Use a dental pick or similar tool and carefully pry off center cap to reveal Allen screw.

They are fancy chrome bars that mount under the doors so you can step up on them to get in the truck.

It's very easy and any DYI guy can do it. All you need to do is jack up the car, remove the rear wheel, remove the caliper and brake pads, and remove the brake pad bracket. The bracket is held onto the vehicle by two bolts with a torx (star) shaped head. Now you can pull off the rotor and begin your assembly with your new parts. * Word of caution, you may need to hit your old rotor with a hammer to free it as rust may be holding it tightly to your car. If this is the case just work your hammer around the rotor and take your time - it'll pop off. When placing your new rotor onto your car I'd recommend a dap of antiseize for ease of future brake jobs.

It is important to replace a brake line at the first sign of leaking. A brake line is a fairly simple repair, first you must remove the old line using two wrenches on the hex bolts. Then you screw the new brake line in place using the wrenches and replace fluid.

You need the din removal tool to pull out the climate control box. (I bought a set on eBay for 4 dollars. Dont pay the $15 plus that websites try to sell it for) Under the box it a small round plastic insert that hold the backlight. This removes easily with a pair of needle nose pliers. Dont turn too hard, it should come out easily. I had to purchase the bulb from Mercedes. Neither Autozone or CarQuest carried it.

1st make sure that rear service brakes are adjusted properly Should be an adjustment at either the junction of the three cables under vehicle or at the handle itself (may have to remove plastic trim for access)

It is very easy, first you need to remove the plastic dash cover around the instrument panel. You need to remove two screws located up in the instrument panel. Remove 4 screws and remove the instrument panel, disconet 3 electric plugs behind the instrument panel. After this you will have the instrument panel in your hand and you can check one by one each bulb. It have 2 differents bulbs.

S-10, 1995-2004 4WD Hub Bearings. Remove axel center cap Loosen axel nut with breaker bar (and pipe if needed) Raise truck and support remove lugs and tire Remove brake caliper slide bolts 15 mm Remove caliper mounting bolts 18mm Remove rotor Remove 3 hub mounting bolts from behind spindle (use a small jack on lower control arm to gain clearance to top bolt) Use a puller to separate old hub assembly from steering knuckle leave or remove brake sheild clean/spray spindle and wipe clean all areas use anti-seize on the 18mm hub bolts(because you'll be doing this job again in a year or 2) lower truck and start saving for the next set of bearings.. longovette@windstream.net

First, you'd need to find a live axle for the front, and ensure the gear ratios in both differentials matched up. You'd have to do a complete front axle swap, and might also need to add a leaf spring or two to the front, as 2WD vehicles typically sit much lower than 4WD vehicles. If you have to raise it high enough, new struts and a new Pitman arm will also be in order.

The transmission will likely have to be replaced, or you'll have to replace the casing in order to have a mounting surface for the transfer case. Then you'll need to replace your driveshaft, as the one in a 2wd truck will be longer than what you need for a 4WD drive truck with a transfer case attached to the back of the transmission. You'll also need a crossmember for the transfer case to sit on, plus a driveshaft for the front axle.

You can't it is nonadjustable, The timing is controled by the computer. And there is no reason to adjust it unless you had the distributor out of the engine and in that case you will need to turn it by hand enough to get it running, and that is called the base timing. Then you will notice that the check engine light is on and you will need an OBD2 engine scanner hooked up to the truck and then go into the timing mode and ajust the timing to factory spec. and the scanner will let you know when you have the timing correct. The check engine light will go off when you have the timing right. Then the computer will do the rest.

I believe it's located on the driver's side inner front fender and battery may have to be removed to give adequate room to access

a tiny pick or a shotgun. I prefer the shotgun though.

This greatly depends on make and model... but most vehicles have two hinges on the inside of the door... usually four bolts your have to take off with an extension and a ratchet. if you have power accesories you need to feed those wires back through the door wire boot... and also there is usually a stop pin that you have to remove in the middle of the 2 hinges which keep your door from opening too far...

I'm not a car expert but I have a 1999 Chevy Malibu and it has 70,000 miles on it. It is in great shape and never had any major problems. I expect it to last through at least 150,000 miles. I think it really just depends on the car and the way it's taken care of.

4.3 liters = 262.4021 cubic inches

around 5.3 liters for a 325 cubic inch engine

5.36 liters.

1 liter = 61.0237441 cubic inches so multiply your liters by 61.0237441. Lets say you have 5 liters so:

5 x 61.0237441 = 305.1187205 or rounded 305 cubic inches

It is called a 5.0 or 302 but in reality it is a 4.942 Liter engine which is 301.579343 cubic inches. Ford did not call it a 4.9L because they already had a 4.9 liter in the 300 cubic inch inline 6 cylinder and wanted to avoid confusion so they rounded up an called it a 302.

It is mounted on the backside of the fuse panel. below and to the left the steering wheel . You must remove the trim piece on the bottom of the dash to get at it .

6.2 liters

about 379 Cubic Inches

I've rebuilt many 1992 through 1995 350 engines in Z71 and siliverados

and have yet to see a 4 bolt main. I've only seen them in the 3/4 tons and heaver.

it is a float in the gas tank that tells the fuel gauge where to be