1973 350 Corvette. 76cc chambers. 2.02`` intake valves 1.6`` exhaust valves.
your transmission may need to be replaced or fixed. WHAT A BONEHEAD ANSWER come on people we need more info to make a hypothisis of what you want to know.is it an automatic?is it a standard?maybe it just needs fluid this is why im not answering many questions.GIVE US INFO!!!!!!!!
Valves are not tourqued. There are no bolts on them at all. they are held in by keepersAnswerI believe what you are asking is "how do you torque the rocker arms" on a SB Chevy. As long as it is mostly stock, and not using solid lifters, the following is the proper method for setting the torque.
Start the engine and let it warm for at least 15 minutes, then shut down the engine.
Remove the valve cover on one side (does not matter which) and restart the engine.
One valve at a time, loosen the nut holding the rocker arm down until it starts to "tick", then retighten the rocker arm slowly until the ticking stops. At this point then turn your wrench slowly 1/2 to 3/4 turn more, and your done. Move to the next rocker arm and repeat the prosses until all 4 cylinders (8 rocker arms) have been properly torqued.
When you have torqued all the rocker arms on the one side of the engine, stop the engine, clean up the oil that will have spurted all over and made a mess, replace the valve cover complete with a new gasket, and then move the other side of the engine repeating the prosses for all the rocker arms on that side.
It sounds simple, and in fact it really is. Just remember to go slowly when you are tightening the nut holding the rocker arms in place, and to check the oil when you are done. It's messy so you may want to let the engine cool after you are done and clean it up with soap and water.
I would just like to add that there are valve clips that you can buy that fit on the top side of the valve, so that a minimal amount of oil will be lost. I like this method of adjusting.
Your car is out of, or low on power steering fluid. (make sure you buy the proper steering fluid for your car, ex: Honda's only safely take Honda steering fluid)
Check the following Once you have checked the fluid level and the problem persists, rev the engine slightly to see if the steering improves. If it does, it means the flow rate of your pump is low and needs attention/replacement. If it doesn't improve, have your pump tested by a power steering repair shop. There is a slight possibility of there being a problem in your rack if the shaft teflon is damaged or the teflon rings in the spool valve have worn grooves into the housing. www.powerbrakeandsteering.co.za
18436572-#1 is the front plug on the drivers side--bring the #1 piston to TDC on the compression stroke & put #1 plug wire on that position on the distributor cap & continue with the firing order. 18436572 usually the no 1 post on the distributer points towards the no#1 cylinder the cylinders are numbered like this front to back on the drivers side 1 3 5 7 and fron to back on the passenger side 2 4 6 8 that is if you are standing in font of the vehichle facing it do this in a clock wise direction around the distributor.
unfortunately yes you do. j to the izzo
I suspect you have some loose or worn belts. Check the wear and tension, adjust and/or replace them. Probably the power steering belt. John In MontanaAnswermost likely that first answer is correct. In the morning, your alternator needs more energy to charge the battery up from sitting over night. So it takes more power to turn the alternator, putting more stress on the belt, causing a loose or worn one to squeal until the battery is near or at full charge. just try getting the drive belts tightened, if that doesnt work, get new ones on.
youll need to take the door panel off, then unscrew the handle assembly and replace with a new handle ( junkyard?). screw that in then replace door panel.
Hardly. the diode is a device that takes Alternating Current that is changing direction many times a second, and stops it from reversing on itself, thus changing the AC to Direct Current. If your diode is blown, you have either AC in your electrical system, or No Current. Both of these could be considered a big deal in the working life of an alternator. If you diode is fried, it;s time for a trip to the junk yard which, if you're a real man, is the only reason for owning a car in the first place! Phil
ANS 2 - A bad diode pack is the most common causeof an alternator not charging your battery. Diode packs are NOT expensive for most common cars, and certainly not a part I'd EVER pick up in a junk yard !
Nothing wrong with used parts, your driving on them.
(ANS 2) - I agree to some extent, I use many used parts too - if I can see their condition ! - BUT to use an old electrical part when there is a cheap new part seems to be asking for trouble !
Many people out there don't have the auto electrical expertise that you and I have.
The answer to you question is yes, I just read this in the owners manual for a 1995 maxima yesterday 9 /28/05 as i was repairing the anti theft system hope this helps
three bolts two wires its right next to your fly whell Positive battery cable goes to starter. Theres other wires, take note where they are attatched. Reinstall the way it was uninstalled.
