1. Thoroughly spray the door switches (on each door) with:
2. Open and close each door several times to work the lube into the mechanism
This is usually sufficient to clean the electrical & plunger mechanism inside the door switch.
If this doesn't work, you could remove the door panel and do the spray treatment from the inside also.
If this doesn't work, the switch may have to come out for repair (see below), or replacement.Curling Plastic SurgeryOn my '98 Windstar, the door latch hooks (the part on the door not on the door frame) were coated in plastic. As they got older, the plastic wore through and then started to curl. The curls caused the hook to stick just enough to set off the door chimes and lights.
Lubing the latches sometimes helps, but when the curls are big enough you can use a whole can of WD-40 and it isn't going to help.
Get out some needle nose pliers and a sharp utility knife. Cut and peel away the curls. You might need a magnifying glass to see them.
This has worked on both doors (driver's side usually goes first). My In-Law Taurus Station Wagon had the exact same thing happen. Looks like Ford used the same bad latch hook design.Long-term FixMany people say that if you spray the latches with WD40 or PB blaster it will *fix* it. Well it is more like a band aid not a repair. It WILL happen again.
Now I will explain the way to fix these sending units. I will be using the rear lift gate as my example.
Now if you want to never have the door bother you again... throw these in the trash and put everything back together and you're done.
HOWEVER if you want to do it right.. take the sending unit and either replace it with a new one for each latch or use some quality carb or parts cleaner to clean the heck out of them.
You will see a small metal sliding switch, when this switch gets stuck IN it causes the door chime and lights to stay on. So clean it will it moves easily on its own. A few drops or lubricant will help AFTER it is cleaned.
After you have them moving freely just put everything back together. I myself also use carb or parts cleaner on the complete latch as well till its totally clean of all old grease then I spray on some new white lithium grease before putting everything back together.
Spraying the latch with WD40 will sometimes work, however in the long run it will only last a while. The issue is the sending units are sludged up and the more wd40 and such you spray on the more dust and stuff it will collect... making it sludgy and sticky again.AnswerInstead of WD40 or other alike product that will cause more dirt to be attracted and make the switch more sticky and harder to move, I suggest to use an ELECTRICAL DRY CONTACT CLEANER, you can buy this product at any auto parts store. I did it and it works, it resolved my CHIME crying all the time. More Answer Thoughts
I have this problem every 6 months or so...here is another tip: On the rear door....open it, but lift it only about 1 foot or so. I say this, because that is the angle that the lube seems to need to hit the switch just right....then use the WD 40 or similar penetrating lube and spray the heck out of the latches.....get the red tube into the tiny crevices and gaps around the latches on all doors and into the hidden switches that are connected to them. Do this on each side of the rear liftgate door as well as front and sliding door.
I think I now know how to solve this problem. The rear door or 'back lift gate' as it has been called, has two latching mechanisms, one on each side of the door. These are positioned from the inside of the door itself. At the very bottom of this latch is a small spring loaded micro switch that senses if the latch is open or closed. The switch gets dirty and then won't allow the pin to travel to the fully protruding position which should indicate the door is closed.
I found this out by going to a vehicle junk yard and removing the latches from the back door of a scrap vehicle. I was able to disassemble the switches but the latches were on my work bench when I did it. I'm not sure how hard it will be to remove the switch while the latch is in place because I haven't actually replaced the non-working ones in my van yet. You need a screwdriver to pry up a tab which keeps the switch from rotating 90 degrees. Once the switch is rotated, it drops out of the latch.
clean the little square plates at the top of the rear hatch with rubbing alcohol
my 98 has small black plastic box sensors on side and rear door that senses when door is open they are about 1 inch square i sprayed these lightly with wd 40 and moved them to and fro with my fingers to free em up no more unlocking or dinging or lights
The sensors for the rear hatch on the 2003 Windstar are on the latching mechanisms inside the hatch. I sprayed mine with WD-40 today and it worked like a charm. I accessed them by removing the plastic panel from inside the hatch.
In hind-sight, I think that spraying the mechanism from the exterior would have been adequate.AnswerThis always happens to our Windstar when it rains a lot...
So, I took a blow-dryer (hairdryer) and pointed it in the latch holes of the rear hatch door (right inside the door) and just in case, at the lower spring latch.
After a few minutes, the light went out--without shutting the latch!
