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No, of course not. There is no capsule or tablet that you can put in your gas tank that will improve your mileage. These things are just a scam and may harm your vehicle. Be sensible and don't waste your money.

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This information can be found in the owner's manual. There is a problem in the emmissions system.

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What's Tune up? Tuna? I like tuna....

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Divertless Supersonic Intakes (DSI) is an air intake that was designed for supersonic flight regime, so the plane doesn´t need to have any variable-geometry airintake, that´s why it is called DSI. In supersoniv flight regime, it is hard for an airplane to turn, especially kulbit. In order to gain airflow to the engine, most fighters uses variable-geometry air intakes, or moving air intakes that we could found in F-22, or Su-27, or MiG-29, or any other fighters. Fighter such like F-35 doesn´t need any moving parts because it uses DSI. DSI automatically gain airflow to the engine in supersonic flight regime. I hope it helps, have a nice day!

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Removing the headliner board from a 96 Nissan Sentra is not too complicated - 1st you remove the visors, hangers and anything else that attaches through the headliner and then you remove the headliner plastic trim. The board should fall free so it can be removed from the car through the front passenger door.

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In the vicinity of 22,000 - 25,000 lbs.

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Remove the air filter housing. Now look to the left and right beside the valve cover you will see a FLAT squire black electronic device that will have at least 6 wires pluged into it. That will be it.

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Remove the oil pan and clean thoroughly then bring the pan to a muffler shop or body shop and have them weld the crack...the threaded hole for drain plug may need to be chased with a tap after welding. Then again you could track down a used pan pretty cheap.

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sounds like a poor ground.

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You need a press, my advice is to go to NTB or sears and pay the 65 bucks to have this done right and fast takes no longer than an hour

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The first thing that comes to mind is its overfull of oil..but since there is no real way to check the level, it should stop leaking. yes...stop leaking on its own. if you have been driving the truck in and out of mud holes, this will cause it to leak also... the differential is hot before it hits the water, then when it hits the water the sudden change in temp will cause a vacuum at the axle seals, in turn will suck water through the axle seals and Finally PUSH WATER AND OIL OUT THE VENT ON THE TOP....

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They are in the exhaust system/pipe. Just start at the engine and follow the exhaust back to the muffler and you will see them. They are about 3 inches long with a electric wire hooked to them. They just screew out. I believe ther is 3 of them but there might be 4. just look at the exhaust pipe real good.

On the 8.1 engine, two are located ahead of the catalytic converters in the exhaust headers and two in the tail pipes after the catalytic converters.

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5 qts. with a new filter. Have seen some hold 6 qts. Just start with 5 and go from there.

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02 and above wranglers

02 and above cherokees

99 and below suburbans

85 and up Chevy Astros

90's Monte carlos

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It depends on the dimensions of the truck and the volume occupied by its storage space.

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k's are 4x4 c's are 2wd

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In a car with manual gearbox, the brake pedal is usually in the middle. In my first car, the accelerator was in the middle, which caused a few 'interesting' moments!
In American cars with automatic transmission, the brake is on the left and the accelerator on the right. On a standard transmission (stick-shift), the brake is in the middle, with the clutch on the left and accelerator on the right.

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Alright first things first. Jack up the vehicle and take off tire. Go ahead and place tire under car in case jack slips. On the front brakes the bleeder is located behind the rotor toward the front of the car. In this case the 99 sunfire's bleeder is I believe a 10 mm and is hex (meaning six sided). Go ahead and get a friend or what not into the drivers seat. You will loosen the bleeder and tell them to press the brake all the way to the floor. You should see a strong burst of brake fluid. but if its bubbly one of two things are wrong. Either A you just have air in the line (bleedable) or B you have a whole in one of your brake lines.

Once the fluid has stopped coming out in a stream, you tighten the bleeder and tell your friend to let up. Repeat process till air is out or brake is tight enough.

----Da Python

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Seward, Alaska

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If it's similar to the 1994, it's pretty easy. The heater core sits on the passenger side inside the cab, and there will be two hoses running through the firewall. It should just be a simple matter of disconnecting the heater hoses, and removing whatever mounting bracket is holding it in place (screws or bolts). I replaced mine with a borrowed tool kit in about 10-15 minutes in a Suburban Lodge parking lot in Charlotte, NC back in 2000. I've always wanted to tell someone that story. Seriously, it won't be that difficult, just have a bucket to catch the little bit of antifreeze from the hoses.

It's one of the easiest cores to replace that I have encountered. Disconnect heater hoses at firewall. Probably doesn't matter about hose placement, but I always mark them just in case. To remove the fiber cover under dash, take a flatblade screwdriver and prise out the center pin of the expansion clips that hold it in place. There are four 5/16 head screws that hold the bottom/drain tray cover. Core will pull through the firewall and then down. You may have to silicone/glue or replace the foam seal strips on the new core. Before you install the core, check the distance between the inlet and outlet tubes to ensure they match the openings in the firewall. This saves time. It helps if you have someone on the outside to guide you when stabbing the tubes through the firewall. Replace bottom cover. You may have to hold one of the tubes when reinstalling the first hose to the core. Replace any lost coolant and check for leaks prior to reinstalling the fiber cover. If the cover seal is in good condition, any leak should drain through the firewall, otherwise it may leak inside cab. These days with parts from Mexico and others, it is not uncommon to get a new defective part.

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you can't. simple as that. but if i'm taking you up right and you are genuinely having problems with the immobiliser then i'd reccommend you use a second and last higher digit to sort the problem out for good. just say your code is 3545 don't enter it, but instead enter 3646 and you should here a click from the drivers side engine. thats it. it worked for me and i never had a problem since. by the way if you don't know the original keycode then you won't be able to up the second and last digit accordingly so will not work. hope this helps.