechanical part of the key (the cuts on the key or the wafers in the lock) are not working properly. Either way, a Locksmith in your area should be able to help you out.

Disconnect the battery Remove the plastic column cover. between the ignition and the steering wheel towards the bottom you will see a pin hole. inside that pin hole you will see a little silver pin.you will need a metal pick that fits into the hole. insert the key and turn like you are going to start it.insert the pick,push the pin and pull the key out. the whole lock cylinder will come with the key. just pull straight out to the right --do not turn it should already be on the furthest forward position.

Please supply engine type/size and whether auto/manual trans. If you are talking about the manual transmission model, the switch is located on the bracket holding the clutch pedal.Since it is activated by depressing the pedal it is situated at the base of the pedal where it pivots and can be adjusted by loosening a screw in the back to make it more or less sensitive.But remember, this is a safety feature so think twice before making any changes. For the automatic model, the switch is located on the transmission case itself where the gear shifter is connected.Jack up the vehicle safely, ask a friend to move the gear shifter up and down thru park,drive, etc. and look at the side of the transmission housing: the switch is located in a plastic case where the manual gear lever causes the transmission to shift.There may be two or more wires hooked up to it.

There is no replaceable bulb in the illuminated switches on a steering wheel. There is no room inside the button for a bulb, and such a bulb would create so much heat, that it would melt the assembly The illumination LED is integrated into the switch circuitry. The only way to fix it is to relace the switch assembly.

For safety reasons remove the positive cable from the 1998 Ford Aerostar battery. Remove the cables from the front of the starter. Remove the starter retaining bolts. Reverse the process to install the new starter.

a hub is what the wheel bolts to on the car.the hub bearings are the bearings that allow the hub to turn on the axle. most times they are called axle bearings,

I have the same issue. This appears to be quite common. This is apparently caused by overheating. There are a few places online that discuss how to fix the problem. As well, there are also repair places.

It's on the passenger side of the vehicle, behind the battery, on the side wall. It's real easy to get to and change.

Should be the first component that looks like a small muffler after the exhaust manifold

Just above the oil filter-in the engine block-They make a socket to remove them-get them at the auto parts store.

well if it is the Bose speakers which have an amplifier and it probably is than you need to buy not only the wiring harness but a 40$ cord from circuitcity they know what one and get the 17ft long one plug that into your radio and run the cord back to the amplifier which i still have not had time to look for i just found this out today because i am installing a aftermarket radio myself

You'll need a pair of tools to remove this radio, available @ your local car parts store. They're u-shaped and about 3-4 inches long. There inserted in the two holes on either side of the radio. Either pull them together or spred them slightly while pulling the radio towards you. This will release the spring clips on the sides of the radio.