It went back on briefly when I shut it-- then went off and stayed off.
Don't know if this is a permanent fix--but it did work.Answer- Sliding Sidedoors ContactsClean the contacts of on the slider door:
This is just a temporary fix, and needs to be done about every 4 weeks.
When moving the sensor plate on the door jam it may be necessary to take a jig saw and cut the square hole a little wider in order for the plate to fit back on the door jam properly. Use sheet metal screws to reattach the sensor plate.AnswerThere is a problem with corrosion in the wires that run to the fuse box take it to a ford dealer it will be fixed within an hour. I had the same problem. AnswerI had the same problem on my 95 Windstar. I found that one of the switches in the rear hatch had stuck in the "open" position. I cleaned and worked for a month then failed again. I finally bypassed (jumpered them both). They are located inside the hatch close to the latches so you must remove the inner panel to access. Hope this helps. Redsand Answer- How to RemoveIt is located inside the door.
You have to remove the door panel to gain access to the door latch assembly and it is located on the lower side of the latch. You'll find two connectors one for the lock actuator and one lower for the door ajar switch.
Loosen the latch and twist the door latch out and you'll here it pop and come out.
reverse process to installAnswerI have a 96 Windstar with the same problem. Every night I had to disconnect my battery cable. A real pain in the butt! Along with the light not going off I also had that annoying bonging sound while I was driving! I sprayed WD 40 in all the door wells and after a minute everything quit! It seems to be a cold weather thing because that was when it started. But the panacea seems to be the WD40. AnswerI had this same problem in years past, I spoke with a Ford mechanic and he suggested rather than put it in the shop and pay to replace sensors etc. just spray the door sensors with WD40 and the problem will go away. I tried it and it worked immediately, and hasn't come back to haunt me.
I've had this same problem with my 2003 Winstar. The problem is the contacts on the sliding doors. The dealer cleaned the contacts and the problem was resolved for about a month. You have to keep cleaning these contacts regularly or what I did was turn off the dome lights. This problem can kill your battery so I always keep the dome lights off.
Had same problem i checked all doors and the sliding door was the cause fix it by crossing the black wires of the sensor no more chiming or light on
Usually this is a sticking or faulty door switch on the tailgate. It affects multiple years of the Windstar. Typically the only solution is to replace the switch. There is one switch attached to each side of the tailgate door.
Has nothing to do with the intensity of the LED, and all to do with the voltage/amperage of thediode, and the voltage of the system it is supposed to be used with.
Inside the front of the left front fender, behind the splash guard inside the wheel well. Reach from under the car to feel the horn. Removing the left front tire and splash guard will make it a lot easier to get to the horn.
The third brake light is a flourescent light element (there is actually no bulb) that is one part of a two piece system. The second part is a ballast. The "light" is one inclusive trim package. The "ballast" can be purchased individually. Although there is no way to test which piece has gone bad, in most cases the ballast is the culprit. The ballast is the least expensive at around $100 from you local Ford dealer Open the lift gate and remove the trim panel by pulling the trim tabs (there is a tool available at your local parts store) to access the assemblies. Remove the bolts and disconnect the wires. Remove the nuts that hold the light and disconnect the wires.
It gets about 21 mpg on the highway
Resistors resist amounts of the electricity flowing through the circuit.For example if the resister has these strips of colors on it in this order(red,green,blue) then the resister has 25,000,000 ohms. That means that the lamp(s)/ bulb(s) is(are) going to be very going to be very dim. Because, the more ohms the dimmer the light, the less ohms the brighter the light.
But we should get back on task. A resistor effects a circuit because it makes the lamp(s)/ bulb(s) brighter of dimmer depending on the amount of ohms they have.