To take the plastic inner panel off of the door perform the following: 1. Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the two screws on top of the armrest where your fingers are placed to pull the door closed. The armrest is then able to slide to the rear and be lifted off. 2. Look at the window crank where it covers the window crank shaft. You will see a plastic ring. Push this trim ring away from the window crank and insert a crank removal tool in the small space between the crank and the plastic ring(this is a stamped steel device available at auto parts houses). Place the tool behind the window crank, and inline with the crank and push the tool straight in, all of the way (about 3/8"), and pop the retainer clip off of the shaft. The window crank can then be removed. NOTE: If the crank doesn't come off, move to the exact opposite side of the crank and repeat this exercise. Watch the clip! This is a small "C" shaped clip, and When it comes off, it can fly away and get lost! Voice of experience! 3. Take a thin flat bladed screwdriver and remove the plastic surround from the around the inside door handle. There are three clips on the top, bottom, and front. Put the screwdriver between the main plastic piece containing the handle and the surround. Release these three clips and the surround can be lifted off. 4. Take an auto body clip tool (I use a Snap-on No. A181, it looks like an oversized two-tined fork) and use it to pry between the plastic door panel and the metal door. Release the 9 plastic clips spaced around the panel. 5. Use the same tool to remove the triangular trim piece at the front corner of the window. Only one of the plastic clips holds this piece on. 6. The inner door panel is now ready for removal. Grip it in both hands and lift up. It hooks over the inner steel door frame, and will lift straight off. 7. To take the door down further, there are a number of 9/32" head sheet metal screws which hold the inner cover to the inner door. Remove these, along with one 10 mm bolt on the front edge of the panel, and you should now be able to access any of the rods/motors, etc inside the door. .
-1999 4.8l has 255 HP
2000- 4.8l has 275 HP
It is 1-6-5-4-3-2.
For step by step instructions with PICS, buy the $13.00 repair book for Chebby trucks at the nearest auto parts store when you go to buy the switch.
Assuming you had it from new, did you ever get the transmission fluid changed in 150K? 150K on an original transmission from a domestic auto is probably about all you can expect to get, because they use notoriously pathetic transmissions and having Cadillac trannies shred apart at 30k is not an unusual story. Be prepared to spend because I doubt you could take it to a local transmission shop and have it come away needing nothing more than a 5-dollar spring.
Unless your driving a race truck don't bother changing your chain or gears they usually last the life of the motor. Its easiest and professional to pull the motor out so that a proper cleaning job can be done as well so that pieces of rust debris don't fall into the new pan when your installing it. You wouldn't want them floating around in your bottom end. If you have 4x4 your stuck pulling the motor out.
I already worked on 5 silverado's 4wd. when I had to take Oil Pan out, you don't need to pull motor out or taking front differential. Too much work. Simple way I do trick ways nobody believe me which I done it. Un bolt Motor Mounts Bolts then get cherry picker rise the engine up lilttle bit then take oil pan slide toward back it will come out. Easy and Simple.
I believe you... I have a 92 1500 with the 350 and just took the oil pan out. All I did was take the through bolts out of the engine mounts and used a floor jack, a short 2x4 and the crank pulley. Jacked it up till the fan hit the shroud. I then put the bolts back in the mounts on the motor and put the mounts back on the mounts bolted to the chassis (which it jacked the motor up about 2 or 3 inches). After that I just took the pan bolts out and it slipped right out to the rear. So it does work. I'm not totally sure on the 95 though.
As long as the engine is the same size, manual or auto transmissions should bolt up properly. If the vehicle has different engine options, make sure they are the same engines or else they will not bolt up.
That's the simple and basic answer... Going from one to the other isn't simple plug and play. Manual transmissions are simple, require gear oil, no cooling for the oil, no independent ecu, and usually different length of a drive shaft or CV axles (rear or front wheel drive). An automatic require automatic tranny oil specific to the make's requirements, hooks up to the radiator to cool the oil, and an independent ecu. Wiring is also different along the engine's wiring harness. Also, The alternator's wiring harness maybe affected. Relays maybe required aswell.
Can a manual and auto tranny be changed/switched? Yes
Is it practical? Absolutely not! There is alot to it that just a bolt on. Auto to Manual is easier, but you will need hydrolic lines for the clutch.
take it to the dealer
this is a very general question and could be a number of things, if both your engine and transmission behave poorly together the first place to look would be your air filter, see if it is clogged or old and possibly replace it with a performance type like a K&N brand filter. If you have problems accelerating quickly, if there is a sudden pause or stumble in power when you floor it, check the mass airflow sensor if your car has one, it is a small tube sensor the air flows through between the filter and intake, and see if it's small wires are dirty, they can be cleaned carefully with alcohol. This makes a huge difference on 94-96 LT1 engines. If that does not improve things try changing the fuel filter, sometimes they need to be replaced much more often than the suggested 30,000 miles. And finally sometimes the Chevy v8 although big and reliable is not always that strong, and you may be stuck with a weak stock engine.
There should be only two wire connections on the stop light switch. You need to put a constant 12v supply to one side of the switch and the light wire itself to the other side. The switch then needs to be adjusted so that the brake pedal holds the switch in to keep the lights off. When the pedal is depressed the lights will go on. If they stay on all the time, re-adjust the brake switch.
-30 degree C --APEX:)
make copies from the book but make sure you use the right year.
Haynes or Chilton Manuals
These manuals have gone up in price
to about $25 from the big parts stores. You can find them much cheaper
online at http://discountautorepairmanuals.com/
I just purchased one for the '95 XE King Cab I just bought. It cost me
14.95 + $4.50 shipping. Save yourself a few bucks.
when you turn on the key and get no dash lights example check engine or seatbelts. vehicle will still turn over but not fire up. but the dash lights are the key if they come on when you turn the switch and you hear the fuel pump pressure up then the switch is fine. would need to know more of the problem to be sure but this is a good start.
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