The computer generates this error message during the startup when it is affected by spyware. To solve the problem download and install a spyware removal tool to remove the spywares. Before running the spyware tool, stop all the background applications by running Msconfig. You can follow the steps given below to run MSconfig. To run MSConfig, perform the following steps: 1. Click Start and select Run. 2. Type MSConfig and press Enter. 3. Click the Startup tab. 4. From the list, deselect all the programs except the following programs: systray scanregistry 5. Click OK. 6. Restart the system. NOTE: To restore any of the removed items, repeat the above- mentioned steps and select the checkboxes for the designated applications. Now, download and install Ad-aware 6.0 to eliminate spywares installed in your Presario to fix this issue. You may download Ad-Aware 6.0 from the following URL: http://download.com.com/3000-2094-10045910.html?legacy=cnet OR http://tinyurl.com/1wy9 Now update the definitions: 1. Start Ad-Aware. 2. Click "Check for Updates", "Connect" and download the latest pattern file if available. and click Finish 3. Click "Start" "Next" 4. After the scan is finished, click "Next" 5. Select all the items (checkboxes) Right click on any object in the "Scan result" list and choose [Select all objects] 6. Click Next and click OK to confirm removal. Then, download CWShredder from the following site: http://www.spywareinfo.com/~merijn/files/CWShredder.exe CWShredder removes all the CoolWebSearch spyware variants. Alternate spyware removal tool: ------------------------------- You can download and install third-party software to protect your computer from spyware. Intermute is offering a special rebate on SpySubtract for HP owners. For more information, visit the following HP Web site: http://www.hp.com/united-states/cpc/hp/security.html On the above HP Web site, click Safely Remove Spyware under "Other PC Security promotions" to visit the Intermute Web site and download SpySubtract. *This information was given to me by HP tech support. It 's a trjan : TROJ_SMALL.XC See below to fix the trouble trendmicro.com This is caused by Explorer causing error 7082808388 TMP. Normally, unless Explorer causes this error, you will not see that error message.
Yes, all wheels run on wheel bearings.
The noise could be a worn or damaged bearing, rust on the brake drum or disk, sticking parking brake, or under-inflated tires. Many garages will do a free brake inspection and they should show you and explain the problem they find if any.
Axles have ball bearings pressed on them and grease would be leaking from them if bad. Shocks can be noisy if you have unusual tire wear, cupping. Loose U-joint can be checked if you have the knick knick sound. Of course a dry axle housing causes a lot of noise and broke teeth can stop you from moving. If you suspect it pull inspection cover and see if there is a lot of loose metal pieces in the grease. It isn't unusual to break a gear tooth in the axle. Especially if you heavy trailer a lot.
Probably, but it may be dirty and unable to "see" the daylight and turn off. Here is more input and advice: * If your daylight/nightlight sensor has a setting level you can increase or decrease the sensors level which will cause it to go off in a more appropriate manner you need to adjust these sensors and try them out you see what works for you. If you don't have this feature then I suggest that you buy the type which does you'll find it much more accommodating. * Insects or spiders can get into the sensor and cause this problem. Undo the connection and spray insect spray along the wiring conduit. * Advice from an electrician: First off never spray any electrical device with something like insect spray , it will cause failure. Electricians know what sprays are suitable for cleaning casings and electrical contacts and they never use anything else. Neither should you. It is simply too dangerous! The most common causes are bad connections or bad devices. So simply check connections: if connections are good and tight, it's a bad photo cell.
PS: Make sure power is off.
On quite a few DTR systems, the lights *will* shut off, but only between 30 sec to a couple minutes after the ignition's been turned off.
I rewmoved a stuck plug on a dodge van 318 fuelinjected motor by using a socket that was 1 mm to small for the plug (21mm) and a can of air for dusting off computers. I turned the can sideways and frosted the plug then pounded the socket on and used a breaker bar ever so gently about three times and presto it tuned, hard at first then I pulled of the small soket and used the regular one no problem.
I have never heard of that, quite frankly. If the threads toward the piston are damaged, they wouldn't have gone in to begin with. (It sounds like the plug is coming out part way and then meeting resistance of bad threads or something.) Did a timing belt get off and let a piston smash a plug? The plug hole can be rethreaded if it's not too bad depending on the head material. I think I'd call my buddy at the head rebuilding shop.
My father, a heavy duty mechanic, says: "clear the area, use a propane torch to heat the head around the plug, try to take it out while the plug is cooler than the head". I'd suggest keeping a fire extinguisher on hand, though. My father is a little crazier than I am :)
I continually soak it in a high quality penetrating fluid. And turn it out a little and back in a little, back out a little and back in a little. Eventually, with a little skill you might get it without breaking. You may end up pulling the threads out of the head, but you can insert a heli-coil and get your new plug back in. May end up pulling the head if it doesn't go so well.
I recommend you go out and buy some Break Away and let it soak for about 15 to 20 min. Then work it back and forth until it comes loose.
Be sure you don't try the propane torch suggestion if you've already used a penetrating oil (or spray) of any sort-- you'd *definitely* need that fire extinguisher! It would be safer to apply something cold directly to the plug if you wish to take advantage of the same principle of differential thermal expansion/contraction, but I can't vouch for this technique as I've never used it. (The metal presumably conducts heat (and cold) better than the ceramic plug, so this reverse technique is doubtful.) Personally, I vote for the repeated applications of penetrating oil (let it soak) combined with *patient* back-and-forth screwing and unscrewing as recommended above. (And in the future use an antiseize compound on the threads of the new plugs and change them more frequently!--They're cheap!)
In regards to using "anti-seize" compound, it's NOT a good idea to use this. It will reduce the friction your plug needs to torque the plug correctly (9 ft lbs. usually, check manuals). If you are unfamilliar with anti-seize compound or toque wrench usage, it is best to dry install. Hand tighten, then tighten a quarter turn after that. (aluminum heads only) As far as removing the spark plug, it's best to take it to a automotive shop. To do it yourself (depending if the spark plug is still whole or just the outer threads remaining in the head), PB Blaster is good to help "loosen" the grip of the reminant plug. You will need extractors and an extractor T-handle. Best bet though is to take it to a shop, as they are responsible for any further damages resulting from extraction. Shops are pretty darn good at this practice. Well worth the money and hardship. Appox. price range is 50-150 dollars.
First--I agree with the spray it and then rock it back and forth crowd. I'll go both ways on the anti-seize: You CAN get away without it (just don't overtighten or go too long between changes). BUT, you can also use it; just don't use too much. It does make it easier next time.
Second--JUST TO MAKE SURE--no one has mentioned/asked are you using a spark plug puller? There are specialty tools for this; they come stock w most ratchet sets. They have the rubber boot inserted to help not damage the plug and to cushion the application of force. USE ONE OF THOSE. Now for the upsell--they also have specialty tools (cheap) for getting the plug out that are like a wrench w a knuckle so you can twist better without having just a straight shot only. Specialty tools are not always necessary--but they are always helpful. You local stores have these--just ask. Take a slow walk through the tool aisle.
Heat could be the answer but I don�t recommend the blow torch idea. Try running the engine up to normal operating temperature then unscrew the plug 1 /4 turn. Re-tighten it a bit less than 1 /4 turn and then unscrew it a bit more. Repeat this until the plug is free. If the plug is simply too tight or snaps there used to be a "helicoil" kit available. Admittedly it's been a few years since I quit the trade and I don't know if they are still produced. But using these kits involved removing the head, drilling out the stuck plug, tapping a new oversize thread and inserting a "helicoil".
Some times being at a bad angle can make a big difference. If your at a bad angle with a standard ratchet try a flex head ratchet with a long handle (can also help in cramped areas) and/or possibly a long t-handle. Like everyone says above let it soak with penetrating oil like Liquid Wrench. I got mine to break loose this way. I was afraid to put too much force on it, but if you don't try hard enough you prolly won't get it/them loose. I also suggest using anti-sieze when reinstalling.
welding current decides the electrode burn off rate, depth of fustion, geometry of weldments. welding voltage decides shape of fusion zone and weld reinforcement.
For owners manuals and such, consult the manufacturing company. For around $20.00 US I believe that you can purchase a manual for your vehicle and it can be sent directly to your home. Also, you might want to try looking at online auctions, quite often they sell small articles such as manuals/wiring diagrams etc.
You could also try (if in canada) Canadian Tire or any sort of automotive store similar to that. I got my owner's there.AnswerGo to www.ahm-ownerlink.com, register, and do a search for "owner manual". You can download a manual in PDF format.
I own a 2001 Honda Accord V-6 so if there is a simple question I would try to help.
The resistor in the snubbing circuit is there to minimize the reverse EMF spike that occurs when a DC inductive load, such as a relay coil or other electromagnet is released. Opening the snubbing circuit will expose the driving circuit to high voltage transients that can damage it.
There is a complete walk through with pictures on how to change the front bearings on a 2003 Ford Explorer on my site: http://conceptxchange.wordpress.com/2011/06/23/changing-the-front-hub-assembly-on-a-2003-ford-explorer/
ABS: Antilock Brake System (or Anti-locking Brake System) - enables you to steer whilst keeping the brake pedal full on. Can be felt as a vibration through the pedal when it cuts in. Also useful in stopping in a straight line if one side is on slippery stuff and the other on grippy stuff (non-ABS will tend to spin). EBD: Electronic Brake Distribution (or Electronic Brake-force Distributor) - alters how much of the brake force goes to the front and how much to the rear. Cars always have more braking on front as if the rears lock before the front then the car will spin. How much braking you can do with the rears depends on how much weight is in the vehicle so EBD dynamically adjusts this balance. Without it, the manufacturer sets up the balance so the rears don't lock when the vehicle is empty which is less braking than is possible when the vehicle is full. EPS: Electronic Power Steering - enables the amount of assistance with steering to be varied depending on speed and how much you turn the wheel. This means it can give lots of boost when parking the car whilst still giving you a good feel for the road at speed. As this was asked along with ABS and EBD, I think it might actually be ESP which is asked about. ESP: Electronic Stability Program - senses when the car is about to go out of control and can apply an individual brake to a wheel to help avoid the spin. Will not totally prevent the spin but means that it takes more to lose control. Often also used to give traction control where brakes may be applied if a wheel begins to spin due to too much power for the grip. N.B. many cars have TCS (Traction Control System) without having ESP.
If I remember correctly , it's in the right front passenger footwell , under the front
edge of the carpet , mounted on the toe board just to the right of the transmission
The engine is blown: bebuild or replace.
Anyone offering to "repair" your crankshaft is a scammer. Do not ever deal with them again. The only situation where a crankshaft can be repaired (in situ especially) is if there is a timing sensor on the end of the crank that has become dislodged, damaged, misaligned or otherwise prevents the engine computer from being able to pick up appropriate information. Bearings should not be replaced unless rebuilding the entire engine and a twisted or otherwise damaged crankshaft is JUNK and should be replaced. Therefore, repairing the crank is actually replacing it which REQUIRES an engine rebuild. The journal bearings on the crank need to be properly matched and possibly machined (the crank) to fit correctly without knocking and leading to a speedy demise of your newly built powerplant. Buy a new crankshaft, a rebuild kit and a video.You can rebuild an engine with the right tools (most of which you can borrow or rent) and some friends to help get the engine in and out. This is the most difficult part and with a little attention and patience, (and the friends) it can be done in a weekend not including any machining (which is generally not necessary when REPLACING the parts that are damaged.) Just replacing the engine is a job anyone can do with a hoist and ratchets, screwdrivers and friends.
Additionally, if you had an early vintage, extremely rare dusenberg or flathead V8 that was IRREPLACEABLE you might consider having a talented machine shop try to fix it, but on a '90s Nissan it simply is not worth it.
My 1995 Ford Explorer XLT , with the 4.0 L - OHV engine , automatic transmission
and 4 x4 had a shipping weight of ( 4,053 pounds )
No, it won't. Bar's Leaks Rear Main Seal Repair uses compounds which interact with the rubbers and plastics used in the majority of engine oil seals and some gaskets. These are mostly seals around rotating components or shafts, such as o-rings and circular seals. The product coats and swells the rubber in these seals, to get them to seal again after they have been worn down and deformed.
The majority of flat surface gaskets are fiber, and all head gaskets are metal or composition (and even these seal around the cylinders where your leak usually is with metal). Rear Main Seal Repair will have no effect on this material. If the head gasket is leaking coolant, then Bar's Leaks for radiators may solve the problem if it is a minor leak, and is not affected by cylinder compression.
Water or air in your fuel line.Answer
spark plug wires usually or plugs but id say was the wires apso when it rains they act up also jim
check your fuel filter, if its your fuel pump you'll know soon enough.
i just changed my a couple months ago i believe its a 36mm socket.
I am having problems with my break lights and want to know what the layout of the fuse box is for a 1986 ford F150.
If you are asking this question in relation to a networked laser printer this seems to be an issue with either a corrupt driver or a network error.
I have sorted mine out by simply downloading the updated driver from the printer manufacturer's website.
the window handle is held on with a c shaped ring that is placed on the handle then pushed onto a splined rod with a recess in it to hold it on there is a tool for this but usually it can be pushed off the handle with a screw driver placed between the door panel and the handle the hard part is seeing it to push on one or both ends of the "c" ring to reinstall you simply put it on first then push it in as for the window falling off you won't know what caused it till you get a look at it
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